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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Lodelane@aol.com | 12 | Re: Rochester Carb Questions |
2 | Lodelane@aol.com | 12 | Re: Rochester Carb Questions |
3 | Michel Bertrand [mbertra | 32 | Re: Strange objects found in fuel tank |
4 | Michel Bertrand [mbertra | 24 | tims@postoffice... |
5 | Tom Peacey [tom.peacey@s | 25 | JATE rings for Discovery |
6 | Tom Peacey [tom.peacey@s | 25 | JATE rings for Discovery |
7 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 19 | Re: tims@postoffice... |
8 | Nick Fankhauser [nickf@c | 42 | re:Converting to neg ground |
9 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 24 | Tips...yesterday's & today's |
10 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 20 | Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's |
11 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 11 | Re: Lucas is no more? |
12 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr | 13 | Re: Lucas is no more? |
13 | Tom Peacey [tom.peacey@s | 25 | JATE rings for Discovery |
14 | James Curtis [staff@stjo | 16 | T3 Turbocharger for sale |
15 | James Curtis [staff@stjo | 20 | Winch / PTO / Overdrive |
16 | James Curtis [staff@stjo | 20 | Winch / PTO / Overdrive |
17 | "Adamson, John G" [adams | 36 | Wanted Parts for '65 2a |
18 | Sanna@aol.com | 63 | Re: soft top on 88 questions |
19 | sukkertoppen@ax.apc.org | 10 | Unsubscribe - for now... |
20 | DONOHUEPE@aol.com | 45 | Rochester Carb Question |
21 | oboskyr@mail.interquest. | 23 | R/R starting problems |
22 | David L Glaser [dlglaser | 13 | 92 mph Series II? |
23 | johnsonm@borg.com (myk) | 20 | Re: R/R starting problems |
24 | Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr | 21 | Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's |
25 | NADdMD@aol.com | 17 | Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's |
26 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr | 184 | Electronic telegraph... |
27 | "Christopher H. Dow" [do | 9 | Sill Trim |
28 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 30 | Re: Sill Trim |
29 | Floris Houniet [Houniet@ | 30 | Re: Winch / PTO / Overdrive |
30 | "Christian Lester." [cle | 15 | Mystery vibration. |
31 | NADdMD@aol.com | 20 | Re: Sill Trim |
32 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 20 | New LR Centre |
33 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 27 | Hella Headlights |
34 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 32 | Bushed |
35 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | Hella Headlights |
36 | "Matthew J. Clement" [ma | 50 | UK-Style License Plates For Sale |
37 | "bos" [bos@bellsouth.net | 15 | Re: UK-Style License Plates For Sale |
38 | BigAlSk8r@aol.com | 11 | Help!!!!! 2 1/4 petrol engine |
39 | "C. Marin Faure" [faurec | 53 | Electrical shorts |
40 | Michel Bertrand [mbertra | 25 | Re: Help!!!!! 2 1/4 petrol engine |
41 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 19 | Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's |
42 | oboskyr@mail.interquest. | 18 | Re: Mystery vibration. |
43 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 14 | Re: Mystery vibration. |
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:44:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Rochester Carb Questions Michel, You want the carb from a 1957 General Motors 235 cubic inch six cylinder. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:45:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Rochester Carb Questions Michel, You want the carb from a 1957 General Motors 235 cubic inch six cylinder. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:55:45 -0400 From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca> Subject: Re: Strange objects found in fuel tank At 12:23 97-04-15 +0200, you wrote: >Hi all -I'm cleaning out the fuel tank of my 59 SW, and I found these two (lead?) >squares, about 20mm x 20mm x 5mm, marked "CFLO". Is this some snake oil from >the sixties to improve milage or something? And no, they're not magnetic :-) - >Wouter >the sixties to improve milage or something? And no, they're not magnetic :-) --- Possible answers: 1) Somebody who tried to convert unleaded fuel to leaded fuel for a small cost? 2) Some kid wanted to ruin the PO's engine but couldn't make the difference between sugar and lead? 3) CFLO means Canadian Foreign Lead Object which means your Landie was originally sold in Newfoundland, Canada Michel Bertrand ______ Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, / __ / \ 1963 109 PU (Rudolph) | Lucas | 1968 109 SW (in the works) | Inside | 1973 88 SW (21st century project) \ / \______/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:59:19 -0400 From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca> Subject: tims@postoffice... Am I the only one who gets a TFS delivery failure message that says this: Your message to the following recipients was undeliverable: paulc@postoffice.durango.mjt.com everytime I send a message to the list? It is annoying, Thanks, Michel Bertrand ______ Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, / __ / \ 1963 109 PU (Rudolph) | Lucas | 1968 109 SW (in the works) | Inside | 1973 88 SW (21st century project) \ / \______/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:02:51 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@service.britgas.co.uk> Subject: JATE rings for Discovery Hello, I fitted a set of front and rear JATE rings to my '95 V8 Discovery. They are part number RRC3237 and are aluminium U shapes. You need to buy a long bolt and a nyloc nut for each one. The rear ones fit in place of the lashing loops with no problem. Just tighten the