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Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 05:48:50 -0400 From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net> Subject: Oh my aching clutch I sent this once already but I havn't seen it since so her it is again...sorry if it repeats, I'm having a bit of trouble here. G’day all Well I too have been having clutch trouble. Actually been having trouble all winter but it was to cold to start into that kind of work out in the snow bank. With the nicer weather finally here it was time to effect repairs. The problem. There was a nasty grating sound coming from the bell housing when I let the clutch out and on several occasions I would lose clutch operation completely. It was great fun jumping into the 88, pushing the clutch in, turning the key and having the vehicle lurch forward into a snow bank or telephone pole. Good fun in traffic too, but most times there was just the noise. I knew something was broken and rattling around in there, but what? Well, yesterday I finally found the time to pull the engine and find out what the heck was going on. Now I know I only had to move the gearbox back to do the clutch but I had several other things to fix on the engine so out it came. When I removed the clutch pressure plate out dropped the driven plate and two of the driven plates six springs. The remainder of the springs were all bent up and the driven plate itself was fairly mangled as well. I was very surprised it had only given me as little trouble as it did and kept going all winter in that condition. Oh yeah, the release bearing was seizing up as well. Well, put all the new bits in, did the rest of the work to the engine and stuffed it back in. Wow! Much better. Smother and quieter and much less nerve wracking out on the road. Gee, I should have done that a long time ago. Go figure. Rover and Out Brett ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 07:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: British Cars by the Sea
Re: Going?
i was thinking about it, but their flyer asking for specific models of
Rovers was a bit offputting.
Might do it anyway, though...
ajr
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]Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 08:20:13 -0400 (EDT) From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott) Subject: Solex Carb question Hi all... My carb is giving me some problems. While the engine is running (2.25) everything is fine, as soon as I shut the engine down the carb begins leaking petrol from the throttle shaft... Seems to me that this is kinda weird because for the petrol to leak wouldn't there have to be pressure in the carb to push it out from that location??? This is about the only problem right now keeping me from safetying the little beast. Thanks for the replys... Keith 1961 Ser. II 88" 206.51.251.98 (Home page with some pics of the rebuild) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 06:09:13 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Dragging clutch At 7:24 PM 5/25/97 -0700, Greg Moore wrote: >Actually it's time I asked the advice of the more enlightened members on >the list for help with this one. I can still remember, in vivid detail, ;the last time the tranny was out - I started out looking at the speedo >cable, ended up pulling the O/D and shipfitters had a firm grip from ;there on in - so I don't think a worn disk or pressure plate is part of >the equation. I've always bled the system regularly so, again, this is a ;non-issue. The return spring on the pedal is strong and properly ;installed. The clutch functions fine, no dragging or slipping, but when ;at rest the pedal is about 1/2" from the stop. While this has no effect ;functionally it's really bothering me - to the extent that I ;instinctively pull the pedal up the remaining 1/2" after every shift. A ;friend has suggested a bent master or slave cylinder push rod but I ;can't see this as it was fine a few months ago and nothing catastrophic ;has happened in the interim. I'm leaning towards a weak return spring in ;the master cylinder. ; ;Any and all comments are appreciated. ; ;Cheers, Greg Greg, you didn't state if the car were a series II or III. The spring that goes between the pedal arm and the underside of your insturment panel are supposed to keep the clutch pedal at full height. There are adjustments within the pedal box that will alow you to set "full height" This might be a good time to review tht section in your factory manual. Also don't forget you do have that removable plate that you can look through. Just the weight of the pedal on the master cylinder may remove all the slack in your system and cause the throwout bearing to ride lightly on your clutch. The end result is premature throwout bearing wear. TeriAnn Wakeman For personal mail, please start subject line Santa Cruz California with TW. I belong to 4 high volume mail lists twakeman@scruznet.com and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks A citizen of the internet community since 1986 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 09:17:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: How many cylinders do you need? On Sun, 25 May 1997, Clinton D. Coates wrote: > poHh, poHh sounds when running) before I figured out the stuck valve, I > systematically pulled off each spark plug wire. Damned if the truck wont > run on 1 cylinder! Hmmm... Have to try that! My two cylinder efforts were helped by a cracked head and block between two and three. If you are interested in seeing the extent of the, er, blowby, check out the picture of the green beastie with the head gasket on - http://204.119.251.4/OVLR/Events/Birthday_96/friday.html We turned the gasket into an award up here. "Gasket Under Glass" Goes to the person who managed to have a running or functional vehicle against all odds. Kind of a "I can't believe it actually ran" type of award. Spencer Norcross would have had it last year hands down, but he already had won the Lugnut Award! ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 09:29:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Successful Import
From: shawn@bioserver.vsb.usu.edu (Shawn Swaner):
The bottom line is that importing a 25+ year old vehicle from Canada was a
whole lot less involved than I was anticipating. If anyone wants more
details,
email me. Many thanks to Bill, Dixon, Slade and others who provided
excellent
information.
