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Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 11:45:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: 13th Birthday party web pages. (fwd)

	A few months late, but Jeff Berg's efforts are up...

	If you are curious...

	http://204.119.251.4/OVLR/Events/Birthday_96/index.html

------------------------------

From: Michael Slade <slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Paul Hanson PLEASE READ
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:20:14 -0700

Paul,

None of my mail seems to get through to you at your address.  Sorry to
bother the list with this.

>Paul,
>I hope this gets through.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>Portland, OR
>slade@imagina.com
>'70 109 SW (for sale)

Michael Slade
Portland, OR
slade@imagina.com
'70 109 SW (for sale)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 21:43:21 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Exorcising speedo crud

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> snip
> I have had "wobbly-speedo-needle-syndrome" for several months (years) -
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> 40 and 50.snip
> Any wise words of sage advice would be welcomed forthwith!

Well, I don't know about wisdom, but I'll pass on my experience :)

I had a similar problem with a IIA speedo which I solved by removing
the speedo unit and cleaning out the interior using a degreaser.
I didn't disassembly anything just sprayed enough fluid into the unit
to get rid of some old gummed up "grease".  The speedometer is now 
very stable.

Unfortunately the odometer quit on me just a few miles ago. I don't
know if this is related to my treatment of the speedometer or not,
but be wary.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 08:38:58 +0100
From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Weber Carb Info????

Hi all.....

does anyone out there have any info on the Weber carb (I think the model is
34 ICH). I know Haynes do a manual on weber carbs, but I'm having trouble
getting hold of a copy and I'm not even sure if it'll cover this model.

I'm particularly interested in finding out how to adjust the thing for
mixture etc. as mine is running like a pig at the moment.

any help is gratefully appreciated.....

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk
*******************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 10:09:50 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>
Subject: Gas Mileage

On Fri, 18 Apr 1997, LPC wrote:

> >  	Hi everyone!!
> >  	I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> >      -------------------------------
> > 	1981 LR 88 Serie III

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 23:08:50 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Fuel pumps

J. Small wrote:

>Has anyone ever heard of fuel pumps just wearing out?

Yup...especially when you run this MBTE "oxygenated" fuel through it.  Most 
likely, it is a small hole in the diaphragm...but don't overlook the points. 
Crappy points can make you think the fuel pump is at fault.

Rebuilding the pump is relatively straightforward.  Score/mark the upper and 
lower halves first so that you can piece it back together right.  Also pay 
attention to how the diaphragm push rod goes: it fits with a quarter turn.
Removing the valves is a bit trickier, but these usually last through 
several diaphragms.

BTW, I've had a *new* fuel pump fail (on the way to a wedding once).  The 
bugger who assembled it pinched the diaphragm under one of the little 
machine screws; it took a month to fail.  Had a rebuild kit with me and 
rebuilt it on the spot...wasn't late, either.  (Always carry Go-Jo!)  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Fuel system
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 08:18:29 +0200 (MET DST)

| P.S. I am assuming the gas tank is venting o.k..  Is there anyway to check
| this?
Run it for a while (may be difficult in  your case) and then open the filler 
cap. You'll clearly hear if there is vacuum inside (don't ask how I know ;-)
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 19:26:30 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Speedo fix

Solihull@aol.com wrote:

  Adrian,
    The prob isn't in the speedo, or the cable. but in the gear on the
  transfer
  case tail shaft. It's not keyed, but depends on the rear driveshaft
  yoke
  being tight enough to keep it from spinning. Disconnect the rear
  driveshaft
  at the transfer case, remove the cotter from the nut securing the
  yoke,
  (Now's the time to change that leaking seal and/or cruddy brake
  shoes!) and
  tighten the nut, and fit a new cotter. I just did that on my s3.
  Before I
  thought I was only getting ten miles to the US gallon. I had all the
  symptoms
  you described.
  Cheers!!
  John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
  KF4NAS     LROA #1095
  73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
  72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
  Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
  Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen
  satisfied
  customers!!