nuts so that the ring can swing backwards and forwards. The front ones were a pain in the arse to fit. I removed the lashing loop and found that the JATE ring was too narrow to go over the chassis because the bumper mounts in the same place. I got round this by filing down the flats on the inside of the JATE rings. They fit fine after that and poke out of the front spoiler holes like they are meant to be there. Tom. '95 V8 Discovery _____ [][][\__ / |^----^-| / (o) (o) ,,,/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:28:13 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@service.britgas.co.uk> Subject: JATE rings for Discovery Hello, I fitted a set of front and rear JATE rings to my '95 V8 Discovery. They are part number RRC3237 and are aluminium U shapes. You need to buy a long bolt and a nyloc nut for each one. The rear ones fit in place of the lashing loops with no problem. Just tighten the nuts so that the ring can swing backwards and forwards. The front ones were a pain in the arse to fit. I removed the lashing loop and found that the JATE ring was too narrow to go over the chassis because the bumper mounts in the same place. I got round this by filing down the flats on the inside of the JATE rings. They fit fine after that and poke out of the front spoiler holes like they are meant to be there. Tom. '95 V8 Discovery _____ [][][\__ / |^----^-| / (o) (o) ,,,/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 08:35:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: tims@postoffice... In a message dated 4/15/97 8:00:57 AM, you wrote: >Am I the only one who gets a TFS delivery failure message that says this: >Your message to the following recipients was undeliverable: [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] >paulc@postoffice.durango.mjt.com >everytime I send a message to the list? No, you aren't alone. Got my first few these past few days... could it be the onset of another "Undeliverable Mail" barrage? pat. 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:55:31 -0500 From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us> Subject: re:Converting to neg ground *snip* Can someone enlighten me on the procedure for making this switchover? = Things I've seen mention of are switching or diabling the ammeter, = swapping the coil leads, and something with the fuel guage. What else is = there to worry about? Thanks much, *snip* Tim- I haven't completed mine yet, so this is partly theoretical, but here are my plans based on what I learned from folks here & elsewhere- I'm fabricating a mount for the alternator, and getting one of the newer ones that have the regulator built-in to the alternator. This makes the wiring much simpler. (Save those old parts for barter with folks to whom *original* restoration matters!) The rest of wiring only gets changed in three ways- 1) swap the battery leads 2) swap the coil leads 3) swap the ammeter leads, and in my case, I will be adding a shunt resistor to the meter because I expect the alternator to generate about twice the current in some situations. This means that the markings will be wrong, but with a little adjustment, I should be able to exactly double the current values. When I know what the resistance is (probably several months from now), I will post it here. Without a shunt resistor, the ammeter will probably be pegged at the top end a lot, and I suppose might even be damaged. I've been told that everything else works without alteration- even the other dash guages. If you get this done before I do, I'd like to hear how the theory stands up to reality. -NickF Nick Fankhauser | Wayne County Information Systems Department NickF@co.wayne.in.us | http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 9:01:09 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Tips...yesterday's & today's Yesterday was a drag...Granulocyte donation in the a.m. (2.5 hours on the chair) and an office move in the afternoon. Anyway, here's yesterday's tip... Next time you fill up with gas ask for a couple of extra plastic gloves. These come in handy when you don't wish to get your hands soiled should you need to get under the bonnet for any reason, like checking the oil at the filling station. I keep some on the bulkhead for filling the diesel tank. Keeps the stink off your paws. And today's... Extend the life of your wiper blades by running a slice of apple along the edges. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:12:22 +0200 (MET DST) | And today's... | Extend the life of your wiper blades by running a slice of apple along | the edges. ????? sounds like this snake oil things.... Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 06:57:33 -0400 Subject: Re: Lucas is no more? Re:Varity, Prince of Darkness? I'm not worried - it's still the same one lonely electron per car...... aj"Truck's STILL got Lucas stamped all over it..."r ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 09:43:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Lucas is no more? On Tue, 15 Apr 1997, Lucking, Richard wrote: > According to an article in todays "Daily Telegraph", Varity Corporation > (Lucas's new owners) are considering changing the name as part of a > "World-wide Identity Review" Isn't Varity the new name of Massey Ferguson? (changed it some 15 years ago after going bust under the old name) ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:14:24 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@service.britgas.co.uk> Subject: JATE rings for Discovery Hello, I fitted a set of front and rear JATE rings to my '95 V8 Discovery. They are part number RRC3237 and are aluminium U shapes. You need to buy a long bolt and a nyloc nut for each one. The