Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 07:10:35 -0400
Subject: Re: HELP!!! '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS

Simple - you have a restriction in the fluid path between the master and
slave. Odds are it's the rubber line between the metal line and the slave
cylinder that's got an internal restriction.

An easy way to check this is to open the coupling between the steel and
rubber lines - if the pedal flies to the floor, the restriction's below
that point. If not, undo it at the clutch and gently push it down with a
cup underneath to catch the clutch fluid.

This way, you can isolate where the restriction is.

The steel line could be crimped or otherwise restricted also - inspecting
it wouldn't be a bad idea.

Good luck, and tell us what it was when you find it!

                         Alan R. /Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 07:24:07 -0400
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: SIII 2.25 petrol OVERHEATED 

On my way to work this morn I noticed the temp gauge was reading just under
red.  I stopped to take a look and found I was not leaking and the overflow
tank seemed to have some juice in it.  I pressed on to work. I have no
thermostat so it can't be that I felt very little warm air from the
defroster (ops normal) and my belt is fine.  Any clues as to what it may
be?

Thanks,

Mike Johnson

end
74 SIII 88 (Chester)  179,000+
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 07:27:31 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII 2.25 petrol OVERHEATED

Check your radiator - it may well be that there's a crack in the return
line to the tank and you've been blowing coolant onto the ground instead of
recycling it.

if all seems OK other than that, it's time for a replacement voltage
regulator on the gauge cluster.....

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:27:57 -0400
Subject: Re: SER Rubber on my Shaft

Shaft size differences:

Ain't goin down that road either.....8*)

I wonder if you actually have a Series III steering box and column. it
sounds an awful lot like something else has been put in, like an older IIa
box that wasn't designed for the horn/turn signal stalk that you've got.

Something's not quite kosher here. i'd recommend a good scan of the art
numbers on the steering box itself - a lookup of tht would at least tell
you if you're in the right generation for the parts.

               ajr

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: SIII 2.25 petrol OVERHEATED
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 13:36:59 BST

> Check your radiator - it may well be that there's a crack in the return
> line to the tank and you've been blowing coolant onto the ground instead of
> recycling it.

If so, I'd have thought the leak would have been detectable when the vehicle
was stationary? Also, the radiator would be low.

 
> if all seems OK other than that, it's time for a replacement voltage
> regulator on the gauge cluster.....

Definitely worth checking.

Also, I've had these symptoms, but it was due to the radiator being 
virtually blocked - ie. poor circulation. This was with an oil cooler too!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR 2x4)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 22:52:06 +1000 (EST)
From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au>
Subject: Landys by the Seaside

Whilst discussing the suitability of a LR as a support vehicle for SCUBA
diving on another list, some disagreement was had about how well it would
stand up to a life beside the sea and full of wet diving gear.

Apart from the frame and other steel bits, will exposure to salt water
result in excessive corrosion of the Brimabright?

Dean

=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

------------------------------

From: admin_dtt.usa.hub@dttus.com
Date: Thu, 08 May 97 08:02:08 -0600
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="simple boundary" ]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 09:33:48 +0000
From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: SER Rubber on my Shaft

Paul Gussack wrote:

> OK.
> I have no rubber on my steering shaft.
>  Did I mention we're talking about the turn,horn wand on a SIII?  It seems that

...
> Paul G
> SIII SWB "Grendal"

My IIa seems to have the opposite problem than yours.  My directionals
turn on when I turn the steering wheel.  One of these days I will have
to investigate, but in a scale of 1 to 10, why should I worry about a 3
with so many 8s around?

Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 08:19:38 -0700
From: "Mark L. Freeman" <baker@murlin.com>
Subject: Parts for Duomatic Hubs and Misc. Land Rover Parts

After going through some old parts boxes I found one complete Duomatic 
hub and another hub without the outer plate or levers.  If some one needs 
them for parts, I'll gladly sell them cheap.

Also have three other items:   1) SU Siamese fuel pump from a 1967 NADA 
109, complete but condition ?  2) spedo head from 1960 109 SW.  3) 
Original Series III jack with rod and wooden handle.