  Thanks John! It looked like you were right! I got the rear tranny off
and the castle nut in the tranny brake hub was visibly loose - there
should have been a washer behind it to ensure that the split went
through the castellations, but - no washer, so even with the split in
place, the nut wasn't tight - a new washer, a new split, and everything
tight again. Found a similar looseness on the castle nut to the rear
diff, so i fixed that too! And the universal coubling by the diff had
just lost its grease nipple (fresh in a month ago) so that was replaced
and greased too.

Hard work those nuts, whilst lying on the floor I just couldn't help
wondering why i didn't tackle this job when the box was off two weeks
ago! But then I thought it was the speedo or cable, so I must put that
down to experience.

But I am sure that the worm gear was running loose on the axle - a quick
look at the exploded diagram of the gearbox is illuminating.

Thanks!

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 12:26:22 -0500
From: hansonpa@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us (Paul Hanson)
Subject: "FRAUD"

        Just a note to inform all that a judge in NY has just [finally]
determined that the company once called "RoverWorks" and now called
"Klopping Competition" has been involved in FRAUD!  DA!  The brothers and
MOM who ran the outfit will soon have to face several charges that total
over $250,000.00 in theft. If you were one of the 25+ victims in this scam,
contact me for info. to call the brilliant attorney, Mr. Patrick Rodgers
who helped bring this about.
         What goes around, comes around!
        Peace,
        Paul Hanson
        A Roverworks Victim

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 19 Apr 97 23:06:32 +0000
Subject: A Disco waved at me!!!! :-o

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

Normally when I'm out in the Landie, I wave at Series vehicles. There 
are loads of Defenders about, but they are mainly company vehicles. Also 
loads of Disco and Rangey owners but they mainly (not all) seem to not 
realise what a Series Landie is! They might as well be driving a Sh**un, 
Triper or Ter***no.

However, last night, I was pottering down a road when a Disco owner 
waved! I didn't wave back at first, I was puzzled at what I was seeing.. 
It took me a while to realise that he ACTUALLY liked my Series III. He 
had a HUGE smile on his face as he waved! :-)

Funnily enough, I pass another Series III every morning going to work. 
He is on the opposite side of the dual carriageway at the same point 
every morning. It looks a nice machine, resprayed in navy blue, safari 
roof, 90 windows, white 8 spokes. Thing is, I always wave, but this guy 
never even looks at me. He sees the Landie but ignores it, strange!! 
It's the only Series vehicle that hasn't waved at me!

Anyway, I still wave, just to shame him into maybe feeling guilty!! :-)
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  67/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                         _______ 
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_| 
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________
_____________________________________________________________________________

 
... "I am Pooh of Borg.  All bother is futile, your hunny will be
... assimilated."
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Rust? What rust?
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 97 13:36:58 +0100
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

>Does anyone out there know of some sort of propreitary high-tech goop that
>removes rust?

Oxyacetaline plus match plus hammer plus chisel . . . works every time

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Interesting web site
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 97 13:37:16 +0100
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

>Thought some of you may be interested in my latest web site find. Its from
>RPI Engineering who specialise in Rover V8 re-engineering and contains a lot
>of helpful tips ( as well as a bit of hard sell ). Sites not finished yet but
>holds promise. I particularly liked the sound of there "Stealth" engines.

where's the URL . . .

I recently dealt with these people and they were very helpful, I told 
them what I planned to do and they listed all the bits I might need, many 
of which I had not heard of. And I was supplied on a sale-or-return basis 
so the bits I did not use were returned for a full refund.

Their catalogue is great reading for everyone with a V8, although is cost 
4.50UK for a copy  - If their Web site is as interesting it should be a 
hit and cheaper than sending for the paper verion.

