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msgSender linesSubject
1 G2RSA@aol.com 7unsubscribe
2 Dean Cording [dean@holly27Re: Slick 50 and more...
3 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo12Re: Canvas Top
4 Nick Fankhauser [nickf@c48Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help)
5 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 27Fwd: Military Trailers
6 Mike Gaines [106220.123426Prince of Darkness Strikes
7 Sanna@aol.com 16Re: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help)
8 "David Cockey" [dcockey@30Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes
9 thomasr@wheat.mnsfld.edu7(no subject)
10 Jeff Goldman [roverboy@g23Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)...
11 Jeff Goldman [roverboy@g21LPG conversions...
12 "David M. Schwarz" [dsch9Ringwood off-road event sponsored by Zumbach, Sat, 12 Apr 1997
13 "JAMES PAPPAS" [roverhea22April Storm
14 alan boyer [aboyer@inter23Re: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)...
15 Franz Parzefall [franz@m27Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes
16 [mr@grant.media-gn.nl> 25[not specified]
17 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u30And enlightening tip of the day...
18 [mr@grant.media-gn.nl> 36[not specified]
19 Olafur Agust Axelsson [o27Re: 5 Years, No Move
20 Floris Houniet [houniet@26Re: The one that was taken away ;-(
21 "Quique Salavert" [ensaf25Buying a 2.5 D 109
22 "Quique Salavert" [ensaf25[not specified]
23 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u30Re: Buying a 2.5 D 109


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From: G2RSA@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 08:37:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe g2rsa@aol.com

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 23:15:46 +1000 (EST)
From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au>
Subject: Re: Slick 50 and more...

On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, C. Marin Faure wrote:

> Back in the early 1980s we had a film editor in our unit who was a sucker
> for every something-for-nothing scam that came along.  He bought a set of
> the magnets that you're supposed to tape to either side of your fuel line
> to "polarize" the gas molecules.

> This was in the days before locking gas caps or covers were in vogue, so we
> started adding a gallon or two of fuel to his car each day while he was
          ^^^^^^ 
> inside working.
> This went on for about four weeks, and then we stopped adding the gas. 

So, just who was the sucker in this story???  Now, if his mileage had
suddenly dropped after fitting the magnets......

Dean
=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect..com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:16:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Canvas Top

I'll take it - no problem. My mother-in-law's a seamstress - it will fit a
109 in very short order....8*)

Where do you want me to send the check, and how much?

               Al Richer

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:48:28 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help)

I think we're close. From the replies, it sounds like your condensor is
definitely toast. Your description of how you are testing it sounds correct,
but I would double check the meter to make sure you're reading it right
(just because going all the way to 0 ohms would be a more spectacular
failure than I've ever seen before- usually, it conducts, but not perfectly.)

If you're sure that the condensor is conducting, replace it first, before
worrying about other stuff. This alone can cause your problem, because the
effect is that the condensor short-circuits your points. Also the condensor
is cheap, the coil is expensive.

The bit about the points working when the engine is turned over slowly, but
the meter showing 12.38v constantly when cranking it could be the meter's
problem. Since you're giving us readings in hundredths of a volt, I presume
the meter is digital. Digital meters have an electronic "damping system"
built into them because without the damping, minor fluctuations would make
the digits flicker so much that they couldn't be read. In this case,
primitive is better, because the flicker is what you're looking for, and the
meter is hiding it from you. Try either using a light bulb, or use a hand
crank to turn the engine over *slowly*. (I highly reccomend buying a test
light- they're only about $5, and for a system that is either on or off,
they're the best tool.)

The explanantion of the last part will probably make more sense if you know
what the reasoning behind it is- We're trying to check the coil, so we are
taking everything else out of the system- by running an HT wire directly to
a spark plug that is clamped to the side of the engine, we eliminate the cap
& rotor. On the other end, you are powering the positive side of the coil
(we know the positive supply is OK because of the meter reading), and then
eliminating the points & condensor by having you simulate them with a piece
of wire...

When the points/condensor are functioning correctly, they supply a timed,
intermittent *ground* to the negative side of your coil, so by disconnecting
the wire from the distributor to the coil, and then replacing it with a wire
to the coil which you touch to the engine case intermittently by hand,
you're simulating correctly functioning (but poorly timed!) points. If you
can't get a spark this way, the coil is toast as well.

