Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:39:00 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Seat Covers

Just back from two weeks of Land Rover watching in Iceland (more later), I
noticed that Baby is having problems with her seats. Does anyone know of a
source for heavy cloth seat covers I can put over Baby's black "deluxe"
seats?

  _______
. |___|__\_==
. | _ |  | --]   Ned Heite,                ><DARWIN>
. =(O)-----(O)=  Camden, DE 19934           / \  / \
---------------------------------
"Baby" Series IIA 88" 2.25L petrol Land Rover
Explore Icelandic wool:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland---------
Recent research:  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html ----

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:46:09 -0400
Subject: Re: IIA oil pressure

First off, a couple of questions:

What is the light doing? Does it go off within a few seconds or two, then
the gauge takes a while to come up, or are both reluctant to operate?

If it's the former, i'd suggest that your oil pump's OK and that you're
just seeing the time it takes the gauge to pressurize.

If the latter, then you really do need to have a look below. Just pull the
pump and give it an overhaul, testing the components and replacing them as
needed.

it's a simple process - shouldn't take you more than an hour or two even if
you're careful.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:07:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light .... ARGH!

You wrote: 
>Last Sunday night, at about 11:30 pm in the middle of a northern New
>Mexico forrest, my Check Engine light came on.  Oh just great, my D90 

is
>gonna crap out in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere.  I
>was with a friend in his RR so at least I knew I could get back to the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>large immovable tree!).  I pulled the fault code the next day, #45 -
>Lambda (oxygen) sensor right bank.  I cleared the code and the fault 
did
>not return.  I preliminarily checked the sensor and wiring to it and
>everything looked OK, I'll check it again later this week.  So far, 
the
>long drive home yesterday, and the drive to work today and the fault 
has
>not reappeared.  We were doing some moderate water crossings, maybe 
some
>water/mud got in the sensor and corrupted it for a bit?  I seem to
>remember someone else having this happen, but can't remember the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Chris Brosious
>'94 D90
Happened to me some months back.  It was a bad relay (one of them near 
the fuel injector computer).  Another time it happened it was because 
the wipers were iced to the winshield, blew the fuse, and because the 
tach is on the same fuse it sent bad data to the fuel injector - the 
light came on.

Lucas
d90sw

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:25:19 -0400
Subject: Cracked Block (Oh Noooooo!!!)

     All,
     
     I knew it already, but my frameover mech says my block is 
     cracked (1960 Ser II 2.25l petrol, NADA) and I am 
     comsidering options.  Engine has less than 7000 miles since 
     total rebuild by a "friend," and the crack was poorly 
     repaired at that time, having been found *after* reassembly. 
      (I know; I know; don't say it.)
     
     1) Use up my hoarded restoration credit at RN, plus about 
     $1700, for a Turner rebuilt engine.
     2) Find someone going to Mechanicville for AB rally to haul 
     back a Turner from them -- no restore credit, but about 
     $3-400 cheaper on basic price, and I keep my restoration 
     credit intact.
     3) Find a good block cheap enough to warrant the extra labor 
     (is there a difference in the block, as I suspect, between 
     II and IIA??).
     4) Repair, which may or may not work out as a permanent fix.
     
     Anyone going to Mechanicville from DC area? (RRO content)
     
     Anyone point to a certifiably "sierra hotel" welder (DC 
     area) who can repair my block to a high standard?
     
     Hank 
     (Empty oil spot in front of the house, 
     awaiting return of Dreadnought)
     Favorite dinosaur documentary: Jurasic Park
     Favorite war documentary: Catch 22
     Favorite immigrant documentary: War of the Worlds
     Favorite frontier documentary: Dances with Wolves
     "Famous NY Bridge for Sale, (includes documentary 
     paperwork)"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 06:23:19 -0600
From: Norm Lewis <norm@kpco.com>
Subject: (no subject)

get lro-digest 970528

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 8:27:46 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Seat Covers

Try "Sunbrella" canvas at your local marine supply or chandlery. Wears 
like steel and is UV resistant. Comes in a variety of colors and you 
clean it with a garden hose. You can also sew it on your home machine, if 
you have one.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Steering and Tyres
Date: Wed, 28 May 97 13:47:20 BST

Yep, another problem! :-)

(yesterday's possible carb problem was due to a finicky choke which is now
effective [previously I was running too rich for it to have any effect!])

This ones been around for a little while I suspect.

Firstly: My first set of tyres wore quickly, although they were remoulds of
indeterminate age. My second set are showing wear on the inside - but okay on
the outside. The rear set seem okay, but haven't checked them too closely
(previously, it was always the front pair which wore quickly).

