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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:58:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: To turn or not to turn

>turn. Most common is "the glaze" needs to be removed. The glaze is
>basically a well polished steel surface, and will return a few miles
>after turning the drums. Do the brakes stop working then? I question the
>accuracy of many brake drum lathes.

I've been in the business, I've used some of the rationalizations on
customers before. What it all boils down to is this: If you always turn the
drums and rotors, you get to charge for another operation, you get to sell
more drums and rotors, and, the biggest reason of all...fewer comebacks. No
one in the biz wants to hear the phone ring with a complaint; 'my brakes
sound funny!' 
There is some truth to the argument that fresh surfaces all round break in
better together, though. As to breaking the glaze, that can be done with
sandpaper. 
What really gets me is, around here, they insist you turn even new stuff
before using, thus removing the nice factory finish in favor of the carbide
phonograph record style scratches.
The only reason to turn a new part would be to see if it was out of round,
but that can be done with a dial guage, not a carbide tip. Of course doing
that doesn't generate another line on the RO. And if the part was shipped and
stored correctly (never on end!!) it shouldn't be out of round.
All the above is just my opinion. I never turn unscored brake surfaces. But
then I don't mind pulling them off again later. YMMV

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:28:46 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Need some info 

Hi All,
  I have seen a rolling frame advertized by "Dick Graham" for some time
now.  I have repeatedly been tempted to see if a standard Lr body could
be fitted on it.  Does anyone know more about these rolling frames which
come with 101 rims on it?  Clearly they must be ex military parts.  It
think it could be imported without problems because it has no
possibility for driving it.  Can anyone advise me about that?  I am in
the USA.  

Thanks, 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:06:54 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Sholutituk(whatever) in Toronto

Steve Stoneham wrote:
> Would someone happen to have the phone number of the gent in Toronto
> that has the filter adapters?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> vice grips or whatever.
> It came off like it was installed yesterday!

The fellows name is Paul Socholotiuk, 451 Adelaide St. West  Toronto  
Ontario  M5V 1T1   # 1-416-504-5637

Con.....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:17:27 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: To turn or not to turn

David Cockey wrote:
> Peter writes:
> > I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Regards,
> David Cockey
I don't know if this is a useful answer to your question, but I have
just had my rear drums turned to get the 109 through its Danish
inspection test - the problem was not pitting or glazing, but that the
hubs and drums were not perfectly parallel to one another, so that, when
new brake shoes were fitted and adjusted, the brakes "wobbled" due to
intermittent binding with low pedal pressure, thus causing bad braking.

First my mechanic tried fitting new drums, but this only made the
problem worse. Afterwards he paired the hubs and drums on a lathe, and
turned them to match - problem solved.

As to how the hubs/drums become out of line I have no idea, but after 22
years of good service, I suppose anything is possible.

If anyone knows the true causes of this phenomenon, I would be glad to
hear an explanation!

good luck
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
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mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Subject: Landie or Landy
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 16:18:59 -0000
From: Vic Hanna <vhanna@info.bw>

Can anyone help? We put a newsletter together for the local Land Rover 
agents and have difficulty in determining the correct spelling - Landie 
or Landy?!
95 Disco
Thanks 
Vic Hanna

---------------------------------------------------
MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS (PTY) LTD
Private Bag BR26 Broadhurst Gaborone Botswana
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +267 302586
telephone (home)		      +267 307248
fax                  	  +267 307209
e-mail			               vhanna@info.bw
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:21:02 -500
Subject: Carb Reaming Help Request

Help,
Where can I get a carb throttle shaft properly remade and rebushed?  
Joe Curto recommended "Carb Doctor" in VA, but their procedure involves 
loctiting/gluing the fabricated bushing in place and they do not remake the
throttle shaft.  I prefer interference fitting and reaming the bushing to size.
And I would like to have a new shaft made.

