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Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 11:24:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: A bit of a time slip

On Sat, 24 May 1997, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> the sprinkling, saying such things as "they had just waxed their Land/Range
> Rovers".

	Hence why there are different lists...

> One person in the Pacific North West who recently sold a 109 and replaced
> it with a Range Rover was saying how much more he was enjoying the comforts
> of traveling, the CD changer, leather upholstry and air conditioning.

	Not to worry, it will soon be filled with tales of the plethora of
parts that will need replacing and the high cost of said items.  Comfy
yes, cheap no...  If you want comfort and something slightly reliable, a
Saab does it for me.  Off-road?  That is what a Land Rover is for.

> It doesn't seem that long ago that we had a long running thread on the
> concept of even washing a Land Rover.  

	But those left know that this need not be discussed since we all
kknow that you don't wash Land Rovers.  (well, frames and the like to get
the mud etc out yes, but the rest?  WHy bother)  You forgot that we all
miss Taylor too...  You put the plushies in flight when you vanquished
them so thoroughly!  :-)  As for Nigel, he is still cursing us all.
Numerous experiments are underway to track the extent of his evil
influence.  That such a contageon can be spread over email (good-rimes,
penpal virii have nothing on Nigel.  The Nigel virus leaps from your
screen and races to the closest mass of aluminium in speads only measured
in furlongs per fortnights with lots of those little exponential numbers
attached.  Hmmm, I wonder.  If I put a large bar or pure aluminium,
(complete with the AlCan purity stamps) next to my monitor, would that
attract Nigel<s disease rather than my poor 109?  How could we test this?
You couldn't touch the bar since you would become the carrier,
transmitting the plague to any poor rig that happened along!  )

> Feeling increasingly less relavent in todays BMW oriented society.....

	What you need to do is figure out how to mutate Nigels diease for
BMW's.  Once accomplished, a laptop, a cellular modem, a visit to a BMW
meet, and then a quick peek at a BMW mailing list looking for a message on
something bad.  You can waltz out while all the owners complain that their
ECU's have all gone wonky with the same problem all at once!

	Conclusion?  Did some <shudder> work on the 109 the other day.
(Took the sills off).  Green Beastie promptly got even.  Headlamps failed.
There is a lesson here...

	How's the threedormobile coming along?

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 10:45:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: PTO Capstan Winches

Steve- I had similar questions several months ago, and David Cockey was kind
enough to scan several manual pages and send them to me. I put them on my
web page so that others can view them now. Go to the URL listed below on the
left and follow the links. The scans are for both the fairey and aero
winches. It turns out that I was missing a few pieces, so my project is
currently postponed, but if you find any new info or a source for parts, let
me know.

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser           |Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us      |     http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 09:12:10 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: A bit of a time slip

At 10:34 PM 5/24/97 -0700, Greg Moore wrote:

>> It seems like I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention as time sliped and
>> the lists changed from old cantankerous series rigs to highly polished,
;> plushed out but very capable off road luxury cars.
>Hooooold on. Thanks to my '70 swb I'm relearning the hand signnals of my
;motorcycling days and just today I was noticing that the tops of all my
>left shoes are wearing out from pulling the clutch pedal up! CD what?
;
I didn't say anything about not keeping your car in good operating
condition.  If your clutch pedal is dragging, you are going to be pulling
your transmission soon to do a clutch job.  I use both electric signals and
hand signals because the LR's lights are small and I want the person
overhauling me at Mach 5 to realize that I'm about to close his passing
path before he becomes another statistic of cars that have impailed
themselves on my military rear bumperettes.

I love the old series rigs, but I'm a strong believer in keeping them in
good functional shape and doing repairs correctly.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

A citizen of the internet community since 1986

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 18:18:38 -0700
From: Jon Dunster <jond@chichester.ac.uk>
Subject: Landies ... What else ;-)

Hi,

I've noticed you're a Landy fan and wonder if you'd be able to
provide me with a little advice.

I had a S2A some time back and I'm intending to get back to the
fold by purchasing a 90 or 110 of around 1987 vintage (say 'D'
registered).

I've just come across one, a 90 with the 2.5ltr petrol engine,
and wonder if you'd be able to give me any hints on how to check
it over or even if the 2.5 petrol is a good model to go for.  It
has 100k miles on the clock, but most of the landys I've seen so
far have been on or around there so I presume its about average.

