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msgSender linesSubject
1 CIrvin1258@aol.com 26Re: importing
2 CIrvin1258@aol.com 11Re: importing
3 Adrian Redmond [channel638Re:MPG /KPG ratings for Land Rovers
4 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo23Re: Steering boxes - repair nightmare?
5 b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent85RE: Land Rover Activities
6 "Chip Mautz" [cmautz@min7subscribe lro-digest
7 "Chip Mautz" [cmautz@min7subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com
8 Mike Gaines [106220.123414BILLING NET ID IDEAS
9 Adrian Redmond [channel650Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith
10 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo15Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith
11 MALCOLMF [MALCOLMF@prodi62Re: Painting
12 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo15Re: Painting
13 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 9Alum-a-weld
14 dbobeck@ushmm.org 20Re: Rear Pinion Seal
15 pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.78Too much work and not enough play ....
16 pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.18Trailing behind
17 debrown@srp.gov 31Age
18 RoverNut@aol.com 75Fwd: Paint
19 Adrian Redmond [channel670Re: Age
20 car4doc [car4doc@concent16Towing
21 car4doc [car4doc@concent20Re: importing
22 Mike Gaines [106220.123425D90 leaks on fancy shoes
23 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo20[not specified]
24 "Matthew P. Martin" [mat20Re: D90 leaks on fancy shoes
25 "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn20SER Rubber on my Shaft
26 "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett39Welding Aluminium
27 Wesley Harris [wharris@i20Transporting new frame
28 lenny@fof.coracle.com (L34SER: Oil Coolers??????
29 lenny@fof.coracle.com (L30SER: Metric V Imperial
30 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns26Re: Welding Aluminium
31 Marc Obrowski [Obrowski@37long spring shackles
32 Michel Bertrand [mbertra41Re: Transporting new frame
33 scooper@scooper.seanet.c11Sighting
34 Land_Rovers@learnlink.em21Re: Transporting new frame
35 jory bell [jory@mit.edu>12Re: Transporting new frame
36 Land_Rovers@learnlink.em26Re: Chateau Elan Meet
37 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u21Re: SER: Metric V Imperial
38 "Bren & Lynne' Workman" 30HELP!!! '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS


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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:04:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: importing

David,

As far as Customs is concerned, you can even have the parts removed, sitting
in the same container as the body/chassis! So long as all the shipping
documents state "Non-running parts car, for personal use", there's no problem
with Customs. As far as DOT is concerned, they're only interested in
running/driving cars.

Parts vehicles ARE NOT subject to DOT/EPA, because they're not completely
assembled.

As I said before - the only problem will be getting it registered once/if you
should re-assemble it. If you have a friend at the DMV - no problem there
either, but if you don't, there's always a chance they'll ask a million
questions.

I just hope that everybody doesn't start doing this, otherwise somebody may
get wise to it, and I'll NEVER get my Tdi!

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:06:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: importing

Oh- as for having this in writing - this is per U.S. Customs regulations. I
don't know what section it's under, but it's there. As I said, I was given
this info by friends that are Customs Inspectors.

Charles

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 14:11:08 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re:MPG /KPG ratings for Land Rovers

Hi all,

The Danish Government, in it's infinite wisdom, has just introduced a
new differentiated registration and road tax system, whereby cars will
be taxed according to their consumption based upon "ENC" standard
consumption ratings.

Easy to calculate the consequences for the average mondeo or corrolla,
but I can't see Land Rover ratings listed anywhere in the press coverage
on the implications of this energy-conscious absurdity (for
energy-conscious read "here's yet another way to introduce a new tax
whicch noone will be able to understand".

Does anybody have any official data relating to puplicised consumption
ratings for Series 1,2,3,4,5 Land Rovers, Rang rovers and discoveries -
I think that the Danish subscribers to the list would be glad of the
figures.

But whether it prevents us driving these beasts is another quesion :-)
More of an enxpensive hobby-tax if you ask me!
---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:20:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering boxes - repair nightmare?

With a grateful Not to Nate Dunsmore for detailed data, it seems that the
big bugaboo in steering boxes is the balls themselves and their tracks -
the balls should be replaced if the box is opened, and the tracks, nuts and
races inspected for grooving and wear.

