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Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 07:21:49 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Re: Leaky Discoveries

>next day it starts somewhere else?
>HELP. If you've any suggestions, I would greatly appreciation them.

What was the problem?

  _______
. |___|__\_==
. | _ |  | --]   Ned Heite,                <DARWIN><
. =(O)-----(O)=  Camden, DE 19934          / \  / \
---------------------------------
"Baby" Series IIA 88" 2.25L petrol Land Rover
Wool Camp in Iceland:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland------------
Recent research:  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html -----

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: CB40
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 12:29:37 BST

"Its not a number, its a free car!"

Well, the folks on CIX have come up with:

FriedPander

and

FreiLander     (with a slight Bavarian accent)

Both beat my "Freeloader"....

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - what is Nepalese for "FFR"?)

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: diesel injectors
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:29:16 +0200 (MET DST)

Hello all,
I'm about to give Brumml new injectors since he's smoking more
and more. Now I tried to find a place that can check LR injectors
and the only ones over here who do such jobs seem to be the
Bosch-services. I phoned the one here in M"unchen (Munich) and
the guy there told me, if I'd fit new injectors the mating surfaces
of the injector and it's holder have to be sleeved (right word?)
to assure that they don't leak. But I had the impression that he
did talk more about Bosch injectors than LR ones. The workshop 
manual however doesn't mention this at all. It just says that the
surfaces must be smooth. Judging from the picture in the book 
I'd say that this simply can't be done because of the two pins 
at the holder that center the injector. Or are these pins removable?

Hope some diesel gurus read this and can give me some input.

Thanks,
Franz
P.S. the injectors of my 2.5D are the same as that of the 2.25D
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 08:03:54 -0400
Subject: Re: diesel injectors

Franz, I'm no Diesel god, but I'd had the injectors in and out of my 2.25
Diesel several times without leaks or any other problems.

As long as the crush washers are replaced and things get cleaned up
properly there should be no reason to sleeve or
otherwise mess with the injector ports. As a matter of fact, i pulled my
injectors, sent them to be cleaned and adjusted,
and reinstalled them myself - it's a fairly trivial exercise.

I wouldn't let them mess with it.

                         Alan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 04:39:45 +0000
From: petrova <petrova@loop.com>
Subject: Land Rover

From: RSTES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:03:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

for sale,series I land rover.has been partially taken apart for
restoration.this rover is complete and a good candidate for 
restoration.iam
selling it for $2500.00.i also have a 1995 discovery for sale which 
is really
clean.please 'e' mail me if interested at:rstes@aol.com.happy 
rovering to
all.      ron s.

Where are you located? Can you give more details?

******************************************
Ana Petrova
c/o Peter's Marina Motors    800 Lincoln Blvd.
Venice, California 90291    Tel: 310-399-8313
mailto:petrova@loop.com     http://EnglishCars.com
********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 08:45:46 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Nada #753 found!!

To the person who is collecting info on the Nadas, I found the #753
yessterday. Complete, not running, broken frame and Koenig winch with PTO
(on the gearbox).

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 8:48:20 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors

There is a copper gasket that goes on the end of the injector that 
performs the sealing function. It can be reused by heating red-hot and 
then dunking in water, but new ones are likely not very expensive. I 
think this is what you're referring to.
Tell your injector man to take a walk, and fit the new ones yourself....a 
half-hour job that requires only an adjustable wrench.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:03:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

Just a quick question - 
what's the correct Champion spark plug for my 1973 Series III 2.25l w/ 8:1
compression?
It's time to replace them and I'm not sure I put the correct heat range in
last time.
thanks,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:12:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Leaky Discoveries

In a message dated 4/8/97 12:12:50 AM, Kerrie wrote:

>I am having a terrible time trying to get the leaks stopped on my 94
>Discovery.  Transmission and brake fluid.  
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> They claim to have replaced all possible seals, but it is still ruining my
>driveway. 

I guess the dealer didn't give you the 1/2 Gallon bottle of Genuine Land
Rover "Oil-Proof-R" to spread over your driveway before bringing the Rover
home... they are supposed to include one with every new sale and at least two
bottles if it is a used vehicle being sold. The reason they keep them to
themselves is to do their own driveways at home. They will obviously deny the
whole thing, so *call Lanny at RN* and see if they've got some...  ; )

pat.
93  110

ps. just changed oil and missed catch pan entirely. lotsa black oil
everywhere. EPA, if you are reading this, I licked it clean with my
neighbor's cat's tounge. SPCA, if you are reading this, never mind.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:28:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

8:1 2.25 sparkplugs:

