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From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 07:49:54 -0400
Subject: L-Rs for Sale...

     ...Two guys asked me for the phone #s.  I've sent them to Brian, but I 
     can't find the other request.  Please let me know who you are again 
     and I will be happy to pass them along.
     
     Hank

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 07:47:50 -0400
Subject: Steering boxes - repair nightmare?

Mr. Churchill is at present wearing a Series III steering box and wheel,
rather than the lyre wheel with horn push that is his right.

I've acquired another early IIa box that could easily go in its stead.

Before I rip the wing off and put this mugger in, is there anything I can
do to check it out and make sure it's not shot? it had plenty of oil in it
when I acquired it, so I don't think it's worn out. I'm also planning on
checking the throw in the bearings to make sure it's OK.

Should I re-gasket it?

                    Al" I hate not having a proper horn push"r

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:43:44 +0000
Subject: TEFLON

>I am going to do my 2000 kilometer / 3 month oil change in June.  I
>bought one of those Slick 50 teflon type oil additive when I was in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>21,000 original kilometers, and uses a Crossland cartridge oil
>filter.

The AA stripped down a couple of engines at 100k to test out this 
stufff. They couldnt find ANY trace of teh Teflon on ANY surface in 
the engine and teh wear patterns were the same as on untreated 
angines. They concluded that there were no advantages to teflon 
treatment. Hardly surprising when you think of how soft teflon is and 
how much shear foorce it would have to withstand to saty on engine 
surfaces.

BUT motorcycle tests in similar manner had bits of teflon clogging 
teh oilways as it detached from the engine surfaces and trashed the 
engine. I'd not put it in my engine.

No specific references forthe m/c tests cos I cant rememebr em - but teh AA tests are 
availabe for the asking for AA members,

[Folk put it in rattlly engines to quiten em down just befoe sellling 
it..... X-b,         but I think this is more to do with thickening the oil up than 
anything else - Slick50 is gloopy stuff......]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 07:03:23 -0500
From: Clare & Lee Dunkelberg <clarelee@smart1.net>
Subject: SA Diplomat

Actually, weuns in Texas can split into about five different states,
should we so desire.  Some damn Yankees who whupped up on our ancestors
(when they weren't looking!) say we got to stay in the union.
To date, it has been to the union's benefit.
However, private, LR-equipped armies are welcome, and would have a good
time chasing through some of the mountains.  Fortunately, for the
felonius, the police (poe'-lease) only have J**ps!  Some have H*****s,
but most know the words.

Adios,

Lee D.
San Antonio
94 - D90*
91 - RR**
*we got a deal.
**we got another deal
(an embarrasment of riches!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:22:57 -0400
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: Re: SA Diplomat

Lee Wrote;
Actually, weuns in Texas can split into about five different states,
should we so desire.  Some damn Yankees who whupped up on our ancestors
(when they weren't looking!) say we got to stay in the union.
To date, it has been to the union's benefit.>However, private, LR-equipped
armies are welcome, and would have a good
time chasing through some of the mountains.  Fortunately, for the
felonius, the police (poe'-lease) only have J**ps!  Some have H*****s,
but most know the words.

Adios,

Everyone gets a bit routy after Cinco de Mayo...  Wish I still lived in Tucson.
I hear they have a nice LR gang.

end
74 SIII 88 (Chester)  178,000+
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin some
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:29:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Series III Reversing Light

Funny enough, I remember seeing this in a not-too-distant copy of LRO.

The switch is a simple pushbutton, placed in the shifter mount bracket and
actuated by the reverse gear sliding rod assembly.

What the installation entails is either replacing the bracket that the
shifter and mount assembly bolt to with a newer one, or drilling and
tapping a hole in the present bracket to accomodate the switch for the
reverse light. Then, all you need to do is to run a switched 12-volt lead
to the reversing switch you've just mounted, then down the chassis to the
reversing light.

As you're in the UK, hunting up a bracket from a late IIa or early III with
the switch already in place might be the easiest option. You'll need to
pull the floor up as well as the transmission tunel to do this, but other
than that it's a simple nuts-and-bolts affair.

               Good luck, and have fun!

               Alan R.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:39:41 -0400
From: reynoldsg@tfn.com (Geoffrey Reynolds)
Subject: Re: ARB for RR Website?
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>Anyone know of a website that shows an ARB front bumper for a Range 
>Rover installed?  Or any ARB bumper for that matter?