Am I asking too much?  Is the "Carb Doctor" method common?  Who can 
do it my way (besides myself)?  Mark    

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 8:59:24 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Perkins V8 Land Rover Diesel

Let me guess...the darn thing kept knocking the crank bearings to pieces.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:26:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Jag engines

I believe one of the British Land Rover publications recently featured a 12
cyl. Jag engined L-R:  quite a beast.   I believe, though, that the 3.8 or
4.2 litre Jag engines are just too tall to fit beneath a L-R bonnet.  I once
had a 2.4 litre Mark II Jaguar Sedan - its engine was shorter as the stroke
was reduced.  It also did it's breathing thru Solex carbs and an oil bath
air cleaner - like our Series Landies.  It might work, but there are so many
cheaper and more workable alternatives.  As I recall, in the heavy Jag it
was very torque deficient.   Those two long shiny cam covers would look neat
in the engine bay of a Landy though.....
   erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Ga.
1973 Series III  88"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 09:09:00 est
From: "Brian Hanson/EW/BNL" <Brian_Hanson/EW/BNL_at_BLNOTESMAIL@blwn0009.bausch.com>
Subject: Re: D90 stall

>I have a 1994 Red D90 with about 21,000 miles on it.  For about the last
month, it has >started to stall while idling after the engine is "warmed
up". I notice it mainly in the
>Any suggestions?
My 95 Disco does the same thing.  I've tried all different brands and octanes of
 gas with no change.  I'd recommend doing what I'm doing, bring it in to the
dealer.  There isn't much you can do yourself with these engine control systems.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 09:09:00 est
From: "Brian Hanson/EW/BNL" <Brian_Hanson/EW/BNL_at_BLNOTESMAIL@blwn0009.bausch.com>
Subject: Re: D90 stall

>I have a 1994 Red D90 with about 21,000 miles on it.  For about the last
month, it has >started to stall while idling after the engine is "warmed
up". I notice it mainly in the
>Any suggestions?
My 95 Disco does the same thing.  I've tried all different brands and octanes of
 gas with no change.  I'd recommend doing what I'm doing, bring it in to the
dealer.  There isn't much you can do yourself with these engine control systems.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:53:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Valve guide seals, 3.5 L

Dear Jim: I would like your recommendation (of that of other Listers)
concerning valve guide seals, specifically exhaust guide seals. As you may
recall I installed a high lift cam  (Isky 252) and new lifters during my
recent Holley Projection project on my '83 3.5 RR. The other valve train
components remain the same. The problem is now that on the over run from flat
out accel. a puff of oil smoke appears when I upchange, which never was seen
with the old cam. This doesnt happen during "mild" up shifts or during long
decents on hills, where classic worn valve guide wear symptoms also show up.
There is no other apparent oil burning and the oil drops about 1/2 qt. in
3000 miles, normal consumption and leakage.
I recently replaced the intake seals with GM style umbrella seals, with
little change. There are no seals on the exhaust guides. Given the high lift
cam (more rocking on the valve stem) and higher vacuum generated, and exhaust
scavenging, should  exhaust valve seals be fitted?  Any thoughts will be
appreciated.
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:54:12 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Jag engines

At  9:26 AM 3/14/97 -0500, Erik van Dyck wrote:
;
>I believe one of the British Land Rover publications recently featured a 12
>cyl. Jag engined L-R:  quite a beast.
;
The V12 Jag engined LR hybred belongs to Don Scott who is on this mail list
(Hi Don!).  Don essentualy build a wide LR around the engine fitted to a
Discovery frame.  I had the honor to ride in Don's beastie while it was
pulling a heavy load on a  main motorway.  The performance is amazing.
According to Don, the instillation is not trivial.  I think you start with
the engine and put parts around it.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:35:40 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Jag engines

Erik van Dyck wrote:
> I believe one of the British Land Rover publications recently featured a 12
> cyl. Jag engined L-R:  quite a beast.   I believe, though, that the 3.8 or
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Stone Mountain, Ga.
> 1973 Series III  88"

I remember in one of the American 4x4 magazines from years ago a man who
installed a Ferrari engine in his J**P Wagoneer, called it a Jerrari.

Tom

------------------------------

From: Dulciana@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:30:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Look out! Here comes a newbie.