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 13:09:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Military Trailers

As promised I've found the latest ad from a company in Canton, Ohio selling
1/4 T military trailers (M416) for $329. The ad says he's got nine left.
Contact: Adelmans, 3140 Mahoning Road, Canton, Ohio (330) 452-9320
The ad also lists lots of used engines (ex. GM 6.5-T, complete with turbo,
fuel pump but less electrics, $3,850, Cummins 4BT $2500). I dont know this
guy, never been there, so buyer beware.
If someone is really interested I might inquire further for you, send me an
email. Birmabright Brotherhood members get *special* consideration.
This probably wont be much use to you all south of the Ohio River, but might
be of interest to those along the I-80/I-70 corridor.Cheers. Andy Blackley
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: Military Trailers
Date:    97-04-09 08:36:31 EDT
From:    AKBLACKLEY
CC:      Solihull

I will post the address and phone number for the guy in Akron as soon as I
can.  I see that Erik van Dyck posted the Tennessee trailer sales number
yesterday. Cheers. Andy Blackley

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:09:02 -0400
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: Prince of Darkness Strikes

Hi All,
I've got an old air horn from my dead Lancia and decided to replace the
standard Lucas PoD horn on my Slll; although the standard horn works it is
particularly tinny and sounds more like a hamster farting than a warning
device.
  The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are
touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing horn
wires, the air compressor runs but  not enough to power the air horn. To
rule out bad earth probs i tried it with air compressor earth lead direct
to battery earth and other treminal to orig horn lead-same result
compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so
am I. Any ideas?
 Saw a nice  spinach & sand camoed 101 towing a Nato trailer up a hill
today, 5mins later a rare looking camper in lime green and bright yellow.
The requesit waves and light flashes were swopped but they weren't up on
CB. We need a hand signal that says "I'm going to the pub, wanna follow?"
Cheers
Mike Gaines
Slll Lightweight 'Wicked Wanda'
PS Re Bill's Tip of the Day, when we need to protect our nuts and parts in
UK we wear a Jock/Box 8^).

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:27:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help)

Hey Nick...  Thanks.  I really appreciate your help with my son.  Tony

PS:  I'm in the chocolate biz, you know.  Send me your address and I'll 
send you some sweets.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

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From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:43:20 -0400

>   The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are
> touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing
horn
> wires, the air compressor runs but  not enough to power the air horn. To
> rule out bad earth probs i tried it with air compressor earth lead direct
> to battery earth and other treminal to orig horn lead-same result
> compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so
> am I. Any ideas?

The wire in the horn circut was sized for the original horn, not an air
horn. The compressor can't get enough power to move enough air to sound the
horn due to the voltage drop in the horn circut. Two potential fixes:

1) Rewire the horn entire horn circut with heavier gauge wire and hope the
horn button contacts/fuse/etc. are up to the higher current. Also, the fuse
may start blowing, and it shouldn't be replaced with a larger fuse unless 

2) Install a relay wired through a fuse and then directly to the battery
with suitable wire. Use the exisiting horn circut to control the relay. A
relay for high power headlights/fog lights/driving lights etc.should be
suitable. This is the recommended solution.

Regards,
David Cockey 

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From: thomasr@wheat.mnsfld.edu
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:50:34 -0700
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe LRO

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:36:13 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)...

	Anyone have or know about a US spec Range Rover (preferably post '89,
preferably in the Northeast US) which would make a suitable donour car for
a Series 100" hybrid coil-over? Maybe a salvaged roll-over or interior fire
damaged vehicle. Something with a good chassis, engine, drivetrain, and
running gear (I don't care about the body or interior, obviously). Or, a US
spec D90 in similar condition. Thought I'd query the list in my searches...
Thanks...

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

 Fusion Films, Inc.
  **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing**
    http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:36:11 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: LPG conversions...

	This may not apply very well to this list (as opposed to the coil list),
but can someone give me the run-down on LPG conversions? What exactly is
it? What are the benefits/drawbacks/abilities? How does it apply to the
Landy engines (the 2.25L petrol, 3.5L or 3.9L)? How available is the stuff
in Southern California? Thanks...

