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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: LR and Names: (was: What are Defenders Defending?)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 07:53:00 -0400

C. Marin Faure wrote - Leave it to some newbie PR
types to warp history around to suit their "Introduction to Marketing
101"

The "Marketing 101"? Is this the 101FC with the 105mm Trailer option?
"Good Morning, we're from the marketing department. Our "aim" is to make
sure you buy lots of Land Rovers. Nice showroom you have here, be such a
shame if our 105 spoiled it!!!"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 07:25:51 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Purchasing Parts in the UK

Hi All,
 Has anyone had any experience with buying parts from P.A. Blanchard?
Are they a good parts supplier or create problems by shipping the wrong
stuff?   
-- 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:31:50 -0400
From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Boring starter problem!!

Hi
Now im getting really mad! - the only thing i cant seem to fix on my S2a
since I got it,  is the starter - (The starter is the of the old type -
without the solenoid!!) - Its been a bore for ages. First it would not
engage with the flywheel - so i took it out and put some lubricant on it - I
did that three times in three months only to discover that excactly that was
the problem!! - i.e. I put so much lubricant on it that the pinion got stuck
so when the starter turned the pinion would not move etc. etc. 
Now I seem to have different problem - when the starter turns alot noise
forms :-) as if the pinion is scraping the flywheel, I have tried to
lubricate it and Ive tried to NOT lubricate it - but nothing seems to to the
trick and the gismo on the starter seems to work fine so Im wondering what
it could be!!

Also
A simple Q. A few months ago I switched my Solex carb. for a Weber and the
vacum pipe from the Solex to the distributor does not fit the weber easily!
- i have not tryed to fix it in! - I probably could!! - Does it matter if
the vacum is not connected?? 

Thanx!!

Olafur Agust  (olafura@rhi.hi.is)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:47:45 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: diesel efficiency

I had always heard that diesels are more efficient because of
higher compression ratio ... something to do with thermodynamics.
But is this actually the case,
and if so why? (in simple words)

What I think is (at least part of) the case is that the diesel
has no throttle butterfly, ie. is not strangled, not pumping
against a restriction in the inlet tract,
in contrast to a petrol engine under almost all conditions.

Don't diesels have the biggest efficiency advantage under
light load and not much of one at full power?
Does diesel have more or less energy per unit volume?

Anyone know?

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 05:47:52 -0700 (MST)
From: Dirk Tischer <dtischer@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Diesels

Isn't the real efficiency gains with a Diesel at the lower RPMs?  I
remember somewhere reading something about Diesels vs. Gasoline engines,
and Diesels seemed to be much better trail machines as they burn so little
gas when at low RPMs.  You get better milage everywhere, but you can sit
with your diesel engine going for much much much longer when just letting
it rumble away.  

D Tischer
94 D90
had a diesel escort somewhere back there

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 8:51:53 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Boring starter problem!!

I don't know about your starter, but you should attach the vacuum to the 
distributor. Without it, you have no vacuum advance for the ignition.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 8:48:44 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Canada -> US Import

If you are importing a '64 Rover, I don't think you have to worry much 
about the paperwork. Tell 'em you paid fifty bucks for it as a parts 
truck. The vehicle has to meet federal DOT standards of the year of 
manufacture, which pretty much all Canadian vehicles do. The Utah DMV 
will have its own idiosyncracies regarding registration of antique 
vehicles. Check it out.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 9:05:57 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel efficiency in the real world...

Even if they're more efficient, have more low-end grunt, don't have 
cranky electrics and so on...my neighbors could care less about all that 
when I fire it up at 6:30 in the morning, frightening all the birds and 
cats away and leaving a thick cloud of inky, greasy and smelly smoke. ruh 
ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh..bidder-OOOM...klotta klotta klotta 
klotta klotta klotta.....( aak, gag! )

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 09:36:14 -0400
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: Re: Land Rover font

Michael asked,
>I was wondering if somebody knew what is the type of font used in the Land
>Rover badge of the 60's (the one with green letters on yellow background).

looks like Arial to me,  Italic and possibly BOLD

end
74 SIII 88 (Chester)  178,000+
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin some
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: SIII transfer & speedo Q
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 97 14:40:00 PDT

Okay, I confess my ignorance, what is Pratley's Putty?

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------
From: Iwan Vosloo
Subject: SIII transfer & speedo Q
Date: 30 April 1997 09:59

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

Hello all.

I just arrived back from a long nice holiday in namibia which was great
fun (except of course for the one really bad inevitable? breakdown in
the middle of nowhere...)

On the way back my speedo started doing the same things Adrian's did and
I will check the castle nut on the transmission brake hub centre as
suggested (over the weekend).  BUT I have noticed something else too: my
hi/lo gear lever is a bit loose and also produces some gear lever
noise.  It never did that before - it was quiet and did not have any
loose movement.  My transfer seem to leak where the gear lever comes out
of the box too, but only when my FWH are locked.

