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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | G2RSA@aol.com | 7 | unsubscribe |
2 | Dean Cording [dean@holly | 27 | Re: Slick 50 and more... |
3 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 12 | Re: Canvas Top |
4 | Nick Fankhauser [nickf@c | 48 | Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help) |
5 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 27 | Fwd: Military Trailers |
6 | Mike Gaines [106220.1234 | 26 | Prince of Darkness Strikes |
7 | Sanna@aol.com | 16 | Re: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help) |
8 | "David Cockey" [dcockey@ | 30 | Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes |
9 | thomasr@wheat.mnsfld.edu | 7 | (no subject) |
10 | Jeff Goldman [roverboy@g | 23 | Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)... |
11 | Jeff Goldman [roverboy@g | 21 | LPG conversions... |
12 | "David M. Schwarz" [dsch | 9 | Ringwood off-road event sponsored by Zumbach, Sat, 12 Apr 1997 |
13 | "JAMES PAPPAS" [roverhea | 22 | April Storm |
14 | alan boyer [aboyer@inter | 23 | Re: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)... |
15 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 27 | Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes |
16 | [mr@grant.media-gn.nl> | 25 | [not specified] |
17 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 30 | And enlightening tip of the day... |
18 | [mr@grant.media-gn.nl> | 36 | [not specified] |
19 | Olafur Agust Axelsson [o | 27 | Re: 5 Years, No Move |
20 | Floris Houniet [houniet@ | 26 | Re: The one that was taken away ;-( |
21 | "Quique Salavert" [ensaf | 25 | Buying a 2.5 D 109 |
22 | "Quique Salavert" [ensaf | 25 | [not specified] |
23 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 30 | Re: Buying a 2.5 D 109 |
From: G2RSA@aol.com Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 08:37:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: unsubscribe unsubscribe g2rsa@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 23:15:46 +1000 (EST) From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au> Subject: Re: Slick 50 and more... On Sat, 12 Apr 1997, C. Marin Faure wrote: > Back in the early 1980s we had a film editor in our unit who was a sucker > for every something-for-nothing scam that came along. He bought a set of > the magnets that you're supposed to tape to either side of your fuel line > to "polarize" the gas molecules. > This was in the days before locking gas caps or covers were in vogue, so we > started adding a gallon or two of fuel to his car each day while he was ^^^^^^ > inside working. > This went on for about four weeks, and then we stopped adding the gas. So, just who was the sucker in this story??? Now, if his mileage had suddenly dropped after fitting the magnets...... Dean ============================================================================= Dean Cording ASPECT Computing P/L 86 Northbourne Ave Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au (Work) Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA Dean@holly.aspect..com.au (Private) ACN. 005 083 670 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:16:53 -0400 Subject: Re: Canvas Top I'll take it - no problem. My mother-in-law's a seamstress - it will fit a 109 in very short order....8*) Where do you want me to send the check, and how much? Al Richer ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 09:48:28 -0500 From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us> Subject: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help) I think we're close. From the replies, it sounds like your condensor is definitely toast. Your description of how you are testing it sounds correct, but I would double check the meter to make sure you're reading it right (just because going all the way to 0 ohms would be a more spectacular failure than I've ever seen before- usually, it conducts, but not perfectly.) If you're sure that the condensor is conducting, replace it first, before worrying about other stuff. This alone can cause your problem, because the effect is that the condensor short-circuits your points. Also the condensor is cheap, the coil is expensive. The bit about the points working when the engine is turned over slowly, but the meter showing 12.38v constantly when cranking it could be the meter's problem. Since you're giving us readings in hundredths of a volt, I presume the meter is digital. Digital meters have an electronic "damping system" built into them because without the damping, minor fluctuations would make the digits flicker so much that they couldn't be read. In this case, primitive is better, because the flicker is what you're looking for, and the meter is hiding it from you. Try either using a light bulb, or use a hand crank to turn the engine over *slowly*. (I highly reccomend buying a test light- they're only about $5, and for a system that is either on or off, they're the best tool.) The explanantion of the last part will probably make more sense if you know what the reasoning behind it is- We're trying to check the coil, so we are taking everything else out of the system- by running an HT wire directly to a spark plug that is clamped to the side of the engine, we eliminate the cap & rotor. On the other end, you are powering the positive side of the coil (we know the positive supply is OK because of the meter reading), and then eliminating the points & condensor by having you simulate them with a piece of wire... When the points/condensor are functioning correctly, they supply a timed, intermittent *ground* to the negative