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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 97 07:16:58 EST
Subject: Re: Zenith Dieseling?

>cured the hesitation problem I previously posted on but now 
>have a new problem.  I'm getting a fair amount of dieseling 
>after shut off (1-3 seconds worth).  Any ideas on solving 
>his?

Handbrake on, (it works, right?) gearbox in first, and very gently slip the 
clutch as you shut the ignition off. this will stop the engine from 
rotating. 
Either that or try retarding the timing, or running higher octane fuel. My 
Weber equipped 2.25 will deisel that almost without fail if I use anything 
less than 93 octane. This with decoked block and pistons, and static timing 
set at TDC. Also make sure you don't have an intake leak somewhere.

later
DaveB.
72 Series III SWB "Green Car"
Arlington VA
Ask me about ANYONE...nobody touches my baby but me!!

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 08:25:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Military Trailers

John: Sorry, I dont know about the Tenn. trailer sales, but there is a guy
near Akron, Ohio selling M416 1/4T trailersfor $329. He advertises in the
local Truck Trader. I dont have one handy but if you need a phone number let
me know. I'd be glad to help a fellow Birmabrite Bro'.
 I bought mine a few years back (not from him) and have been very happy with
it - except for the lack of dropping tailgate. Its so nice and clean I hate
to contemplate cutting it up. Maybe when I ve shoveled enough sand and mulch
out of it I'll reconsider...
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 14:43:51 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Paul <P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl>
Subject: Re: Turbo run down.

At 22:05 6-04-97 +0930, you wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>Carlos
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
>Morphett Vale 
>South Australia
>Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

Dont over do it !! mindt the fuel cost !!  ( and the environment )   :-(

Paul,
the Netherlands
D90 1982

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 09:02:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Tailgate quandry...

Hi Everyone...

    I have a quite interesting problem... I have a 1961 88 SW and also a 109
pick-up (for parts) and one day decided that I would put the pickup cab and
tailgate on the 88. Well guess what, the cab fit perfectly (cept for not
having the required spacer) but the tailgate was too wide for the opening on
the 88 by about 3/4 of an inch! I had figured that all the tailgates were
interchangeable so I called Rovers North and talked to Lanny, he confirmed
that all tailgates that he has seen have been the same size. So I toss the
tailgate in the back of my pickup and drive down to see them, unfortunatly
Lanny or Charlie were not working on Saturday but I did show it to one of
the guys down there (sorry forget his name). He said that it had definetly
had modifications done to it but none that looked to have changed the width
of it. I think that the 109 is a SIIA and was wondering if anyone has
seen/heard of this before? 
    If I can make it to the Maple sugar rally this weekend I will bring it
with me for you to see Dixon.

Keith

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 09:09:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors...

On Sat, 5 Apr 1997, JDolan2109@aol.com wrote:
>New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
>I'm just curious. Has anyone ever seen a radar detector installed in a series
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I'm just curious. Has anyone ever seen a radar detector installed in a series
>LR?

Jeff Berg has got one in his...not a permanent mount, but the wiring is there.  
I usually just figure that by the time the cop figures out what the hell he's 
looking at, I'm long gone. (gotta love the V8) Three years, 60,000 miles and 
only stopped for speeding once.  Watch, I'll get my license revoked today...

Rgds,

_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 09:29:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: SUs on a LR

On Sun, 6 Apr 1997, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> carb (for sale) and a TR3 intake manifold with twin 3/4 inch SUs (which I'm
> keeping). I noticed a interesting similarity.  I put the intake ends of the
> manifolds together.  The intake ports of the two manifolds line up.  Some
> of the mounting holes line up. 

	My understanding is that there is an early and a late manifold for
	the TR-3.  Both are nearly exactly the same, but one is spaced
	slightly differently.  One works on the 2.25, the other just
	misses.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 07:56:52 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: needatyre

Hello the List,
        I was just wondering if anybody might have a new (old spare?) BFG
A/T 265 75 R16 lying around that they might want to turn into some quick
cash?  Just thought that some of the Defender owners who have changed to
M/T's might have just such a beastie hanging out in a dark corner
somewhere.  Thanks in advance.