Many thanks for any assistance you can offer

Jon

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 14:05:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Florida rovers

I live in the next state north so therefore my Land Rover is
ex-Florida; one of the other SIIA 88's that I refferred to was from
Jacksonville, the other was residing in SC. I would like to know some
more details on these Rovers like how many were in the fleet and what
were they used for? I suspect they were used to tow bush hogs, hence
the rear PTO and massive treiler hitch that was rather crudely welded
to the rear crossmember. Again these were bright yellow 1967 88 pickups
with petrol engines, rear PTO's and motorola alternators.

Jack Walter
Roswell, GA

------------------------------

From: "Brian Cotton (bcotton@lia.co.za)" <Brian.Cotton@lia.lia.net>
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 20:29:45 +0000
Subject: GKN overload Hubs

I thought that they will be the ideal solution until I saw the cost!

They cost exactly 385 Pounds Sterling per pair !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you convert that to South African Rands you rather buy a six pack 
of half shafts !

They are ouly available for D90 and D110

An extract from thier fax to me reads"...In order to back-up our own 
test results we are currently offering to exchange used units after 6 
months in the field."

I find this slightly suspicious that they will replace the units 
after only 6 months !  Interperet as you may...

Hope this info helps

Cheers
Brian Cotton
Building a MONSTER way down in Africa

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 14:03:37 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: GKN overload Hubs

At 08:29 PM 5/25/97 +0000, Brian Cotton (bcotton@lia.co.za) wrote:
:They cost exactly 385 Pounds Sterling per pair !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
.....
:An extract from thier fax to me reads"...In order to back-up our own 
:test results we are currently offering to exchange used units after 6 
:months in the field."
:
:I find this slightly suspicious that they will replace the units 
:after only 6 months !  Interperet as you may...

 They probably want to inspect it for wear, not after failure, and make
 predictions as to their ultimate life, fast.  This info will probably be
 very helpful in determining reasonable warranty periods, as well as
 supporting any design changes.  Sounds a but pricey though.  Are they
 trying to recoup their development costs in the first dozen units sold,
 or is half going to an attorney's fund?  ;)

                         That's 'Solicitor', bloke! 
                       ______ /
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 17:42:48 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: seatcovers

Does anyone know a good source for durable seat covers that will fit over
the "Deluxe" seats on a series IIA?

Ned Heite

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 15:29:18
From: B Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: parts for sale-again

	I have given up on trying to fix my mail program. For some reason I can
not open my mail boxes. I have installed it again and it seems to be
working. For those who responded and are still interested  please email me
again.
Thanks,
Blair
p.s. Chris Dow if you could email me again with your email address that
would be great. You have dibs on the door

ood morning all,
	Well the time has come to unload on some extra parts in order to buy  a
1940 Ford pickup ( Hot Rod).  My extra time has been sucked up latley by my
new business venture ( Hot Rod Shop ) and has taken away from my quality
Rover time. It looks like things will be busy but I will now  have time and
a place to work on my Rovers .:)
	The parts for sale are:
1. 109 NADA frame- Overall decent shape . It had been sandblasted and
painted so it is pretty good.  Price-  $ 700.00 ono
2. 109 Pickup rear box- OK shape, some dents but nothing major. Price- $
500.00 ono
3. Right side door bottom- 2a door bottom good shape. Price $75.00 ono

	Email me if you are interested. All the parts are located in SLO so you
will have to figure out how to retrieve it. 
	Rover on,
		Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover
1972 Land Rover 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 19:37:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: parts for sale-again

How "good" is the door bottom?   Are there any dents?

Thanks,

J. Small
66 IIA SWB

jsmallals@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 16:45:39 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: land rovers in winter

I drive my land rover all year around without too many problems.  It only 
 starts getting really cold down around -30 celsius or so.  Once while 
driving from Prince George to Ft. St. James, it was about -45 out with a 
howling gale, and it was *COLD*.  So cold that the clutch pedal would get 
stiff and mushy.  I would stop every few miles and let the truck warm up 
a bit and after about 2 minutes, the heat from the motor would get the 
clutch mechanism loosened up a bit.  Oh, and there is a lot of creaking 
in cold weather.  Some ideas.

1) Get good antifreeze
2) Install a block heater or lower rad hose heater and use it when it 
gets down below freezing
3) GET A KODIAK HEATER or something equivalent, and make sure it works
4) Install a block heater or lower rad hose heater and use it when it 
gets down below freezing
5) You might try a synthetic lube in the engine, diffs and tranny
6) Install a block heater or lower rad hose heater and use it when it 
gets down below freezing
7) Try to track down any major air leaks into the cabin and plug them
8) Install a block heater or lower rad hose heater and use it when it 
gets down below freezing
9) Insulation is a good idea.  Especially the roof.  I used carpet 
underlay then a grey vehicle carpet that looks pretty nice.  Next time, I 
would use that blue ether foam camping pad stuff instead of the underlay.