I did find out that the balls are avialable utside the usual channels - I
called 2 suppliers of bearings hereabouts (Boston, MA. USA) and got quoted
prices of .20 each for the 9/32 and 3/8  "but they're a little pitted with
rust", to .35 and 37 each respectively at a house that moves enough of them
to not have corrosion problems...8*)

Considering Novers Rorth prices them at $1.25 (20 needed) and $.50 (12
needed) each, I think I'll go with the local supply...8*) $11 for the
balls, and another $10 in gaskets, and I shoul be able to do a nice
checkout on the box before I put it in.

                    ajr

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From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Subject: RE: Land Rover Activities
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:48:24 +0200
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Matt Abercrombie[SMTP:maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu] wrote:

I Just recieved word that I will be in Sweden for 6 months starting
in June.  During this six months I will be working for Volvo.  Volvo shuts
down for a month from July 7 to Aug. 8.  During this month, I plan to travel
as much as possible.  Does anyone know of any Land Rover activities that I
might be able to partake in during my month off.  I sort of remember people
talking about such things on the list before, but don't recall what was
said.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Depends on where in Sweden.

Here is a list of OFF-ROAD activities, that is not 
specific for Land-Rovers:

TRIAL CUP:
   June 14. In Karlshamn, info Peter Oejerskog, 
                       phone (+46) 0455 139 41
   August 2. in Visby, info Tommy Goethberg, 
                       phone (+46) 0498 277 870
   September 13. in Staengnaes, info Bengt Soederlund,
                       phone (+46) 0159 211 431

EURO TRIAL 1997:
   June 14-15. in Karlshamn, info Peter Oejerskog, 
                       phone (+46) 0455 139 41
   
TRUCK TRIAL:
   July 19-20. in Ovedsholms slott, no further info yet.

MONSTERRACE:
   July 14-15. in Hedemora, no further info yet.
   July 28-29. in Varberg/Boras, no further info yet.
   August 30-31. in Ed, no further info yet.
   September 20-21. in Halden, Norway (25miles from the boarder)
                     , no further info yet.

FESTIVALS, JAMBOREES, TOURRINGS:
   June 7-8. In Valfjaellet, Terrain Tourring, no further info yet.
   June 7-8. In Haegguma, event, no further info yet.
   June 14-15. In Karlshamn, Terrain Tourring, no further info yet.
   June 14-15. In Boda, Southern Shooting area, no further info yet.
   July 4-5. In Boras, Cooper Festival, no further info yet.
   July 4-5. In Kaettilstorp, 20year jubilee, no further info yet.
   July 7-13. Naerum, Denmark. Danish Land-Rover Club.
         Info on:http://www.landrover-klub.dk/landsarr.htm#Engelsk
   July 7-25. Sweden Offroad Tour 97, Sweden from south to north,
          2500km including 8 off-road days in military areas, 
         info Peter Oejerskog, phone (+46) 0455 139 41
                               Fax   (+46) 0455 135 36
   July 10-13. In Kumla, Swedish Land-Rover Clubs large event.
   July 28.-August 3. On Gotland, Canin Trophy, no further info yet.

As soon as You arrive in Sweden, buy the Swedish magasin 
"4 Wheel Drive", it is avalebly everywhere, to approximatly 8 USD.
The list is a part from the list they have in #2 97. Look under 
4 wheel Club, Kalender 1997.
Have a look at this URL:
 http://home1.swipnet.se/~w-18762/index2.htm
unfortunately mostly in Swedish.

Get contact with Svensk Land Rover Klubb

Box 379, 401 26 Goteborg. Phone (+46) 0701-41 09 88

Get a realy good map with index over Sweden, then You can find most of the places.

Feel free to contact me, if You need more information, I will do
my best. I might read Swedish better until You have been in 
the country for some month.

Happy Rovering from Denmark.

Bent Boehlers

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From: "Chip Mautz" <cmautz@mindspring.com>
Subject: subscribe lro-digest 
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:37:52 -0400

subscribe lro-digest 

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From: "Chip Mautz" <cmautz@mindspring.com>
Subject: subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:39:46 -0400

subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:06:37 -0400
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: BILLING NET ID IDEAS

Hi All,
So who is going to Billing and on which day(s)? Any ideas for a LR Lister's
ID badge?
BTW saw a Hong Kong movie the other day called Burning City (said to have
led to Resevoir Dogs) which featurees a HK Police Slll LWB with blue
lights/sirens etc. The bad guys have a new BMW; must be fun being a bank
robber over there 8>).
Cheers,
Mike Gaines, Slll Lt/Wt `Wicked Wanda`.

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:29:06 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith

Thanks to all who responded to my Zenith woes - several, including
Alexander P. Grice suggested plugging an extraneous port in the low carb
carsting saying "it'll work wonders".