Seems like there could be something else loose too, possibly also
influencing the speedo?.  What do you think?

(By the way... does somebody have a list somewhere of REALLY useful
stuff to take with you on trips to nowhere?  Never, ever leave Pratley's
putty off that list - it came in very useful for me on this trip.)

 - Iwan Vosloo
( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 09:50:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Bill's diesel starting up...

In a message dated 4/30/97 9:10:55 AM, Bill wrote:

>ruh 
>ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh..bidder-OOOM...klotta klotta klotta 
>klotta klotta klotta.....( aak, gag! )

Made me feel like I was there... one of the more imaginative descriptions
I've read lately. The mac I'm using has a totally useless feature which is
totally unused except for situations like this: it is called "Speak Text" and
a computer voice attempts to read the text on the page... I had to try it on
that "ruh ruh ruh.. aak, gag!" bit. I'm still laughing, and my dog is looking
around with a very puzzled look.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 09:57:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Tire size on 109

Two weekends back, I saw a 109 pick up (from Live Oak, FL) with 9.00x16
tires. Tom Maynard (the owner) wouldn't have anything else on there, he says.

Are there any radials available in that size; like Trac Edges for example? Or
are they all military style bias-plies?

They may be what I fit to the 110 to fill out the cavernous wheel arches.
Also would raise clearance from ground-to-axle as opposed to just lifting
frame higher by using OME springs, right?

Now to win the lottery so I can actually spend for something...

pat.
93  110

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 97 14:43:33 BST
Subject: V8 conversion for Series Land Rovers

with reference to John Stiller and his query re: Chevy V8 to LR. I 
have seen 'B&H services' advertise in LRO for Chevy to Range Rover. 
Maybe they can be of assistance? or using their adaptor fit the 
Chevy to a RR Gbox in the Land Rover - giving a fifth gear. Their 
phone number is 01256 810144.

I am converting my SWB Series 3 to Rover V8 and would also 
appreciate any information with regard to fitting problems.

I am still toying with the idea of fitting disk braked axles (coil) 
adapted for leaf springs. This gives me better diff ratio for 
cruising, wider axles for stability, retain turning circle with 
wider tyres and better braking.

Although I do have to convince my girlfriend of these benefits 
especially considering the costs involved and the fact that she 
expects a holiday next year!
 

------------------------------

From: Michael Slade <slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re: Canada -> US Import
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 07:49:43 +0000

<snip>

The Utah DMV
>will have its own idiosyncracies regarding registration of antique
>vehicles. Check it out.

When I registered my '66 IIa in Logan 2 1/2 years ago, I told them that I
in fact did pay 500 bucks for it.  They didn't even come out to the parking
lot to take a look at it.

Don't bother registering it as an antique vehicle.  I think it has to be 40
years old or something and it costs extra.  You'll have enough to spend
your money on already.

Good luck, and feel free to ask for good Rover-ing spots!

Michael Slade
Portland, OR
slade@imagina.com
'70 109 SW (for sale)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 10:45:28 +0000
From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:  diesel efficiency

I have always thought that the greater efficiency of a diesel came from
the flip side of compression ratio, the expansion ratio.  

Hot gasses in a diesel expand much more than in a comparable gasoline
engine.  Therefore they are cooler when they reach the exhaust stroke. 
This means that more of the heat energy of the burnt fuel is converted
into mechanical energy.  

Malcolm

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Diesel efficiency in the real world...
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 97 15:56:00 PDT

Ever considered fitting a hotstart system? I've got the Kenlowe Hotstart 
system fitted to my 2.5D and starting is much less traumatic. No need to use 
the glow plugs, starts quicker, less clatter and much less smoke. Added plus 
point is the heater works from the start of the journey, much more 
comfortable in winter.

Liked the description of the noise.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------
From: Adams, Bill
Subject: Diesel efficiency in the real world...
Date: 30 April 1997 00:00

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

Even if they're more efficient, have more low-end grunt, don't have
cranky electrics and so on...my neighbors could care less about all that
when I fire it up at 6:30 in the morning, frightening all the birds and
cats away and leaving a thick cloud of inky, greasy and smelly smoke. ruh
ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh..bidder-OOOM...klotta klotta klotta
klotta klotta klotta.....( aak, gag! )

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 10:10:43 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: diesel efficiency

>> I have always thought that the greater efficiency of a diesel came from
>> the flip side of compression ratio, the expansion ratio.  
 
> Hot gasses in a diesel expand much more than in a comparable gasoline
> engine.  Therefore they are cooler when they reach the exhaust stroke. 
> This means that more of the heat energy of the burnt fuel is converted
> into mechanical energy.  