My front wheels appear to "dip" inwards at the bottom, ie:
                   
              _               _
              \ \  engine   / /
               \ \---------/ /
                \_\       /_/____________________roadsurface

                   ^------^
                      |
                     Increased wear here!

Are my wheels meant to do this, and by how much? I've found some
figures in the book - castor, camber,etc, but no explanations!
My toe-in (ie. tracking) was checked just after my new tyres were fitted,
and was within range.

Has anyone had experience of this sort of thing? I suspect I've always had
this problem, but from the tyre wear point of view, it needs sorting.
What needs replacing - and don't say complete axle!

Cheers,

Richard (skew-iff ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 8:28:51 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: clicking in the motor

Must you be such a nit?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:59:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering and Tyres

Re: wear on the outside:

Yes, indeed - it's called camber.

You need to rotate yer tyres to minimize the wear on any one typrea t the
outside. I haven't done this myself, resulting in my need to have my front
tyres dismounted, turned and remounted.

It's ugly, but there's not a lot you can do about it.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 09:01:52 -0400
Subject: Re: clicking in the motor

>Must you be such a nit?
>Bill Adams
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
>"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

All right, what the Hell did I do THIS time?

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Steering and Tyres
Date: Wed, 28 May 97 14:12:21 BST

> Re: wear on the outside:
> Yes, indeed - it's called camber.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> It's ugly, but there's not a lot you can do about it.
>                     ajr

Thanks. I did mean to rotate my tyres just before going up to the Peak
District, but found the  nuts locked solid - yep both front wheels were put
on by garages (different garages though). I have a slow puncture in a rear
tyre, so I'll get the front nuts loosened and hand-tightened at the same time
as I get it repaired.

I suspected it was "camber" that described what I was observing. I'll
try measuring it.
So, does anyone know what "castor" is? I doubt it refers to castor oil
in my hub.

Another interesting point, is that my observed wear is on the inside of the the
tyres - not the outside - as you say. I agree that it should be that way, but
its not what I'm seeing!!

Curiouser and curioser thought Alice

Richar (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: Figuring it out, new list member
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:20:06 -0500

Hi!  I am a new Land Rover owner and decided to join the list for moral,
and technical support.  This is my second British vehicle, so I like to
think I'm not completely unprepared for my new ownership.  Questions
about the list are...

Do I send to :	lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net 
 or:		Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

I'm not sure which is the correct one.

Background: (Optional Reading)

I just purchased a 1970 IIa 88 Rover with a safari top and overdrive. 
No idea about the miles and I'll need to replace the right front
outrigger.  I also looked at a 88 Range Rover, but it was decidedly to
practical. I went for the rattle trap.  I now will have as everyday
transportation two older British vehicles, and my wife hasn't stopped
rolling her eyes.  I sold my (couldn't take it another day) 1993 Ford
Escort with 30k on the clock to by the Landie.  I might be crazy, but it
just wasn't any fun to own.  I should be receiving it either late this
week, or sometime early the next.  I'm sure I'll have lot's of
questions.  The guy I bought it from is a Land Rover nut and I'm sure
it's in fairly good maintenance as he drives it everyday.  I'm going to
do a spring cleaning on it as outlined in the last issue of LRO
International.  Let me know if there are any other critical steps.  I've
got catalogs in the mail and am definitely going to have to do a heater
upgrade before winter hits.  I'll stop there for now, but I'm sure I'll
be writing soon.  Thanks for having this list available!

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 14:23:22 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Steering and Tyres

. My second set are showing wear on the inside - but okay on
>the outside.
Well,I dunno,but your wheels seem to be in pretty much
the right place.Except if anything I'd expect wear on the
*outside* of the tyre.What's it wearing,radials or Xply?
If your swivels,wheel bearings,springs and bushes are fairly
reasonable,in my view its got to be the tracking,checked or
not.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 14:36:41 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Steering and Tyres

>So, does anyone know what "castor" is? I doubt it refers to castor oil
>in my hub.

You wouldnt enjoy your ale if it was....
I always understood that castor was the offset of the kingpin
(swivel) looked at from the side of the vehicle.To enable the
wheels to self centre.The castor effect,as on Safeways trolleys.
Well,the new ones anyway:-)
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 06:47:56 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: How many cylinders do you need?

Jan Schokker wrote:

> A colleague of mine has put a full tank of gas in a diesel Volkswagen Golf
> (don't know what it is called overseas) once.

