[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 21 | Re: Winch/PTO/Overdrive |
2 | "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo | 20 | [not specified] |
3 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 9 | Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88" |
4 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 16 | Re: blue smoke??? |
5 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 31 | Re: Its done! |
6 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 29 | Re: Waxoyling |
7 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 13 | Re: Waxoyling |
8 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 16 | Re: Waxoyling |
9 | Andy Woodward [azw@aber. | 20 | Re: Waxoyling |
10 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 21 | Re: Waxoyling |
11 | "Christian Lester." [cle | 15 | Mystery vibration solved! |
12 | "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn | 30 | soft top windows-Dave B |
13 | dbobeck@ushmm.org | 17 | Re: soft top windows-Dave B |
14 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 21 | Re: 2.25 Diesel |
15 | pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa. | 26 | Gearbox Giblets |
16 | Simon Taylor [simon@tdc. | 177 | RE: My horror story.... |
17 | NADdMD@aol.com | 25 | Re: Waxoyling |
18 | Brian Tuffs [btuffs@norc | 33 | Engine rebuild |
19 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 39 | Re: Engine rebuild |
20 | "Ed O'Neil" [Ed_ONeil@co | 33 | James Bay |
21 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 41 | Re: Engine rebuild |
22 | Christian Kuhtz [chk@fri | 6 | Re: 2.25 Diesel |
23 | "Tim Rushton" [tim@pavil | 27 | [not specified] |
24 | cyoungso@direct.ca (Chri | 38 | lpg conversions |
25 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 18 | Diesel and water do mix... |
26 | "spencer k. c. norcross" | 16 | Re: Waxoyling |
27 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 24 | Re: 2.25 Diesel |
28 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 26 | Re: Diesel and water do mix... |
29 | ASFCO@worldnet.att.net | 18 | Re: Waxoyling |
30 | lroshop@idirect.com | 27 | Re: James Bay |
31 | "Wayne R. Haight" [whaig | 23 | Series IIA questions - timing chain |
32 | Steve Stoneham [stoneham | 8 | Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number |
33 | Tony Treace [ATREACE@has | 13 | RE: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number |
34 | Sanna@aol.com | 34 | Re: Series IIA questions - timing chain |
35 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 26 | EUDORA (No LR content) |
36 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 43 | Converting to negative ground |
37 | Solihull@aol.com | 18 | Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88" |
38 | David Russell [David_R@m | 21 | Rear seats for an 88" |
39 | "Michael K. MacDonald" [ | 14 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
40 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 22 | Wasoyl (sic) |
41 | Gene Spagnuolo [espagnuo | 21 | RR sighting/ RR coolant |
42 | Deezilbob@aol.com | 10 | ENV diff seal |
43 | "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns | 13 | UK Supplier |
44 | Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm | 16 | Hella Headlights |
45 | LROInt@aol.com | 21 | North American Information Line |
46 | LROInt@aol.com | 14 | LROI WEB SITE |
47 | Bryn Hackland [bryn@hack | 32 | RE: UK Supplier |
48 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 33 | Re: Waxoyling |
49 | LPC [deec139@tom.fe.up.p | 25 | Gas Mileage |
50 | LPC [deec139@tom.fe.up.p | 10 | Gas Mileage |
51 | NADdMD@aol.com | 34 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
52 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 35 | Re: Gearbox Giblets |
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:04:40 -6 Subject: Re: Winch/PTO/Overdrive snip > that meet those specs. snip Why not Northern's belt drive pump? Mount it like a AC compressor. It has an electric clutch to engage/disengage it. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88" Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 07:14:01 -0500 From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> All- I am considering sale of my '65 SIIA Diesel. Now before you think of me as a trader or "selling out", understand that we have enjoyed the rover and the things it has allowed us to do so much that I have actually gotten clearance from the boss (ie. my loving wife) to upgrade to a more modern Rover, possibly even a Defender. I think its a great rover for the price, and the diesel is in great shape, as well as the rest of the rover (for all practical purposes, rust free). Let me know if you are interested and I'll fill you in with more details, and can send pictures. If it doesn't sell, so be it, I'd love to still hang on to it, I just want to see if there is any interest. Thanks, Keith ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:20:31 -0400 Subject: Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88" Where are you and how much would be nice.....8*) ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 8:23:54 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: blue smoke??? No doubt it's valve seals. Only remedy is to replace 'em. Don't fudge it by adding some glop that will simply thicken your oil. It's not a critical item unless oil consumption is high. I personally prefer the smoke, as it keeps the mosquito population in my neighborhood quite low as well as bothering my hillbilly next door neigbor. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Its done! Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:32:59 BST > Richard Marsden wrote: > > snip [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)] > And finally, you might want to check, in addition to the attachment of the > outer sheathing, that the internal cable is extended appropriately. Beforehand: Okay 0-40mph. Sometimes over 40mph it would stick just above 40mph... After: Either dead, or appears to work fine. (to check for the 40mph problem, will require a motorway drive really). I think I have an idea of the problem: There are three screws at the speedo housing end: One isn;t in properly. But, I can't get at it, to tighten it. This would require removing intermediate/shaft. Can't do that with the speedo cable in!! Any ideas? Must be a common problem? Also, some more strange vibrations yesterday. Admittedly I haven't tried driving her since I bolted the passenger floor panel down, but all this talk of UJs,etc. has me worried? How do I keep my mind at rest? Cheers, Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:41:10 BST > >How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without slarting > >the waxoyl all over the engine, ancillaries, wires, piping,etc? > This area should be sufficiently oiled already. If it isn't better check > your dipstick!!! Nope, oil was okay last week. The front-right top of the chassis is oily, this is due to an oil leak when I replaced the temp. sender (in the pipe to the oil cooler) - the civvie senders aren't *exactly* the same fit (plumber's tape and gasket sealant did the job). > Actually you do want to waxoyl those brake pipes, but the wiring could > probably be pushed out of the way. Hmm, although newish, they are going green... > Is waxoyl flammable? What happens when one attempts to weld or cut where > waxoyl is/has been. I, ermm, got some on my exhaust and it hasn't burnt *yet*, although it goes liquidy... I'd better get rid of it before the MOT! Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email). ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:56:30 +0200 (MET DST) | Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email). Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine last year. Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 14:07:35 BST > | Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email). > Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine > last year. The inside of the chassis? I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel tanks). Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:17:20 +0000 Subject: Re: Waxoyling >>How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without >>slarting the waxoyl all over the engine, ancillaries, wires, >>piping,etc? WWHy would you want to? The Waxoyl is abuot the best way of damproofing wires. As soon as I get a new bike, the whole wiring harness gets PLASTERED in the stuff. I ride in foul conditions alll winter and never a misfire....... >pipes, but the wiring could probably be pushed out of the way. Is >waxoyl flammable? What happens when one attempts to weld or cut where > waxoyl is/has been. wrroooOOOOOOF? ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 14:38:01 BST > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > >>How do I get at the chassis/etc in the engine compartment without [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] > >>piping,etc? > WWHy would you want to? The Waxoyl is abuot the best way of Maintainability? > harness gets PLASTERED in the stuff. I ride in foul conditions alll > winter and never a misfire....... [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] > > waxoyl is/has been. > wrroooOOOOOOF? I know a dog like that... ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:05:41 +0100 From: "Christian Lester." <clester@ibm.net> Subject: Mystery vibration solved! Dear All, Many thanks for all the responses to my query, as suggested I checked the UJ's in accordance with the Haynes manual and low and behold the rear UJ on the rear prop is shot. Sadly as I don't possess a hefty vice to fit a new spider & cups, I am having to take "Girty" to my local independent specialist, £30 all in, so I am not too distressed. Thanks again. Christian. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:53:07 -0700 (PDT) From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org> Subject: soft top windows-Dave B Dave on all the measurements allow for folding back and making a seam. I measured the opening from seams running parallel to the window. on the side panel (of course) 1. there is a seam that runs from the top to the bottom just behind the front door. measuring from here to the window opening is 11.75 inches 2. near the top there is a finished seam with reinforcing that connects the top piece with the side panel. Measuring from the bottom of this seam to the opening is 5 inches. 3. from the seam that runs near the bottom from the front to the back (located several inches fronm the bottom edge) measuring from this seam to the opening is 8.25 inches 4. from the rear finish seam on the pocket that the rear flaps fit into measuring from this seam to the opening is 11 5/8 inches. Hope this helps Dave. Paul G SIII SWB "Grendal" ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@ushmm.org Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 11:33:58 EST Subject: Re: soft top windows-Dave B >Dave >on all the measurements allow for folding back and making a >seam. I measured the opening from seams running parallel to the >window. >on the side panel (of course) >1.>>>lots of good information snipped<<<< >Hope this helps Dave. yes it does, but what about the size of the window? thanks again DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:11:19 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel Franz Parzefall wrote: > | ...Have a look at the swivel balls: they should be smooth ,shiny > | chrome. If they're heavily pitted they will need replacing and they're not > | the cheapest or easiest to replace part. > have a look inside them aswell. some owners replace the 90w with grease > when it no longer stays in. have seen completely drys, too. be sure > to check all the other fluids (axle diffs, g'box, t'box, engine oil, > brake and clutch, cooling system). gives you an impression about how > well it was maintained. And if there's grease in there replace it with 90wt. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:26:00 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>) Subject: Gearbox Giblets Richard Moves for the 1st time in weeks ... > With hindsight I should have replaced the 1st/2nd synchro, but it works, so > I'm not too bothered. Richard, What was the original reason for the rebuild ? I've forgotton in the mists of time. Also what was the final tally of bits replaced ? I need to know as I will have to perform major 2nd gear surgery to cure the old '2nd gear jumping out' problem on my SIII box. Did you replace anything else, (apart from the usual suspects) circlips, bearings etc ? Cheers, Paul. PS. sorry if you've posted it but i'm still catching up from 11-MAR-97 :-( ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Simon Taylor <simon@tdc.co.uk> Subject: RE: My horror story.... Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 16:31:53 +0100 Hmmmm. sounds familiar. I bought my SIII early in 1992. It was supplied with a new MOT from a = 'Land Rover Specialist' (not franchised) near Horsham. As I drove out, = the indicator was not working, even though the vehicle had been MOT'd = the same day. Cost was =A31750. During the summer, BOTH front chassis arms collapsed, I coudl not work = out at the time why the doors opened as I drove around corners ! - = basically the engine and gearbox was holding the whole thing together. = The 'dealer' reluctantly agreed to repair the chassis at 'cost'. Whilst = in his care, a roadspring I had left in the back was stolen. This repair = still cost me =A3250. December saw me repairing both rear spring = hangers. January 1993, and I took the vehicle for MOT. Failures were front = chassis arms repairs split, hole in top of crossmembers, and outriggers = were rotten. Basically the chassis was completely rotten and it seemed = strange it could have passed an MOT just 12 months before. Other = failures were noted such as exhaust supports failed etc. (see my web = page : http://ourworld.compuserve.com/hompages/simontaylor for pictures = and copy of the MOT! I repaired/rebuilt the vehicle at some extreme cost (galvanised chassis = etc.), and asked the dealer for compensation against the state of the = vehicle. I had even contacted the previous owner who stated that the = dealer had paid only =A3500 as he said the vehicle was not 'resaleable'. = - Funny, he sold it to me. I took the dealer to the small claims court, the first summons was = ignored, and judgement was granted. An appeal was lodged against the = judgement, as the dealer claimed the summons was sent to the wrong = address. At the subsequent hearing, the case was dismissed by the judge = basically on the grounds of 'buyer beware'. In the event, the legal action cost me =A370 to raise the small claim, = and must have cost the dealer a few hundred (they had offered me =A3700 = to settle out of court, as this was likely to be their expense). I lost the case, but won some sort of moral victory. I am now the proud owner of a mobile heirloom which has cost me many = thousands of pounds and nearly a divorce. I am also an expert on = corrosion and vehicular engineering. (I knew nothing when I bought it). Older and much wiser. Simon Taylor Telecom Design Communications Ltd. -------------------------------------------------- Visit our web site at http://www.tdc.co.uk TDC are UK distributors for : Rockwell Semiconductor Systems (Modems & Global Positioning Systems) Brooktree (Imaging, Graphics, High Speed Digital Communications) Aero Antenna & MicroPulse (GPS antennas) Navstar (Differential GPS base stations) Xecom (Line interface modules) Midcom (Transformers) -----Original Message----- From: Duncan Phillips Sent: 17 April 1997 09:31 To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com Cc: uk-lro@playground.sun.com Subject: My horror story.... I want to tell you a story.......one that should act as a warning to us all...... Recently (late January), our car (Ford Escort - I know, I know!!!) = failed it's MOT test miserably, needing ~=A3600 worth of work doing on it (the = car's only worth =A3800) so, needless to say, it had to go, this left a slight problem, we had the standard 2 weeks grace to either get the car fixed = or replace it. After much persuasion and 'lively debate' with my dearly beloved, we = agreed to get a good, late SIII. One condition that 'the boss' imposed was that rather than buying from a private advert (local papers, etc.) we should = go to one of the second-hand LR specialists, so that we'd have some kind of purchase protection. With only ten days left before the Ford was illegal, we trundled off up = to Huddersfield to a certain second-hand specialists (mentioning no names - the one with the big full page ad on the inside cover of LROi magazine - http://www.lrch.demon.co.uk - the one where they emphasise their = dedication to top quality, etc, etc). Once there we had a good look at a SWB late SIII. They were asking = =A33500 for it (ouch!), but it LOOKED very nice (carpeted throughout, county stripes, headlamp grilles, etc. very tidy) it sounded nice too. After giving it a quick look over (trusting in their quality spiel - big, BIG mistake. With hindsight I should have been under there for at least an = hour - I know!!) we decided to buy. They said they'd MOT it for us that week = and we'd pick it up on the following saturday. So we picked it up, paid our money and brought it home. Shortly after (1 week) I noticed coolant leaking on the road - the water pump had to be replaced, in the meantime we'd kept it well topped up(fortunately we had a 6-month maintenance warranty thing with it, so = it was fixed for free). A couple of weeks later I noticed she was still leaking coolant, so we took her to a local LR specialist who took her up = on the ramps only to find the following problems: * A 2" crack in the engine block just below the