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Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:56:44 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Freight forwarders

May I suggest that you can get parts from overseas through the mail?

While some international parcel companies can handle the whole transaction,
you must be sure that the process will be properly arranged from start to
finish. In my experience, the good old Postal Service is often the most
convenient, quickest, and cheapest. We bring in  merchandise through the
USPS, who offer incoming air service competitive in price, speed, and
accuracy with the UPS and FedEx international services. They let you pay
customs at your post office, but about half the time, mail is passed
duty-free, which is unlikely to happen if you use a parcel service or a
customs broker/forwarder.

A word of caution, however: never, ever, ever, use U S Postal Service for
outgoing international packages. They routinely send European mail to South
Africa to be worked, because the U S Postal Service cannot legally require
employees to be literate in geography! They can't even require them to read
a map. So our government spends gazillions every year, paying the South
African government to read addresses on our outgoing overseas mail. If
you're lucky, your packages for Europe will be misrouted to Ireland, where
international postal workers are literate. In Iceland the joke on the
street is that the U S Postal Service pre-marks outgoing packages "Mis-Sent
to Ireland" because most  packages from America arrive marked that way.

  _______
. |___|__\_==
. | _ |  | --]   Ned Heite,                <DARWIN><
. =(O)-----(O)=  Camden, DE 19934          / \  / \
---------------------------------
"Baby" Series IIA 88" 2.25L petrol Land Rover
Wool Camp in Iceland:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland------------
Recent research:  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html -----
--------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:46:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: starter lube...

Sandy grice wrote-
"...Pull the starter, clean the shaft and lube it. Simple...no bucks.  Easy
does it, a lot of lube attracts more funk..."

In the current (March '97) issue of 'Pratical Classics', there is a tech tip
about using a soft lead pencil to provide lubrication for the Bend, oops,
Dyer gear. Original problem was a locked up unit, and vehicle was a Mini.
Anyone else ever use this method? That issue also has a very nice buyer's
guide on the Rover P4 as well.
see 'ya on the old road...
jim  '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs (econobox?) "Nicky"
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 08:49:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Vt's 5th season....

Just thought I'd send in a report of conditions here today. Mud is improving
daily. Average coverage of 6" of so with localized patches of 12"-18".
Rutting is fair, and still somewhat firm. Mid-week should be about optimum!

A couple of weeks ago, someone posted that OD was not suggested for off road.
In conditions such as our glorious mud season, "Nicky" often spends 10 miles
or better in low range, 2nd gear, in and out of OD only. I don't think it's
reccomendable for 'snatch recovery' type of use, but I couldn't image life
without it! (I do carry spares for its removal however...)
Happy Easter, I'm gonna go play!!!
see 'ya *in* the old road...
jim  '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs (econobox?) "Nicky"
Liliesville, Vt.
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

------------------------------

Date: 30 Mar 97 08:52:14 EST
From: "Jeffrey B. Aronson" <76255.2146@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Lucas - No Spark

Over the years with my  II-A, I've faced the following spark problems:

1. Bad condenser - it took me an hour and a phone call for help to figure it
out, but I received a faulty, new condenser. Swap condensers with your old one
and see it the problem goes away.  This sounds like the answer to your problem
as described.

A bad rotor might still permit the  car the start, but it should stumble all
over the place - if it ran at all. A bad cap could also do the same thing,
although if it is bad, you'll see carbon tracks on the inside. 

2. Junk on the points - After  carefully gapping the points, and prattling on
endlessly to an onlooker at how good I job I had done, the car wouldn't start.
It did seem to have spark if I opened the points, but that was it.  I made up a
reason why and then took a sliver of paper, sprayed brake cleaner on it, and ran
it between the ponts. That cleaned off some residue.  Then  it started and ran
fine.

3. Ground - I didn't always get the ground right on the distributor,
particularly at the pin  where the wires and plastic washers sit. Normally, when
I got it wrong, the car would not start. But once I remember it started only
after fiddling with the ponts and I found a loose ground because I hadn't
tightened the nut properly.

