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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 06:54:16 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Rochester Carb part needed + question

Bonjour a tous, hello all, 

I have a Rochester Carb that was fitted on a 1962 109 that is leaking... It
runs perfectly, in fact, I never heard a Rochester run so well. I need to
find a kit to fix or to replace the bottom part of the carb (under the
"bowl") since fuel is leaking thru the shaft that goes across this base...
On what american models were these carburettors fitted? I don't need to
change the jets or anything, so the base should be identical for all
applications. Since it runs so fine, I don't need to change the whole
assembly, just this base... Is it possible to fix it or to buy this
replacement part?

Thanks in advance, 

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 07:12:24 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: 5 Years, No Move

At 22:26 97-04-11 -0800, you wrote:

>The neighbors say it's gotta go or else they'll tell on me to the City
Zoning police.
-
Is is licensed? If not, can you get it licensed? If the vehicle is licensed,
you shouldn't have trouble with the City Zoning chaps...
-
>So, I'm kinda at a loss as to what I should do to get the thing up and
going. It was running fine last time I parked it...I figure all precious and
vital fluids have leaked out or evaporated. So now what?

Check fluids. Put super gas in tank. Install good battery. Try to turn
engine with crank to see if not seized. Hand Prime fuel pump. Turn the key
and the babe should start. I have seen this miracle happen. 

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 08:38:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fun Weekend

All  Rover fans are welcome to come and join the fun at the Breckland Land
Rover Clubs "Eastern Counties Challenge". Being held at the Construction
Industry Training Board Centre Bircham Newton, Nr Kings Lynn, Norfolk,
England. from 2nd to 5th May. 
Attractions include a 3 mile off road course, RTV trial, CCV trial, free
camping for competitors, beer tent with evening entertainment, trade stands,
refreshments,childrens rides and dealer demonstration rides.

 For more information please contact myself on MRogers315@AOL.com. or to book
a place in the trials contact Mike or Wendy Chandler on 01692  404453.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 11:07:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 5 Years, No Move

>My Series III 88 has been sitting in the backyard for 5 (five) years now. 
>EEEEEK!!!!

Kevin - Have hope!  For four years of my IIa's life, she sat in a field 
in Utah.  Any mechanic I talked to told me she'd be junk, cylinders 
frozen.  But I had to try anyway.  

First I pulled & tossed the plugs and oiled all the cylinders.  While the 
rings were soaking, I drained the two gas tanks (sludge soup), hosed them 
out, & sprayed them out with alchohol (cheap isopropyl in a garden 
sprayer) to dry the last of the water out.  I then got out the hand crank 
to see if the pistons were free - they were, so I drained and refilled 
all the fluids.  Next were new plugs, points & condensor, static 
distributor timing, valve clearance, 5 gallons of gas and a new battery 
from Costco.  With a little priming, Lulubelle fired right up.

I drove her back to Wisconsin with the only weakness being a fuel pump 
that couldn't keep up, a sloppy timimg chain that broke a few miles from 
my house, and brakes that needed a two minute warning to stop the truck.

Good luck.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 11:58:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb part needed + question

Michel,

It's possible to replase the base only, provided you can find somebody that
has one! Those carbs have been out of production for a good 20 years (at
least), but there were so many produced that, with a little looking, you
should be able to find parts locally, if not a completely rebuilt carb.
They're cheap, about US $60.00, and any competent auto parts store should be
able to get one - HOWEVER: If you end up buying a replacement carb, use the
jet from the old one, because the size needed for Land Rovers can be
difficult to find - very difficult.

They were used on various Chevy models, from the 1930's upto the late 1950's,
so as I said, you have about 30-40 years' of mass production there, and you
should be able fo find what you need.

Charles Irvin
British Airways Cargo/LAX
1962 SIIA 109 3dr Diesel
1959 SII 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: D90 auxillary gas tank
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 11:38:42 -0500

Granny,
	
	You had e-mailed me before re. a guy who made a pair of tanks for his
truck.  I have a 1994 D90 and want to put in an aux tank under the
passenger seat.  If you have Doug Shipman's phone number or better yet his
e-mail, I would greatly appreciate any info.