Never pet a burning dog.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 10:00:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Army surplus trailers

John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA asked:

>Does anyone remember the name and phone number of the chap near Monteagle,
>Tennessee that sold the US Army surplus trailers for less than $500us? 

The name of the dealer is Sam Werner.  Address is Box 327, Tracy City,
Tennessess, 37387
Phone (615) 592 3601  Fax (215) 445 9848.  If you need driving directions
get back to me.
Old Sam has a huge collection of surplus vehicles rusting away around what
was a lumber mill in the last century.  He has no Land-Rovers, but does have
the two versions of the trailers the US Army used before Hummers.  He also
has half-tracks, a tank or two, and a interesting little vehicle called the
"Mighty-Mite", which is smaller than a jeep or LR 88 and has an air cooled
aircraft type engine.  It's an interesting place.

Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
1973 Series III  88"

------------------------------

From: "Thorsten Klein" <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de>
Subject: Q: Scottish Highlights, no LR content 
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:39:54 +0200

Hello all

I am visiting Scotland from the 26 april 96 until 4 mai 96.
For this short trip I need a few visiting tips from the insiders. Mainly we
want to see great nature, historical sites and of course one or two cheap
but good LR partshouses.

Many thanks in advance

Thorsten

P.S.: unfortunately we are traveling with a friend's Opel Kadett GSI

Thorsten Klein
Mainz, Germany
kleit001@goofy.zdv.uni-mainz.de
SIII Lightweight <Scotty>

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 15:30:05 +0000
Subject: tyres again....

> >Erm.  I was under the impression that the 16 inch 
> >rims fittted as standard in th UK were teh same for teh SWB and the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Nope, the LWB rims are 5.5 inch wide as opposed to 5 inch, and have a
> different offset.

So are there any problems fitting 7.50s to a normal 90? Surely you 
dont have to get new rims????????
 
>Are you sure??? I've been told 25 psi front, and 25-30 psi rear!!

I was horrified when I saw the pressures recommended in the manual 
for my 90. I felt a lot happier at more normal pressures when I 
fitted 205R16s. If you run em low, they'll wear out the edge blocks 
very quickly, but hum nicely as you drive along......

> >get M&S pattern tyres in this size - no pure road patterns :( So I
> >am 
>I thought you could get road pattern on a 205, what about maybe a
>mild M+S'er....

No. They are all M and S. with a blocky tread rather than continuous 
ribs. So hte blocks heat up more and they'll wear quicker. I havent 
been able to find a pure highway rib pattern in 205R16s. If I could, 
I'd stick with this size.  What folk in 
LR circles mean when they refer to a 'pure road' pattern are these M 
and S dual purpose things as opposed to tractor tyres :(

>My mate is on 7.50s but he advised changing to LWB rims. I'm not keen

Why is this? Are 7.50s dangerous on normal SWB rims? There seem to be 
enough out there running em.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 10:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net>
Subject: Frame repair information needed

Well, I'm getting ready to dive into frame repairs, footwell replacement,
door post replacement on the Series III.  Can anyone tell me what gauge
steel the frame is?  Is it 16 or 14?  Also, can anyone give me advice about
what type of wire to use in my MIG welder?

Any information is appreciated!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA
XO of the VMFA 323, virtual sister sqaudron to the "Death Rattlers"
The Downeast Land Rover Club:  http://www.agate.com/~rovah/
2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover(Smedley), 1966 Series IIA(Pondoro),
   1974 Series III(Swambo)

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 11:33:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: crossing the border?

<<SOLAROS and ROW is going through great pains to make
 arrangements with the Mexican consulate to allow a convoy of 4x4's to
 travel as a group on a specified route.  >>

Which is how many peso's per vehicle?