I've been told a similar tale of woe only the vehicle involved was a
Dodge pickup. Apparently the performance was poor but otherwise the 300
miles to the next filling station were incident free.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:01:08 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: IIA oil pressure

Braman Wing wrote:
 
> the oil pressure is very reluctant
> to rise on startup, taking 10-15 seconds.

Way too long. Two seconds is normal, a little longer in very cold
weather. Check for crud on the oil pump intake screen and possibly the
seat for ball in the pressure relief valve. I'm assuming here that the
problem is not with whatever electric or mechanical gauge you're using.

Cheer, Greg

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: RE: IIA oil pressure
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 09:17:09 -0500

Is the gauge a sender unit type or does an oil line run to the gauge? 
Mine doesn't work and I'm wondering what it will take to fix it.

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"

>----------
>From: 	Greg Moore[SMTP:gmoore@island.net]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>problem is not with whatever electric or mechanical gauge you're using.
>Cheer, Greg

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Sighting
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 10:37:00 -0400

En route to the Triumph Club Spring Fling in Collingwood, Friday 23, we
spotted a 110 2 door on the South Service Road of the QEW in Stoney
Creek. White, Hardtop, with roofrack, Land Rover Logos on door plus some
other graphics. Anyone seen this too? Ideas on its ID, origin,
destination

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 11:03:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Steering and Tyres

In a message dated 5/28/97 9:19:29 AM, you wrote:

>So, does anyone know what "castor" is? I doubt it refers to castor oil
>in my hub.

Yup, it is called "caster" and it is the phenomenon that supposedly keeps
*properly functioning* shopping-cart wheels in line with the direction of
travel. Also described as a self-centering effect due to the steering axis
being ahead of the tire's contact with the ground.

Or something along those lines. 

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 07:36:44 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: IIA oil pressure

Chuque Henry wrote:

> Is the gauge a sender unit type or does an oil line run to the gauge?
> Mine doesn't work and I'm wondering what it will take to fix it.

A mechanical guage will have an oil line running into it. Electrical
gauges rely on a grounded variable resistance sender connected to the
guage by a single wire. Unless a PO has made changes yours will be a
mechanical guage.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 08:34:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: SER unlead vs. lead

What is the difference 'tween lead and unleaded heads? Surely it is more than
just valve clearance.  Does the composition of the metals used come into play? 
Specifically I am considering rebuilding a 2.25L petrol and making it unleaded.
Do I need to purchase an unleaded head or can I adjust the valves and be safe. 
Also what are those clearances? 

Thanks
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: Seat Covers
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 11:34:55 -0400

My original Deluxe Seats were barely distinguishable beneath all the 
duct tape.  Like the commercial on TV, when I got out sometimes I 
carried a long strip of tape "behind" me.
I bought 4,  kids size 12 "T" shirts of the same color.  Stretched 
them over each cushion and had instant, easily removeable and washable 
seat covers.  Cheap too.  Not bad looking, sort of in keeping with the 
Series look.  I later refined my "covers" to include, jackets & 
sweatshirts (tie the arms behind the seat backs), leather skirts (this 
one was a black leather my wife discarded; it fit the center seat back 
"like a glove").  I still use the T shirts as covers to keep the new 
seat covers clean when off-roading.  It's a quick and cheap way to 
preserve the nice ones.
Perhaps in the UK you can buy just the covers from Trakkers and other 
after market seat makers, but I never called to check on this. 
 Eventually I obtained a set of nearly new cloth Trakker seats from a 
wrecked Series IIA.  I stripped off those covers and put them on my 
original seats after removing the deluxe vinyl covers. (the difference 
in quality materials and construction between the original seats and 
the Trakkers was remarkable.  The originals were quite superior in 
design.)  If you can get the covers only from an after market seat 
maker, I highly recommend keeping the original seats.  I have tried 
the new high-back steel framed Trakkers and they are quite comfy and 
provide head restraint too, a safety feature.
Depends on what you want to spend and availability.  An upholstery 
shop can duplicate your original covers in any fabric you might 
choose.  I have seen such examples that turned out very nice indeed 
and at a reasonable price.  A friend had his 3 front and 2 rear bench 
seats recovered in a velour fabric for @ $400 dollars recently.  A 
shop in West Point, VA. Did the work.  I could find out name and # if 
you desire.

