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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns33Distributor Wobble Found!!
2 twakeman@scruznet.com (T31Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap
3 Dean Meyer [Dean.Meyer@i21Building the perfect barbecue
4 Solihull@aol.com 24Re: Engine Swap
5 "Clinton D. Coates" [Cli32Re: Engine Swap
6 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven22Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap
7 lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WI21Alternative engines, cont'd
8 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven45Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap
9 Paul Hanson ["HANSONPA@"17Rear Freeze-up?
10 Michael Carradine [cs@cr35Re: Alternative engines, cont'd
11 NADdMD@aol.com 21Alternative uses to old LR bolts
12 David Cockey [dcockey@ti19Re: Rear Freeze-up?
13 David Russell [David_R@m45Frameover
14 "Peter S." [alfapete@pac34Re: Building the perfect barbecue
15 NADdMD@aol.com 24Re: Frameover


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Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 20:16:33 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Distributor Wobble Found!!

Hi all,
  Thanks to all for the suggestions to correct the wobble on distributor, 
but what the real cause was might be of interest to you all, might even 
save a complete teardown. I wasn't happy with it wobbling and ended up 
taking the 2.25 out again and tearing it down. Got all the way to the 
block and sent it in to check the cam bearings (again) and cam (again). 
All was ok but for scratches on the front cam bearing so replaced. On 
reassembly, I took my time and double checked everything. Found 2 rollers 
were not good at all and some slides were worn, so replaced all 8 tappets 
complete with new rollers, slides and guides. I wasn't taking any 
chances.Found a few nicks in the teeth of the cam shaft sprocket, in goes 
another. Woodruff key on crank/timing chain was scored, in goes 
another.Further into, and no further to the cause of, I replaced the 
rocker arm shaft cause of some wear there ( I was covering all bases). 
Finally on the home stretch, in goes the dist. gear/oil shaft and 
bearings and the little coupling between the dist. and the drive. Did you 
know that this little sucker is offset?? Did you know that if you just 
drop it in place it may not be the right way and you will probably be 
asking everyone why your dist. wobbles? It might also save some 
embarassment at 4x4 meets. " Say man, your dist is wobbling "" Yeah, its 
uhh, supposed to, uhh, shakes the water off itself when you get out of 
the river, yeah, uhhh, that's it. Does'nt yours wobble? Man , you should 
be driving a Land Rover "

Regards,

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 06:32:52 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap

At  6:33 PM 5/17/97 -0700, Michael Carradine wrote:

>At 08:19 PM 5/17/97 -0400, Solihull@aol.com wrote:
>:  This from a British Pacific newsletter I got today: "4cyl Chevy engine and
;:"Scotty" adapter for LR. 15,000 miles on rebuild. Make offer. Carla
;:(406)923-0843"  The usual caveats and disclaimers apply.
;
> This is no bargain if it is the same person I spoke to in the 408
; area code a year or two ago.  They are looking for a 2-1/4 liter
> engine tested with the same high compression as their Chevy, plus
; you doing all the work in the 'exchange'.  Their intent is to have
> you restore their truck as an original, ie collectable Land Rover.
;
>-Michael

If it's whom I think it is, They just picked up a complete engine from
British Pacific.  So they no longer need your old one.  I do not know why
they want to put in a heavier, lower HP engine that gets worse petrol
milage, that parts are more expensive and harder to find.  But as the
thread goes, its their car and they can do as they want with it.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

A citizen of the internet community since 1986

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Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 20:56:12 -0400
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Building the perfect barbecue

I met this guy from Boston who built the ultimate barbecue. He took a
Mini Mk I grille (chrome of course) and welded up 8 cam shafts as legs
(two per leg). He uses push rods as skewers (he grinded one end into a
point). The tighter mesh of the Mini grille keeps the shrimps and stuff
being barbecued from falling through as they do on a Series II grille.
He also kept the chrome surround (called the moustache) as a striking
finishing detail. The bottom is a Mini oil sump and can contain a whole
day's supply of briquets. How's that for a Hibachi?

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my Woody?"
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas"
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block"
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu"
1997 Raleigh Serengeti "The gut buster"

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 17:19:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

>> with the wheels sticking out.
>But ... it's his truck ...

Yeah, then it'd be his stoopid lookin truck!
 The issue here is, is it suitable for it's intended purpose or to show what
a lemming it's owner is.
Those motorized skateboards are just a pet peeve of mine. And *no!* I didn't
put shackles under my car to raise the rear, back in the sixties, either.
"Diamond in the back, sunroof top, diggin' th' scene....

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"  ***For Sale***
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 16:10:39 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

Another idea to be careful of.

If you swap in a chevy engine with the scotty adaptor, you will also have 
to get a 2.25 bell housing to adapt to the tranny.  Also a different 
clutch arrangement as well, I think.