rear ones fit in place of the lashing loops with no problem. Just tighten the nuts so that the ring can swing backwards and forwards. The front ones were a pain in the arse to fit. I removed the lashing loop and found that the JATE ring was too narrow to go over the chassis because the bumper mounts in the same place. I got round this by filing down the flats on the inside of the JATE rings. They fit fine after that and poke out of the front spoiler holes like they are meant to be there. Tom. '95 V8 Discovery _____ [][][\__ / |^----^-| / (o) (o) ,,,/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:15:16 +0100 From: James Curtis <staff@stjohnsba.rmplc.co.uk> Subject: T3 Turbocharger for sale Just a quickie ad: Garratt T3 Turbocharger for sale. Good condition, Suitable for most of the 4 - 6 cylinder Land Rover (Hybrid) engines. To be honest I am not sure what their second hand value is but I am looking for offers around =A3120 Area: Newcastle upon Tyne (UK) ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:15:45 +0100 From: James Curtis <staff@stjohnsba.rmplc.co.uk> Subject: Winch / PTO / Overdrive I have a Series II 1960 with a "Mayflower" winch attached. It is a PTO drum winch operating off the rear PTO. In order to be able to afford to move my lovely beastie more than 1 mile away from my home I have fitted an overdrive... All very well... It is reasonably efficient 17mpg and VERY fast... 92mph (original engine)BUT... The lovely winch that sits on the front is redundant. I do a fair bit of work on boats so a working winch would be useful... Is it possible to run it off the front of the crank shaft or even convert to electric... I am looking for the immaginative "weld it yourself" option rather than a list of suppliers of parts to do the job "bolt on and go" fashion. Thanks in advance... James Curtis (Newcastle U.K.) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:26:32 +0100 From: James Curtis <staff@stjohnsba.rmplc.co.uk> Subject: Winch / PTO / Overdrive I have a Series II 1960 with a "Mayflower" winch attached. It is a PTO drum winch operating off the rear PTO. In order to be able to afford to move my lovely beastie more than 1 mile away from my home I have fitted an overdrive... All very well... It is reasonably efficient 17mpg and VERY fast... 92mph (original engine)BUT... The lovely winch that sits on the front is redundant. I do a fair bit of work on boats so a working winch would be useful... Is it possible to run it off the front of the crank shaft or even convert to electric... I am looking for the immaginative "weld it yourself" option rather than a list of suppliers of parts to do the job "bolt on and go" fashion. Thanks in advance... James Curtis (Newcastle U.K.) ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu> Subject: Wanted Parts for '65 2a Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 10:59:23 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu> Subject: Wanted Parts for '65 2a Message-ID: <SIMEON.9701091153.A@computis.jmu.edu> I recently acquired a 1965 IIA Rover from Mike McCaig. I have already stripped it down to the chassis and ordered a crate of necessary parts from England; however, there are some body parts that I still need. I know I can order them as well, but I would like to avoid having to pay for these items new if I can find some used ones elsewhere. I need a complete front right wing, as I have nothing at the moment. The left wing I have is in rough shape. I would like to replace it too if possible. I also need the sides for a top. If anyone within a reasonable drive of Richmond, Virginia has these parts, a response or referral would be appreciated. Thank you for your time. John -- Adamson, John G adamsojg@jmu.edu --- End Forwarded Message --- -- Adamson, John G adamsojg@jmu.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:32:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: soft top on 88 questions Clayton - I was in the same boat 25 years ago when I ditched the hard top on my 88; lots of parts & no instructions. Here goes: All the major pieces (hoops, windshield cap, door tops, etc.) should be self evident. Here's where the straps go, along with their related loops & fasteners. You've got 2 sets of long straps. One pair goes straight down the back and fastens to a pair of the small flat loops positioned by the tailgate latches. The front set pull the attached canvas flap behind the front major hoop and then fasten to another set of flat loops mounted above the windshield (alt. is to take them straight down to the back of the seat bulkhead, but this gets in the way somewhat). The web ties that run back from the two front corners hook under the tabs in the door tops and then is pulled tight and simply tied around the horizontal brace between the major top hoops. The top's front sides are then tucked in behind the flat metal wind protectors at the back of the door windows, and secured by strapping around the hoop on the inside. The open-ended galvanized catch mounts on the flat just above the curve of the side panel just behind the door and serves to retain the canvas side's drawsting loop. The drawstring goes under the tabs that are welded to the truck, are pulled tight and then tied to the horse-shoe shaped loops that you'll mount in the upper-outside corners of the back by the stop lights. The drawstring that goes around the perimeter of the back opening is pulled tight to snug up the fit (& close the upper corners), and then tied off to the hoops. The rear flap is the fixed by running the side straps through the pockets on the canvas sides, and hooking the bottom rope on the hook in one of the pockets, under the metal tabs on your