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Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 07:16:53 -0500
From: blainh@accent.net (Blain Hughes)
Subject: Land-Rover Paint Codes

I've been a lurker on the net for the last few months and have really
enjoyed the information and the experiences. I am seven days into a frame
over on a 11a. I have given myself the month of April to have a running
vehicle. I'm going out this am to remove the bulk head and seat box and
will be taking it to a panel beater this afternoon. I will keep everyone
posted on the adventure. However since time is of the essence and I want to
be doing something while the panels are being repaired other than running
brake lines and rebuilding the hydraulics, I would like to know the paint
code for Poppy Red?
I'm replacing the frame with a galvinised Marsden frame.

Cheers Blain

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 14:24:07 +0200
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@huslak-sandviken.se>
Subject: Re: It has srrived at last! '97 Disco V8i ES Auto, What a  beauty!!!
	[ please post only ASCII text to the list. HTML is removed]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii ]

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Turbo run down.
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 22:05:56 +0930

Carlos
The reason for the run down time on the Tdi (and any other turbo diesel) is
that if you let the engine run for some 10 to 30 seconds, the turbocharger
can slow down under normal oil pressure. This means the turbo bearings are
lubed as it slows down, creating less problems with were etc.
In Australia we sell turbo timers that keep the engine running for a
preselected time after you turn off the ignition. It is a strange feeling
to lock up your vehicle and walk away from it while the engine is still
running. Nevertheless its believed to be a wise move to improve turbo
longevity.
My Defender and Disco manuals talk about a 10 second run down, but 30 seems
more like the accepted time. I have a friend with a Mitsubishi Pajero
(Shogun) who lets hers run down for 10 minutes after any trip.
Hope this helps
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 07:35:31 -0700
From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: GPS Beaconing/Belize Trip

At 10:48 AM 4/5/97 -0800, Jon Haskell wrote:
:For the Land Rover trip to Belize this July, non-amatuer radio operators
:will be able to view the expeditions progress in real-time via several
:Internet Websites. My wife will be able to watch our progress on a
:computer here at home. I will post the internet addresses when I have 
the
:connections confirmed.

A reader responded: 

 Yes, but will the Mexican government allow you take and operate this
 equipment inside mainland Mexico?  Until recently they did not even 
allow
 amateur CB equipment.
-----------------------------------
As a follow up, I did not have any problems crossing the border on my 95 
trip. I crossed at Nuevo Laredo, which was a new and not busy crossing 
near Laredo. The Discovery has a large HF antennas and several smaller 
vhf/uhf antennas so there was no question of hiding the equipment. 
Furthurmore, I have a reciprical Radio License from Mexico (XE2/KB9CML)  
and am awaiting my V31 Belize License. 

If anyone has any related comments regarding recent crossings, please 
make a posting. 

On a unrelated topic, has anyone else noted poor AM reception on the 
Discovery radio. It seems mine has an inordinate amount of ignition noise 
 making listening to my favorite conservative talk show host difficult. 
Is this a common trait or do I have a problem?

Jon Haskell
Indiana Land Rover Owners Association
1994 Discovery 80,000 miles and going strong (knock on wood)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 15:03:27 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Trip to Tanzania, any comments?

Matthew Loxton wrote:
> We will be going in the S-III and a Tdi Defender 110. Maybe also a brace of Rangies, and a solitary diesel Land Cruiser.
> Cheers
> Matthew

Well at least there should be enough of you to tow the Land Bruiser
home!

Regards

Paul Oxley
"into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine
http://www.adventures.co.za
"AfricanAdrenalinDotCom" Sign up for adventure here...
http://africanadrenalin.com

------------------------------

Subject: Michelin
From: robot1@juno.com (Mark E Hardig)
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 09:51:12 EDT

>I wonder if they'll maintain separate tire identities or if tread
patterns
>will cross brands, etc. Maybe now we'll see more Michelins in the US? I
hope
>so. 
Maybe they'll start sending the GOOD tires to the US. I have had two sets
of Michelins in my life and found them both to be horrid beyond belief.
I'm willing to give them a third chance (where off-road tires are
concerned) but I'll never put another set on a passenger car.  A 600$ set
of tires shouldlast more than 15k miles. The Bargain basement tires that
followed the michelins in both cases lasted more than 60k miles.
Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 08:54:23 -0700
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Land-Rover Paint Codes

I would like to know the paint
> code for Poppy Red?
> I'm replacing the frame with a galvinised Marsden frame.
> Cheers Blain

http://www.crl.com/~cs/ROVER/PAINT.HTML

Hope this helps,
Regards,
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 08:23:04 -0700
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors...

JDolan2109@aol.com wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> I'm just curious. Has anyone ever seen a radar detector installed in a series
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> jim  '61 88" "Nicky"
> LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!

Yes mine

Tom

72 88 SIII  sometimes doing 35-40 in a 25 zone.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 08:36:43 -0700
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum PSP (PAP) Trivia (Camel Trophy)

> Benjamin Allan Smith                          Benjamin.Smith@sv.sc.philips.com
> Pencom Systems Administration---> EDS/Philips          1972 Land Rover SIII 88

Ben, 

I'm off for another trip at sea this one lasting 9 weeks. Could you
please remove me from the mendo-recce digest. 