Same as a Rangie, oddly enough! Just look up an older Mange Rover in the
applications book - I believe it's an RN14YC or the like....

                    aj"Thanks to Ben Smith for this info"r

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 15:32:16 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Paint by Numbers?
	[ please post only ASCII text to the list. HTML is removed]

<HTML><BODY>
Rick Grant wrote:&nbsp;

<BR>New ! Improved ! <A HREF="http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/">http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/</A>
<BR>
<BR>I need some basic info on how to go about painting my Sll.
<BR>
<BR>The thing has about three coats in varying colours.&nbsp; The paint on
the rear
<BR>door looks a lot like ordinary house paint.
<BR>
<BR>What kind (brand name) of chemical can I use to strip the aluminium?&nbsp;
What
<BR>kind for the galvinized bits?&nbsp; What sorts of primers should I use?
<BR>
<BR>I'd just as soon go the foam roller and brush route so I don't have to
worry
<BR>about creating a neighbourhood fog but I wonder whether anyone would know
of
<BR>a marine or otherwise brushing paint that would be close to a Limestone
White.
<BR>
<BR>And finally, can I use a random orbit palm sander for the wet sanding or
<BR>should I stick to endless manual rubbing?
<BR>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Rick Grant
<BR>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
1959, SII&nbsp;&nbsp; &quot;VORIZO&quot;
<BR>
<BR>rgrant@cadvision.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
<BR>Aboriginal and International Relief Issues
</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;Hi Rick -
<BR>
<BR>Regards painting here's my recipe -
<BR>
<BR>If it's the first time you have painted the SIII, then i probably needs
a very good rub-down - orbital sanders are ok - chemical removers may be
necessary for galvanised bits (be sure to clean afterwards). Steel brushes
are to be avoided at all costs on birmabright aluminium, but you can make
a mask of alu which you gaffa tape to the body beside the galvanised bits
to protect alu. whilst brushing. Wire brushes on drills or preferanbly
angle grinders are perfect for steel parts - not too hard on the galv as
the zinc can be removed - the chassis is easy to strip with a scraper if
it's been undersealed - better still high pressure steam. If you choose
to go that route, painting the chassis (if not galv) is preferable to underseal,
but requires annual repaint.
<BR>
<BR>Any body parts such as front wings (fenders?) and sills should be removed
and painted seperately to avoid crud/oxidised corrosion between parts.
The general rule is - the cleaner the car is the longer the paint will
last.
<BR>
<BR>Sand, brush, clean and wash all body parts - possibly use filler on dents
and scratches and sand afterwards.
<BR>
<BR>Primer - use a good, rough primer which is made for vehicle painting -
ask a local spray shop. The primer has several functions, besides priming
- it is easier to be sure to spray enough new green paint if the base is
another colour, and the primer fills the scrathes fairly well. It is important
that the primer has the same base and thinners as the top coat.
<BR>
<BR>Choose paints and primers on two criteria - either how hardwearing they
are, or how noxious they aren't! It is unusual to be able to satisfy both
criteria.
<BR>
<BR>Ideally paint indoors, in a very warm room, with the body warm - much better
contact, less dust spots and better finish. Use a good quality full face
mask with filters for organic solvents which match the paint and thinners
you are using.
<BR>
<BR>Do not try to mix thinners types, terpentine (avoid at all costs), celluslose
and xylene do not mix - if mixed the paint will bubble or coagulate. My
experience from regular DIY painting says Xylene is the best, but be sure
to have prober safety equipment.
<BR>
<BR>Most car paints, including xylene based paints, are made for &quot;one
coat&quot; jobs - you spray around the vehicle, building up a thick layer,
slowly to avoid runs and drips, covering previosly painted areas within
20 minutes to an hour of the previous coat - sooner if you use a hardner
component in the paint. Once you decide that enough is enough, and you
stop, you must not add new paint for at least three weeks - otherwise the
unevaporated thinners in the paint will cause the paint to bubble (not
always but the risk isn't worth it!)
<BR>
<BR>I recommend a hardner in the paint - usually a isocyanate component which
is mixed with the paint and thinners at the rate of about 10% hardner.
This makes for a quicker drying (less time for coat to absorb dust) and
less runs in the paint - it is possible to build a thick and hard, shiny
coat up in this way.
<BR>
<BR>I recommend a spray gun (although I have had very good results with a good
quality brush as long as I abide by the same rules as above). A good capacity
compressor is essential 150 to 400 ltrs per minute - but pressure should
not exceed 5-6 bar (otherwise the gun will spray too heavily and you get
runs). Ensure that you use a pressure reducing valve on the airline, and
that you have a demoisturiser fitted to collect water in the comp.air -
otherwise this will be sprayed onto the car and make marks in the paint.
<BR>
<BR>Cure all corrosion problems (nylon or copper washers, brass or copper bolts,
even stainless steel where possible) I always put Nippon self-amalgamating
rubber tape between joints in bodywork, especially different metal joints,
to minimise corrosion.
<BR>
<BR>If you have the possibility, get your rims sand-blasted or bead-blasted,
then metalized (zing spray coated) and electrostatically painted with powder
- this will last a long time!
<BR>
<BR>Remove windows, runners, rubber flanges and all that - it is behind the
&quot;small bits&quot; that rust/corrosion starts.
<BR>
<BR>As regards sourcing the paint, I don't know the situation in Calgary, but
my local paint and wallpaper shop mixes a special car paint to the original
LR/Leyland recipe and the match is perfect.
<BR>
<BR>It takes longer than you think - and paint for cars is expensive compared
to plastic emulsions, but it is worth it.
<BR>
<BR>Good luck - hope these tips help!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
<BR>---------------------------------------------------&nbsp;
<BR>CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (Adrian
Redmond)&nbsp;
<BR>Foerlevvej 6&nbsp; Mesing&nbsp; DK-8660&nbsp; Skanderborg&nbsp; Denmark&nbsp;
<BR>---------------------------------------------------&nbsp;
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
<BR>HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com&nbsp;
<BR>---------------------------------------------------&nbsp;
<BR>