Mark Freeman
1975 109 (presently w/o engine)
1974  88 petrol

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 10:32:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SIII 2.25 petrol OVERHEATED 

Mike,

You may want to consider the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo.
 Controls the voltage to the gauges (which need 10.5 volts for whatever
screwy reason).  Fire up the truck and see where the temp gauge registers.
 Then use a meat thermometer (as it has a longer probe) stuck into the neck
of the radiator in the return water stream.  See what the temp registers.
 Then turn on all lights, heater fan, brakes, etc.  See if the needle on the
gauge goes up or down (will take a bit).  If so, I'd vote for a stabilizer
over a leak somewhere.  I went thru this same thing last summer on my '73
Series 3 - rodded and flowed the radiator, replaced the temp sender,
everything.  Last possible thing was the stablizier and now its back to
normal.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: SER Rubber on my Shaft
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 00:53:00 +1000

Paul,

You may not have a LR blinker switch.  I know of at least
two different sizes were made by Lucas for different column
diameters.  I found this out when I tried to get a new switch
for my Hillman (small diameter column).  I had to take one
from a Ford Cortina (big diameter column) and change the
plugs on the ends of the wires.  (I now use a Bosch switch
from an Australian Ford Falcon XE model - with an adaptor
I turned up in the lathe).

Regards,

Ron BEckett

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 08 May 97 11:34:50 EST
Subject: Re: Transporting new frame

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
     
     >I'm about to order my new frame and have a bit of a dilemma. 
>-will it, by any means, fit into/onto my dwarfish Ford Ranger pickup?
     
     yes. that's how I carried mine from baltimore to washington dc. we 
     spanned the box of the ruck with two 5 or 6 foot 4x4's, and and laid 
     the chassis down on those. the ranger bed is like 6 or 7 feet long, 
     leaving quite bit of overhang, but strapping it doiwn tight should 
     eliminate any problems. tie a red flag onto the back so that no one 
     runs into it. we also nailed small blocks on the 4x4's just outside 
     the frame rails to keep it from sliding sideways. BTW, three people 
     can lift it, but four is better to get it up that high. use two on the 
     rear x-member end, its heavier...
     
     happy trails
     daveb
     
-should I just eat the $50 residential delivery fee and have it shipped to 
my home?
     
     how far are we talking here?
      
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 10:50:41 -0500
From: clantoc@ebs.ac.com (Chris Clanton - Via)
Subject: Late IIa Parts Needed

What's the most sought-after part for a Land Rover restoration?

If you ask me, I would say its the wire grill off of a late
IIa.  The PO on my 1970 88" went for the 4-eyed look, and I
don't have the proper wire-mesh grill to bring it back a little
closer to original.  I could default to the plastic SIII look, 
or convert to an early IIa arrangement, but I'd rather not.  

Can anyone help me out?

-cjc

               
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Christopher J.  Clanton  +   e-mail:	clantoc@ebs.ac.com
+ Andersen Consulting      +   Work:	(612) 317-7523
+ 333 South Seventh St.    +   Fax:	(612) 317-7575
+ Minneapolis, MN 55402    +   
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: Chip Mautz <cmautz@mindspring.com>
Subject: Renewed Traditions in Atlanta, GA
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 14:16:35 -0400

just wondering - anybody have any experience with "Renewed Traditions"?

they're in Atlanta and I just surfed their page earlier...

they import and refurbish all type of LR's, and build special models and =
restore vehicles to your specs...

they also have a page of prices and services...

since I'm in the market for an old restorable one, I was interested in =
this one and with all the talk of importing them yourself, I was =
wondering how they do it and sell them (i.e.-legalities, etc...)

thanks

chip

---------------------------------------

Chip Mautz
Greenbrier & Russel, Inc.
Atlanta, GA.  Branch
Consulting, Software and Education

Land Rover - the best 4x4xFar

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 08 May 97 14:22:03 EST
Subject: Re: Late IIa Parts Needed

