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Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 08:49:41 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@webspan.net>
Subject: D90 Woes.....

I have been to the dealer with this problem, to no avail...So as I should 
have done I'll ask you....

Under excelleration I have a "pinging", "knocking" sound.  Almost like I 
was using the wrong octane (I've only used 92+ in it) and you get that 
tapping sound from the manifolds...(valve assembly).  It sound like and 
old Buick....instead of and old Buick design on a NEW engine.

I have 22K miles on it, and I'm thinking it might be a timing problem, 
because it doesnt do it idling, only under strain...It cant be a bad rod, 
or lifter then I'd hear it all the time...

Any imput would be greatly appreiciated (sp!) its going back to the 
dealer monday 6/16 - this will be the 3rd time in 5 weeks...a lot of 
other problem too....

Matt

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 09:53:50 -0400
Subject: Oil query

I took a look at the Oil FAQ in the RoverWeb site (nice piece of work it
is...), but one thing I didn't find was temperature recommendations for
various grades of oil.

What brings this to mind is that I'm considering converting Mr. Churchill
to 20W50 or even straight 50 in the summer, especially with the 90+ days
we've had here of late.

Anybody got any temp. recommendations on ths stuff for a venerable 2.25?

                    Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 08:40:52 -0700
From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Rovers to Belize

On chance this information did not get sent to you from Ben or Mark, I 
wanted to inform you of the lodging arrangements in Villahermosa. 

On the evening of the 16th, we will be arriving Villahermosa, Tabasco, 
Mexico. Group arrangements have been made with the Hyatt 
Regency-Villahermosa. Having stayed there on several other occasions, I 
can assure you that the place is nice and your truck secure in their 
parking lot next to the hotel.

To secure a reservation you must contact the Hotel direct to make you 
reservation and payment arrangements!!!!!!!! This must be done 
immediately. They are holding 17 rooms for us and I now that 12 are 
spoken for already. I suspect that if more rooms are needed, there should 
be some available now. This is a popular place and does fill up.

Send or call your reservation/payment information to:
	
	Hyatt Regency
	52-800-23-234	toll free fax
	(93)15-1234	voice not toll free

If you need more information, drop me a note or call
Jon Haskell
Indianapolis
317.873.0302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 07:03:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Justin Fellenz <justinf@acr.org>
Subject: 24 volt winch.

I just bought a unimog, and I need some goodies like a winch. Mostly a
winch, actually, though some lights would be cool. Spencer  Norcross
mentioned that some of y'all have some 24 volts stuff laying around.
Anybody got a winch thay'd like to part with?

I'd also consider a hydraulic unit, if that surfaces first.

Justin Fellenz

              ----------------------------------------------------

Justin Fellenz
Webmaster
American College of Radiology
1891 Preston White Dr.
Reston, VA 20191
justinf@acr.org

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Hi-lift Jack Use #231
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 97 15:05:07 BST

Finally got around to swapping my wheels around this lunchtime. Why does it
have to be so humid?

Anyway, that's done. Still had a little trouble with one the front wheels.
Particularly one of the nuts. I didn't have any tubing handy, unless you
could the handle of the hi-lift jack. Yep, fitted that onto the cross-brace,
with rest of the jack and pushed down! :-)

(previously I was "jumping" on the cross-brace with no effect)

(incidentally any mail sent to me 5pm lastnight through to 9am BST didn't
arrive - network/machine trouble at this end)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: kma367@gsilink.com
Date:          Wed, 11 Jun 1997 22:12:22 +0000
Subject:       SHOCK ABSORBERS OR DAMPERS

Blain  Hughes wrote he wanted shocks for a series land rover.