BTW, anyone going to the BRLR club's off road event near Blacksburg, 
VA  this weekend ?  A small group will be leaving Richmond Friday 
morning should you like to join us.  Check out the Blue Ridge LR site 
for details.
www.g3.net/brlrc/

John Tackley
'74 Series III 88 - "Gen. Lee"
Richmond, VA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 16:45:38 +0100
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: SER unlead vs. lead

Paul Gussack wrote:
> What is the difference 'tween lead and unleaded heads? Surely it is more than
> just valve clearance.  Does the composition of the metals used come into play?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Do I need to purchase an unleaded head or can I adjust the valves and be safe.
> Also what are those clearances?

I thought the valve seats had to be replaced with hardened steel types
'cos unleaded burns hotter than leaded and would otherwise wear the
valve-seats out pretty quick.

I wanted to change to gas some years ago and was told that hardened
valve-seats were needed for that as well.

Mick Forster

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 11:42:24 -0400
Subject: Re: SER unlead vs. lead

Clearances vs. metals:

Clearances have little to do with it - it's the composition of the exhaust
valves and seats that is the issue here.

The ones for unleaded fuel use are made of Stellite - a much harder and
more wear-resistant metal than the standard valve is made of.

Typically an unleaded "conversion" replaces the valves and seats, using
Stellite bits for the exhaust side. The intake bits remain basically the
same. if you were planning on doing a proper rebuild of the head this won't
be all that markedly expensive - most of the cost is in the labor to
install the bts.

Hope this helps..... -ajr

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: RE: SER unlead vs. lead
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 11:02:06 -0500

I think this might be something for me to worry about.  As far as I know
the current owner has been running unleaded for a long time, is this
going to be a problem?  I don't know of anywhere the even sells leaded
gas.

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"
1970 Series IIa 88" Land Rover
1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118)
 

>----------
>From: 	Mick Forster[SMTP:cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>I wanted to change to gas some years ago and was told that hardened
>valve-seats were needed for that as well.
>Mick Forster

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 12:36:04 -0400
Subject: Rovers by the Sea / Cracked Block

     All,
     
     Thanks for the quick replys and esp for a couple offers of help.  I'd 
     like to take up an offer of a spare 2.25 block from one of the list 
     subscribers.  He will be at the Rovers by the Sea event in CT this 
     weekend.
     
     Is anyone from the DC area headed to that event and perhaps willing to 
     bring home the block?  I'd certainly be willing to offer fair 
     compensation as otherwise, I'll have to ship commercially to take 
     advantage of the fortunate availability.
     
     Regards,
     Hank

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 19:13:27 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Hiding in the undergrowth

Re: colour schemes

: Richard wrote:
: Does anyone know if  there any books about featuring military colour schemes?
: Currently I'm driving around with a NATO green truck with white grab handles.

I was thinking about this the other day too. I have a bronze green truck with 
the original camouflage underneath. (well, at least that's what I think it is 
poking through the flaky bits)

I was toying with the idea of putting it back into camouflage. Are there any 
pros/cons to this ? Does anyone have a camo ex-mil truck ?

Possible cons are :

1) Being mistaken for a military convoy
2) Being mistaken for a target practice wreck
3) But Seriously - No entry into France ?

Possible pros are : 

1) Being mistaken for an army vehicle by a farmer with a large shotgun
   (get orf my land... )
2) Difficult for thieves to find ?
3) But Seriously - Originality 

Also what is the secret of the 'daubs', there must be a defined pattern.

Cheers, Paul.

PS For those without Italian phrase books - mutande = underpants

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 16:05:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: DC area: Idea for possible meeting

Hi all,

I have been talking to friends/coworkers who are professional mechanics or
whose spouses are professional mechanics (including one diesel mechanic) to
see if they'd be willing to come to a LR meeting for the purposes of showing
tips on brakes (bleeding--troubleshooting), clutch problems,
distributor/ignition/timing problems, and in general give opinions on noises
and such.  I think for a couple of them the lure of beer and edibles (pizza,
bbq, etc) would probably do the trick.

Any interest in this?  

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 May 97 16:23:01 EST
Subject: Re: DC area: Idea for possible meeting

>I have been talking to friends/coworkers who are professional mechanics or 
>whose spouses are professional mechanics (including one diesel mechanic) to 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>and such.  I think for a couple of them the lure of beer and edibles (pizza, 
>bbq, etc) would probably do the trick.

>Any interest in this?  

yeah, we thought of having a winter and summer tune up or something like 
that...
i'll bring the beer and chips...

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 16:58:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: A bit of a time slip

On Tue, 27 May 1997, Tackley, John wrote:

> What TeriAnn is lamenting is the passing of the old original LRO 
> culture as it existed here on this list not so long ago.  Before it 
> was fashionable to be seen in an old Series Land Rover, only those 
> true enthusiasts for the marque participated on this list. 