     
     >... the wire grill off of a late IIa.  The PO on my 1970 88" >went 
     >for the 4-eyed look, and I don't have the proper wire-mesh grill
     
     this should be fairly easy to come by. I paid 35 bucks for one, came 
     w/ all the hardware and everything. If you need the breakfast you can 
     use one from a SIII with soem modification. Whats wrong with the extra 
     headlamps? It makes a great place to install some hellas...
     later
     Daveb

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 08 May 97 14:37:03 EST
Subject: Re: Renewed Traditions in Atlanta, GA

     
>just wondering - anybody have any experience with "Renewed Traditions"?
>since I'm in the market for an old restorable one, I was interested in this one
>and with all the talk of importing them yourself, I was wondering how they do 
>it and sell them (i.e.-legalities, etc...)
     
     hmm, i think 'e just answered his own question there...
     
     run away, run away....
     
     unless you like expensive headaches...
     
     DaveB.
     Arlington VA
     who has seen one of their trucks, or what was left of it anyway.

------------------------------

Date: 	Thu, 8 May 1997 08:59:12 -1000
From: Wayne R Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Koenig winch long shot

Aloha,

I have a Koenig winch powered from the front crankshaft pulley by a short
drive shaft. My problem is that somehow I managed to misplace the piece
that replaces the original starter dog, and allows the drive shaft to be
connected to the front crankshaft pulley. I know this is a long-shot, but
does anyone have that piece sitting around collecting dust somewhere? Or
alternatively, does anyone have any tips on making one up?

Mahalo,

Wayne Haight
1970 Series IIA (Kololohi)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 23:16:54 -0400
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: Re: HELP!!!  '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS

Bren & Lynne' Workman wrote:
> If you have any suggestions on how I could remedy my clutch problems,
> please help.  E-mail or read my posting on Rovers North Bulletin Board
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> '72 88" SW  "Tilly"
> '65 109" SW

------------------------------

From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:35:13 +0000
Subject: Re: SA Diplomat

 Lee wrote:
> Actually, weuns in Texas can split into about five different states,
> should we so desire.  
Texas is just lucky Alaska hasn't split into two states, that would 
make Texas the third largest state in the union!
Cheers,
Reggie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 17:44:10 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: Sighting (DC area, obscure)

4:45 EST yesterday, headed east on Knowles Ave. off Connecticut, a black
IIA or III with an eggnog (yes, eggnog) colored roof and a few children in
the back. Anybody we know?

David Russell
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 Series IIA SWB (runs great, just needs a new frame)
1977 FJ-40 Land Cruiser (non-running) rusted-out hulk
1996 Grand Cherokee--"I will be a Discovery soon"

http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:08:10 +0100
From: Sparkers <stevehobbs@enterprise.net>
Subject: Re: SER: Metric V Imperial

In message <bulk.23979.19970507191524@Land-Rover.Team.Net>
          lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) wrote:

> Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be 
> Whitworth, AF, or Metric??????
> BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. 

Well, my '84 Series3 is a complete mish-mash of whit, AF, and metric.
Newl (re)designed bits such as the 5bearing engine seem to be metric, whilst older parts such as axles and gearboxes are whit/af.

Basically, buy the most comprehensive toolset you can, even then you'll need more!

Regards,

-- 
Steve Hobbs.
.. Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 00:45:44 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: SER: Metric V Imperial

The list of spanners is not endless - you can get by with a few basics.

Peter Hirsch of this list made a useful spanner schedule last year -
here's a copt which i am sure he will be glad to see still in
circulation. My commenst to the sizes are added in brackets) -

-------- start quote lopezba@atnet.at, from lro 02.10.96 ------------

Dear all, in order to contribute something useful for a change I have 
compiled a table of spanner (and socket) sizes for the more common
metric, 
A/F, BSF, Whitworth and BA nuts and bolts.

Please remember:
Metric and A/F bolt and nut sizes are hex sizes, measured between two 
opposite flats. BSF an Whitworth are bolt diameters, measured over
threads. 
God only knows what BA sizes are. The measurements are not the hex
sizes, 
but the spanner sizes; hexes would be about 0,1 mm smaller (depending on
the 
state of my tools). Please read all commas as periods, if that makes a 
difference to you.