We will be upgrading the communications on the ship, and will install a
V-SAT communications system.In the not to distant future I may be able
to receive the digest onboard. Time will tell. Right now I can't,they
complain about band-width and air time.

Regards and thanks in advance.

Tom Spoto        tspoto@az.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 16:22:48 +0100
From: Mike Cattell <mike@mikecat.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Green Lanes, Rights of Way and offroad driving

The site for all information regarding the legal rights of all users to
use the great heritage of our byways.

Includes tips for considerate use, discovering and researching
long forgotton routes and where to find routes in your area.

Mainly for off road vehicles but will be of interest to Horse riders
and trail bikers.

Pop by, pages are updated regularly.

Http://www.mikecat.demon.co.uk/

Also links to clubs and resourses world wide.

 
Mike Cattell, Christleton, Cheshire, U.K.
http://www.mikecat.demon.co.uk/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 11:57:39 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: bfg tires

Concering the aquisition of BF Goodrich by Michelin:

>I wonder if they'll maintain separate tire identities or if tread patterns
>will cross brands, etc. Maybe now we'll see more Michelins in the US? I hope
>so.

There was a major worldwide consolidation of the automotive tire
business during the '80s. Today there are only something like five major
tire producers internationally. My recollection was that BFG and
Uniroyal merged, and then were acquired by Michelin. This happened a
number of years ago. Firestone was acquired by Bridestone, and there was
similar consolidation in Europe. In most cases the brand names, dealer
networks, etc. remain (like LR after BMW?).

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: postmaster@metricom.com
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 97 09:17:09 -0800
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="simple boundary" ]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 12:46:56 -0400
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:LRW and net

Hi all, 
There is also a reference in the LRW Editorial, and if they keep up with
similar language (which i won't repeat as there are ladies on the Digest)
they are likely to get their plug pulled by the Press Complaints
Commission.

Cheers,
Mike Gaines, Slll Lightweight, 'Wicked Wanda'
PS My neighbour just bought a clapped out Ni**an Blooper, do I move or
torch it?

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Lucas IQ Test

Joe Ankeny was seeking advice on the Lucas problems and received some
suggestions. Shorted or closed points, or a bad condenser, are good "bad
coil" mimics, as are broken "low tension leads" which might look OK  but are
corroded or broken under the insulation.  

If it ran well before the points were installed your problem is almost
certainly that the new points are grounding themselves on the distributor
plate. The points must be isolated. Check also to see that they are actually
opening and closing as the distributor shaft is turning. This can be done by
rocking the beast in 4th gear and watching the points. Or use the hand crank.
If the shafts not turning - well now youve got real problems.
Look carefully in your manual at the order of assembly. There should also be
illustration on the which way the rotor points when you reinstall a
distributor.
Good luck.
Andy Blackley 

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:34:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T

Sorry for the cross post, but I am looking for the collected wisdom of the
Listers, to whit:
I am contemplating buying a set of the subject tires for my 83 RR and am
wondering if anyone has had experience with them. They are similar in
apperance to BFG Trac-Edge and are intended for commercial or heavy duty use.
Unlike the Trac-Edge they are readily available and cost slightly less. They
have aggressive side lugs but a more closed  tread pattern in the center.
Tirerack and Dunlop have info on then on their webpages. 
I recall that someone posted a while back that they were satisfied with their
Radial Rovers, but I think they were referring to the RV, which is more
street oriented.
Any comments aprreciated.
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 11:34:39 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Zenith Dieseling?

I've been working at tuning up Mathilda and have more or less
cured the hesitation problem I previously posted on but now
have a new problem.  I'm getting a fair amount of dieseling
after shut off (1-3 seconds worth).  Any ideas on solving this?

The engines a 2.25 8:1 with a Zenith carb.  The Zenith doesn't
have the anti-dieseling solenoid though, so I'm suspicious that
that's the cause.  

TIA

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 11:34:52 -0700

> I am contemplating buying a set of the subject tires for my 83 RR and am
> wondering if anyone has had experience with them.

I bought a set a few months ago.  I haven't been off-road in them and so
far they seem OK for street use.  (A lot better than the bias ply tires I
had).

I don't know where you are located .. but be careful of shipping charges, 
The tires are heavy.  Also, someone on the list posted earlier this year
that he could get 7.50x16 R/Ts for $78 each (on the eas coast?).  That is a
very good price!!!  They cost a lot more on the west coast.

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 20:50:43 +0100
From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Subject: Truck Cab - Suite SII,SIIa or SIII

Does anyone on the list live in North Yorkshire? I currently have a 
truck cab, Dark Grey, sitting down the side on my garage. I was going to 
keep it until I got my next Landie, but my good lady is complaining 
about the space it takes up. She wanted to give it to the Rag & Bone 
men!!