Diesel fuel has more heat energy than petrol from the get go.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 09:22:56 -0700
From: "Mark L. Freeman" <baker@murlin.com>
Subject: Tempurature Gague Callibration

For a tempurature gague that pegs on hot when the engine is not hot try 
changing the resistance by adding a resistor between the sending unit and 
the gague.  I saw this idea on the list a week (sorry, don't remember who 
to attribute the idea to) and just tried it on my Mini that has a 
transplant engine but original Veglia  temp. gague.  By adding a 570 ohm 
1/2 watt resistor I was able to get the gague to register in the normal 
range.  As for a cheap fix, you can't get much cheaper, I got six of 
these resistors at Radio Shack for 49 cents. Being the big spender that I 
am, I also got a 1000 ohm package in case the 570 ohm wasn't right.  I 
don't know how long they will hold up as the original suggestion was for 
a 5 watt resistor. 

Mark Freeman
1975 109 one tonne (presently w/o engine)
1974 88 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 11:29:02 +0000
From: "spencer k. c. norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: Land Rover font

Michael asked,
>>I was wondering if somebody knew what is the type of font used in the Land
>>Rover badge of the 60's (the one with green letters on yellow background).

>looks like Arial to me,  Italic and possibly BOLD

arial is actually a rip off of helvetica, the wonderbread of typefaces..

LR's font:
Gill Sans Bold Oblique

created in 1912 (or thereabouts) by eric gill for use on signage in the
london underground.

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
Land Rover 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:50:58 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: SIII hi-lo hear lever noise

I was plagues by this rattle for years - resorting to the elastic strap
between red and yellow levers like everyone else to stop noise.

My recent rebuild taught me something which leads to a more "permanent"
solution -

The hi-lo lever rattles in two places - at the bottom is a "tenoned
hinge" which when rattled for years wears - tighten up the nut and bolt,
fit a captive nut, and this rattle will stop.

Half way up the lever, there is a ball which locates in the hi-lo
selector - this ball wears, thus increasing rattle. Solution, weld up
the grooves which have formed in the ball, then file/gring the ball back
to a smooth ball shape - re-fit. Maybe a rubber grommet in the selector
arm would help - if hi-lo shifts are not too regular, this won't wear
out for a long time - I haven't tried this yet, but I am planning to.

A well kept rubber sleeve also helps - can anyone tell me why Land Rover
rubber sleeves - on the hi-lo shift and the hand-brake, are moulded to
match the lever in it's most "unusual position" thus stressing the
sleeve unnecessarily. The hi-lo sleeve fits perfectly when lever is in
neutral, but honestly, how many hours of your cars say 25 year life has
this lever spent in neutral? Same with the handbrake.

Good luck excorcising rattles. Check the floorboards for rattles whilst
you are at it!

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: GeratyBell@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:01:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The details about gasoline which you always wanted to know...

By the way, did you know that over 90% of "green house gasses" are produced
by mother nature herself. We,(mankind) in all of our industrialized
biliousness, produce less then 10%. (And as a matter of fact, latest studies
show that over the last 18 years, earths temp. in down about .3 degrees)

------------------------------

From: Erik Nystrom <enystrom@innovusmm.com>
Subject: Disco Oil Use
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 10:15:49 -0600

I have a 1995 V8I Discovery that seems to be using more than its share 
of motor oil.
It seems like it is using about 1 quart per 200 -250 miles or so.
I would like to know if this seems like a reasonable amount for a 3.9 
v8I to use?
The motor does not seem to be leaking any oil as my drive way is 
always dry.

Thanks,
Erik Nystrom
Enystrom@innovusmm.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 13:23:27 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Disco Oil Use

> I have a 1995 V8I Discovery that seems to be using more than its share
> of motor oil.
> It seems like it is using about 1 quart per 200 -250 miles or so.
> I would like to know if this seems like a reasonable amount for a 3.9
> v8I to use?

That sounds like a little too much.  A quart every thousand or so miles
seems more like the norm.  On the other hand no 2 year old vehicle
should need it oil costantly added.  What color is the exhaust?  Is it
burning oil.  How many miles do you have?  How did you break in your V8?
I was told that the Rover V8 needs to be broken in hard.  The harder the
better.  This is not an engine that should be babyed the first 1000
miles like many people think.  The 2 Discos I have were broken in VERY
hard.  Both have about 30k miles on them, and I have never needed to add
any oil.  And with the exception of a little from the rocker cover
gaskets they do not leak either.

Rover On,
David L Glaser        '94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6 (MayaTruk)
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu  '94 Discovery, Teal

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:33:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: coins as washers

On Tue, 29 Apr 1997 DONOHUEPE@aol.com wrote:

> 25 Ore coins.  Down here in the lower 48 provinces we use Canadian pennies
> because no one but Dixon wants them.  Have to drill holes though.

	???  I'd prefer USA pennies.  Worth 30% more than ours right now.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 10:24:38 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Canada -> US Import

At 11:44 AM 4/30/97 -0600, Shawn Swaner wrote:
:My near-endless search for my first Rover has now taken me to Canada. 
:1-  At what value will the 25% charge be assessed, the purchase price or book 
:value?