	Culture still exists and many of those people are still around.
Check out the "netslum" at the OVLR Birthday Party or the ROAV
Mid-Atlantic Rally.  It just tends to stay more submerged on this list
since membership skyrocketed and volume rose.  More mail moves as private
responses that hit the list now-a-days I'd bet.

> the new "settlers" come to inhabit the land of the SUVs, and the LROs 
> of old are the "natives" who resent being supplanted from their turf. 

	Well...  More like we created a reservation for the (RRO list) and
kept this one for ourselves... 

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 23:28:56 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: A bit of a time slip

I can only echo the sentiments expressed by TeriAnn and the subsequent
replies from others - there is however one aspect which I feel worth
pointing out.

Anyone jointing the list with a brand-new "pseudo-saloon" solihull
product will naturally be tuned into the more "executive" attractions of
their vehicle. Who isn't interested in a bigger, hungrier, more powerful
and more complicated motor when it exists as a symbol of economic
where-with-all and automacho power? Hell I'd even think twice before
saying no to a 300 Tdi myself. and the other executive details such as
air-conditioning, sun-roof, stereo, ABS are equally attractive, even
when installed in the "aluminium armchair on wheels" which I am sad to
say the D90 and D110 no longer resemble.

But for us series-buffs we should also remember - there was a time when
our trucks represented the state of the art, when series i or willy's
J**p owners probably viewed the Series III, with all it's platic trim,
as the thin end of the wedge which would one day herald the decline of
all-things-solihull (they were probably right) - even so, the series III
is no longer state of the art (though I wouldn't drive anything else).

A couple of harse winters, especially by-the-sea, a few sheep or
chickens in the back, a couple of good off-raod weekends, a summer
holiday ot two, and plenty of children, dogs, and
forever-tampering-owners, and the Defender is robbed of it's executive
appearance and stands visible to all for what it is, a Series 5 - just a
series with more things to go wrong, more plastic to miscolour, fall
off, distort, but all the same a loveable, affordable, series which for
all the efforts of solihull before and after BMW is unable to be
anything else, and which has inherited the good and bad genes of the
land Rover heritage like its ancestors.

One day, we might even hear poeple discussing putting a Series III 2.25
diesel engine into a defender?

WE series folks have our standpoints - we know that our motors leak oil,
lack power, and emit more noise than CO2, but they last, and they can be
repaired, almost eternally, with the minimum of tools and the maximum of
tricks (unlike the newer models for which the opposite applies). But
lets face it - we still wave at the Defender (and maybe its owner :-) )
because it's still one of the family.

Right now, a new defender owner may be more concerned with warranties
and expensive add-ons, but in a year or three, he or she will be just as
interested in the finer points of preserving his truck as all of us.
Let's hope so anyway.

Most cars fall apart totally, or at least lose so much value in vital
parts such as body, engine, gearbox, that they become a junk-yard
candidate within 10-15 years - the secret of Solihull is that these
hulks still have a good body, motor and gearbox, long after the
component parts begin to show signs of unreliability, so preservation is
not only possible - it's worth it. And this applies in some to degree to
all Solihull products.

So why complain - I am proud to have a car which has it's original
engine after 25 years even though the rear-mirror, footpanels and
indicator switch have been changed every three years! At least the
obsolescence of my car isn't dictated by the life-span of the ash-tray.

TeriAnn is right - but there is hope (I would argue)!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 14:54:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Subject: Series I Questions

I just bought a 1954 107" Series I. I'm in the process of restoring (read
fooling around with) it and had a couple of questions.

1. Where is the timing mark (if timing using a timing light)

2. What is the purpose of the mixture warning light? (I figured it out
from context, but would like a 'technical' description as I have no
literature on the Series I)

3. What should the compression be for a healthy engine?

4. Does anyone know of anywhere in California where one can purchase a set
of Whiworth sockets? (Moss motors?)

5. Does anyone know of a condenser and coil that will fit a series I? I
was thinking that maybe one off of an old Triumph or MG would work. Does
anyone know of a part number?

6. Does anyone know how much a runing Series I 1954 107' with canvas top
for the back etc. would be worth? (it's in California, and is right hand
drive) any guesses?

Thanks in advance,

Sean Morrison

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: RE: A bit of a time slip
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 17:01:46 -0500

I just got here, and I love my series vehicle, can I expect no other
series people on this list?  I had to choose between my Series IIa and a
Range Rover and choose the IIa against everyone else's better judgment
because it just appealed to me more.  Maybe a Series list wouldn't be
out of order?