Anyway, I'd rather that it went to live on a Landrover, than be taken 
for scrap, so if anybody wants it just get in touch. The only condition 
being that the new owner collects.

Hope somebody wants it..

Cheers
Mark
mark.luker@virgin.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 20:51:52 +0100
From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Subject: Truck Cab - Suite SII,SIIa or SIII

Does anyone on the list live in North Yorkshire? I currently have a 
truck cab, Dark Grey, sitting down the side on my garage. I was going to 
keep it until I got my next Landie, but my good lady is complaining 
about the space it takes up. She wanted to give it to the Rag & Bone 
men!!

Anyway, I'd rather that it went to live on a Landrover, than be taken 
for scrap, so if anybody wants it just get in touch. The only condition 
being that the new owner collects.

Hope somebody wants it..

Cheers
Mark
mark.luker@virgin.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 16:48:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: Footwells and food, well...

>Yum...I like the Garlic Shrimp, and the Green-lipped Mussels, and the... 
>and another itcher of Sangria please!

MMM, the garlic soup is amazing too -and those little baby eels sauted in
olive oil that no female I know has ever tried.  And you HAD to mention the
Sangria!

>>>Just (finally) got footwells!  AB has them for $45 for the pair -in stock 

>Glavanised? For the whole footwell, or just the bottom part? Just curious, 
>mine are already done.

Yep, and quite hefty to boot.

>>>Tip for the day:  Remove window glass before welding any portion of a door 
>frame! :->  
>Hmmm...In the market for some glass? 

No, now that side window has as much character as my windshield!  Yeah,
that's it.

I'll say it's little chips from when an elephant sprayed the truck with
gritty water...

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional      
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 16:49:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Zenith Dieseling?

I'm an advocate of the method recommended by John Muir in "How to keep your
VW Alive, a manual of step by step procedures for the compleat idiot", where
he sez put the vehicle in first gear or reverse and let out the clutch pedal
while holding the brakes. The caveat is make sure there is nothing
pathologically wrong with the truck making it diesel in the first place. In
other words; if its just that the leaky old zenith doesn't stop fuel flow, do
the above, but if you've got hot spots in the combustion chamber due to too
lean a mixture or too hot a plug, or too much carbon, or the timing's off,
solve that first.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 20:42:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Realignment of SIII steering
From: Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de (Oliver Gottlob)

> Date: Sat, 05 Apr 1997 17:25:18 -0800

> From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

> Subject: Realignment of SIII steering

> Subject: Realignment of SIII steering

> Anyone out there got any tips for correct relaignment of

> steering/tracking on an SIII?

> steering/tracking on an SIII?

> I have just removed my 2 front tracking rods to change the ball-joints,

> before doing so I measured the distances between centres so that I can

> remount the rods with the new balls according to the same dimensions -

> however, I am not sure that the tracking was perfect to begin with, a

> recent change-around of tyres revealed excess wear on the inside of the

> right-hand wheel - could this have been due to bad tracking? Or was it

> more likely the worn springs and shocks which i have now replaced? And

> why excess wear on just one tyre, why not both?

> why excess wear on just one tyre, why not both?

> Anyway the repainted tie rods are drying, and will be remounted this

> evening, so if anyone knows how to check the tracking I would be

> grateful for a few hints. I presume that it is only the tie rod which

> links both front wheels together which is critical, as the rod from the

> relay to the right-hub, and the rod from the steering box to the relay

> will affect both wheels equally.

> will affect both wheels equally.

> I have read somewhere (maybe here) that SIII 88" front wheels should

> have a 2mm toe-in adjustment - is that 2mm more space between wheels at

> the rear axle-centre of the rim, or the tyre? Where axactly do you

> measure/compare the 2mm?

> measure/compare the 2mm?

> Thanks!

> Thanks!

> --

> Adrian Redmond

> Adrian Redmond

> ---------------------------------------------------

> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)

> Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark

> ---------------------------------------------------

> telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66

> telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64

> telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46

> mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64

> mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66

> mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66

> e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk

> HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com

> ---------------------------------------------------

Hello Adrian,

I´ve a German Repair Manual (Verlag Bucheli, CH-Zug)(not Landrover) that

says:

between the middle of the track rod ends has to be 1030,3 upto 1033,4 mm

!

     I <---------------------------1030,3 to 1033,4mm ----------> I

     I                                                            I

    MMM                                                          MMM

    MMMZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZz zZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZMMM

    MMM              |                                           MMM

       \             Track rod  

       Track rod end

(nice diagramm ?)

hope this helps ?

The rod from the steering relay to the wheel-hub has to be 782,6 to

758,8 mm

(write they).

They write then: (German! sorry I can´t translate this. If it is

nessecery it can be translated next week.)

[...]Fahrzeug auf eine ebene Fläche abstellen und Räder in

Gradeaustellung bringen.

Fahrzeug einige Male vor und zurückschieben.

Spurmaß in Höhe der Vorderadnaben an der vorderseite der Felgen ansetzen

und auf Null stellen. Ansatzstelle der Messstiftemit Kreide an der

Seitenwand der Reifen  mit Kreide kennzeichenen.