 The tariff should be 2.5% on the purchase price in US funds.  Bring along a
 Bill of Sale, as well as title papers to the vehicle.

:2-  I have a stack of faxes from EPA, but cannot find any info on USDA reg's. 
: Does anyone know of a hotline or website addressing USDA import reg's?

 You don't need this, see below...

:3-  I plan on bringing my Rover into the US from British Columbia through 
:Washington state, but I live in Utah, do I have to meet Washington or Utah
:DOT standards?

 DOT and EPA are Federal regulations, not state.  Vehicles over 25 years old
 (1972 and before) are exempt from DOT reg's, and vehicles over 21 years old
 (1976 and before) are exempt from EPA reg's.  Your state may have smog laws,
 but chances are that Utah has none or vehicles over 25 years are exempt. 
	
:4-  How long can I expect the import/border crossing to take, assuming
:I have all my papers in order?

 A lot depends on your attitude!  Customs clearance could be as little as
 15 minutes where the inspector fills out most of the forms, leaving you
 to fill in your name and address and write a check.

 Good luck,

-Michael

 VP, LROA

                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:49:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: spot rust repair

Can someone give me pointers on spot rust repair.  Does Naval jelly 
take off surrounding paint?  If so is the best alternative sanding?

Lucas

d90sw 

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 11:30:49 MST
Subject: Lucas 24hr Emergency Service

I came across this in the latest flyer from Special Interest Car Parts.

**********************************************************************************
This just in...after purchasing a Lucas premium quality remanufactured starter or 
alternator you can count on it to provide you with unsurpassed reliability and 
performance.  And you can enjoy peace of mind with their exclusive Lucas ERS 24 Hour 
Emergency Roadside Service Program.

The Lucas ERS 24 Hour Emergency Roadside Service Program provides that, should your 
starter or alternator fail during the two years after purchase, you are eligible for a 
jump start, or tow to the nearest repair facility if necessary, from a qualified road 
service provider.  This service is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, anywhere 
in the U.S. or Canada.

Special Interest Car Parts and Lucas wish you many miles of Happy Motoring.
***********************************************************************************

I thought it was interesting that no telephone number was provided.  Kinda makes you 
wonder if the contact system for the "Lucas ERS 24 Hour Emergency Roadside Service 
Program" is also handled by a Lucas electrical system.

Rob Modica, Tucson AZ        '51 SI 80" hardtop       #16136629 "La Rana"
Arizona Land Rover Owners    '60 SII 109" SW Safari   #16400620 "The Tortuga"
rmodica@east.pima.edu        '94 Disco 5spd 

Home of the University of Arizona Wildcats - 1997 NCAA Basketball Champions

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 13:35:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: fhyap@ix.netcom.com (Franklin H. Yap)
Subject: Re: Disco Oil Use

You wrote: 
>I have a 1995 V8I Discovery that seems to be using more than its share 
>of motor oil.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>The motor does not seem to be leaking any oil as my drive way is 
>always dry.

Have it fixed. A LRNA representative told me the "official" limit is 
800 miles/quart.  

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 14:48:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Lucas 24hr Emergency Service

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997 rmodica@east.pima.edu wrote:

> The Lucas ERS 24 Hour Emergency Roadside Service Program provides that,
> should your starter or alternator fail during the two years after
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> This service is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, anywhere in
> the U.S. or Canada. 

	Let me get this straight... If I spend about 150 quid on a Genuine
Lucas starter (or RTC-5225) for my 1964 109, they will provide this
service for two years!?  Good god, a challenger for Zippy-Tow!

> I thought it was interesting that no telephone number was provided. 

	Damn!   :-)

	(needing a starter actually...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 15:29:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Lucas 24hr Emergency Service

On Wed, 30 Apr 1997 rmodica@east.pima.edu wrote:

> The Lucas ERS 24 Hour Emergency Roadside Service Program provides that, 

	After talking with Lucas Canada, who refered me to Lucas USA, it
turns out that they did have this programme in effect for several years.
However, it has now been cancelled.  The cost of running the programme
where they were sending cores out of the USA for rebuilding and then
returning them proved to be too expensive.  They still supply parts, but
not the 24/365 ERS.

	Damn...  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:09:45 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Synthetic Oil

Curretly I have just over 30k miles on my Discovery.  I'm considering
switching to a synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1.  Is it too late for me to
switch over.  Is it worth it, what are the benifits.  I change my oil
about every 3500 miles.  Also I've read that synthetic oils can cause
oil leaks on seals which have previosly had non-synthetic oils.  So far
my engine hardly leaks, I don't want to ruin my good luck!!

Rover On,
David L Glaser         '94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6 (MayaTruk)
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu   '94 Discovey, Teal

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:12:12 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Rover Events

Are there any British Car or Land Rover events in the near future in the
Maryland, DC, or Virginia area?