Oh, and did I mention installing a block heater or lower rad hose heater 
and use it when it gets down below freezing?  Even if your motor will 
start in cold temperatures, it will be very happy with you if you can 
start it warm, and it will last longer.  A couple of times I have been 
doing jobs out in the bush where I had to leave Emerson for up to 10 
hours at -20 or so.  To get him started I would squirt some gasoline into 
the air cleaner, walk three times around the truck clockwise, genuflect 
to the west, pat the right fender three times then start him up.  Once he 
caught, he would run very rough for a minute or two until the hot spot 
under the carb warmed up.

Good luck

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 16:57:35 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: How many cylinders do you need?

TeriAnn wrote

"...What ever happened to Dixon discussing the importance of having all 
four cylinders actually functional?..."

When tracking down the last head problem on Emerson (poHh, poHh, poHh, 
poHh, poHh sounds when running) before I figured out the stuck valve, I 
systematically pulled off each spark plug wire.  Damned if the truck wont 
run on 1 cylinder!

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 17:01:54 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Series I 80" approximate value?

Steve finds a '51 Series one...

"I came across an 80"...a project vehicle to be sure... like I need another 
one...

Any idea of what it's worth?"

Steve, that truck is worth absolutely nothing at all.  And BTW, where is it 
exactly....

I am paying 500 bucks for the '51 SI I found.  It is in one piece and the 
motor still runs.  It is all there, but the body is beat up a bit and the 
frame will need some welding.  If you can get it for 500, run to the bank 
machine.  Probably 1000 would be ok as well?  Anyone else on the list have 
ideas?

Have fun!

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 17:03:40 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Washing

I wash my truck every time I go play in the mud, and at least once a week 
during the winter...underneath with the pressure wash.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 17:09:36 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Value of stolen LR

Tough Luck Tom!

Perhaps you should phone up Alan Simpson at Rover Works in Summerland.  
He talks with ICBC quite a bit about the value of series LRs.  He also 
could help you with that motor.

Phone:  250 494-0646

Everything considered, it sounds like you have (had?) a pretty nice truck 
 which needed a new engine.  FWIW, I bought my LR from him 3 years ago 
for 11k and he figures if it was totaled, ICBC should give me about 5-8 
thou for it (it is a pretty straight truck).

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 17:19:35 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: A bit of a time slip

At 11:24 AM 5/25/97 -0400, Dixon Kenner wrote:

>        How's the threedormobile coming along?

The rear interior is almost complete.  I just got the rear headliner parts
installed and the door latches mounted on the second tall cabinet.

Looks nice untill I start seeing what the cabinets will fit.  I'm going to
put a single shelf in the original Dormobile cabinet.  Sleeping bag and
pillow storrage will take up the whole top half of the cabinet :*(

I may get two shelves in on the second cabinet.  It looks like LOTs of
storrage until you measure the actual storage space.  Its interesting
trying to figure out how to pack for a 10 week trip.

I have the rear wiring completed.  The refrigerator is working fine, as are
the pair of florescent lamps in the back and the water pump.

I still need to get the car painted behind the front doors.  It should
happen before the end of June to get the paint time to harden.

As of about 2 weeks ago Nick finally dropped off the Salsibury rear end &
springs he picked up from British Pacific for me.  He has had them locked
up in the back for his pickup for a couple of months.

I'm still driving around on front wheel drive.  I need to find some free
time to get the work done now that I have the parts.

The seats have just been reupholstered.  I'm no longer sitting on solid
duct tape.  The arm rests were also just rebuilt.  I've cut out the door
panels from plywood, using the beat up old originals for a pattern.  I hope
to cover them soon.

My driver's side door is too badly worn to close properly and requires a
lot of jiggling to open, so a new door latch is going to be ordered soon.

I'm just tired of having the worst paint and worst interior of any LR
grouping, and if I'm going to be living in the car for a couple of months,
I want to to look nice.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

A citizen of the internet community since 1986

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 20:00:02 -0700
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series I 80" approximate value?