Size      Standard  Spanner distance in mm

6         BA         4,9
5         ISO        5,1
1/4       A/F        5,5
6         ISO        6,1
4         BA         6,3
7         ISO        7,1
5/16      A/F        8,0	(Good to have around)
8         ISO        8,1
2         BA         8,3
1/8       WW         8,7
3/16      BSF        8,7
9         ISO        9,1
3/8       A/F        9,6
10        ISO       10,1	(Dont try doing without this)
0         BA        10,5
11        ISO       11,1
7/16      A/F       11,2	(Indispensable)
3/16      WW        11,4
1/4       BSF       11,4
12        ISO       12,1
1/2       A/F       12,7
13        ISO       13,1	(Very useful)
1/4       WW        13,5
5/16      BSF       13,5	(Useful, don't confuse with a 14mm)
14        ISO       14,1
9/16      A/F       14,3
15        ISO       15,1
5/16      WW        15,3
3/8       BSF       15,3
5/8       A/F       16,0	(Awfully handy)
16        ISO       16,1
17        ISO       17,1
11/16     A/F       17,5
3/8       WW        18,1
7/16      BSF       18,1
18        ISO       18,1
19        ISO       19,1
3/4       A/F       19,2
20        ISO       20,1
13/16     A/F       20,9
7/16      WW        21,0
1/2       BSF       21,0
21        ISO       21,1
22        ISO       22,1
7/8       A/F       22,4
23        ISO       23,1
1/2       WW        23,5
9/16      BSF       23,5
15/16     A/F       24,0	(V. useful if you like changing springs)
24        ISO       24,1
1         A/F       25,6
9/16      WW        25,8
5/8       BSF       25,8
5/8       WW        28,0
(1 1/8"	  AF	    27,0)	(Handy for changing wheels)

This may help if you can't reach the correct spanner while you are
wedged 
under the car, so memorize it, please. However, the right tool is the
best tool!
Regards
Peter Hirsch
---------- end quote ------------------------------

As you can see Peter's list is long, and accurate, but there are only a
few absolutly essential sizes - the rest can be useful, but often are
the ones which you take by mistake before crawling under the car...

What is more important is having several of the same size, different
types - open ended, nut spinner, ring spanner, swivel socket, elbow
spanner, ratchet, and loose sockets in both standard and extra long
sizes.

Some - like the #10 and #11 are useful if "cut down" from a ring spanner
to make a short (approx 3 cm long) ring key, which can be used in tight
spaces, like bleeding clúthes. Sort of turns the nipple into a tap.
 
My experience says you can never have enough spanners.

good luck.

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:52:42 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Age and birthdays

There's a thread running on the rro list these days about ages.  Well, the 
Series III turns 25 tomorrow.  Had an aquaintance at Solihull look up the 
"sign-off" date, the day the factory released the vehicle to marketing.  A 
party is planned - all the 90 wt you can drink.  Cheers

200,000 miles and just gettin' broken in....

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Bryn Hackland <bryn@hackland.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Late IIa Parts Needed
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:23:22 +0100
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC5BED.469B7060" ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

They are also difficult to get hold of in the UK but I'll get back to =
you. I recently got hold of one for my vehicle but was offered several, =
so I'll see if they are still available.

What's it worth?

Bryn Hackland

SIIA LWB SW 'Bluebell'

----------
From: 	Chris Clanton - Via[SMTP:clantoc@ebs.ac.com]
Sent: 	08 May 1997 16:50
Subject: 	Late IIa Parts Needed

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

What's the most sought-after part for a Land Rover restoration?

If you ask me, I would say its the wire grill off of a late
IIa.  The PO on my 1970 88" went for the 4-eyed look, and I
don't have the proper wire-mesh grill to bring it back a little
closer to original.  I could default to the plastic SIII look,
or convert to an early IIa arrangement, but I'd rather not. 

Can anyone help me out?