Well I just plugged it, and wonders did it not work! all I achieved was
a much better slow running, BUT with lots of thick oily smoke from the
exhaust which could not be adjusted away by retiming distributor or
adjusting carb - so I gave up and removed plug.

Changing the throttle plate and axle in the carb did work wonders - in
fact the aforementioned improvement to slow running is more likely to be
due to new plate and axle, as the old one did not always close fully due
to worn plate - if it only closed partially, setting the idle screw
meant that when the plate occasionally did close, the engine stalled.

I am now sure that the carb is working as best as it can, and that the
engine timing, whilst not being stroboscopically calibrated, is pretty
optimal - but acceleration is still sluggish over 30mph and top speeds
of above 50 mph on the flat are only achieveable after a three mile
downhill runin with wind behind me. So what is the cause.

I know a clapped out motor when I see one, and this motor exhibits none
of the usual symptoms. It runs smoothly, there is no noticeable smoke -
white or black and there is no oil in the coolant water. There is no
longer a smell of petrol when starting - the distibutor timing and new
throttle plate seem to have cured this.

But something seems to prevent better performance - ANY IDEAS?

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:32:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith

Adrian, your description still seems to me like the timing is off.

Is it pinking? If not, advance it a few degrees and try it again. Honestly,
it seems like it should be MUCH more peppy than this.

If a Diesel driver's not happy with the acceleration, then there's
definitely something wrong.....8*)

               ahr

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:59:38 +0000
From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Painting

The only major aluminum painting job I have ever done was on a Grumman
Sport Boat some twenty years ago.  The best way to describe the Grumman
is that it is much like a 16 foot aluminum square stern canoe, on
steroids.  I purchased it new, in a bare metal finish, and painted it
the first season I owned it. (I love aluminum boats.  Annual
maintenance: winter - turn it upside down; summer - turn it right side
up.) 

A local paint shop gave me the following instructions which worked
perfectly.  The paint has worn off inside where I walk on it and outside
where it has been hauled up on a thousand beaches, but other than that
it is still in perfect condition.  There has never been any flaking,
which I understand is a problem with poorly prepared aluminum.

  1) Wash thoroughly but quickly with a scrub brush and TSP (trisodium
phosphate: an alkaline cleaner, available in any hardware store) to
remove all grease.  Hose it down thoroughly as alkalinity in not kind to
aluminum if left on for a while.  

  2) Wash with vinegar, to give a light surface etch to the natural
aluminum oxide protective coating always present on aluminum.  Hose it
down and let it dry.

  3) Prime with zinc chromate primer.  My biggest problem was that I
used a brush for this operation and it left some brush marks.  

  4) Paint  with oil base paint (flat dead grass for the Grumman.)  This
time I went to Sears and bought a Craftsman brand vibrating paint
sprayer, made by Wagner.  This put the top coat on to perfection, with
no drips, sags or runs.  Probably a flat color or semi-gloss is not as
critical as a typical high gloss automotive finish.  

Wagner sprayers are readily available and I believe now cost in the $75
-$100 range.  There is very little over-spray and no clouds of paint
like you get with a compressed air sprayer or spray cans.  In the twenty
years since I bought mine I have used it to paint the house twice.  They
now have lovely ceramic nozzles which don't seem to wear out like the
old steel ones did.  

All this talk of painting has convinced me to repaint mine, but I think
that the toughest part will be taking off the PDO's (Previous Dreaded
Owner) two paint jobs over the original factory paint.  I may resort to
a commercial solvent paint removers (Zip-Strip?) and paint the Al-Mule
one panel at a time.  
Can anybody recommend a paint that reasonably matches the original light
green color? 

   ~~\---|
    / \  |\
   /   \ ||\
  /     \|| \   =====__
 /_______||__\  |[__]|_\_==_
\____Dory____/  | 65 | SIIa |
 ====(@)======== (@)-----(@)... . -- .--. . .-.   ..-. ..*\:{>

Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage.
Malcolm Forbes

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 13:42:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting

Re: Paint colours:

Take a look at any of the Rover Web sites - the paint colours are
available, and you can get the green mixed to an exact match to the
original.

