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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:26:20 -0800
From: "Christopher D. Van Decar" <vandy@mail.enterprise.net>
Subject: Bonnet Spare

I have the spare on the bonnet of SloMo-Shun VII, my "94 D90.  It looks
quite tasty!  If anyone wants more details, e-mail me and I'll send you
them.  I also have some pics of the beast with the spare mounted up
there.  I would be happy to mail them to those interested or someone who
could scan and put them in a site or something!
Cheers!
Chris Van Decar
'94 D90 SloMo-Shun VII
'94 Kawasaki ZX-9R (no name except YAHOOOOO!)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 08:10:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Locking hubs/IIa

Re: Hub levers:

Those can be made fairly easily - they're nothing but a bit of full-hard
1/8" aluminum or the like.

Use one of the broken ones as a pattern and go for it.

               aj"Got the same damn hubs....and hate 'em!"r

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:22:42 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Fire ext.
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii ]

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 13:26:39 +0000
Subject: help fitting electronic ignition to 2.25 petrol engine

* This message contains line-art, you may need to change your font *

I have just aquired a set of electronic ignition bits, with the idea 
of fitting them to my land rover.

Of course, I have no wiring diagram, nor did I get to see how it 
disconnected from the donor engine :)

The unit is a "Crysler Electronic Ignition" box, with two numbers 
printed on the black box: 3874020 and 3338.

The wiring is as follows:

--
b| White/black                         ---
l|------------->?       ?>-------------|w
a|             Blue/Orange             |h
c|-------------------------------------|i
k| Orange/Black                        |t
 |-------------->?                     |e
 | Orange                              |
b|-------------->?                     |
o|             White                   |b
x|-------------------------------------|o
 |                             link-|  |x
--                 brown/white    |----|
                   (60a)-------|  |w   ---
                        |      |  |
                        |   |-------|plate
       LUCAS 2MC        |   |-------|capacitor
          --- brn/wte   |
 (earth)--| |-----------O------>?
          ---           |  r/w (60a)
       capacitor        |
                        |
                        |red (60a)
                  ?>-----

--
D| orange
i|-------->?
s|
t|------------->?
.|orange/black
--

(end of pretty picture)

My guess is that the Orange and Orange/Black wires join from the 
black box to the distributor

However, I've no idea which of the White/Black or White/Blue wires 
goes to the coil - nor what the other wire is for (ignition switch?).

Likewise, does the 60amp Red come straight from the battery, and if 
so, what does the 60amp Red/White go to (it's part of the loom, so it 
must be important somehow!)

If anyone can help with info to wire this thing up, plase get in 
touch.  If there is a wiring diagram that could be copied and sent to 
me, I would me most greatful...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:51:04 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: supplier experience -P.A.Blanchard

A lot of people in North America are interested in experiences with
ordering parts directly from the UK.  There are real savings to be had if
you happen to be going there and can hand carry them back with you.
Otherwise be shure your quote includes the cost of shipping.  SHipping can
be very expensive if you are in a hurry.  So before you compare prices of
parts from a UK source, with your local LR parts supply house, be sure that
you are comparing AT YOUR DOOR PRICES.

I just made my first purchase from a company called:

P.A. Blanchard & Co.  They specialize in ex-government M.T. spares, surplus
stores and equipment.

FAX from the US: 011-44-1430-872777

I ordered two complete sets of rear 'U' bolts for a salisbury axle and one
ton rear springs (2 pounds ea). one set of front bolts, a shackle spacer
(2.24 pounds), two check straps for salisbury and one ton springs with
extended schackles (6.75pounds ea) and a bunch of shackle nuts at 0.23
pence ea.

Everything except the nuts arrived in conatiners stating that they are
genuine LR parts.

I wanted them shipped by air carrier to my front door.  The carrier handles
customs, and import duties.  In this case, shipping was a little over 60%
of the total cost of the goods.  The parts arrived at my front door about 3
days after shipping.

So far, I'm a satisfied customer.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

Medium & large format photography, 1960 Land Rover 109,  1961 Triumph TR3A

------------------------------

From: matthew_stein@gw.proctor.pvt.k12.nh.us (matthew stein)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 14:57:46 GMT
Subject: looking for Rover...