-cjc

              
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Christopher J.  Clanton  +   e-mail:	clantoc@ebs.ac.com
+ Andersen Consulting      +   Work:	(612) 317-7523
+ 333 South Seventh St.    +   Fax:	(612) 317-7575
+ Minneapolis, MN 55402    +  
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC5BED.469B7060
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Steve Dempsey)
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 18:47:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Koenig winch long shot

I have heard that British Northwest sells that part. Make sure you ask
how much .   Good luck!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:59:27 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Pinion seals

Try National 473236.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:59:29 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Welding aluminium

Ran Beckett asks about "ULTRA BOND"

This stuff goes by various names, Lumiweld is one.  It was originally 
developed by NASA for bonding dissimilar metals together.  With a bit of 
practice, you can plug up .50" holes in the bottom of beer cans without 
metling the can.  The curious thing is that despite the very low melting 
point, the metal has a hardness of 55 to 60 Rockwell.  Normal drills and 
filles won't touch it.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:59:21 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Zenith, again

Adrain - Have you done the glass plate grinding trick?  It seems that Zenith 
(actually Solex now) neglected an expensive but critical heat-treating step 
in the manucature of the carbs.  After casting, the "white" metal was not 
annealed properly, so when the carb get hot at some time in the future, it 
warps.  If an new o-ring and a plugged port didn't work, then it probably 
means the that the halves have warped.

Disassemble the carb  - again :-(  - take an ordinary pane of window glass 
and some 400 or so grit carborundum paper.  The idea is to create an 
*absolutely* flat surface for grinding.  Put a spot of oil on it and grind 
the flange part of the carbs with a swirling motion.  Try to use equal 
pressure/time on the two halves.  Too much material taken off one side will 
move the o-ring off-center with obvious results.  Think *positive* thoughts 
- this WILL work!  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 20:29:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Subject: Re: Sighting

I was driving home from work and I spotted a carrier ahead of me bringing in
two D90 soft tops to the local Land Rover dealership (along with some RR's
and Disco's).  I sped up to get a better look.  One of the two D90's was the
Beluga black.  The other one was green.  Did not appear to be the same
Coniston Green as the '95s.  Of course, it was rush hour traffic and I was
driving down the highway trying to keep one eye on the road and the other on
the D90's.  Is this the same green as on the '95s?

At 08:53 PM 5/7/97 -0700, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Saw a defender 110 in Seattle on Friday, went around a corner and saw a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Lucky day,
>                                     John Cooper 1969 11a
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW

------------------------------

From: Hudson29@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:34:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Chevy V-8/ IIA Conversion

John Stiller wanted to know about a small block in a Land Rover:

 "My interest was the viability of a Chevy V8 in the rover and if an 
adaptor is available...I understand the limits of the rover 
drivetrain...how a salsberry axle would be best..and so
on...anyone out there ..been there done that before. pros and cons?? I
understand the firewall may have to be cut a bit as well.. I would appreciate
any information"

John -
	About twenty years ago, I participated in a Chevy 327 swap into a '67 IIA
LWB NADA SW. As I recall, it was a relatively easy swap. A company called
Advanced Adapters, at the time located in Santa Fe Springs CA made an adapter
to mate the Muncie 4 speed to the Land Rover transfer case. The casting was
rather porous, but it didn't seem to leak.
	We used the stock rear transfer case to frame mounts so that the drive
shafts would not have to be cut. Readily available speed shop engine mounts
were welded to the frame. The radiator needed new outlets & was recored with
an extra capacity core. It retained it's stock location and mounts. An
aluminum flex fan was fitted. The firewall had to be cut & re welded, no big
deal if you can do a little welding.
	We were originally going to make a tubing header to avoid moving the
steering box but the very radical bends necessary made us reconsider, and the
steering box was relocated sideways and the stock Chevy manifold worked fine.
The transmission tunnel and floor boards also needed to be cut to allow the
shifter clearance.
	I built the engine with a small Holly 4 barrel, a torque manifold and an RV
cam with matching valve springs. It was otherwise stock. It had so much
power, that fourth gear starts were possible with a minimum as clutch
slipping. As the gearing was stock, freeway speeds were not greatly improved.
I do not recall any figures, but mileage was abysmal.
	Comments: My brother, who owned the truck, wanted to tow heavy trailers in
mountainous conditions. He wanted to tow them with his Land Rover, and his
NADA six was sick. The conversion seemed to make sense at the time but I
would never do it now! Although we never broke an axle, diff, driveshaft
while we had it, this would certainly have happened under any heavy load.
More importantly, the Land Rover vehicle should not be wasted for such a
task! When we did the conversion, Land Rovers were expected to work for their
living. They had not achieved the sheik collector status they have now.

