Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi21Re: Winch/PTO/Overdrive
2 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo20[not specified]
3 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo9Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88"
4 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us16Re: blue smoke???
5 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u31Re: Its done!
6 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u29Re: Waxoyling
7 Franz Parzefall [franz@m13Re: Waxoyling
8 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u16Re: Waxoyling
9 Andy Woodward [azw@aber.20Re: Waxoyling
10 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u21Re: Waxoyling
11 "Christian Lester." [cle15Mystery vibration solved!
12 "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn30soft top windows-Dave B
13 dbobeck@ushmm.org 17Re: soft top windows-Dave B
14 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet21Re: 2.25 Diesel
15 pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.26Gearbox Giblets
16 Simon Taylor [simon@tdc.177RE: My horror story....
17 NADdMD@aol.com 25Re: Waxoyling
18 Brian Tuffs [btuffs@norc33Engine rebuild
19 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet39Re: Engine rebuild
20 "Ed O'Neil" [Ed_ONeil@co33James Bay
21 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi41Re: Engine rebuild
22 Christian Kuhtz [chk@fri6Re: 2.25 Diesel
23 "Tim Rushton" [tim@pavil27[not specified]
24 cyoungso@direct.ca (Chri38lpg conversions
25 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us18Diesel and water do mix...
26 "spencer k. c. norcross"16Re: Waxoyling
27 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi24Re: 2.25 Diesel
28 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi26Re: Diesel and water do mix...
29 ASFCO@worldnet.att.net 18Re: Waxoyling
30 lroshop@idirect.com 27Re: James Bay
31 "Wayne R. Haight" [whaig23Series IIA questions - timing chain
32 Steve Stoneham [stoneham8Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number
33 Tony Treace [ATREACE@has13RE: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number
34 Sanna@aol.com 34Re: Series IIA questions - timing chain
35 Adrian Redmond [channel626EUDORA (No LR content)
36 "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett43Converting to negative ground
37 Solihull@aol.com 18Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88"
38 David Russell [David_R@m21Rear seats for an 88"
39 "Michael K. MacDonald" [14Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
40 rover@pinn.net (Alexande22Wasoyl (sic)
41 Gene Spagnuolo [espagnuo21RR sighting/ RR coolant
42 Deezilbob@aol.com 10ENV diff seal
43 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns13UK Supplier
44 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm16Hella Headlights
45 LROInt@aol.com 21North American Information Line
46 LROInt@aol.com 14LROI WEB SITE
47 Bryn Hackland [bryn@hack32RE: UK Supplier
48 Franz Parzefall [franz@m33Re: Waxoyling
49 LPC [deec139@tom.fe.up.p25Gas Mileage
50 LPC [deec139@tom.fe.up.p10Gas Mileage
51 NADdMD@aol.com 34Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
52 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u35Re: Gearbox Giblets


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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:04:40 -6
Subject: Re: Winch/PTO/Overdrive

snip
> that meet those specs.

snip
Why not Northern's belt drive pump? Mount it like a AC compressor. It 
has an electric clutch to engage/disengage it.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Subject: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88"
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 07:14:01 -0500
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

All-

I am considering sale of my '65 SIIA Diesel.  Now before you think of me 
as a trader or "selling out", understand that we have enjoyed the rover 
and the things it has allowed us to do so much that I have actually 
gotten clearance from the boss (ie. my loving wife) to upgrade to a more 
modern Rover, possibly even a Defender.  I think its a great rover for 
the price, and the diesel is in great shape, as well as the rest of the 
rover (for all practical purposes, rust free).  Let me know if you are 
interested and I'll fill you in with more details, and can send pictures. 
 If it doesn't sell, so be it, I'd love to still hang on to it, I just 
want to see if there is any interest.

Thanks,

Keith

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:20:31 -0400
Subject: Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88"

Where are you and how much would be nice.....8*)

                    ajr

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 8:23:54 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: blue smoke???

No doubt it's valve seals. Only remedy is to replace 'em. Don't fudge it 
by adding some glop that will simply thicken your oil. It's not a 
critical item unless oil consumption is high. I personally prefer the 
smoke, as it keeps the mosquito population in my neighborhood quite low 
as well as bothering my hillbilly next door neigbor.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Its done!
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:32:59 BST

> Richard Marsden wrote:
> > snip
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> And finally, you might want to check, in addition to the attachment of the
> outer sheathing, that the internal cable is extended appropriately.

Beforehand: Okay 0-40mph. Sometimes over 40mph it would stick just above
40mph...

After: Either dead, or appears to work fine. (to check for the 40mph problem,
will require a motorway drive really).
I think I have an idea of the problem: There are three screws at the speedo
housing end: One isn;t in properly. But, I can't get at it, to tighten it.
This would require removing intermediate/shaft. Can't do that with the speedo
cable in!!