Simon W-H
'85 110 V8

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 17:25:03 -0400
From: "Alan J. Richer - at home" <ajricher@ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: B&Bs around - not in - London (no LR content)

Al Richer here - don't freak over the account name, guys.... 8*)

The wife and I want to take my daughter around London and its environs
for a week in mid July or thereabouts. being the paranoid sort, i'm
starting to book now.....8*)

Anyone recommend a good B&B outside of London, but not too far off
British Rail? I've looked at the prices of hotels and the like in London
itself, and they've gotten even more outrageous than the last time I was
there....

Any and all information would be appreciated, and when I gt my timing
straigened out and things booked I'd love to have a beer or two with any
net denizens in my area when I arrive.

OBLR content: Replacing the O-rings in Selectomatic hubs makes a
significant differnce in the consumption of oil in the front swivels...

They're a 5/8 ID x 3/32" thickness, and available in the plumbing
department of most hardware stores.

			ajr

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 97 15:33:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Subject: Ideas for roll-bar and gas can mount

Greeting to all;

I will soon be installing a new full-lenth canvas top to my 1973 SIII 88".
I would like to fabricate an inexpensive roll bar for directly behind the
seats.  I would also like to mount one or two 20 L petrol cans on the
tailgate.  Does anyone have ideas on how to do this?

Thanks in advance.

Dale & Ms Daisy
-----
    Dale Avery KC7MM 
    Spokane, WA USA 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 19:59:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Fuel pump

J Small writes re fuel pump problem.
  Remove the fuel pipe from the carb and put the end into a container, try
the puimp manually, there should be a gush of fuel each time the pump is
actuated. Failing this, ensure that the float bowl is fitted correctly and
that air is not being drawn in, also check the mesh filter on the underside
of the  float bowl mount.
Disconnect the pipe at the taank.  Remove the outlet pipe, this has a piece
of gauze filter on the end, is it clean ?
 Check the fuel pipe and connections for air leaks.

 If the pump passes fuel when pumped by hand, then try it by turning the
engine over with the starter, if there is no  fuel supply then there are
problems with the pump operating lever or the cam shaft ( unlikely )
  There are two valves in the top of the pump, ensure that there are no
foriegn materials trapped in them, thus destroynig the suction or the
pressure side. Check the diaphragm for holes.
 Servive kits are available for the pump. These include the diaphragm,
valves and seals.
 A word of caution if you change to an electric pump ensure that it is a low
pressure type, approx 2 or 3 psi, generally electric pumps are around 8 psi
and this high pressure will cause flooding of the carb.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 19:46:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Rear door wheel mount

Adrian writes : Is your mount plate installed in the bottom section of the
door or
above the middle cross rail? If it's above the middle - can you get to
the door handle when the tyre is on?
 it is quite commn to mount the spare wheel higher, particularly for the
7.50 tyre. When fitting the wheel do not put the inner  wheel nuts on to
far, this then keeps the wheel spaced off the rear door slightly enabling
access to the rear door handle. This position then enables access to the
towing ball, provided it is not mounted high. The higher mount covers a
little of the rear window so there is some loss of rearwards viewing but it
is no problem, still more window area than the half door.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 13:13:25 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: spare on rear door

Dear Lurch:

Your person has described your rear door, with a mount for a spare, but no
tyre mounted on it. Since you are a swb Series III, you probably have
15-inch wheels and a trailer hitch next to your folding step in the back.
You probably have only two hinges on your rear door, as I did before my
surgery.

A spare is awfully heavy, especially if you already have one on the
bulkhead and one on the bonnet (where they belong), but rear spares are a
dandy place to display a Land Rover logo wheel cover. So I suggest you
persuade your person to do what mine did: install a middle hinge to take
the extra weight on the back door, and then mount a third spare, with a
nifty Land Rover logo plastic cover.

These owners can sometimes be very difficult to manage.

Regards,
Baby

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 06:40:44 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Test of Major being down no text

Was I bumped of the list?
-- 
Rob.