P.S. - Back in the early '70s a Swiss emigre in the old Land Rover Owner's
Assoc. of So. Cal. put a complete 350 Blazer drivetrain under a '71 88 SW. He
had to narrow the axles and make other extensive modifications. It was not a
clean conversion, but it suited him as he used it for hard off-roading. He
was not known as a paint polisher. I recall that he was a rather heavy-handed
fellow, and had a lot of trouble, especially with the auto trans. When I last
talked to him, he had plans to install a "tank" transmission!

Paul O'Neil
Hudson29@aol.com
'71 88 SW (still unnamed)

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:40:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: long spring shackles

Marc,

There's no real problem that I know of, in placing those miliraty shackles on
your truck, however, you'll have to make a cutout in the front crossmember,
so that the driveshafe will clear it, when the front suspension is fully
extended. The center bore/bolt is for extra strengthening. (I think)

Charles

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Whitworth, Metric and A/F Differences
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 10:46:00 +1000

Lenny (LRO list) asked about this.

There is more to this than first meets the eye.
(I'm an electronics tech not an engineer so my
explanation will be brief and non-technical).

Metric and A/F spanners (really the old SAE or newer
Unified threads) are measured across the flats of the
nut or spanner (wrench).  Metric sizes usually increment
in millimetres  whilst A/F are usually in 1/16" (note
the "usually" - I have some half-mm increment spanners.

The thread form for both Unified and Metric is *identical*
i.e. 60 degrees flank angle, with a squared off crest
and rounded root (the trough of the thread).

Both threads have identical formulae for calculating
thread height and root radius.

British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine
(BSF) and British Standard Pipe (BSP), like the Metric
and Unified threads, use common formulae (albeit different
from them).
They have a flank angle of 55 degrees with a rounded
crest and root.

Both Metric and Unified are available in fine or coarse
threads (here I'm only talking of ISO Metric not other
non-standard sizes.)  UNC = Unifified National Coarse
UNF = Unified National Fine - both based on the
original SAE threads.  (SAE - Society of Automotive or
American Engineers - not sure which.  Years ago when
engine power was quoted in BHP (SAE) denoting the
testing method, the common pun for SAE was Sans All
Everything - meaning and engine without (sans) any
ancilliary equipment e.g., alternators, mufflers etc.)
In other words, a very optimistic power output.

Whitworth is a coarse thread and well suited to
soft materials.  Fine threads shouldn't be used in
soft material e.g. aluminium.  BSF is the fine
thread equivalent to UNF and ISO Metric Fine.

As an aside, a lot of the small screws in early British
electrical items are BA (British Association) with a
thread angle of 47.5 degrees, rounded crest and rounded
root.

Whitworth spanner sizes are specified by the diameter
of the bolt not the across flats (A/F) sizes and there is
a reason behind the oddball dimensioning.  (I just wish
I could remember it!)

However, this morning I took a series of measurements of
some BSW bolts and found that the hexagon sizes were as
close as dammit to metric dimensions.  One really has to
wonder if one needs Whitworth spanners or would metric
be OK.  For example,

3/16"W - 8mm hexagon
1/4"W  - 11mm hexagon
7/16"W - 18mm hexagon
3/8"W  - 15mm hexagon

This intrigues me and I'm going to have to check more
Whitworth bolts and look into the dimensioning.

It may be that when Whitworth became British Standard
Whitworth that the standards people rationalised the
sizing.

Is anyone else interested? No?  Oh, well.

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 22:10:37 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Sighting

>One of the two D90's was the Beluga black.  The other one was green.  >Did not appear to be the same Coniston Green as the '95s...Is this the >same green as on the '95s?