I brought a 1963 P5 across from Toronto last November. No problems at
all. And I had forgotten the bill of sale! So even with no proof of ownership
(not recommended), it was about a 20 minute affair. I took along a book and a
sandwich, just in case. Even with a '84 Saudi spec RR as the tow vehicle.
Just pay the duty and go. Just everyday business...
see 'ya on the old road...
jim '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs, (econobox?) "Nicky"
Liliesville, Vt.
LR.....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!
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]From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 09:30:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 2 Litre ->2000 motor swap? From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool): Now that I actually typed "2-liter F-head lump" I'm reminded of a fairly slick and potentially inexpensive way to get more power and keep it Rover. Use the overhead-cam 2-liter engine from a Rover 2000 saloon. Bolts right up, so I'm told, as it was based upon the same block as the F-head engine. Is this only applicable to Series vehicles that had the 2 litre in them as original? Or is the bolt up possible with later trans? see 'ya on the old road... jim '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs, (econobox?) "Nicky" Liliesville, Vt. LR.....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 15:39:01 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Koenig PTO Winch Questions Hello John! :) Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 00:43:05 -0500 :) From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net> :) :) I'm hoping that some of you with Koenig PTO winches can help me out with my :) installation on my Series III. My first question is how does the drive :) shaft fit between the frame and the bellhousing!? There appears to be not :) enough room between the frame and the (I believe) clutch slave cylinder! On my SIIA the drive shaft is on the left side and the clutch slave cylinder is on the right side of the bellhousing. Have a look to http://unix.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.winches.koenig.html There are the original Manuals and Installation instructions available. :) In the process of stripping the winch down for a thorough cleaning,.... Sorry, I never stripped the winch. -- Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think.... Homepage: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 07:07:46 -0700 From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca> Subject: ticking sound in engine Hi, Well, the head gasket seems to be holding and the truck runs rather well now. However, there is a ticking sound from the motor. I used a stick (actually the crank handle) to listen along the top of the head. It is a sharp metallic ticking sound that gets gradually louder from the rear to the front of the motor. Is this a sticking valve again? Or a tight valve? I just tested the clearances and they were all right on. Or is this just the sound of properly adjusted tappets clattering against happy little valves? Clinton ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca> Subject: Re Dual Gauge Details Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 10:37:00 -0400 The temperature bulb of the mechanical gauge is filled(part filled) with a fluid (Alcohol, Ether ) and measures the temperature by a pressure gauge responding to the vapour pressure above the liquid as it is heated. The calibration of the gauge depends on what it was originally filled with. You could try using your own fluid say rubbing alcohol or quick start fluid (Ether) then calibrate using a water bath and immersion thermometer. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 11:58:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Chasing Horses in LR vs J**p GC Hi all, I spent most of Sunday afternoon chasing loose horses (others not ours for a change) around the countryside. Initially out in the LR, and then later in the J**p GC (the 5 year old had had enough bouncing off the door and head jerking). All horses were found without serious incident however, I made some of the following observations: 1. LR is great through narrow areas and up steep banks/ditches 2. The 2.25 L engine and SIIa transmission is really designed exquisitely well to travelling on very rough, washed out roads, fields and steep terrain (4lo is a the easiest driving I've done it the LR) However, 3. I did note that traversing along the side of hills, the narrow axle width feels significantly less stable than the GC's wider axles (no surprise there). With the hardtop and unladen roof rack (on 16 rims), how steep of a hillside can one traverse (at relatively good speed--10-15 mph in 2nd 4lo) with out worry of tipping, remembering that the occasional rock and rut will be driven over. At 15-20 degrees, I was feeling a bit nervous, but is this well below the critical angle? ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 10:05:40 -0700 From: "Mark L. Freeman" <mfreeman@murlin.com> Subject: Solenoid for Starter, 2.25 Diesel Shaun Fisher, If there is a good starter shop that does commercial vehicle staters in PMB (?) you can take your starter in and ask for a new solenoid. Lucas supplied starter motors to many farm tractor manufacturers; Massey, David Brown, IHC and many of the parts interchange. A few years ago I had a starter drive and solenoid installed at a little starter shop in north Alabama, took less than one hour and cost $40. Be advised, you may not want to say that your starter is off of a British 4x4 truck, my experience is that the more exotic the repairman thinks the part is, the more likely it is that you will help him make his next boat payment. Regards, Mark Freeman 1975 109 (presently w/o engine) 1974 88 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 11:58:07 -0500 (EST) From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us> Subject: Capstan winch procedures. Hi folks- I sent the following directly to Steve, and then realized that if I share my ignorance publicly, a more informed person may be able to confirm my guesses or gently correct them. >I read somewhere that you must stop the engine to engage the dog-clutch, which makes sense I suppose. Is this true? >When using the winch, do you have to set it running, then attach the rope, or do you pre-load it and then engage the drive? Hi Steve- Since my project is incomplete, I can't give you any "actual experience" advice, but here are some excerpts from the part of my series II manual that covers optional equipment: <snip> The front capstan winch, designed for a maximum pull of 2,500 lB.is mounted on the front bumper and driven directly from the engine crankshaft... must be used with the engine running at 600 RPM... It is used with one end of the rope attached to the vehicle being pulled, then wound twice round the bollard, and with the winch drive engaged, the operator maintains a steady pull on the free end of the rope, thus causing it to grip the bollard... The most suitable rope size and type is 1-/14 in. dia. , 3-3/4 circumference Manila... Rope Speed is 12-3/4 ft./min. at 600 engine RPM... The drive knob should be engaged or disengaged by means of the operating knob on the winch casing, with the engine stationary and without any load on the rope... Provision is made for the engine starting handle to be applied to the front of the winch instead of at the dog on the crankshaft... <end snip> It took me a few moments to realize that the idea of a bollard is that the rope doesn't actually ever really "wind up" on the bollard, but rather you continue to pull it out on the other side of the two wraps so that you can release the tension without stopping the capstan. The two loops are supposed to slip on the bollard until you pull on the free end, which then increases the friction enough to "engage" the bollard to the rope. Theoretically, you can then release your pressure on the free end, and the bollard begins slipping inside the rope again. I think I'll practice a few times before I do this in public. If the incoming rope ever wraps *over* the existing loops, you have to bolt for the engine off switch before your vehicles crunch together, or a "the gods must be crazy" scene ensues. (Could be pretty darn embarrassing at best, and fatal at worst. This is one of those situations where ever wrapping the rope around your hand or standing on the loose coils would be ***reeeeeally stoooopid***) When I get a chance, I'll scan the manual page that I quoted from and add it to the web page. I'll notify you via E-Mail when I do that. -NickF Nick Fankhauser |Wayne County Information Systems Department NickF@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco http://www.infocom.com/~nickf ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 19:07:04 +0200 From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: ticking sound in engine Clinton D. Coates wrote: > Well, the head gasket seems to be holding (hmmmm) and the truck runs rather well > now. However, there is a ticking sound from the motor. I used a > Clinton Hi, In my case the sound you describe became a loud ticking sound in about 2 weeks, also at the front of the engine. On investigation I discovered that the head gasket had blown between cylinder 1 and 2 and the cause were a couple of cracks in the cylinder head. I just put in a new gasket and it has driven well since, and I hope it'll be well untill I have a diesel to replace it. However I hope this is not the case for you.... Best Wishes, Floris Houniet 109 sIIa 1969. Houniet@xs4all.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 19:23:16 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>) Subject: re: It keeps going and going.. Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net> Wrote: > What is it about these vehicles that you can just keep driving them with > ailments that would have sidelined a lot of other cars. Have to agree with you Brett. There was a spate on the list back in Jan / Feb with some LRO's bashing their faithful steeds with words like 'unreliable' and 'untrustworthy' amongst other heretic comments. I say that given the proper preventative maintenance and the odd half shaft or two, despite their age, they must be more reliable than some modern day 4X4's. Given that most things built by Solihull are still here whilst the rest will be languishing in the heavenly scrapyard in 10 years time, I think the old beasts deserve a little more slack. Mine's 21 and (was) going strong as a daily driver. (Not driving now due to enforced separation). Donning my asbestos mutande as I write..... :-) Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) Subject: Stupidity at the Third Puddle Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 17:33:16 GMT Yesterday Bob Virzi and I went to the off-road area in Templeton Massachusetts. Neither of us had been there before and all we had was directions from the rec.autos.4x4 newsgroup. The weather was drizzling. We found green lanes, water crossings, dirt trails, sand hills and two washed out areas that looked too challenging for us. The only company was dirt bikes and quads. As we were trying to find our way out without going up the large sand hill we just descended and repeating the water crossing which seemed harder in the reverse direction we came upon a trail which led in the right direction. There were several puddles which we crossed easily. I was in front and stopped at the third to study it. It had a film of oil on the water. It was deeper than the others. The bottom was a bit softer than the others. I pressed on about 15 feet. Then the soft bottom stopped further movement. Though his blood pressure must have jumped when he saw what happened, Bob got wet and got me out. Bob then asked one of the quad riders how to get out and we went home. If I had not been so stupid I would have attached the tow rope before I went in and Bob would not have gotten wet (and I would have been out in 30 seconds.) As it is I don't know if I was in the water 5 minutes or 15 minutes. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: ticking sound in engine
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 17:40:49 +0000
At 05:07 PM 5/26/97 +0000, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Clinton D. Coates wrote:
[ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Clinton D. Coates wrote:
>> Well, the head gasket seems to be holding (hmmmm) and the truck runs
rather well
>> now. However, there is a ticking sound from the motor. I used a
>> Clinton;
It may well be that the rocker shaft is in need of replacement
that would be my guess
Rgds
Steve Bradke 96 Discovery
WA2GMC 72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
68 S lla 88
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]Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 18:31:57 +0100 From: Sparkers <stevehobbs@enterprise.net> Subject: Re: Chasing Horses in LR vs J**p GC NADdMD@aol.com wrote: > With the hardtop and unladen roof rack (on 16 rims), how steep of a hillside > can one traverse (at relatively good speed--10-15 mph in 2nd 4lo) with out > worry of tipping, remembering that the occasional rock and rut will be driven > over. At 15-20 degrees, I was feeling a bit nervous, but is this well below > the critical angle? Well, I've had my Series 3 Soft top on about 30 deg before without rolling, but this was unladen, but with about 200 litres of fuel in the tanks, so C of G was low. ISTR that the Defender Tdi brochure claims 35 deg for a hard top. Can't remember if this was unladen or not though. Regards, -- Steve Hobbs. 2nd Year Electronics & Electrical Eng Student. .. Psychoceramics: The study of crackpots. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 13:53:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: British Cars by the Sea In a message dated 5/26/97 7:56:29 AM, ajr wrote: >i was thinking about it, but their flyer asking for specific models of >Rovers was a bit offputting. Asking for what types, specifically? I didn't see the flyer and am curious... did they ask for any "running on 1 cylinder" models, or "shiny, new/preferably with 4.6 badge" models? pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 14:00:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Chasing Horses in LR vs J**p GC In a message dated 5/26/97 12:03:21 PM, you wrote: >With the hardtop and unladen roof rack (on 16 rims), how steep of a hillside >can one traverse (at relatively good speed--10-15 mph in 2nd 4lo) with out >worry of tipping, remembering that the occasional rock and rut will be driven >over. At 15-20 degrees, I was feeling a bit nervous, but is this well below >the critical angle? Time for the Land-O-Meter! ;-) so you can watch exactly how far over you are when you *do* tip... I thinks speed does play a part in how much of a hill can safely be driven sideways. I'd rather be going slow as the rover heeled over; then again, I don't chase horses. pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 14:13:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Capstan winch procedures. In a message dated 5/26/97 1:05:48 PM, Nick (?) wrote: [snip] >It took me a few moments to realize that the idea of a bollard is that the rope