If you call ARB USA at 206-284-5906 (Seattle, WA) they'll send you 
information on everything they have for your Range Rover.  You might 
ask specifically for the full line catalog, as there is a lot of stuff 
available that they don't bring into the USA (but you can get through 
other channels).  I've spoken with them several times, and they've 
always been extremely helpful.

Jeff
95 Beluga Black Discovery SE-7
Safari Gard Roof Rack on order...

--IMA.Boundary.707229268--

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:21:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Steering boxes - repair nightmare?

In a message dated 97-05-06 07:53:30 EDT, you write:

<< I've acquired another early IIa box that could easily go in its stead.
 
 Before I rip the wing off and put this mugger in, is there anything I can
 do to check it out and make sure it's not shot? it had plenty of oil in it
 when I acquired it, so I don't think it's worn out. I'm also planning on
 checking the throw in the bearings to make sure it's OK.
  >>

Hi Al,

When I rebuilt the brick, I brought the IIa steering box to a very reputable
shop (services only British and Italian cars of all ages...they've been on
Motortrend several times and the owner drives an early SIIa).  He told me the
only way to really check them is to open them up check (and usually replace)
the bearings and the bearing surfaces.  The other innards don't wear out to
any appreciable level but the bearings do.  In my case, the entire inner
column would have needed replacement (the races for the bearings were
completely shot) so it was about as cheap to buy a new box.

Good Luck

Nate
(I still have the old one if you need other parts for the box--its a later
version IIa box, not the early IIa)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:27:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: LR Sighting

I have another Land Rover sighting for the list. Last night (Mon. 5th) there
was a movie on NBC called "Invasion" something about aliens taking over the
world (I didn't get to watch it cause I was working on my Rover) anyway the
bad guys are in a airplane hanger standing in front of a NAS D90, looked
like a Beluga Black.

Keith Elliott

1961 Ser II 88  "Ol' Yeller"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:34:53 -0500
From: clantoc@ebs.ac.com (Chris Clanton - Via)
Subject: Towing

This thread might have been beaten to death before, but...

I will be towing my "new" 1970 88" from Miami back to Minneapolis
at the end of May.  The tow vehicle will be a '97 Blazer (couldn't
afford the Disco!), with a U-Haul dolly behind.  Any towing tips?
Do I need to disconnect anything or just make sure the tranny is
in neutral?

Thanks for any advice.

-cjc

               
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Christopher J.  Clanton  +   e-mail:	clantoc@ebs.ac.com
+ Andersen Consulting      +   Work:	(612) 317-7523
+ 333 South Seventh St.    +   Fax:	(612) 317-7575
+ Minneapolis, MN 55402    +   
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:49:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Dual-Matic Hubs (was Re: ID of Front Hubs)

Don,

>The hubs  each have two "arms" that have to be unfolded, then rotated 180
>degrees and nested back into the surface of the hub in order to "lock 'em
>in".  The hubs come straight out from the axle, about 4" across and have a
>very flat face broken on by the heads of the attachment bolts and these "arms".

You've been told that they are Dual-Matics with steel bodies and
Select-Matics with aluminum bodies.  I know them as Dual-Matics and have a
set on one of my project-to-be-done-someday Land-Rovers.  They were pretty
common at one time.  As far as I know, the only source of parts for them now
would be parting out another set of hubs.  I've had several pairs and have
seen a number of differences in them.  I've had both aluminum and steel
bodies.  

More important than the composition of the body is the composition of the
drive piece inside.  Some have steel and some have alloy (aluminum? pot
metal?) drive pieces.  This drive piece is sort of a six-spoke sprocket with
half-round dishes between the "teeth," with its engagement gained by the two
barrels or shafts that are attached to the lever arms on the outside.  These
barrels have a flat cut-out side that allows disengagement when turned
flat-side-in.  One obvious shortcoming is that it's quite possible to have
only one barrel engaged which puts tremendous strain on the drive piece,
especially if it's the alloy type.  When these hubs are old, worn, and
dirty, it's often very difficult to read the engraved labels saying whether
they are in or out.  Another possible cause of failure is that the lever
arms are held in place by detents which can wear out, allowing the arms to
come loose and swing around, possibly disengaging.