Why go close enough, when you can get spot-on?

               ajr

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 13:50:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Alum-a-weld

Alan: Thanks for the response. I did notice that the kit sold in JC whitney
does include a stainless wire brush. I will look for it localy first. Thanks.
Andy Blackley

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 07 May 97 13:58:46 EST
Subject: Re: Rear Pinion Seal

     
>..Anybody got a cross-over number (Federal-Mogul, say) for the rear pinion 
>seal on an 88? ...snip..just decided on a 500 mile RT this weekend, and 
>mine's tossing a bit of oil already.  Thanks,
     

     
     no cross reference, but do invest in a speedy sleeve if the sealnig 
     surface is scored. BTW I've driven quite a distance  with one that 
     leaks horrendously. Other than a spot of burning oil on your tialpipe 
     and rear window covered with slime, its no real big deal. Just fill ti 
     before you leave, and when you get where you are going...
     later
     DaveB

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:40:03 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Too much work and not enough play ....

Hi All,

Hallelujah, after a marathon session, I have cleared (read: read) the backlog of 
digest mails back to 6 April.

Just want to clear the decks with a few comments (don't panic, they're all 
recent ones !) :

Re: Help the Aged

>>From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
>>Age:  31
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
>Me Too...

Me Too...

Is there something about 1966 ?

BTW: with regard to the 'Age Census' , what was the outcome of the LR database 
we all provided input for ? did it ever make it online ??

E-mail me direct if you need help collating/processing the data

> VIN,year,type,size,name,color,current location,country,shape,original dealer,
> e-mail,lro-net,notes

Re: Tyres on doors

My Spare is also mounted high on the rear door, but this is the only option when 
using the NATO tow hitch attached directly to the rear X-member. 
I've also mounted it with the side with 2 bolts uppermost (made more sense in my 
twisted logic that way) I assume this is upside down, what is the consensus ?

Re: 1st Car

Hillman Avenger 1500 - superb

Most regretted sale - Lancia HPE 2000ie

Re: Synthetic Oil

> From: robot1@juno.com (Mark E Hardig)
>>C. Marin Faure writes:
>> ... If an engine has been run for some time on non-synthetic oil to synthetic
>> oil can create the most amazing oil leaks from every joint and seam in the
>> engine.

> At the risk of repeating the post of another owner, synthetics tend to
> agressively clean out the grunge masking existing leaks. Synthetic oils
> DO NOT CAUSE OIL LEAKS.

I concur with this, I swapped from Mineral to Synthetic in the Lancia Engine, 
without any strange leaks or other problems occurring. 

However, I didn't see anyone warning of the problems if you accidentally use 
lubricants designed for diesel engines in a petrol, as these will undoubtedly 
start to dissolve all of the accumulated gunk in the petrol engine, (including 
that in oilways) and could block said oil passages in extreme cases.

If a similar thing happens with Synthetic Oil, this could be a cause for 
concern.  

Enough for now, but I missed the boat re: the coinage threads. If anyone uses 
Lire as said fixing accessories, then I could say they're probably worth more in 
metal content at the moment than currency :-O

Cheers,

Paul "where for art thou Sterling" W

 

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:43:52 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Trailing behind

Hi all,

Quick one...

I'm sure someone has researched this question:

Where is the best place (Company) in the UK to get a military 'Sankey' trailer ?

What is the current cost ?

Cheers,

Paul.

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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 07 May 97 12:00:47 MST
Subject: Age

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
While the "age" issue did start and migrate from the RRO list, it took a
new twist when it got here. It was started when a 16 yr old reported how
much he loved his D90, and several of his friends owned D90's as well,
while his "mum" owned a Disco. I can only assume that this must have
been in the UK where older D90's are more common, and affordable.

Anyway... the "16 yrs old" thing piqued the interest of someone who
wondered what the median age of the list members was. Then everyone
started responding... I think it was intended to include how many LR's
you owned, so that your age would be "weighted" proportionally to the
quantity of LR's you own.

So... Dave Brown Age 40, with '70 109 IIa, and '71 88 IIa, and '87 RR.

So far, the average "coiler's" age is around 38.

Dave Brown

I count him braver who overcomes     #=======#         _____l___
his desires than him who conquers    |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
his enemies; for the hardest victory | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:08:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Paint

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: Paint
Date:    97-05-07 15:01:05 EDT
From:    RoverNut

Wes,

You can buy a spray gun from NAPA for about $60 or a cheapo at WalMart for
about $25 (no experience with that one), borrow or rent a compressor and hose
and you're all set.

Ways to save money:
don't prime (if there's any original paint on the truck at all)
don't clear coat

If you can afford it, use an etching primer. It used to be available only in
bulk cans, but now you can get it in rattle cans for only $5 per. Five cans
will put on a light coat everywhere which is good enough.

