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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 07:37:58 EST
Subject: Re: Gearbox repairs

>syncro gears be changed without removing the whole box

Well....
you could pull the engine, then remove the bellhousing from the gearbox, 
and then slide the 3/4 synchro from the front of the mainshaft, but in all 
likely hood youd be merely forestalling the inevitable. ANy repairs beyond 
that , i.e., replacing other gears or synchros would require the removal of 
the unit. 
Are you sure its the synchro? It could also be the clutch hydraulics going 
south.
Besides, if it's just the synchro, then a little double cutching is a lot 
less taxing then another zillion deutsche-mark rebuild...

Cheers
DaveB.
72 SIII SWB "Green Car"
Arlington VA
"Ask me about ANYONE"

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Gearbox repairs
From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketilk@a.sol.no>
Date: 22 Apr 1997 12:13:27 +0200

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> writes:

> The question is, can the syncro gears be changed without
> removing the whole box - I want to avoid an attack of shippfitters
> syndrome on this repair.

You don't really want to do it, but it's possible. Barely.
I've done (almost) this once - we just had to get the engine
out of the way :-) (This started out as an engine swap, so for us
this was the easiest way to do it. I'd guess that this is _not_ the
way you want to do it if you don't want to remove the engine)

regards,

---Ketil Kirkerud, 1979 109" Petrol SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 97 21:06:36 UT
From: "Trevor Talbot" <fc101@msn.com>
Subject: Re -Museum to close 

I  visited the REME museum at Bordon on Sat with the 101 club and I spoke to 
the curator about the closure of the Museum of Army Transport at Beverly and 
he said there was a possibility that the museum may be taken over & run by 
some other party.I don't think any of the vehicles have been moved yet so keep 
your fingers crossed & hope we don't lose another piece of our history due to 
lack of money.In the museum there is a prototype 101 with powered 
trailer.(there is another one at Gaydon)
     On the subject of the REME museum it is possible to arrange a group visit 
during the closed season , from now till the Autumn the vehicles are being 
shown at the shows. If you are interested let me know and we might be able to 
arrange a visit in the Autumn. Its well worth a visit.
 Cheers  
   Trevor         101 FC GS
                      Ser 2a Station Wagon
                      Series 1 H/Top

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:07:03 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>
Subject: Gas Mileage

On Fri, 18 Apr 1997, LPC wrote:

>  	Hi everyone!!
>  	I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>      -------------------------------
> 	1981 LR 88 Serie III

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 08:12:21 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>
Subject: Gas Mileage

On Fri, 18 Apr 1997, LPC wrote:

>  	Hi everyone!!
>  	I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>      -------------------------------
> 	1981 LR 88 Serie III

------------------------------

Date: 22 Apr 1997 10:19:38 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Inertia Seat Belt Conversio

After a pleasant half-day examining the various shoulder harness seat belt
designs in a local junkyard, I found that F-Series pickups (plentiful in any
US salvage yard) had a seatbelt design compatible with my SIII-88.  A couple
of minor mods were required, but 20 bucks and two hours later the swap was
complete.   They work great and they're much more comfortable than the static
harness.

If anyone wants details on the swap, please mail me offline.

Regards,

Jeff Jackson
Waterford, CT
'73 SIII-88
LT_J_Jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu

------------------------------

From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: Engine cleaning
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 09:51:17 -0600

Thanks for the input on my ongoing engine rebuild. In my rookie
ignorance I omitted to steam clean under the hood prior to starting to
take things apart! I now have the head off (block will be coming out
this week) and all the ancillaries (fuel pump, alternator, distrib. etc)
off. Unfortunately they're all coated in a layer of grime. What's the
best way for me to start cleaning them? It was suggested to me to use
paint thinners to wash them - is this a good idea. As usual any help is
greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, 
Brian Tuffs.