side of your coil, so by disconnecting the wire from the distributor to the coil, and then replacing it with a wire to the coil which you touch to the engine case intermittently by hand, you're simulating correctly functioning (but poorly timed!) points. If you can't get a spark this way, the coil is toast as well. -NickF Nick Fankhauser | Wayne County Information Systems Department NickF@co.wayne.in.us | http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 13:09:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fwd: Military Trailers As promised I've found the latest ad from a company in Canton, Ohio selling 1/4 T military trailers (M416) for $329. The ad says he's got nine left. Contact: Adelmans, 3140 Mahoning Road, Canton, Ohio (330) 452-9320 The ad also lists lots of used engines (ex. GM 6.5-T, complete with turbo, fuel pump but less electrics, $3,850, Cummins 4BT $2500). I dont know this guy, never been there, so buyer beware. If someone is really interested I might inquire further for you, send me an email. Birmabright Brotherhood members get *special* consideration. This probably wont be much use to you all south of the Ohio River, but might be of interest to those along the I-80/I-70 corridor.Cheers. Andy Blackley --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: Re: Military Trailers Date: 97-04-09 08:36:31 EDT From: AKBLACKLEY CC: Solihull I will post the address and phone number for the guy in Akron as soon as I can. I see that Erik van Dyck posted the Tennessee trailer sales number yesterday. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:09:02 -0400 From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com> Subject: Prince of Darkness Strikes Hi All, I've got an old air horn from my dead Lancia and decided to replace the standard Lucas PoD horn on my Slll; although the standard horn works it is particularly tinny and sounds more like a hamster farting than a warning device. The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing horn wires, the air compressor runs but not enough to power the air horn. To rule out bad earth probs i tried it with air compressor earth lead direct to battery earth and other treminal to orig horn lead-same result compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so am I. Any ideas? Saw a nice spinach & sand camoed 101 towing a Nato trailer up a hill today, 5mins later a rare looking camper in lime green and bright yellow. The requesit waves and light flashes were swopped but they weren't up on CB. We need a hand signal that says "I'm going to the pub, wanna follow?" Cheers Mike Gaines Slll Lightweight 'Wicked Wanda' PS Re Bill's Tip of the Day, when we need to protect our nuts and parts in UK we wear a Jock/Box 8^). ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:27:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Long distance rover diagnosis (was pleez help) Hey Nick... Thanks. I really appreciate your help with my son. Tony PS: I'm in the chocolate biz, you know. Send me your address and I'll send you some sweets. Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Ave. Middleton, WI 53562 1-800-373-7226 ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 15:43:20 -0400 > The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are > touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing horn > wires, the air compressor runs but not enough to power the air horn. To > rule out bad earth probs i tried it with air compressor earth lead direct > to battery earth and other treminal to orig horn lead-same result > compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so > am I. Any ideas? The wire in the horn circut was sized for the original horn, not an air horn. The compressor can't get enough power to move enough air to sound the horn due to the voltage drop in the horn circut. Two potential fixes: 1) Rewire the horn entire horn circut with heavier gauge wire and hope the horn button contacts/fuse/etc. are up to the higher current. Also, the fuse may start blowing, and it shouldn't be replaced with a larger fuse unless 2) Install a relay wired through a fuse and then directly to the battery with suitable wire. Use the exisiting horn circut to control the relay. A relay for high power headlights/fog lights/driving lights etc.should be suitable. This is the recommended solution. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: thomasr@wheat.mnsfld.edu Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 16:50:34 -0700 Subject: (no subject) subscribe LRO ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:36:13 -0400 From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net> Subject: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)... Anyone have or know about a US spec Range Rover (preferably post '89, preferably in the Northeast US) which would make a suitable donour car for a Series 100" hybrid coil-over? Maybe a salvaged roll-over or interior fire damaged vehicle. Something with a good chassis, engine, drivetrain, and running gear (I don't care about the body or interior, obviously). Or, a US spec D90 in similar condition. Thought I'd query the list in my searches... Thanks... Jeff G. Boston, MA 1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1991 Range Rover Hunter Fusion Films, Inc. **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing** http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:36:11 -0400 From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net> Subject: LPG conversions... This may not apply very well to this list (as opposed to the coil list), but can someone give me the run-down on LPG