Clinton D. Coates wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> Steve finds a '51 Series one...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Steve, that truck is worth absolutely nothing at all.  And BTW, where is it
> exactly....
Darn,another worthless Series I...
Clinton,here's the phone number and address of the guy that was going to
convert it into a sandbox for his son before I saw it:
             {truncated by lro-lite(was 7 lines)}
;)
Steve

------------------------------

From: "Richard L. Ziegler" <rziegler@sover.net>
Subject: Clutch Problem
Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 21:12:59 -0400

Chris, ('69 IIA)
	Clutch pedal going to floor with little to no resistance and no fluid loss
means a bad seal in the master cylinder.  Specifically the small seal that
shuts off the reservoir.  Fluid not getting pumped out to slave cylinder
and you are not losing fluid from reservoir,  thus it is by-passing this
small seal.  
	If the main seal in the master cylinder were leaking fluid it would be
dripping down the back side of the pedal and landing on the driver's floor
board.  If the slave cylinder seal is leaking then the rubber boot on the
slave will be wet and fluid would be leaking onto the X-member under it. 
In both of these cases you will be filling the reservoir as fluid would be
lost.

Happy Rovering,
Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic   '63 88 SIIA pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT
pet. daily driver '73 88 SIII pet. (awaiting chassis)
3 Hill Pond Road
Rutland, VT. 05701-3741
802-773-1585

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 19:24:01 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: A bit of a time slip

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

Greg Moore wrote:
> >...and just today I was noticing that the tops of all my
> >left shoes are wearing out from pulling the clutch pedal up!

> If your clutch pedal is dragging, you are going to be pulling
> your transmission soon to do a clutch job.

Actually it's time I asked the advice of the more enlightened members on
the list for help with this one. I can still remember, in vivid detail,
the last time the tranny was out - I started out looking at the speedo
cable, ended up pulling the O/D and shipfitters had a firm grip from
there on in - so I don't think a worn disk or pressure plate is part of
the equation. I've always bled the system regularly so, again, this is a
non-issue. The return spring on the pedal is strong and properly
installed. The clutch functions fine, no dragging or slipping, but when
at rest the pedal is about 1/2" from the stop. While this has no effect
functionally it's really bothering me - to the extent that I
instinctively pull the pedal up the remaining 1/2" after every shift. A
friend has suggested a bent master or slave cylinder push rod but I
can't see this as it was fine a few months ago and nothing catastrophic
has happened in the interim. I'm leaning towards a weak return spring in
the master cylinder.

Any and all comments are appreciated.

Cheers, Greg - who'd still rather have problems of this ilk than 	be
wondering what's causing an 'engine' light to compete 	with a map light
for attention on a lonely backroad where 	the only thing British the
local parts outlet has heard of 	is Mr. Bean!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 21:41:31 -0400
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: It keeps going and going...

Hi again

I was just thinking about how my 88 ran most of the winter and well into
spring with a disintegrating clutch plate and how it should have packed
it in a long time ago, but it just kept going. What is it about these
vehicles that you can just keep driving them with ailments that would
have sidelined a lot of other cars.

Lets see, I’ve had a piston ring break and a piece of the ring come up
the side of the cylinder and embeded in the top of the piston. It kept
going. When I had time, I pulled the head, removed the little piece of
ring and put the head back on and it kept going. When I was finally able
to do the rings I found one of the pistons had melted on the side and
there was a large hole in it. Never would have known it was there, it
was running so well.

I once drove for about 1500 miles with the rear diff completely full of
water because I put to much trust in my raised axle breathers. Still
running the same diff today but I keep an eye on the oil versus water
level now.

My Rover has run with an almost non existing gap in the point and the
only problem was an erratic idle.

I actually managed to drive 12 miles with no oil circulating in the
engine before the ol’ 2 ¼ seized up, another victim of the backwards
spin on oil filter adapter blues (got me twice if the truth be known…,
kind of a funny story). New big end and con-rod bearings and it’s run
fine since.

A friends engine was running fine but he was never able to set the valve
clearances so they lasted any length of time. One drive around the block
and they were ticking away again. He finally pulled them apart and found
the tappet rollers and slides unbelievably worn. The roller were no
longer round, they were eight sided, and had deep grooves worn into
them. They were quit a site.

Tough vehicles these. They will take a lot of abuse. Anyone else have
stories about Land Rovers that refuse to quit?

Brett

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 22:36:22 -0400
From: "Brian Cramer" <defender@uscom.com>
Subject: British Cars by the Sea

Anyone going to the British Cars by the Sea show this coming weekend at
Waterford, CT? 