'66 SWB "Blue" ('in bits!')
'84 T*yota BJ60 'Cruiser
Various Mt. Bikes.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 07:53:45 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: 2.25 for 2 litre was Re: '54 107" in California

Sean Morrison wrote:
>         My girlfriend and I just bought a 107" '54 Land Rover, which is in
> need of a new engine (or rebuild). I favour the former and would
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> bolt right up to the bell housing? Does anything need to be moved besides
> the engine mounts and the exhaust? Thanks in advance.

I've not done this conversion, but it's not a straight swap.  The 2 litre
uses a different bolt pattern from the 2.25 ("IIA").  I don't know about the
engine mount positions.  It might be possible to swap bellhousings on the
transmission, but I don't know.  I think the 2l and 6cyl housings are the same.

JimmyP didn't you just swap a 2.25 into Mabel?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Salomon198@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 12:47:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: story about buying; also SIII SWB owers READ

Hey Landy Lovers,

I have been looking around for a Series III, SWB, hard top LR.
I happened to come across one, but to my dismay was worse 
off then the Titanic. I tapped the chassy and found it crumbled like 
the Twincky I found in my closet. Everything was rust through the only OK
parts 
were the outer panels. It also had over 75,000 miles, New England roads. I
thought about redoing it but, then decided there was no way I was going to
pay 3 grand for it. Thats what the guy thought it was worth and it was barey
running. He told me he drove it to work everyday, it was a funny then that
when I showed up on his day off it was still there. The thing hasn't moved
since. He thought because I was younger I didn't know better, once I got my
dad and his Lander lover friend in they told him what it was worth. UNDER A
GRAND. The guy still thinks he can sell it for three maybe four. Just shows,
the only reason he is selling is for money. Man, I can't stand people like
that. Now that I have told you of my problem I was wondering if there was 
anybody out there that could direct me in the direction of a Series III 88" 
hard top which might need a little work, but nothing serious. Although if you
do have one your looking to sell that does need some work also email me.
Thanx  

If there is anyone out in lala land that could help me it would very 
much be appreciated.

Andy - Salomon198@ AOL

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 13:51:25 -0400
Subject: Re: story about buying; also SIII SWB owers READ

Re: New England Rovers and the like:

There's a certain law of extinction going on here - there are only so many
original unrestored (read cheap) ones left, and they're getting scarcer
every year - as such prices go up.

This isn't amusing - it isn't fair, actually it's damned stupid. Problem
is, you need to keep shopping til you can find what you want.

Keep looking - they do exist.

          aj"where ARE you, anyway?"r

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:16:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: 2.25 for 2 litre was Re: '54 107" in California

>Sean Morrison wrote:
>>         My girlfriend and I just bought a 107" '54 Land Rover, which is in
>> need of a new engine (or rebuild). I favour the former and would
[snip]
>> bolt right up to the bell housing? Does anything need to be moved besides
>> the engine mounts and the exhaust? Thanks in advance.

In addtion to what Jeremy said, I'll add that the space between the bulkhead
(firewall) and radiator may be rather cramped as well.  Possibly also
interference with the front axle.  The '57 SI LWB "regular" (2-door) models
were increased to 109" wheelbase to accommodate the 2-liter diesel which is
the same block (more or less) as the 2.25-liter petrol.  This suggests that
fit may be somewhat difficult.  On the other hand, some have fitted the
4-cylinder GM engines with the Scotty conversions in 86" and 107" SIs so it
must be possible to fit the 2.25-liter Land-Rover engines.  Just be prepared
for the possibility that some modifications may be required (in addition to
the certain necessity to swap the bell-housing for one from a Series II
2.25-liter as Jeremy mentioned).

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:17:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: story about buying; also SIII SWB owers READ

Something else that is propping up the value of series trucks is the
condition and price of the ones some folks are bringing over. After seeing
what twelve to fourteen grand gets ya, I'm comfortable asking just under ten
for mine, but should ask more. Which adds more to the value of a LR; fresh
paint and seat covers, or a rust free frame and fresh engine?
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" ***For Sale***
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 16:42:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Gearbox synchro

Adrian writes
The question is, can the syncro gears be changed without
removing the whole box - I want to avoid an attack of shippfitters
syndrome on this repair.