Use acrylic enamel for your top coat. Original colors can be obtained through
ANY car paint store, but you need to bring them the codes. Any of the parts
houses can supply you with those. Original custom blended colors can run
about $65 a gallon. Regardless of what anyone tells you, a gallon will do it
since the top is a different color. If you can make do with stock colors, you
will only spend about $35 a gallon. I had Marine Blue mixed up for the body.
I felt the original color was worth the expense since it would match the
interior. I used a stock color, Wimbledon White, for the top and rims. I'm
glad I did. When I switched to 16" rims I bought the same color in rattle
cans for $3.25 each. Used with etching primer it made them look...I'm not
kidding...brand new. Note: get you rims sand-blasted first.  It costs $50,
but will make even the crappiest, rustiest rims look fantastic after they are
painted. If you don't do it when you paint  the truck, save your money and do
it right later. It is amazing how good looking rims make or break the overall
appearance.

Now the bad news:
Guys get lots of money to do this job because a) it's tricky at times and b)
it's a sucky job.
Tape EVERYTHING WELL! Pressurized paint finds its way into every crack, which
is good because it makes for an even job, but can cause a ton of work if you
need to clean it up later.
I worked from Friday 5pm until Sunday 3 pm, every hour it was light and a few
when it was dark.
I also Bondoed the bad dents, but left the small dings. I would take this
step again even if I had to do it 100 more times. If you're gonna do it, suck
it up, give up your weekend and do it right. It will take a lot of time even
if you're using rattle cans.
Also consider:
This stuff is cyanide based so you'll need a respirator and goggles. $10 will
buy disposables at the NAPA.
Paint needs reducer. You'll need over a gallon at $25 per.
Buy cheap drop cloths, masking tape (thin and wide) and steal a ton of
newspaper.
Remember, if you scrimp, it makes for much more work and many errands during
the painting. Better to buy it now and return the left-overs.
The whole deal cost me under $200 all supplies included and I'm happy as hell
with the end results. Sure there are a few drips, it's a bit uneven, hazy in
areas, but a guy I know who paints cars was really impressed at my first job.
If it were a restored "59 Jag E-type I would be bummed, but it's a Land Rover
and this paint job will look much better than most of the ones on the road.
Plus you won't have an expensive, poofy show-piece you can't ding up.

Good luck and keep in touch,

Alex
69 IIA
89 Rangie

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 21:29:52 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Age

Regarding age and first vehicles -

Me - 1956
my first vehicles in 1973 onwards -

Triumpth Herald
Mini Cooper
Ford Zephyr
Ford Cortina Mk.1 (CND rear lights)
Morris 1000
Ford Cortina Mk.2 estate
Morris Marina
VW Camper
Ford Transit
LADA stationwagon
Zastava 800
Ford Cortina Mk.3
VW Camper

This curious progression of vehicles took me from 1973 to 1984 at which
time I recognised my true colours and aqquired -

Land Rover 109" Diesel SIII Hardtop (1976)
Land Rover  88" Diesel SIII Hardtop (1979) (Icelander)

which, with the exception of a VW LT35D bus for our unit vehicle, have
lasted my as trusty friends since 1984 - I don not intend to buy a real
car again - a waste of time and money! At 40 I no longer seek "doing the
ton" (or is it "tonne"?) as beating the 100 mph barrier used to be
called. I am perfectly happy to get up an hour earlier than the rest of
our unit, pack my bacon-and-egg-butties, and trondle off in my Series
III to location, still getting there well before the others, but having
allowed time for those early-morning specialities which the true series
driver has learnt to accept, deal with, and even value as part of the
charm of it all.

For years I have wanted a Range-rover, or even a Defender, but when I
look at these wagons of 10-15 years vintage, I do ask myself if it
really is worth the extra cash and tax to pack so much mechanics under
the bonnet, and not really be able to utilise all that power here in
Denmark, a country where cubic capacity equates with higher taxes, but
not higher speed.

No, I'm now a satisfied and comitted Series III owner/driver and who
knows - in 20 years time I may have progressed to Series II or even a
Series 1.

Now back to painting that radiator grille....

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
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mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 11:37:26 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Towing

Hi All,
 It seem that with the concern with putting the trans in netural & being
tempted to drop the drive shaft.  I ask you why not just put the
rear(trailing) axles?  My brother & I did this last summer to tow his
109 home from NY.  It was easy fast & if we had for some reason needed
to use the 109 under it own power we could have reinstalled the axles.