Cheers,

Brian Cramer
(888)434-4678 office
(609)273-9708 home
'94 D90 (#1251)
'90 RR County
'73 SIII SWB

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 20:31:03 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Series I 80" approximate value?

Clinton D. Coates wrote:
> snip
> If you can get it for 500, run to the bank
> machine.  Probably 1000 would be ok as well?  Anyone else on the list have
> ideas?

I'd say that's pretty close.  FYI in the last year this is some personal data

$1500, '51 80", Non runner LHD, moderately battered LH bodywork, seized tranny, odds
and ends in mixed state, generally good

$2500, '51, 80" Partly disassembled but reputed runner, LHD, decent body work with full
top.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 May 1997 22:56:27 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: LR One Ton's 109's

Hi All,
 Well I have been looking at my Dad's 109 & it seem's to have one ton
rims(deep offset)  I have read that in 1968 only 20 were made.  How can
I tell if this is really a one ton 109?  the springs seem to be standard
109 springs.  Is there something in the vin number?

Regards,
 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: "Shaun Fisher" <FISHERS@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date:          Mon, 26 May 1997 07:54:52 
Subject:       Re: It keeps going and going...

> Hi again
> I was just thinking about how my 88 ran most of the winter and well into
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> vehicles that you can just keep driving them with ailments that would
> have sidelined a lot of other cars.
 
> Brett

Well it is a Landie is'nt it.  This is what I like about a TRUE Landie

Shaun Fisher
SERIES IIA BOOZMOBILE
 

------------------------------

From: "Shaun Fisher" <fishers@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 08:22:55 +0000
Subject: Starter motor

Hi 

I wonder if anybody out there in SA Preferebly near PMB knows where I 
can get hold of a solenoid for a starter motor from a diesel 2.25.

I nead one soon. It is pure HELL not being able to drive my Landie.

Shaun Fisher
SERIES IIA BOOZMOBLE

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: tw: A bit of a time slip
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 18:50:00 +1000

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

>It doesn't seem that long ago that we had a long running thread on the
>concept of even washing a Land Rover

Today I came across an old (1976) Aussie 4WD magazine with an
advert for SIII LR.  The ad shows a Landie splashing through a water
crossing and the text says "Wash the Car this Weekend"

I'll have to send it to Dixon Kenner for his web page.

Regrettably, my wife insists I wash "her" Rangie after I bring it back
all muddied up.

Regards

Ron Beckett
'87 Rangie 4.8L auto

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Clutch Problems Spreading!!
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 18:50:00 +1000

>Look for the wet spot first or you'll be rebuilding the slave
>for sure :-)

Gee, my slave always complains about the wet spot, too!

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 05:16:07 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: LR One Ton's 109's

At 22:56 97-05-25 -0500, you wrote:

>Hi All,
> Well I have been looking at my Dad's 109 & it seem's to have one ton
-rims(deep offset)  I have read that in 1968 only 20 were made.  How can
>I tell if this is really a one ton 109?  the springs seem to be standard
>109 springs.  Is there something in the vin number?
-
The 1-ton models all had 6-cylinder engines and were all pick-ups. There was
a special batch of 4-cylinder built in 1970-71. To my knowledge, they were
all pick-ups. They had a lower ratio transfer box in order to cope with the
huge tires. I am not sure, but I think that they have the military shackles,
which are longer than the standard ones. Accirding to James Taylor, there
was 286 1-tonnes built between 1968 and 1971, with serial numbers starting
with 229, 222, and 223. 

My Nada also have deep offset rims (Now fitted on Rudolp) They have the same
width as the standard 109 16" rims, they just have a different offset. The
vehicle is of 1968-69 vintage being one of the last Nadas built. The year 68
is stamped on the wheels. It is possible that your dad's 109's rims came
from the parts bin. The part number on the wheel is a military part number,
as I've been told. What was going on at Soloihull at the time is a mystery. 

Hope this helps, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 12:29:35 +0000 (GMT)
From: "VRIES DE J.W." <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Subject: Re: oldest III on the list

Hi all,

Todd wrote: 
> On another note, I was curious to know if I have the oldest SIII on the 
> list. My chassis number is 91100560D. Acording to LR, it was "born" 
> between 1-3 Jan 1972. Any SIII's out there older?

 My chassis number is 91900069A and according to Solihull it is born 
in September '71. It maybe not a 'real' LR but it is only put to 
gether in Spain. It is an SIII in every way, except for the gearbox 
(IIA; no syncho on 1/2 gear).

Greetings,
Jos de Vries
LR Santana 109D SW '71 
 

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