Any ideas? Must be a common problem?

Also, some more strange vibrations yesterday. Admittedly I haven't tried
driving her since I bolted the passenger floor panel down, but all this
talk of UJs,etc. has me worried? How do I keep my mind at rest?

Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:41:10 BST

> >How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without slarting 
> >the waxoyl all over the engine, ancillaries, wires, piping,etc?
> This area should be sufficiently oiled already. If it isn't better check 
> your dipstick!!!

Nope, oil was okay last week. The front-right top of the chassis is oily, this
is due to an oil leak when I replaced the temp. sender (in the pipe to the
oil cooler) - the civvie senders aren't *exactly* the same fit (plumber's
tape and gasket sealant did the job).

> Actually you do want to waxoyl those brake pipes, but the wiring could 
> probably be pushed out of the way.

Hmm, although newish, they are going green...

> Is waxoyl flammable? What happens when one attempts to weld or cut where 
> waxoyl is/has been.

I, ermm, got some on my exhaust and it hasn't burnt *yet*, although it
goes liquidy...
I'd better get rid of it before the MOT!

Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email).

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:56:30 +0200 (MET DST)

| Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email).
Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine
last year. 

Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 14:07:35 BST

> | Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email).
> Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine
> last year. 

The inside of the chassis?

I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel
tanks).

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:17:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Waxoyling

>>How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without
>>slarting the waxoyl all over the engine, ancillaries, wires,
>>piping,etc?

WWHy would you want to? The Waxoyl is abuot the best way of 
damproofing wires. As soon as I get a new bike, the whole wiring 
harness gets PLASTERED in the stuff. I ride in foul conditions alll 
winter and never a misfire.......

>pipes, but the wiring could probably be pushed out of the way. Is
>waxoyl flammable? What happens when one attempts to weld or cut where
> waxoyl is/has been.

wrroooOOOOOOF?

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 14:38:01 BST

> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> >>How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> >>piping,etc?
> WWHy would you want to? The Waxoyl is abuot the best way of 

Maintainability?

> harness gets PLASTERED in the stuff. I ride in foul conditions alll 
> winter and never a misfire.......
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> > waxoyl is/has been.
> wrroooOOOOOOF?

I know a dog like that...

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:05:41 +0100
From: "Christian Lester." <clester@ibm.net>
Subject: Mystery vibration solved!

Dear All,

Many thanks for all the responses to my query, as suggested I checked
the UJ's in accordance with the Haynes manual and low and behold the
rear UJ on the rear prop is shot. Sadly as I don't possess a hefty vice
to fit a new spider & cups, I am having to take "Girty" to my local
independent specialist, £30 all in, so I am not too distressed. Thanks
again.

Christian.

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:53:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: soft top windows-Dave B

Dave

on all the measurements allow for folding back and making a seam.
I measured the opening from seams running parallel to the window.

 on the side panel (of course)
1. there is a seam that runs from the top to the bottom just behind the front
door.
measuring from here to the window opening is 11.75 inches

2. near the top there is a finished seam with reinforcing that connects the top
piece with the side panel.
Measuring from the bottom of this seam to the opening is 5 inches.

3. from the seam that runs near the bottom from the front to the back (located
several inches fronm the bottom edge)
measuring from this seam to the opening is 8.25 inches

4. from the rear finish seam on the pocket that the rear flaps fit into 
measuring from this seam to the opening is 11 5/8 inches.

Hope this helps Dave.

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 11:33:58 EST
Subject: Re: soft top windows-Dave B

>Dave
>on all the measurements allow for folding back and making a 
>seam. I measured the opening from seams running parallel to the 
>window.
 >on the side panel (of course)
>1.>>>lots of good information snipped<<<<
>Hope this helps Dave.

yes it does, but what about the size of the window?
thanks again
DaveB.

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:11:19 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel

Franz Parzefall wrote:
> | ...Have a look at the swivel balls: they should be smooth ,shiny
> | chrome. If they're heavily pitted they will need replacing and they're not
> | the cheapest or easiest to replace part.

> have a look inside them aswell. some owners replace the 90w with grease
> when it no longer stays in. have seen completely drys, too. be sure
> to check all the other fluids (axle diffs, g'box, t'box, engine oil,
> brake and clutch, cooling system). gives you an impression about how
> well it was maintained.

And if there's grease in there replace it with 90wt.

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:26:00 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Gearbox Giblets

Richard Moves for the 1st time in weeks ...

> With hindsight I should have replaced the 1st/2nd synchro, but it works, so
> I'm not too bothered. 