Thanks,

John
bos@bellsouth.net

----------
> From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> John asks:
> >	I am contemplating installing an auxillary tank under the passenger
seat
> >in my 1994 D90.  I have some leads on OEM and aftermarket tanks but my
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> >thickness of steel?  Should I galvanize the innards?  What other
essential
> >pieces do I need?  Is this safe?
> Adrian replies [roundly snipped]:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> I don't think it is that easy, Adrian.  I think the leading arms (control
> arms) of the coiler suspension preclude this installation.  John, you
might
> contact Doug Shipman of Portland, Oregon, who made a pair of such tanks,
for
> left and right sides, for his 90" (literally) coiler (Series IIA 88" body
on
> 10-inch-shortened early RR chassis).  His tanks are of a very neat
design,
> made of stainless steel.  I expect he could make up more of these pretty
> easily, now that he's worked it all out.  Your frame will be somewhat
> different but not much, surely; certainly more like his than like a
Series
> frame, eh?
> Cheers,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Redwood Valley, CA, USA
> '73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 20:00:22 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Servo Pump and other questions

I have a "aftermarket - mod" brake-servo vaccuum pump on my 88" made my
Pierburg ( I have used the net to find a Pierburg in Neuss, Germany -
they are called Pierburg Luftfahrtgerat GmbH - but I am not sure if
that's the one) - the rubber diaphragm is ripped - I have fitted a spare
unit, but wish to renovate the old one for another rainy day - anybody
have any idea on where to buy a replacement diaphram for this unit? It
is only a rubber circle, about 100mm diameter, with six gasket holes
around the edge and a hole in the middle for the piston mount, can I
make one myself out of ordinary rubber? Any ideas welcome!

Anyone with a SIII 88" Petrol, using a solex/zenith carb (the "square"
one) - what sort of top speeds can you get out of it - on the flat, and
how is the acceleration? (what acceleration?) any tips for tuning these
beasties up - besides replacing the carb!

why should a heater/fan in a SIII 88" petrol give more heat, quicker
than the same package in a diesel - any ideas?

yours roverly!

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 16:13:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canvas Top 

Anyone need a new full-length canvas for a 110 in the U.S.?  Sand with 2
windows on each side and one in the rear,also has the roll-up straps. It was
sent to me by mistake. Don't hesitate if you want it

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 16:15:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Serial #'s

>...and the bolts ont the head opposite the intake are secured with wire...

If these bolts go in horizontally, and there are eight of them, they secure
the lifter assembly sleeves for the roller lifters in the block. Common to
all 2.25 motors. Locktite works just as well, but the wire is more, shall we
say, traditional.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 16:22:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fuel pickup screen part number

111 209 147a is the part number for the brass screen that goes over the
pickup tube in a Volkswagen Type I tank. Costs abour $5US. Probably fits
Types II, III andIV as well. It has a soft metal washer on one end that
serves to seal the tube and nut in thebottom of the tank. We don't need that
part. Just cut it off, and secure the rest of the screen around the pickup
tube with a clamp, wire tie or mechanic's wire. If you really artsy-craftsy,
solder it onto the tube, but be sure all fuel is gone from the tube first and
let it cool down before installation.
The usual caveats and disclaimers apply.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"*****FOR SALE*****drive anywhere

Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!  

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Servo Pump and other questions
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 15:14:05 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: IRC - anyone?
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 15:22:12 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

------------------------------

From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Servo Pump and other questions
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:37:12 -0400

Adrian wonders:
> why should a heater/fan in a SIII 88" petrol give more heat, quicker
> than the same package in a diesel - any ideas?

The thermal efficiency of a Diesel is greater than of an Otto cyle (petrol)
engine. That means relative to the mechanical power produced less heat
energy is produced. Also, the Diesel MAY put less heat into the coolant
than the exhaust gases. Hence less heat is available at the heater in a
Diesel than an Otto engine.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 17:57:25 -6
Subject: Re: Canvas Top 

> Anyone need a new full-length canvas for a 110 in the U.S.?  Sand with 2
> windows on each side and one in the rear,also has the roll-up straps. It was
> sent to me by mistake. Don't hesitate if you want it

How much are you asking? I'm interested. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 16:46:42 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Nada 6 Dormobile Value?