Gerry Elam
PHX AZ 
'63 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"
'95 Disco "Great White"
'97 XD (no name...yet)

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 11:46:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Radial Rover R/T

Thanks to the Listers for the response. Looks like I'll go ahead with the
purchase. The local tire company will have them for me by tomorrow, at $535
the set of four, tax ,title, out the door. Not cheap by any means, but you
pays yer money etc. . I like to deal local for tires as if anything goes
wrong I can bitch 'em out up close and personal. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:57:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Q: Scottish Highlights, no LR content 

On  7 Apr 97, Thorsten Klein wrote:

> I am visiting Scotland from the 26 april 96 until 4 mai 96.
> For this short trip I need a few visiting tips from the insiders.
> Mainly we want to see great nature, historical sites and of course
> one or two cheap but good LR partshouses.
New (oem) parts:
Leng Landrovers, Juniperbank, Walkerburn, Peeblesshire, EH43 6DE
(Tel: 01896 870 519) (open: 9am to 5pm, Lunch 12.30 to 1:30)
A68 to Walkerburn and then ask...

Second-Hand parts:
Alex Linday, Axwell House, Westerton Road, East Mains Industrial 
Estate, Broxburn. (Tel: 01506 854 827) (open: 10am to 6pm, approx)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 13:02:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Address in Aspen?

Subject: Address in Aspen??

On Sat, 5 Apr 97, Marc Rengers asked for "an address of a Land-Rover driving
terrain or something, or Land-Rover Rental in Aspen.  We are planning to go
to the states this summer and we're trying to rent some LR's and go
driving."

Marc:

"A Land Rover driving terrain with an address" must be a european concept.
Here in Colorado, Aspen IS a good address for LR driving terrain.

Aspen (population 5000) is located in the heart of the Rocky Mountains at an
altitude of 2500m.  Although it is not obvious today, Aspen had it's origin
a century ago as a gold and silver mining town.  There are many old mining
roads, unpaved mountain passes and forest access roads in the area.  From
the Aspen office of the US Forest Service you can get a map of the White
River National Forest.  This will show more back roads and trails than you
will ever have time to explore.  Local bookstores will also have guides to
jeep roads in the area.  You will NOT lack for challenging back country
driving in the aspen area.

There is a Land Rover dealer in Aspen at 109 Airport Business Center, Aspen
CO 81611, telephone 970-920-9888.  I do not know if they rent Land Rovers;
you might contact them.  They might be able to suggest a few good back
roads.  Other makes of 4X4 cars can certainly be rented in Aspen, although
you should do this well in advance.

For additional information, call or write: Aspen Chamber Resort Association,
425 Rio Grande Place, Aspen 81611, telephone 970-925-1940.  Ask about jeep
tours (as they are called here).  Aspen is a very popular year round holiday
destination, they should be able to send you loads of information.  Aspen
may even have a website; this might be worth a search.

There is a Colorado Land Rover Club, the Solihull Society.  If you are not
able to get the information you need, let me know directly.

Regards,

Paul Donohue
Secretary, Solihull Society
1965 LR Dormobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 13:45:20 -0700
From: Nils Frederiksen <newsnet@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Turbo cool-down

Carlos G. Garcia wrote: 

>I own a 1997 Defender and I love it.  But I have a question that the
>manufacturer's manual has not answer it clearly.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Could you or some one else answer me this particular question based on
>real facts?

In addition to my SIIa 88", (LR content) a trio of SAAB Turbos have lived 
in my driveway over the past 15 years.  For each one, I have used the 
same procedure:

After PARKING (Coming to a complete stop and allowing the engine to 
drop to normal idle) I have always allowed approx. 30 seconds to 1 
minute to pass, to allow the turbo to "spin down" to a more reasonable 
speed.  
On summer days that's also about the same amount of time that it takes 
for the electronic radiator fans to cool the engine down and shut off.

I also try to allow a similar amount of WARM UP TIME at the start of 
any driving, and avoid using a lot of throttle until engine and oil 
temperatures are up to normal.