Since i live about 10 min from LRNA's HQs, I take a drive by there every
so often.  In addition to some interesting vehicles, There were a few
Defenders which had new colors.  I saw Defenders painted in Rioja Red, a
metalic British racing green color which was borrowed from the RR and
Disco, i think its called Willow green? Is that the green Defender you
saw?  I also saw a station wagon painted in a metalic olive color.

Regards,
David Glaser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 19:02:30 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Strike! (was: Whitworth, Metric and A/F Differences)

At 10:46 AM 5/9/97 +1000, Beckett, Ron wrote:
:There is more to this than first meets the eye.
.....
:However, this morning I took a series of measurements of
:some BSW bolts and found that the hexagon sizes were as
:close as dammit to metric dimensions.  One really has to
:wonder if one needs Whitworth spanners or would metric
:be OK.  For example,
:
:3/16"W - 8mm hexagon
:1/4"W  - 11mm hexagon
:7/16"W - 18mm hexagon
:3/8"W  - 15mm hexagon
......
:It may be that when Whitworth became British Standard
:Whitworth that the standards people rationalised the
:sizing.
:
:Is anyone else interested? No?  Oh, well.

 Interested??  F-a-s-c-i-n-a-t-e-d!!  (Nah, NOT REALLY! ;)

 Can we, say by the year 2000, just adopt one standard and be done with
 it??  With Land Rover now being a BMW company, a unified Europe, and Hong
 Kong reverting to China, et al, let us choose metric and get on with it!!

 Car owners of the World unite!

-M "Metric Course" C                                The US is the biggest
                              'Fine' by me!       holdout to metricization 
                       ______  /                            \     
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 

------------------------------

From: Pkelly@kktv.com
Date: 8 May 1997 21:16:20 -0700
Subject: importing!!

  A little word of advice.  If the manifest shows enough parts in the
container for one vehicle or enough parts to put together the chassis in
the container then EPA and DOT will come down on you!!  If you want to
do something like this, ship the parts separately!!  Rolling frames are
becoming a problem now, since customs has caught on to this scheme.

                                        Pat

  '63 109 v-8  "road rocket"     '73 project       '72 project
  '66 dormobile another project  '88 range rover

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:04:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Wrong name?

<<It will be held from 10-4 on saturday May 10 at Chateau Elan just west of
I-85 at exit 48 (about 35 miles NE of the I-285 x I-85 interchange).>>

No.... not Chateau Elam.. that's in Phoenix ;-)

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:04:31 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Strike! (was: Whitworth, Metric and A/F Differences)

> Can we, say by the year 2000, just adopt one standard and be done with
>  it??  With Land Rover now being a BMW company, a unified Europe, and Hong
>  Kong reverting to China, et al, let us choose metric and get on with it!!

I don't get it.

Every auto company that I know of is 100% metric. Only old stuff still
being produced is non-metric. The US auto industry has been designing in
metric for 20 years or so.

Are you proposing we should change every fastener and re-machine parts
on our LRs to be all metric?

Genuine LR engine mounts are now metric, which I find annoying. It
introduces a third system onto my SII.

BTW, the BA system is defined in metric units.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:10:51 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Landys by the Seaside

> Whilst discussing the suitability of a LR as a support vehicle for SCUBA
> diving on another list, some disagreement was had about how well it would
> stand up to a life beside the sea and full of wet diving gear.
> Apart from the frame and other steel bits, will exposure to salt water
> result in excessive corrosion of the Brimabright?

Theory:
Steel, aluminium and salt water create a reasonable battery. The
aluminum will migrate towards the steel and a hole surrounded by white
powder will be left; galvanic corrosion.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 01:10:47 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: importing!!

>   A little word of advice.  If the manifest shows enough parts in the
> container for one vehicle or enough parts to put together the chassis in
> the container then EPA and DOT will come down on you!!  If you want to
> do something like this, ship the parts separately!!  Rolling frames are
> becoming a problem now, since customs has caught on to this scheme.

Out of curiosity, I'm completley broke at the moment, but do you think
if someone removes the engine, transmission, axels and the interior, but
keeps the body and chassis still assembeled, ships the body and chassis
seperately they can get away with it?