Richard,

What was the original reason for the rebuild ? I've forgotton in the mists of 
time.

Also what was the final tally of bits replaced ?

I need to know as I will have to perform major 2nd gear surgery to cure the old 
'2nd gear jumping out' problem on my SIII box.

Did you replace anything else, (apart from the usual suspects) circlips, 
bearings etc ?

Cheers, Paul.

PS. sorry if you've posted it but i'm still catching up from 11-MAR-97 :-(

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From: Simon Taylor <simon@tdc.co.uk>
Subject: RE: My horror story....
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 16:31:53 +0100

Hmmmm. sounds familiar.

I bought my SIII early in 1992. It was supplied with a new MOT from a =
'Land Rover Specialist' (not franchised) near Horsham.  As I drove out, =
the indicator was not working, even though the vehicle had been MOT'd =
the same day. Cost was =A31750.

During the summer, BOTH front chassis arms collapsed, I coudl not work =
out at the time why the doors opened as I drove around corners ! - =
basically the engine and gearbox was holding the whole thing together.  =
The 'dealer' reluctantly agreed to repair the chassis at 'cost'. Whilst =
in his care, a roadspring I had left in the back was stolen. This repair =
still cost me =A3250. December saw me repairing both rear spring =
hangers.

January 1993, and I took the vehicle for MOT.  Failures were front =
chassis arms repairs split, hole in top of crossmembers, and outriggers =
were rotten.  Basically the chassis was completely rotten and it seemed =
strange it could have passed an MOT just 12 months before.  Other =
failures were noted such as exhaust supports failed etc. (see my web =
page : http://ourworld.compuserve.com/hompages/simontaylor for pictures =
and copy of the MOT!

I repaired/rebuilt the vehicle at some extreme cost (galvanised chassis =
etc.), and asked the dealer for compensation against the state of the =
vehicle. I had even contacted the previous owner who stated that the =
dealer had paid only =A3500 as he said the vehicle was not 'resaleable'. =
- Funny, he sold it to me.

I took the dealer to the small claims court, the first summons was =
ignored, and judgement was granted.  An appeal was lodged against the =
judgement, as the dealer claimed the summons was sent to the wrong =
address.  At the subsequent hearing, the case was dismissed by the judge =
basically on the grounds of 'buyer beware'.

In the event, the legal action cost me =A370 to raise the small claim, =
and must have cost the dealer a few hundred (they had offered me =A3700 =
to settle out of court, as this was likely to be their expense).

I lost the case, but won some sort of moral victory.

I am now the proud owner of a mobile heirloom which has cost me many =
thousands of pounds and nearly a divorce.  I am also an expert on =
corrosion and vehicular engineering. (I knew nothing when I bought it).

Older and much wiser.

Simon Taylor
Telecom Design Communications Ltd.
--------------------------------------------------
Visit our web site at http://www.tdc.co.uk
TDC are UK distributors for :
Rockwell Semiconductor Systems (Modems & Global Positioning Systems)
Brooktree (Imaging, Graphics, High Speed Digital Communications)
Aero Antenna & MicroPulse (GPS antennas)
Navstar (Differential GPS base stations)
Xecom (Line interface modules)
Midcom (Transformers)

-----Original Message-----
From:	Duncan Phillips
Sent:	17 April 1997 09:31
To:	Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Cc:	uk-lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	My horror story....

I want to tell you a story.......one that should act as a warning to us
all......

Recently (late January), our car (Ford Escort - I know, I know!!!) =
failed
it's MOT test miserably, needing ~=A3600 worth of work doing on it (the =
car's
only worth =A3800) so, needless to say, it had to go, this left a slight
problem, we had the standard 2 weeks grace to either get the car fixed =
or
replace it.

After much persuasion and 'lively debate' with my dearly beloved, we =
agreed
to get a good, late SIII. One condition that 'the boss' imposed was that
rather than buying from a private advert (local papers, etc.) we should =
go
to one of the second-hand LR specialists, so that we'd have some kind of
purchase protection.

With only ten days left before the Ford was illegal, we trundled off up =
to
Huddersfield to a certain second-hand specialists (mentioning no names -
the one with the big full page ad on the inside cover of LROi magazine -
http://www.lrch.demon.co.uk - the one where they emphasise their =
dedication
to top quality, etc, etc).

Once there we had a good look at a SWB late SIII. They were asking =
=A33500
for it (ouch!), but it LOOKED very nice (carpeted throughout, county
stripes, headlamp grilles, etc. very tidy) it sounded nice too. After
giving it a quick look over (trusting in their quality spiel - big, BIG
mistake. With hindsight I should have been under there for at least an =
hour
- I know!!) we decided to buy. They said they'd MOT it for us that week =
and
we'd pick it up on the following saturday.

