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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 26 | Re: importing |
2 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 11 | Re: importing |
3 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 38 | Re:MPG /KPG ratings for Land Rovers |
4 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 23 | Re: Steering boxes - repair nightmare? |
5 | b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent | 85 | RE: Land Rover Activities |
6 | "Chip Mautz" [cmautz@min | 7 | subscribe lro-digest |
7 | "Chip Mautz" [cmautz@min | 7 | subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com |
8 | Mike Gaines [106220.1234 | 14 | BILLING NET ID IDEAS |
9 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 50 | Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith |
10 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 15 | Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith |
11 | MALCOLMF [MALCOLMF@prodi | 62 | Re: Painting |
12 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 15 | Re: Painting |
13 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 9 | Alum-a-weld |
14 | dbobeck@ushmm.org | 20 | Re: Rear Pinion Seal |
15 | pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa. | 78 | Too much work and not enough play .... |
16 | pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa. | 18 | Trailing behind |
17 | debrown@srp.gov | 31 | Age |
18 | RoverNut@aol.com | 75 | Fwd: Paint |
19 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 70 | Re: Age |
20 | car4doc [car4doc@concent | 16 | Towing |
21 | car4doc [car4doc@concent | 20 | Re: importing |
22 | Mike Gaines [106220.1234 | 25 | D90 leaks on fancy shoes |
23 | "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo | 20 | [not specified] |
24 | "Matthew P. Martin" [mat | 20 | Re: D90 leaks on fancy shoes |
25 | "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn | 20 | SER Rubber on my Shaft |
26 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 39 | Welding Aluminium |
27 | Wesley Harris [wharris@i | 20 | Transporting new frame |
28 | lenny@fof.coracle.com (L | 34 | SER: Oil Coolers?????? |
29 | lenny@fof.coracle.com (L | 30 | SER: Metric V Imperial |
30 | "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns | 26 | Re: Welding Aluminium |
31 | Marc Obrowski [Obrowski@ | 37 | long spring shackles |
32 | Michel Bertrand [mbertra | 41 | Re: Transporting new frame |
33 | scooper@scooper.seanet.c | 11 | Sighting |
34 | Land_Rovers@learnlink.em | 21 | Re: Transporting new frame |
35 | jory bell [jory@mit.edu> | 12 | Re: Transporting new frame |
36 | Land_Rovers@learnlink.em | 26 | Re: Chateau Elan Meet |
37 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 21 | Re: SER: Metric V Imperial |
38 | "Bren & Lynne' Workman" | 30 | HELP!!! '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS |
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:04:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: importing David, As far as Customs is concerned, you can even have the parts removed, sitting in the same container as the body/chassis! So long as all the shipping documents state "Non-running parts car, for personal use", there's no problem with Customs. As far as DOT is concerned, they're only interested in running/driving cars. Parts vehicles ARE NOT subject to DOT/EPA, because they're not completely assembled. As I said before - the only problem will be getting it registered once/if you should re-assemble it. If you have a friend at the DMV - no problem there either, but if you don't, there's always a chance they'll ask a million questions. I just hope that everybody doesn't start doing this, otherwise somebody may get wise to it, and I'll NEVER get my Tdi! Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:06:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: importing Oh- as for having this in writing - this is per U.S. Customs regulations. I don't know what section it's under, but it's there. As I said, I was given this info by friends that are Customs Inspectors. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 14:11:08 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re:MPG /KPG ratings for Land Rovers Hi all, The Danish Government, in it's infinite wisdom, has just introduced a new differentiated registration and road tax system, whereby cars will be taxed according to their consumption based upon "ENC" standard consumption ratings. Easy to calculate the consequences for the average mondeo or corrolla, but I can't see Land Rover ratings listed anywhere in the press coverage on the implications of this energy-conscious absurdity (for energy-conscious read "here's yet another way to introduce a new tax whicch noone will be able to understand". Does anybody have any official data relating to puplicised consumption ratings for Series 1,2,3,4,5 Land Rovers, Rang rovers and discoveries - I think that the Danish subscribers to the list would be glad of the figures. But whether it prevents us driving these beasts is another quesion :-) More of an enxpensive hobby-tax if you ask me! --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 08:20:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Steering boxes - repair nightmare? With a grateful Not to Nate Dunsmore for detailed data, it seems that the big bugaboo in steering boxes is the balls themselves and their tracks - the balls should be replaced if the box is opened, and the tracks, nuts and races inspected for grooving and wear. I did find out that the balls are avialable utside the usual channels - I called 2 suppliers of bearings hereabouts (Boston, MA. USA) and got quoted prices of .20 each for the 9/32 and 3/8 "but they're a little pitted with rust", to .35 and 37 each respectively at a house that moves enough of them to not have corrosion problems...8*) Considering Novers Rorth prices them at $1.25 (20 needed) and $.50 (12 needed) each, I think I'll go with the local supply...8*) $11 for the balls, and another $10 in gaskets, and I shoul be able to do a nice checkout on the box before I put it in. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers) Subject: RE: Land Rover Activities Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:48:24 +0200 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC5AFE.1A1666C0" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Matt Abercrombie[SMTP:maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu] wrote: I Just recieved word that I will be in Sweden for 6 months starting in June. During this six months I will be working for Volvo. Volvo shuts down for a month from July 7 to Aug. 8. During this month, I plan to travel as much as possible. Does anyone know of any Land Rover activities that I might be able to partake in during my month off. I sort of remember people talking about such things on the list before, but don't recall what was said. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Depends on where in Sweden. Here is a list of OFF-ROAD activities, that is not specific for Land-Rovers: TRIAL CUP: June 14. In Karlshamn, info Peter Oejerskog, phone (+46) 0455 139 41 August 2. in Visby, info Tommy Goethberg, phone (+46) 0498 277 870 September 13. in Staengnaes, info Bengt Soederlund, phone (+46) 0159 211 431 EURO TRIAL 1997: June 14-15. in Karlshamn, info Peter Oejerskog, phone (+46) 0455 139 41 TRUCK TRIAL: July 19-20. in Ovedsholms slott, no further info yet. MONSTERRACE: July 14-15. in Hedemora, no further info yet. July 28-29. in Varberg/Boras, no further info yet. August 30-31. in Ed, no further info yet. September 20-21. in Halden, Norway (25miles from the boarder) , no further info yet. FESTIVALS, JAMBOREES, TOURRINGS: June 7-8. In Valfjaellet, Terrain Tourring, no further info yet. June 7-8. In Haegguma, event, no further info yet. June 14-15. In Karlshamn, Terrain Tourring, no further info yet. June 14-15. In Boda, Southern Shooting area, no further info yet. July 4-5. In Boras, Cooper Festival, no further info yet. July 4-5. In Kaettilstorp, 20year jubilee, no further info yet. July 7-13. Naerum, Denmark. Danish Land-Rover Club. Info on:http://www.landrover-klub.dk/landsarr.htm#Engelsk July 7-25. Sweden Offroad Tour 97, Sweden from south to north, 2500km including 8 off-road days in military areas, info Peter Oejerskog, phone (+46) 0455 139 41 Fax (+46) 0455 135 36 July 10-13. In Kumla, Swedish Land-Rover Clubs large event. July 28.-August 3. On Gotland, Canin Trophy, no further info yet. As soon as You arrive in Sweden, buy the Swedish magasin "4 Wheel Drive", it is avalebly everywhere, to approximatly 8 USD. The list is a part from the list they have in #2 97. Look under 4 wheel Club, Kalender 1997. Have a look at this URL: http://home1.swipnet.se/~w-18762/index2.htm unfortunately mostly in Swedish. Get contact with Svensk Land Rover Klubb Box 379, 401 26 Goteborg. Phone (+46) 0701-41 09 88 Get a realy good map with index over Sweden, then You can find most of the places. Feel free to contact me, if You need more information, I will do my best. I might read Swedish better until You have been in the country for some month. Happy Rovering from Denmark. Bent Boehlers ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC5AFE.1A1666C0 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chip Mautz" <cmautz@mindspring.com> Subject: subscribe lro-digest Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:37:52 -0400 subscribe lro-digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chip Mautz" <cmautz@mindspring.com> Subject: subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:39:46 -0400 subscribe lro-digest cmautz@mindspring.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:06:37 -0400 From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com> Subject: BILLING NET ID IDEAS Hi All, So who is going to Billing and on which day(s)? Any ideas for a LR Lister's ID badge? BTW saw a Hong Kong movie the other day called Burning City (said to have led to Resevoir Dogs) which featurees a HK Police Slll LWB with blue lights/sirens etc. The bad guys have a new BMW; must be fun being a bank robber over there 8>). Cheers, Mike Gaines, Slll Lt/Wt `Wicked Wanda`. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:29:06 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith Thanks to all who responded to my Zenith woes - several, including Alexander P. Grice suggested plugging an extraneous port in the low carb carsting saying "it'll work wonders". Well I just plugged it, and wonders did it not work! all I achieved was a much better slow running, BUT with lots of thick oily smoke from the exhaust which could not be adjusted away by retiming distributor or adjusting carb - so I gave up and removed plug. Changing the throttle plate and axle in the carb did work wonders - in fact the aforementioned improvement to slow running is more likely to be due to new plate and axle, as the old one did not always close fully due to worn plate - if it only closed partially, setting the idle screw meant that when the plate occasionally did close, the engine stalled. I am now sure that the carb is working as best as it can, and that the engine timing, whilst not being stroboscopically calibrated, is pretty optimal - but acceleration is still sluggish over 30mph and top speeds of above 50 mph on the flat are only achieveable after a three mile downhill runin with wind behind me. So what is the cause. I know a clapped out motor when I see one, and this motor exhibits none of the usual symptoms. It runs smoothly, there is no noticeable smoke - white or black and there is no oil in the coolant water. There is no longer a smell of petrol when starting - the distibutor timing and new throttle plate seem to have cured this. But something seems to prevent better performance - ANY IDEAS? -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:32:00 -0400 Subject: Re: Plugging the superfluous hole of Zenith Adrian, your description still seems to me like the timing is off. Is it pinking? If not, advance it a few degrees and try it again. Honestly, it seems like it should be MUCH more peppy than this. If a Diesel driver's not happy with the acceleration, then there's definitely something wrong.....8*) ahr ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:59:38 +0000 From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Painting The only major aluminum painting job I have ever done was on a Grumman Sport Boat some twenty years ago. The best way to describe the Grumman is that it is much like a 16 foot aluminum square stern canoe, on steroids. I purchased it new, in a bare metal finish, and painted it the first season I owned it. (I love aluminum boats. Annual maintenance: winter - turn it upside down; summer - turn it right side up.) A local paint shop gave me the following instructions which worked perfectly. The paint has worn off inside where I walk on it and outside where it has been hauled up on a thousand beaches, but other than that it is still in perfect condition. There has never been any flaking, which I understand is a problem with poorly prepared aluminum. 1) Wash thoroughly but quickly with a scrub brush and TSP (trisodium phosphate: an alkaline cleaner, available in any hardware store) to remove all grease. Hose it down thoroughly as alkalinity in not kind to aluminum if left on for a while. 2) Wash with vinegar, to give a light surface etch to the natural aluminum oxide protective coating always present on aluminum. Hose it down and let it dry. 3) Prime with zinc chromate primer. My biggest problem was that I used a brush for this operation and it left some brush marks. 4) Paint with oil base paint (flat dead grass for the Grumman.) This time I went to Sears and bought a Craftsman brand vibrating paint sprayer, made by Wagner. This put the top coat on to perfection, with no drips, sags or runs. Probably a flat color or semi-gloss is not as critical as a typical high gloss automotive finish. Wagner sprayers are readily available and I believe now cost in the $75 -$100 range. There is very little over-spray and no clouds of paint like you get with a compressed air sprayer or spray cans. In the twenty years since I bought mine I have used it to paint the house twice. They now have lovely ceramic nozzles which don't seem to wear out like the old steel ones did. All this talk of painting has convinced me to repaint mine, but I think that the toughest part will be taking off the PDO's (Previous Dreaded Owner) two paint jobs over the original factory paint. I may resort to a commercial solvent paint removers (Zip-Strip?) and paint the Al-Mule one panel at a time. Can anybody recommend a paint that reasonably matches the original light green color? ~~\---| / \ |\ / \ ||\ / \|| \ =====__ /_______||__\ |[__]|_\_==_ \____Dory____/ | 65 | SIIa | ====(@)======== (@)-----(@)... . -- .--. . .-. ..-. ..*\:{> Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage. Malcolm Forbes ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 13:42:47 -0400 Subject: Re: Painting Re: Paint colours: Take a look at any of the Rover Web sites - the paint colours are available, and you can get the green mixed to an exact match to the original. Why go close enough, when you can get spot-on? ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 13:50:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Alum-a-weld Alan: Thanks for the response. I did notice that the kit sold in JC whitney does include a stainless wire brush. I will look for it localy first. Thanks. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@ushmm.org Date: Wed, 07 May 97 13:58:46 EST Subject: Re: Rear Pinion Seal >..Anybody got a cross-over number (Federal-Mogul, say) for the rear pinion >seal on an 88? ...snip..just decided on a 500 mile RT this weekend, and >mine's tossing a bit of oil already. Thanks, no cross reference, but do invest in a speedy sleeve if the sealnig surface is scored. BTW I've driven quite a distance with one that leaks horrendously. Other than a spot of burning oil on your tialpipe and rear window covered with slime, its no real big deal. Just fill ti before you leave, and when you get where you are going... later DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:40:03 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>) Subject: Too much work and not enough play .... Hi All, Hallelujah, after a marathon session, I have cleared (read: read) the backlog of digest mails back to 6 April. Just want to clear the decks with a few comments (don't panic, they're all recent ones !) : Re: Help the Aged >>From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> >>Age: 31 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] >From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> >Me Too... Me Too... Is there something about 1966 ? BTW: with regard to the 'Age Census' , what was the outcome of the LR database we all provided input for ? did it ever make it online ?? E-mail me direct if you need help collating/processing the data > VIN,year,type,size,name,color,current location,country,shape,original dealer, > e-mail,lro-net,notes Re: Tyres on doors My Spare is also mounted high on the rear door, but this is the only option when using the NATO tow hitch attached directly to the rear X-member. I've also mounted it with the side with 2 bolts uppermost (made more sense in my twisted logic that way) I assume this is upside down, what is the consensus ? Re: 1st Car Hillman Avenger 1500 - superb Most regretted sale - Lancia HPE 2000ie Re: Synthetic Oil > From: robot1@juno.com (Mark E Hardig) >>C. Marin Faure writes: >> ... If an engine has been run for some time on non-synthetic oil to synthetic >> oil can create the most amazing oil leaks from every joint and seam in the >> engine. > At the risk of repeating the post of another owner, synthetics tend to > agressively clean out the grunge masking existing leaks. Synthetic oils > DO NOT CAUSE OIL LEAKS. I concur with this, I swapped from Mineral to Synthetic in the Lancia Engine, without any strange leaks or other problems occurring. However, I didn't see anyone warning of the problems if you accidentally use lubricants designed for diesel engines in a petrol, as these will undoubtedly start to dissolve all of the accumulated gunk in the petrol engine, (including that in oilways) and could block said oil passages in extreme cases. If a similar thing happens with Synthetic Oil, this could be a cause for concern. Enough for now, but I missed the boat re: the coinage threads. If anyone uses Lire as said fixing accessories, then I could say they're probably worth more in metal content at the moment than currency :-O Cheers, Paul "where for art thou Sterling" W ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:43:52 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>) Subject: Trailing behind Hi all, Quick one... I'm sure someone has researched this question: Where is the best place (Company) in the UK to get a military 'Sankey' trailer ? What is the current cost ? Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov Date: 07 May 97 12:00:47 MST Subject: Age FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 While the "age" issue did start and migrate from the RRO list, it took a new twist when it got here. It was started when a 16 yr old reported how much he loved his D90, and several of his friends owned D90's as well, while his "mum" owned a Disco. I can only assume that this must have been in the UK where older D90's are more common, and affordable. Anyway... the "16 yrs old" thing piqued the interest of someone who wondered what the median age of the list members was. Then everyone started responding... I think it was intended to include how many LR's you owned, so that your age would be "weighted" proportionally to the quantity of LR's you own. So... Dave Brown Age 40, with '70 109 IIa, and '71 88 IIa, and '87 RR. So far, the average "coiler's" age is around 38. Dave Brown I count him braver who overcomes #=======# _____l___ his desires than him who conquers |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___ his enemies; for the hardest victory | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:08:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fwd: Paint --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: Re: Paint Date: 97-05-07 15:01:05 EDT From: RoverNut Wes, You can buy a spray gun from NAPA for about $60 or a cheapo at WalMart for about $25 (no experience with that one), borrow or rent a compressor and hose and you're all set. Ways to save money: don't prime (if there's any original paint on the truck at all) don't clear coat If you can afford it, use an etching primer. It used to be available only in bulk cans, but now you can get it in rattle cans for only $5 per. Five cans will put on a light coat everywhere which is good enough. Use acrylic enamel for your top coat. Original colors can be obtained through ANY car paint store, but you need to bring them the codes. Any of the parts houses can supply you with those. Original custom blended colors can run about $65 a gallon. Regardless of what anyone tells you, a gallon will do it since the top is a different color. If you can make do with stock colors, you will only spend about $35 a gallon. I had Marine Blue mixed up for the body. I felt the original color was worth the expense since it would match the