-Q

>----------
>From: 	Dixon Kenner[SMTP:dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
>	Well...  More like we created a reservation for the (RRO list) and
>kept this one for ourselves... 
>	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 18:07:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: DC area: Idea for possible meeting

count me in nate

rgds, rick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 18:29:48 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: SER unlead vs. lead

Mick Forster wrote:
> I thought the valve seats had to be replaced with hardened steel types
> 'cos unleaded burns hotter than leaded and would otherwise wear the
> valve-seats out pretty quick.

Unleaded and leaded gasoline "burn" at the same temperature. Lead
deposits from leaded gasoline serve as a lubricant for the valves. The
combination of the high temperatures of the exhaust gases and wear of
the valves against the valve seats can cause problems. Intake valves
usually don't have problems since they stay cool.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 16:12:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Series I Questions

Sean Morrison asked:

>4. Does anyone know of anywhere in California where one can purchase a set
>of Whiworth sockets? (Moss motors?)

This reference is quite old so I don't know if it's still valid but worth a try:

    JRC
    P.O. Box 2685-R
    Orcutt, CA 93455

I think this was from an old ad in Hemmings and listed Whitworth wrench and
socket sets, taps & dies (BSF) and thread files.  (Send SASE for price
list).  In case you don't know, Orcutt is in northern Santa Barbara County,
between Santa Maria and Buellton.

I got my sockets and spanners from a retired mechanic who used to work on
British motorcycles, from an ad in a local free advertiser.

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 05:41:02 -0400
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: Brake Fluid

Hello,
  I can't get anyone to order Castrol Brake Fluid up here in Alaska and
I can't afford the HazMat shipping costs of having it come from the
"Lower 48".  Does anyone have experience with the Quaker State, Super
Heavy Duty, 470 degrees DOT 4 brake fluid which states that it is safe
for European vehicles and even mentions that it is safe for Girling
cylinders.  The local Q-Lube states that it is free of inhibitors, the
elements that would destroy Europe rubber.  Is this stuff on the level? 
Is it safe?  Thanks for your help.  Awaiting to bleed many lines, Bren.
Bren Workman
708 Trott Ct.
Ft. Wainwright, AK  99703
'72 Ser III 88"
'65 Ser IIa 109" SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 21:48:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Leaky carb

Keith,
    It's possible that the float level is set a bit high. While running and
at operating temp, no fault is noted, however upon shutdown, heat soaks
upwards, warming a cool carb (they did bolt the inlet manifold to the
exhaust, didn't they). As Mr. Solex/Weber/Zenith/Rochester warms up (this
occurs for about 10 minutes or so), the fuel expands and overflows the rim
of the fuel bowl. This runs down the venturi walls and since the throttle
plate is nearly closed at idle position (the same when not running), some
fuel inevitably finds it's way out the throttle shaft opening. TeriAnn may
be right that the throttle body is worn but this won't entirely cause fuel
leaks. 
    A previous thread mentioned worn float pivot and pin, this is worth
checking while setting the float level. If indeed the setting is too high,
fuel economy should improve, although in a LR the difference between abysmal
and horrid may be too small to notice. 
               Regards,   Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 22:24:58 -0400
From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson)
Subject: Re:  Capstan Winch Procedures

I was not happy with the engagement difficulties of my Aero winch, so I
took drastic steps.  The dog clutch on this winch consists of a plate with
pegs (six, if memory serves) and a corresponding plate with holes to accept
the pegs.  It was difficult, at best, to engage the winch with the engine
running.  I solved this problem by using a drill to countersink the holes
slightly, so that the pegs slip into the holes a little more easily.  This
simple modification allows the winch to be engaged with the engine running
at low speed.

As for the rope getting hung up and the consequent mad dash for the engine
shutoff, I always found it easier to simply disengage the winch.

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI
1966 IIa 88", "Ned"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 19:35:22 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: funny sounds in the motor

So, if it is the woodruff key etc. in the timing gear, do I just take the 
front cover off and pop it back into place, or do I have to re-time the 
whole thingumy.  Should I re-do the water pump while I am at it 
(shipfitters disease...)?