My experience with this is that my first Land-Rover had a pair of these
which had the alloy bodies and alloy drive pieces.  At some time in the
past, the right hub had apparently been run with only one arm engaged with
the consequence that the drive piece was cracked.  Under heavy loads it
would spread, allowing its inside splines (which engage the stub axle) to
skip and wear.  Eventually I found that the front axle was not driving
consistently.  Investigating, I found the cause I've just described.  I had
to replace the stub axle as well as the hubs.  I bought a new pair of Fairey
hubs which I loved but which, alas, are also no longer available new.

My advice to anyone who has these hubs is to disassemble them to make sure
that you have the steel drive pieces and that they are not cracked.  Be very
careful that both barrels are either engaged or disengaged.  Make sure the
detents are working so that the levers stay where they belong.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:52:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Alum-a-weld, Triple C catalog

Has anyone had any experience with a low heat, no flux aluminium welding rod,
which can be used with just a propane torch? My father-in-law showed me a
sample of some welding he and a friend did with such a product obtained from
J C Whitney (six rods for 6 bucks), and which sounded like a product called
Alum-a-weld ( I think thats the name) I saw in LRO some time ago. The welding
I saw was two pieces of alum pipe butt welded. It seemed quite strong ( I
tried to break it and couldnt, but maybe could have in a vise with some
leverage applied :>) ). Sounds like just the thing for DIY Birmabrite repair.
Cheers Andy Blackley
PS I also got the new Triple C catalog yesterday - lots of neat LR models,
signs, post cards etc.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 10:56:55 -0500
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Towing

Chris Clanton - Via wrote:

 
> I will be towing my "new" 1970 88"  with a U-Haul dolly behind.  Any towing tips?
> Do I need to disconnect anything or just make sure the tranny is
> in neutral?

My manual for my SIII 88 1973 says transfer case in neutral, main box in
neutral.
The plate on my bulkhead says t-case neutral, gear box in forth.  Go
figure.  I tow mine all the time with the latter configuration all
wheels on ground (FWH disengaged).

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:14:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Alum-a-weld, Triple C catalog

Andy,

I've seen guys demonstrate that stuff at local gun shows (welding cans
together,etc.), and it seems to be pretty neat stuff...however it requires
LOTS of practice. A friend of mine tried it once, and couldn't weld the rod
to itself!

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:22:02 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

Hmmm.
42 in July
First car was a '62 88PU purchased in '74.
First car I could legally drive on the road was a '73 88 purchased in 
'76 for $1800 which I sold in '78 for $3100 ($100 more than I was 
asking) to buy a '78 BMW R80/S
At the same time, I bought my NADA 109 with a bad tranny for $600 and 
a 67 88 with a bad engine. I still have the 109 which I started 
restoring in '82 (one of *those* projects).
I'm currently driving a Lightweight I bought in '86.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 16:32:23 +0100 (BST)
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Lightweight 30th Anniversary

Todd writes:
>Shiny paint!? The only way a military Land Rover ever gets even close to 
>shiny paint is the semi-annual "rubdown" of diesel fuel ;-). What I dont 
>believe about your above statement though is the use of the "chr" word in 

Some years ago, the Oldham TA repainted their Land Rovers, but ran out of
matt black paint towards the end. They improvised by mixing large quantities
of foot powder with some gloss black. The results looked OK in daylight, but
at night when illuminated by headlights, the black stripes were found to
have unsuspected light-reflecting properties.

________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:25:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: SER Turn,dimmer,horn wand

The wand assembly on my SIII does not fit snugly against the steering shaft.
Consequently I must manually turn the signal off after a turn as the ring that
rotates does not connect with the trip switches.  I can find only one type of
series III wand assemblies so I figure it is mounted improperly or the shaft is
not original.  Any ideas?

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 09:49:47 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

This thread has drifted over from RRO?

Age:  31
First Car:  Parents let me drive my stepdad's* '74 Lincoln Mark IV (they
felt it was safe).
First LR:   '96 Disco SD (currently the wife's wheels)

C
'65 SIIA 88" SW
'96 Disco SD
*  My stepdad owned the first LR I knew:  a white '62 IIA 88" HT.  He
kept it at my parents' lake house, and I almost killed him when he sold
it for $2K (it was in near-mint condition) in '95.  If any of you have a
white '62 IIA with the seats recovered in red and purchased it in '95 in
Oklahoma, then you have my Rover ;-)!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 12:52:17 -0400
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Chateau Elan Meet

Can someone provide any info regarding the Chateau Elan Meet near Atlanta
this weekend?  How many Rovers show up?  I've about decided I may just up
and go.  Please e-mail direct - I'm in Digest mode.  Thanks,

Scott Fugate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:11:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: 109==>130 tops

Greetings all,

I just have an odd question.  Is there a standard conversion to take a
109 station wagon to a "crew cab" 4-seat hardtop with a canvas top over
the bed?  (Similar to a 130 crewcab)?  If this is a standard conversion,
are parts available commercially or is this a "get out the tin snips and
welding/epoxy equipment" conversion?