Fahrzeug um eine halbe umdrehung der Räder nach vorn schieben und das

Spurmass an der Rückseite der Felgen ansetzen. Die Meßstifte müssen

wieder an die mit Kreide markierten Stellen kommen.

Messergebniss ablesen. Falls die Eistellung stimmt sollte das Mass an

der Rückseite 1,2 bis 2,4 mm groesser sein als an der Vorderseite [...] 

(Verlag Bucheli, Zug, Schweiz No: 380 381 382)

I´ve a fax, and can fac this to your, also.

Any expirience with changing the upper bearing of the steering wheel ?

My is broken !

Cheers 

Oli

> 1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "Stinker"+"Laster" civil -Daily Driver- >

> 1976 Landrover 109 Petrol "Zugmaschine" ex R.Army  -in pieces-    >

> mailto:   Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de                              >

> fax: (+) 49 2923 7276  fon: (+)49 2923 7295                       >

> AMPR BBS: DG5DBV@DB0YAB.#NRW.DEU.EU                               >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 13:44:36 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re/2: GPS Beaconing/Belize Trip

At 07:35 AM 4/6/97 -0700, Jon Haskell wrote:
:>:For the Land Rover trip to Belize this July, non-amatuer radio operators
:>:will be able to view the expeditions progress in real-time via several
:>:Internet Websites.
:>
:> Yes, but will the Mexican government allow you take and operate this
:> equipment inside mainland Mexico?  Until recently they did not even 
:> allow amateur CB equipment.
:-----------------------------------
:As a follow up, I did not have any problems crossing the border on my 95 
:trip. I crossed at Nuevo Laredo, which was a new and not busy crossing 
:near Laredo. The Discovery has a large HF antennas and several smaller 
:vhf/uhf antennas so there was no question of hiding the equipment. 
:Furthurmore, I have a reciprical Radio License from Mexico (XE2/KB9CML)  
:and am awaiting my V31 Belize License.

 Crossing the border is no test as to being allowed to take sophisticated
 HF and GPS equipment into the interior of Mexico.  Apparently the rules
 for a 100 mi zone from the US border (as well as Baja) are different
 from the 'interior'.  Although the police near border areas may be used
 to Gringo transgressions of Mexican law, the police and army in the
 interior could have a more hard line view.  Last year a group of 3 Unimogs
 was turned back a few miles into Baja for not looking like 'standard
 tourist vehicles'.  SOLAROS and ROW is going through great pains to make
 arrangements with the Mexican consulate to allow a convoy of 4x4's to
 travel as a group on a specified route.  It has already been mentioned
 that this convoy may require an army escort across the Yucatan peninsula,
 as there has been bandito activity reported there.  Imagine the
 nervousness of Mexican officials to have such sophisticated vehicles
 bristling with antennas and HF, satellite GPS, and computer equipment
 fall into the wrong hands, much less the possible loss of tourist lives
 in defending their toys.

 Michael Carradine
 VP, LROA

                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 
    

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 15:35:07 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 23:50:17 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Realignment of SIII steering

Oliver Gottlob wrote:

  > Date: Sat, 05 Apr 1997 17:25:18 -0800

  > From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

  > Subject: Realignment of SIII steering

  >

  > Anyone out there got any tips for correct relaignment of

  > steering/tracking on an SIII?

  >

  > I have just removed my 2 front tracking rods to change the
  ball-joints,

  > before doing so I measured the distances between centres so that I
  can

  > remount the rods with the new balls according to the same
  dimensions -

  > however, I am not sure that the tracking was perfect to begin
  with, a

  > recent change-around of tyres revealed excess wear on the inside
  of the

  > right-hand wheel - could this have been due to bad tracking? Or
  was it

  > more likely the worn springs and shocks which i have now replaced?
  And

  > why excess wear on just one tyre, why not both?

  >

  > Anyway the repainted tie rods are drying, and will be remounted
  this

  > evening, so if anyone knows how to check the tracking I would be

  > grateful for a few hints. I presume that it is only the tie rod
  which

  > links both front wheels together which is critical, as the rod
  from the

  > relay to the right-hub, and the rod from the steering box to the
  relay

  > will affect both wheels equally.

  >

  > I have read somewhere (maybe here) that SIII 88" front wheels
  should

  > have a 2mm toe-in adjustment - is that 2mm more space between
  wheels at

  > the rear axle-centre of the rim, or the tyre? Where axactly do you

  > measure/compare the 2mm?

  >

  > Thanks!

  >

  > --

  > Adrian Redmond

  >

  > ---------------------------------------------------

  > CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)

  > Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark

  > ---------------------------------------------------

  > telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66

  > telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64

  > telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46

  > mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64

  > mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66

  > mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66

  > e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk

  > HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com

  > ---------------------------------------------------

  Hello Adrian,

  I´ve a German Repair Manual (Verlag Bucheli, CH-Zug)(not Landrover)
  that

  says:

  between the middle of the track rod ends has to be 1030,3 upto
  1033,4 mm

  !