4. New style distributor - I now have a new style Lucas distributor, from the
last of the US Series III's (and later Triumph's) on the car, and it uses a
hooked fold in the spring as an attachment point for the ground. I had to learn
which direction to slot in the u-shaped metal fitting in order to get it to run
properly.  I also had to make certain that I used the right color point assembly
(red or blue); once I did it wrong and the car bucked and ran terribly. Turns
out it really matters. If you have this new style distirbutor instead of the
classic pointy head original, this could be your problem, too.

I'm really not one to give advice on electrics. As a kid I used to blow fuses at
home when I hooked up my electric trains. Good luck.

Jeff Aronson
Vinalhaven Island, ME
'66 Series II-A - The QE I
'78 Triumph Spitire

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 09:28:28 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Wading Plugs?, weird bolts

In a recent posting here and in a magazine I've seen mention of wading
plugs, but I'm not acquainted with them. I surmise a set of rubber plugs
that go in before entering deep water, and come out afterward. Sounds like a
great idea, but do they really work? and if so, where does one get a list of
the holes that need plugging, and a set of plugs?

Because the PO of my rover was a colony of mice, I'm missing a basic owners
manual, and I'm beginning to wonder if I should buy one. Can other folks
enlighten me here? does the owners manual contain fascinating facts like
where to fit wading plugs, or is it one of those really basic manuals that
tells you how to start an engine and what kind of fuel to buy?

Speaking of mice - I'll use a little more bandwidth to relate an
"inspirational story"- I've been restoring a '61 IIA (destined to work, not
sit & look pretty.) I acquired it from a person who had owned (stored) it in
non-running form since about 1970. The PO he got it from had trashed the
tranny. I towed it home about 7 years ago, and it sat until I had enough
money to jump into the project. So... I've completed the frame & everything
below it, and just lowered the engine & new tranny in a couple of weeks ago,
having done *nothing* to the engine except clean the outside with a pressure
washer. I put oil in the crankcase, pulled each plug & put a shot of oil in
each cylinder, and evicted the mice that had built a nest in the carb. Then
I hung a lawn-mower gas tank above the engine & ran a line to the fuel pump,
hooked up the electric stuff, and gave it a try. I turned it over about 10
seconds with the spark off, just to see the oil pressure come up, and then
turned on the spark. It immediately fired up and ran, hitting on all
cylinders. I had to shut it down pretty quickly, because of no radiator, but
I'm grinning from ear to ear! An engine that starts immediately after
sitting unused for 27 years! I think there's no doubt that this can be a
reliable daily driver! -And the oil pressure went up to 60 PSI!! Joy, Joy!,
Grin!

PS: The negative ground worked fine- thanks to the folks who gave me advice
& confidence on this question.

-NickF

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

------------------------------

From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net>
Subject: parts and tires for sale!!
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:06:41 -0500

I have got BF Goodrich MT's which saw about 15,000 miles, none offroad. 
These are the ones that came standard on the D90 in 1994.  Asking $475.00
plus shipping.

Also have two D90 door tops (sliding glass window), perfect working
condition, I never use them because I live in south Florida.  Asking
$400.00 plus shipping.

Any more information or questions please feel free to e-mail.

John
bos@bellsouth.net

------------------------------

From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net>
Subject: parts and tires for sale!!
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:06:41 -0500

I have got BF Goodrich MT's which saw about 15,000 miles, none offroad. 
These are the ones that came standard on the D90 in 1994.  Asking $475.00
plus shipping.

Also have two D90 door tops (sliding glass window), perfect working
condition, I never use them because I live in south Florida.  Asking
$400.00 plus shipping.

Any more information or questions please feel free to e-mail.

John
bos@bellsouth.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:12:02 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Wading Plugs?, weird bolts

Nick Fankhauser wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> In a recent posting here and in a magazine I've seen mention of wading
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 43 lines)]
> Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
> NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/waynec

Oil pressure at 60? Pretty good! Your basically working with an engine 
thats only 8-9 years old if it hasn't been running for the last 27. BTW, 
wading plug is on the bracket attached to your flywheel housing. Remove 
it from this bracket and screw it into the hole neext to it when going 
swimming, remove it after to let any water drain that may have entered 
from a bad seal.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 07:17:50 -0800
From: Michael McKeag <mmckeag@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Bonnet Spare

Chris Van Decar wrote:

> I have the spare on the bonnet of SloMo-Shun VII, my "94 D90.  It looks
> quite tasty!  If anyone wants more details, e-mail me and I'll send you
> them.  I also have some pics of the beast with the spare mounted up
> there.  I would be happy to mail them to those interested or someone who
> could scan and put them in a site or something!