Any words of advice out there?

  No, it is necssary to remove the gearbox and dismantle at least the front
end of the box. Only the synchro springs can be replaced without removing
the box.
 While you are changing the synchro ( more likely the problem   is elsewhere
) change the 2nd 3 rd gear mainshaft bush.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: WANTED: owner of Ft.Collins, CO, white SIIa 109" with Alaska plates
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:59:51 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 17:03:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject:  Ideas for roll-bar and gas can mount

Dale Avery wrote.

>I will soon be installing a new full-lenth canvas top to my 1973 SIII 88".
>I would like to fabricate an inexpensive roll bar for directly behind the
>seats. 
>Dale & Ms Daisy

I also like the safety of a roll bar, but it is something you must do
properly. The one I have fitted to my rag top is of a design found in the ARC
yearbook. It bolts directly to the chassis rails and has diaganol supports. I
had the whole thing made up for 100UK pounds. This was about the only part of
my hybrid I did not do myself. As I have never used a tube bender before I
decided to leave this to an expert.

Mike Rogers.
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

Date: 22 Apr 1997 17:59:46 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Inertial Seat Belt Swap Det

I received a large number of requests for the details of this swap, so I'm
posting the details to the list.  I hope that the length of this text doesn't
cause problems for anyone. 

Preface: 

As noted, I swapped the inertial reel seat belts from an F-series pickup (the
full size models - F150, 250 or 350, all 70's and 80's models that I saw had
the same design) into my SIII 88" hardtop.  The Ford seatbelt worked well
because the reel itself mounts above the drivers shoulder.   On most vehicles,
the reel is mounted low behind the seat, with the belt feeding up through a
fairlead above the shoulder, then back down.   Besides being more complicated,
this also puts the reel in harms way from all of the gravel, dirt, etc. which
I shovel into the back (needless to say, mine is not a concours truck).  Also,
this belt has a single attachment point for the reel, which simplifies things.

My rover had a static shoulder harness - this is important because the
attachment points (one per side) on the hard top just behind and above the
driver/pax are needed for the swap.  On my car, this attachment point is a
steel plate, approx 1" X 6", mounted at a 20 deg angle between two of the
girders which provide support for the hardtop.  This steel plate also has a
captive nut (7/16") welded to it, which is where the top of the static harness
bolted on.   I don't know if this plate is a bolt-on mod (it looks
professional) or factory installed, but if you don't have one, the swap won't
work.

So, in steps:

1.  Find your F-series pickup.  Be selective.  These vehicles tend to have had
rough lives and some of the buckles are gouged, belts are stained, etc.  There
are enough of these trucks in any yard to give you a selection.  Black is the
color of choice, though a few other colors are available.

2.  Pay THEM to take out the belts.  I paid 20 bucks for the belts and labor. 
This is important because you'll need a Ford tool (a torx wrench, I believe)
to loosen the fasteners.  Trust me, nothing else will work, and even with the
right tool they are difficult to remove.

3.  Go to the hardware store and buy two 7/16" x 1" bolts and steel washers.  

4.  Remove old belts (directions obvious - Haynes, et al, not needed).  

5.  On your new belts, make the following mods:

    A.  The lower attachment point is a steel plate bent to a 90 degree angle.
 Pound it flat.  5 strokes w/20 lb maul.  Increase number of strokes if
drinking.  Decrease number of strokes if angry.

    B.  Reel Case:  The reel is enclosed in a nice plastic case, which looks
good when mounted.  BUT - the angle of attachment requires that you carefully
saw off the "lip" of the case (a 3/4 inch extension of plastic) through which
the belt travels after leaving the reel.  If done with care and a fine-toothed
saw, the result will look quite acceptable (to me, anyway).