Clinton "I love my truck" Coates

------------------------------

From: BDiAngelo@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 00:00:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: help

I vaguely heard of a LR restorer/importer in Old Saybrook, Connecticut.  Does
anyone know who it is and where they are located?  Thanks in advance.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 00:40:07 +0100
From: The Big Guy <guru@manhole.ow.nl>
Subject: Re: the "I cant believe its running contest" ;-)

Greetings,

Just wanted to add my two cents worth about LR's always getting you home. 
A few months after I finally had mine on the road, the wife and I took it 
on a road trip. As we were coming home it started "missing" and running 
rough. Got out and adjusted the timing a bit and was able to drive it 
home albeit with a distinct lack of power. After thoroughly going through 
the ignition I figured it must be a burned valve (Ive owned two british 
cars and both of them are the only vehicles I've ever burned valves in). 
So off came the cylinder head and sure enough one exhaust valve was 
burnt. The suprise was though that in another cylinder I had a bent 
INTAKE valve (how this happened I'll never know, sugestions?). So end of 
story is i was able to drive +100mi. on 2 cylinders while also maintaning 
min 70kph and sometimes even 80. The only other major problem was when I 
litterally fried my charging system (24v 90a = 12v 180a). Had a short in 
the bat cable (I think as that is the only cable that can carry that kind 
of load without melting). I opened the cap on my VR and it was one molten 
mess. Problems, yes but it has yet to leave me stranded. I just hope my 
luck holds when we drive it from the port in Baltimore to Akron Oh. in 
July ;-))))

Cheers,
Todd

------------------------------

From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 00:30:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: DC area: Idea for possible meeting

send details 
dhw4u@aol.com
65 IIa

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 22:12:03 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: RE: A bit of a time slip

At  5:01 PM 5/28/97 -0500, Chuque Henry wrote:

>I just got here, and I love my series vehicle, can I expect no other
>series people on this list?

Most of us are still here.  We have just been overwhelmed by very large
numbers of plushmobile owners, and we have given up crusading on the purity
of series cars vs how hard it is going to be to keep 35 year old
plushmobiles running.

Even though this is a series variant mail list (series I through Defenders)
there are probably more Range Rover and Discovery people on this list then
series variant people.

Remember THIS IS THE SERIES MAIL LIST so feel free to chat about your new
series rig.

>  I had to choose between my Series IIa and a
>Range Rover and choose the IIa against everyone else's better judgment
>because it just appealed to me more.

I'm glad to see that there is still intelligent life on this planet.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

A citizen of the internet community since 1986

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 22:27:54 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: the "I cant believe its running contest" ;-)

At 12:40 AM 5/29/97 +0100, The Big Guy wrote:

>Just wanted to add my two cents worth about LR's always getting you home.

<snip>.
>So off came the cylinder head and sure enough one exhaust valve was
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>story is i was able to drive +100mi. on 2 cylinders while also maintaning
>min 70kph and sometimes even 80.

So last fall I was commuting over a mountain range every day with three
burnt exhaust valves.  One was bad enough to be sucked into the pocket.
Right after I did the head, the front seal of the water pump went.  It had
about a half inch wobble measured at the end of the fan blade.  Did I
mention the huge crack in the exhaust manifold causing the inside to smell
of exhaust?  Or the dead accelerator pump on the carb?

During the days between Christmas & New years, I rebult the head with all
new exhaust valves & guides, replaced the water pump, the exhaust manifold,
replaced the alternator (forgot to mention the the alternator was tired and
couldn't power  the lights and heater at the same time), rebuilt the carb,
completely rewired the electrical system (creating my own wire harness
using Lucas coloured wires), and had the wings, bonnet, breakfast, front
doors, scuttle vents and tail gate painted.  Of yes, we were having major
rain storms with gayle force winds throughout that week.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

A citizen of the internet community since 1986

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 10:59:21 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Real series questions

This is a really serious series quesion for the TeriAnn-mided among you
(oops, question comes riiight at the end).

I am one of those really mad people (or so most seem to think) who do
actually use an old-ish series diesel LR not only as daily driver, but
also for going on really long trips.

I bought the thing about 2.5 years ago, before I knew of this list.  In
other words, I paid too much, did the wrong things to it (paying too
much once more) and generally got myself into all sorts of shit because
of my lack of knowledge about it.

During the course of those struggles, I learnt quite a few lessons (I
am...er...was not a mechanic) especially lessons about land rovers. 
Right at the end of my big troubles I found this list.  And realised how
much you all would have helped me, had I known earlier.

Anyway, right now everything seems to ge going allright (touch
birmabright) with the little car, but I know it's not 100% and since I
have to keep it reliable and want to look after it well, I have to keep
doing little (and sometimes larger) things now & then.  Trouble is
(here's what makes this email so TeriAnn-minded) that during the time I
really struggled with the car it really cost me quite a lot of money
(which means I dont have that much of it now!).  And now I have to make
sure that I do things that are (a) really neccessary (b) really cheap.