       I <---------------------------1030,3 to 1033,4mm ----------> I

       I                                                            I

      MMM                                                          MMM

      MMMZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZz zZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZMMM

      MMM              |                                           MMM

         \             Track rod

         Track rod end

  (nice diagramm ?)

  hope this helps ?

  The rod from the steering relay to the wheel-hub has to be 782,6 to

  758,8 mm

  (write they).

  They write then: (German! sorry I can´t translate this. If it is

  nessecery it can be translated next week.)

  [...]Fahrzeug auf eine ebene Fläche abstellen und Räder in

  Gradeaustellung bringen.

  Fahrzeug einige Male vor und zurückschieben.

  Spurmaß in Höhe der Vorderadnaben an der vorderseite der Felgen
  ansetzen

  und auf Null stellen. Ansatzstelle der Messstiftemit Kreide an der

  Seitenwand der Reifen  mit Kreide kennzeichenen.

  Fahrzeug um eine halbe umdrehung der Räder nach vorn schieben und
  das

  Spurmass an der Rückseite der Felgen ansetzen. Die Meßstifte müssen

  wieder an die mit Kreide markierten Stellen kommen.

  Messergebniss ablesen. Falls die Eistellung stimmt sollte das Mass
  an

  der Rückseite 1,2 bis 2,4 mm groesser sein als an der Vorderseite
  [...]

  (Verlag Bucheli, Zug, Schweiz No: 380 381 382)

  I´ve a fax, and can fac this to your, also.

  Any expirience with changing the upper bearing of the steering wheel
  ?

  My is broken !

  Cheers

  Oli

  > 1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "Stinker"+"Laster" civil -Daily Driver-
  >

  > 1976 Landrover 109 Petrol "Zugmaschine" ex R.Army  -in pieces-
  >

  > mailto:   Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de
  >

  > fax: (+) 49 2923 7276  fon: (+)49 2923 7295
  >

  > AMPR BBS: DG5DBV@DB0YAB.#NRW.DEU.EU
  >

 Dear Oliver,

Thanks for the advice on the track rod alignment - it seems (from my
very poor German) to be an almost direct translation of the Danish
workshop manual - maybe Peter Hirsch can confirm this - despite the fact
that he is Austrian, his German is probably better than mine - he sent
me the same instructions in English I think.

The measurment "between the middle of the ends of the tie-rod" can be
useful - where do you measure the middle? Is it the centre of the ball
joint - for example the centre of the grease nipple on the back of the
ball joint? with such tolerances the "middle" must be fairly accurate!

Regarding the steering column bearing - I have changed three of these in
different land rovers - it is a simple, but fairly time consuming job -
here's a recipe -

1.    Remove steering wheel
2.    Open instrument panel, place at side, tidy cables so that you can
get at the column.
3.    Dismount ignition switch and steering lock
4.    Loosen clamp around steering column on engine side of bulkhead
(next to brake servo)
5.    "rotate" steering column outer shell (apply WD40 liberally to free
it) so that it moves away from steering gear
        until it comes free and can be removed from steering column in
the cab. The old bearing (or bits of it) will follow.
6.    Use a length of pipe to force old bearing out.
7.    Clean column shell (maybe paint?) lubricate bottom end with copper
grease (makes it easier next time) and remount
8.    Tighten clamp (reverse of #4)
9.    Mount new bearing (lubricate outside with copper grease - next
time you may be able to remove it without dismantling)
10.    Reassemble the whole lot.

The above procedure takes about an hour - depending on how easy it is to
loosen the column shell - plus of course at least two hours to check and
repair the electrics, lights, wipers which now fail to work when you put
everything back together,

Good luck, hope this helps.

--
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data      +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)      +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 18:10:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Military trailer source in US

Does anyone remember the name and phone number of the chap near Monteagle,
Tennessee that sold the US Army surplus trailers for less than $500us? 
TIA
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Apr 1997 17:01:18 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith Dieseling?

James Howard wrote:
snip
> > I've been working at tuning up Mathilda and have more or less
> > cured the hesitation problem I previously posted on but now
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> won't.  It has the silly solenoid, too.  Trouble is, when the idle is set
> below 800 rpm, the winkers don't.

Back to square one
I have to report some revised news on the problem.  In checking under the
hood I realized that I'd left the PCV plumbing disconnected.  I'd disconnected
it to better get at and adjust the carb. settings.  The result was no hesitation,
good idle but dieseling.  Upon reconnecting the PCV plumbing, the hesitation
problems reappear after a 10 minute or so run to get the engine hot but the
dieseling ceases.   Application of full choke solves the problem, but barely.  

I've revisited the timing adjusting it while hot with a strobe.  But that
hasn't changed things too much.  It's currently set at about 500 rpm which 
is as high as it'll go.  I tried varing the distributor angle and finally 
settled on the smoothest idle which coincided with 500 rpm or so at about 5? 
degrees.

If the PCV is disconnected the idle increases dramatically (no rpm
measurement.  If I plug the PCV plumbing with my finger the idle also
drops dramatically.  