Any thoughts or information would be greatly appreciated!

Power to the Rovers,
Steve

	_________________________________
	|_______|_______|_______|_______|	"Moose"
	|   ____________    |	   |	\\	'73 III 88"
	|  /  	  |	\   |  	   |	 \\      ________
     	|  |	  |	|   |	   |	  \\    |        |
	|  \______|_____/   |______|_______\\___|________|__
	|___________________|_______________|---------------\
	|  []    []    []   |		    | 0		    |)
	|                   |--]	    |               |		
       _|    /	 OOOOO      |		    |      OOOOO    |__
      |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____|
	   0  OO o 0 o OO			OO o 0 o OO
	       OO  o  OO     "Tread Lightly"     OO  o  OO
              	 OOOOO				   OOOOO
       		           Florida Rover Canvas
	Steve Swiger   
	swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
	

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:09:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Alum-a-weld, Triple C catalog

Alumaweld:

There are several different brands of this stuff, the most common here in
Massachusetts being made by BernzOMatic (the same folks who make the
propane torches).

It's a stick of pure zinc, basically. The secret to using this stuff to
repair Birmabright or any other aluminum item is cleanliness, cleanliness,
cleanliness and NOT using carbon-steel tools for working the aluminum
piece. Carbon steel contaminates the surfaces and the rod won't bond. For
small to moderate work a propane torch is adequate, but will take a while
to bring the item to temperature.

What you need to do for this is to buy a stainless-steel wirebrush, MARK IT
SPECIFICALLY FOR THIS WORK, and clean the mating surfaces of the aluminum
with it. Then heat the aluminum from the underside till it gets hot enough
to flow the zinc, and it will then wick into the joint.

I've used this to patch drilled holes in body panels quite successfully,
also to fabricate small items and reattach snapped brackets on aluminum
items. The strength on a properly-prepared joint is quite good.

                    Alan R.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:17:06 -0400
Subject: Re: SER Turn,dimmer,horn wand

Re: Floppy wand:

I am not going anywhere near this one.....8*)

Your problem is a missing rubber, I think. The clamps on these units
typically were designed to take a strip of rubber between the clamp and the
steering column. Yours is either not there, or has compressed beyond
usefulness.

A strip of bicycle innertube, trimmed neatly to fit under the clamp should
do the trick.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:36:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

>Age:  31

Me Too...

>First Car:  Parents let me drive my stepdad's* '74 Lincoln Mark IV (they

First car:  '74 Chevy Sportvan 20 "Sweet Pea", inherited (commandeered?)
from my parents.  Miss her dearly.

First LR:   '59 88" in '90.  Traded in on my '59 109". 

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Subject: Robin Hoods Bay.
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:40:04 +0100
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Are any of you going to the LRO weekend at Robin Hoods Bay this weekend. =
I don't have a Landie at the moment, but my Mum & Dad live about 5 mins =
from the farm, so I'll be popping along with my dogs, to see what fun =
your all having.
Hope to see some of you there.
Mark & dogs.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC5A5D.AD6D2180
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY>
<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Are any of you going to the LRO weekend =
at Robin
Hoods Bay this weekend. I don't have a Landie at the moment, but my Mum =
&amp;
Dad live about 5 mins from the farm, so I'll be popping along with my =
dogs, to
see what fun your all having.</FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hope to see some of you there.</FONT>

<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mark &amp; dogs.</FONT></P>

</BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 17:32:57 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

My sister got into an accident when she was 16.  She was parking my
fathers Discovery (was mine) when some women in a caddy tried to cut
infront of her.  Since my sister was a new inexperienced driver, she
paniced and slammed on the gas pedal instead of the break.  Well, she
pretty much distroyed the entire left side of the womens caddy.  The
Land Rover on the other hand just had a bent brush bar.