So we picked it up, paid our money and brought it home.

Shortly after (1 week) I noticed coolant leaking on the road - the water
pump had to be replaced, in the meantime we'd kept it well topped
up(fortunately we had a 6-month maintenance warranty thing with it, so =
it
was fixed for free). A couple of weeks later I noticed she was still
leaking coolant, so we took her to a local LR specialist who took her up =
on
the ramps only to find the following problems:

* A 2" crack in the engine block just below the exhaust manifold (hence =
the
coolant leak

* Oil seals gone (inc. handbrake seal)

* Footwells holed (patched on the inside, but not sealed on the outside
were water could get in).

* Swivel housing very badly pitted

* both front wheel oil seals gone

Needless to say these things weren't covered under the 'warranty'.

So, after much 'phoning the vendor agreed to fix all the problems for =
free,
with the exception of the engine (they said we must have over-heated it =
-
we couldn't prove otherwise) in the end we paid for a replacement
second-hand engine which they fitted for free.

OK, so I've had her back for about 2 weeks now and I notice oil splashes =
on
the front of one of the wheels, on closer inspection one of the =
hub-bolts
was not tightened up, so out came the spanner and I tried to tighten it,
only to find that it had sheared off and was just sitting in the hole!!. =
I
thought I'd better check the other bolts and lo and behold they were all
only finger-tight!! - I nearly went ballistic!! - this realy didn't look
like a vehicle that had just undergone (and passed) an MOT test!

Sooo the morals of my story are:

When buying a second-hand LR TRUST NO-ONE!!!

and

ALL THAT GLITTERS ISN'T GOLD - just because it looks good it doesn't =
mean
it is!!

It could be argued that I brought this on myself, but at the same time =
we
were in a hurry and (foolishly) thought that buying from a 'reputable'
company would protect us from at least SOME of the pit-falls of =
second-hand
buying. How wrong we were.

Needless to say I won't be going back to Huddersfield again!!.

On a slightly up-beat note both my wife and I still love our LR and
wouldn't be without her!.

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:47:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Waxoyling

In a message dated 97-04-17 12:35:43 EDT, you write:

<< > Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine
 > last year. 
 The inside of the chassis?
 
 I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel
 tanks).
  >>

I find this collection of dirt in the chassis and outriggers very irritating.
 In comparison, the 2 Chevy trucks I drive have "C" shaped frame beams which
don't allow significant amounts of dirt to acculmulate.  I find I spend more
time washing the dirt out of the LR frame than both Chevys combined.  

Anyone from Solihull listening, may take this as a suggestion...

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: Engine rebuild
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:04:27 -0600

Hi everyone,
Rookie engine rebuild questions: I've now pulled the head and have the
following questions: (I keep hearing conflicting answers so am appealing
to the lists collective wisdom).
1.	IIA (petrol) block, cylinder bores are 20 thou. over and scored,
pistons are good (~40,000km use), do I go with new pistons/rings and
oversize to 30 thou. or can I use the existing pistons and sleeve the
cylinders? What are the costs involved ??
2.	Head is shaved 1/100 thou. should I shave more, or can the existing
surface be 'polished'? Stellite valve seats - a good idea?
3.	Is a diesel camshaft a 'good' modification. I understand it will only
effect initial pickup and not absolute power/torque but isn't this a
desirable thing to have in a low-revving offroad situation?
4.	Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a
consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I
don't want to change the manifold) are.
5.	To port or not to port, any direct experience with porting a SII
head, good or bad ?
I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, seals, rings etc as well as
the carb and distributer. Anything else I should be looking out for??
Thanks in advance for your help, I look forward to having the old beast
back on the road (offroad?) again soon.

Brian Tuffs
66 (?) IIa "Blue"
84 T*yota  BJ60 "Toyah"
Various Mt. Bikes !!!

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:17:44 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild

Brian Tuffs wrote:
> snip
> Stellite valve seats - a good idea?

yes

> 4.      Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a
> consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I
> don't want to change the manifold) are.

Why rule out the Zenith? ( a new Zenith can be had much cheaper than
a new Solex and, I believe, needs only the same adaptors as the Weber).  Since
you say you don't want a manifold change I assume you mean the 1bbl Weber.
Having said that, you're pulling the manifold off anyway to do the engine so
changing to the Pierce for the 2bbl Weber really isn't extra effort, just cost.
Or how about the Rochester :)?

> I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, seals, rings etc as well as
> the carb and distributer. Anything else I should be looking out for??

A new or rebuilt water pump and check the integrity of the mechanical fuel pump.