Hi everyone, greetings from the old country.
I have a nasty old series3 lwb petrol, which, owing to lack of cash, had its
engine stripped and overhauled by yours truly, mostly in the yard but partly
in the kitchen.
This is the first ime I have ventured so deep into the innards of Solihull's
finest, but with reasonable care, some patience, and several minor to
moderately severe knuckle scrapes, the thing is done. New big end shells,
piston rings, valves, valve springs, timing chain and so on etc.. Now I'm no
expert, but if anyone else is thinking of a similar project I'd be happy to
share experiences.
There was discussion in earlier postings, (Jouster, I think ?), about
radiator caps and system pressure. Correct me if I'm wrong, (you will, you
will !), the problem with Landrover engines is not cooling them down, but
getting them hot enough. All internal combustion engines, as I understand,
are most efficient at, or slightly above boiling point. The purpose in
pressurising the system at all is to raise the boiling point of the coolant
n'est-ce pas?    There has also been correspondence about emulsion (white
gunk) forming in the rocker box: anyone want to try for the connection?
I suspect, that even in the hotter climes of the southern US, people are
generally overcooling their engines. My thermo controlled fan comes on so
rarely, I have to keep testing it to make sure the thing still operates. I am
not sure of being right about this, but it seems worth considering.
Thanks everyone for the best place on the net.  Bambistrangler  (Chris Baker)

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:24:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

In a message dated 97-03-14 05:39:06 EST, you write:

<< BTW, I was recently told that there are frames and 
 then there are FRAMES.  Many makers, not all of same quality?  
 Might this explain why when looking at a new galvanized Arrow 
 frame, I was surprised at how thin the box section walls felt. >>

My interest is piqued:

Are there some frame manufacturers whose frames are considered better
engineered than the Designa (Arrow) coil sprung chassis?  I assumed (probably
wrongly) that it would have been of equal strength as the Marsland galvanized
frame I bought a couple of years ago; not true?

Nate 
NADdMD@aol.com 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm">Blue Brick Rover Page</A> 

------------------------------

From: "Tim Rushton" <tim@pavilion.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Landie or Landy
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:13:54 -0000

Is there a right and wrong here? The most common spelling on this mailing
list and elsewhere seems to be "Landy", which I use. Whichever, the plural
would be "Landies" anyway.
You could always use "Rover", or should that be "Reauveur"

Tim Rushton

1978 SIII 109 ffr
http://www.pavilion.co.uk/users/tim

----------
> From: Vic Hanna <vhanna@info.bw>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> e-mail			               vhanna@info.bw
> ---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:27:08 -0700 (MST)
From: Dirk Tischer <dtischer@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: D90 Stalling

I had the same problem.  Changing revs and stalling - turned out that the
ecu had gotten damp and the connections needed to be cleaned.  LR 
replaced it under warranty.  Don't know if this is your problem, but it
sounds very similar.

Dirk Tischer
Tucson AZ

Also, to everyone who is mounting those camel trophy type bumper to
roof rack cables - I want them but how have you hooked up disconnects for
road driving?  Or moreover how have you managed with the cleanup from
pedestrian/deer accidents.... You're essentially making a 3500 lb
cheese knife.  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:18:39 -0800
From: Bruce.Curtis@Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Re: To turn or not to turn

> Peter writes:
> > I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> I'm sure there are some contrary opinions.
> Regards,
> David Cockey
Now you'ave opened a can or worms :-)

I'ave got ~~ 500,000mi of driving on 7 vehicles, one 150,000 (1973 Capri)
and have never turned a drum or rotor, why???

Well, if the pads/shoes are changed before they are metal-on-metal, you
don't operate under extreem conditions (race your vehicle, or decend Mt.
Everest on a regular basis, ...), incure some damage (pickup a rock that
gets caught and scores the drum/rotor), then there's not much reason that
the drum/rotor needs to be turned?