Anyway heres the part numbers
RANCHO  5000 @ $40 each
front  part # 5163
rear  part #  5169
EXPLORER PRO COMP @$35 each
front part # 318500
rear part # 321506
The Rancho or Explorers can be bought at 4Wheel Wholesalers 1800 - 
421-1050 in California.
Bilstein @$50 each
front ( 1970 toyota land cruiser , you have to ream the bushings)
rear (1987 toyota 4runner , exact fit)

I tried using the Rancho 5000 first , gave me good articulation , but 
a bouncy ride.
The Bilstein give an excellent Defender 90 like city ride , however 
you do lose some articulation.  If you use the series as a commuting
vehicle , the Bilstein is unbeatable.  For pure trail use the Rancho 
is better.

Ozzie Hernaez
1985 SIII 88 S.W.
1997 Yamaha 125 DT

------------------------------

From: "Zeigler, Christopher L." <zeiglecl@Maritz.com>
Subject: Noise from rear hubs?
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 09:11:16 -0500

I have just replaced the all of the hub oil seals on my rear axle (SIII 
88).  In doing so, I packed the bearings and the hub.  The problem I am now 
having is a strange noise that appears when I let my foot off of the gas. 
 It is a  somewhat loud, low-pitched rumbling.  This is the first time I 
have attempted something like this on any vehicle so I assume that I did 
something incorrectly.  I am confident that I have all of the pieces in the 
right place but I feel that I may have neglected to do some sort of 
adjustment.  Is there any type of adjustment that has to be done when 
reassembling the hub?  If so what is it and how can I do it?  Is there 
anything else that I could have bungled?  I would appreciate any help that 
I can get.
Thanks in advance,
Chris

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:33:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Waxoyl at NAPA?

Gerald: Re: Rustfre': I have used it in aerosol cans only, which I bought at
a local parts store.. I am not sure if it is available in bulk, but if it is
I think it would apply the same as Waxoyl. I think I will make some inquiries
about this.
 I bought a "professional rustproof kit" from JC Whitney a while back which
consisted of a  spray nozzle and bottle and selection of wands for use with
an workshop air line. I thinned the Waxoyl with mineral spirits and filled
the spray bottle and  I found that this is the easiest way to apply Waxoyl.
The good/bad news is that it really lays the stuff down which will quickly
exhaust your supply if youre not careful, but also does a very complete job.
The "stock" Waxoyl hand pump is slow and time consuming. Cheers. Andy
Blackley

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:32:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Noise from rear hubs?

Rumbling?

Sounds to me like the preload on the bearings isn't right - probably too
tight.

To do the preload properly one must put the nut on and tighten, using a
dial indicator to watch the runout of the hub. Personally, the day I get
that fanatic, shoot me.....8*)

In practice, many folks just put the nut on till hand tight, spin the hub 3
or 4 times, then take it up 1/8 turn with the wrench. The hub should spin
freely, with just a bit of resistance. Also, make sure you don't increase
the preload too much when putting on the outside nut and locking washer.

If you can move the hub up and down appreciably, it's too loose. If there's
no movement at all, it's probably too tight.

Dumb question - how did the bearing races look when you cleaned them? Could
be you've got a bearing going bad, too.

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 07:43:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Justin Fellenz <justinf@acr.org>
Subject: reply to woes

Sounds to me like your ignition isn't advancing far enough, or maybe not
consistently. IF you have the timing set right at idle, get the specs for
where the curve should be at say 3000 rpm, or better, 2, 3, and 4k, and
check it at all those points. If the springs in your distributor are
cooked, it will over advance and the truck will knock. You can also get a
knock from under advancing, which can be caused by low vacuum (if your
truck has vacuum advance) or over-stiff springs, or bad
adjustment--sometimes guys get inside their distributor and try to recurve
it by bending the tabs that hold the spings--they are rarely successful).
Not enough advance causes the truck to heat up, so that'll give you an idea.

The other possibility is that your timing is just sloppy. If your timing
chain has more than about 10 degrees of slack in it, the rotor can bounce
around between advanced and retarded and give you all kinds of wacky
noises. This in't usually a big deal when you're cruising--mostly you'll
notice it when you're under heavy engine braking at speed. You'll get a lot
of popping and cracking out the pipe. You can sorta check timing chain
slack by putting a degree wheen on the crank and taking the distributor cap
off and moving the crank back and forth to see how many degrees of
deflection you get before the rotor starts to move. It's not real accurate,
but it'll give you an idea.