(I have said once before that series LR's are in my eyes a bit of a
statement against the 'silver bullet' of modern technology.  There is
something else I like about them too.  In the society I live in, young
people my age tend to be really bent on making lots of money and then
using it to try and go and have fun...in a way to try and find
happyness.

But I think that the joy I experience in the things connected to my LR
is something money can't buy.  (The joy of knowing it so well, for
example.)   )

There is NOTHING, NOTHING on this earth that is as nice as the sound of
a happy, warm 2.25 diesel engine cruising at comfortable speed along a
beautiful countryside.

Well, after that HUGE digression, here is what I want to know:

I have overhauled 99% of the engine (3 times) (3rd time lucky), and I am
pretty sure it's ok now.  I also did the steering (100%), the prop
shafts and also had a peek at the diffs (look brand new inside)...AND I
replaced the wheel bearings.

The stuff that's left over is the clutch (not the hydraulic bits of it,
that's fine), the whole transmission and the suspension.  Most of these
items are more or less OK, but I am paranoid that there might just be
something small coming loose (figuratively speaking) that could wreak
havoc once again.

I would appreciate some advice from you people as to how to
prioritise/stage handling those.

Firstly, I know that by rear springs are really bad.  I would not go on
another trip with them in their current condition.  So I guess I have to
replace them.  But can I do that and leave the front ones for a few
years?  The front springs do lean a little bit to the left, but a very
small little bit--never bothered me.  One of the rear ones looks like a
nice straight line under load.

Secondly, how much leaking is too much?  I know land rovers should leak,
but I would prefer to minimise it.  My transfer box and gearbox allways
leaves a two (about two-inch) puddles overnight (comes out where the
levers (?) of the leavers go in).  The transfer box seems to stop if I
disengage my free-wheel hubs.  (BTW, that's ONE use for those things
:-)  The gearbox (SIII) runs quite smooth in any kind of terrain, except
for the 2nd gear.  If I decelerate it jumps out.  All other gears are
fine, including accelerating in 2nd.  It does not really bother me,
because I rarely decelerate that much in 2nd.  But I do wonder about it
-- is there not something small-ish I could to to fix that?  (I will
leave the horn in its present non-working state to keep the
fault-equilibrium level happy.)

Thirdly, I am really unfamiliar with driving land rovers in cold
conditions.  But lately it's been really cold here.  (I know you people
have it colder, but...)  And I don't like the sound of the little truck
in the mornings when I start it up.  It just feels so...coooold.  And
then I don't drive far to work (8kms).  What can I do to make this
situation a bit lighter on the car?

And then there's the clutch to worry about too. (some other time-it
drives)

I would, off course prefer to just take the whole transmission out &
completely overhaul it and the clutch and put it back in...but alas...

Got to get some work done now... Would like to hear yur comments.
- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 1997 18:29:43 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: funny sounds in the motor

Clinton D. Coates wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> So, if it is the woodruff key etc. in the timing gear, do I just take the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> whole thingumy.  Should I re-do the water pump while I am at it
> (shipfitters disease...)?

If your planning on tackling the woodruff end, dump your oil and save it, 
( if it's worth saving ) cause your anti-freeze will drop into the oil 
pan when you remove the timing cover. Slacken off the chain tensioner and 
remove it, good time to check the thing for wear and blow it through. 
Without moving the crank or the cam, remove chain from gear on crank.Take 
a hold of the gear and give it a few twists back and forth to see if it 
is loose on the shaft, if it is, voila. If it rattles, remove gear and 
replace woodruff key. I found that the best way to do this is to clean 
the crank end and locktite the key in place. I did this because everytime 
I went to put the pully back on I ended up knocking the key off and had 
to start all over again taking the timing cover off. I also found this a 
good time to replace the front seal, even changed it around so the seal 
was able to be removed from the front rather than take the timing cover 
off. Re-assemble in reverse sequence, taking care not to disturb the 
crank and cam when fitting the chain. It's probably good idea to check 
your timing marks at this stage anyways. If the shipfitter got ya, check 
the timing chain and other gears as well. Also, check the small bi-pass 
hose and replace if need be. Better to have a new hose on it than lose 
all the green stuff down the road.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 47 lines 1979 [forwarded 192 whitespace 474]
 Output: lines 1463 [content 886  forwarded 91 (cut  101) whitespace 431]

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.