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

 Fusion Films, Inc.
  **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing**
    http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:15:42 -0400
From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
Subject: Ringwood off-road event sponsored by Zumbach, Sat, 12 Apr 1997

Did anyone on the list go to the off-road event sponsored by Zumbach this
past Saturday, 12 April 1997?  If so, how was it?  Who knows where one
might drive off the road in New Jersey or Southeastern New York aside from
the New Jersey Pine Barrens?  Thanks, David

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Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 02:06:56 UT
From: "JAMES PAPPAS" <roverhead@msn.com>
Subject: April Storm

Hi all:

I'm interested in hearing any short stories on what you might have done in 
your Land Rovers during the recent blizzard on April Fool's Day in the Boston 
area!

I am putting together an article for the upcoming ROVER REFERENCE newsletter 
and would solicit your experiences!!!

You don't have to be a member of the BSROA - just email me a contribution with 
your name or you can fax it to: 617-544-1250!

Publication in about two weeks - so please get `em in!

Thanks,
Jim Pappas
Chairman, BSROA

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Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 20:40:41 -0600
From: alan boyer <aboyer@intermountain.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)...

HI Jeff,

I have access to many RR Chassis, Mostly Rolled Ones, Prices Range 5000 -
8000 US,
I know of one I could probaly get out of Missouri, that is complete. This
deals are
money up front. I only deal with serious cash buyers.

Alan,

rovertech@usa.net

At 06:36 PM 4/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>  **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing**
>    http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:17:33 +0200 (MET DST)

Mike writes:

|   The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are
| touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing horn
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
| compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so
| am I. Any ideas?
May be a to tiny wiring as someone alredy mentioned, or bad contacts somewhere
along the wire. Take a voltmeter and check the voltage between the horn (+)
and ground while operating it. If you don't get at least 11V check along
the wiring until you find the point were the voltage is up again.

Hope this helps,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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Subject: Re: Another tip of the day
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 09:47:28 +0100
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>Land Rovers! there is always something....
>--
>Adrian Redmond

But they'll work again after some fine touches under the hood.

Marc Rengers
mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland
http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover

 #=====#                #=========#         also subscribed to 
 |___|__\___            |____|__|__\___     LAND ROVER Owner International
 | _ |   |_ |}          |  _ |  |   |_ |}   (great magazine)
 "(_)""""(_)"           ""(_)"""""""(_)"
    SOLD !!!
 1977 "88" III 2.25    1987 "110"  2.5
 petrol    23-67-XB    diesel RH-12-PF
   
Have: tools, knowledge, couch, no      Pager: (+31) 06-59111461
      money left for food              Tel:   (+31) 0596-551334

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: And enlightening tip of the day...
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 8:57:35 BST

When fitting the battery "frames" can leads on an FFR (both seated between
the front seats where the middle seat/cubby box should be), take extreme care
if using metal tools, the ground is connected, you have a hole in your jeans
(just above one of the rear pockets in this case), and there are scratches
in the paintwork on the seatbox...

At least it was only 12v in this case, but it took a while to suss the funny
spikey feeling...           :-)

The truck moved yesterday evening!!!!
Still not roadworthy, but the main 'box works 1-4,R with low engaged; and I've
tried High 1&R. The handbrake works (novelty!) and the clutch after being
bled is nice and jumpy!
Interestingly there still seems to be the tendancy not to engage Hi properly,
and an extra shove is required on the lever. I thought I'd found this one
(the spring clip in the ball on the hi-lo lever was missing, and a number
of the levers/etc, detents,etc have been replaced).

Now to sort the blowing exhaust (had to be taken out to get the the g'box
mount), and bolt everything down - including adding the seatbelts.

Cheers for all the help,

Richard

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Subject: WANTED:  Hardtopboxy-thing and sidepanels
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 09:59:06 +0100
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Hello Rovers!

I'm going to convert my 110 StaWag to a Hardtop, because the taxes in 
Holland are forcing me to (well, at least I will save a lot of money the 
next years).

So if someone in Holland has or knows the boxy box and the side-panels to 
convert a StaWag into a Hardtop...... please let me know!

I'm going to drop another engine in it too, hoping to spent less money on 
fuel. The old 2.5D will be replaced by a 300 TDi, wich has run only 30000 
km. And the donor car is a 110 Hardtop, but it had a crash and guess what 
I can't use...... the body. Everything else is fine, chassis, engine, 
axels and so on.