That's my best guess. Hope it helps.

Justin

              ----------------------------------------------------

Justin Fellenz
Webmaster
American College of Radiology
1891 Preston White Dr.
Reston, VA 20191
justinf@acr.org

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 97 10:35:08 EST
Subject: Re: Oil query

>> 20W50 or even straight 50 in the summer, especially with the 90+ days 
>>we've had here of late.
>>Anybody got any temp. recommendations on ths stuff for a venerable 2.25?

Al-
I run 20w50 all year round. This winter I bought some 10w-30 but never used 
it since it never really got cold. On the few 0-15 degree mornings I had to 
start it twice, but it seemed more a case of it just being too damn cold. 
The starter sohuldn't have any problem turning the engine over unless its 
weak or has bad connections.

As for the non-multi-grades,FWIW, I was over at fellow Rover owner Pete 
Daniels' house, and he was finishing an oil change on his 88". I was 
surprised to see him using straight 30 weight. Hs theory: All the warm oil 
he's changed never seemed to be any different consistency than the cold 
stuff. He's got a 72 Volvo 144 with a motor that he had rebuilt 150,000 
miles ago, been running it on 30 weight ever since the rebuild, outlasted 
the car he rebuilt it for. This motor's been in the 144 about 4 years, more 
in the previous car, and near as I can tell still holds its own on the road 
just liek the day it was born. We got about 27mpg on the way up to Carlisle 
this year. Pete's an ex-professional mechanic who isn't on the net, or have 
email, and isn't expeosed to all this "conventional" "wisdom", like we are. 
He does things his own way and I've seen him acheive some nice results. 

So go ahead and use whatever the hell oil you think makes sense. My guess, 
whatever you're using is fine.

later
Dave 
a 20W50 man all the way...

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Aluminum Wing Protectors
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 14:51:56 +0000

    I am contemplating making up some diamond plate aluminum wing protectors
similar to the genuine ones.  If there is sufficient interest I will make a
few sets to keep costs reasonable.
  If you have an interest in this please reply directly to me  
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 09:07:01 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Temporary LR Importation to US?

First excuse the multiple posts but this is a general question,
and I need as  wide an "audience" as possible.

Someone asked me last night about the possibility of temporary 
importation of a diesel Land Rover and I said I'd ask around.
Obviously the best theoretical action to take is to inquire of 
US Customs, which she is doing, but I though someone might know
the best questions to ask or have useful information.

So here are the details.

Someone in this country (US) for less than a year wants to purchase a
newer diesel LR (presumably 300TDi), bring it temporarily into the
country while she's at school, and then ship it out to Argentina.
The basic question is:  "Is this possible and if so what is the appropriate 
way to proceed with US Customs?"  She has contacted LRNA
and (surprise :) ) been told it's not possible.

I'm pretty sure it's impossible for her to purchase the vehicle "in
the US" and that if it's even possible to bring in temporarily that
it would have to be already owned prior to entry.  True?

Thanks for any input and direction.

cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  As an interesting aside, it was somewhat amusing to me how
this came up.  I'm taking an evening course which involved introducing
ourselves to fellow class members.  Somewhere along the line I 
mentioned I worked on LRs as a hobby.  I had one fellow ask me
about help in getting a group together for assistance in restoring 
a '72 Mercury something or other and then the lady in question later
asked me about how to import a diesel LR ... interesting... she
thought it might be possible if " the appropriate catalytic converter
modifications were made" ..... Uhhhm..well,..not really..[I hope I
did a decent job of explaining the difference between petrol and diesel 
systems  :) ]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:46:32 -0600
From: Jeff Swanson <jeffws@qualcomm.com>
Subject: M Class suspension travel
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="=====================_866069192==_" ]

I hate to start this tread again, but the latest issue of "the star", a
Mercedes owners' club magazine has an article on the M-Class. I have
attached a picture (in jpeg form) from the article that shows how limited
the suspension travel is. I thought some people might get a kick out of this. 