</BODY>
</HTML>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 06:49:53 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: SUs on a LR

At  4:41 PM 4/7/97 -0400, QROVER80@aol.com wrote:

>There are two varieties of TR3/2 heads. The "high" port type and the "low"
>port type. The High port kind is the most common as it fits all the TR3/4/4a
;family after TR3 commission number ts13052e ( about 1957) ALAS this is the
>one that DOESN'T FIT! You need to find the early one and they are quite rare
;now because most folks have converted to the newer style head and the old
>parts are LONG gone.
;Rgds Quintin Aspin
;
>1958 Tr3a
;1968 Tr6
;AND LOTS of Rovers :-)
;
That's strange.  It was a high port intake manifold that I matched up with
the LR itake manifold.  How doesn't it fit?

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

Medium & large format photography, 1960 Land Rover 109,  1961 Triumph TR3A

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 08:54:58 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Anthony Sanna's Spark Questions

>1.  How do you test for a bad coil?

I usually run the HT wire from the coil to an old spark plug, and have a
brave friend or a pair of vise grips hold the plug against a good ground.
Then I take off the wire that goes from the dist. to the coil, and with the
ignition switch on, use a scrap of wire to connect & disconnect the same
coil terminal to the ground. Every time you pull the wire off the ground,
the plug should spark. If it doesn't, check to see that the other coil
terminal is getting +12. If the voltage is there, but the spark isn't, the
coil is bad. 

>2.  How do you test to see if the coil is getting the signal to fire?

Take a test light with two alligator clips, (or again, use a brave friend),
and connect one lead of the test light to the positive terminal of the
battery, and the other lead to either end of the wire that goes from the
coil to the dist. Make sure the HT lead from the coil to Dist. is
disconnected so that the engine won't start unexpectedly. Then turn on the
ignition and use the crank (preferred), or the starter to turn over the
engine. The light should flash on and off. Steady on means the points are
never opening. Steady off means that either the points are never closing, or
the ground is not good enough. On an engine that sat for a while, I've also
had enough corrosion on the points to make a bad connection- a nail file
applied lightly fixes that.

>3.  If the coil fires when the points open, and the gap determines the 
>duration of the spark, how exactly does this work?  You'd think it would 
>fire when the points closed.  What does the condenser do?

I *think* the spark occurs for the same length of time always, the gap only
detemines how long the coil remains disconnected. Obviously, screwing with
the gap will always mess up your timing, so remember to re-set the timing
anytime you mess with the points.

I can't give a good scientific explanation of why the spark occurs upon
opening the connection, but it has always made common sense to me... Prior
to closing the circuit, nothing is happening (there is no potential) and a
mgenetic field is created, but slowly as it resists itself. But when you
break the circuit, the magnetic field is at full strength, and collapses
quickly.

The condensor briefly absorbs the current flow across the points to keep
them from sparking across the point gap (and now that I think about it, also
slows the creation of that initial magnetic field...). Condensors often go
bad, and begin to conduct. To test it, put an ohmmeter across the leads (the
case is one of the leads) The needle on the meter should briefly flick, and
then settle at infinite resistance (open circuit). If *any* current is
flowing after the initial "flick", replace the condensor. A bad condensor
causes no spark by short circuiting the coil. No condensor causes your
points to burn up.