The only time i almost had rotors turned was on the 120,000mi pad change
on a 1973 Capri, the rotors were scored pretty bad (i.e. a few scores that
were a couple of tenths of an inch deep), had some cash flow problems, just
put in the new pads ... The first few stops were a little scary as it didn't
stop real well and loud grinding noises were herd ... But this soon cleared
up and i never had a problem up till when i sold the car at 150,000mi+

So, as the poster noted, inspect and turn only if you really need to.

Almost forgot, a good friend of mine who is a machine shop operator at
a NAPA auto parts store did mention that if you get your drums/rotors
turned to remove the glaze only that your wasting your money as this
only last for the first few hundered miles.

Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco SG
'62 Unimog-S 404.114

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:22:44 -1000
From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: brakes, what a drag

       I have something strange happening with my rear brakes on my 1970 88.
In reverse the brakes are self actuating.  You step on the pedal and any
small increase in pedal pressure has a much bigger effect on stopping power.
The brakes are also dragging going forward.  Didn't think that was a big
deal as they seemed to back off as the truck rolled forward but noticed the
hubs get very warm to the touch while the fronts remain cool.
        There is one thing that I have done that might be causing the
problem.  I was going to do a rear brake rebuild, pulled the drums, shoes,
and slave cylinder.  Replaced the slave cylinder and was in the process of
replacing the shoes when I discovered that I had two left sets of shoes (no
brake adjusting pin on the proper side of the right brake).  I put one new
shoe on the right and a good old shoe, put on the old unturned drums and
buttoned it up.  Assembled the left with all new parts but used the old
unturned drum.  I checked the assembly and all is in order with that ring
positioner on the rear shoe and everything seems the same as the fronts
which I also redid and are working fine. 
        Springs were good, everything looks like it is installed properly
but both rear brakes are dragging.  
        I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums,
but want to know what can be the cause of the brakes hanging up and self
actuating in reverse.  Need to know so I can order any other parts that may
need replacing.  Incidentally the old drums were not out of round as there
is no pulsing in the pedal when the brakes are applied.
        Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
'88 1970 
'109 1965
'88 1965 mound of rust

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:17:50 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: An off-the-wall question

>This may sound really, really stupid, though I can't resist asking.  Will a
>Jaguar XK 6-cylinder engine fit into the bay of a Land-Rover?

Aha! I, too have thought about this, but kept my mouth shut for fear of
ridicule. The XK engine is undoubtedly one of the finest engines ever
produced, smooth, durable, and TONS of low end torque. I imagine it would
fit, after all, LR got a 6 in there. Height, not length, would probably be
the issue. I think the biggest probalem would be the weight, if memory
serves, a fully assembled lump weighs upwards of 600lb. Then there would be
the problem of drivetrain strength, although if you could somehow adapt the
4-speed Moss box that Jaguar used in the 50s and 60s... If one could
overcome these problems, I cannot think of a more ideal engine for a LR.
After all, the XK is used in tanks and heavy fire apparatus. I think a 3.4
with 7-1 compression and low lift cams would work nicely. I have plenty of
Jag engines lying around, anyone got a LR needing motor?

Braman
1966 IIa 88"

------------------------------

Date: 14 Mar 97 13:50:56 EST
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Remote Servo Kit

Just received the new Moss Motors catalog to keep my Healey healthy, and ran
across a new entry in the catalog (Issue AH.17.)  First of all, I have no
relationship with Moss and the usual disclaimers exist. Anyway, on page 9, they
list a "Lockheed Remote Replacement Servo Kit" with all the installation parts
for $417.96.  Looks a lot like the remoteservo in my '67 NADA 109" IIA ---you
know, the one you can't buy replacements or parts for anymore. It's the servo
type that's remote, not directly mechanically connected to the brake pedal.
Could even be installed on non-NADA stuff for those wanting to "stop on a
half-pence!"

They do make the comment "Fitting a servo unit does not cure faulty brakes,
therefore, ensure that your braking system is in good working order before
fitting your new servo."  Well, guess that leaves us all out!!