Anybody out there who can give a good guess
at value on the following:

A NADA 6 ('67) Dormobile, non - running,
siezed engine with spare.  (or alternatively
running with spare).  Interior OK but tattered.
Sink, stove and cabinets intact roof needing window.
Body cosmetics poor, some minor rust.

Thanks for any input - enquiring minds want to know :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 20:20:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: Rapping 2.6

This one is right up my alley!

Niels josephsen wrote;

>Mi i am the proud owner of an 109 with the 2.6  6cyl engine =

Me too!

>It has some time ago developed a rateling sound a little like a diesel bu=
>t harder = and only below 1000 rpm and it vanishes completely above 1100 rpm.
>The engine runs great at all other conditions. =

This sounds like your #1 big end rod bearing to me.  (Connection rod shell
bearing? not sure of the description in your country, I hear that it varies)

Have you poked around, with the engine running, with a broom handle (or
other listening instrument) to your ear to find where the noise is loudest?
(Don't listen to the fan!)

If you haven't already checked the bottom end of the engine don't worry it's
simple.

In a clean area, with the engine cool drain and remove the oil pan.  Then
simply rotate the crank with the starting handle untill the #1 piston is
somewhere into the bottom half of it's stroke (so you can get at it easily).
Carefully remove and inspect connecting rod cap and it's bearing.  Odds are
it's excessively worn -check the clearance with plastigauge- and then bite
the bullet and buy a new set of rod bearings of the correct size (check the
back of them for "std" ".010" ".020" etc.

You could get in there and check main (crankshaft) bearings while you're at
it -but I think you'll find that it's the rod bearing(s).

Good luck
Chris

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional      
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 18:16:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael K. MacDonald" <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I am trying to get to the back issues of the digest but can't seem to find
them where I believe they are.  My browser says it can't find the site.
Anyway, can anyone out there tell me how to get to them?

Next question.  I want to get a pair of rear seats (bench or singles) to
drop into the back of my 88".  Anyone got a useable pair that they'd sell?

And one more.  Anyone have plans for a full-length roof rack for an 88" they
could point me towards or copy for me?

Thanks,

Mike MacDonald
'57 Series I 88"  - don Quixote

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 22:39:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Help Me Pleez

WELL FELLOW ROVERHEADS... help me out with this one.  Here's the 
situation.   My son, Kyle, has my '70 IIa (342,000 miles) out in Eugene, 
OR.  Lulubelle started to die at stop lights, then just died 
all-together.  Kyle towed it back to his house and I posted his problems 
to the list.  What follows are my questions to you, your answers that I 
forwarded to Kyle, and now his response to the first tests.  I put his 
latest message in CAPS.  The rest are my questions and your answers.  I'd 
appreciate it if you would copy Kyle directly (JazzSanna@aol.com) if you 
have any further wisdom on this subject.  A parental THANKS in advance.  

HEY DAD, I'VE ONLY JUST STARTED TO LOOK THIS STUFF OVER AND START DOING 
TESTS.  HERE'S WHAT I'VE FOUND SO FAR:

>>RoverList Reply: Condensers often go bad, and begin to conduct. To test it,

put an ohmmeter across the leads (the case is one of the leads) The 
needle on the meter should briefly flick, and then settle at infinite 
resistance (open circuit). If *any* current is flowing after the initial 
"flick", replace the condenser. A bad condenser causes no spark by short 
circuiting the coil<<

I GET AN "INITIAL FLICK" BUT THEN IT GOES TO 0 RESISTANCE INSTEAD OF 
INFINITE.  UNLESS I'M DOING SOMETHING WRONG I GUESS THAT MEANS THAT THE 
CONDENSER IS BAD.  THE CONDENSER I'M ASSUMING IS THE METAL CYLINDER WITH 
ONE WIRE COMING OUT THAT DOESN'T GO DIRECTLY TO THE POINTS BUT IS 
"CONNECTED" TO THE POINTS.  I'M CHECKING IT FROM THE END OF THE WIRE TO 
THE CASING.