>4.  With the ignition on, all three wires (not the high voltage one) on 
>the coil register 12 volts to ground (Lu's got a 1 bbl Weber, so there's 
>the third wire from the coil to the fuel cut-off plunger).

If your measurement is taking place when the points are open, this is OK,
but with the engine in a slightly different position, the points should be
closed, and the wire that goes from the distributor to coil should be
grounded (0 volts).

>5.  If it is the coil, what's a good replacement?  The one Lu has now was 
>put on 15-20 years ago, and it was a Bosch from a VW I think.

I just go to the parts store and ask for a "universal coil" They come in two
flavors- with, and without the ballast resistor built in. I have a '61 IIa,
which didn't have a ballast, so I bought one with an internal ballast. I'm
guessing that your truck probably has an external ballast though. While
we're on the subject, a burned up ballast resistor, or bad connections in
this area can get you also. Since you have 12v at the coils, this is
probably not your current problem.

>6.  Are distributor parts available, or is this a 
>pull-it-all-out-and-stick-in-a-whole-new-one repair.

I dunno, but a loose plate could cause the problem you describe. If the
plate is loose, the point gap will slowly slide closed, and eventually they
never open, or open way too late. This would cause the test light to stay on
steadily (question# 2), or a constant 12V reading on the coil/distributor
lead no matter what position the engine is in (question #4). It's probably
loose because the screw that holds it down has been stripped by a mechanic
trying to get it too tight. I've been able to do a temporary repair in this
situation by putting in a bigger screw (it still has to be small enough to
let the plate slide for adjustment.) If you have to replace the whole dist,
remember that other british cars may use the same Lucas Dist, so you may
have more parts sources than you think.

Whew!... Sorry about the length of that reply. Hope it helps though.

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:30:30 +0200 (MET DST)

Bill,
| There is a copper gasket that goes on the end of the injector that 
| performs the sealing function. It can be reused by heating red-hot and 
| then dunking in water, but new ones are likely not very expensive. I 
| think this is what you're referring to.
Don't think so. I think he was talking about the surface where the
injector itself mates to the holder (to which the diesel line leads.
In fact I told him that I'd just bring the injector assemblies, not
the whole truck. If you pull them the injector and the holder are 
hold together by a nutlike thing.

Cheers,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 08:52:35 -6
Subject: Re: diesel injectors

> From:          Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
snip
> Now I tried to find a place that can check LR injectors
> and the only ones over here who do such jobs seem to be the
> Bosch-services.
I would think there would be a CAV shop, even in Germany. Are Massey 
Ferguson tractors sold there? They use CAV systems. Or try to find a 
Perkins engine shop as they also use CAV componets.

> I phoned the one here in M"unchen (Munich) and
> the guy there told me, if I'd fit new injectors the mating surfaces
> of the injector and it's holder have to be sleeved (right word?)
> to assure that they don't leak.
No. You need to use new copper and new steal sealing washers. Unless 
there is damage to the mating surfaces, they'll seal fine.

> But I had the impression that he
> did talk more about Bosch injectors than LR ones. The workshop 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> I'd say that this simply can't be done because of the two pins 
> at the holder that center the injector. Or are these pins removable?
If you're speaking of the mounting studs, yes, they are removable, 
but you shouldn't need to.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:09:17 +0200 (MET DST)

Tom,
| > I'd say that this simply can't be done because of the two pins 
| > at the holder that center the injector. Or are these pins removable?
| If you're speaking of the mounting studs, yes, they are removable, 
| but you shouldn't need to.
Yes, I ment the surface with the mounting studs and I'm halfway sure
that that was the thing this Bosch guy talked about, too.
He told me that sleeving and adjusting the injectors would take about 
an hour and cost me 150DM (~100US$).

>From your and others replies I'd say I don't have to sleeve anything.
I just put the new injectors on the holders and get them adjusted to the
right pressure. Right?