tailgate (pull tight), around the hook in the other side pocket, then down to the horseshoe loop and tied off. The bit of rubber is pop-riveted to the top center of the windshield cap so that the screen won't bang around on the hood when it's folded down. The other straps are used when you roll up the back & sides, and can be left dangling for that familiar flappity-flap sound on rough roads. If you lay the top flat, fold the sides in to the width of the rear flap (you'll be folding in a little of each side of the front part too), toss all the straps in and roll. The whole shebang will fit snugly up one side of the rear floor and tuck into the space between the spare and the wheel well. Rolled like this (and with a bit of practice) you should be able to fling to canvas up & over the truck so that it rolls open in mid-air and settles down on the hoops in almost perfect position. Then just climb on the hood, attach the front loops, go to the back of the truck to tie the straps down, loop the door-top straps under their tabs and tie off to the horizontal bar, run the front straps behind the front hoop and fasten to the windshiel top, tie down the sides & back if you want, and Voila, your off. ...about 3-4 minutes when your good at it (or in a downpour). The fling is the key, though. It's all in the wrist. Or you could send it all back and order the Genuine Land Rover Power Top kit... Good luck. Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Ave. Middleton, WI 53562 1-800-373-7226 ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:00:29 -0200 From: sukkertoppen@ax.apc.org (Jacob G. Glahn) Subject: Unsubscribe - for now... >From: debrown@srp.gov >Date: 14 Apr 97 11:44:06 MST [ truncated by list-digester (was 55 lines)] >his enemies; for the hardest victory | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} >is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 12:48:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Rochester Carb Question Subject: Rochester Carb part needed + question On Sat, 12 April 1997 Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca> wrote: "I have a Rochester Carb that was fitted on a 1962 109 that is leaking." Michel: I have a 1965 109 that leaks too. They all do. If it is the carb that leaks, it belongs on a Land Rover where it will feel at home. "I need to find a kit to fix or to replace the bottom part of the carb (under the "bowl") since fuel is leaking thru the shaft that goes across the base." The part you want is called the throttle body. I have bought these from carburetor service shops. You might get lucky and still find one. They were made of cast iron in several sizes, so take yours with. If it will fit onto your float bowl it should work, even if the throttle bore is larger than your original. It sounds like the problem with your carb may be a worn throttle shaft. The nickel plated brass shaft is much softer than the cast iron throttle body. You may be able to buy just the throttle shaft. If so get new screws to attach the throttle plate to the shaft. These screws are peened in place and are difficult to re-use. Also get a rebuild kit and install these parts while the carb is accessible. Be sure to set the floats correctly. "On what american models were these carburetors fitted?" Early 1950s Chevrolet & GMC products. The one you want is the Rochester Model BV 1bbl, it has a 30.9mm venturi and flows 167cfm. If you get a whole carb, get one from a pickup, as these are fitted for manual choke and have an airhorn which adapts easily to the Land Rover air cleaner elbow. Keep them Rovers Running! Paul Donohue Denver 1965 109 with Rochester ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 18:15:53 +0000 Subject: R/R starting problems Hello, A friend of mine has an '82 Range Rover (3.5 petrol) that doesn't want to start after the engine is warmed up, but does just fine when it's cold. Prior to this problem he replaced his spark plugs, cap, rotor, points, condenser and exhaust system. A local mechanic suggested that he has a cam going bad; to me, a worn cam creating an intermittent problem doesn't make much sense. I'm leaning towards one of the distributer components that was recently changed being faulty. Is there any Range Rover owners out there that have incountered a problem like this ? What about vapor lock ? Cheers, Reggie O '82 Series III LR "Matilda" ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:09:22 -0400 From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu> Subject: 92 mph Series II? > I have a Series II 1960...I have fitted an overdrive... All very >well... It is reasonably efficient 17mpg and VERY fast... 92mph >(original engine) 92 mph in a Series II??? Original Engine??? Don't tell me its a diesel. Is this a typo? Rover On, David L Glaser '94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6 (MayaTruk) dlglaser@wam.umd.edu '94 Discovery, Teal ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 14:55:02 -0400 From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk) Subject: Re: R/R starting problems A friend of mine has an '82 Range Rover (3.5 petrol) that doesn't want to start after the engine is warmed up, but does just fine when it's cold. Prior to this problem he replaced his spark plugs, cap, rotor, points, condenser and exhaust system. A local mechanic suggested that he has a cam going bad; to me, a worn cam creating an intermittent problem doesn't make much sense. I'm leaning towards one of the distributer components that was recently changed being faulty. Is there any Range Rover owners out there that have incountered a problem like this ? What about vapor lock ? I don't know much about Rangies since it's a coiler. But, if it has an O2 sensor that would be a classic example of sensor failure. cheers, Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 12:54:30 -0700 From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's At 09:01 AM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote: >the filling station. I keep some on the bulkhead for filling the diesel >tank. Keeps the stink off your paws. Oh come on, you own a Land Rover, and you're worried about a little gasoline/diesel smell? 