Rover On,
David L Glaser         '94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu   '94 Discovery, Teal, bent brushbar

------------------------------

From: DocBarbay@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 18:01:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Disco offer for Digesters

Sorry to post this solicitation, but some may find it unique. I'm posting
this for a friend who's email is down. He's got a '96 Disco SE, Altai Silver
with gray leather, w/13k mi for sale in Boston. He would prefer to sell to
someone associated with the LRO/RRO Digest, and would entertain offering it
at a discounted price (versus the $31.5k published in local papers) to a
digest subscriber. So, if any wannabe Disco owners are lurking on the list,
please send me an email, and I'll put you in touch. He's reluctantly parting
with it because he needs to raise add'l cash for a startup he's trying to get
going. 

Thanks,

Jack Barbay
docbarbay@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 23:09:54 +0100
From: jon collins <jonathan.collins@virgin.net>
Subject: gas conversion

Has anybody converted a landy or rangy to gas? Two friends are 
considering changing over. If anybody does have any experiences of this 
please could you cantact me (direct or over the forum)

Cheers, Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 18:17:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Don't loan your truck to anyone-Darwin Award Candidate (fwd)

No Land-Rover content, but interesting anyway.

Darwin award candidate
>Michigan, USA.
>     Guy buys brand new Grand Cherokee for 30 some thousand dollars and 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 55 lines)]
> explosives is not covered.  He had yet to make the first of those 400+ 
> a month payments.
>     I felt pretty sorry for the dog myself.

Gee, for thirty grand I could buy at least a dozen series vehicles. What a
waste.
               Regards,   Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Towing
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 22:42:51 +0000

At 03:56 PM 5/6/97 +0000, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Chris Clanton - Via wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Chris Clanton - Via wrote:
>> I will be towing my "new" 1970 88"  with a U-Haul dolly behind.  Any
towing tips?
>> Do I need to disconnect anything or just make sure the tranny is
>> in neutral?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>wheels on ground (FWH disengaged).
>RE:
Towing series rover
Bulkhead plate is correct....
T-case in neutral.... trans in 4th
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Painting Birmabright
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 23:07:47 +0000

To paint any al. or galvinized metal several paint companies sell what is
called? You gussed it aluminiun or galvanized metal primer. I got mine at HQ
and LOWES. These are todays answer to ye' olde hardware shoppe. After using
these primers they recommend using a regular metal primer before putting on
the color coat(s).These are the original TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY CHEMICALS, so
use a RESPIRATOR and NO SMOKING!!!!!!! If on the other hand your Landy still
has most of the original paint this isn't necessary. Just sand (400 or so
grit wet or dry paper) and paint. I used this method the first time I
repainted Vicky, that was about 1976 or maybe 1978. When I started my most
recent renovation most (about 90%) of the rustoleum was still attached to
the metal albet some what weathered. I am using polythurathane -oil paint
this time and also the foam brushes, buy good ones and they last better than
cheap but they are still throw away after one use.I am also thinning about
5% and using the up and down stroke. This was in one of the mags (LRO)
several years ago it's called carrage painting. Just remember to sand
lightly between coats same grit and paper type as above. GOOD LUCK!

Jim Wolf sIIa 109 sw Vicky
Keep On (Land-Rover) Truchin'
still, digital photographer
Portsmouth, VA USA

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Average Age - new average calculated
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 09:46:00 +1000

The average age of the 41 respondents is 38.46.  If we
add in Will Jansen's young mates and his Mum (all of whom
I assume are not subscribers to the list) the average is 37.59

It would be interesting to see the figures for the LRO list.
Are Series owners older than coil-sprung owners?  Are they
also more Serie(ou)s (Sorry about that).
Questions, questions

Regards.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 19:53:31 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Towing

> I will be towing my "new" 1970 88" from Miami back to Minneapolis
> at the end of May.  The tow vehicle will be a '97 Blazer (couldn't
> afford the Disco!), with a U-Haul dolly behind.  Any towing tips?
> Do I need to disconnect anything or just make sure the tranny is
> in neutral?

The straps on the dolly may not be long enough to go around the tires as
intended. Just make sure they don't have grit on them, thread between
the brake hoses and axle, and secure. They will bear on the swivel
balls, so if you're concerned about any grit pad with clean rags.

For a 2000 mile tow I'd be very, very tempted to unbolt the u-joint at
the rear differential and securely wire the propshaft up and out of the
way. Towing with the transfer case in neutral should be fine but...