This seem like the simplest logic to me.
  
Regards,
Rob Davis_chicago

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:58:33 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: importing

Hi All,
 When I talked to customs about importing (just dreams) a LR which was
not running.  Customs told me that a car without an engine still had to
pass Emission standards if the transmission was still mounted.  At the
time I wanted to import a 101 as parts.  They were clear that nothing
military was allowed in to the USA even as parts.  There was a question
about privite properity car(not meant for the road) which seemed to be
an exception.
 Be advised that a car comming in from Canada would pass many of the DOT
issues(brakes,lights,etc) I was advised to bring in a car from there was
easier.
 This what I was told by a lawyer for customs when I called customs in
DC.  FYI  
Regards, 
Rob davis_chicago

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 16:53:38 -0400
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 leaks on fancy shoes

Hi All,
This is a posting from my Better Half, Maureen, who is new to the Net & LRO
Digest. I told her just to wear Wellies as its sposed to be a LR-- result
was one of those Hard Stares--marrried guys will know what I mean. Anyway,
over to Maurs...
  
Hi,
.I am tired of getting a wet foot every time it rains. Help!

In torrential rain, water is coming into the driver's footwell (RHD). I
think it may have something
to do with the gas pedal and its worse when I go round right hand corners.

Any ideas?

Maurs ( Defender 90 TDi CSW ,  Deffi)

p.s  Mike thinks this is funny but he doesn't have a proper Land Rover --
he's got a Lightweight.
Exactly!

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Subject: Land Rover "Greens"
Date: Wed, 7 May 97 16:26:42 -0500
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

We've been trying to match a green on a local rover for painting and have 
run into some minor problems.  We'd like to paint it the original "Bronze 
Green", which actually looks to have faded to more of a "British Racing 
Green".  We do have the paint codes that are available for matching these 
colors (and the local NAPA auto parts guy said that he can probably 
cross-match these codes).  We have the Du-pont and Ditzler (or PPG) codes.
  In his paint color reference book there is listed under Land Rover the 
various colors that rovers were painted way back when and then they list 
the supposedly perfect current NAPA equivalents.  I saw good 'ol Poppy 
Red, Limestone & Marine Blue, but no Bronze green.  His book did however 
list two other greens that I have not heard of - Arden Green (for years 
beginning in '64) and Cameron Green for '71-'72.  Are these just other 
names for Bronze green? or are these different colors?

Thanks.
Keith

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:31:41 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@webspan.net>
Subject: Re: D90 leaks on fancy shoes

Hey Maureen;
I take it your on the otherside of the "pond"...Well I get the same thing 
with my NAS D90 (LHD)....The gas pedal leaks, the dash tray well fills 
with water...The soft top lets in the wonder wet stuff too!

The problem is not around the gas pedal...it is somewhere up high and it 
is leaking down, like somewhere right below where the hood meets the 
windscreen.... I have attempted silicone sealant...to no avail...

This is one of those times when your spouse is right...Suck it up, its a 
Land Rover!!!

Later
Matt
#2899

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 14:50:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: SER Rubber on my Shaft

OK.
I have no rubber on my steering shaft. 
 Did I mention we're talking about the turn,horn wand on a SIII?  It seems that
where the wand is mounted the opening that should fit snugly up against the
shaft is far to small.  There is a notch that is on the column and a tab that
corresponds roughly to this notch but no way to mate the two as the column is
about 1/2" to large?  

Curious, it would seem.

I don't imagine my shaft swelled.

sorry
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Welding Aluminium
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:17:00 +1000

I went to the Caravanning, Camping and 4WD show in
Sydney last month.  What I did see demonstrated
was some aluminium welding by a guy (note I use
the word "guy, not "bloke" 'cos this guy was of
NAS construction).

This stuff seemed exceptionally easy to use using
a propane torch to heat the metal to 380 degrees
Celsius.  It look ideal for use by the home
LR / RR repairer.

It was called ULTRA BOND. Supposedly Australian
made. Has anyone tried it.  I'm usually charmed
by snake-oil salesmen so I'd like someone else's
opinion.

I didn't buy any 'cos I was all out of cash
having blown it on other stuff.

Cost:

5 rods A$10, 12 rods A$20, Postage A$3

Sold by Lavere Products, PO Box 50 Taralga,
NSW, Australia 2580.

Usual disclaimer.