>>With the ignition on, all three wires (not the high voltage one) on  the 
coil register 12 volts to ground  If your measurement is taking place 
when the points are open, this is OK, but with the engine in a slightly 
different position, the points should be closed, and the wire that goes 
from the distributor to coil should be grounded (0 volts).<<

OK, THAT'S PRETTY MUCH THE CASE:  I'M GETTING JUST .18V WHEN THE POINTS 
ARE CLOSED.

>My question.  How do you test to see if the coil is getting the signal to 
fire? RoverList Reply: Take a test light with two alligator clips, (or 
again, use a brave friend), and connect one lead of the test light to the 
positive terminal of the battery, and the other lead to either end of the 
wire that goes from the coil to the dist. Make sure the HT lead from the 
coil to Dist. is disconnected so that the engine won't start 
unexpectedly. Then turn on the ignition and use the crank (preferred), or 
the starter to turn over the engine. The light should flash on and off. 
Steady on means the points are never opening. Steady off means that 
either the points are never closing, or the ground is not good enough. On 
an engine that sat for a while, I've also had enough corrosion on the 
points to make a bad connection- a nail file applied lightly fixes that.

I DID THIS, NOT WITH A LIGHT BUT WITH THE VOLTMETER AND I GOT 12.38V THE 
WHOLE TIME I CRANKED.  THE POINTS ARE DEFINITELY OPENING THOUGH.  AND THE 
SPACING IS SET CORRECTLY.  THE POINTS LOOK ALRIGHT TOO.

>1.  How do you test for a bad coil?   RoverList Reply: I usually run the
High 
Tension wire (big black one) from the coil to an old spark plug, and have 
a brave friend or a pair of vise grips hold the plug against a good 
ground. Then I take off the wire that goes from the dist. to the coil, 
and with the ignition switch on, use a scrap of wire to connect & 
disconnect the same coil terminal to the ground. Every time you pull the 
wire off the ground, the plug should spark. If it doesn't, check to see 
that the other coil terminal is getting +12. If the voltage is there, but 
the spark isn't, the coil is bad. 

CAN YOU EXPLAIN THIS OR THIS NEXT ONE:
1: TAKE THE SMALL WIRE OFF THE TERMINAL AT THE BACK 
OF DIST. AND WITH IGN ON FLASH TO GRND. IF THE COIL WIRE SPARKS TO GROUND 
COIL IS OK. IF NOT CHECK COIL AND WIRE TO IT. 

I'LL HAVE A LITTLE BIT MORE TIME TO MESS AROUND WITH THE CAR TODAY BUT IN 
ANY CASE I'LL CHECK MY MAIL TOMORROW AND CHECK MORE STUFF OUT THEN. . .K

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:12:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Lonesome Rover