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Average Age - new average calculated
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:12:00 +1000

Further to the info below - the breakup is as follows

Teenagers  = 3
Twenties = 4 (most late-20)
Thirties  = 17 (most mid-30)
Forties = 14 (most mid-40)
Fifties = 2 (very early-50s)
Sixties = 3 (extremely early-60s)

Ron
 ----------
From: Beckett, Ron
Subject: Average Age - new average calculated
Date: Wednesday, 7 May 1997 9:28AM

The average age of the 41 respondents is 38.46.  If we
add in Will Jansen's young mates and his Mum (all of whom
I assume are not subscribers to the list) the average is 37.59

It would be interesting to see the figures for the LRO list.
Are Series owners older than coil-sprung owners?  Are they
also more Serie(ou)s (Sorry about that).
Questions, questions

Regards.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:47:34 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: More Zenith bits

Bill Kowalski wrote:

>...take a look at the float bowl valve assembly. I found mine quite worn
>and replaced it with a p/n EZ-403 Grose-Jet, sells for a mere $6.00 from
>D & G Valve....

Good point, Bill.  Something I hadn't mentioned, though I've seen it on mine 
and two others that I've rebuilt, is the float itself.  The thin brass of 
the float arm is softer than the brass cross pin, so you get eliptical holes 
worn in the float arm.  Soooo, if your Rover runs poorly when you turn in 
one direction, but is fine in the other - basically a schizophrenic 
personality - suspect the float arm.  I replaced my "new" one with the float 
out of the original carb.

And to the folks who lost the original post...here it is once again:  There 
are two ports/passages on the top flange of the bottom half of the carb.  
(Got that?)  Located about 1/4" apart, these are found just above the vacuum 
fitting to the distributor.  Plug the one closest to the so-called "mixture 
screw" - the slow running adjustment screw.  It works wonders.

And for all those for whom this fix gets 'em back on the road, I accept gold 
Maple Leafs, Kruggerands, bearer bonds, gems and bullion.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Salomon198@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 21:11:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Defenders for sale? also SIII SWB's

Hi

I have been looking to get a Defender 90, but also 
don't want to have to pay $29,000 for something with 
40K miles. Can anyone help me. The dealer in Mass. 
New England seems to be quit high also. Does anyone
have one they are selling?

P.S. - Would possibly buy a SIII if it is in ok condition. 

------------------------------

From: Salomon198@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 21:11:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: importing

Hi

I have run in to a problem, I am going over to England in July.
While I am over there I could easily buy a Landy cheep.
My fathers father has a garage and could practicly give me
a Land Rover of my choose. I now this all sounds great and
you'r all going to be asking how to get in on it but I 
don't understand how I could import a landy new or old
legally. If any has any information or can put me in contact
with someone who does it would be greatly apperiacted!
My Uncle tryed to import 2 Land Roves and both were taken
by customs, he had to pay a lot of money to get them back
and he thought the was doing it the legal way.

-Salomon198@aol.com    

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 20:21:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Scott Fugate <sfugate@mail.tds.net>
Subject: Rear Pinion Seal

Anybody got a cross-over number (Federal-Mogul, say) for the rear pinion
seal on an 88?  Please e-mail me at work -  m8f@ornl.gov.  Need to pick one
up soon - just decided on a 500 mile RT this weekend, and mine's tossing a
bit of oil already.  Thanks,

Scott Fugate

------------------------------

Subject: Rover painting...Again
Date: Tue, 6 May 97 20:59:14 -0500
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Hi All-
I was wondering if anyone had any experience painting their rover with an 
"airless"-type sprayer like a Wagner power sprayer (possibly even one of 
the higher grade Wagners, like the professional series).  If so, do you 
know if the common auto paints can be run through these type of sprayers. 
 You know the paints that the rover parts dealers will give you the codes 
for mixing at the local auto paint shops.  They even sell one power 
sprayer lately called a "Fine Touch" sprayer that could look promising.?

I have gotten alot of good info from folks about hand painting rovers 
with marine type paints (polyeurethane enamels), but have had alot of 
difficulty finding any of these types of paints locally, including the 
"Brush Ease" and other products that were recommended.  A few people said 
they may be able to order these paints, but mixing to try to match a 
rover color was not possible.