Regards,

Ron Beckett
1987 RR 4.8L
Emu Plains, Australia

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 20:11:41 -0500
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com>
Subject: Transporting new frame

I'm about to order my new frame and have a bit of a dilemma.  I was planning
to have it shipped to my workplace, get some of the lads to help me heft it
into my pickup, then drive it home.  Sounds easy, eh?  
-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)?

-will it, by any means, fit into/onto my dwarfish Ford Ranger pickup?

-should I just eat the $50 residential delivery fee and have it shipped to
my home?

Ideas?  Anecdotes?  Warnings?

Cheers,
Wes Harris
'66 88"SW

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From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 07 May 97 19:15:42 +0000
Subject: SER: Oil Coolers??????

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

What's the consensus of opinion on oil coolers??? I used one on my Mini 
Cooper, however my Landie is a diesel. I mainly tow a caravan, so I 
thought it might be beneficial, but a friend reckons it would be a waste 
of time!!

Anyone fitted one to their Landie???? 
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  19/5
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                         _______ 
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_| 
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________
_____________________________________________________________________________

 
... Kryten: Sir, a couple of brief points: firstly, you're not a qualified
... service engineer, and, consequently, sawing me in two will invalidate
... my guarantee; secondly, I wouldn't trust you to open a can of sardines
... that was already open.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

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From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 07 May 97 19:17:47 +0000
Subject: SER: Metric V Imperial

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be 
Whitworth, AF, or Metric??????

BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. 
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  20/5
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                         _______ 
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_| 
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________
_____________________________________________________________________________

 
... Convince visitors you are a cat lover by taking a razor blade to your
... furniture and urinating regularly behind your settee.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 10:48:11 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Welding Aluminium

Beckett, Ron wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> I went to the Caravanning, Camping and 4WD show in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
> 1987 RR 4.8L
> Emu Plains, Australia

Well, it seems these guys are everywhere! One brought some rods to work 
and demo'ed the glory of fixing holes in pop cans. Worked great. Couldn't 
even put a hole back in the same place. Price was really high too. I 
didn't buy any cause all he had was order forms for it. Later that night 
at home I looked through my 600 lbs  of welding rods that I got from the 
farmer I bought my arc welder from. Found a box (5 lbs) 24" 5/32" 
aluminium rods and tried it. Worked great, but when I tried to weld on a 
thick piece of stuff, 14 ga and on a LR panel scrap I had here, well, it 
just don't work. The heat is not right, the metel is different and it 
really is discouraging to see the hole get bigger! But someday, I could 
probably get a job at the local recyler fixing all those pop cans for 
reuse!
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: Marc Obrowski <Obrowski@siemens.com.au>
Subject: long spring shackles
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 13:20:00 +1000

I know this subject has already come up some time ago as a search of the
archive revealed, but I could not find my answers there.

SIII LWB Hard Top:
I have a pair of long front suspension spring shackles laying around (I
believe they are used in Australian Army Land Rovers). I want to fit
them, without changing the spring hangers at the front end of the front
springs (I know the gain in ground clearance is going to be only half of
what the shackles are longer).
Two question I have there:

1. The angle of the front axle will be slightly different (the rear end
of the spring goes down and the front end stays where it is). Will the
universal joint (which then is slightly less straight) have any problem
with that?

2. These shackles have 3 bores, one on each end and one in the middle.
The normal ones only have bores at the ends where they attach to spring
and chassis respectively. They came with a sort of bushing in the middle
bore. Is this just meant to be a replacement bushing and goes to one
end, or does it stay in the middle bore to give some extra stability?

Any other comment on how to gain some ground clearance the painless way
(unfortunately I don't have the time and tools to go into heavy chassis
welding jobs) would be nice.

Cheers

---- --
marc obrowski
melbourne, australia

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 23:40:23 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Transporting new frame

At 20:11 97-05-07 -0500, you wrote:

>I'm about to order my new frame and have a bit of a dilemma.  I was planning
-to have it shipped to my workplace, get some of the lads to help me heft it
>into my pickup, then drive it home.  Sounds easy, eh?  
>-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)?
-
>-will it, by any means, fit into/onto my dwarfish Ford Ranger pickup?
>-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)?
--should I just eat the $50 residential delivery fee and have it shipped to
>my home?
>-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)?
-Ideas?  Anecdotes?  Warnings?
>my home?
-
>From your .sig, I believe that you are talking about a SWB frame. It weights
about 250 pounds and can be carried by two guys. However, lifting up into a
pick-up could be a tidy bit dangerous for your backs. The frame is about 5'
by 12'. I don't know how big the box of your pick-up is, but I believe that
a good deal of the frame will stick out. Better tie it down tight! A good
advice is to measure the dimensions of the pick-up box before attempting
anything with such a big lump.