exhaust manifold (hence = the coolant leak * Oil seals gone (inc. handbrake seal) * Footwells holed (patched on the inside, but not sealed on the outside were water could get in). * Swivel housing very badly pitted * both front wheel oil seals gone Needless to say these things weren't covered under the 'warranty'. So, after much 'phoning the vendor agreed to fix all the problems for = free, with the exception of the engine (they said we must have over-heated it = - we couldn't prove otherwise) in the end we paid for a replacement second-hand engine which they fitted for free. OK, so I've had her back for about 2 weeks now and I notice oil splashes = on the front of one of the wheels, on closer inspection one of the = hub-bolts was not tightened up, so out came the spanner and I tried to tighten it, only to find that it had sheared off and was just sitting in the hole!!. = I thought I'd better check the other bolts and lo and behold they were all only finger-tight!! - I nearly went ballistic!! - this realy didn't look like a vehicle that had just undergone (and passed) an MOT test! Sooo the morals of my story are: When buying a second-hand LR TRUST NO-ONE!!! and ALL THAT GLITTERS ISN'T GOLD - just because it looks good it doesn't = mean it is!! It could be argued that I brought this on myself, but at the same time = we were in a hurry and (foolishly) thought that buying from a 'reputable' company would protect us from at least SOME of the pit-falls of = second-hand buying. How wrong we were. Needless to say I won't be going back to Huddersfield again!!. On a slightly up-beat note both my wife and I still love our LR and wouldn't be without her!. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:47:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Waxoyling In a message dated 97-04-17 12:35:43 EDT, you write: << > Yes, but more the inside. Got a good bunch of sand out of mine > last year. The inside of the chassis? I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel tanks). >> I find this collection of dirt in the chassis and outriggers very irritating. In comparison, the 2 Chevy trucks I drive have "C" shaped frame beams which don't allow significant amounts of dirt to acculmulate. I find I spend more time washing the dirt out of the LR frame than both Chevys combined. Anyone from Solihull listening, may take this as a suggestion... Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com> Subject: Engine rebuild Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:04:27 -0600 Hi everyone, Rookie engine rebuild questions: I've now pulled the head and have the following questions: (I keep hearing conflicting answers so am appealing to the lists collective wisdom). 1. IIA (petrol) block, cylinder bores are 20 thou. over and scored, pistons are good (~40,000km use), do I go with new pistons/rings and oversize to 30 thou. or can I use the existing pistons and sleeve the cylinders? What are the costs involved ?? 2. Head is shaved 1/100 thou. should I shave more, or can the existing surface be 'polished'? Stellite valve seats - a good idea? 3. Is a diesel camshaft a 'good' modification. I understand it will only effect initial pickup and not absolute power/torque but isn't this a desirable thing to have in a low-revving offroad situation? 4. Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I don't want to change the manifold) are. 5. To port or not to port, any direct experience with porting a SII head, good or bad ? I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, seals, rings etc as well as the carb and distributer. Anything else I should be looking out for?? Thanks in advance for your help, I look forward to having the old beast back on the road (offroad?) again soon. Brian Tuffs 66 (?) IIa "Blue" 84 T*yota BJ60 "Toyah" Various Mt. Bikes !!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:17:44 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Engine rebuild Brian Tuffs wrote: > snip > Stellite valve seats - a good idea? yes > 4. Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a > consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I > don't want to change the manifold) are. Why rule out the Zenith? ( a new Zenith can be had much cheaper than a new Solex and, I believe, needs only the same adaptors as the Weber). Since you say you don't want a manifold change I assume you mean the 1bbl Weber. Having said that, you're pulling the manifold off anyway to do the engine so changing to the Pierce for the 2bbl Weber really isn't extra effort, just cost. Or how about the Rochester :)? > I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, seals, rings etc as well as > the carb and distributer. Anything else I should be looking out for?? A new or rebuilt water pump and check the integrity of the mechanical fuel pump. Regarding the diesel cam... The recommendation I hear/recall are for the diesel crankshaft (stronger) and the 2.5l cam. Is your 2.25 a 7:1 or 8:1? I'd check the compression ratio and see if you want to shave more or leave it as is. While you've got the lot out/apart I'd look at getting the lot balanced including the flywheel. Probably more important than porting. From what I've heard porting a 2.25 won't hurt but is questioned by some as giving any real benefit. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:29:04 -0400 From: "Ed O'Neil" <Ed_ONeil@compuserve.com> Subject: James Bay Dear Kevin, I'm sorry that I have not been active on the old computer and that I haven't spoken to you about what I have found out as far as James Bay goes. I received the topo maps of the pertenent area and found that the one marked road id onbly passable in the winter as the Ontario side is mostly swamp. The roads that I saw with you on your computer are not even on the Topo maps as the last update was 1989-1990. So they are severly out of date--thats the Canadian Gov' for you. I did speadk to Mark Newman about the trip about one month ago and he told me that he spoke to you and you (or him) mentioned a postponement and a recce this summer I would think that this a good Idea, just to go up there and check it out and afterwords maybe in the winter do a promo or humaitarian trip. I have been very busy and just got back from Costa Rica on Vacation. I cvould not believe the number of Landrovers. In some towns every other vehicle is a Ser II or III .I am also the proud owner of a 94 NAS Defender 90 asas of the 10 of April. A bouncing baby boy in Arles Blue! Congrats on your Article in April LRO I read it at least twice and you make sound like it was A cold winter or somthing! I thought the day we scouted the off road site near you that you would be alot warmer than my non heated 110! I have been out to that site about three times now and might be there this week end --- I should call you if you have the time. Speak to you soon Ed O'Neil ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:35:40 -6 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Engine rebuild > 1. IIA (petrol) block, cylinder bores are 20 thou. over and scored, > pistons are good (~40,000km use), do I go with new pistons/rings and > oversize to 30 thou. or can I use the existing pistons and sleeve the > cylinders? What are the costs involved ?? Are the pistons *really* still ok. withthat much wear and damage, I'm supprised. Last I priced tthem sleeves & pistons were about teh same price (that was many years ago). > 2. Head is shaved 1/100 thou. should I shave more, or can the existing > surface be 'polished'? You only need to surface it if it needs it. > Stellite valve seats - a good idea? Yes > 3. Is a diesel camshaft a 'good' modification. I understand it will only > effect initial pickup and not absolute power/torque but isn't this a > desirable thing to have in a low-revving offroad situation? No experience on this one. >. > 4. Carbs - new Solex or Weber?? fuel economy is not (big) a > consideration, power and reliability (plus ease of installation - I > don't want to change the manifold) are. I've used Solex, Zenith, Rochester and Weber 2bbl. Beleive it or not I liked the Solex the best. But that was on an 88 beater I hauled firewood with. I've never done a comparison between new carbs on good engines. One or the other was always ragged out. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com> Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:41:24 -0600 (MDT) [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tim Rushton" <tim@pavilion.co.uk> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:54:25 +0100 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable unsubscribe land-rover-owner ------=_NextPart_000_01BC4B60.C53BB760 [ Original post was HTML ] charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY>unsubscribe land-rover-owner </BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_01BC4B60.C53BB760-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:55:45 -0700 From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson) Subject: lpg conversions >hy chris, >i have a series iia 1960, and i am about to fit an lpg kit in it. now how do [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)] >p.o.box 7513 >limassol,cyprus This requires shaving the head and/or installing high comprssion pistons. Correction on compr. ration needed: for LR use 10:1. You might have to stick with the original cam on a 2 1/4. A custom one might be a little pricey. I think do the other things mentioned below will make more sense. Best to take the engine to someone who knows how to do the math and is familiar with LPG engine building. Here are a few more goodies that will help out: -High energy ignition is definatly needed -Reduce heat transferred from Exhaust manifold to intake manifold and carb. The fuel is already vaour when it leaves the regulator/vaporizor, which is before the carb. Warming the vapour decreases the octane causing nasty detonation. -Change ignition advance curve and various other ignition properties. -Hardened valves and seats for sure. Gasolene cools the hot valves when it enters the cylinder, propane does not. -Might want to use cast iron rings instead of chrome. The fuel causes so little wear that chrome rings may never seat properly. Simple ha! :-) 73, Chris ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:08:46 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Diesel and water do mix... A diesel pump will not need a rebuild simply because it picks up some water from the tank. If this were the case, both my boat and my tractor would have died ages ago. The trick is to get the water out of the system ASAP and not let it get back in. Thing is,...a diesel engine will pump water OK, just won't burn it too well. If it dies because it has sucked up some water, just clean out the filters and bleed it. Don't let it sit with water in the pump or injectors. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:17:04 +0000 From: "spencer k. c. norcross" <spencern@acr.org> Subject: Re: Waxoyling Franz Parzefall or someone wrote... | Franz also suggests pressure cleaning (via private email). i tried that once, but my volume of e-mail is fairly low, all i succeeded in doing was getting my seats soggy :) spenny Arlington, VA 1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine Land Rover, 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:45:32 -6 Subject: Re: 2.25 Diesel > Tom Rowe is said to have hastily scribbled the following: > > Water will wipe out a pump quicker than you can imagine. > Why is that btw? Cavitation like stuff because of excessive pressures? > Does the water displace the lubricant? Tolerances in the injection system are *very* close, much closer than general engine build tolerances. Water will not hold the moving parts away from each other the way the oil will. You end up with metal to metal contact in the injection pump. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:53:00 -6 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Diesel and water do mix... > A diesel pump will not need a rebuild simply because it picks up some > water from the tank. snip I didn't mean to imply that it would immediately need rebuilding. Water doesn't lubricate the pump the way it's designed to be lubricated by the fuel. The more water, the shorter the life. If you wonder why many diesels smoke excessively, it's commonly faulty injection. Worn pumps and injectors. (also bad timming). But as we all know they continue to run, even when spewing opaque clouds. You''ll want to keep your diesel in optimum ruuning condidtion. The new EPA rules have much stricter rules for diesel emissions. So my suggestion is still to get a good filter/seperator. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:10:00 +0000 At 02:17 PM 4/17/97 +0000, you wrote: >New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ >Franz Parzefall or someone wrote... [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)] >1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine >Land Rover, 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway Spen; Yeah but, That was before Alan fixed the floor!! Rgds Steve Bradke 96 Discovery WA2GMC 72 S lll 88 (For Sale) 68 S lla 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lroshop@idirect.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:23:43 +0000 Subject: Re: James Bay Good to hear from you. Since we last spoke lots has happened. Give me a call if you can make it out this way. We can get together for a chat and I can tell you all I have been doing on various fronts. regards Kevin. Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:29:04 -0400 > From: "Ed O'Neil" <Ed_ONeil@compuserve.com> > Subject: James Bay > Reply-to: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com > To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com > X-To: lro <lro@playground.sun.com> > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > Dear Kevin, [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)] > Speak to you soon > Ed O'Neil LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:43:16 -1000 From: "Wayne R. Haight" <whaight@hawaii.edu> Subject: Series IIA questions - timing chain Aloha all! My 1970 Series IIA SWB [(Kololohi) it means "slow crawl" in Hawaiian] began rattling on start up a few months ago and has gotten progressively louder. I have isolated the rattle to the timing chain area, so I guess it's time to replace the chain. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or an insiders view on the job? Besides the chain itself, what other bits should I replace while I'm in there? Also my gearbox occasionally jumps out of gear. Would new detent springs help, or is this a sign that I will eventually have to rebuild it? Thanks, Wayne R. Haight Senior Fisheries Research Specialist Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research NOAA/University of Hawaii 2570 Dole Street Honolulu, Hawaii 96822, (808) 943-1236 ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:01:47 -0700 From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca> Subject: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number Does anyone happen to have Scotty's phone number in California handy? Thanks, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tony Treace <ATREACE@hasimons.com> Subject: RE: Scotty's (engine adapter)phone number Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:06:24 -0700 Try (510) 686-2255 >---------- >From: Steve Stoneham[SMTP:stoneham@sympatico.ca] [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] >Thanks, >Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:02:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Series IIA questions - timing chain >I >have isolated the rattle to the timing chain area, so I guess it's time to >replace the chain. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or an insiders view on >the job? I've done it several times on my '70 IIa (Lulubelle). Lu had chronic low oil pressure (42lb) since I bought her untill I replaced the oil pump at about 200K (60lb). The low oil pressure led to insufficient tensioning of the chain which then did a lot of whapping on the vibration damper. When the surface of the dampener wore out the chain would get very noisey, especially on deceleration. Twice it broke. Replacing is straight forward. Just start at the grill and start removing parts untill you get to the chain. As far as I can remember, you should replace the vibration dampener, the idler gear, the chain, and the TC cover gasket. Possibly, you should do the tensioner as well. BE SURE TO REASSEMBLE WITH CORRECT GEAR POSITION, or you'll never get it timed. It's all in the manual. The only skill required is correct use of a socket wrench. Good luck. Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Ave. Middleton, WI 53562 1-800-373-7226 ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:06:11 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: EUDORA (No LR content) Does anyone here use Eudora for e-mail, or Eudora veiwer? Anyone know where / if I can download it/tem on the net? Anyone have experience with these programmes? E-mail replies privately to avoid cluttering LRO with this topic! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Converting to negative ground Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 09:48:00 +1000 I'm not that sure that this is that hard to do. In fact it's bloody easy. My son bought a 1966 Hillman (with a generator no alternatora) last year and it was positive ground. When he pulled the battery out, he didn't notice. When he put it back, not knowing about positive earth systems, he put it in the wrong way around. I'm surprised he didn't notice that the terminals were different diameters. (He was, at the time, only a first year apprentice mechanic and they don't see many old cars where he works). He had absolutely no problems. The generator and starter must have got a flash to change their polarity and they worked fine. He didn't have a car radio so there was no problem there. We left the car as it was and it still runs happily not knowing it's had a sex change. However, had there been an ammeter installed that would have indicated backward. The only things I can think of that might need checking are radios and anything else that is electronic. Best Regards, Ron Beckett Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews" Emu Plains, Australia '87 Range Rover 4.8L auto '67 Hillman Gazelle '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - for pictures see http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:15:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: For Sale: 2.25 Diesel SIIA 88" Doc, FWIW, I've got my s3 88 on the block, too. Hope to get almost 10K, but I've done *lots* of work on her. Once sold, I'll need another. I *hate* being Rover-less. What do you want for yours? Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:18:36 -0400 From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> Subject: Rear seats for an 88" To who(m?)ever was looking for a set, I have one. please e-mail direct. Cheers David Russell David_R@mindspring.com 1969 Series IIA SWB (runs great, just needs a new frame) 1977 FJ-40 Land Cruiser (non-running) rusted-out hulk 1996 Grand Cherokee--"I wish I were a Discovery" http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r <---NEW stuff, just updated!! "Intel Inside"...The world's most widely used warning label." (unknown) courtesy Nanther's Mac Quotes, http://members.aol.com/twfms/macquotes.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:50:47 -0700 (PDT) From: "Michael K. MacDonald" <mkmacd@seanet.com> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest I will be trailering my latest baby this coming week, to bring it 1000 miles to it's new home. Anyone out there have some experience with chaining a Series Rover down? What to attach the chain to. What NOT to attach the chains to, etc.? Thanks, Mike MacDonald 1957 88" Series I "Don Quixote" ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:54:40 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Wasoyl (sic) Dave B. wrote: >Is waxoyl flammable? Unfortunately, yes. Even worse, the EPA has declared it "hazardous" which means you can't ship it UPS without their big hazardous freigtht surcharge and it can't be shipped by air anymore. Supply of Waxoyl in the US is going to vanish quickly. (Glad I just bought 7.5 litres!) Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:21:53 -0700 From: Gene Spagnuolo <espagnuo@gte.net> Subject: RR sighting/ RR coolant In The Saint, the main character may drive a Volvo, but the Bad Guys drive a Range Rover. Which they eventually blow up (damn Hollywood). If you see it check one of the late scenes (Val Kilmer's house from a distance) and see if the car in the driveway is the same Rover, I couldn't make it out, and it was a quick scene. I'm also looking for help. I have a 1988 Range Rover (unnamed) which has been running hot. It hasn't overheated (yet), but I'm always concerned. I've flushed it, and put in a new thermostat (tested). The fans work, and the belts are tight. Any other suggestions? Thanks Gene Spagnuolo espagnuo@gte.net 1988 RR If my Rover's trying to name itself, it must be Pieces. Pieces in the car, Pieces on the floor, Pieces on the counter. ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Deezilbob@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:51:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: ENV diff seal the old part # 549412 is still a good number. I just got 2 from Rovers North in Vermont, U.S.A., $14.99 a piece, they had one in stock and had to order one from England, something about the last time they sold one was 14 years ago....... ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:06:44 -0700 From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: UK Supplier Having seen a thread about not so good springs from Padd**k in the UK, how would their "Lucas" distributor fair? After market with a Lucas description/ or the real McCoy? Have a friend going over and I want a new dist. for Pig. Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" 1962 II 88 "Millie" ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:22:26 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com> Subject: Hella Headlights I have bought Hellas through Imparts Ltd, 800-325-9043, and also locally here in New Hampshire at the Auto Palace chain of auto parts stores. Hella's number is 800-247-5924. There can send I little flyer on their lights or if you ask for the 1997/1998 Performance Lighting and Accessories Catalog, they will send out the 80 page catalog with the picture of 8 CT Discos on the cover. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler@srnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LROInt@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:25:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: North American Information Line The Land Rover Owner International North American Events Information Line has been updated and now includes detailed entries for the OVLR Birthday Bash, Down East, Mid Atlantic as well as the Atlantic British Off Road Weekend and The Silihull Society rally. If anyone has any other events to be included please let us know by email. We currently have 5 options available but if usage and interest warrants it we will add further options. Please be sure to provide other owners without the luxury of an Internet facility with the number and include it with your newsletters. The number is 905-436-7813. Many thanks Kevin Girling for LROI. ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LROInt@aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:33:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: LROI WEB SITE We are hoping to expand our resource centre and need input from owners about other sites throughout the world that are relevant to Land Rover. If you have any ideas or information you think should be included on the site please let us know by emailing us directly. If you are unfamiliar with the site please visit it at: http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/ Many thanks. ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Bryn Hackland <bryn@hackland.demon.co.uk> Subject: RE: UK Supplier Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 05:14:13 +0100 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC4BB7.67BA6B20" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can recommend DLS at Wirksworth, Derbyshire. They advertise in LRO but the phone number is 01629 822185 and fax 01629 825683 Bryn Hackland 1970 IIA 'Bluebell' ---------- From: Con P. Seitl[SMTP:seitl@ns.sympatico.ca] Sent: 17 April 1997 18:06 Subject: UK Supplier New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ Having seen a thread about not so good springs from Padd**k in the UK, how would their "Lucas" distributor fair? After market with a Lucas description/ or the real McCoy? Have a friend going over and I want a new dist. for Pig. Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" 1962 II 88 "Millie" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4BB7.67BA6B20 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Waxoyling Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 08:02:20 +0200 (MET DST) | The inside of the chassis? Yes. It all started when I found half that gearbox crossmember was filled with sand. On the (military) 110 it's a ~10cm diameter pipe which bottom pokes out about 1cm so you normally can look throu. Then I felt with the finger inside the fraim rails (dunno if Series frames have that big access holes at the bottom as my 110) and found sand in there, too. Then I bought 2m cheap plastic hope just small enough that it went through the frame holes. I sticked it in as far as possible, connected it to the garden hose and washed the inside until no more sand came out. After several weeks the frame looked dry when I put a small light bulb inside and I went on with the sprayer. For the inside I had a special sprayer with a 1m hose and a nozzle at the end. Worked just fine. You may be able to borrow one from an auto workshop. | I noticed I have quite a bit on my outriggers/etc (eg. the sides of the fuel | tanks). Have a look inside... Keep the (wax)oily side down, Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:37:52 +0000 (GMT) From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt> Subject: Gas Mileage Hi everyone!! I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...). Actually it does about 20 mi/gal (14 l/100Km). Is it too much??? A fried of mine has also a rover and it is doing 28 mi/gal (10 l/100km) My car does a lot of white stinking smoke but it is not burning oil. I think that the engine is not fine tuned. Hoping to get some answers... Regards Luis PS Does anyone have the torque settings for the cranckcase?? ------------------------------- 1981 LR 88 Serie III ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:56:57 +0000 (GMT) From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt> Subject: Gas Mileage > Hi everyone!! > I think my Land Rover has a poor gas mileage (I supose...). [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)] > ------------------------------- > 1981 LR 88 Serie III ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 06:29:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest In a message dated 97-04-17 21:35:58 EDT, you write: << I will be trailering my latest baby this coming week, to bring it 1000 miles to it's new home. Anyone out there have some experience with chaining a Series Rover down? What to attach the chain to. What NOT to attach the chains to, etc.? >> I assume you mean on a flat bed trailer. If so, I have used the axles, if the brakelines are free from the chain if not, I have also used the front bumper if firmly attached and through the PTO hole in the rear. MORE IMPORTANTLY: 1. Put the truck in neutral. 2. Put the transfer case in neutral 3. Don't apply the handbrake REASON: 1. You do not want the truck to move back and forth (even that slight little bit). This would potentially wear the timing chain or gear box. While this is more critical in high performance sports cars, the principle is the same in the tolerant LR. Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Gearbox Giblets Date: Fri, 18 Apr 97 11:47:08 BST > Richard Moves for the 1st time in weeks ... > > With hindsight I should have replaced the 1st/2nd synchro, but it works, so [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)] > What was the original reason for the rebuild ? I've forgotton in the mists of > time. Generally nosie 'box meant it would happen eventually, but some really horrible noise whilst driving down from Leeds in the New Year. I think this was probably in the 4wd case (not proven conclusively). Also handbrake was in bad shape - various other noises just before the rebuild was probably from the "contents" of the brake drum... > Also what was the final tally of bits replaced ? Drive Shaft (+dog) in the 4wd housing, one of the lever shafts in the same housing (these bits aren't meant to wear out much), reverse gear (chewed - I've selected rev. by accident once or twice - probably the springs), layshaft (matching reverse gear, although not as chewed) one of the gears in the transfer case, all the springs, all the oil seals, all the bearings, all the circlips, handbrake rebuild kits, springs and shoes. > I need to know as I will have to perform major 2nd gear surgery to cure the old > '2nd gear jumping out' problem on my SIII box. Why's it always 1st/2nd and not 3rd/4th synchro! :-) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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