------------------------------

From: Chad_Wilson@woodberry.org (Chad Wilson)
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 14:01:13 -0400
Subject: BIG SIGHTING IN VA.

While in Harrisonburg Va this weekend on Rt 33, I was going past
Massanuttten ski resort when I glanced over and saw five or six white
discos, some rangie's, and a defenfer or two, totalling about 15 or 16
rovers. I tried turning my RR around and chasing the pack west, but was
unable to do so. I also had a friend tell me he saw 5 or 6 discos in
Harrisonburg following each other friday....Did I miss a rally or
something.....Does anyone know what was happening?
Chad Wilson
88 RR
Staunton, VA

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Wind Screen
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 08:41:05 -0700

>Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 01:38:41 -0700
>From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>less sturdy?  I find that the center bar makes it look too "military"
>from the inside view.  Any comments or suggestions would be great!

One of the advantages the Series Land Rovers have over their later
cousins, the Defenders, is a stronger  body, top and windshield, a
benefit you will appreciate if you ever suffer a rollover.  Part of the
windshield's strength lies in its center support.  If you cut it out and
install a one-piece windscreen, you will be sacrificing some of the
strength that made the Series vehicles so durable.  If you don't like
the look of the Series  Land Rovers, perhaps you should get a
Defender...

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@pss.boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 LR Series III-88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 13:07:24 -0500
From: hansonpa@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us (Paul Hanson)
Subject: FRAUD!

        Just a note to inform you all that a NY judge has just ruled that
the company once known as "RoverWorks" and now, Klopping Competition in
Hyde Park NY has been involved in FRAUD.  "DA!"
        If you have been a victim to this scam it is now time to act.  Call
or write me for more info. and, in particular, the brilliant attorney to
contact.  The FBI and NYAG is also aware of this case.
        What goes around will [in time] come around!
        Peace,
        Paul Hanson

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 09:07:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: series III spare tyre on rear door

Somewhere in my Rovers's previous live (before me), the PO undid the square
plate and rotated it 180 degrees and bolted it back on in the center of the
door.  Did a pretty good job of bondoing up the previous hole too.  Plenty of
room to get to the hitch, and with a little bit of contortion, you can get to
the door handle.  No problem with the lock.  Did a nice job of reinforcing
the inside with two pieces of plate steel.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:13:08 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel system

Hi J.
 I rebuilt the fuel pump on my 109 SW not long ago & had the same
problem.  I thought I had done something wrong during the rebuild &
being pressed for time add a electric between the pump & carb just to
move the car around in my yard.  The result after a few minutes was the
rebuilt pump started to work & pump correctly.  Drawing fuel through the
pump with the electric pump seemed to prime it.  I removed the electric
pump & it has run ever since.
 You may find this solves the problem for you also.  Good Luck.

Regards, 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: trailering L/R's
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 23:25:01 -0400

> I will be trailering my latest baby this coming week, to bring it 1000
miles
> to it's new home.  Anyone out there have some experience with chaining a
> Series Rover down?  What to attach the chain to.  What NOT to attach the
> chains to, etc.?

I've used U-Haul car trailers & a dolly. The nylon tire straps can be too
small to fit around the tires. In that case pass them between the brake
hose and wheel, and carefully tighten. Being nylon they won't damage the
swivel ball surface.

An 88 on a U-Haul trailer is really too far forward if positioned with the
front wheels in the intended position (due to short wheelbase). A 109 may
be okay. Tongue weight must be well over 500 lbs; it can get interesting
even with a 3/4 ton Suburban. Use come-alongs or loadbinders to tie it down
further back; just make sure tongue weight is sufficient.

Regards,
David Cockey

 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 23:38:11 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic redux

(Resend of message originally sent 4/18 but not seen again)

Some Series parts, particularly accesories "kits" and fasteners, have
RTC numbers.