Regards,
David L Glaser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:37:02 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: The details...(long and maybe boring)

Just a few thoughts on the Otto/Diesel comparisons, I apologize if someone
has already covered this or if I have got something wrong.

Efficiency:
The major difference in calculating the thermodynamic efficiency in Diesel
and Otto cycles that in the Otto cycle, the combustion is assumed to occur
instantaneously, so it can be modeled as a constant-volume process. The
Diesel cycle is modeled as a constant pressure process, assuming that the
fuel burns steadily through the whole power stroke. Although these are both
over-simplified, these assumptions work well enough for qualitative
comparisons. I won't go into the gory details of the analysis, but it turns
out that the Diesel cycle is actually far LESS efficient than the Otto
cycle for a given compression ratio. However, as someone pointed out,
Diesel engines have a much higher compression ratio and therefore are
generally as efficient or slightly more so than Otto-cycle engines. Oh, and
Diesels generally do not have a throttle, so pumping losses are less and
the volumetric efficency can be highter than that of an Otto engine.

Soot&pollution:
Soot forms in extremely rich regions(3-5 times the ideal mixture) of the
fuel/air mixture through a series of complicated and poorly understood
reactions. In a spark ignition(otto) engine, the fuel/air mixture is
generally assumed to be homogeneous, and for good performance the mixture
must be very near the stoichiometric ideal(about 1:14.1), and uniform
across the whole cylinder.  Therefore, soot particles do not form since the
mixture is not rich enough(unless the engine is running very rich and you
get lots of black smoke). In a Diesel engine, since the fuel is injected
directly into the cylinder just before ignition, the fuel air mixture is
not homogeneous and consists of fine droplets of fuel surrounded by air.
While the overall mixture might be fairly near stoichiometric(although
Diesel engines run a lot richer than gas engines), the mixture will be
extremely rich in the immediate vicinity of the fuel droplets. This allows
soot to form in these regions. Since most of the unburned hydrocarbons form
soot, Diesel engines have 4-5 times less HC emmissions than gas engines,
but both engines produce Oxides of Nitrogen(NOx) in similar amounts. The
soot, or particulates, have been considered relatively harmless until
recently, when some studies linked them to cancer and other nasty health
effects. Since NOx is the primary target of the EPA and other regulators,
both engines are considered equally "dirty", although Diesels have much
lower HC and CO emmissions.

Hope this was not too boring, there's lots more where it came from if
anyone's interested. Cheers,

Braman
66IIA 88" (Petrol)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:44:09 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: LR Query

While I am in an automotive-engineering type of mood, does anyone know any
of the following for a 88" Series or where I might find them?

height of center of gravity
front/rear weight distribution
approximate spring rates(standard and/or heavy duty)

I am thinking about a few suspension/brake mods, but I need to know these
things before I get started. I could figure them out eventually, but it
would save me some time if somebody knows... thanks!

Braman

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:06:50 +0000
Subject: Re: LR Query

> Date:          Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:44:09 -0400
> Reply-to:      Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> From:          bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
> Subject:       LR Query

> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> While I am in an automotive-engineering type of mood, does anyone know any
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> would save me some time if somebody knows... thanks!
> Braman

 Little information given!  CoG and front/rear would depend on on individual 
setup.

Factory springs for 88":

PETROL
	Front driver			203lb/inch  	6.080 inch free camber
	Front  passenger		203lb/inch  	5.330 in.
	Rear driver			166ib/inch	7.420 in.
	Rear passenger		166ib/inch	6.750 in.

DIESEL
	Front driver			273lb/inch  	5.625 inch free camber
	Front  passenger		273lb/inch  	5.125 in.
 	Rear driver			166ib/inch	7.420 in.
 	Rear passenger		166ib/inch	6.750 in

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 23:37:24 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Petrol ignition - mental block!

Any volunteers to clear a mental block of mine, regarding petrol
ignition theory? As a diesel owner I'm finding myself out of bounds!

My picture of electric ignition theory in a petrol engine goes something
like this -

Battery --(12v)--> Ignition switch/solenoid --(12v)---> coil --(many
thousand v)---> HT cable ----> distributor centre terminal ------> rotor
arm -----> four terminals -----> spark plug (BANG)

if the rotation of the rotor arm determines the firing order and the
firing frequency (faster rotation=faster firing) and if the rotation of
the rotor is correctly synchonised with the firing order of the
cylinders then WHAT ARE THE POINTS FOR?

Is timing accuracy in a petrol engine determined and adjusted by
rotating the entire distributor body around its axle, in much the same
way as the distributor pump on a diesel?

If so, why adjust the points? And what current do the points open and
close, what purpose do they serve?

How do you time the distributor by rotation? what direction advances /
retards?

What role does the vaccuum pipe from the carb to the distributor play
and how does this work? What is the purpose of the adv/retard adjustment
screw on the distributor side (we are talking Lucas on a 2.25 series III
1973 with a solex 361V carb. And in what way is this adjustment
different in function or effect to the rotation of the entire
distributor body.