Chris failed to mention (out of modesty or absentmindedness) that he and
his D90 appear on page 14 of the Winter 1997 edition of Aluminum
Workhorse. The bonnet-mounted spare is front and center. Nice shades
too, Chris!

Besides the photograph of the spare _on_ the bonnet, Chris' story about
the cat _under_ the bonnet is worth a visit to pg. 14 of AW for too.

-- 
Michael McKeag          Webmaster - Native Plant Society of Oregon
Portland, OR USA        http://www.teleport.com/nonprofit/npso/  
mmckeag@teleport.com    LRO - 1995 D90SW #143, alpine white

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 23:17:08 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: starter lube...

JDolan2109@aol.com wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> Sandy grice wrote-
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> see 'ya on the old road...
> jim  '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs (econobox?) "Nicky"
> LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!

I use graphite, comes in a tube , about 1 oz. Give a liberal squeeze, 
lasts for a long time. Good for door locks and "dry lubrication" spots. 
Watch out tho, its messy if you get it on yourself.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:42:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Freight forwarders

Further to the last posting on this subject...FedEx does not charge you for
customs clearances on packages they bring in, however, they will ONLY handle
their own packages (I often get calls from people, asking if they can have
FedEx pick up their packages, so they don't have to drive to LAX! Gee,
there's some lazy people out there!). UPS does charge you for customs
clearances, but the fee is minimal (about $6.00-12.00, versus about
$100.00-150.00 that a customs broker would charge), and they only handle
their own packages also. So, if you send something by air cargo, make sure
that when all fees are paid, that it's worth it. We do sometimes get ANGRY
customers, because shippers will send a $10.00 part by air cargo, all charges
collect, and by the time it gets here, it costs over $100.00!

Buyer beware.

Charles Irvin
British Airways Cargo/LAX
1962 SIIA 109 Diesel pickup
1958 SII 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Mark Ritter)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:17:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Belize??
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ben@lucent.com,Internet writes:

>Could somebody fill me in on the when/wheres of the trip?
>sorry if I slept thru any previous posts on this..
>Jan
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:22:24 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Daily Driver

The description of the Renewed Traditions vehicle sounded like a 110 with an 
S III label to me. Hardly anybody would be foolish enough to take an S III 
and do all these things to it - frameover, new engine and gearbox and 
drivetrain and axles and brakes and god knows what else. Isn't that what RT 
was accused of before they left the list in a huff: Misrepresenting their 
product? And if it is what I think it is, i.e. a D110 labeled S III, with 
maybe a few S III body parts, that might eventually mean bad news to the 
proud owner...

Caveat emptor! Or in other words: Take a knowledgeable friend along; if I am 
correct, than make sure you can afford to buy a vehicle that might be 
impounded without compensation.

As for the daily driver question per se: Quite a few people I know have 
Series Land-Rovers as daily drivers. They are as reliable as any other older 
car, they are fairly expensive to run, they don't have much in the way of 
comfort, they are slow, they have character. What was said about maintenance 
was right on the dot - do it yourself, both in order to save some money for 
gasoline and to be sure that it was done right.

Hope some of this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net>
Subject: D90 leather seats
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 15:07:55 -0500

All,
	I have a pair of D90 front bucket seats from my 1994 D90.  These are the
LEATHER seats that came from the factory as my D90 was the Beluga Black
edition.  These look just like the cloth/vinyl seats in the D90 only they
are all leather front and back including the head-rest.  the color is a
medium dark grey and would go with any color combo.  I have replaced them
with racing seats so I could mount a 4-point harness.  The seats are in
very good condition with normal wear like all leather.  The mounts come
with it and are also in good condition.  I am asking for $700.00 plus
shipping for both seats.