Happy Rovering-converting

Marc Rengers
mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland
http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover

 #=====#                #=========#         also subscribed to 
 |___|__\___            |____|__|__\___     LAND ROVER Owner International
 | _ |   |_ |}          |  _ |  |   |_ |}   (great magazine)
 "(_)""""(_)"           ""(_)"""""""(_)"
    SOLD !!!
 1977 "88" III 2.25    1987 "110"  2.5
 petrol    23-67-XB    diesel RH-12-PF
   
Have: tools, knowledge, couch, no      Pager: (+31) 06-59111461
      money left for food              Tel:   (+31) 0596-551334

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Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:12:27 +0000
From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Re: 5 Years, No Move

>Check fluids. Put super gas in tank. Install good battery. Try to turn
>engine with crank to see if not seized. Hand Prime fuel pump. Turn the key
>and the babe should start. I have seen this miracle happen. 

Its not a miracle! - My LR  stood for ten years - never moved in that time -
and I got it running in two days!  The engine had seized but I could losen
it with the hand crank, also had the clutch got stuck to the flywheel but it
was no problem to get it loose. Amazingly all the fluids were still in place
- except brake fluid which had leaked out of rusty pipes! So starting the LR
after five years should be a easy task  

Bye
        Olafur Agust (olafura@rhi.hi.is)

66 S2a 
					
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"It´s nice to be important!! - but it´s more important to be nice!!"
					DJ. Scooter

Ólafur Ágúst Axelsson                 http://www.hi.is/~olafura
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:13:51 +0200
From: Floris Houniet <houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: The one that was taken away ;-(

At 02:27 05/04/97 +0100, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Hi,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>;-) , they're asking 9000 dfl (+/- 4500$us) for it!!!!!!!! This 109 is 
>perfect in every way! I could've cried! 

Yea, and I wept when I was at the original sale, without about dfl 5000,-
that they were selling for. :-( The lot was filled with about 200 of these
landrovers, softtops special metal fexible tube from the exhast to ease
wading all diesel engines etc. etc....
Two months after that came the Dutch Army parts sale, recon engines, new
gearboxes, salisbury axles, EVERTHING.... but still no money..... sniff.

One word of warning, if you do buy one, get the frame protected FIRST!
They are all Ser III, still in the original 1 micron thick black shoe
polish and this is by far the weakest part of this Landrover. 

Va bene,

Floris Houniet. Ser IIa 1969 (Boerke)

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From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es>
Subject: Buying a 2.5 D 109
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:23:49 +0200

Hello,
I'm subscribed to this list since 2 months ago, and now I can afford a Land
Rover (it must be cheap, really cheap)
Since I live in Spain, I will get a Santana one, diesel, of course.
how to know if a Land is well, or wich pieces are hard to repair, how to
see how many oil it leaks or burns.
I know a little about mechanics, but not enough to know if a car is well
paid.
I've been seeing a pair of 109 Santana with about 15 - 20 years but I'm not
sure, because I want it as a daily driver.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English
_______________________________
Quique Salavert Ferrer
Cullera, Valencia, España
ensafer@arrakis.es

"No hay razones, solo sensaciones"
_______________________________

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From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:37:30 +0200

Hello, 
I'm subscribed to this list since some months ago, and now I can afford a
Land Rover (I'm a student)
Since I live in Spain I must buy a Land Rover Santana 2.5 Diesel, and I
prefer a 109.
What I want is any idea to recognize cars that have been well treated along
its life, any problems, things possible to need a repair soon...
Checking my money, I only can afford a 15 - 20 years old one, and I
couldn't spend more money repairing it.
How to know how many oil it leaks or burns?

Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English.

_______________________________
Quique Salavert Ferrer
Cullera, Valencia, España
ensafer@arrakis.es

"No hay razones, solo sensaciones"
_______________________________

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Buying a 2.5 D 109
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 10:43:47 BST

> Hello,
> I'm subscribed to this list since 2 months ago, and now I can afford a Land
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> how to know if a Land is well, or wich pieces are hard to repair, how to
> see how many oil it leaks or burns.

Don't know much about Santanas, but if they're like any other Landy:

- they all leak oil. Mine burns oil too
  I put my newly-rebuilt gearbox in over the weekend, I see I have a few more
drops on the driveway...

- Difficult bits to get at: chassis and bulkhead.
  Attack both of these vigorously with a big screwdriver checking for rust,etc.

Series Land Rovers are generally built for maintenance, everything is easy
to get at - plenty of open space in the engine compartment, and "simple".
(I put the gearbox in single-handedly without lifts or anything)

> Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English

Better than my Spanish!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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