Regarding the diesel cam... The recommendation I hear/recall are for the 
diesel crankshaft (stronger) and the 2.5l cam.  Is your 2.25 a 7:1 or 8:1?
I'd check the compression ratio and see if you want to shave more or leave it
as is.

While you've got the lot out/apart I'd look at getting the lot balanced including
the flywheel.  Probably more important than porting.  From what I've heard
porting a 2.25 won't hurt but is questioned by some as giving any real benefit.

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:29:04 -0400
From: "Ed O'Neil" <Ed_ONeil@compuserve.com>
Subject: James Bay

Dear Kevin,

I'm sorry that I have not been active on the old computer and that I
haven't spoken to you about what I have found out as far as James Bay goes.
I received the topo maps of the pertenent area and found that the one
marked road id onbly passable in the winter as the Ontario side is mostly
swamp. The roads that I saw with you on your computer are not even on the
Topo maps as the last update was 1989-1990. So they are severly out of
date--thats the Canadian Gov' for you. I did speadk to Mark Newman about
the trip about one month ago and he told me that he spoke to you and you
(or him) mentioned a postponement and a recce this summer I would think
that this a good Idea, just to go up there and check it out and afterwords
maybe in the winter do a promo or humaitarian trip.

I have been very busy and just got back from Costa Rica on Vacation. I
cvould not believe the number of Landrovers. In some towns every other
vehicle is a Ser II or III .I am also the proud owner of a 94 NAS Defender
90 asas of the 10 of April. A bouncing baby boy in Arles Blue!

Congrats on your Article in April LRO I read it at least twice and you make
sound like it was A cold winter or somthing! I thought the day we scouted
the off road site near you that you would be alot warmer than my non heated
110! I have been out to that site about three times now and might be there
this week end --- I should call you if you have the time.

Speak to you soon 

Ed O'Neil

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:35:40 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild

> 1.	IIA (petrol) block, cylinder bores are 20 thou. over and scored,
> pistons are good (~40,000km use), do I go with new pistons/rings and
> oversize to 30 thou. or can I use the existing pistons and sleeve the
> cylinders? What are the costs involved ??
Are the pistons *really* still ok. withthat much wear and damage, I'm 
supprised. Last I priced tthem sleeves & pistons were about teh same 
price (that was many years ago).

> 2.	Head is shaved 1/100 thou. should I shave more, or can the existing
> surface be 'polished'?
You only need to surface it if it needs it.

> Stellite valve seats - a good idea?
Yes

> 3.	Is a diesel camshaft a 'good' modification. I understand it will only
> effect initial pickup and not absolute power/torque but isn't this a
> desirable thing to have in a low-revving offroad situation?
No experience on this one.
>.
> 4.	Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a
> consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I
> don't want to change the manifold) are.
I've used Solex, Zenith, Rochester and Weber 2bbl. Beleive it or not 
I liked the Solex the best. But that was on an 88 beater I hauled 
firewood with. I've never done a comparison between new carbs on good 
engines. One or the other was always ragged out.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:41:24 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

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From: "Tim Rushton" <tim@pavilion.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:54:25 +0100
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
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unsubscribe land-rover-owner

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

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<BODY>unsubscribe land-rover-owner
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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:55:45 -0700
From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson)
Subject: lpg conversions

>hy chris,
>i have a series iia 1960, and i am about to fit an lpg kit in it. now how do
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
>p.o.box 7513
>limassol,cyprus 

This requires shaving the head and/or installing high comprssion pistons. 
Correction on compr. ration needed: for LR use 10:1.
You might have to stick with the original cam
on a 2 1/4. A custom one might be a little pricey. I think do the other
things mentioned below will make more sense. Best to take the engine to
someone who knows how to do the math and is familiar with LPG engine building.

Here are a few more goodies that will help out:

-High energy ignition is definatly needed

-Reduce heat transferred from Exhaust manifold to intake manifold and carb. 
The fuel is already vaour when it leaves the regulator/vaporizor, which 
is before the carb. Warming the vapour decreases the octane causing 
nasty detonation.

-Change ignition advance curve and various other ignition properties.

-Hardened valves and seats for sure. Gasolene cools the hot valves 
when it enters the cylinder, propane does not.

-Might want to use cast iron rings instead of chrome. The fuel 
causes so little wear that chrome rings may never seat properly.

Simple ha! :-)

73, Chris

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:08:46 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel and water do mix...