RTC4073 is just the pump unit itself for a bottom PTO. It doesn't even
include the mounting plate to the PTO, let alone the PTO. Blanchard
lists the complete Series bottom hydraulic PTO kit, RTC8002, for #395. I
have no idea if it works with the LT-230. Not only do the bottom PTO
holes need to be identical, the gear which the PTO drives off of must be
identical to the Series transfer case.

Blanchard also lists the RTC8004 Series hydraulic winch kit for #525. In
the Optional Equipment catalogue this appears to be the complete kit
including rear PTO pump, tank, lines, valve, etc. as well as the winch.
Not cheap but not outrageous compared to a good electric winch. To use
with an overdrive you need RTC8002.

Regards,
David Cockey

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> Under "optional equipment" I spy RTC7043 -
> hydraulic pump power take off units.  Now I don't think that Series parts
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> next item is a PTO control rod, 1948-1984.)  Soooo, does anyone have the
> specs on an RTC7043???  Cheers

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 15:32:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Door won't open (NAS110/90SW & 110/90 RoW spec)

Ok, once again the N-gineering geniuses at Solihull have me stumped. This
applies to vehicles which share the door handle style found on NAS 110's & 90
SW's as well as the Rest of World spec 90' & 110's; these being the
horizontal shaped handle with the push-button to open the door--not the
series style which found its way onto NAS 90 soft tops.

Here's the syptom: when I lock then close my right rear door, and it doesn't
full close, it will not unlock until I push it shut firmly and hear a faint
click within. I can then lift the lock and open the door. I learned to close,
then lock from the inside the door. Now it happened to the right front door,
except worse; i can't force it shut... I can see light from between the door
edge and rubber seal, but the latch has clicked twice meaning it is in the
fully closed position. It will not unlock with the key or even when trying to
lift the unlocking lever with visegrips.

In other words, the door is fully- half-shut, locked and will not unlock to
open. I can't unscrew it from the hinges.

Any ideas?

pat
93 "sorry, you must enter through window" 110

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:18:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Exorcising speedo crud

In a message dated 97-04-20 15:21:28 EDT, you write:

<< I have had "wobbly-speedo-needle-syndrome" for several months (years) -
 works ok at low speed, but get on the motorway and the speedo DROPS to
 between 40 and 50 when I am actually doing between 70 and 80 (KPH).
 Sudden foot of pedal at high speed rapidly brings speedo to correct
 reading, after which, she falls again and wobbles back and forth between
 40 and 50. >>

The first thing I would do is remove the rear prop shaft from the
transmission brake and loosen and then retighten the castle nut there.  It
should be torqued down to 85 foot-pounds (most of us don't get it that
tight).  This is the most common cause of the wobbly speedo.  (I think they
mentioned this in an LRO article)

Good Luck

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm">Blue Brick Rover Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 00:02:37 +0100
From: jon collins <jonathan.collins@virgin.net>
Subject: Simon Ward-Hastelow

I am having problems contacting you, all my mail gets returned. Please 
could you send me a copy of your E-mail address.

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Converting to negative ground
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 10:24:00 EDT

I'm not that sure that this is that hard to do.   In fact it's
bloody easy.

My son bought a 1966 Hillman (with a generator no alternatora)
last year and it was positive ground.
When he pulled the battery out, he didn't notice.
When he put it back, not knowing about positive earth systems,
he put it in the wrong way around.  I'm surprised he didn't
notice that the terminals were different diameters.  (He was,
at the time, only a first year apprentice mechanic and they
don't see many old cars where he works).

He had absolutely no problems.  The generator and starter must
have got a flash to change their polarity and they worked fine.

He didn't have a car radio so there was no problem there.

We left the car as it was and it still runs happily not
knowing it's had a sex change.

However, had there been an ammeter installed that would have
indicated backward.

The only things I can think of that might need checking are radios
and anything else that is electronic.

Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews"

Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 19:09:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Subject: '54 107" in California

Hello,

	My girlfriend and I just bought a 107" '54 Land Rover, which is in
need of a new engine (or rebuild). I favour the former and would
appreciated any suggestions. What is involved in installing a IIA engine,
as that seems to be the engine of choice for such conversions? Does it
bolt right up to the bell housing? Does anything need to be moved besides
the engine mounts and the exhaust? Thanks in advance.

Sean Morrison & Hana Mori

PS Can anyone suggest a more modern tyre/wheel arangement in keeping with
the vehicles character? Slightly wider tyres perhaps?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:00:16 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
>Subject: Exorcising speedo crud
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Sudden foot off pedal at high speed rapidly brings speedo to correct
>reading, after which, she falls again and wobbles back and forth between
>40 and 50.

The fact that the speedometer reading changes when you take your foot off
the pedal indicates the fault MIGHT be with the speedometer cable drive on
the rear of the transfer case.  If this is not tightened down properly, or
if its gears or cable drive socket are worn, or if the cable itself is
worn, it can affect the way the speedometer indicates.  If the problem is
within your speedometer housing itself, I shouldn't think its erratic
readings would be corrected by a sudden deceleration.  So if you haven't
already done so, you might want to check the speedometer drive components
before tearing into the speedometer itself.

The speedometer in my own 1973 Series III gave up the ghost on a trip to
the Yukon Territory in 1977.  The problem was inside the speedometer itself
and a teardown revealed it to be more or less unrepairable.  A replacement
unit was pretty pricey even back then, so I tossed the speedometer
altogether and replaced it with a tach which in my opinion has proved to be
a much more useful instrument.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 01:27:04 +0000
From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: fuel system

If any of you haven't experienced a non-venting gas cap, let me tell you
that it can be traumatic.  In my case it wasn't the Land Rover, but long
departed Volkswagen THING.  

The car acts like you just ran out of gas - which, of course, is exactly
what happens.  The first time it did it, I managed to roll into a gas
station expecting a big repair bill, but my passenger told me to take
the gas cap off.  I thought that he was crazy, but after a couple of
requests I decided to humor him.  I was amazed by the loud sucking sound
as I loosened the cap.  

This gas cap problem only took place a few times, but a couple of them
were classics.  The best was when I was driving my boss to Logan airport
(Boston) during rush hour and the Thing died in the left hand lane in
the middle of the Sumner/Callahan tunnel.  The gas cap was on the right
side just forward door so I asked Jim to get out and take the gas cap
off.  

To really appreciate the situation you have to know the Boston Airport
tunnel at rush hour and the general temper and quality of Massachusetts
drivers.  Jim was always a bit uptight about cars in general and my cars
in particular, but eventually I convinced him to get out (on the traffic
side) and loosen the cap.  Great sucking sound.  Then as he scurried to
get back in I started cranking to refill the float bowl.  After that it
was a matter of just getting the hell out of that tunnel as fast I could
because my New Hampshire license plates were not offering much
protection.  

The very next time it happened, Jim was again my passenger and we broke
down on Storrow Drive, again at rush hour.  If you know Boston traffic.
. . . . 

   ~~\---|
    / \  |\
   /   \ ||\
  /     \|| \   =====__
 /_______||__\  |[__]|_\_==_
\____Dory____/  | 65 | SIIa |
 ====(@)======== (@)-----(@)... . -- .--. . .-.   ..-. ..*\:{>

Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage.
Malcolm Forbes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:02:33 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Exorcising speedo crud

>From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
>Subject: Exorcising speedo crud
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Sudden foot off pedal at high speed rapidly brings speedo to correct
>reading, after which, she falls again and wobbles back and forth between
>40 and 50.

The fact that the speedometer reading changes when you take your foot off
the pedal indicates the fault MIGHT be with the speedometer cable drive on
the rear of the transfer case.  If this is not tightened down properly, or
if its gears or cable drive socket are worn, or if the cable itself is
worn, it can affect the way the speedometer indicates.  If the problem is
within your speedometer housing itself, I shouldn't think its erratic
readings would be corrected by a sudden deceleration.  So if you haven't
already done so, you might want to check the speedometer drive components
before tearing into the speedometer itself.