Any information on how top get a Range Rover Black Saddle Edition?
We just lost our Great Devide Editon and are looking to replace and upgrage it.
This message sent using the FirstClass SMTP/NNTP Gateway for Mac OS.
Proctor Academy
Andover, NH

------------------------------

Date: 29 Mar 97 10:57:15 EST
From: "Jeffrey B. Aronson" <76255.2146@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Daily Driver 109"

 I bought a 111,000 mile  '66 II-A 88" SW  for a daily driver and, over the past
6 years, have put another 130,000 miles on it while continuing to use it daily.
I also had little money (still the case) but was willing to what was necessary
to keep the car in reasonable shape. Most of my trips are of the 1-4 hour each
variety. In order to get paid, I must show up for my assignment - no show, no
dough - regardless of weather or conditiions.

I don't agree that LR's were not intended for daily use (although they're
certainly not the most economical things for highway driving), but they were
designed to be maintained. Above all else, you must be willing to do the basic
maintenance and repair work - or willing to pay to have someone do it - and pay
attention to the car. If you're not so inclined, then a Series Rover is not for
you for daily use.

The needs of a daily driver are somewhat different than those of a weekend
warrior,  collector, or classic car hobbyist. You need a car that is safe, runs
reliably, stops surely,  and with reasonable comfort (heats, leaks, seats. etc -
still, it is a Series Rover). Cosmetic appearance is good for the ego, but if
taken too far, only assures the Rover will look good on the back of the tow
truck  Restoration shops often aim for a different market and may not spend your
funds in the directions you need most. I have never dealt directly with the firm
you mentioned, but the very fact they're talking about a "hybrid" type of car -
an engine that's not original to the pre- '74 Series III, a diesel (they're
tough but they require diferent skills and some specialty tools not commonly
owned by shade tree mechanics), Defender transmission and full time 4-wheeld
drive drivetrain - means their market is different than the daily driver.  It
may be a great car as a concept, but it's too uniquely constructed for daily
driving.

Example - my 2.25 gas engine has utterly stock parts. If something fails, or the
car stops, and I need parts and/or advice, i can get on the roadside phone to
Rovers North and get a telephone diagnosis and, if necessary, an overnight part
- that's assured because it's stock.  

I also prefer the II-A or III gearbox for the same reasons. Even if you had to
buy a used one as a replacement, it's a bolt on job, not a custom one. 

Older cars have, obviously, older wiring, and much of the celebrated electrical
problems of Rovers comes from age and brittle wiring, not inherent quality. If
your car has been rewired using unusual compenents, only the person who did the
original wiring will know how to repair it. If you use an original wiring
harness(es),  you can look up the schematic in the Haynes or LR Shop Manual and
track down the problem.

Jim Rosen, W. Hartford, CT, once wrote me a piece for the Rovers North
Newsletter, cataloguing what he did to make an dowdy LR a daily driver. He wrote
that he decided to replace "wear components." His list might give you a good way
to  judge a car, or to speak with specialist shops that might work on a car for
you:

Chassis - new frame [or very strong existing frame - you can replace
crossmembers, gas tank, outriggers, but don't chintz here]
New springs, shackles, shocks, check straps, bump stops
Check bulkhead (firewall) for integrity - very important
Careful check of axles and half shafts, differentials, swivel balls
Unwrapped wiring harness, and replace any suspect wiring (stock harnesses are
easy to find)
Cleaned and serviced distributor (watch for shaft wobble - it will eat points.
Easy to replace)
New generator (or fully service, new brushes, bearings, check for output)
New spark plug wiring, coil, ground wiring
Engine valve job, checked compression and leak down (for blow- by). Any recent
head will be set for unleaded fuel. (109"'s with a 2.25 petrol are slow,
particularly on the highway; 2.25 diesels are even slower; the LR 6-cylinder of
that vintage has pep, but is an even older design and parts can be a little
harder to find, Maybe that's why Renewed Traditions uses a newer diesel design
and a 5-speed).
Installed new motor and transmission mounts (he had also put in a new clutch)
Rebuilt and/or replaced all brake hydraulics. shoes and had drums turned.
New seat cushions and door seals.
Radial tires

Notice this list does not include cosmetics, or custom features. Money spent on
the surface of the car does not translate into reliability for daily use. You
can work on the surface of the car as you go along in ownership. 