I understand the principle that says that the plugs must spark at the
correct time in relation to intake, compress, expand and exhaust cycle -
on my Ferguson tractor this is accomplished singularly by rotating the
distributor body around it's axle to achieve best firing and running and
least smoke. What are these other adjustments for in the LR

And again - what do the points do?

Call me an idiot - but until now, my recipe for petrol engine repairs be
it Lawn Rover or Land Mower (Mine's a Lawn Rover Heritage) has been keep
all contacts clean, check spark plug gaps, and if it runs, leave well
alone. Adequate for lawn mowers and tractors, whose economy is not
scrutinised by the rest of the family and whose environmental
acceptability is not scrutinised by every green motorist in the
supermarket car-park - but for a Landie, I expect better, and find
myself unable to acheive it.

Gosh it's easier talking about non-rover subjects, we all seem equally
clever when debating cat recipes or commerciality on the internet, but
having to admit that, despite 15 years driving and repairing 2 diesels,
I am stumped by six or seven cables, a bakelite bun the size of a can of
beer, and a aluminium die-cast gasoline-doser. This is humiliating! -
but nonetheless true.

HELP!

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:52:51 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Petrol ignition - mental block!

>if the rotation of the rotor arm determines the firing order and the
>firing frequency (faster rotation=faster firing) and if the rotation of
>the rotor is correctly synchonised with the firing order of the
>cylinders then WHAT ARE THE POINTS FOR?

They provide the path for the coil windings to get a charge to boots 
that 12v to 1000's

>Is timing accuracy in a petrol engine determined and adjusted by
>rotating the entire distributor body around its axle, in much the same
>way as the distributor pump on a diesel?
Yes, you can do it that way.

>If so, why adjust the points? And what current do the points open and
>close, 
12 volts on a civvy LR
>what purpose do they serve?
They need to open and close at the right angle of dwell, which 
determines how long they're open and how far.

>How do you time the distributor by rotation? what direction advances /
>retards?
Turning by hand adjusts the dwell angle. If I remember correctly 
anticlockwise advances on a LR.

>What role does the vaccuum pipe from the carb to the distributor play
>and how does this work? 
It either advances or retards (depending on the model) the timming. 
It's a little vacum diaphram that sucks the palte in the dist around.

>What is the purpose of the adv/retard adjustment
>screw on the distributor side (we are talking Lucas on a 2.25 series III
>1973 with a solex 361V carb. 
It's for fine adjustment.
>And in what way is this adjustment
>different in function or effect to the rotation of the entire
>distributor body.
It isn't really.

OK everybody, correct my mistakes.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:15:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Here, kitty, kitty

      Cat.... the Other white meat.

           Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:25:43 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Canada -> US Import

Shawn Swaner wrote:
> Hello all,
> My near-endless search for my first Rover has now taken me to Canada. > 1-  At what value will the 25% charge be assessed, the purchase price or book value?
The duty is 2.5% but the first $x000 of personal imports over the duty
free limit of personal imports pays a 10% duty. A friend I helped to
import a LR from Canada got hit by this.
> 2-  I have a stack of faxes from EPA, but cannot find any info on USDA > reg's. Does anyone know of a hotline or website addressing USDA import > reg's?
The USDA regs apply when importing a vehicle by sea or air. In theory
they can require cleaning of any vehicle entering the US from certain
areas in Canada. Don't worry about it.
> 4-  How long can I expect the import/border crossing to take, assuming I have
> all my papers in order?
Depends on how much you want to argue. Seriously, the one glitch we
encountered was the customs folks were not aware of the 25 year old rule
for DOT safety regs. Once I found it on the relevant form they were
okay.

Check out Bill C.'s summary in the LR FAQ on importing vehicles. It's
the best summary I've seen.

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan (north of Windsor, Ontario)

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 17:42:33 -0600 (MDT)

David L Glaser is said to have hastily scribbled the following:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> oil leaks on seals which have previosly had non-synthetic oils.  So far
> my engine hardly leaks, I don't want to ruin my good luck!!

The reason why engines with curde oil based engine oil do not leak and then
start leaking with synthetics, is because synthetics tend to clean up all the
sludge that builds up in your engine and is currnetly sealing those leak
spots (if they do exist).  So, leaks are uncovered by synthetics, but not
made.  The fact that crude based engine oils generate sludge that covers
those seals in the first place is what is the scary part.

It is a boatload of crap to say the least that there is a time when you can't
switch to synthetics anymore.

All my vehicles have always been run on synthetic oil (and many ppl within my
circle of relatives and friends do the same) and we have never had any 
problems.

Today's synthetics have nothing to do with the nasty side effects of early 
synthetics.

Benefits are better viscosity characteristics (e.g., compared with curde base:
less viscosity at low temperaturs for better cold starting, significantly 
less heat breakdown -> longer life of oil, heat resistance (doesn't evap/burn
nearly as easily as crude base), and other things as well.. long list.)