A diesel pump will not need a rebuild simply because it picks up some 
water from the tank. If this were the case, both my boat and my tractor 
would have died ages ago. The trick is to get the water out of the system 
ASAP and not let it get back in. Thing is,...a diesel engine will pump 
water OK, just won't burn it too well. If it dies because it has sucked 
up some water, just clean out the filters and bleed it. Don't let it sit 
with water in the pump or injectors.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:17:04 +0000
From: "spencer k. c. norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: Waxoyling

Franz Parzefall or someone wrote...
| Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email).

i tried that once, but my volume of e-mail is fairly low, all i
succeeded in doing was getting my seats soggy :)

spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
Land Rover, 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:45:32 -6
Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel

> Tom Rowe is said to have hastily scribbled the following:
> > Water will wipe out a pump quicker than you can imagine.
> Why is that btw?  Cavitation like stuff because of excessive pressures?
> Does the water displace the lubricant?

Tolerances in the injection system are *very* close, much closer than 
general engine build tolerances. Water will not hold the moving parts 
away from each other the way the oil will. You end up with metal to 
metal contact in the injection pump.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:53:00 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Diesel and water do mix...

> A diesel pump will not need a rebuild simply because it picks up some 
> water from the tank.
snip
I didn't mean to imply that it would immediately need rebuilding. 
Water doesn't lubricate the pump the way it's designed to be 
lubricated by the fuel. The more water, the shorter the life. If you 
wonder why many diesels smoke excessively, it's commonly faulty 
injection. Worn pumps and injectors. (also bad timming). But as we 
all know they continue to run, even when spewing opaque clouds.
You''ll want to keep your diesel in optimum ruuning condidtion. The 
new EPA rules have much stricter rules for diesel emissions.
So my suggestion is still to get a good filter/seperator.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:10:00 +0000

At 02:17 PM 4/17/97 +0000, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Franz Parzefall or someone wrote...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
>Land Rover, 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway
Spen;
Yeah but, That was before Alan fixed the floor!!
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

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From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:23:43 +0000
Subject: Re: James Bay

Good to hear from you.  Since we last spoke lots has happened.  Give 
me a call if you can make it out this way.  We can get together for 
a chat and I can tell you all I have been doing on various fronts.

regards

Kevin.

Date:          Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:29:04 -0400
> From:          "Ed O'Neil" <Ed_ONeil@compuserve.com>
> Subject:       James Bay
> Reply-to:      Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
> To:            Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
> X-To:          lro <lro@playground.sun.com>

> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> Dear Kevin,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> Speak to you soon 
> Ed O'Neil
LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

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Date: 	Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:43:16 -1000
From: "Wayne R. Haight" <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Series IIA questions - timing chain 

Aloha all!

My 1970 Series IIA SWB [(Kololohi)  it means "slow crawl" in Hawaiian] began
rattling on start up a few months ago and has gotten progressively louder. I
have isolated the rattle to the timing chain area, so I guess it's time to
replace the chain. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or an insiders view on
the job? Besides the chain itself, what other bits should I replace while
I'm in there? Also my gearbox occasionally jumps out of gear. Would new
detent springs help, or is this a sign that I will eventually have to
rebuild it?

Thanks,
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
NOAA/University of Hawaii
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822, (808) 943-1236

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:01:47 -0700
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number

Does anyone happen to have Scotty's phone number in California handy?
Thanks,
Steve

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From: Tony Treace <ATREACE@hasimons.com>
Subject: RE: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:06:24 -0700

Try (510) 686-2255

>----------
>From: 	Steve Stoneham[SMTP:stoneham@sympatico.ca]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Thanks,
>Steve

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:02:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Series IIA questions - timing chain 

>I
>have isolated the rattle to the timing chain area, so I guess it's time to
>replace the chain. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or an insiders view on
>the job?

I've done it several times on my '70 IIa (Lulubelle).  Lu had chronic low 
oil pressure (42lb) since I bought her untill I replaced the oil pump at 
about 200K (60lb).  The low oil pressure led to insufficient tensioning 
of the chain which then did a lot of whapping on the vibration damper.  
When the surface of the dampener wore out the chain would get very 
noisey, especially on deceleration.  Twice it broke.

Replacing is straight forward.  Just start at the grill and start 
removing parts untill you get to the chain.  As far as I can remember, 
you should replace the vibration dampener, the idler gear, the chain, and 
the TC cover gasket.  Possibly, you should do the tensioner as well.

BE SURE TO REASSEMBLE WITH CORRECT GEAR POSITION, or you'll never get it 
timed.  It's all in the manual.  The only skill required is correct use 
of a socket wrench.

Good luck.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:06:11 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: EUDORA (No LR content)

Does anyone here use Eudora for e-mail, or Eudora veiwer? Anyone know
where / if I can download it/tem on the net? Anyone have experience with
these programmes? E-mail replies privately to avoid cluttering LRO with
this topic!

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Converting to negative ground
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 09:48:00 +1000

I'm not that sure that this is that hard to do.   In fact it's
bloody easy.