Waiting fo the day I win the lottery.

Regards,
David Glaser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 15:23:05 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: SER: Oil Coolers??????

>What's the consensus of opinion on oil coolers??? I used one on my Mini
>Cooper, however my Landie is a diesel.

I fitted one to my Holden-engined sIII last year, and it has made an
enormous difference.  I'm sorry that I didn't fit one to my old diesel,
which used to get pretty hot climbing long slow hills.  Well, all hills are
slow with a series diesel, but some are slower than others.

I paid about $100 for a racing cooler for a Mini, plus another $20 for an
adapter to stuff in between the oil filter & filter housing.  Unless you
have a spin-on filter adapter, you'll probably have to fabricate something
to get oil to the cooler, as the adapters that I've seen all go between
spin-on cooler & block/pump/relief valve.

The worst that can happen is that your engine will never heat up properly,
and then the hoses will chafe though and you'll lose all your engine oil
under catastrohic conditions, the engine will seize and you'll be eaten by
crocodiles.

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 01:34:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Defenders for sale? also SIII SWB's

I have a 94 d-90 for $25,000.  It has 59000 mi, arb bullbar, Al roof rack,
OME suspension, 9000xi winch.   If youare interested call me at work
303-621-2011 or e-mail me at BarrieWyLR@aol.com.  I,ll get back to you next
week.

                                     Be Happy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:07:05 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: importing!!

At 01:10 AM 5/9/97 -0400, David L Glaser wrote:
:>   A little word of advice.  If the manifest shows enough parts in the
:> container for one vehicle or enough parts to put together the chassis in
:> the container then EPA and DOT will come down on you!!  If you want to
:> do something like this, ship the parts separately!!  Rolling frames are
:> becoming a problem now, since customs has caught on to this scheme.
:Out of curiosity, I'm completley broke at the moment, but do you think
:if someone removes the engine, transmission, axels and the interior, but
:keeps the body and chassis still assembeled, ships the body and chassis
:seperately they can get away with it?

 Just take the engine and the tranny out, that will do.  You are not
 allowed to put 'the same' engine back.  I'm not sure if 'same' means
 the engine that was taken out, or the 'same' type.

-Michael

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: SER: Metric V Imperial
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 08:15:34 +0200 (MET DST)

Lenny,
| Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be 
| Whitworth, AF, or Metric??????
judging from my 1989 110 and a friends 1973 109 you have all of them
and some odd threads (eg. the 4 bolts on top of the steering relay) more.

| BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. 
See the table about thread sizes at the LR section of my webpage. 
If you have further questions don't hesitate to ask.

Cheers,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 23:18:33 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Strike! (was: Whitworth, Metric and A/F Differences)

> Can we, say by the year 2000, just adopt one standard and be done with
> it??  With Land Rover now being a BMW company, a unified Europe, and Hong
> Kong reverting to China, et al, let us choose metric and get on with it!!

That would all fine and dandy for those in line for a Freeloader, but
doesn't do much good for those of us whose vehicles are 38 years old!

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 09:14:22 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

Me, 1970.  First Car Renault5, then new T*y*t*, then my current LR.  I
will allways have a series, diesel LR.

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: SER: Oil Coolers??????
Date: Fri, 9 May 97 8:44:41 BST

> >What's the consensus of opinion on oil coolers??? I used one on my Mini
> >Cooper, however my Landie is a diesel.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> under catastrohic conditions, the engine will seize and you'll be eaten by
> crocodiles.

I have one, and was wondering whether it was worth keeping - appears it is.
They're standard on the mil 109 and Lightweight. Not sure where the "out" pipe
leaves from (a standard hole in the cylinder head that's usually plugged, I
think), but the return pipe goes to the sump. This is petrol.
>From what I remember, I think the sump fittings are the same? If so,
you could find a mil. sump, piping and oil cooler...

Anyone know how to stop the valves groaning in the oil cooler system?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 46 lines 3218 [forwarded 108 whitespace 439]
 Output: lines 1415 [content 829  forwarded 64 (cut  44) whitespace 422]

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.