Go for it. The little bit of extra cost is well worth it.

As always, you get what you pay for.

Btw: All rovers leak.  It's a part of life.  Cherish it.

-- 
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> (work) <chk@gnu.ai.mit.edu> (home)
Paranet, Inc. http://www.paranet.com/ "Humbly speaking for myself only."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 19:51:21 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: LR Query

Braman Wing wrote:
> While I am in an automotive-engineering type of mood, does anyone know any
> of the following for a 88" Series or where I might find them?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> front/rear weight distribution
> approximate spring rates(standard and/or heavy duty)

Based on the picture in some of James Taylor's books of a early SI
tilted 45deg and other claims of a static roll over angle greater than
45deg, and the track of 51.5 deg, I'd guess a cg height of around 25
inches. This of course will be less with a metal top. Fore/aft cg
position can be determined from the weight distribution. Assuming around
50/50 for an 88, the cg would be in the center of the wheelbase.

If you need more accurate data than this, think carefully about your
mods, brakes in particular. Some requirements and criteria are not
obvious.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 02:03:39 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil

Christian Kuhtz wrote about synthetics:

Excuse my ignorance (it's definatly my ignorant day today) but if
synthetic oils are not based on crude - what are they based on?

Maybe the sludge from crude is crud?

Last time I did an oil change which was long overdue, the car was having
difficulty starting without flattening the battery on cold mornings -
you could stand a shovel up in it and it wouldn't fall over - the oil
took over 30 minutes to drain from the sump, when warm.

Thankfully it ran much better after a change, and has almost no smoke.
But I learnt a good lesson.

do synthetics get as stiff as cold treacle with age?

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:32:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Petrol ignition - mental block!

Okay, here's a shot at resolving Adrian's mental block.

It's simple. The points are there to fire the coil.

OK - another way:

The coil is a transformer - 12 volts in on the low side, and 26Kv out on
the high side. For this device to function, the magnetic field has to
fluctuate - a transformer won't work in a steady DC circuit.

Hence, the points disconnect and reconnect the coil at the proper time to
make the high-voltage that the sparkplugs fire on.

The spark, once created by the points doing their thing, is routed through
the distributor cap and rotor to the proper sparkplug. The high-voltage
side (cap and rotor and the like) have nothing to do with the actual timing
of the spark, but direct it to the proper sparkplug.

The distributor is actually 2 pieces in one body - the low-voltage timing
side (points, vacuum capsule, cam for the points, mechanical advance
weights and the like), and the high-voltage bit that pushes the sparks
around (wires, cap, rotor).

The ignition timing is critical because too late, and the period of maximum
compression is past, wasting the explosive power of the fuel. Too soon, and
you get spark knock, detonation, and generally wreak Hell on the engine.

What you want to do is gap the points to the proper setting, then
static-time the engine to about 3 degrees before top dead center. The
little vernier on the side of the distributor can then be used to make fine
changes in the timing - if it pings, retard it, if it doesn't advance it.
You want it just on the not-pinging side under heavy load.

                    Alan R.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:54:43 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: tip of the day

On Mon, 28 Apr 1997, Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> wrote:

>Maybe other LRO's of other nationality have similar recipes - anyone
>found 5/16" coinage yet?

The Eastern Caribbean has very usefull Al alloy coins of 18mm, 21mm, and 
23mm diameter, worth respectively 0.3, 0.6 and 1.5 US cents each. Perfect 
for home-made washers/spacers for LR body work, but obviously quite 
illegal. 

I use this flimsy stuff with a clear concience. A few years ago I 
documented the building of the dugout canoes that are used for fishing in 
this area. The builders had stashed great quantities of the outgoing coins 
- great copper and brass things that were worth many times their face value 
- changed in the 1980s. The main boat-building washer was a piece of brass 
nearly 2mm thick, with a face value of 5 EC cents, issued at a time when 
the Queen was shown on one side. There are hundreds of fishing canoes that 
are held together by nails driven through these coins of the realm.

For anyone passing through, keep your small change.

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:44:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Parts for sale

Clearin' out the closets!!!

Sorry I haven't posted in awhile, but I've moved and I'm busy in the new
house.

Anyway, I've got some parts for sale AND MY PRICES ARE INSAAAAAANE!

Two bench seats in really good shape (no rips) ~ $175pr.
Speedo, without LEDs ~ $90
Four 15" wheels $120, but will separate.
Shipping is extra. Email me directly

Thanks!
Alex

89 Rangie
69 IIa

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:07:28 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Zenith woes

Adrain wrote:

>I have set the mixture screw all the way in, then out by 3/4 of a turn...

There ain't no such critter as a "mixture screw".  It is the slow running or 
idle jet; it's function is to leak a small amount of petrol down the carb 
throat.  The only way to change the mixture is to use a different sized main 
jet.

>The car is running sluggish, prone to stall, and prone to lose
>"get-up-and-go" when trying to accelerate....