interior. I used a stock color, Wimbledon White, for the top and rims. I'm glad I did. When I switched to 16" rims I bought the same color in rattle cans for $3.25 each. Used with etching primer it made them look...I'm not kidding...brand new. Note: get you rims sand-blasted first. It costs $50, but will make even the crappiest, rustiest rims look fantastic after they are painted. If you don't do it when you paint the truck, save your money and do it right later. It is amazing how good looking rims make or break the overall appearance. Now the bad news: Guys get lots of money to do this job because a) it's tricky at times and b) it's a sucky job. Tape EVERYTHING WELL! Pressurized paint finds its way into every crack, which is good because it makes for an even job, but can cause a ton of work if you need to clean it up later. I worked from Friday 5pm until Sunday 3 pm, every hour it was light and a few when it was dark. I also Bondoed the bad dents, but left the small dings. I would take this step again even if I had to do it 100 more times. If you're gonna do it, suck it up, give up your weekend and do it right. It will take a lot of time even if you're using rattle cans. Also consider: This stuff is cyanide based so you'll need a respirator and goggles. $10 will buy disposables at the NAPA. Paint needs reducer. You'll need over a gallon at $25 per. Buy cheap drop cloths, masking tape (thin and wide) and steal a ton of newspaper. Remember, if you scrimp, it makes for much more work and many errands during the painting. Better to buy it now and return the left-overs. The whole deal cost me under $200 all supplies included and I'm happy as hell with the end results. Sure there are a few drips, it's a bit uneven, hazy in areas, but a guy I know who paints cars was really impressed at my first job. If it were a restored "59 Jag E-type I would be bummed, but it's a Land Rover and this paint job will look much better than most of the ones on the road. Plus you won't have an expensive, poofy show-piece you can't ding up. Good luck and keep in touch, Alex 69 IIA 89 Rangie ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 21:29:52 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Age Regarding age and first vehicles - Me - 1956 my first vehicles in 1973 onwards - Triumpth Herald Mini Cooper Ford Zephyr Ford Cortina Mk.1 (CND rear lights) Morris 1000 Ford Cortina Mk.2 estate Morris Marina VW Camper Ford Transit LADA stationwagon Zastava 800 Ford Cortina Mk.3 VW Camper This curious progression of vehicles took me from 1973 to 1984 at which time I recognised my true colours and aqquired - Land Rover 109" Diesel SIII Hardtop (1976) Land Rover 88" Diesel SIII Hardtop (1979) (Icelander) which, with the exception of a VW LT35D bus for our unit vehicle, have lasted my as trusty friends since 1984 - I don not intend to buy a real car again - a waste of time and money! At 40 I no longer seek "doing the ton" (or is it "tonne"?) as beating the 100 mph barrier used to be called. I am perfectly happy to get up an hour earlier than the rest of our unit, pack my bacon-and-egg-butties, and trondle off in my Series III to location, still getting there well before the others, but having allowed time for those early-morning specialities which the true series driver has learnt to accept, deal with, and even value as part of the charm of it all. For years I have wanted a Range-rover, or even a Defender, but when I look at these wagons of 10-15 years vintage, I do ask myself if it really is worth the extra cash and tax to pack so much mechanics under the bonnet, and not really be able to utilise all that power here in Denmark, a country where cubic capacity equates with higher taxes, but not higher speed. No, I'm now a satisfied and comitted Series III owner/driver and who knows - in 20 years time I may have progressed to Series II or even a Series 1. Now back to painting that radiator grille.... -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 11:37:26 -0500 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Towing Hi All, It seem that with the concern with putting the trans in netural & being tempted to drop the drive shaft. I ask you why not just put the rear(trailing) axles? My brother & I did this last summer to tow his 109 home from NY. It was easy fast & if we had for some reason needed to use the 109 under it own power we could have reinstalled the axles. This seem like the simplest logic to me. Regards, Rob Davis_chicago ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:58:33 -0500 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Re: importing Hi All, When I talked to customs about importing (just dreams) a LR which was not running. Customs told me that a car without an engine still had to pass Emission standards if the transmission was still mounted. At the time I wanted to import a 101 as parts. They were clear that nothing military was allowed in to the USA even as parts. There was a question about privite properity car(not meant for the road) which seemed to be an exception. Be advised that a car comming in from Canada would pass many of the DOT issues(brakes,lights,etc) I was advised to bring in a car from there was easier. This what I was told by a lawyer for customs when I called customs in DC. FYI Regards, Rob davis_chicago ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 16:53:38 -0400 From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com> Subject: D90 leaks on fancy shoes Hi All, This is a posting from my Better Half, Maureen, who is new to the Net & LRO Digest. I told her just to wear Wellies as its sposed to be a LR-- result was one of those Hard Stares--marrried guys will know what I mean. Anyway, over to Maurs... Hi, .I am tired of getting a wet foot every time it rains. Help! In torrential rain, water is coming into the driver's footwell (RHD). I think it may have something to do with the gas pedal and its worse when I go round right hand corners. Any ideas? Maurs ( Defender 90 TDi CSW , Deffi) p.s Mike thinks this is funny but he doesn't have a proper Land Rover -- he's got a Lightweight. Exactly! ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Land Rover "Greens" Date: Wed, 7 May 97 16:26:42 -0500 From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> We've been trying to match a green on a local rover for painting and have run into some minor problems. We'd like to paint it the original "Bronze Green", which actually looks to have faded to more of a "British Racing Green". We do have the paint codes that are available for matching these colors (and the local NAPA auto parts guy said that he can probably cross-match these codes). We have the Du-pont and Ditzler (or PPG) codes. In his paint color reference book there is listed under Land Rover the various colors that rovers were painted way back when and then they list the supposedly perfect current NAPA equivalents. I saw good 'ol Poppy Red, Limestone & Marine Blue, but no Bronze green. His book did however list two other greens that I have not heard of - Arden Green (for years beginning in '64) and Cameron Green for '71-'72. Are these just other names for Bronze green? or are these different colors? Thanks. Keith ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 17:31:41 -0700 From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@webspan.net> Subject: Re: D90 leaks on fancy shoes Hey Maureen; I take it your on the otherside of the "pond"...Well I get the same thing with my NAS D90 (LHD)....The gas pedal leaks, the dash tray well fills with water...The soft top lets in the wonder wet stuff too! The problem is not around the gas pedal...it is somewhere up high and it is leaking down, like somewhere right below where the hood meets the windscreen.... I have attempted silicone sealant...to no avail... This is one of those times when your spouse is right...Suck it up, its a Land Rover!!! Later Matt #2899 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 14:50:27 -0700 (PDT) From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org> Subject: SER Rubber on my Shaft OK. I have no rubber on my steering shaft. Did I mention we're talking about the turn,horn wand on a SIII? It seems that where the wand is mounted the opening that should fit snugly up against the shaft is far to small. There is a notch that is on the column and a tab that corresponds roughly to this notch but no way to mate the two as the column is about 1/2" to large? Curious, it would seem. I don't imagine my shaft swelled. sorry Paul G SIII SWB "Grendal" ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Welding Aluminium Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 08:17:00 +1000 I went to the Caravanning, Camping and 4WD show in Sydney last month. What I did see demonstrated was some aluminium welding by a guy (note I use the word "guy, not "bloke" 'cos this guy was of NAS construction). This stuff seemed exceptionally easy to use using a propane torch to heat the metal to 380 degrees Celsius. It look ideal for use by the home LR / RR repairer. It was called ULTRA BOND. Supposedly Australian made. Has anyone tried it. I'm usually charmed by snake-oil salesmen so I'd like someone else's opinion. I didn't buy any 'cos I was all out of cash having blown it on other stuff. Cost: 5 rods A$10, 12 rods A$20, Postage A$3 Sold by Lavere Products, PO Box 50 Taralga, NSW, Australia 2580. Usual disclaimer. Regards, Ron Beckett 1987 RR 4.8L Emu Plains, Australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 20:11:41 -0500 From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com> Subject: Transporting new frame I'm about to order my new frame and have a bit of a dilemma. I was planning to have it shipped to my workplace, get some of the lads to help me heft it into my pickup, then drive it home. Sounds easy, eh? -How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)? -will it, by any means, fit into/onto my dwarfish Ford Ranger pickup? -should I just eat the $50 residential delivery fee and have it shipped to my home? Ideas? Anecdotes? Warnings? Cheers, Wes Harris '66 88"SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) Date: 07 May 97 19:15:42 +0000 Subject: SER: Oil Coolers?????? From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) What's the consensus of opinion on oil coolers??? I used one on my Mini Cooper, however my Landie is a diesel. I mainly tow a caravan, so I thought it might be beneficial, but a friend reckons it would be a waste of time!! Anyone fitted one to their Landie???? Catch you later, Lenny... 