   C.  Back of Reel Case:  There is a "pin", for lack of a better term, which
sticks out from the back of the reel.  This is just a piece of the steel
backing plate which the reel is mounted on.  It is about 1/2" long, and
prevents flush mounting against the rover backing plate.  Either flatten this
pin (which I did on one side) or cut it off (which I did on the other).   It
is not important, and not related to the safety mechanism in any way.

6.  The reel must be mounted with the correct side up, or the inertial device
will not work.  This is easy to determine:  If the wrong side is up, the belt
won't move (protection in case of rollover).   The top side is the side which
the attachment bolt goes through.  This will be obvious when you see the belt.
 

7.  Using your 7/16 bolts and washers, bolt the reels into place.  The best
"feed" is provided is you cant the bottoms of the reels about 15-20 degrees
off vertical, towards the seat.  This will allow the reel to feed out easily,
and the angle will not "trip" the inertial belt-stopping device.  

8.  Pull the lower attachment point down to where your old belts bolted on,
just beside and below the seats.  The old fasteners (if they came out intact)
will work nicely. 

9.  Attach the buckle side of the belt just as your old ones were attached.  
This side is about 4" longer than your old buckle strap, so a minor mod is
required.  Either tie a knot in the belt (cheap, effective, hidden behind the
seat) or have a canvas shop sew a fold into it with heavy thread (a 5 dollar
job, if they don't do it for free).  

Good luck with the swap.  If anyone needs further info, please mail.

Jeff Jackson
Waterford, CT
73 SIII 88"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 10:09:46 +0000
From: RPI Engineering <rpi@paston.co.uk>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

many thanks to Mike Rodgers for his interest in our web site I hope the
information regarding our 15 years of V8 experience is of use to many poeple.

please note althogh Mike got our web site name correct it is in lower case
not capital.

please download our brochure for free (it cost us money to send it to you)
yes Mike,s right there is an element of hard sell but there,s good pages of
information regarding the V8 no one should miss all this free information.

www.rpi-engineering.co.uk

best regards to all

Chris Crane RPi engineering.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: fuel problems

Not sure of original thread:
After replacing my fuel pump and running fine for about a month I started to
suffer similar symptoms.  Loss of power going uphill and engine knocking at 40
mph.  I thought it was the vacuum advance but upon closer examination of my
inline fuel filter it turns out to have a large chunk-o-crud stuck in the
output just in front of the paper filter.  I had one of those see through
models.  I purchased a new filter and have a happy rover now.  Couldn't find
another see through that weekend but will keep looking.  Helps to monitor flow.

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:08:16 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Exorcising speedo crud

>Therefore I ask warily - has anyone done this job themselves before -
>what is inside the Smiths surprise? (Mines the one with a trip counter)
>- Is this a job for watchmakers and others of the nimble-digited
>persuasion, or can any hamfisted wally, given patience, care and a deal
>of method dismanltle, service, and reassemble these small

I've done this on both of my series IIIs, with a certain amount of success.
The recipe is roughly (from an ageing, leaky memory):

1) Remove the instrument from the dash

2) Remove two cheese-headed screws from the back.  The guts will now flop
anound inside the instrument.

3) Twist the front bezel (rim) relative to the body of the instrument.  It
is held on with lugs that will line up with bayonet cut-outs in the rim.
With some careful squinting and prizing, it should come off without any
damage to anything, other than a few of your fingers.

4) The guts will now fall out onto the table, where you can examine them.

Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.

The guts consist of a large metal casting (the cheap and nasty stuff that
household fixtures are mode from) with assorted wheels, gears and the like
attached, plus a faceplace screwed on.  It is quite robust and should not
fall to pieces -- if it does, you've located the problem.

I have never lubricated a speedo assembly, just blown out small sand-dunes
with photographic compressed air, and replaced the odd miniature circlip
that has decided it prefers lying around in the casing.  Because of the
problems of dust, I'd try just blowing it out and see whether that fixes
the problem.  If not, ask a nearby instrumentation person what lubricant
they recommend.