The Rovers North web site includes a customer vehicle list (or you can get it
mailed  from RN). DAP in Vermont and East Coast Rover in Maine also have
vehicles on consignment. One friend here in Maine, a family who needed a 109"
daily driver, took 3 months to find their car, and had to go to Michigan to buy
it. They couldn't be happier. Their only initial problems? It was an Series III
military 109", converted to civilan sale, but had enough unique quirks that made
every initial sorting out repair a longer travail than anyone wanted. But the
Rover serves them well, on and off road, in daily use.

Be patient. There are fewer 109's but you  can find one set up for daily driver
use, one that you can repair and maintain. Good luck!

Jeff Aronson
Vinalhaven Island, ME
'66 Series II-A 88" SW
'78 Triumph Spitfire

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 11:24:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: supplier experience -P.A.Blanchard

...Just a little warning to possible overseas buyers...

Some air carriers DO NOT handle customs clearances, OR freight delivery to
your door! In Los Angeles, U.S. Customs mandates that, unless the shipment is
consigned to a freight forwarder/customs broker, the consignee (meaning, the
recipient) MUST handle the customs clearance, and pick up the shipment
themselves!

I know this can be an incinveniance to many people, especially if the
shipment is flown into Los Angeles, and you live in 29 Palms (Los Angeles
would be the closest customs port), but that's the government for 'ya. I hear
that many Customs offices are different, but Los Angeles is by-the-book.

Charles Irvin
British Airways Cargo/LAX
1962 SIIA 109 Diesel pickup
1958 SII 88 Petrol

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:06:31 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: ANS For Lenny Warren's queries

Hi Lenny, 
Welcome to the world of Land Rovers, I,m not familiar with the tyres you
quote, but run em at 25-28psi  won't be  far wrong. Your yellow light that
comes on is the indicator repeater for trailer indicators, mine always
flashes on once  as you indicate. The other light is for the brakes as you
surmise, its a warning that something is badly wrong  if it comes on it
means you have lost hydraulic pressure or vacuum or both.   The book
says:"Stop immediately and ascertain the reason for the warning." 'Course 
what it dousn't say is that you can't stop immediately even if the brakes
are working so how you accomplish this if they ain't....

Have fun with it
Cheers
Mike Gaines, Slll Lightweight 'Wicked Wanda'

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 12:35:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Just Plain Crazy

On Sat, 29 Mar 1997, Brett Storey wrote:

> Gee=85, maybe tomorrow I=92ll do the yearly changing of the motor oil or
> topping up of the gearbox, or something equally crazy.

=09Hold on lad, Spring is just around the corner... You can make it!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 13:24:08 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Lucas Anti-Theft (no spark)

I pulled the distributor on my IIA yesterday to clean it, regap the points,
etc, and when I put it back in I had no spark. At first I figured that I
must have left the rotor out or something, but everything seemed to be in
order. I fiddled with it for a while, and then opened the points by hand
with the ignition on, after that I had spark. Once it warmed up it semed
fine, but next time starting cold, I had the same problem. Again, I opened
the points, there was a spark as they opened, and then it would start. When
it was running, I had good, fat blue spark. The spark when I opened the
points would seem to indicate a bad condenser, but I replaced the points,
condenser and rotor about 2 weeks ago. Any ideas?

On another note, does anyone have any experience with the parabolic springs
mentioned in the March LRO?

Regards,

Braman

------------------------------

Subject: Conversion/hybrid question
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 97 18:27:11 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

Just a quick question to USA Landrover drivers. I know its very nearly 
impossible to import a landrover yourself if its less than 25 years old 
(for whatever reasons your government comes up with) but what if you have 
an older series LR for instance, then you convert to a coil sprung frame 
(chassis) then you ditch the 2.25 engine for a Landrover V8, then you 
change to disc brakes and spruce up the interior. Is the vehicle still 
considered to be a 25 year old Series LR when pretty much all that 
remains is the body panels, and even then you could add the front from a 
defender (to accommodate the V8) and one piece doors.

How tight are he rules or are they 'easily' circumnavigated.