Personnally, I would pay the extra 50$ to save the trouble and possible
injuries.

Mon opinion, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:53:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Sighting

Saw a defender 110 in Seattle on Friday, went around a corner and saw a
defender 90 parked.  Proceeded up another street and saw another defender 90
heading toward me (not in my series at this time).  One of the defender 90's
had Oregon plates.
Lucky day,
                                     John Cooper 1969 11a

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From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 23:57:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Transporting new frame

moving frames...piece of cake; two guys with reasonably healthy backs
can wrestle a SWB frame into the back of a 8' pickup bed and it will
hang out just over the tailgate. it needs to be tied down securely as
the cg will be biased toward the open end of the pickup bed. best bet
is to cajole a friend with a ten foot landscaping trailer to come by
(they're lower and you don't have to pick it up so high...don't know if
i would try it in the back of a ford ranger the bed's a little short
and the frame will be balancing around a point uncomfortably close to
the end of the truck. last frame i carted around was my 88's and i used
my trailer made from the back of a 8' bed dodge truck with the rear
x-member hung over the front lip of the bed and the frame in the
trailer upside down. mark ritter and i loaded and unloaded it by
ourselves but three warm bodies make it easy.

jack walter

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Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 21:10:50 -0700
From: jory bell <jory@mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Transporting new frame

i transported my new frame from RN several hundred miles in the back of a
uhaul. worked just fine. also put a willy's jeep in there with it on the
same trip to share the uhaul expenses. that whole trip was quite amusing,
some of which i will have to recount once the statuate of limitations
expires.

::jory

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From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 00:13:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Chateau Elan Meet

scott, and all other interested parties;

British Motorcar Day, 1997 will be the fourteenth annual charity
fundraiser sponsored by all of the Atlanta area British car clubs. It
will be held from 10-4 on saturday May 10 at Chateau Elan just west of
I-85 at exit 48 (about 35 miles NE of the I-285 x I-85 interchange).
Registration for day of the event is $15 for the first vehicle, $5 per
each additional british machine (some people bring more than one!
enlist a friend to drive your other pride & joy). SPECATORS GET IN
FREE! (We figure this way we'll infect other potential owners and get
more entrants next year) so far over 230 cars are preregistered
including about thirty Morgans and we generally get as many day of
event registrations as preregistered cars so we're looking at about 500
cars this year...weather looks good for saturday; 70 degrees and partly
cloudy...see you there!

figure about an hour and fifteen minutes from windy hill if in a series
rover; about an hour if in a coiler.

jack walter

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: SER: Metric V Imperial
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 8:44:43 BST

> Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be 
> Whitworth, AF, or Metric??????

Mine's '73, as far as I can tell, it has all 3!
 
> BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. 

Metric are measured in mm. AF are measured in fractions of an inch (16ths I
think).
Whitworth gets a bad press round here, cos it doesn't seem to follow any
plan. Mr. Whitworth was actually a very cunning bloke, who came up with
the very first standard set of screw/bolt/sizes. Blatantly obvious these days,
but during the Industrial Revolution, every machine shop used its own sizes...

Richard

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Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:49:39 -0400
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: HELP!!!  '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS

If you have any suggestions on how I could remedy my clutch problems,
please help.  E-mail or read my posting on Rovers North Bulletin Board
and post suggestions.
Symptoms:  Clutch pedal is hard to push down, it's not the spring.
Clutch engages tranny too close to the floor.
Clutch releases too harshly, often with a clunk and even with
concentrated, slow    release.
When I engage the clutch, I have to wait a solid two seconds before I
can shift either 
   into 1st or 2nd gear.  If I do it quicker, the teeth will grind in
the tranny.     Please tell me this is a clutch thing and not a tranny
problem.  It doesn't do it
   going into 3rd or 4th gear, though.
Well that's it.  Just drove this Rover from Seattle to Fairbanks in
about 63 hours.  Does anyone have an e-mail address for Mike Goss? 
Thanks alot for your help.  My wifes's holding my Ser III hostage until
I get her Love Wagon up to par.  She says she'll name it after she
take's receipt.  Hey Brit Pac, I payed too much, huh?  A lovers heart
often wins out over his head, Bren.

Bren Workman
bworkman@alaska.net
(907) 356-3947
'72 88" SW  "Tilly"
'65 109" SW

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