Thanks for any tips you can offer.  I'm putting this information together 
for our club newsletter as we have had some Series owners as of late 
wanting to "Paint the Birmabright".

Thanks,
Keith

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*                  "Arkansas Land Rover Association"                    *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*                         & an old Series IIA                           *
*                                                                       *
*Visit our club's page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 22:08:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: From HRH's web site:

Got this from the Queen's FAQ page. (www.royal.gov.uk/):

<<<What cars do The Queen and the Royal family use?

The Queen's State and private motor cars are housed in the Royal Mews. 
For official duties - providing transport for State and other visitors 
as well as The Queen herself - there are seven State limousines, 
consisting of five Rolls-Royces and two Daimlers. They are painted in 
Royal maroon livery and the Rolls-Royces uniquely do not have 
registration number plates. 
The most important State car is the Rolls-Royce Phantom VI, presented to 
The Queen in 1978 for her Silver Jubilee by the Society of Motor 
Manufacturers and Traders. The oldest car in the fleet is the Phantom 
IV, built in 1948, 5.76 litre with a straight eight engine and a 
Mulliner body. There is also a 1987 Phantom VI and two identical Phantom 
V models built in the early 1960s. 

The Queen has her own mascot for use on official cars. Designed for her 
by the artist Edward Seago in the form of St George on a horse poised 
victorious over a slain dragon, it is made of silver and can be 
transferred from car to car as necessary. The Duke of Edinburgh's 
mascot, a heraldic lion wearing a crown, is adapted from his arms. 

For her private use The Queen drives a Daimler Jaguar saloon or a 
Vauxhall estate; The Duke of Edinburgh has a Range Rover and, for short 
journeys round London, uses a Metrocab. The private cars are painted 
Edinburgh green.>>>

Thought they had more Solihull products. The LR books make it seem like they
use them a lot, here The Duke just *has a Range Rover*. Hmmm. James Taylor,
please update the Queen's FAQ page as necessary.

pat "just has a 110 (and nothing else)" parsons
93 non-royal 110

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 May 97 22:55:14 +0000
Subject: SER. How to wire Hazard lights????

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

My landie is a 1980, so doesn't have hazard lights, 4 indicators at one 
time! Any idea how easy it is to wire up???? 
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  4/5
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                         _______ 
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_| 
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________
_____________________________________________________________________________

 
... Girl... "lro@land-rover.team.net, the man next to me is playing with
... himself!! lro@land-rover.team.net... "Ignore him!"   Girl... "I can't,
... he's using MY hand!!! :-O
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 23:52:20 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: importing

A common question:
> I don't understand how I could import a landy new or old
> legally. If any has any information or can put me in contact
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> by customs, he had to pay a lot of money to get them back
> and he thought the was doing it the legal way.

Assuming you want to import it into the U.S., make sure you can prove it
is 25 years old or older. For more information visit Bill C's excellent
discussion in Part V of the LR FAQ at:
http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 00:05:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Age and First Cars

OOOOOO-K, here goes:
First Rover: 69 2000TC in '76, 77. Got a rusty Canadian P6b and sold the TC.
3500 finally rusted til it wasn't safe, but what fun we had till then! First
LR, 69 swb, drove it from Charleston to Atlanta in pouring rain, when my
daughters were very young. They were terrified, I tried to convince them it
was a great adventure. Next came my SD1, in 91 and 92, sold it to make way
for Pansy, which is currently for sale. And of course, there's old '502. Hope
springs eternal, as long as I have the number plates and the paperwork, and a
few old bits. I'd like a grey market RR, next.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"  **FS, send for info!**
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 21:54:14 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Rover painting...Again

Keith W. Cooper wrote:

> I was wondering if anyone had any experience painting their rover with an
> "airless"-type sprayer...

Wow! This thread is unbelievable. Brushes, sponges, sanding, sputter
guns, what next? Spray the beast and be done with it. You'll save enough
time to wax it a half dozen times - or not!

Cheers, Greg - who'd rather do anything than paint

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 01:33:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: importing

I shouldn't say this, BUT...

You can legally import a newer Land Rover, PROVIDED that it's imported as a
"parts car", and not in a running condition. This will get you around DOT and
EPA.

Now, before all of you go out, and buy Land Rovers in England, what they mean
by a "parts Car", is simply that the engine/transmission MUST be removed from
the vehicle, OR having a vehicle with an obviously blown engine (rods
sticking out the side,etc.) will suffice. 