Jeff
--=====================_866069192==_
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/mac-binhex40; name="Mclass.jpg" ]

Jeff Swanson
Mechanical Engineer
Qualcomm, Inc. 
Boulder, CO Office
303-473-6739  FAX 303-473-6650
jeffws@qualcomm.com
--=====================_866069192==_--

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:48:10 -0400
Subject: Re: M Class suspension travel

Re: Suspension lack of travel:

BWWWWWAAAAHAHAHAHahahaha.... that thing's a rollover looking for a hill to
fall down....

Thanks - my old 109, mil. springs and all, moves better than that.

               Al R.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 18:42:07 BST
From: postmaster@emarkt.com
Subject: Message too large for system (Max 30KBytes)

Failed to deliver message for the following reason:
	Message too large for system (Max 30KBytes)

 Original message follows:

          11 Jun 97 18:40 BST
	by playground.sun.com (8.8.6.Beta5/8.8.6.Beta5) with SMTP id KAA25940;
	Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:38:49 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:46:32 -0600
X-To: rro@playground.sun.com, Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Jeff Swanson <jeffws@qualcomm.com>
Subject: M Class suspension travel
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.25885.19970611103751@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

--=====================_866069192==_

I hate to start this tread again, but the latest is

...rest of message truncated

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 14:04:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Temporary LR Importation to US?

On Wed, 11 Jun 1997, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:

> The basic question is:  "Is this possible and if so what is the appropriate 
> way to proceed with US Customs?"  She has contacted LRNA
> and (surprise :) ) been told it's not possible.

	Just for trivia, this is possible to do for Canada.  The vehicle
gets a "visitors permit" and can remain in Canada for a specified length
of time.  It must however, leave the country, cannot be resold etc.

------------------------------

From: "Broward Orthopaedic Specialists" <BOS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: D90 leather rear bench seat for sale or trade
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 16:28:12 -0400

I have a grey leather bench seat from a 1994 D90 for sale. This is the OEM
rear seat and is easy to install. The seat is essentially new with NO
damage.
Price is $300.00 plus S/H.

Please e-mail for info.

John 

------------------------------

From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 16:58:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: No Subject

Hi Adrian!

I recently bit the bullet and had some work performed on a '66 MGB (I was
stupid enough to give it as a 5th anniversary gift. Now it has some kind of
sentimental value and my wife refuses to let me sell it even though I now it
will soon begin to rust, the paint will bubble and... The brake line will
fail whilst I'm trying to stop on the busy streets of Washington DC which
closes this ) I was having the brake repair when the mechanic noticed about
$750 dollars worth of other things that could cause me to loose my life.

So anyway. One of these "things" was a loose drive shaft and f---ed up
u-joints. He repaired or replaced these and now my MGB no longer "pops" out
of 2nd gear. Oh yes, I forgot to mention that my MGB has "popped" out of gear
since I bought it. I always thought it was the gearbox. I was told this by a
mechanic / friend. The same one who sold me the MGB. The same one who rebuilt
my LR gearbox. The same one who drove my LR without oil and f---ed up motor.
The same one who shortly there after moved to New York.

Hope this helps.

Cheers n' Regards
Bill McDonald
Practicing the ancient art of "wret-ching". Luv' 'ya  Bill!
1969 109- Beauty
1966 MGB- The Blue Car
1978 Honda Goldwing Fully Dressed Like my Idol, Bill. Not Billy Idol who has
a Harley
Many other stupid things

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Aluminum corrosion inhibitor: LPS Procyon
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:34:14 GMT

While learning about Waxoyl I came across LPS Procyon which according
the manufacturer "provides greater than 1500 hours salt spray
protection to aluminum." This seems to have been developed for
seaplanes. Anyone know how well it works on Land Rovers? Especially
those that spend some time near the sea?