Should I bypass the PCV valve with straight tubing??
Why would a large PCV leak allow dieseling?  Is the airflow eased to
the extent that it draws small amount of gasoline from the carb.?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:09:45 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: I'm failing my Lucas IQ test

>Don't overlook the horrible. Does the rotor turn when you crank teh
>engine? If not, you most likely have a broken timming chain.
>Tom Rowe

Also don't overlook the blindingly obvious. I once spent a long and
extremely frustrating afternoon trying to get my LR to fire. I changed
points, condensers, coils, and just about everything else imaginable. I had
just given up, was going to get a beer, was looking in my pocket for money,
and found the rotor, which I had wisely placed in my pocket earlier for
safekeeping! Other than that, I would say no voltage to the coil, or a
short between the points and ground somewhere. It might be worthwhile to
clean the points in some sort of solvent, as I have heard that they are
sometimes "gummed up" when new. Also, try opening the points with the
ignition on, if there is a spark, that could indicate a bad condenser. Two
bad condensers in a row would be unlikely, but not unheard of.

>Oh yeah...one more question If I(hypothetically) pull out my distributor
>and replace it how do I tell if it is 180 degrees out of phase when I
>put it back?

The key on the bottom of the distributor is offset slightly to one side, so
it should be impossible to put it in backwards, unless there is an
extraordinary amount of wear.Hope this helps,

Braman Wing
1966 IIA 88"

------------------------------

From: "Brian Willoughby" <lndrvr@ldd.net>
Subject: Sighting
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:46:43 -0500

For those who keep track of such things, I just went to see the new Val
Kilmer interpretation of "The Saint."  In it, Russian henchmen drive about
in a black Range Rover 4.0 SE.  I don't think I have to tell you what
becomes of it (hint:  Mr. Templar lights a match.)

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 22:09:20 +0000
Subject: tyres and stuff!

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

 Quoting: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>

 >The rectangular light refered to is indeed for a dual-brake system. 
 >It tells you when you have no fluid left in your system, and try to 
 >use the brakes!

Yeah, i traced it to the master cylinder and servo!!

 >A note on the orange lamp: It is either heater plugs or choke.

Nope, it's a trailer indicator relay flaher!!

 >(another Scottish player..)

Too right!!! :-)
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  3/4
                                   \|/
                                  (@ @)
_______________________________o00_(_)_00o___________________________________

    ... Fidonet: 2:259/36.12        Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com   ...
                 2:259/69.51
_____________________________________________________________________________

... "Bother "... said Pooh, as Roger Cook knocked on the door.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 22:11:47 +0000
Subject: tyres and stuff

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

Quoting: dbobeck@ushmm.org

 >I have 6.00 x 16 Avon Traction Mileage tyres, on SWB rims. What pressure 
 >should they be at????? 

 >This info canbe found in your the SIII Repair Operations Manual, and maybe 
 >the owners manual. Correct tyre pressure for an 88 with 7.50x16's is 25 
 
I don't have either, just the Porter's restoration and Haynes manual, 
neither mention actual pressures! :-(

I don't have 7.50's either!!

 >front and 30 rear, or 25 rear for softer ride, or emergency flotation 
 >pressure something like 12 psi.

I'll go for 25 psi all round! Cheers!

 >If I wanted to change to radials with a road bias, would I be better 
 >getting LWB rims, or just road tyres to fit these rims??? (All the tyres 
 >are good, and I canna afford to change them now!) 

 >Hmmm...you want "radials" with a road "bias". You are funny.
 
WHY???? I know what I mean! I've been into cars since I could hold a 
spanner, and I know the difference between cross-plies and radials. 
Radials are quieter, more economical, last longer, don't tramline like 
cross-plies, the only thing is the sidewall is more prone to damage than 
c-plies. For my Landie use, radials are better, AND I like a road bias. 
Tyres CAN be a compromise you know, some tyres are biased to off road, 
some road use!
 
 >I think you 
 >mean a road "tread pattern". Just get them the right size for your rims, 
 >and fit some radial style tubes if you're rims are original.

What you are suggesting is exactly what I suggested, just you are 
calling it something different! I was originally asking whether 205 x 
16's would fit ok on a 5" SWB rim!!!

 >I have indicator bulbs in the dash, however when I start to indicate, a 
 >yellow lights glows momentarily, then goes out. It's in the small centre 
 >console type bit! Any ideas why???? 

 >Could be the choke warning light, clean the sender connection on the front 

Nope, I have a diesel. However I found out what it was, a trailer 
indicator relay flasher!

 >Also in the centre console bit, there is a blue rectangular light. There 
 >is a sticker above it which is only partially legible, something like 
 >"....rake". I presume brake, but it never lights. Any ideas????? 

 >Probably the brake pressure warning light, is your vehicle equipped with a 
 >dual brake system? US SIII's were not bleesed with such devices, but we 
 >know they are out there. If luck is with you it will remain unlit.

It is a dual system, and here's hoping it stays unlit!!