Kevin Turinsky...turinsky@juno.com
    Kevin,
         Fear not, unless the engine is seized or mice have built a condo in
the oilpan, your 88 should start right up. (If it is a gas version!). I
picked up two 65's a while back, one with the pistons Seriously stuck, the
other turned over freely. After dragging them home, I set about prepping the
loose engine for running.
    1. Very important, Don't just throw a battery in and start cranking! A
little TLC will go a long way toward preventing damage.   Pull the plugs and
put a squirt of WD-40/Marvel Mystery oil/something thin and slippery into
the bores.
    2. Turn the engine over by hand or hand crank 15-20 times. This loosens
any corrosion in the bore and provides a seal for the dry rings. No seal, no
compression! 
    3. Check the oil level on the dipstick. If there is any doubt, drain the
oil and replace it. Unless you have cranked the engine or towed it in gear,
the filter should be ok. 
    4. Check the condition of the fuel and water lines, a leaky fuel system
in the engine bay is a recipe for disaster. Mice have probably had their way
with the electricals and water hoses. Try to get the cooling system to hold
water. If the electrics look gnawed on, disconnect the power leads from the
solenoid or battery and run new wires to the coil and distributor. Two short
lengths of 18 guage will do the trick. One from the solenoid to the coil,
the other from the sw side of the coil to the distributor. No need for a
switch, if the wires are hooked up, the ignition is "hot". Be sure to not
leave the wire to the coil plugged in for an extended time, the points will
burn. If done properly, everything else in the electrical system is dead, no
chance if smoke testing the harness. If you are sure the electrics are ok,
the above is unnecessary.
    4. I usually hook up a temporary gas tank. Pulling 10 year old fuel and
condensed water from a dicey tank thru a suspect fuel pump and an equally
dicey filter is asking for ulcers. Chances are the carb will be tempermental
enough. I usually hook up a temporary fuel tank by hanging a briggs and
stratton lawnmower tank from a wiper arm with plastic wire ties. Gravity is
fairly consistent in the northern hemisphere and will provide enough fuel
for our purposes. About 10 minutes at idle for a 2.25 LR engine.MAKE SURE
the tank is firmly attached to something rigid. A pint of unleaded makes a
loud noise if spilled on a hot exhaust manifold. 
    5. Now it's time to crank the engine with the battery to build oil
pressure. The plugs should still be out, no compression to overwork the
starter. Within 30 seconds there will either be an indication on a
mechanical guage or there will be a noticeable slowing of the engine as the
moving parts are affected by the drag of cold oil. Let the starter rest,
then do this again. When you are sure you have oil pressure, fuel, water,
and no leaks or smoke, it is time to check the points and attempt to start
the engine.
    6. With the key on or the temporary wiring installed, remove the dist
cap and crank the engine with the battery. (Still no spark plugs). There
should be a small spark at the points as they open and close. If not, either
wiring is faulty or the points need to be cleaned. This is done with a point
file or a small piece of emery paper. Be sure to clean the residue from the
points after this, they won't last long if you don't. If you appear to get a
spark there, check for one at the coil wire.  This can be done with a timing
lite if you have one (the easy way) or by holding the wire while standing in
a puddle (the hard way). Disclaimer: Don't do the second option if you have
a pacemaker! If all seems ok, Reassemble the rotor, and cap, spark plugs and
wires. Disconnect, the temp wiring or turn off the key.     7. It is time to
have a ceremonial cup of tea while topping off the charge on the battery and
checking for things I missed in the list above. Limbering up the choke
linkage comes to mind.
    8. After a reasonable wait and a prayer to the internal combustion gods,
turn on the ignition/hook up the wire to the coil and crank the sucker up!
If you paid close attention to the details, the beast will fire and you will
be amazed. If not, something small was missed. Go thru the fundamentals;
compression, fuel and spark. If it runs, the darned thing will stall after
8-12 minutes. Refill the gas tank, watch the hot exhaust!

    This may seem elaborate, but only takes about an hour, providing the
darned thing ran when parked. The key is to remove as many of the potential
problems from the equation first. Troubleshooting can eat up a Lot of time.
And improperly starting a static display Rover can result in an unnecessary
overhaul.
Then again, plenty of folks have just thrown in a hot battery and put a
splash of gas in the carb and had a running engine in 5 minutes! Your choice. 
     Let me know how it goes,    Regards, Ruthrfrd@borg.com
    

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 21:08:00 PST
Subject: WARNING-Non Land Rover Material
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