BTW, don't forget to visit http://www.QTH.com/BCU if you plan to be in Chicago
Sept 7, 1997

Bill Kowalski
'67 L-R 109" IIA
'63 Austin-Healey BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley "R"
 

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:57:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Remote Servo Kit

In a message dated 97-03-14 13:54:20 EST, you write:

<< Anyway, on page 9, they
 list a "Lockheed Remote Replacement Servo Kit" with all the installation
parts
 for $417.96.  Looks a lot like the remoteservo in my '67 NADA 109" IIA
---you
 know, the one you can't buy replacements or parts for anymore. >>

I talked to a local guy who says the old Volvo servo units work very well too
(Girling unit)and are still available.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:01:46 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: Mike B, vendor of soft tops

Scott asked:

>Anybody out there familiar with the soft tops sold by Mike Buonanduci in
>Vermont?  I got a quote from him last spring after someone on this list
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>to somebody I dont know anything about.  Anybody out there vouch for Mr.
>Buonanduci and his tops?

Yes, I can wholeheartedly vouch for Mike.  The soft tops are first rate!  He
also has a really good price on hoops (same as the tops).  Likewise he has
3/4 tops.  I have had done quite a bit of dealing with him and he's been
very straight forward and easy for me to deal with.

Some may not like his prices on NOS Smith gauges though...;-)

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional      
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: 14 Mar 97 13:58:36 EST
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Correction-Remote Servo Kit

Sorry, the Remote Servo Kit info I posted today is listed in a Victoria British
Ltd., Catalog Issue AH.17 I just received.  I guess I get all these catalogs
mixed up after the postman visits.

Anyway the same disclaimers etc exist!!

Bill Kowalski

'67 L-R 109" IIA
'63 Austin-Healey BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley "R"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:59:06 -0500
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Soft Top Source

I have received several private replies (thanks!) concerning my solicitation
for references for Mike Buonanduci as a purveyor of soft tops.  I am happy
to report that all responders with first hand knowledge of Mr. Buonanduci
give him a good recommendation.  No evidence of litigation.  Looks like I'll
be using him as a source as soon as I can rub three C-notes together.

For those folks asking for more information, here's what I know: Mike
Buonanduci lives somewhere in Vermont and sells, in addition to soft tops
"tons of Land Rover Parts, new and used.  We ship daily".  One correspondent
related that he parted out cars and dealt with several marques.  Phone
802-439-5815 (I think, last digit is hard to read).  Fax 802-439-5814

One year ago, he quoted me $290 (Greenbacks) for a tan three window soft top
for an 88, "original, not see through thin one, all ropes included".

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:02:56 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Jerrari (was Re: Jag engines)

Tom,

>I remember in one of the American 4x4 magazines from years ago a man who
>installed a Ferrari engine in his J**P Wagoneer, called it a Jerrari.

That man was Bill Harrah.  He actually did two of those.  The first one had
a sleek Ferrari nose to the bodywork!!!  The second had a lengthened
Wagoneer nose and looked stock at a glance.

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:05:45 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re2: Soft Top Source

At 01:59 PM 3/14/97 -0500, M Scott Fugate wrote:
:For those folks asking for more information, here's what I know: Mike
:Buonanduci lives somewhere in Vermont and sells, in addition to soft tops
:"tons of Land Rover Parts, new and used.  We ship daily".  One correspondent
:related that he parted out cars and dealt with several marques.  Phone
:802-439-5815 (I think, last digit is hard to read).  Fax 802-439-5814
:
:One year ago, he quoted me $290 (Greenbacks) for a tan three window soft top
:for an 88, "original, not see through thin one, all ropes included".

 Hi Scott,

 The LROA just received a letter from Cotswold Hoods, Tel/Fax 01993-708492,
 in the UK that manufactures hoods "in 18 oz canvas to original specifications,
 webbing strapping has riveted brass tips and brass buckles, ropes included."
 The price list includes all models from 80" to FC101, as well as 88/90 and
 109/110 tonneau covers, and truck and bikini tops.

 Sample prices:  88 full UK# 101, side windows UK# 10
                109 full UK# 117, side windows UK# 15
 Prices are for khaki plain, other colors 10% extra.
 Shipping to US about UK# 35 per hood, in the UK UK# 6.