Why not pull out the 2.0 L motor and the transmission and swap in a late 
2A transmission (to take the extra power from the motor) and chevy motor 
(or even a nice 2.25l motor and keep it Solihull).  If you do not make 
any unalterable changes, you could then restore the 2.0 L motor at your 
leisure. (or sell it to me! for a nominal fee, I would be happy to take 
that nasty old hard-to-get-parts-for-and-powerless-to-boot lump off your 
hands.....)

Another possible problem.  The semi floating 1/2 shafts on the S1s are 
not as simple and straghtforward to replace if broken.

Why not buy a newer truck and sell the S1 to someone who *really* wants 
one?  Perhaps a nice lightweight with a Ford V6 and salisbury diffs....

Good Luck

Clinton

PS, has anyone on this list actually tried one of those scotty adaptor 
things (as opposed to knowing of someone's third cousin's uncle's 
dentist....)?

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:58:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap

On 18 May 97 at 6:32, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> At  6:33 PM 5/17/97 -0700, Michael Carradine wrote:
> >At 08:19 PM 5/17/97 -0400, Solihull@aol.com wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> TeriAnn Wakeman         
> A citizen of the internet community since 1986

Man, this internet community thing is tough!  I'm all the way down east in 
Maine and I know all about everything that this Carla lady does in her garage, 
and I've never even met her.

voyeuristically,
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Subject: Alternative engines, cont'd
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 17:15:31 -0500

Well, I'm back at it again.  Last time I was asking about the possibility
of installing a Jaguar XK engine in a Series LR.  Now, I have found another
engine that would seem suitable, though I'm left wondering if anyone else
has ever tried this before.  The engine is the Daimler-Benz 3.0-litre,
5-cylinder turbodiesel that was used from (if I remember correctly) 1980 to
sometime during the later part of that decade in the Mercedes-Benz 300D,
300CD, 300TD, 300SD and 300GD (yes, the Gelandewagen).  The engine is
abundant as plenty of the cars are still around, very robust and
long-lived, relatively maintenance-free, cheap to run and it produces a
healthy output of torque.  I've driven these cars and the engine seemingly
would be a perfect match if it will fit.  Anyone know?  Another Benz engine
that might more easily fit in a Series engine bay is the 2.4-litre,
4-cylinder normally aspirated diesel though it is awfully slow in the MB
240D and I don't think that its characteristics would improve in a
Land-Rover.  Thanks for you thoughts.  Brian

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:11:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:/2 Engine Swap

On 18 May 97 at 20:58, Ron Franklin wrote:

> On 18 May 97 at 6:32, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> > At  6:33 PM 5/17/97 -0700, Michael Carradine wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> voyeuristically,
> Ron Franklin
> Bowdoin, Maine, USA

The lro truncation is even tougher.  see below:

At  6:33 PM 5/17/97 -0700, Michael 
Carradine wrote:

At 08:19 PM 5/17/97 -0400, Solihull@aol.com wrote:
This from a British Pacific newsletter I got today: "4cyl Chevy engine 
and
Scotty" adapter for LR. 15,000 miles on rebuild. Make offer. Carla
(406)923-0843"  The usual caveats and disclaimers apply.

This is no bargain if it is the same person I spoke to in the 408
 area code a year or two ago.  They are looking for a 2-1/4 liter
 engine tested with the same high compression as their Chevy, plus
 you doing all the work in the 'exchange'.  Their intent is to have
 you restore their truck as an original, ie collectable Land Rover.

 TeriAnne wrote:

Michael
If it's whom I think it is, They just picked up a complete engine from
British Pacific.  So they no longer need your old one.  I do not know why
they want to put in a heavier, lower HP engine that gets worse petrol
milage, that parts are more expensive and harder to find.  But as the
thread goes, its their car and they can do as they want with it.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Sigh, time for bed.

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:25:23 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Rear Freeze-up?

Last weekend I assisted a chap tow his LandRover via a front end 
"dolly".  We mounted the LR onto the dolly, strapped her down, shifted 
the transfer case and tranmission gear selector to nutral and began to 
make the 500 mile journey.  Then, after only 10 miles, the rear wheels 
froze up and we immediately stopped.  We had just come to a stop and was 
about to make our turn when it happened.  We were not traveling more 
than 10 mph.   We began to disconnect the shaft but because there was so 
much "wind up" we had to jack up the rear first to release the pressure. 
 After we disconnected the shaft, all went well.  What made the rear 
wheels freeze up?  Could the transmission have slipped onto gear?  
	Thanks in advance.
	Paul Hanson

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 18:24:28 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Alternative engines, cont'd

At 05:15 PM 5/18/97 -0500, BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote:
:Well, I'm back at it again.  Last time I was asking about the possibility
:of installing a Jaguar XK engine in a Series LR.  Now, I have found another
:engine that would seem suitable, though I'm left wondering if anyone else
:has ever tried this before.  The engine is the Daimler-Benz 3.0-litre,
:5-cylinder turbodiesel that was used from (if I remember correctly) 1980 to
:sometime during the later part of that decade in the Mercedes-Benz 300D,
:300CD, 300TD, 300SD and 300GD (yes, the Gelandewagen).  The engine is
:abundant as plenty of the cars are still around, very robust and
:long-lived, relatively maintenance-free, cheap to run and it produces a
:healthy output of torque.  I've driven these cars and the engine seemingly
:would be a perfect match if it will fit.  Anyone know?  Another Benz engine
:that might more easily fit in a Series engine bay is the 2.4-litre,
:4-cylinder normally aspirated diesel though it is awfully slow in the MB
:240D and I don't think that its characteristics would improve in a
:Land-Rover.  Thanks for you thoughts.  Brian