conversions? What exactly is it? What are the benefits/drawbacks/abilities? How does it apply to the Landy engines (the 2.25L petrol, 3.5L or 3.9L)? How available is the stuff in Southern California? Thanks... Jeff G. Boston, MA 1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1991 Range Rover Hunter Fusion Films, Inc. **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing** http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:15:42 -0400 From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com> Subject: Ringwood off-road event sponsored by Zumbach, Sat, 12 Apr 1997 Did anyone on the list go to the off-road event sponsored by Zumbach this past Saturday, 12 April 1997? If so, how was it? Who knows where one might drive off the road in New Jersey or Southeastern New York aside from the New Jersey Pine Barrens? Thanks, David ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 02:06:56 UT From: "JAMES PAPPAS" <roverhead@msn.com> Subject: April Storm Hi all: I'm interested in hearing any short stories on what you might have done in your Land Rovers during the recent blizzard on April Fool's Day in the Boston area! I am putting together an article for the upcoming ROVER REFERENCE newsletter and would solicit your experiences!!! You don't have to be a member of the BSROA - just email me a contribution with your name or you can fax it to: 617-544-1250! Publication in about two weeks - so please get `em in! Thanks, Jim Pappas Chairman, BSROA ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 20:40:41 -0600 From: alan boyer <aboyer@intermountain.com> Subject: Re: Anyone have a donour Range Rover(US)... HI Jeff, I have access to many RR Chassis, Mostly Rolled Ones, Prices Range 5000 - 8000 US, I know of one I could probaly get out of Missouri, that is complete. This deals are money up front. I only deal with serious cash buyers. Alan, rovertech@usa.net At 06:36 PM 4/13/97 -0400, you wrote: >New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)] > **Film&Broadcast Visual FX and Compositing** > http://www.mv.com/ipusers/fusion ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness Strikes Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:17:33 +0200 (MET DST) Mike writes: | The air horn works fine when the contacts (its -ve earth/ground) are | touched across the battery terminals but when attached to the existing horn [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] | compressor runs but not hard enough.Its got to be something simple but so | am I. Any ideas? May be a to tiny wiring as someone alredy mentioned, or bad contacts somewhere along the wire. Take a voltmeter and check the voltage between the horn (+) and ground while operating it. If you don't get at least 11V check along the wiring until you find the point were the voltage is up again. Hope this helps, Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Another tip of the day Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 09:47:28 +0100 From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl> >Land Rovers! there is always something.... >-- >Adrian Redmond But they'll work again after some fine touches under the hood. Marc Rengers mr@grant.media-gn.nl Westeremden, Holland http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover #=====# #=========# also subscribed to |___|__\___ |____|__|__\___ LAND ROVER Owner International | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} (great magazine) "(_)""""(_)" ""(_)"""""""(_)" SOLD !!! 1977 "88" III 2.25 1987 "110" 2.5 petrol 23-67-XB diesel RH-12-PF Have: tools, knowledge, couch, no Pager: (+31) 06-59111461 money left for food Tel: (+31) 0596-551334 ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: And enlightening tip of the day... Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 8:57:35 BST When fitting the battery "frames" can leads on an FFR (both seated between the front seats where the middle seat/cubby box should be), take extreme care if using metal tools, the ground is connected, you have a hole in your jeans (just above one of the rear pockets in this case), and there are scratches in the paintwork on the seatbox... At least it was only 12v in this case, but it took a while to suss the funny spikey feeling... :-) The truck moved yesterday evening!!!! Still not roadworthy, but the main 'box works 1-4,R with low engaged; and I've tried High 1&R. The handbrake works (novelty!) and the clutch after being bled is nice and jumpy! Interestingly there still seems to be the tendancy not to engage Hi properly, and an extra shove is required on the lever. I thought I'd found this one (the spring clip in the ball on the hi-lo lever was missing, and a number of the levers/etc, detents,etc have been replaced). Now to sort the blowing exhaust (had to be taken out to get the the g'box mount), and bolt everything down - including adding the seatbelts. Cheers for all the help, Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: WANTED: Hardtopboxy-thing and sidepanels Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 09:59:06 +0100 From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl> Hello Rovers! I'm going to convert my 110 StaWag to a Hardtop, because the taxes in Holland are forcing me to (well, at least I will save a lot of money the next years). So if someone in Holland has or knows the boxy box and the side-panels to convert a StaWag into a Hardtop...... please let me know! I'm going to drop another engine in it too, hoping to spent less money on fuel. The old 2.5D will be replaced by a 300 TDi, wich has run only 30000 km. And the donor car is a 110 Hardtop, but it had a crash and guess what I can't use...... the body. Everything else is fine, chassis, engine, axels and so on. Happy Rovering-converting Marc Rengers mr@grant.media-gn.nl Westeremden, Holland http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover #=====# #=========# also subscribed to |___|__\___ |____|__|__\___ LAND ROVER Owner International | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} (great magazine) "(_)""""(_)" ""(_)"""""""(_)" SOLD !!! 