doesn't actually ever really "wind up" on the bollard, but rather you continue to pull it out on the other side of the two wraps so that you can release the tension without stopping the capstan. The two loops are supposed to slip on the bollard until you pull on the free end, which then increases the friction enough to "engage" the bollard to the rope. Theoretically, you can then release your pressure on the free end, and the bollard begins slipping inside the rope again. I think I'll practice a few times before I do this in public. If the incoming rope ever wraps *over* the existing loops, you have to bolt for the engine off switch before your vehicles >crunch together, or a "the gods must be crazy" scene ensues. Having only seen one of these winches once, and not in action (I think it was on Sandy Grice's 88), I cannot comment directly on their operation, but I would think the manufacturer would place some form of fixed fairlead before and lower than the drum. That would keep the entry fair and safe, right? pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 15:11:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Chasing Horses in LR vs J**p GC In a message dated 97-05-26 14:04:15 EDT, you write: << Time for the Land-O-Meter! ;-) so you can watch exactly how far over you are when you *do* tip... >> Well that's easy: All the way over :0 Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 15:27:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: re: It keeps going and going.. On Mon, 26 May 1997, Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it> wrote: > Donning my asbestos mutande as I write..... :-) If you are caught spreading Nigel's Disease, asbestos might not cut it... :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 19:13:18 -0400 From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net> Subject: A bit to cocky G'day all Well there’s me all full of myself bragging about how my Rover can run with a mangled clutch or no oil in the engine or the diff full of water yada yada yada. When will I ever learn. As soon as I say things are going well, something always happens to test my patients one more time. Jumped in the beast this a.m. and it roared to life. After stopping for fuel, I turned the key to restart and…, well you can guess the rest. Let it roll out onto the street for a rolling start and had to use the hand crank to get home this afternoon. Just finished doing all the usual tests and sure enough the starter is kaput. The scary thing is, I was at a friends this weekend and he was having starter trouble and went through three units before he found a working spare. I've got to stay away from there. Unfortunately, he’s the guy I would usually go to for a loaner. Oh oh. Guess I’ll be hand cranking for a couple of days…, but at least I can hand crank. Not to many other vehicles around here that can still be used as daily drivers with the starter setting at home on the kitchen table eh?. My apologies in advance to all of you who will be posting about your own starters woes tomorrow. It’s never over in a Rover. Brett ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 19:38:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: 97 SWs/Disco from CO/Brit Bulldog I have an elusive neighbor who parks a 97 D90 in the street near my house. (I've waved, said hello, etc., but he must think I'm driving a Hum**r or sumptin') It is the only production 90 SW Auto I've seen on the street and I have questions... 1. Do 97 SWs come with side steps as standard equipment? 2. Are all roof tops white (regardless of body colour)? 3. Re: the hatch on top. Why is it so far back from the windshield, not more centered? 4. I had another, but I forgot. ******* Next: There's a white disco with Colorado tags here that someone must know. It has a good rack up top with a spare wheel bolted down, a Warn X9000i (?) winch and some other off road goodies. It is in Miami Beach quite often. Anyone know whose it is? ******* Finally: Just got a flyer from British Bulldog Spares Ltd. (How do all these people know I drive a rover?) Has anyone dealt with them? Any opinions? It seems their parts aren't LR Original Parts, some Part Numbers don't look like LR's... Thanks, pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 17:36:47 -0700 (PDT) From: bfinley@awinc.com (BRYCEFINLEY) Subject: how do you istall rear jump seats? Does anyone know how or if individual rear jump seats can be installed in a '67 NADA station wagon? ************ (herewith a longer explanation for those with internet time to burn...) I have two of seats I'd like to install on the right-hand side, but when I lay them out, it looks like the hump of the wheel well will make the front seat back (and bottom) elevated on one side, or I'll have to use a spacer on the other. Then the second seat would have to be put up on spacers too or else be an inch or so lower than the other one. But that's not its only problem. When I put the next seat back beside it, it kind of interferes with the housing that covers the fuel filler spout. The seat bottoms follow a continuing