 >>  On a slight hill, muddy path, 1st low, it jumped out of gear a couple 
 >>of times. I put it into 2nd low and it was fine.

 >A sure sign you'll need to rebuild the box eventually, if you wantt to do 
 >any real off-roading. Popping out of first on a steep descent could find 

Mmmmm... I rather think, and hope, that it's the detent spring. It 
doesn't grind, but slips out of first quietly. The PO never used 1st at 
all!

Thanks for the advice!
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  4/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1980 ser III 88" Diesel                       ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... SCD 1742      No member of the Space Corps should ever report for
... active duty in a ginger toupee.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 22:26:24 +0000
Subject: tyres again....

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

Quoting: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>

 >Lenny,
 >Welcome to the list, it's good to have some more Scottish based

Thanks, there are a few Scots in here!!! :-)

 >Erm.  I was under the impression that the 16 inch 
 >rims fittted as standard in th UK were teh same for teh SWB and the LWB? 
 >So you could simply drop 7.50s onto teh stock rims. Am I mistaken on 
 >this?

Nope, the LWB rims are 5.5 inch wide as opposed to 5 inch, and have a 
different offset.

 >I have 6.00 x 16 Avon Traction Mileage tyres, on SWB rims. What
 >pressure should they be at????? 
 >I vaguely remember 35 front and !!45!! rear - for fully loaded and 35 
 >rear for unladen.
 
Are you sure??? I've been told 25 psi front, and 25-30 psi rear!!

 >If I wanted to change to radials with a road bias, would I be better
 >getting LWB rims, or just road tyres to fit these rims??? (All the
 >tyres are good, and I canna afford to change them now!) 

 >You can fit 205R16 radials or even 7.50s to the stock rims. I went for teh 

I presume you have to adjust the wheel stops though??? What about the 
turning circle???

 >205s and the tyre life sshot up to 40-50k from 15k! But you can only
 
That's good!

 >get M&S pattern tyres in this size - no pure road patterns :( So I am 
 
I thought you could get road pattern on a 205, what about maybe a mild 
M+S'er....

 >trying to wear all my 205s out at teh same time, then I change to 
 >7.50s (the speedo will need a new drve gear cos of teh taller tyre 
 
My mate is on 7.50s but he advised changing to LWB rims. I'm not keen on 
going to 7.50's as it'll increase my turning circle, which is bad 
enough!

 >profile) cos then I have the choice of everything from dumper tyres to 
 >pure road-rib pattern truck tyres. Go for teh 7.50s cos you can get 
 >any type of tyre you wwant.
 
I suppose so, I really want to cut out tyre noise and tramlining!
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  5/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1980 ser III 88" Diesel                       ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... "Dead?  But i've been only gone for 2 minutes!" * Kryten
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 22:35:20 +0000
Subject: My Landie is named!

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

I just had to tell you about my new Landie. Everyone says it will name 
itself, and it has!!!

When I picked it up, a few weeks back, it was parked in front of the 
seller's wifes new Fiat Almera. As I wasn't used to the gearbox, (first 
Landie) I accidently sorta.... well, i put it into reverse instead of 
first...... and let the clutch in.......and......... it sorta "lurched" 
backwards narrowly missing the sellers wifes new car!!!!!!!

Oooops!!! No damage done, except to my pride. Luckily the seller wasn't 
watching and I drove away, head bowed! So, the Landie is duly named:

                                "LURCH"
                                

He He he...... as everyone said, once you live with a Landie, it'll name 
itself. 

I'm settling into it, or maybe it's settling into me. It's been 3 weeks 
now. I've driven it everyday to work, towed my caravan away for the 
Easter weekend, let the wife drive it, (maybe a bad move as she liked 
it!), my dogs love it to bits, and I'm smitten!! Ok, it's slow, noisy, 
primitive, etc. but I love it!!!!!!
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  6/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1980 ser III 88" Diesel        "LURCH"         ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... Jimi Hendrix' modem was a purple Hayes
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 21:37:49 +0000
Subject: Tyres and lights...

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

 >From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
 >Subject: ANS For Lenny Warren's queries

 >Hi Lenny, 

Hi Mike,

 >Welcome to the world of Land Rovers, I,m not familiar with the tyres you

Glad to be here, I've been dying for a Landie for AGES!!!!!

 >quote, but run em at 25-28psi  won't be  far wrong. Your yellow light that

That seems to be the consensus all round! :-)

 >comes on is the indicator repeater for trailer indicators, mine always
 >flashes on once  as you indicate. The other light is for the brakes as you

Yeah, funnily enough I towed a caravan at the weekend and this is exactly what
it is for, brilliant!!

 >surmise, its a warning that something is badly wrong  if it comes on it
 >means you have lost hydraulic pressure or vacuum or both.   The book

Aaaaah, not fun then???

 >says:"Stop immediately and ascertain the reason for the warning." 'Course 
 >what it dousn't say is that you can't stop immediately even if the brakes
 >are working so how you accomplish this if they ain't....

Har har har.....