Just passing this along like a good citizen

> From: Rev. Paul Armes <knoxcal@townsqr.com>
> To: chatter@townsqr.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> >>>Laura Smither - 12 years old
> >>>She was last seen in Friendswood, TX,  the Alvin area off Moore Road
and
> >>>Ware Dairy Road jogging, around 9am  on April 3,1997
> >>>Laura is five feet three inches tall, weighs 98 pounds. She has
> Subject: Re: Fw: <covie-net> Missing Homeschooled kid
braces, a
> >>>fair complexion and long curly dark brown hair.
> >>>Laura was wearing a black T-shirt, dark blue shorts and white
> Subject: Re: Fw: <covie-net> Missing Homeschooled kid
running
> >>>shoes.
> >>>Friendswood Police - Case #97-304
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> >>>********************************
> >>>Well, it's been five days and there is still no word on the missing
12
> >>>year old homeschooler  in Texas. For the latest information and for
> >>>pictures
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> >>>their homepages, please feel free to do so to yours.
> >>>I've included a note from the girl's parents here. They would like the
web
> >>>site circulated as far as possible. Even though you may be far away
from
> >>>Texas, consider that it was only a short time ago that two girls
from
> >>>Michigan were found all the way in FL. In 5 days time, she could
have
been
> >>>taken almost
> >>>anywhere, including out of the country into Mexico. All leads are
being
> >>>checked into.
> >>>Your help and prayers are appreciated for her safe return.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> >>>Dear Mr. Ripma,
> >>>Since we talked this aftenoon we have been able to get some .jpg
files
> >>>f Laura.  They are not excellent, but the best I have available.  I
have
> >>>attached them to this message if you can use them.
> >>>As we have disccused,  the law enforcement agencies involved are
> >>> thanks, 
> >>>      <http:// www.friendswoodinfo.com >
making
> >>>slow
> >>>progress toward a resolution of our daughter's situation.  They are
in
> >>>need of any information that anyone might have about the morning of
April
> >>>3rd around 9AM in the vicinity of Moore Road.  Moore Road runs
between
> >>>FM528 and State Highway 35 at the south of Friendswood near Alvin.
> >>>Thank you for offering to post this information to homeschooling
> >>> thanks, 
lists
> >>>(including Taffie).
> >>>The volunteer effort in Friendswood has established an information
> >>> thanks, 
page
> >>>at:
> >>> <http://friendswoodinfo.com/>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> >>>**********************
> >>>  reposted by anne in chicago

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:45:31 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Slick 50 and more...

Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:55:22 +0100 (BST)
From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@service.britgas.co.uk>
Subject: Slick 50 and more...

>Forget Slick 50 - Has anybody ever used one of those magnet
>things which are supposed to reduce fuel consumption??

Back in the early 1980s we had a film editor in our unit who was a sucker
for every something-for-nothing scam that came along.  He bought a set of
the magnets that you're supposed to tape to either side of your fuel line
to "polarize" the gas molecules.  This was supposed to make if flow better
through your carburetor and give you better mileage.  Never mind the fact
that the gas was first going to slosh around in the carburetor bowl and get
all "unporarized" again....  Anyway, this fellow ordered a magnet kit for
about $50, which when it arrived consisted of two cow magnets that you
could by at the local Farm & Feed store for about a buck, a small roll of
electrical tape, and a set of instructions.  He dutifuly taped the magnets
to the fuel line of his new Chrysler as instructed and awaited his mileage
increase.

This was in the days before locking gas caps or covers were in vogue, so we
started adding a gallon or two of fuel to his car each day while he was
inside working.  Of course, he got phenominal mileage, something in the
order of 30 to 40 mpg in a car which had been getting about 18 before the
application of the cow magnets.  Our friend lost no opportunity to gloat
about his incredible mileage to the rest of us who had dared to express
skepticism, and he even wrote to the company that had sold him the things
praising them for their magnificent product.  This went on for about four
weeks, and then we stopped adding the gas.  His mileage abrubtly fell to
the 18 mpg the car had gotten originally.  Our editor was devastated.  He
remounted the cow magnets, he tried calling the company that had sold them
to find out what he'd done wrong, he wrote letters, all to no avail.  We
didn't have the heart to tell him what we'd done.  He left our organization
a year or so later, and I didn't see him for several years.  When I did, I
asked him if he still had the cow magnets on his car.  Oh, yes, he replied.
He hadn't gotten his fabulous mileage back, but he was convinced that
someday he'd figure out what had gone wrong and then we'd all be sorry we
hadn't gotten a set, too.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 23:51:04 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive...

Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 20:19:54 -0400
From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive ...

At 08:31 PM 4/10/97 -0700, Jeremy wrote:
>The Superwinch manual/instructions say check it weekly with the threads
>screwed all the way in. "Dipstick reading should be obtained by screwing fully
>into place."  It doesn't state but it seems to me that the mark
>is the minimum level

I have always thought that the mark was the Full mark or a MAX mark, could
explain why the thing makes so much noise :( even though I think they all
are noisy anyway. Can anyone confirm if the mark is Max or Min.