Anyone interested just e-mail me at bos@bellsouth.net

John

------------------------------

From: tchris@smart1.net (Velardi, Theron)
Subject: Re: Yet another ISP
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 21:14:10 -0500

if you are interested in inexpensive local and long distance service try
LDDS/Wiltel since their merger they are the 4th largest telecommunications
companies in the US Theres no annual commitment; no cost to sign up, no
monthly minimums, and no hidden charges. Their rates are .129 cents/ min
8am to 5pm, and 10.2 cents/ min from 5pm to 8am state to state any where in
the country. and instate is dirt cheep , my local was charging us between
.17 cents to .32 cents / min. in state now I pay .09 cents flat rate
24hours aday 7 days / week. For more info call Mail Boxes Etc 
203-288-5566, there is also free 1800#s with the same rates for home or
business.

----------
| From: JAMES PAPPAS <roverhead@msn.com>
| To: rro@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
| Hi all friends and LROs:
| Due to recent hideous service from IDT, I have dropped them like a bad
habit 
| and temporarily hooked up with MSN.
| So far so good except no local phone. So this will be temporary.
| I'll repost when I finally pick one with decent service AND local phone -
| Subject: Yet another ISP
| Date: Sunday, March 30, 1997 12:07 AM

| probably ATT??
| Cheers
| Jim
| Subject: Yet another ISP

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: RE: Cost of ARB installation
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 19:07:04 -0800
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I just installed a new ARB in my '70 SIIa.  As for paid help, I spent =
about $250 on labor. you might be able to get it done cheaper,  the guy =
I had do it builds rear ends for my families road racing team and had =
never seen an ARB.  I removed the third member myself ( about and hours =
work ) and drilled/tapped the required hole in it.  The compresor went =
in without a hitch,  about 2 hours.  My biggest problem was that the =
rearend guy put the air fittings in the third member housing in reverse =
and I spent a great deal of time refiiting it with the ARB in place.  If =
you have any questions about the procedure, mail me direct at either =
jdputnam@pacifier.com or jdputnam@whpacific.com.  A I would recomend =
having the ARB placed in the carriers and the back lash adjusted by a =
pro.

John Putnam

SIIa SWB, "Rhino"

Forest Grove, OR
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From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: RE: Starters
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 20:12:59 -0800
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The starter was dead before the wading.

John Putnam
Forest Grove, OR

----------
From: 	Alexander P. Grice[SMTP:rover@pinn.net]
Sent: 	Saturday, March 29, 1997 8:27 PM
Subject: 	Starters

New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

John Putnam wrote:

>When I got back in and turned the key, the starter motor spun but did not
>engage.
and

>On another note...Last week I was pleased to see it flooded so I could
>drive across the temporary lake.
Statement two is the cause of statement one.  Wading in the lake has filled 
the bellhousing with water.  You've got a bit of corrosion on the Dyer gear 
(don't call it a Bendix).  The starter spins, but the centrifugal force 
can't overcome the corrosion/funk on the shaft.  Pull the starter, clean the 
shaft and lube it. Simple...no bucks.  Easy does it, a lot of lube attracts 
more funk.  (Next time, fit the wading plug.)  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 16:54:41 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Wading Plugs?, weird bolts

Nick Fankhauser wrote:
> In a recent posting here and in a magazine I've seen mention of wading
> plugs, but I'm not acquainted with them. 

In the SIIA there's only one plug.  It's a NTP thread (I don't recall
the size 1/4? 3/8??).  It fits in the hole at the bottom front of the bellhousing

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:37:11 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: movie sighting

there is indeed a list of movies (and a little TV) at
http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Contents/index.html

If you do make a sighting please try to get
the full film name and the date produced, if possible

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 02:06:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wading Plugs?, weird bolts

>>Because the PO of my rover was a colony of mice...

I dub thy truck...(drum roll, please!)... MausHaus.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:15:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Confused Series 3

Hi Steve,
Here's a reply to one of my questions answered by David Cockley last 
week that I think you might find useful.

> > My 82' LWB is an ex-military vehicle that I would like to know a little more 
> > about. Does anyone know what this particular version LR 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> are developed from the SIII. A new hood and grille panel are fitted to
> move the radiator forward. No idea how many military versions were
> built, but civilan versions are not rare in Britain.

I'm not sure your Series III fits into this catagory, but it sure 
sounds like it. Cheers.

Reggie OBosky 
Ramstein, Germany
82' Series III (Matilda)

------------------------------

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