On a related tack:  My current sIII has a Nissan gearbox with a
${who-knows} transfer case.  As a result, the speedo calibration is about
25% out.  I can probably fiddle and faddle to get the speed working
correctly, but can't fugure out how in the world one is supposed to get the
odometer/trip counter calibrated.  Does anyone know if this is possible at
all?  I have visions of a small gearbox in the speedo drive cable, or
_much_ lower-geared diffs, neither of which is at all appealing.

Any clues?  Suggestions?  Of should I just Araldite a small calculator to
the dashboard?

	paul

------------------------------

From: Salomon198@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 19:59:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: story about buying; also SIII SWB owers READ

Hey,

It's Andy the one who sent the letter that really didn't make much sence at
all, 
but anyway to anwser your question New Hampshire, just above the border of
Mass. And you? What kind of Landy do you own? Also do you have any ideas of
where I could find a SIII, SWB?

Hope to talk later 

Andy   

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:26:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Rear floor support cross members

A friend is doing a frameover on a S3 109 and is in need of what I can only
describe as rear floor support cross members.  These  "c" shaped supports (I
think 3 short and one long) that support the rear floor panels on the frame.
 The long one goes beneath the rear seat.  Of course, unlike the ones that
came on this LR, we need them to be relatively free of rust.  We are told
that the usual parts sources can't get them and that the only realistic
supply source is from salvage vehicles.  Anyone know of a source - new or
junque?  Any suggestions on alternate solutions, ie making them out of
something else?

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:03:48 +0000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

> From:          RPI Engineering <rpi@paston.co.uk>
> Subject:       Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

> many thanks to Mike Rodgers for his interest in our web site I hope the
> information regarding our 15 years of V8 experience is of use to many poeple.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> yes Mike,s right there is an element of hard sell but there,s good pages of
> information regarding the V8 no one should miss all this free information.
Should we be including this site within the LROI Resource Centre at 
http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/
for all to see?

Input from users welcome on this.

 
> many thanks to Mike Rodgers for his interest in our web site I hope the
LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:29:18 -0700
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear floor support cross members

Any suggestions on alternate solutions, ie making them out of
> something else?
In the Rovers North newsletter Winter of '94,page 6 has:
Crossmember,rear bed(MUC8949) reqiuring 6 for the rear bed.
@ 24.00 ea.
I'd be suprised if they couldn't order them.
802-879-0032

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 00:05:29 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear floor support cross members

At 20:29 97-04-22 -0700, you wrote:

>Any suggestions on alternate solutions, ie making them out of
>> something else?
-In the Rovers North newsletter Winter of '94,page 6 has:
>Crossmember,rear bed(MUC8949) reqiuring 6 for the rear bed.
>@ 24.00 ea.
-I'd be suprised if they couldn't order them.
>802-879-0032
>@ 24.00 ea.
-

You can still get the short ones (For 88" and 109 2-door) but the long ones
(For the 109 SW) are NLA, last time I checked. I was lucky enough to salvage
a few from a dead 109 I used to have. Must be a way to fabricate them or t0
find a similar piece. You can still put a channel, it will fit. To me,
channel #5 has always been a favorite. Smells good, too.

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Exorcising speedo crud
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 14:26:00 +1000

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
asks:
>Therefore I ask warily - has anyone done this job themselves before -

Yes, I've done Smiths' ones from Hillmans (sticky needle) and a Toyota
one from a Land Cruiser (faulty odometer due to hardened grease) as
well as the one on my Rangie (faulty odometer reset).

>what is inside the Smiths surprise? (Mines the one with a trip counter)
>- Is this a job for watchmakers and others of the nimble-digited
>persuasion, or can any hamfisted wally, given patience, care and a deal
>of method dismanltle, service, and reassemble these small
>wonders-of-the-dash?
Dead simple devices.  A couple of small screwdrivers and needle nose
pliers and you'll be right.