8^) >Extend the life of your wiper blades by running a slice of apple along >the edges. On a regular basis, or one time when installing them? How often? How come? Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:08:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's In a message dated 97-04-15 15:59:43 EDT, you write: << At 09:01 AM 4/15/97 -0400, you wrote: >the filling station. I keep some on the bulkhead for filling the diesel >tank. Keeps the stink off your paws. Oh come on, you own a Land Rover, and you're worried about a little gasoline/diesel smell? 8^) >> I like to think of it as Chanel No. (87, 89 or 93 depending) for men Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:08:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Electronic telegraph... 'THE world is waiting for British cars." If you hang around Dr Walter Hasselkus, the 55-year-old German lawyer now running Rover, you'll hear the mantra more than once. Personally, I wouldn't want to say whether Hasselkus believes it himself or not. He might be the keenest Anglophile in a company where a passion for all things British does you more favours with the boss than a marginally inferior golf handicap, but he still possesses the impenetrable cool that seems the birthright of every well-educated German. Don't let that make you think Hasselkus is anything but extraordinary; there's no space for make-weights on the tiny board of one of Europe's most consistently successful companies. However, an easy familiarity with the English language, learnt over four years running BMW GB in the 1980s, means Hasselkus relies on charm not candour when talking about the billion-pound derelict that BMW acquired in March 1994. He likes to talk about how he got the job because he is known, once a year, to crack a joke, which, as a German, makes him a comic genius and a certain hit with the "famous British sense of humour". "When a German gives a speech in Britain the expectations are so low," he says. Or how, in the 12 years he was away from the UK, so much has changed, but the only German wine available is still Blue Nun. And of course that ever optimistic panacea: "The world is waiting for British cars." Let's hope it is. Rover recently reported a loss of 119 million. It came on the back of a 148 million loss in 1995. It should be noted at this point that those are the Germans' figures: 1995's figure equates to a 93 million profit in our way of doing things, but you'll have to make your own conclusions about the 1996 figure - BMW isn't saying, but it does not expect Rover to turn a profit in its own terms until the year 2000. By then BMW will have invested close to 2 billion and six years of the finest engineering, marketing and managerial therapy the car business has to offer. If the world doesn't want British cars by 2000, then it probably never will. In reality, the chairman and chief executive of Rover Group (Rover, Land Rover, MG and Mini) has three jobs to do between now and 2000: supervise and structure BMW's massive investment; improve productivity; and, finally, deliver some world-class cars. Can Hasselkus deliver? If you'd scanned his resum blind you quite possibly would have overlooked him for the job of running a manufacturing operation producing 500,000 cars a year. Starting in planning, he moved to regional sales, then national sales and lately took charge of BMW's motorcycle division, producing a relatively small number of highly desirable bikes. Talk to him about the complexities of the UK versus German accounting systems and he'll confess a little confusion and refer you to Rover's finance director. Talk to him about what seems like an extremely nifty strategy to keep the Mini in the spotlight until it's replaced and he'll joke: "Not everything we do follows a deep-rooted strategy. We tend to do it first then declare afterwards that there is a deep-rooted strategy!" In person he's surprisingly imposing: tall, slim, but well-built. He has a taste for contrasting cuffs and collars - less in the razor-sharp style of the dashing, blond, former Rover chairman Wolfgang Reitzle (the "assassin" in the BBC's When Rover met BMW), more the soft style pioneered in the UK by Sir David Steel. His manner is avuncular, friendly and, yes, funny. His English is extremely good, although his frequent use of "somehow" and "somewhat", as in "In the '70s and '60s so much of the British character was, somehow, lost at Rover", or "In the '90s Rover somewhat appeared again on the map," give the game away. Somewhat. Hasselkus is now fighting battles on two fronts: at Longbridge and in the media. His predecessor, John Towers (the "victim" in When Rover met BMW) tamed the Longbridge workforce in 1991 with a "New Deal" on lifetime job security in return for flexibility. Hasselkus wants to stretch the meaning of that flexibility to include a successful BMW scheme whereby workers can "bank" a maximum of 200 hours overtime over a period of two years. The negotiations are being carried out against a background of scare stories that have BMW closing Rover (but keeping the more profitable Land Rover, MG and Mini divisions), selling Rover to Chrysler or selling Rover to an ex-management buyout led by