story. The front one is too high if mounted up on the wheel well bump. The back seat bottom interferes with a square metal pipe riveted down to the side of the box (there is an identical one on the other side directly beside the lid of the built-in tool box. Are these seats meant for this car? Can they be installed in some way that is close to an original placement? Some people have told me NADAs probably came only with rear bench seats. What's that square pipe I talk about above? Should I go look at how they are installed in an 88" I know of, not too too far away? Thanking you in advance for any and all information... Bryce Finley idea@bigfoot.com Christina Lake, British Columbia, Canada (LR '67 Ser IIA 109" NADA 6) ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 22:56:45 -0400 From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson) Subject: British Cars by the Sea I plan to be there. I attended last year, even though all I had was a rolling chassis, a heap of parts, and a few photographs. John Karlsson Hope Valley, RI 1966 IIa 88 SW, "Ned" ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 23:31:54 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: PTO Capstan winches - info wanted > I want to get a PTO type capstan winch for my Series 3. If anybody has one for sale in the UK, let me know. > Also, I'd like to know a few things about them: > 1) How do the starter dog types attach? Can the starting handle still be used? > 2) Does fitting a gearbox PTO type require dismantling the transfer box? Is this a dealer only job? > 3) Is a new front bumper needed, and if so, how easy is it to change? All the capstan winches I'm aware of drive off the front of the crankshaft. A dog with straight slots replaces the dog with ramped slots used with the crank handle. A crank handle can be used. It now engages into the winch, and assuming the winch is engaged to the crank shaft the motor turns. Otherwise you just slowly turn the crank. A shorter crank handle was originally furnished with the winch. The original bumper is retained with a few new holes added. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 07:15:49 -0500 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Re: LR One Ton's 109's Hi All, Well I guess my Dad's wheels must have been off another LR. His LR is a 2.25 engine but was a pickup when we got it. I understand that the rims are now available new. Thanks, Rob Davis_chicago ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard L. Ziegler" <rziegler@sover.net> Subject: Clutch pedal not returning all the way Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 01:26:08 -0400 Greg, If you were to pull the pedal up by hand the last 1/2 inch does it give much resistance? If it is maybe you just have to lubricate the pedal pivot. On the left side (as it sits on the vehicle and as if you were sitting in the L/R facing forward) is a capscrew that can be removed from the pivot and replaced with a right angle grease nipple. 1/4 inch threaded grease nipple will do it. (This is done by removing the mud shield under the fender to gain access.) Pump grease into it and work the pedal. While you are at it also do the brake pedal. The spring inside the master cylinder does not have enough strength to hold up the pedal by itself. It needs the action of the spring outside (under the dash) to help hold the pedal up. To prove this to yourself, on a good working pedal unhook the outside spring and you will find that the pedal will not return fully. Happy Rovering, Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic '63 88 SIIA pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT pet. daily driver '73 88 SIII pet. (awaiting chassis) Rutland, VT. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 21:36:35 -0400 From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net> Subject: Oh my aching clutch G’day all Well I too have been having clutch trouble. Actually been having trouble all winter but it was to cold to start into that kind of work out in the snow bank. With the nicer weather finally here it was time to effect repairs. The problem. There was a nasty grating sound coming from the bell housing when I let the clutch out and on several occasions I would lose clutch operation completely. It was great fun jumping into the 88, pushing the clutch in, turning the key and having the vehicle lurch forward into a snow bank or telephone pole. Good fun in traffic too, but most times there was just the noise. I knew something was broken and rattling around in there, but what? Well, yesterday I finally found the time to pull the engine and find out what the heck was going on. Now I know I only had to move the gearbox back to do the clutch but I had several other things to fix on the engine so out it came. When I removed the clutch pressure plate out dropped the driven plate and two of the driven plates six springs. The remainder of the springs were all bent up and the driven plate itself was fairly mangled as well. I was very surprised it had only given me as little trouble as it did and kept going all winter in