This extra bit of care, along with regular 3,000 mile oil changes, has 
allowed the current SAAB in my driveway to hit 175,000 miles on the 
original turbo, and it shows no signs of "giving up" in the near future!!

Hope this helps, and ROVER ON!

Nils Frederiksen

------------------------------

From: Willyz@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 13:40:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: New D110 Pick-up for sale

I'll try to keep it short!

New Defender 110 V8 pickup. For sale as a complete kit for reassembly. All
parts are brand new and genuine. Rolling chassis is assembled. Truck features
a galvanized factory chassis, carbureted V-8 and LT 85 5-speed gearbox. HD
non-leveled suspension. Factory tow kit and wiring, bonnet mounted spare,
Moorland cloth interior, roll down windows, Air conditioning, radio prep
package, power steering and power brakes. Vehicle is red and in the U.S.

Sort of my own CKD!  This is not an April fool's joke  :-)
Registration is the responsibility of the buyer. Pictures to be available
soon.

$29,000

Bill Kaszer
Manhattan, Kansas
Willyz@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 19:20:50 +0100
From: A Tall Daft Stranger <stevehobbs@enterprise.net>
Subject: Re: tyres again....

In message <bulk.25660.19970406190245@Land-Rover.Team.Net> you wrote:

> From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
> Are you sure??? I've been told 25 psi front, and 25-30 psi rear!!

Quoting from the Series3 service manual:
88" on 6.00 or 7.50 x16 tyres:
Front 25psi, back 30

88" on 205x16:
front 25, back 35

> My mate is on 7.50s but he advised changing to LWB rims. I'm not keen on 
> going to 7.50's as it'll increase my turning circle, which is bad 
> enough!

I don't know for sure whether the front axles are exactly the same on LWB and
SWB, but I've just fitted Wranglers instead of HiMilers on my LWB, and have
been able to wind the lock stops almost fully out. I haven't measured the new
turning circle, but is much better. This was possible becasue the Wranglers
don't have those huge buttresses around the edge.
I suppose that the LWB rims are offset further outwards to give more clearance
than the SWB ones.

Hope this helps...

-- 
Steve Hobbs.
.. BREAKFAST.COM Halted... Cereal Port Not Responding.

------------------------------

From: KerrieLee@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:35:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Leaky Discoveries

I am having a terrible time trying to get the leaks stopped on my 94
Discovery.  Transmission and brake fluid.  

I have had my vehicle into the dealer at least 10 times over last 3 months.
 They claim to have replaced all possible seals, but it is still ruining my
driveway. 

Is this something I have to look forward too?  Having a leak fixed and the
next day it starts somewhere else? 

HELP. If you've any suggestions, I would greatly appreciation them.

Thank you for your time

Kerrie

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:41:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SUs on a LR

There are two varieties of TR3/2 heads. The "high" port type and the "low"
port type. The High port kind is the most common as it fits all the TR3/4/4a
family after TR3 commission number ts13052e ( about 1957) ALAS this is the
one that DOESN'T FIT! You need to find the early one and they are quite rare
now because most folks have converted to the newer style head and the old
parts are LONG gone.
Rgds Quintin Aspin

1958 Tr3a
1968 Tr6
AND LOTS of Rovers :-)

------------------------------

From: Willyz@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 16:12:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: New D110 Pickup for sale...........

I'll try to keep it short!

New Defender 110 V8 pickup. For sale as a complete kit for reassembly. All
parts are brand new and genuine. Rolling chassis is assembled. Truck features
a galvanized factory chassis, carbureted V-8 and LT 85 5-speed gearbox. HD
non-leveled suspension. Factory tow kit and wiring, bonnet mounted spare,
Moorland cloth interior, roll down windows, Air conditioning, radio prep
package, power steering and power brakes. Vehicle is red and in the U.S.

Sort of my own CKD!  This is not an April fool's joke  :-)
Registration is the responsibility of the buyer. Pictures to be available
soon.