Simon Ward-Hastelow
'85 110 V8

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 15:30:10 -0800
From: Guy Gadois <Guy_Gadois@bigfoot.com>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 00:46:04 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Daily Driver 109"
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii ]

------------------------------

From: dsticht@cyberportal.net
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 19:07:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: R/C Rovers

This is for the good folks in the UK. On page 36 of the April '97 issue of LROI 
there is a picture of some boys with 6 radio controlled Land Rovers. Are these 
available in the UK, how much, etc?
TIA
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:34:27 -0500 (EST)
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: Land Rover

Does this look familiar to anyone? I rec'd it after my last posting. Seems
like a pretty good scam to me...100% chash (sic) advance payment...

>Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 09:25:01 +0200
>From: vl <vl@arcadis.be>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
>so we hope to read you by RETURN
>tks a lot

David Russell
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 Series IIA SWB (runs great, just needs a new frame)
1977 FJ-40 Land Cruiser (non-running) rusted-out hulk
1996 Grand Cherokee--"I wish I were a Discovery"

http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r <---NEW stuff, just updated!!

"Intel Inside"...The world's most widely used warning label."
(unknown)

courtesy Nanther's Mac Quotes,  http://members.aol.com/twfms/macquotes.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:27:36 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Starters

John Putnam wrote:

>When I got back in and turned the key, the starter motor spun but did not
>engage.

and

>On another note...Last week I was pleased to see it flooded so I could
>drive across the temporary lake.

Statement two is the cause of statement one.  Wading in the lake has filled 
the bellhousing with water.  You've got a bit of corrosion on the Dyer gear 
(don't call it a Bendix).  The starter spins, but the centrifugal force 
can't overcome the corrosion/funk on the shaft.  Pull the starter, clean the 
shaft and lube it. Simple...no bucks.  Easy does it, a lot of lube attracts 
more funk.  (Next time, fit the wading plug.)  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:27:28 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Virginia plates

Fred Herman wrote:

>...I was told Virginia has a vintage plate rule....You then take the plate
>with you when registering your car.  The DMV does a check to make sure the 
>number is not in use....

Well, partly correct.  Virginia doesn't have any law saying that you must 
use a plate manufactured in the state's penal system...only that you have to 
have a paid-up decal and be registered.  Soooo...all you have to do is take 
in a British tag, or an antique plate for that matter and request that 
number as a "vanity" plate - the kind that usually is used to spell out your 
name, job, hobby, clever saying, whatever.  You request that number, pay the 
extra $30 a year (and they still stamp one out for you), and affix the 
decals to your 'old' plate.. Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:27:41 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Compressors

Lee Levitt wrote:

>Can anyone recommend a halfway decent electric air pump that will work
>on both house current an 12V?

Campbell Hausfield makes a portable one that will work on 12 volt, 110 volt 
or *nothing*.  It has a  self-contained gel cell battery can also be used as 
an auxillary 12 volt power source.  About $45 at Northern Hydraulics.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 20:55:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael K. MacDonald" <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I will soon be replacing the wiring harness on my newly purchased Series I
88".  Any tips from those in know about this?

Thanks,

Mike MacDonald
1957 Series I "<unnamed as yet>"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 97 05:07:50 UT
From: "JAMES PAPPAS" <roverhead@msn.com>
Subject: Yet another ISP

Hi all friends and LROs:

Due to recent hideous service from IDT, I have dropped them like a bad habit 
and temporarily hooked up with MSN.

So far so good except no local phone. So this will be temporary.

I'll repost when I finally pick one with decent service AND local phone - 
probably ATT??

Cheers
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:21:32 +0000
From: A Tall Daft Stranger <stevehobbs@enterprise.net>
Subject: Confused Series 3

I've got an Ex-RAF Series 3, built in '84.
I had to replace the front hub oil seal yesterday, so I went
to the local landy shop, asked for a seal and new gaskets, no
problem. Got the hub apart, found the new seal won't fit into
the hub. Went back to shop, with old seal to complain.
Turns out the old seal was a RangeRover style, so I got one of
those instead, and it fits perfectly!
I know the military did some strange thing to their Landys, but
that one suprised me. Are there any other known oddities I should
know about?

-- 
Steve Hobbs.
.. Sorry... my mind has a few bad sectors.

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