 >Have fun with it

I'll try my best, cheers!!
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  2/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1980 ser III 88" Diesel                       ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... Kryten: Frankenstein was the creator -- not the monster.  It's a common
... misconception, held by all truly stupid people.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Apr 97 22:47:06 +0000
Subject: blue smoke???

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)

When I start my diesel ser iii, I get a cloud of blue smoke, also on the 
over-run. It's fine when it's running, but if you let it idle and then 
rev it, you get blue smoke.

It's obviously oil in the combustion chamber, but do you think it's 
valve stem oil seals???? I've never had a diesel before, but I know they 
are oil burners and the oil is used to lube the cylinders, but is this 
normal???

What about the MOT??? It's not black smoke, my injectors seem to be ok.

Any remedies without taking the head off??? I've heard of an oil 
treatment that is meant to recondition oil seals. My cousin swears by 
it, but has anyone tried it????

Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  7/4
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1980 ser III 88" Diesel        "LURCH"         ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... Lister: That's rich, you know, coming from Miss Yo-Yo Knickers.
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 23:34:42 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: LRO et als

Dixon wrote:

>...Be interesting to see how that bit develops)  Both mags intend to up
>the NA content.  Be interesting to see how they persue this

Talked to Carl Rodgerson at length on the AOA tour.  He said that LROi is 
going to get very much larger in the near future, and with more devoted to 
the NA and other overseas markets.  He also did a bit of market research, 
quizzing all on what parts of the mag they liked/didn't like.  

Carl has a quick wit and a wry sense of humor.  You'd like him, Dixon.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 21:04:48 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: SUs on a LR

I have been doing some house cleaning.  Among the things I have been
shufling around was a Land Rover series III intake manifold with Zenith
carb (for sale) and a TR3 intake manifold with twin 3/4 inch SUs (which I'm
keeping). I noticed a interesting similarity.  I put the intake ends of the
manifolds together.  The intake ports of the two manifolds line up.  Some
of the mounting holes line up.  A TR2-4A intake manifold should be very
easy to adapt to a 2-1/4L Land Rover engine.  The steering box on a LHD LR
is in the way of the rear SU.  But, a right hand Drive LR should be a
natural for a dual SU conversion.. The Triumph and LR engines are close to
the same size so jetting should be close.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

Medium & large format photography, 1960 Land Rover 109,  1961 Triumph TR3A

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 21:38:19 -0700

> Can't you just go to your friendly neighborhood discount tire store and 
> have them do the work?  That way, no shipping charges ;-).  Although,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> compared to what you pay for decent car tires even $90 incl. balancing & 
> mounting would be a bargain anytime, IMHO anyways. ;-)

I don't think you can get Dunlop R/Ts for $90 in the SF Bay Area, much less
the balancing and mounting.  Plus, if its going on a Series, remember you
have to add for the radial tubes.

Because it is not a stock item, many friendly neighbourhood discount store
won't order them.  Some didn't even have them listed their tire books (even
though they are listed on the Dunlop web site).  One discount store quoted
$128 each!  Another discount store told me I would have to pay shipping or
wait a month since he said there were no more R/Ts (in my size 215/85R16)
on the west coast.

I ended up buying mine from one of the more knowledgeable chains
(WheelWorks in Concord -- which just got a good plug on the mendo_recce
list) for $100 each and then had my friendly neighbourhood truck store
(non-discount) install them. I also had them put in radial tubes, which
shouldn't be necessary for the Rangie owner who first brought up this
thread.  I tried to get Michelin tubes but, despite calls to Michelin and
just about every Michelin dealer in the SF East Bay (and even Safari Gard
that sells the XCLs), nobody could/would order them.

I would have let WheelWorks install the tyres but for the fact that the
existing tyres were so bad I didn't want to drive all the way there.  Plus
I have the impression that WheelWorks don't install too many tube tyres and
I wanted to make sure it was done by an outfit that does this sort of work.

Frank

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 22:55:36 -0600 (MDT)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text ]

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Dunlop Radial Rover R/T
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 22:21:42 -0700

> I didn't mean any old discount tire store.. I mean Discount Tire stores,
the
> outlets of Discount Tire Direct (http://www.tires.com).  Or try Tirerack
> (http://www.tirerack.com).  Discount Tire beat any deal I've ever brought
> them for high performance tires for instance.

Tirerack has the R/Ts (my size) for $91 each but shipping for 4 tyres is
$100.  They don't have R/Ts in the western states warehouse (located I
think in Reno).  They told me I should try and get them local to save on
shipping.

Frank

------------------------------

From: "Thorsten Klein" <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de>
Subject: Re: R/C Rovers
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 09:45:00 +0200

Here is the address:

robbe Modellsport
GmbH & Co. KG
Metzloser Strasse 36
D - 36355 Grebenhain

Tel: 06644-87-0
Fax: 06644-7412

I have telephoned with them. They have not an american importer at the
moment but you can order the kit directly from them. I don't know what it
should cost it for you, but at my toy dealer they want 530 DM plus 130 DM
for the additional pack

Hope this helps

Thorsten

------------------------------

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