1977 "88" III 2.25 1987 "110" 2.5 petrol 23-67-XB diesel RH-12-PF Have: tools, knowledge, couch, no Pager: (+31) 06-59111461 money left for food Tel: (+31) 0596-551334 ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 08:12:27 +0000 From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is> Subject: Re: 5 Years, No Move >Check fluids. Put super gas in tank. Install good battery. Try to turn >engine with crank to see if not seized. Hand Prime fuel pump. Turn the key >and the babe should start. I have seen this miracle happen. Its not a miracle! - My LR stood for ten years - never moved in that time - and I got it running in two days! The engine had seized but I could losen it with the hand crank, also had the clutch got stuck to the flywheel but it was no problem to get it loose. Amazingly all the fluids were still in place - except brake fluid which had leaked out of rusty pipes! So starting the LR after five years should be a easy task Bye Olafur Agust (olafura@rhi.hi.is) 66 S2a - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "It´s nice to be important!! - but it´s more important to be nice!!" DJ. Scooter Ólafur Ágúst Axelsson http://www.hi.is/~olafura - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:13:51 +0200 From: Floris Houniet <houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: The one that was taken away ;-( At 02:27 05/04/97 +0100, you wrote: >New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ >Hi, [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)] >;-) , they're asking 9000 dfl (+/- 4500$us) for it!!!!!!!! This 109 is >perfect in every way! I could've cried! Yea, and I wept when I was at the original sale, without about dfl 5000,- that they were selling for. :-( The lot was filled with about 200 of these landrovers, softtops special metal fexible tube from the exhast to ease wading all diesel engines etc. etc.... Two months after that came the Dutch Army parts sale, recon engines, new gearboxes, salisbury axles, EVERTHING.... but still no money..... sniff. One word of warning, if you do buy one, get the frame protected FIRST! They are all Ser III, still in the original 1 micron thick black shoe polish and this is by far the weakest part of this Landrover. Va bene, Floris Houniet. Ser IIa 1969 (Boerke) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es> Subject: Buying a 2.5 D 109 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:23:49 +0200 Hello, I'm subscribed to this list since 2 months ago, and now I can afford a Land Rover (it must be cheap, really cheap) Since I live in Spain, I will get a Santana one, diesel, of course. how to know if a Land is well, or wich pieces are hard to repair, how to see how many oil it leaks or burns. I know a little about mechanics, but not enough to know if a car is well paid. I've been seeing a pair of 109 Santana with about 15 - 20 years but I'm not sure, because I want it as a daily driver. Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English _______________________________ Quique Salavert Ferrer Cullera, Valencia, España ensafer@arrakis.es "No hay razones, solo sensaciones" _______________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es> Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 11:37:30 +0200 Hello, I'm subscribed to this list since some months ago, and now I can afford a Land Rover (I'm a student) Since I live in Spain I must buy a Land Rover Santana 2.5 Diesel, and I prefer a 109. What I want is any idea to recognize cars that have been well treated along its life, any problems, things possible to need a repair soon... Checking my money, I only can afford a 15 - 20 years old one, and I couldn't spend more money repairing it. How to know how many oil it leaks or burns? Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English. _______________________________ Quique Salavert Ferrer Cullera, Valencia, España ensafer@arrakis.es "No hay razones, solo sensaciones" _______________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Buying a 2.5 D 109 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 97 10:43:47 BST > Hello, > I'm subscribed to this list since 2 months ago, and now I can afford a Land [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] > how to know if a Land is well, or wich pieces are hard to repair, how to > see how many oil it leaks or burns. Don't know much about Santanas, but if they're like any other Landy: - they all leak oil. Mine burns oil too I put my newly-rebuilt gearbox in over the weekend, I see I have a few more drops on the driveway... - Difficult bits to get at: chassis and bulkhead. Attack both of these vigorously with a big screwdriver checking for rust,etc. Series Land Rovers are generally built for maintenance, everything is easy to get at - plenty of open space in the engine compartment, and "simple". (I put the gearbox in single-handedly without lifts or anything) > Thanks in advance for any suggestion, and sorry for my awful English Better than my Spanish! Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970414 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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