Towers. "It's utter nonsense. Who on earth could seriously imagine the banks funding an ex-senior executive to buy back just Rover cars? I could understand it better if it was Land Rover as well; theoretically and intellectually that is somehow thinkable," says Hasselkus. "But just Rover cars is unthinkable. I'm absolutely speechless that anyone could write such a thing. The British press seems determined to make sure Rover's future is as shaky as its past. "The Chrysler story has a little more logic to it, but only in the journalist's mind. And as far as BMW's commitment to Rover, anyone who knows anything about the car industry knows that you don't invest in things like paint shops unless you are 100 per cent committed." None the less, Hasselkus admits that, for a new chief executive attempting to build credibility, the rumours don't help. His style, although friendly and apparently open, is very different from that of Towers, an engineer whose route to the top was by way of manufacturing. Hasselkus does not wear the grey overalls of Towers, and the chief executive's parking space has returned. "Walter's view on the role of a chief executive," says one colleague, "is to work longer hours than anyone else". Unconnected with the main negotiations, there have been small signs of unease in the workforce, particularly at Longbridge, where there have now been three short, half-day unofficial strikes since last November, the first for eight years. Hasselkus remains optimistic. "What impresses me is the tone of negotiations between management and shop stewards. It's tough when it comes to the year-end deal of course - you're always close to disaster then. But generally speaking it is absolutely remarkable, particularly when you think where the industry came from. "The name Longbridge was once synonymous with disastrous industrial relations but that has changed dramatically. The 'New Deal' has so far worked very well. It hasn't hampered us in terms of getting to the levels of efficiency we want to see." BMW's workforce in the UK costs half the money its workforce in Germany does and productivity is good (turnover last year increased 14 per cent on unit sales up only five per cent). "But," says Hasselkus without any hint of a threat, "there is room for improvement." Hasselkus says he does not use the media as a tool in negotiations, but has none the less delayed an announcement on where the new Mini, due around the turn of the century, will be built. Insiders say that Longbridge is the preferred site, but that no final decision will be made until a new "New Deal" is signed. And to spice the process up a bit, Rover has already announced that the Mini's engines will be built in South America. The new Mini will not be the first BMW Rover. We will see that at the end of next year, a medium-sized car to replace both the 800 and the 600. Code named R40, it will be built at Cowley in Oxford. Hasselkus says that with the R40 he wants to return Rover's centre of gravity to where it was in the '50s and '60s, when it was the chosen car of lawyers and doctors: "Elegant, up-market with a very distinctive design. Without the badges people must be able to see this car and say, 'That's a Rover and that's British'," he says. "That's what people want from a British car." Few doubt he's wrong. What's remarkable is that it's taken a German to realise it. Hasselkus might not have the shop-floor appeal of his predecessor, but he does have the perspective and BMW does have the money. Without that, the world could end up waiting forever for British cars. 26 March 1997: BMW's 600m fuel for Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:42:53 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Sill Trim So, I've heard rumors that the sill trim was delivered to your house. Was it? C ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:00:53 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Sill Trim [ Original post was HTML ] <HTML><BODY> Christopher H. Dow wrote: <BR>New ! Improved ! <A HREF="http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/">http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/</A> <BR> [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] <BR>C </BLOCKQUOTE> sill trim? not at my house - sorry! <BR> <BR>-- [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] <BR>--------------------------------------------------- <BR>CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) <BR>Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark <BR>--------------------------------------------------- [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] <BR>HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com <BR>--------------------------------------------------- <BR> </BODY> </HTML> ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:05:01 +0200 From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Winch / PTO / Overdrive James Curtis wrote: > I am looking for the immaginative "weld it yourself" option rather than a > list of suppliers of parts to do the job "bolt on and go" fashion. [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] > Thanks in advance... > James Curtis (Newcastle U.K.) As you have a foothold in the shipworld, why not go hydraulic? I often come across sailing yachts with all sorts of hydraylic winches, reefing devices etc. Maybe you can convert an anchor winch? I'm thinking in this direction for my own Landrover, but only when I have an engine that doesn't use one headgasket every 1000 km! A friend of mine is restoring a SI, and he's looking for a a PTO winch. So if you decide to sell,...... Keep me updated on the progress, Floris Houniet Ser IIa 1969 Houniet@xs4all.