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 17:11:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: D90 Woes.....

In a message dated 6/11/97 10:33:35 AM, you wrote:

>Under excelleration I have a "pinging", "knocking" sound.  Almost like I 
>was using the wrong octane (I've only used 92+ in it) and you get that 
>tapping sound from the manifolds...(valve assembly).  It sound like and 
>old Buick....instead of and old Buick design on a NEW engine.

I just got back from the dealership (and my door still doesn't seal well) and
while there, I saw an engine with valve covers and rocker ass'y taken off...
one of the valves wasn't even with the others; it was 1/16-1/8th lower. The
mechanic said it was pinging... also make sure your manifold to downpipe
gaskets are tight.

pat
93 "hissing wind" 110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 17:19:40 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Temporary LR Importation to US?

> Someone asked me last night about the possibility of temporary 
> importation of a diesel Land Rover and I said I'd ask around.
> Obviously the best theoretical action to take is to inquire of 
> US Customs, which she is doing, but I though someone might know
> the best questions to ask or have useful information.

It used to be, and I presume still is, possible for a
non-citizen/non-resident visiting the US as a tourist to import a
vehicle for their visit of 6 months or less. There have been several
articles recently about folks visiting the US with late model LRs. The
only possibility for temporary import that is listed in the NHTSA rules
is by diplomats or members of foreign armed services stationed in the
US. So maybe tourists don't "import" but do something else. My guess is
that someone here on a student visa or temporary employment visa is not
able to import a non-conforming vehicle.

BTW, the complete NHTSA regulations can be found at:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/standards/chapt301.html

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 18:23:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Gearbox repair

 Adrian writes :-
Subject: SII 2nd gear slip

Having just paid a kings ransom for a full rebuild of the gearbox in
February (and I did get a big box of old gogs back from the workshop) I
am sad to say that the 109 is slipping out of 2nd when changing down
from 3rd - more times than not she just hops out of gear.
 
  There are several possible causes, how experienced were the garage who
repaired the box ?
 The simple one is mixed up detent springs, the more complicated is the
radial and axial clearance of the second gear on the bronze bearing bush,
was the bush replaced ? The next possible problem is with the second gear
itself, in operation the first gear - mainshaft  slides over the side of the
second gear to fix it to the mainshaft, the teeth on the side of the gear
become chamfered and make it easy for the gears to slip out of engagement,
similarly the teeth inside the first gear can also wear chamfered which can
also lead to slipping out of gear.
 Was it slipping out of gear before the repair ? which gears were replaced ?
 More cynically I too can give you a big box of old cogs to make it look
like I repaired it if you wish.
 For me the gearbox repair is simple, it's the effort invbolved in taking it
out and putting it back which  puts me off these  days.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 18:26:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Oil pump rebuild

Nate writes re oil pump rebuild.
 in my experience one of the best things to do with an old oil pump is to
follow the manuals procedure on lapping in the bypass valve ball seat and
fit a new ball.never seen much problem with the gears themselves
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 22:43:33 -0700
From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Rovers to Belize

A correction on the numbers for Hyatt-Villahermosa. The toll free fax 
number given to me was not correct. Here are all the numbers that I have:
	Voice	93-15-1234
	Fax	93-15-1235
	Fax	91-800-23-234

Good luck

Jon Haskell

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 20:44:32 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: frame oiling

Can anyone comment on the suitability of used synthetic oil for
rusproofing? A friend maintains a fleet of vans that run synthetic oil
so it's available to me. I think it would migrate better than most of
the Waxoyl alternatives I've heard mentioned but don't know if there's a
lot of detergents or anything else I should be worried about. I know it
won't smell like 90wt but...

Thanks in advance, Greg

------------------------------

From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 08:26:37 +0000
Subject: unsubscribe-list

unsubscribe-list

------------------------------

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