 A chap in Oregon put a 220 diesel in his 109.  It made a lot of racket
 sitting inside as the sound reverberated in his stripped out interior.
 He also mangled the dash with holes to the engine bay with knobs and
 switches everywhere.  When I saw it, all he talked about was putting
 a 300D in it.  He measured it and said it would fit easily, and would
 be much quieter and powerful.  Apparently the 300D is a 5 cylinder.  If
 you need a diesel, this engine is the most likely transplant in respect
 to noise, power and reliability.  They are very popular in Europe.

 Michael Carradine, Architect                        Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Unimog Network Int'l, Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA  <cs@crl.com>
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:09:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Alternative uses to old LR bolts

Hi all,

I spent the day putting in fence with a Danuser post hole digger (pto
driven--tractor not rover).  Anyway, during the process I hit a particularly
subborn rock which caused one of the shear pins to give way.

I didn't happen to have any spares of that size (1/4 inch bolt diameter at
least 2 3/4 inches long). Digging through the bin of old LR bolts found one
of the right size and length.  Finished the rest of the day using the old
bolt without any further problems.

Gives the saying "LR's first 'cuz LR's last" a whole new spin.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:19:17 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Freeze-up?

Paul Hanson wrote:
> We mounted the LR onto the dolly, strapped her down, shifted
> the transfer case and tranmission gear selector to nutral and began to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>  After we disconnected the shaft, all went well.  What made the rear
> wheels freeze up?  Could the transmission have slipped onto gear?

Parking brake self energized. At least that is what happened to me,
except it happened as soon as I tried to drive forward after loading. A
minor mystery as to why it happened then after pushing it around by
hand. Now I'm suspicous of the half shafts after the wind up.

Regards,
David Cockey

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Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:53:42 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: Frameover

Well, the back 40 has been cut, the cattle are in and the well is fixed.
Actually, the guest room is almost finished and the potting bench is done
enough. NOW I can begin my frameover. Does anyone have any suggestions on
how to proceed? I have the new 88" frame on wheels so I can move it. I was
thinking of:

-Removing the body tub and roof from the original and putting it aside for
the moment (in my neighbor's yard ;-))

-Remove the seat box and wind screen, bonnet, wings, breakfast

-Remove the firewall and foot boxes for repair

-Move driveline to new frame, replacing springs, clutch, electrical (as
needed), brakelines, etc.

-Replace firewall and foot boxes

-Replace bonnet, wings, breakfast

-Replace body tub and roof

-start it up and drive off!!

My goal is to drive it to the Mid-Atlantic Rally in the fall, cash-flow
being the main obstacle. The larger parts will be stored outside, covered
as necessary. Am I missing anything? Does anyone recommend a different
order of disassembly/assembly?

I look forward to meeting many of you at the Birthday Party!

TIA

David Russell
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 Series IIA SWB (frameover begun 18 May, 1997)
1977 FJ-40 Land Cruiser (non-running) rusted-out hulk
1996 Grand Cherokee

http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r 

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From: "Peter S." <alfapete@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Building the perfect barbecue
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:49:16 -0700

What a complete waste of good Mini parts.  Here in California those parts
are precious!
PS

----------
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Building the perfect barbecue
Date: Friday, May 16, 1997 5:56 PM

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

I met this guy from Boston who built the ultimate barbecue. He took a
Mini Mk I grille (chrome of course) and welded up 8 cam shafts as legs
(two per leg). He uses push rods as skewers (he grinded one end into a
point). The tighter mesh of the Mini grille keeps the shrimps and stuff
being barbecued from falling through as they do on a Series II grille.
He also kept the chrome surround (called the moustache) as a striking
finishing detail. The bottom is a Mini oil sump and can contain a whole
day's supply of briquets. How's that for a Hibachi?

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my Woody?"
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas"
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block"
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu"
1997 Raleigh Serengeti "The gut buster"

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 06:37:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Frameover

In a message dated 97-05-18 23:52:44 EDT, you write:

<<  Does anyone have any suggestions on
 how to proceed? >>

I did very much what you are suggesting.  However, I put the new springs on
the new chassis before moving the driveline over.  After the driveline, I
reinstalled the dashpanel (pedals throttle linkage, choke etc) then steering,
then ran new wiring loom, then new brakes and lines and put on the body
panels.

The only thing I will do differently the next time is:  Put the steering box
in FIRST then adjust the dashpanel to frame and steering box.  

Good Luck and see you at the Rally

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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