This is clearly too *much* petrol.  The Zenith 36IV is a gnereic carb, in 
that it fits several marques.  As such, one of the ports in the lower body
is extraneous and needs to be plugged.  With the carb top half removed, look 
for two ports about 1/4" apart on the outer edge above the vacuum port to 
the distributor.  Plug the port that is closest to mixture screw...err..slow 
running adjustment.  A fragment of O-ring smeared with Permatex #2 (*not* 
silicone) works well.

As to O-rings...here's a crossover for you.  I had my carb apart last week 
for its yearly O-ring replacement, thanks to EPA-mandated MBTE fuel 
additives.  I took one out of the kit I got from BP (on sale!) and matched 
it up at the hardware store.  The bin I got a couple from was labeled "Sloan"
so next time you need an O-ring in a hurry...just go disassemble the nearest 
sloan toilet....  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 18:34:19 -0800
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@Alaska.NET>
Subject: V-8 in series Rover

John Stiller asked about V-8's in Series Rovers.  I don't know where you
are, but if you are near the West coast you should look up a guy named
Timm (yes two m's) Cooper.  He is in Portland and his Ph# is (503)
233-5913.  He has put Chevy strait 6's, Chevy V-8's, Ford V-8's, and
even big Caddy V-8's in series Rovers.  He does some of the cleanest
work I have ever seen.  He generally uses American truck 4-speeds and
machines an adapter for the Rover Transfer case.  For GM engines he uses
an NP435 and for Ford engines a BW T-18.  Both of these have very low
first gears and are super stout.  The Chevy v-8's do need a little
firewall cutting but no movement of the front grill.  Ford V-8's will
fit with no firewall mods and no movement of the front grill.

Hope this helps,

Tim Sitter
Peters Creek, Alaska

------------------------------

From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:36:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Land Rover font

 
<I was wondering if somebody knew what is the type of font used in the Land
<Rover badge of the 60's (the one with green letters on yellow background).

<looks like Arial to me,  Italic and possibly BOLD

I don't know for sure what it is, but for the Solihull Society 
Magazine logo, I simulate it with Weissach Black bold italic.  It's 
close.

(You can see the Soli Mag at http://www.du.edu/~tomills/solisoc.html)

T.F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                 http://www.du.edu/~tomills
University of Denver Library, Denver, Colorado 80208, USA

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 21:08:13 -3000 (MDT)

Adrian Redmond is said to have hastily scribbled the following:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Excuse my ignorance (it's definatly my ignorant day today) but if
> synthetic oils are not based on crude - what are they based on?

Adrian, yer excused ;-)

Their are synthetic ..made by chemical synthesis, essentially chemically
engineered like the real thing just better.

> Maybe the sludge from crude is crud?

harr, harr ;-)) 

> Last time I did an oil change which was long overdue, the car was having
> difficulty starting without flattening the battery on cold mornings -
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> But I learnt a good lesson.
> do synthetics get as stiff as cold treacle with age?

Nope.. in fact, my car started (barely) at -40F or so below here one night 
when Colorado had that arctic blast coming thru here last fall.  It actually
cranked fairly easily and ran fairly smooth (compared to all other cars on
the lot who would not start at 4am, or not even crank).  And that was with
Mobil 1 5W-30 in a car which is supposed to eat 10W-30 crude oil (but you can
do that because of the chracteristics of synthetics).

Btw: Synthetics that look like new when they run out of the engine at an
oil change are (by some ppl) deemed as bad, because they don't absorb any
of the junk generated by combustion.  Not sure how much I believe that 
reasoning.

-- 
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> (work) <chk@gnu.ai.mit.edu> (home)
Paranet, Inc. http://www.paranet.com/ "Humbly speaking for myself only."

------------------------------

Subject: RHD vs. LHD
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 97 23:02:28 -0500
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

I have a friend interested in purchasing an older rover and has no access 
to the internet, so he wanted me to post this question.

He is working on a deal on an apparently very nice rover that had been 
imported from the U.K. a while back, but is concerned about it being 
right-hand drive.  I have seen many RHD vehicles around and have told him 
that I and many other series owners consider it a novelty.  Sort of a 
"the way they were designed at home in the U.K." kind of thing.
  
He was wondering if this would impact any driving situations or has 
bearing on any safety concerns.  He was also wondering if this would 
effect re-sale value in the future, if he was to consider selling it.

THanks for any info and I'll pass your comments on.

Keith

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*            Founder -   "Arkansas Land Rover Association"              *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*                                                                       *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Steve Dempsey)
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 01:08:26 -0400
Subject: oil pressure gauge D90 wagon

 Has anyone installed an oil pressure guage in a D90? I know the 110
has a guage. The land rover sending unit (p/n DRC2479) costs 96.00 from
Rovers North. I am  looking for VDO or Auto Meter sending unit part
numbers or thread size. Any help would be  appreciated.

------------------------------

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