 Cheers,

-Michael Carradine
 VP, LROA

  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:31:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew James Moore <mjm@unr.edu>
Subject: Re: Jerrari (was Re: Jag engines)

On Fri, 14 Mar 1997, Granville Pool wrote:

> That man was Bill Harrah.  He actually did two of those.  The first one had
> a sleek Ferrari nose to the bodywork!!!  The second had a lengthened
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Wagoneer nose and looked stock at a glance.
> Granny
If any one is in Reno Nevada and wants to see the "Wagoneer nosed" version
it is on display at the National Automobile museum.  It is quite a piece
of work.

Matt Moore
University of Nevada, Reno
Dept. of Anthropology

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:34:16 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Brakes

Peter Ogilvie writes re lock up problems on 88 brakes.

 Two things to check, one is that the bottom pivot pin for the brake shoes
is secure. I have experience of the pivot pin wearing its fixing hole
elongated, this then permits the pivot point to change potentially causing
the brakes to lock  when direction is reversed.
 use of a leading shoe on the trailing side can cause the shoe to bite, the
trailing shoe does not have a return spring.
 The diameter of the drums should have little effect, mostly on the
difficulty in adjustement and on the contact area reduction between the shoe
and the drum, ie making the brakes less effective rather than more effective.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:42:29 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Jag engine conversion

 Brian Willoughby asks about whether a Jag 6 has been fitted to a Landy.
 In the early seventies Raymond Sagar of Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK  in
the Pennine Land Rover Club and later of NORC had a 6 cyl jag engine in an
88, it was capable of more than  100 mph on an airfield.  Raymond fitted
this after using the Rover 3 litre six for a while. In those days the Rover
V8's were scarce and expensive ( so whats changed ) there were also 88's
with 350 US engines and lots of other conversions. the Daimler V8 ( 2.6
litre ) from the Jag and the Dart, various Ford V6's etc.
 In the mid eighties Paul Hargreaves fitted the XJ 12 V12 engine into a
Range Rover Special, had to move the firewall back a tad.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:44:47 -0400
From: Jeffrey Alan Berry <jaberry@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vendor Recommendation

Mike Buonanduci usually deals cod.  All the stuff I have got have been
good.

--

***Jeff  Berry, Niceville, FL
94 D90
    **----jaberry@sprintmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:50:42 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: To turn or not ...

 I agree with  David Cockey, the only time I favour turning drums is when
there is some ovality or if the surface has become rough all over. Never
bothered about a few scores. . Drum scores from rivets increase the friction
area once the wear pattern is established, thus improving the braking.
   Over sizing the drums results in a smaller contact area on the shoes and
therfore potentailly reduced braking efficiency. 
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:54:32 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Coil conversions

Jeff writes re coil conversion for an 88.
 If you are considering a coil conversion kit  import, why not import a
finished job ? , get one where someone else has done all the work. coil
converted motors can be picked up at moderate prices in the UK, all you need
is an old registration number conversion. 
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:58:06 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: V8 diesel

Ron Beckett writes re the Perkins /  Rover V8 diesel project. It was
cancelled due to longevity problems with the Rover basic engine block. The
engines performance was quite good but the life was  poor. Subsequently the
engine block was modified to stiffen it u for the capacity increases.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:58:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

On 13 Mar 97 at 15:37, Jeff Goldman wrote:

> 	I have a '71 88" SIIA whose chassis is in a non-salvagable condition.
 Since this truck will be a daily driver, and tow vehicle, and an off-roader
 I was thinking about going coil for the re-build. Can anyone give me the
> rundown on what is necessary to accomplish such a feat?
> 	I see my options as getting a purpose built coil chassis kit from the
 various vendors, complete with re-built Defender running gear ($$$), or I
> could possibly source a rolled Range Rover for the necessary items and go
 with a coil chassis alone, or shorten the Rangie chassis. I'm inclined to
 do the later due to cost and the possible availability of the Rover V8 and
 autobox. Any ideas?
 	Seeing as there are no Internet resources for such a project (that I can
 find, anyway) I'd probably do up some of those, as well...
> 	Thanks...