Many thanks and keep the oily side down,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:24:17 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors

> He told me that sleeving and adjusting the injectors would take about 
> an hour and cost me 150DM (~100US$).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> I just put the new injectors on the holders and get them adjusted to the
> right pressure. Right?
Actually there isn't any adjustment you do when installing the 
injectors. If the dist pump is right, you'll have the right pressure. 
The rebuild shop should do the adjusting to the spray pattern when 
doing the rebuild. It's been a long time since I've had CAV injectors 
apart, but "sleeve" rings a bell, whether real or imagined I'm not 
sure. There may be a sleeve of some sort in the injector itself.
But in any case, the question to ask is "How much to rebuild my 
injectors if I remove them and bring them in?" $100 US for all for 
isn't all out of reason. I've spent more than that over ten years 
ago. My experience has been that some shops have a flat rate, and 
some base it on actuall time & materials. But the variation isn't 
that wide.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:33:48 -0500
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

Erik askes,
>Just a quick question -
>what's the correct Champion spark plug for my 1973 Series III
that is a question with several answers.
The Champion is a RN14YC.
But to really answer your question is the Bosch WR9DC (c=copper) or the
WR9DP (p=platinum).
If you are going to replace the plugs then get some plugs that fire
consistantly to start with i.e. not Champion.  Personal thought in there
somewhere...

Standard disclaimers

Mike Johnson

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  178,000+
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin some
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:40:58 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: DC area Meeting!

To those of you concerned about where and when the meeting will take 
place...here it is.
Sunday, April 13th at 1 p.m. in Greenbelt Park, a National Park Service 
area located on MD 193 just past Greenbelt Road in...you guessed 
it...Greenbelt Maryland. There is a free picnic area called "Sweetgum" 
where it is pretty much first come first served as far as tables and 
grills are concerned. There are modern restrooms with handicap 
facilities. There are jungle gyms and such for the kids.
There are picnic areas that may be reserved, but they charge $50 for 
1-100 people, and I don't think that anyone will want to pony up for this 
privilege.
Bring your own food and beverages for tailgating, as we aren't organized 
enough yet to have designees for these tasks.
I'll be there at noon to establish a beach head and get the grill going. 
I'm doing fish and chicken.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Fred Herman" <hfherman@hotmail.com>
Subject: Eurospec 2.6 engine
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 11:03:44 PDT

I have an operating European spec 2.6 litre Land-Rover engine.  It is being 
taken out so a GM 250 can go in it's place.  Rather than scrap or part it I'd 
prefer to send it to a good home. If anyone is interrested, send me a message 
off line. 
Fred Herman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 12:39:39 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: I'm impressed (LRW)

Got the shock of my life a moment ago as I was flipping through the April
issue of Land Rover World..

There at the top of the "Club News" section are quotes from a note I sent to
this list some time ago about the differences between the two LR magazines.
I'm quoted fairly and accurately and I presume Dixon Kenner is as well since
he's in the same section.

I must say that I've been impressed with the way LRW has been handling the
various controversies in its Letters pages and I can't help but be pleased
with the shift I've seen toward more technical related articles.  So, no
more moaning from me about LRW -- time for a subscription.

(I wonder whether I can add a LRW writing credit to my publications list?) <g>

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:41:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Anthony Sanna's Spark Questions

>Whew!... Sorry about the length of that reply. Hope it helps though.

Thanks for all the info.  This is great.  I'll be forwarding it off to my 
son.  We'll see what happens.

Thanks again.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 14:56:28 -0400
From: "spencer k. c. norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: re: DC area Meeting!

bill, 
i will see you there sunday, i'll bring some hotdogs & hot sauce

spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
Land Rover 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:56:38 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: What's new?

Hey Tony, howya doin?
What did you end up doing about the tranny? We sort of lost touch 
about it. I don't know if I didn't follow through or what, but if I 
did, sorry. Things got kinda crazy late in the year as we had another 
son.

The engine in my Rover finally went to the big junk yard in the sky. 
Or at least it would require alot of money to revive, so I have 
a Rover diesel on it's way from MO. Should be here Thursday. Now if 
the weather would only cooperate. :-(

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 97 15:07:51 EST
Subject: Re[2]: DC area Meeting!

>bill, 
>i will see you there sunday, i'll bring some hotdogs & hot sauce

>spenny
>Arlington, VA

I'll bring some matches and a jerrican of petrol. We can use the Green Car 
as a briquette...

rrrrrr.
DaveB.
never pet a burning Rover

stay tuned for the next episode of "Seven Masters for Seven Slaves (TM)" 
the story of a man and his clutch...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 13:45:39 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: What's new?

Nuts. Haste got me. Didn't mean to post it to the list. Sorry.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:33:58 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Paint strippers

Rick Grant asked:
>What kind (brand name) of chemical can I use to strip the aluminium?  What
>kind for the galvinized bits?  What sorts of primers should I use?