My son bought a 1966 Hillman (with a generator no alternatora)
last year and it was positive ground.
When he pulled the battery out, he didn't notice.
When he put it back, not knowing about positive earth systems,
he put it in the wrong way around.  I'm surprised he didn't
notice that the terminals were different diameters.  (He was,
at the time, only a first year apprentice mechanic and they
don't see many old cars where he works).

He had absolutely no problems.  The generator and starter must
have got a flash to change their polarity and they worked fine.

He didn't have a car radio so there was no problem there.

We left the car as it was and it still runs happily not
knowing it's had a sex change.

However, had there been an ammeter installed that would have
indicated backward.

The only things I can think of that might need checking are radios
and anything else that is electronic.

Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews"

Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see
http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:15:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88"

Doc,
 FWIW, I've got my s3 88 on the block, too. Hope to get almost 10K, but I've
done *lots* of work on her. Once sold, I'll need another. I *hate* being
Rover-less. What do you want for yours? 
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:18:36 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: Rear seats for an 88"

To who(m?)ever was looking for a set, I have one. please e-mail direct.

Cheers

David Russell
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 Series IIA SWB (runs great, just needs a new frame)
1977 FJ-40 Land Cruiser (non-running) rusted-out hulk
1996 Grand Cherokee--"I wish I were a Discovery"

http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r <---NEW stuff, just updated!!

"Intel Inside"...The world's most widely used warning label."
(unknown)

courtesy Nanther's Mac Quotes,  http://members.aol.com/twfms/macquotes.html

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:50:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael K. MacDonald" <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I will be trailering my latest baby this coming week, to bring it 1000 miles
to it's new home.  Anyone out there have some experience with chaining a
Series Rover down?  What to attach the chain to.  What NOT to attach the
chains to, etc.?

Thanks,

Mike MacDonald
1957 88" Series I  "Don Quixote"

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:54:40 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Wasoyl (sic)

Dave B. wrote:

>Is waxoyl flammable?

Unfortunately, yes.  Even worse, the EPA has declared it "hazardous" which 
means you can't ship it UPS without their big hazardous freigtht surcharge 
and it can't be shipped by air anymore.  Supply of Waxoyl in the US is going 
to vanish quickly.  (Glad I just bought 7.5 litres!)  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:21:53 -0700
From: Gene Spagnuolo <espagnuo@gte.net>
Subject: RR sighting/ RR coolant

In The Saint, the main character may drive a Volvo, but the Bad Guys
drive a Range Rover.  Which they eventually blow up (damn Hollywood). 
If you see it check one of the late scenes (Val Kilmer's house from a
distance) and see if the car in the driveway is the same Rover, I
couldn't make it out, and it was a quick scene.

I'm also looking for help.  I have a 1988 Range Rover (unnamed) which
has been running hot.  It hasn't overheated (yet), but I'm always
concerned.  I've flushed it, and put in a new thermostat (tested).  The
fans work, and the belts are tight.  Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Gene Spagnuolo
espagnuo@gte.net
1988 RR
If my Rover's trying to name itself, it must be Pieces.
Pieces in the car, Pieces on the floor, Pieces on the counter.

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From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:51:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: ENV diff seal

the old part # 549412 is still a good number. I just got 2 from Rovers North
in Vermont, U.S.A., $14.99 a piece, they had one in stock and had to order
one from England, something about the last time they sold one was 14 years
ago.......

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:06:44 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: UK Supplier

Having seen a thread about not so good springs from Padd**k in the UK, 
how would their "Lucas" distributor fair? After market with a Lucas 
description/ or the real McCoy? Have a friend going over and I want a new 
dist. for Pig.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:22:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Hella Headlights

I have bought Hellas through Imparts Ltd, 800-325-9043, and also locally
here in New Hampshire at the Auto Palace chain of auto parts stores.

Hella's number is 800-247-5924.  There can send I little flyer on their
lights or if you ask for the 1997/1998 Performance Lighting and Accessories
Catalog, they will send out the 80 page catalog with the picture of 8 CT
Discos on the cover.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

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From: LROInt@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:25:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: North American Information Line

The Land Rover Owner International North American Events Information Line has
been updated and now includes detailed entries for the OVLR Birthday Bash,
Down East, Mid Atlantic as well as the Atlantic British Off Road Weekend and
The Silihull Society rally.

If anyone has any other events to be included please let us know by email.
 We currently have 5 options available but if usage and interest warrants it
we will add further options.  Please be sure to provide other owners without
the luxury of an Internet facility with the number and include it with your
newsletters.  The number is 905-436-7813.

Many thanks

Kevin Girling
for LROI.