One item you should look at is the bearings for the indicator.  On a
couple of those I've done, the bearings have worn out.  They are only
holes for the shaft and they wear.  As a result the rotating aluminium
disc can foul the rotating magnet assembly.  If these are worn, I
think you may be in trouble and unable to fix the speedo (I was).

>Should it be dry or lubricated, if lubricated with what?
I've used light sewing machine oil as the speedo doesn't use jewelled
bearings.

Keep a record of how you dismantle it.
You have to take the pointer needle off to remove the dial and then
you will have to put it back in the correct spot to get the speed
indicating correctly.  How one is supposed to this, I don't know but
this is how I do it.

The return stop (at 0 kph or 0 mph position) is spring loaded and can
be pushed in to let the pointer drop back further than the zero
position.  With the speedo in its normal operating position, mark or
note where the pointer sits.  On two of mine this has been already
shown by factory marks.  When I reassemble, I sit the pointer in the
same position and push it on.  Then move it past the zero-stop and
it's done.

Does anyone know the correct method?

Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews"

Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see
http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:31:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Rover pictures

My wife and I are starting to work on a home page and have a few Land-Rover
pictures on board.  There is a rare forward control that may be of interest
as well as a shot of my own.  We will continue to add, take out and change
the page as time goes on.
John Cooper 1969 11a
www.seanet.com/~scooper

------------------------------

From: "Brian Willoughby" <lndrvr@ldd.net>
Subject: Elephant's hide
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 21:13:35 -0500

Does anyone know of a source for this "leatherette" type material that was
used to uphoster the seats, door panels, etc. on Series IIs and early IIAs?
 I've already given in to using later door panels (yes, the black ones),
though since my rear seats are in excellent shape and the front back
cushions are still in decent condition, I would like to reupholster the
front bottom cushions.  Either a source of this material or a source of the
entire lower cushion would be most appreciated.  Thanks,  Brian 

------------------------------

From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Exorcising speedo crud
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 03:10:00 -0400

> On a related tack:  My current sIII has a Nissan gearbox with a
> ${who-knows} transfer case.  As a result, the speedo calibration is about
> 25% out.  I can probably fiddle and faddle to get the speed working
> correctly, but can't fugure out how in the world one is supposed to get
the
> odometer/trip counter calibrated.  Does anyone know if this is possible
at
> all?  I have visions of a small gearbox in the speedo drive cable, or
> _much_ lower-geared diffs, neither of which is at all appealing.

A speedo shop should be able to provide a "mall gearbox"with the proper
ratio which is spliced into the cable.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Elephant's hide
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 03:31:51 -0400

Another LRO owner in search of the elusive elephant hide:
> Does anyone know of a source for this "leatherette" type material that
was
> used to uphoster the seats, door panels, etc. on Series IIs and early
IIAs?
>...Either a source of this material or a source of the
> entire lower cushion would be most appreciated.  Thanks,  Brian 

Try Woolies in England. Phone number was 0778-347347. I believe it is now
01778-347347. Fax should be 01778-341847. Address is Market Deeping,
Peterborough, England, PE6 8LD. Very friendly folks. They can provide
material which is very close.

I don't know of any sources which can provide original material other than
possibly Dunsfold and British-NW. I gather the latter won't sell fabric,
just reupolstering.

Regards,
David Cockey
 

------------------------------

From: "Thorsten Klein" <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de>
Subject: Re: Gearbox repairs
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 17:12:26 +0200

 dbobeck@ushmm.org wrote

> Besides, if it's just the synchro, then a little double cutching is a lot

> less taxing then another zillion deutsche-mark rebuild...

Only to be politically correct:

I think that Adrian has paid daenische Kronen

(Germany is not so big)

Thorsten Klein
Mainz, Germany
kleit001@goofy.zdv.uni-mainz.de
SIII Lightweight <Scotty>

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