I had this question a while ago and was pointed to aircraft-grade paint 
removers:

>>If the paint in the areas next to the galvanized parts should be damaged, it
>>would not matter since I plan to have it re-painted anyway (the original RAF
>>blue with grey wheels, probably).
>In that case I would recommend a chemical stripper. Avoid those which use 

acid or strong alkali to strip paint, especially those "blanket strippers" 
which use sodium hydroxide. These will also severely corrode zinc and 
aluminium and will damage bodywork and galvanised parts. Look for strippers 
which use methylene dichloride which is a very unpleasant chemical, must 
only be used in well-ventilated conditions but does not attack the bodywork.
>The stripper should be a water-soluble preparation, some need to be removed 
>>would not matter since I plan to have it re-painted anyway (the original RAF
with a solvent such as white spirit (purified kerosene) and are unpleasant 
to use to cover a large area. Water soluble ones can be removed with a hose 
or a trip to a jet car wash.
>Even the best strippers leave you a lot of work to do with a stiff-bristled 
>>would not matter since I plan to have it re-painted anyway (the original RAF
brush. I would be careful of using wire wool on a Land Rover since the fine 
metal particles it leaves behind cause electrolytic corrosion "hot spots." 
Rubbing down is best done with aluminium oxide abrasive paper. If using a 
wire brush, stainless steel is better than the cheaper brushes which are 
generally available.

I found a methylene dichlorid water-soluble stripper from Eastwoods, but 
have not used it yet. Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: n4ptk@InfoAve.Net
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 08:37:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Help! No Spark! No Go!

Hi Anthony,

	I am not any kind of expert, but your problems are
similar to all older vehicles, British or American.

>...the mechanic said that the distributor plate, the one that the 
>points & condenser are attached to, was loose.  Besides its normal timing 
>advance rotation, it could be moved from side to side inside the 
>distributor housing.

	This is normal for most "older" types of distributors in many 
cars and trucks.  The "plate" is free to turn.  As the engine RPM's
increase there is a set of weights under this plate that "sling" it
around to advance the timing.  A fast RPM needs the spark to the
cylinder to occur quicker than a slow RPM since the spark travels
down the plug wire at the same speed.

>When Kyle, my son, cranked the engine & checked for spark, he got none.  
>When he pulled the coil wire at the distributor cap he still got no spark 

Have you checked to be sure you are getting voltage to the (+) terminal
of the coil when the ignition is turned on???

>1.  How do you test for a bad coil?

	Coils are just that, a simple coil.  There is a winding or
bundle of wires on the primary side, and a bundle or winding of
wires on the secondary side.  When wires are bundled together, but
not touching (insulated from each other) and electricity is introduced
to that bundle, a magnetic field baloons up around that bundle.  Some
of the electricity from this magnetic field is introduced into the
secondary winding even though they are separate from each other 
(insulated from each other).  There will be many, many more winding
on the secondary side.  The effect of this is that if the primary
side has 12 volts (or in may cases 6 volts), the secondary side will
develope much greater potentional or in effect much greater voltage.
This field is present so long as the current is applied to the primary
side.  When the points ground the primary side, the secondary side
"dumps" the potential (voltage) it has been holding.  This you have
a surge of high voltage electricity out of the center (secondary)
winding of the coil and into the distributor.  The little condensor
on the side of the points "soaks" up any spark that might momentarily
arc across the points and keeps them from "burning".  If the condensor
fails, the points will overhead from the arcing and burn out relatively
quickly.  To answer your question, if you are sure you have 12 volts
or 6 volts to the (+) side of the coil and then short the points, it
should fire to the cylinder under the rotar cap in the distributor.  If
it does not, either the coil or points are probably bad.  

>2.  How do you test to see if the coil is getting the signal to fire?

	Take the distributor cap off and slowly turn the engine over.
are the points completely opening and completely closing?  Look at
the surfaces of the points.  If they are pitted or have a little
cone shaped protrusing, the condensor is probably bad.  If the
points surfaces are smooth and opening and closing properly, the
coil should be getting the "signal" to fire.

>5.  If it is the coil, what's a good replacement?

	There are two basic types of coils on most older
vehicles.  The first type uses an external resistor in
the wire from the coil to the points to reduce the voltage
from 12 to 6 volts.  This keeps the points from burning or
arcing.  The second type coil has the resistor build into
the coil so you don't have to worry about the points getting
too much voltage and burning.  If this second type coil is
on your vehicle and goes bad, you may crank the engine over and
over and over without it starting, but as soon as you let off
the starter button, the engine will try to fire.  But, since the
voltage is too low, it usually will hit only about one time and
die.  Then you crank and crank, and when you let off, it tries to
fire again.  This is usually a signal that the coil is bad if you
have this second type.

	I'm sure there are many on this list who are much more
up on such things than I am.  I'm just a shade tree mechanic.
Maybe they will answer you.