that condition. Oh yeah, the release bearing was seizing up as well. Well, put all the new bits in, did the rest of the work to the engine and stuffed it back in. Wow! Much better. Smother and quieter and much less nerve wracking out on the road. Gee, I should have done that a long time ago. Go figure. Rover and Out Brett ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Zeniths Carbs, and a trip to the Peak District Date: Tue, 27 May 97 9:59:54 BST Well, returned from my little holiday in the Peaks. As I passed through Matlock, I popped in on Paddocks. They have a lot of signs on the outside, don't they? (NOT - if the sarcastic negative is still in vogue). On Sunday, my father and I rebuilt the Zenith. Well, not much of a rebuild, but we replaced the O-ring - it seems to have stretched, but whether it needed replacing, who knows? Also, the "economy device". This had fuel *above* it - ie. in the vacuum circuit. We think it leaked around one of the gaskets, but its a bit hard to tell. This is the most likely. Anyway, everything seemed fine on Sunday, and the exhaust much cleaner. Yesterday, I drove it back from Leeds down to Crawley, via Kings Lynn. Probably its best long-distance run for a very long time and good fuel economy, although there was plenty of heavy traffic around Kings Lynn (10 miles in one hour - Whitsun Bank holiday - doh!) Then this morning, I tried to start her for work. I little touchy on the choke (I now need it, as I'm no longer running rich). Can get her started, but she stalls as soon as I touch the peddle!! She was fine when I parked her on the drive lastnight! I'm guessing that a link or something has come undone on the journey down, so she won't run properly when cold. I haven't checked anything yet, but if not, I'll be screaming for help on the list tomorrow! Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Alec Diamond" <alec@telmar.co.za> Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 11:48:47 +0200 Subject: Re: Mefloquine - A warning Regarding the posting of problems taking Larium. should anyone respond regarding side effects taking this drug I would also be interested in knowing. Larium is contra indicated for any activity in which concentration is a must such as SCUBA diving. I have heard of one person that has died from either kidney or liver failure taking Larium. This was confirmed by the company that distributes the drug in SA. Regards Alec =================================================================================== #======---# Alec Diamond (If its worth doing its worth |____|__|__\___ alec@telmar.co.za SCUBA diving for) || _ \ | |_ |} Tel +27 11 883 1337 "-(_)"""""""(_)" Sunny South Africa ----^^^^^---^^^^---^^^^-^-^--^--^--^^----------------------------------------\\\\\\ 110 200 TDI Defender "Bush Baby" ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 11:20:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Capstan winch procedures.
On 26 May 97, Nick Fankhauser wrote:
> >I read somewhere that you must stop the engine to engage the dog-clutch,
> >which makes sense I suppose. Is this true?
> >When using the winch, do you have to set it running, then attach the rope,
> >or do you pre-load it and then engage the drive?
Having used my Aeroparts winch "in anger", I can offer the following
insight:
With the engine off, engage the drive-flange onto the drive-plate.
Start the engine (thus starting the winch..)
The rope comes from the target, under the roller and anti-clockwise
around the bollard (the rope is laid so that it starts at the bottom
of the drum and rides up at it spools). Depending on the amount of
"pull" required - one, two or three turns can be wound round the
bollard either at the start, or during the winching operation.
The operator stands to the right of the vehicle, holding onto the
tail of the rope (the end that comes off the top of the bollard).
If the rope is held slack, the bollard should turn within the coils
of rope and no pull occurs. If the operator tightend the rope, the
friction between the rope and the bollard will drag the rope around
the drum, pulling the winch and target together.
By careful application of just the right amount of tension, the
operator can maintain the rope in a state of "tensed slipage", ie,
the rope is under tension, but not moving.
One of the great advantages of the capstan winch is this ability of
"playing" the load - pulling the rope in and allowing the rope to be
pulled back out.
Also, the winch is a mechanical device, thus not subjected to faded
batteries.
The downside to capstan winches in general is that the engine has
to be stopped to engage the winch (the aeroparts winch has a terrible
engaging mechinism, making use of the lever to engage the winch next
to useless)
Hope this helps...
----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) Phone: +44 131 650 3027
Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
University Computing Services,
Edinburgh University.
Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
------------------------------
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