19/5 _____________________________________________________________________________ _______ Lenny Warren, ____/_|(__)| Strathaven, Scotland, UK. |--|__|_--_| __ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________ _____________________________________________________________________________ ... Kryten: Sir, a couple of brief points: firstly, you're not a qualified ... service engineer, and, consequently, sawing me in two will invalidate ... my guarantee; secondly, I wouldn't trust you to open a can of sardines ... that was already open. --- Terminate 4.00/Pro -- | Fidonet: Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12 | Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) Date: 07 May 97 19:17:47 +0000 Subject: SER: Metric V Imperial From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be Whitworth, AF, or Metric?????? BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. Catch you later, Lenny... 20/5 _____________________________________________________________________________ _______ Lenny Warren, ____/_|(__)| Strathaven, Scotland, UK. |--|__|_--_| __ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________ _____________________________________________________________________________ ... Convince visitors you are a cat lover by taking a razor blade to your ... furniture and urinating regularly behind your settee. --- Terminate 4.00/Pro -- | Fidonet: Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12 | Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 10:48:11 -0700 From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Welding Aluminium Beckett, Ron wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > I went to the Caravanning, Camping and 4WD show in [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)] > 1987 RR 4.8L > Emu Plains, Australia Well, it seems these guys are everywhere! One brought some rods to work and demo'ed the glory of fixing holes in pop cans. Worked great. Couldn't even put a hole back in the same place. Price was really high too. I didn't buy any cause all he had was order forms for it. Later that night at home I looked through my 600 lbs of welding rods that I got from the farmer I bought my arc welder from. Found a box (5 lbs) 24" 5/32" aluminium rods and tried it. Worked great, but when I tried to weld on a thick piece of stuff, 14 ga and on a LR panel scrap I had here, well, it just don't work. The heat is not right, the metel is different and it really is discouraging to see the hole get bigger! But someday, I could probably get a job at the local recyler fixing all those pop cans for reuse! Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Marc Obrowski <Obrowski@siemens.com.au> Subject: long spring shackles Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 13:20:00 +1000 I know this subject has already come up some time ago as a search of the archive revealed, but I could not find my answers there. SIII LWB Hard Top: I have a pair of long front suspension spring shackles laying around (I believe they are used in Australian Army Land Rovers). I want to fit them, without changing the spring hangers at the front end of the front springs (I know the gain in ground clearance is going to be only half of what the shackles are longer). Two question I have there: 1. The angle of the front axle will be slightly different (the rear end of the spring goes down and the front end stays where it is). Will the universal joint (which then is slightly less straight) have any problem with that? 2. These shackles have 3 bores, one on each end and one in the middle. The normal ones only have bores at the ends where they attach to spring and chassis respectively. They came with a sort of bushing in the middle bore. Is this just meant to be a replacement bushing and goes to one end, or does it stay in the middle bore to give some extra stability? Any other comment on how to gain some ground clearance the painless way (unfortunately I don't have the time and tools to go into heavy chassis welding jobs) would be nice. Cheers ---- -- marc obrowski melbourne, australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 23:40:23 -0400 From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca> Subject: Re: Transporting new frame At 20:11 97-05-07 -0500, you wrote: >I'm about to order my new frame and have a bit of a dilemma. I was planning -to have it shipped to my workplace, get some of the lads to help me heft it >into my pickup, then drive it home. Sounds easy, eh? >-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)? - >-will it, by any means, fit into/onto my dwarfish Ford Ranger pickup? >-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)? --should I just eat the $50 residential delivery fee and have it shipped to >my home? >-How manageable is this thing to move (ie, how many bodies needed to lift)? -Ideas? Anecdotes? Warnings? >my home? - >From your .sig, I believe that you are talking about a SWB frame. It weights about 250 pounds and can be carried by two guys. However, lifting up into a pick-up could be a tidy bit dangerous for your backs. The frame is about 5' by 12'. I don't know how big the box of your pick-up is, but I believe that a good deal of the frame will stick out. Better tie it down tight! A good advice is to measure the dimensions of the pick-up box before attempting anything with such a big lump. Personnally, I would pay the extra 50$ to save the trouble and possible injuries. Mon opinion, Michel Bertrand ______ Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, / __ / \ 1963 109 PU (Rudolph) | Lucas | 1968 109 SW (in the works) | Inside | 1973 88 SW (21st century project) \ / \______/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:53:05 -0700 (PDT) From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper) Subject: Sighting Saw a defender 110 in Seattle on Friday, went around a corner and saw a defender 90 parked. Proceeded up another street and saw another defender 90 heading toward me (not in my series at this time). One of the defender 90's had Oregon plates. Lucky day, John Cooper 1969 11a ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter) Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 23:57:57 -0400 Subject: Re: Transporting new frame moving frames...piece of cake; two guys with reasonably healthy backs can wrestle a SWB frame into the back of a 8' pickup bed and it will hang out just over the tailgate. it needs to be tied down securely as the cg will be biased toward the open end of the pickup bed. best bet is to cajole a friend with a ten foot landscaping trailer to come by (they're lower and you don't have to pick it up so high...don't know if i would try it in the back of a ford ranger the bed's a little short and the frame will be balancing around a point uncomfortably close to the end of the truck. last frame i carted around was my 88's and i used my trailer made from the back of a 8' bed dodge truck with the rear x-member hung over the front lip of the bed and the frame in the trailer upside down. mark ritter and i loaded and unloaded it by ourselves but three warm bodies make it easy. jack walter ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 21:10:50 -0700 From: jory bell <jory@mit.edu> Subject: Re: Transporting new frame i transported my new frame from RN several hundred miles in the back of a uhaul. worked just fine. also put a willy's jeep in there with it on the same trip to share the uhaul expenses. that whole trip was quite amusing, some of which i will have to recount once the statuate of limitations expires. ::jory ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter) Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 00:13:04 -0400 Subject: Re: Chateau Elan Meet scott, and all other interested parties; British Motorcar Day, 1997 will be the fourteenth annual charity fundraiser sponsored by all of the Atlanta area British car clubs. It will be held from 10-4 on saturday May 10 at Chateau Elan just west of I-85 at exit 48 (about 35 miles NE of the I-285 x I-85 interchange). Registration for day of the event is $15 for the first vehicle, $5 per each additional british machine (some people bring more than one! enlist a friend to drive your other pride & joy). SPECATORS GET IN FREE! (We figure this way we'll infect other potential owners and get more entrants next year) so far over 230 cars are preregistered including about thirty Morgans and we generally get as many day of event registrations as preregistered cars so we're looking at about 500 cars this year...weather looks good for saturday; 70 degrees and partly cloudy...see you there! figure about an hour and fifteen minutes from windy hill if in a series rover; about an hour if in a coiler. jack walter ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: SER: Metric V Imperial Date: Thu, 8 May 97 8:44:43 BST > Can someone advise? My Landie is a 1980, will most of the bolts be > Whitworth, AF, or Metric?????? Mine's '73, as far as I can tell, it has all 3! > BTW, what is the difference between Whitworth, AF, etc. etc. Metric are measured in mm. AF are measured in fractions of an inch (16ths I think). Whitworth gets a bad press round here, cos it doesn't seem to follow any plan. Mr. Whitworth was actually a very cunning bloke, who came up with the very first standard set of screw/bolt/sizes. Blatantly obvious these days, but during the Industrial Revolution, every machine shop used its own sizes... Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:49:39 -0400 From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net> Subject: HELP!!! '65 109" SW CLUTCH PROBLEMS If you have any suggestions on how I could remedy my clutch problems, please help. E-mail or read my posting on Rovers North Bulletin Board and post suggestions. Symptoms: Clutch pedal is hard to push down, it's not the spring. Clutch engages tranny too close to the floor. Clutch releases too harshly, often with a clunk and even with concentrated, slow release. When I engage the clutch, I have to wait a solid two seconds before I can shift either into 1st or 2nd gear. If I do it quicker, the teeth will grind in the tranny. Please tell me this is a clutch thing and not a tranny problem. It doesn't do it going into 3rd or 4th gear, though. Well that's it. Just drove this Rover from Seattle to Fairbanks in about 63 hours. Does anyone have an e-mail address for Mike Goss? Thanks alot for your help. My wifes's holding my Ser III hostage until I get her Love Wagon up to par. She says she'll name it after she take's receipt. Hey Brit Pac, I payed too much, huh? A lovers heart often wins out over his head, Bren. Bren Workman bworkman@alaska.net (907) 356-3947 '72 88" SW "Tilly" '65 109" SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970508 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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