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From: LROInt@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:33:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: LROI WEB SITE

We are hoping to expand our resource centre and need input from owners about
 other sites throughout the world that are relevant to Land Rover.  If you
have any ideas or information you think should be included on the site please
let us know by emailing us directly.  If you are unfamiliar with the site
please visit it at:
http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/

Many thanks.

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From: Bryn Hackland <bryn@hackland.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: UK Supplier
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 05:14:13 +0100
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC4BB7.67BA6B20" ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Can recommend DLS at Wirksworth, Derbyshire. They advertise in LRO but the phone number is 01629 822185 and fax 01629 825683

Bryn Hackland
1970 IIA 'Bluebell'

----------
From: 	Con P. Seitl[SMTP:seitl@ns.sympatico.ca]
Sent: 	17 April 1997 18:06
Subject: 	UK Supplier

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

Having seen a thread about not so good springs from Padd**k in the UK, 
how would their "Lucas" distributor fair? After market with a Lucas 
description/ or the real McCoy? Have a friend going over and I want a new 
dist. for Pig.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4BB7.67BA6B20
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Waxoyling
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 08:02:20 +0200 (MET DST)

| The inside of the chassis?
Yes. It all started when I found half that gearbox crossmember was filled
with sand. On the (military) 110 it's a ~10cm diameter pipe which bottom pokes 
out about 1cm so you normally can look throu. Then I felt with the finger
inside the fraim rails (dunno if Series frames have that big access holes
at the bottom as my 110) and found sand in there, too. Then I bought 2m
cheap plastic hope just small enough that it went through the frame holes.
I sticked it in as far as possible, connected it to the garden hose and
washed the inside until no more sand came out. After several weeks the frame
looked dry when I put a small light bulb inside and I went on with the 
sprayer. For the inside I had a special sprayer with a 1m hose and a nozzle
at the end. Worked just fine. You may be able to borrow one from an auto 
workshop.

| I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel
| tanks).
Have a look inside...

Keep the (wax)oily side down,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:37:52 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>
Subject: Gas Mileage

 	Hi everyone!!
 
 	I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...).
 	Actually it does about 20 mi/gal (14 l/100Km). Is it too much???
 	A fried of mine has also a rover and it is doing 28 mi/gal (10
 l/100km)
 	My car does a lot of white stinking smoke but it is not burning
 oil. I think that the engine is not fine tuned.
 
 	Hoping to get some answers...
 
 		Regards
 
 			Luis
 
 	PS  Does anyone have the torque settings for the cranckcase??
 	
     -------------------------------
	1981 LR 88 Serie III
 

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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:56:57 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>
Subject: Gas Mileage

>  	Hi everyone!!
>  	I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>      -------------------------------
> 	1981 LR 88 Serie III

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 06:29:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 97-04-17 21:35:58 EDT, you write:

<< I will be trailering my latest baby this coming week, to bring it 1000
miles
 to it's new home.  Anyone out there have some experience with chaining a
 Series Rover down?  What to attach the chain to.  What NOT to attach the
 chains to, etc.? >>

I assume you mean on a flat bed trailer.

If so, I have used the axles, if the brakelines are free from the chain if
not, I have also used the front bumper if firmly attached and through the PTO
hole in the rear.  

MORE IMPORTANTLY:

1. Put the truck in neutral.
2. Put the transfer case in neutral
3. Don't apply the handbrake

REASON:
1. You do not want the truck to move back and forth (even that slight little
bit).  This would potentially wear the timing chain or gear box.  While this
is more critical in high performance sports cars, the principle is the same
in the tolerant LR.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gearbox Giblets
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 97 11:47:08 BST

> Richard Moves for the 1st time in weeks ...
> > With hindsight I should have replaced the 1st/2nd synchro, but it works, so
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> What was the original reason for the rebuild ? I've forgotton in the mists of 
> time.

Generally nosie 'box meant it would happen eventually, but some really horrible
noise whilst driving down from Leeds in the New Year.
I think this was probably in the 4wd case (not proven conclusively).
Also handbrake was in bad shape - various other noises just before the rebuild
was probably from the "contents" of the brake drum...

 
> Also what was the final tally of bits replaced ?

Drive Shaft (+dog) in the 4wd housing, one of the lever shafts in the same
housing (these bits aren't meant to wear out much), reverse gear
(chewed - I've selected rev. by accident once or twice - probably the springs),
layshaft (matching reverse gear, although not as chewed) one of the gears in
the transfer case, all the springs, all the oil seals, all the bearings, all
the circlips, handbrake rebuild kits, springs and shoes.

 
> I need to know as I will have to perform major 2nd gear surgery to cure the old 
> '2nd gear jumping out' problem on my SIII box.

Why's it always 1st/2nd and not 3rd/4th synchro! :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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