How you get it registered when you re-assemble it however, is your problem,
though keep in mind, that diesels upto a certain point, are exempt from
emissions testing.

You can import a newer truck in running condition, provided that it's a
diesel, ant not newer than the year they started emissions testing on them
(since Land Rover never imported any to the USA), BUT, the truck must also
have the U.S. mandated roll cage.

I've already looked into this myself, but I don't have the cash. All the info
I gave above, is directly from U.S. Customs.

Charles Irvin
British Airways/LAX
1962 SIIA 109 3dr diesel
1959 SII 88 petrol

P.S...shipping a "driveaway" from Birmingham, to Port Hueneme, costs about
$1275.00 - that's how seriously I looked into this!

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: 109==>130 tops
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 07:59:08 +0200 (MET DST)

Steve,
| I just have an odd question.  Is there a standard conversion to take a
| 109 station wagon to a "crew cab" 4-seat hardtop with a canvas top over
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
| welding/epoxy equipment" conversion?
| Any thoughts or information would be greatly appreciated!
There was a picture of a greyblue 109 or 110 with such a crew cab in 
the latest LROi (or LRW) issue. Think they said something about its 
origin, but I don't remember what since I just had a quick look at 
the book shop and didn't buy it.

Hope this helps,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 23:20:26 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Series III Reversing Light

From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>

Hi all.....

I've had a request from my other half (the boss) to put a reversing light
on our SWB SIII. Looking thro' various catalogues I have no trouble finding
the light itself, but I was wondering about the other end (gearstick).

Anybody have any experience with these??

My Series III has a large plunger switch mounted on a bracket on the right
side of the gearbox.  When the shift lever is pushed over into reverse, a
metal tab attached to the  reverse fork arm or slider or whatever it's
called moves back and pushes the plunger switch, thus making the connection
for power to go to the backup lights.  According to the Rover parts dealers
in the US, the original switch is no longer available, although there is a
substitute that will work with some modification.  Whether this is true or
not in the UK, I have no idea.  But I would think with the number of Series
IIIs in the breakers' yards over there, you could find a switch and bracket
with no problem.  The original switch is made out of metal and is actually
quite robust.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 02:47:40 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: importing

So technically, if i had the money, I could buy a new Defender, remove
the engine(Tdi ofcourse) Transmission, and maybe the axels so its just
body and chassis and import this with no problem.  Although customs
won't care, what about the DOT?  Do you have anything in writing?

Regards,
David Glaser

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: MoTs and Zenith Woes
Date: Wed, 7 May 97 11:21:39 BST

Well, the truck has passed the MoT - I pick it up this lunchtime.

The garage hasn't said anything about its 2x4 nature - bet they didn't notice!
:-)

At the same time I asked them to sort a few minor things out - real fiddly
things (for me) or things I did have time for.

If it was close to emmissions, I asked them to fiddle the carb - it might be
running rich. They suspect a carburettor fault - okay on idle, but dumps
fuel out when accelerating (=black smoke).

This is a new Zenith (6 months old), and was fitted by a Land Rover Specialist
(it was in for a clutch change at the time). So, I assumed any port blocking
was to do with this, and the port-blocking brigade was limited to Americans
who have to buy "generic" Zenith.
I put this to they guy on the phone, and his reply "could be a vacuum pip
on the wrong place" or something.

Thoughts anyone?
Do UK Zeniths need this port blocking? Is a Land Rover garage going to know
about this beforehand? (not to mention names, but they're in Sussex, and
have a thatched garage! :-) )

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 06:29:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Rover painting...Again

Keith,

Take a look on the Ottawa Valley Land Rovers site, under my heading (Alan
Richer's articles, that is.....8*)  ).

There you'll find a thorough tutorial on doing exactly what you want -
Painting a Rover with a Wagner HVLP sprayer and automotive paints.

It can be done, and it produces great results if you're willing to take the
time to prep the surface properly. I did my 109 over 2 years ago, and other
than where the rocks have got it, the paint still looks great.

                    Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 11:51:09 +0200
From: u940470@studbo.hit.no (Bengt M Tovslid)
Subject: 88" with RR axsles?

Hi

I want to put RR axles on my 88". Do any one of you experience with this?
Prices and were in UK can I do it?

Se you at billing 97

Bengt M. Tovslid
Norway

http://bolinux1.hit.no/~u940470/

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