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:22:10 +0100 From: "Christian Lester." <clester@ibm.net> Subject: Mystery vibration. Dear all, My 1966 '88 diesel has recently developed a mystery vibration. It begins at approx. 20 mph increases & then disappears at approx. 30 mph. Otherwise all seems well, with no obvious ill effect. Has anyone any ideas as to what the possible cause is ? Many thanks, Christian. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 17:44:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Sill Trim In a message dated 97-04-15 17:22:27 EDT, you write: << So, I've heard rumors that the sill trim was delivered to your house. Was it? >> A vicious rumor, I assure you ; ). Last time I checked, the trim was in Cach, IL (wherever THAT is). I called OOPS yesterday about it and they said that if it wasn't delivered by Thursday, call back. To be fair, they have been very cooperative about all this, still, I wonder if it's any way to run a railroad... BTW, did you get your halfshafts changed? Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 18:00:42 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: New LR Centre A new LR centre is opening in the DC metro area, and ROAV has been asked to send a few Series vehicles to liven up the proceedings. The grand opening for Land Rover Alexandria will be on Saturday, and most likely, there will be food/drink, though I don't know the particulars yet. So if you are in the area, you might want to drop by. The site is on Duke St., just west of old town. E-mail me direct if you want phone numbers or an address. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Hella Headlights Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:49:00 +1000 Have you tried: Hella Inc 201 Kelly Drive Peachtree City GA 3029 tel 800 247-5924 fax 800 631-7575 I saw their address in a TJM (Aussie product) advert in Four Wheeler. Best Regards, Ron Beckett Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews" Emu Plains, Australia '87 Range Rover 4.8L auto '67 Hillman Gazelle '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - for pictures see http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:13:06 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Bushed Clayton Kirkwood is having trouble with his spring/frame bushings. How unusual. ;-) Use the hacksaw, but as this will naturally cut a little deeper at either end than in the middle, I take a small 1/4" cold chisel and peel up the edges as I go. After you've peeled up a bit of the shell and collapsed ti towards the center, you can usually get a good grip on it with needle-nosed vise (mole) gips and twist it out. As to refitting the bushings, I've made a special tool. Buy an inexpensive 1/2" drive socket the same size as the outer shell. Weld a .401" pointed Parker shank tool into the middle. (This keeps your new "special tool" centered in the inner diameter.) Fire up the compressor and the air hammer, lube the bushing and hole and you can refit the bush in *under two seconds*. Occasionally, I have removed bushings with this tool, but most of the time they have to be dynamited out. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:13:09 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Hella Headlights Pat wrote: >Does anyone know of a source for Genuine Hella H-4 Headlamps in the US? >I am looking for the standard 7 inch diameter.... J.C. Whitless sells the 7" Hella 'Vision Plus' bulbs. RN and EuroParts have them as well. I titted them in the 88" to replace the *original* Lucas lamps which only served to warn oncoming traffic that a vehicle was actually on the road. I was amazed at what I could see.... *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:09:57 +0000 From: "Matthew J. Clement" <matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk> Subject: UK-Style License Plates For Sale As I have been overwhelmed with requests for UK Number Plates, I figured I would make a quick public posting so that anyone who is interested can get back to me about getting plates. I've spoken with a local motor factor in town and am able to provide anyone who wishes with UK-style license plates. The price, inclusive of tax and shipping to any US destination, will be $28/single plate, $45/front and rear. You can choose between new style plates: Front: White plates with black letters Rear: Yellow plates with black letters Or old style plates: Front: Black plates with silver letters Rear: Black plates with silver letters To be technically correct, old-style plates can only be fitted to pre-1973 vehicles, but I think that they look much nicer than the new plates. Additionally, plates can be either long rectangular (all letters on one line) or square (two lines). All plates are pressed aluminium, and are shipped in bubble-wrap. I will also include a GB-oval sticker and "Drive on the left" arrow with any order. If you are interested in adding a bit of character to your Land Rover, please e-mail me with your desired lettering and format. I am able to accept personal cheques payable to: MATTHEW J CLEMENT SOUTH FALFIELD FARM COTTAGE BY LEVEN, FIFE KY8 5PJ SCOTLAND I am not making a profit out of this (well, only enough for a pint of beer!) and am merely providing a service to other enthusiasts. Drop me a line if you have any questions. -- Matthew Clement matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: UK-Style License Plates For Sale Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:21:30 -0500 What numbers and or letters are on the plates? Can these be choosen? ---------- > From: Matthew J. Clement <matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk> > To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com [ truncated by list-digester (was 54 lines)] > -- Matthew Clement > matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BigAlSk8r@aol.com Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:01:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Help!!!!! 2 1/4 petrol engine What do you do with a motor that needs an over-haul because of worn/damaged cylinders but has allready had .060'' over pistons installed? Any one have a reasonable {ie. inexpensive} solution? any used motors {2a/3} available? Please let me know, Thanks, Allan BigAlSk8r@aol.com 73' S111 88'' - ''Belle'' 66'S11 109'' - ''Matilda'' ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:10:31 -0800 From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com> Subject: Electrical shorts Having owned my 1973 Series III since new, it's always interesting to discover a new problem and the solution, so I thought I'd pass on something I learned over the weekend. I'm well aware of the reputation of British automotive electrics, but I've actually never had a single electrical problem with my Series III in 24 years until a couple of months ago. I turned on the windshield wipers and nothing happened. A quick check showed that the fuse under the steering column had blown. Installing a new fuse solved the problem, but a day or so later I discovered that the fuse had blown again. This fuse carries three circuits: the wipers, the brake lights, and the backup lights. The seemingly random blowing of the fuse went on for a couple of weeks. I changed the brake light bulbs and the backup light bulbs just to be sure they weren't the cause. They weren't. FInally, as I was backing the vehicle out of the garage one night with the headlights on, I noticed that the lights dimmed for a moment when I selected reverse. A quick check of the wiper switch showed that the fuse had blown again. So now I had the problem narrowed down to the reverse lamp circuit. For the next couple of weeks I pulled the fuse whenever I had to back up, which saved the fuse but was an annoying thing to have to remember to do. Finally this weekend, I got around to removing the floorboards and troubleshooting the problem. I assumed I would find a faulty reverse lamp switch on the transmission, but a quick check with a continuity meter showed the switch to be fine. As I wiped the dirt and oil off the wiring running to and from the switch I discovered the problem. Twenty-four years of heat and dirt had hardened the sleeve around the wire that runs from the switch to the wiring harness that enters the frame to go to the rear of the vehicle. This loop of wire had become pinned against the bell housing. A section of the petrified sleeve had split open and allowed the wire inside (it's the green and brown one if you're interested) to rub against the transmission until the insulation wore off. The result was a dead short almost every time I selected reverse. The fuse would blow, and I'd lose the wipers and brake lights. The fix was easy: a new piece of insulation and some wire ties to keep the reverse lamp wire from getting pinned against the bell housing. So if you ever have fuses blowing for mysterious causes, don't forget the obvious check of the exposed wiring under the vehicle to make sure it isn't touching something where vibration can wear off the insulation and cause a continuous or intermittent short. Your problem could be as simple to solve as mine was. _________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:20:24 -0400 From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca> Subject: Re: Help!!!!! 2 1/4 petrol engine At 01:01 97-04-16 -0400, you wrote: - >What do you do with a motor that needs an over-haul because of worn/damaged >cylinders but has allready had .060'' over pistons installed? Any one have a -reasonable {ie. inexpensive} solution? any used motors {2a/3} available? >Please let me know, Thanks, Allan BigAlSk8r@aol.com 73' S111 88'' - >''Belle'' 66'S11 109'' - ''Matilda'' - >Please let me know, Thanks, Allan BigAlSk8r@aol.com 73' S111 88'' - - You can put new sleeves in the engine. Call Charlie at RN. Michel Bertrand ______ Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, / __ / \ 1963 109 PU (Rudolph) | Lucas | 1968 109 SW (in the works) | Inside | 1973 88 SW (21st century project) \ / \______/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Tips...yesterday's & today's Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:39:38 +0200 (MET DST) | > Oh come on, you own a Land Rover, and you're worried about a little | > gasoline/diesel smell? 8^) | I like to think of it as Chanel No. (87, 89 or 93 depending) for men Think it depends more on the wheelbase. Perhaps with an added p or d..... Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:25:49 +0000 Subject: Re: Mystery vibration. > My 1966 '88 diesel has recently developed a mystery vibration. It begins > at approx. 20 mph increases & then disappears at approx. 30 mph. > Otherwise all seems well, with no obvious ill effect. Has anyone any > ideas as to what the possible cause is ? The first thing I would look at would be all four U-joints to see if they're sloppy and worn, and then look at the driveshafts to make sure they're kosher as well. Cheers Reggie O ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 06:29:23 -0400 Subject: Re: Mystery vibration. Re: Mystery vibration: Check your universal joints - odds are one of them's gone bad. Honestly, at $9.95 each at an auto-parts shop, just change all 4 - you'll sleep better. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970416 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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