The speedometer in my own 1973 Series III gave up the ghost on a trip to
the Yukon Territory in 1977.  The problem was inside the speedometer itself
and a teardown revealed it to be more or less unrepairable.  A replacement
unit was pretty pricey even back then, so I tossed the speedometer
altogether and replaced it with a tach which in my opinion has proved to be
a much more useful instrument.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 18:10:05 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: dismantling speedo

A possible cause of a wavering speedo is a loose speedo drive gear
on the transfer-case output shaft - it slips.

However, I have opened a S2A speedo some years ago
cos it started squeaking (I later realised) and 20 miles
later siezed, snapping the speedo cable.

It was quite easy to prise the speedo open.
The cable drove
  1. a magnet or a plate ? which gives the speed reading and
  2. a worm gear with a "finger" which pokes the mile counter around.
     Incredibly simple.
     The driven gear had siezed but a little lubrication fixed matters.
No springs flew out (and I didn't fiddle to mileage reading!)

Lloyd
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Series/S1.LRR/Intro.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:15:16 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Gearbox repairs

I have just three months ago paid a small fortune for a complete rebuild
on a SIII gearbox in my 109", now my 88" gearbox is losing synchro from
4th to 3rd. The question is, can the syncro gears be changed without
removing the whole box - I want to avoid an attack of shippfitters
syndrome on this repair.

Any words of advice out there?

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 11:12:57 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Speedo problems

Thanks to everyone for their advice regarding erratic-speedo-syndrome.

The fault lay in the gearbox output shaft, a previous service had
resulted in the castle nut being replaced without a washer behind it, so
that even with a split pin, the castle nu could rotate behind the split,
thuis the worm gear in the box which drives the speedo cable was not
locked to the shaft.

Half an hours swearing and elbow-grease under the car solved the
problem.

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:59:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: spare on rear door

In a message dated 4/21/97 8:37:48 PM, Baby wrote to Lurch:

>These owners can sometimes be very difficult to manage.
>Regards,
>Baby

Yo Baby,
I feel your pain; I know what you mean, it's not easy being forced to play in
the mud either...

I'm trying to get my owner to oil up my (big) rear end with some synthetic
lube. He rode me hard last weekend at the Suwannee River Rover Rallye... and
now it is time for a little TLC. 

Can someone kindly pass along the tel # for Amsoil so he can locate a local
dealer.

Best to Lurch and other named rovers...

Ok, enough funny stuff; if the people at the Brit Invasion get wind of our
Rovers writing to eachother we'll never hear the end of it.
pat
93  "unnamed" 110

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:18:58 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: email problems with simon ward-hast 

Hi,

sorry about the subject.  Simon emailed me and my emails to his account are
bouncing.  I don't know why.  Here's what I get back:

   ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
<simon.ward-hast@dial.pipex.com>

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to maelstrom.dial.pipex.net.:
>>> RCPT To:<simon.ward-hast@dial.pipex.com>
<<< 553 <simon.ward-hast@dial.pipex.com>... No such user:simon.ward-hast
550 <simon.ward-hast@dial.pipex.com>... User unknown

Doesn't look good to me, but heck I'm a molecular biologist.

Simon, any help for getting emnail through?
sorry to inconvience everyone,
Thanks,

John F Hess                       1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gearbox repairs
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 97 10:46:57 BST

> I have just three months ago paid a small fortune for a complete rebuild
> on a SIII gearbox in my 109", now my 88" gearbox is losing synchro from
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> syndrome on this repair.
> Any words of advice out there?

The location of the 3rd/4th synchro is on the "front" of the mainshaft. This
means you don't have to take the mainshaft out, but you have to take the
bellhousing off, so that you can get at it...

Re: Speedo - I'll do the same tonight...

Richard

------------------------------

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