Larry Matthews
n4ptk@infoave.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:19:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael K. MacDonald" <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: Land Rover Models

I would like to locate some scale models of Series Land Rovers.  Has any one
out there ever located any, or know of a model company from which I can get
a catalog?  I don't mind ordering from overseas if I have too, but I'd
prefer to be able to work with a company in the US.

Thanks. Mike MacDonald
        '57 Series I

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 01:37:54 +0100
From: The Big Guy <guru@manhole.ow.nl>
Subject: Series I value in the US

Hi,

Could anyone out there give me some tip as to what the value of a Series 
I may be? What I saw was a Series I SWB originally produced under license 
by Santana (I think). This vehicle is perfect in every way! No rust, no 
oil leaks (I suspect it must be empty ;-) ), perfect straight body, paint 
and "interior". It's all original right down to the updraft (I think) 
carb. The only downside is that there is no top or upper door panels. The 
engine on this SI is so clean you can eat from it. IMHO it's museum 
quality (other than not being 100% LR in name).

So, any takers? All help or advice would be appreciated. In summary, this 
is one of those cars (OK, spank me with a wet noodle for calling a LR a 
"car" ;-) ) which you would only drive on a sunny Sunday afternoon with 
00.0% chance of rain.

Thanks in advance,
Cheers,
Todd

------------------------------

Subject: Voltage Regulators
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 17:35:29 -0500
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Hi All-

You may recall my voltage and current problems last week.  Well the 
culprit was apparently a bad voltage regualator.  I've got a new one 
coming quickly from Rover's North, as I hope to have everything up and 
running by this weekend.  Our local rover club is having our first big 
off-road rally!

I was wondering if I need to polarize the voltage regulator to make it 
function properly?  Someone mentioned to me that I would have to do this, 
but I was only aware that sometimes the dynamo needs polarizing (like 
when you switch it from neg back to pos earth or vice-versa).  If this is 
necessary, how would I go about doing this properly?  I hate to ruin any 
more electrical equipment.  I'm on my second dynamo re-build and a 
replaced voltage regulator (although I think that the first was the cause 
of the other's problems).

Thanks for the info.  BTW, I have a '65 SIIA 2.25L Diesel, if that 
matters.

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*           co-founder -   "Arkansas Land Rover Association"            *
*                 1965 Series IIA 88" Diesel - "Buford"                 *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 19:50:54 -0400
From: "George S. Syzdlowski" <GeorgeEsq@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Series I value in the US

The Big Guy wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> Hi,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Cheers,
> Toddhave an extra top if you need one...g.s.s.

------------------------------

From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Series I value in the US
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 19:57:38 -0400

Todd has something out of the ordinary:
> Could anyone out there give me some tip as to what the value of a Series 
> I may be? What I saw was a Series I SWB originally produced under license

> by Santana (I think).

Interesting. According to James Taylor's updated book "Land Rover 1948 -
1983 The Leaf-Sprung Models" Santana started production for public sales in
November 1958 with SII 88 models. Could this be a Tempo (West German built
under license with modified bodywork and Bosch electricals) or a Minerva
(Belguim built with a steel body.

> This vehicle is perfect in every way! No rust, no 
> oil leaks (I suspect it must be empty ;-) ), perfect straight body, paint

> and "interior". It's all original right down to the updraft (I think) 
> carb.

I'm not aware of any LRs which used updraft carbs (an updraft carb hangs
from the manifold). I believe all the 4 cyls used downdraft carbs, first
Solex, then Zenith. Any idea what the history is and how it wound up in the
US? Does it have any identifying plates? Could this be a Champ or Gypsy?

> The only downside is that there is no top or upper door panels. The 
> engine on this SI is so clean you can eat from it. IMHO it's museum 
> quality (other than not being 100% LR in name).

It could be of more interest if it is in fact an obscure factory built LR
varient and not a run-of-the-mill SI. Value on the other hand is the amount
of cash someone is willing to exchange for it. Impossible to establish in
advance for rarities. Quinton might want to comment on the value of LWs in
the US.

Regards,
David Cockey
 

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 20:02:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: crossing the border?

>>Which is how many peso's per vehicle?

Oh, No!! And I've been stocking up on Marlboros in the flip top box!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" ******For Sale*****
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 08:46:09 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> 8:1 2.25 sparkplugs:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> applications book - I believe it's an RN14YC or the like....
>                     aj"Thanks to Ben Smith for this info"r

I would rather repalce them with RN11YC. I'm told RN10YC would be better, 
but they are not available, whether that's only here or what I don't 
know, but the 14 range would seem to hot. 

regards,
Con Seitl 
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:18:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re(2): DC area Meeting!