$29,000

Bill Kaszer
Manhattan, Kansas
Willyz@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 16:47:41 -0400
From: uwxc <wpc@caloccia.net>
Subject: test

Please ignore 
	thanks, 	-Bill

	[ please post only ASCII text to the list. HTML is removed]

<tag> foo bar <tab> <sick html deleted>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 17:35:44 -0400
From: uwxc <wpc@caloccia.net>
Subject: test two

this is a test, please ignore

	[ please post only ASCII text to the list. HTML is removed]

foo<bar> foo<bar> foo< bar
bar> foo

------------------------------

From: RSTES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 19:03:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

for sale,series I land rover.has been partially taken apart for
restoration.this rover is complete and a good candidate for restoration.iam
selling it for $2500.00.i also have a 1995 discovery for sale which is really
clean.please 'e' mail me if interested at:rstes@aol.com.happy rovering to
all.      ron s.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 17:55:36 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Paint by Numbers?

I need some basic info on how to go about painting my Sll.

The thing has about three coats in varying colours.  The paint on the rear
door looks a lot like ordinary house paint.

What kind (brand name) of chemical can I use to strip the aluminium?  What
kind for the galvinized bits?  What sorts of primers should I use?

I'd just as soon go the foam roller and brush route so I don't have to worry
about creating a neighbourhood fog but I wonder whether anyone would know of
a marine or otherwise brushing paint that would be close to a Limestone White.

And finally, can I use a random orbit palm sander for the wet sanding or
should I stick to endless manual rubbing?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:51:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Help! No Spark! No Go!

My son has Lulubelle ('70 IIa) out in Oregon.  Lu's down for the time 
being with a case of bad electricals, and I'm back here in Wisconsin 
unable to fiddle with this & fiddle with that until she's running again.  
So I need some sound advice and some basic information to pass on to a 
newbie mechanic.  Here's the situation:

Before she died, she ran erratically - hard to start & difficult to keep 
going.  She just received a brand-new head a few weeks ago, and at that 
time the mechanic said that the distributor plate, the one that the 
points & condenser are attached to, was loose.  Besides its normal timing 
advance rotation, it could be moved from side to side inside the 
distributor housing.

When Kyle, my son, cranked the engine & checked for spark, he got none.  
When he pulled the coil wire at the distributor cap he still got no spark 
from the wire to ground.  So here are the questions:

1.  How do you test for a bad coil?
2.  How do you test to see if the coil is getting the signal to fire?
3.  If the coil fires when the points open, and the gap determines the 
duration of the spark, how exactly does this work?  You'd think it would 
fire when the points closed.  What does the condenser do?
4.  With the ignition on, all three wires (not the high voltage one) on 
the coil register 12 volts to ground (Lu's got a 1 bbl Weber, so there's 
the third wire from the coil to the fuel cut-off plunger).
5.  If it is the coil, what's a good replacement?  The one Lu has now was 
put on 15-20 years ago, and it was a Bosch from a VW I think.
6.  Are distributor parts available, or is this a 
pull-it-all-out-and-stick-in-a-whole-new-one repair.

Looking forward to your group wisdom.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 21:38:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Toe adjustment SerIII

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 23:50:17 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Realignment of SIII steering

Oliver Gottlob wrote:

  > Date: Sat, 05 Apr 1997 17:25:18 -0800

  > From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

  > Subject: Realignment of SIII steering

  >

  > Anyone out there got any tips for correct relaignment of

  > steering/tracking on an SIII?

Adrian,

   The old timers method of toe-in measurement/adjustment works well
and can be done quite easily on a reasonably flat surface.
 