Jeff and all,
time to repeat my wish that someone with the equipment and a web site 
volunteer to set up some pages where those of us doing conversion/hybrid 
LR's could tell of what we have done, successfully and unsuccessfully.
We could be of some help to those wanting information on who makes adapters, 
details and pictures of specific conversions and adaptations from off the 
wall to mild.  I know bits of this sort of thing exist on some sites but 
there is no place specifically for this information.  With the level of 
interest in hybrids I have seen here in the last year I know a lot of us would be very 
appreciative.  I've spent a lot of time thinking out and searching for 
parts that will work in my conversion, and wouldn't mind documenting it 
somewhere if it would help someone else not to have to reinvent the wheel.

As for your dilemma, it appears to me from measuring that a good way to go with a 
RR chassis would be to not shorten it but to use a 109 regular rear bed 
shortened at the front by moving the behind seat bulkhead back 9 inches.  
You would end up with a 100 inch pickup , or by using a plain sided hard 
top shortened 9 inches from the rear with it you get a 100 inch coil 
regular.  I have done some playing with drawings of such a rig and it looks 
proportionally maybe even better than the 109, though at a loss of cargo 
space.  There would be problems with engine location but again from quick 
measuring it looks like swapping the driveshafts and moving the engine back 
would fit things in a series engine bay.  I plan to do just this thing when 
my current project is finished, unless I die of old age first.

Rgds,
Ron Franklin 

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:04:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Adapter Plates

I personally would love to find out about these, after spending 2 hours and
bloody knuckles, getting housing off and getting the #@*!~% gasket off.  I
guess it had not been changed for a WHILE.   Thanks in Advance, 
                                                               Rick

`63 SIIa 88`    " Edina"
`96 Disco       "Patsy"
`97 Blazer

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:02:21 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Re2: Soft Top Source

Michael Carradine wrote:
> At 01:59 PM 3/14/97 -0500, M Scott Fugate wrote:
> :For those folks asking for more information, here's what I know: Mike
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 31 lines)]
>  Cheers,
> -Michael Carradine
>  VP, LROA

Those prices don't sound to bad . I already made a deal with a guy in the 
 UK for a used top 3/4, with hoops complete for #100. Shipping will 
probably kill me though.
 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:12:41 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: To turn or not .. Sometimes

William L. Leacock wrote:
>  I agree with  David Cockey, the only time I favour turning drums is when
> there is some ovality or if the surface has become rough all over. Never
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Bill Leacock    Limey in exile
> 89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

 I've sort of turned mine on different occasions.(different Rovers) I 
found that with a set that hasn't been serviced properly that on the 
outside and inside edge of the face of the drum built up with rust. It 
also narrowed the face because the brake shoe edges wore. If you put a 
new set of shoes on, the result will be the shoes contacting a very rough 
surface first, probably grabbing in reverse as the trailing shoe works 
against this. Taking the "edge" off first allows good brake shoe contact, 
and you really don't have to take off that much of the clean surface to 
effect this.
  Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:27:36 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Adapter Plates

RykRover@aol.com wrote:
> I personally would love to find out about these, after spending 2 hours and
> bloody knuckles, getting housing off and getting the #@*!~% gasket off.  I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> `96 Disco       "Patsy"
> `97 Blazer 

The adapter plates I got were from Paul Socholotiuk @ 1-416-284-7103 
Toronto
 Easy to install and easier to use.
May I mention the disclaimers here?

Con Seitl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:34:32 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>
Subject: Diesel Engine wiring problems

All-

I recently replaced the original two 6 volt battery set-up in my '65 SIIA
2.25L Diesel with one 12 volt battery (90-100 cranking amps).  I soon
noticed electrical problems. I have noticed that the ingnition switch gets
very hot while I'm warming up the engine with the glow plugs prior to
starting.  I even noticed a burning smell coming from the dash area.  There
has even been a burn out of one of my glow plugs.  Well, I ordered a new
wiring harness from British Wiring in Ohio as the original is pitiful
looking, but have yet to install it.  I'm hoping that the problem may be
that the old wires are just too tired for the current of the newer battery.