The instructions I received with my Fairey Overdrive back in the early
1970s state that the mark on the dipstick is the MAXIMUM level.  Allowing
the level to increase above the mark on the dipstick runs the same risk as
allowing engine oil to exceed the maximum mark on its dipstick: you can get
frothing and air bubbles which will actually reduce the lubrication of the
parts.  My overdrive instruction sheet is quite adamant about the damage
that can occur if the oil level is allowed to exceed the maximum mark on
the dipstick.  Hope this helps.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 03:14:20 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Slick 50 and more...(fuel magnets)

At 23:45 97-04-12 -0800, you wrote:
-
Anyway, this fellow ordered a magnet kit for
>about $50, which when it arrived consisted of two cow magnets that you
-could by at the local Farm & Feed store for about a buck, a small roll of
>electrical tape, and a set of instructions.  
-
Well, looks like the price went down. JCWhithney has them for $19.95, part
#81DH0523T with quote from some kind of scientist...11.6% increase in fuel
economy...

Will the magnets affect the catalytic corrosion? :-)

Keeping my molecules together, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 01:21:12 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Slick 50 and more...

Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 15:55:22 +0100 (BST)
From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@service.britgas.co.uk>
Subject: Slick 50 and more...

>Forget Slick 50 - Has anybody ever used one of those magnet
>things which are supposed to reduce fuel consumption??

Back in the early 1980s we had a film editor in our unit who was a sucker
for every something-for-nothing scam that came along.  He bought a set of
the magnets that you're supposed to tape to either side of your fuel line
to "polarize" the gas molecules.  This was supposed to make if flow better
through your carburetor and give you better mileage.  Never mind the fact
that the gas was first going to slosh around in the carburetor bowl and get
all "unporarized" again....  Anyway, this fellow ordered a magnet kit for
about $50, which when it arrived consisted of two cow magnets that you
could by at the local Farm & Feed store for about a buck, a small roll of
electrical tape, and a set of instructions.  He dutifuly taped the magnets
to the fuel line of his new Chrysler as instructed and awaited his mileage
increase.

This was in the days before locking gas caps or covers were in vogue, so we
started adding a gallon or two of fuel to his car each day while he was
inside working.  Of course, he got phenominal mileage, something in the
order of 30 to 40 mpg in a car which had been getting about 18 before the
application of the cow magnets.  Our friend lost no opportunity to gloat
about his incredible mileage to the rest of us who had dared to express
skepticism, and he even wrote to the company that had sold him the things
praising them for their magnificent product.  This went on for about four
weeks, and then we stopped adding the gas.  His mileage abrubtly fell to
the 18 mpg the car had gotten originally.  Our editor was devastated.  He
remounted the cow magnets, he tried calling the company that had sold them
to find out what he'd done wrong, he wrote letters, all to no avail.  We
didn't have the heart to tell him what we'd done.  He left our organization
a year or so later, and I didn't see him for several years.  When I did, I
asked him if he still had the cow magnets on his car.  Oh, yes, he replied.
He hadn't gotten his fabulous mileage back, but he was convinced that
someday he'd figure out what had gone wrong and then we'd all be sorry we
hadn't gotten a set, too.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 01:22:45 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive...

Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 20:19:54 -0400
From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive ...

At 08:31 PM 4/10/97 -0700, Jeremy wrote:
>>The Superwinch manual/instructions say check it weekly with the threads
>>screwed all the way in. "Dipstick reading should be obtained by screwing
>>fully
>>into place."  It doesn't state but it seems to me that the mark
>>is the minimum level

>I have always thought that the mark was the Full mark or a MAX mark, could
>explain why the thing makes so much noise :( even though I think they all
>are noisy anyway. Can anyone confirm if the mark is Max or Min.

The instructions I received with my Fairey Overdrive back in the early
1970s state that the mark on the dipstick is the MAXIMUM level.  Allowing
the level to increase above the mark on the dipstick runs the same risk as
allowing engine oil to exceed the maximum mark on its dipstick: you can get
frothing and air bubbles which will actually reduce the lubrication of the
parts.  My overdrive instruction sheet is quite adamant about the damage
that can occur if the oil level is allowed to exceed the maximum mark on
the dipstick.  Hope this helps.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

SPAM

------------------------------

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