1. Jack the left or right tire (tyre) until it just clears the floor.
2. Rub a piece of white chalk along the center of the tire, 
making a mark 1/2 inch (13mm) wide around the entire 
circumference of the tread.
3. Using a scribe or other stiff sharp object supported on 
an oil can or block of wood, carefully rotate the tire (tyre)
one revolution to create a thin line that represents the center
of the tire (tyre) relative to the spindle. The location of this line 
on the tread is not as important as making sure it is true to 
the spindle.
4. Carefully lower the jack, beeing careful not to smear the
scribe mark.
5.  Repeat the above for the opposite tire (tyre).
6.  Gently rock the vehicle to settle the suspension and allow 
the tires (tyres) to squat (no translation).
7. Using a helper on the "dumb end" of a measuring tape, measure
the distance from the scribe line on the front of one tire (tyre) to
the same point on the opposite side. About midway up the tread
is correct. If your helper is smarter than you, let him/her have the
"smart end". Note the distance.
8. Using a helper, make the same measurement at the rear of 
the tires (tyres). 
9. Compare the measurements. 
10. The difference between the two measurements is the amount of
toe-in or toe-out. 
 
This archaic method is Very Accurate and indicates actual toe.
No mirrors, lasers, hydraulic lifts, or MONEY  required. 
Care taken in the above steps assures long tire wear. It helps
if the wheel bearings are tight and the swivel pins and railcos are
in reasonable condition. The wheels should be pointing straight 
ahead and the rear tires (tyres) blocked if attempting this on 
uneven ground. 
No responsibility is accepted for confusing inches with Metric (SI).   

  Regards,     Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 12:00:39 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Help! No Spark! No Go!

Sanna@aol.com wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> My son has Lulubelle ('70 IIa) out in Oregon.  Lu's down for the time
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
> Middleton, WI  53562
> 1-800-373-7226some tip on no spark 1: take the small wire off the terminal at the back 
of dist. and with ign on flash to grnd. if the coil wire sparks to ground 
coil is ok. if not check coil and wire to it. 2: Connect test light 
between the small wire and its erminal crank engine light should flash 3: 
Points do not control DURATION only time of spark.The spark happens when 
the magnetic field of the primary wiring in the coil collapses. Condensor 
reduces sparking at the points . 4: Ok 5: almost any coil for a 12volt 
operation with a balast resistor.6: not much hope this helps  John 
Cranfield

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 12:01:49 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Help! No Spark! No Go!

Sanna@aol.com wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> My son has Lulubelle ('70 IIa) out in Oregon.  Lu's down for the time
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
> Middleton, WI  53562
> 1-800-373-7226heres a few tip that may help some. 1. take the small wire off the 
terminal at the back of the dist. and with ign on flash it to ground. 
There should be spark at the coil wire. If not suspect coil and\or its 
wiring. 2: connect a test light between this wire and its terminal and 
crank engine the light should flash.3: The points do not control DURATION 
 only the time of spark.The spark occurs when the magnetic field in 
primary circuit of the coil colapses. Condensor cont

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 00:12:11 -0500
From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net>
Subject: Rovers North Newsletter Error!

To all who may have received the April 1997 Rovers North newsletter, my
name and phone # are listed in error at the end of the Belize trip article
as a source of information regarding the trip!  I have recieved phone calls
from Arizona, Connecticut, and Colorado since the newsletter was sent out.
       While it is true that my wife and I were planning on making the
trip, I am unable to take the time off from work.  If someone(Mark Ritter,
can you help me!?) can mail me with a name and phone # of someone who CAN
give these interested folks the information on the trip, please do!  I will
put the information on the club answering machine so that people can
re-direct themselves.  I don't want anyone to miss out on the trip because
I can't give them the information!

Thanks!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323th Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO"

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Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 03:51:29 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Help! No Spark! No Go!

Anthony,
 Warn distributers are common on the aging british cars however there is
a flexable ground wire attached between the plate which holds the points
& the body of the distrubuter.  I have found this wire to be the cause
of no spark & even odd running.  You can easily test it with a test
light but it can trick you by seeming to be good when at rest but it
fails when the distributer advances.  The advance flexes the wire which
could open the ground to the point plate.  Without a ground no spark.

Regards, 
Rob Davis_chicago

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