Hi Spenny, Bill, Dave, etc

Where's this all taking place?

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 21:37:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Warn Distributors

Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 03:51:29 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Help! No Spark! No Go!

Anthony,
 Warn distributers are common on the aging british cars however there is
a flexable ground wire attached between the plate which holds the points
& the body of the distrubuter.  I have found this wire to be the cause.......
   

Rob,
          I have yet to find a Warn distributor on any British cars, regardless
of age. However, they make a darned good winch.

Regards,   Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors, again
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 07:52:26 +0200 (MET DST)

Sorry,
but I think you all got victims of my faulty vocabulary yesterday. 
With 'sleeving' I ment the process of grinding/sanding/.. two flat
surfaces by rubbing them against each other with a sort of paste, so
they will mate perfectly.
It sounded similar to the German word for this but when I got home the
dictionary told me something different. Still didn't find the right one,
though. This proofs again that you'll never learn the important things 
like repairing Land Rovers at school. ;-)
BTW Tom, the 100 bucks where just for the labour to fit the new
nozzles I already have to the old holders and adjust the opening
pressure and spray pattern.
I think will do the fitting myself with the help of our institutes
mechanic and let them just do the spray job.

Hope I didn't get on your nerves too much...
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 06:58:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: 2.5 question

Those someone know when they stopped production of 2.5 normal aspirated diesel?

Did the defender come out with the TDI immediately or was the 2.5 first 
installed?

Reply becuase it is urgent

Thanks
Geoffrey

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: 2.5 question
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 08:32:30 +0200 (MET DST)

Geoffrey,
| Those someone know when they stopped production of 2.5 normal aspirated diesel?
I'm not sure if they went on with the production in 1992 when the TDi came.
But they defintely continued the 2.5 na. Diesel for quite a while after
the came out with the 2.5 TD, mainly for the military. Brumml was built
in 1989 and still has the 2.5D while the civilian version already had
the turbo.

| Did the defender come out with the TDI immediately or was the 2.5 first 
| installed?
The first 90s/110s still had the 2.25 then they dropped in the 2.5D, then
the 2.5TD. In 1992 (or was it 93?) LR came out with the Disco and the TDi
and the 90/110 was renamed Defender.

Hope this helps a bit,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 03:28:15 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: 2.5 question

Those someone know when they stopped production of 2.5 normal aspirated
diesel?
I'm not sure if they went on with the production in 1992 when the TDi
came. But they defintely continued the 2.5 na. Diesel for quite a while
afterthe came out with the 2.5 TD, mainly for the military. Brumml was
built in 1989 and still has the 2.5D while the civilian version already
had the turbo.
 Did the defender come out with the TDI immediately or was the 2.5 first
installed?
The first 90s/110s still had the 2.25 then they dropped in the 2.5D,
then the 2.5TD. In 1992 (or was it 93?) LR came out with the Disco and
the TDi and the 90/110 was renamed Defenender

The Discovery was introduced in 1989.  In 1990 the 90/110/130s were
renamed Defender and became available with the TDi.  The first year
90/110s came with the old 2.25 petrol and diesel.  In 1984 the 2.5 was
introduced.  In 1986 the turbo diesel was introduced.  The 2.5 turbo and
normally asperated were droped when the TDi came out, but the normally
aspirated diesel still remained available for fleet orders only.  I
think the 2.5 diesel was offically dropped in 1994 when the 300 Tdi came
out.  All of the new XD Defenders supplied to the military come with the
TDi.

Rover On,
David L Glaser                     '94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu               '94 Discovery, Teal

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 09:22:20 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: diesel injectors, again

>With 'sleeving' I ment the process of grinding/sanding/.. two flat
>surfaces by rubbing them against each other with a sort of paste, so
>they will mate perfectly.
I think the word you want is "lapping",Franz.Although why any
lapping should be necessary is beyond me...:-)

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: diesel injectors, again
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 10:37:43 +0200 (MET DST)

| I think the word you want is "lapping",Franz.
Thanks, Mike.

| Although why any
| lapping should be necessary is beyond me...:-)
That's why I asked. This Bosch guy said the injectors would leak
between the new nozzles and the holders if they hadn't been lapped.
May be he just wanted to do it 300% right - typical German attitude :-(

Cheers,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: rthomas@clear.net.nz
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 21:10:21 +1200 (NZST)
Subject: Land Rover mailing list.

rthomas@clear.net.nz

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 11:45:22 +0200
From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be (philippe)
Subject: leaky disco

Kerrie complained about her 'black' driveway:
sorry Kerrie but a Discovery is still a Land Rover...  

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'81 lightweight.

------------------------------

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