I have read in the Land Rover FAQ files that when you replace the two
battery set-up with a single 12 volt, the battery cables also warrant
upgrading to handle the higher currents.  Maybe my problem lies in this. The
article mentions upgrading to the "proper low voltage cables".  Does anyone
know what cables this means?  Is this a certain gauge of wire I need to use?
Is this something I can order?  If so, where?

Any ideas out there?  I'm going to go ahead and replace the wiring harness
and have recently had the Dynamo rebuilt, but any other ideas or suggestions
would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Keith W. Cooper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:39:37 -0500
From: "Richard A. Nicotra" <nicotra@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:46:00 -0500
From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.com>
Subject: Zenith IVEQuestions

Okay folks, I'm back at it. It seems that I've dinged this list more
than once over the last few years about the Zenith carb. Here's the
problem. I rebuilt the thing last weekend...sanding the halves and the
emulsion block for an ever so tight fit; installed new jets, volume
screw, gaskets, etc. It's running great...well, almost. The idle will ne
nice and smooth for a minute or so; then the motor will all of a sudden,
for some unexplained reason, rev up for about 30 seconds before settling
back to an idle. Is this a poor slow running jet or just another
gremlin?

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

'69 SIIa 88" SW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:04:47 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>
Subject: Off-Roading in Arkansas!

Hello All-

The newly formed "Arkansas Land Rover Association" will be holding our first
off-road event on April 12th!  We have had our first meeting, but have yet
to get together for the real purpost of the club - OFF-ROADING!

We have had good interest in this part of the country in our club.  We have
about 30 preliminary members and have published our first newsletter.  The
local Land Rover dealership has been supportive with donations of Land Rover
paraphenalia for raffling off at our events.  In fact, I was contacted this
week by a british fellow at the dealership in nearby Memphis,TN and he
expressed interest in getting involved and recruiting Land Rover owners from
their area to come to our first event!  We even have a new Arkansan, Rod
Steele, previously from Canada and member of OVLR, who has co-founded the
club with me.

We are planning a day trip of light to moderate off-roading to allow us all
to get to know each other and our vehicles better.  And yes, I've actually
dug up a few Series Land Rover owners in the area!  We will be heading to
the pine woods and rolling mountains of the nearby Ouchita National Forest
(just 30 minutes outside of Little Rock, AR) for the day long trip.  We plan
to have an informal meeting out there in between off-roading sessions to
further discuss the organization of the club (and maybe collect our first dues).

If anyone is interested in joining us, you are very welcome!  It may be a
little disorganized as this is our first outting, but should still be a good
time!

Thanks to everyone on the list that has given me advice on how to get this
organized!  

Regards,
Keith W. Cooper
'96 Disco
'65 SIIA 88"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:10:52 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: air conditioning

At 09:49 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>rover did make an a/c for the series
>vehicles. there is a 2a in  n.c. that has one. 

There's a Dormobile in Concord, CA (near S.F.) that has factory A/C.  It's
listed on the original invoice.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:19:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Military Part ID help needed

I got the 'antenna junction box' for Les's Loft at Overs-Ray Orth-Nay when I
cashed in my restoration credits. BTW the county bulkhead cover looks great
at $55 for a few cracks in it. I can buy a *lot* of superglue with the
change!  :-)
This box is cast Al, has four insulated feet with holes for through bolts.
Two insulated, quarter inch fine threaded terminals on the side, one marked
'S' the other 'R-', with a smaller, and another terminal below that markes
'F+'. A quarter inch bolt is on the side, presumably for a ground. there is a
plate on the side that says it was made in England by CAV. "Despatch No.
1711820, for AC724,  Alternator use only with twelve cell acid battery. Cap
100-200A.H. Max lamp load 30A Serial No.NM778, Type 323-2.
The top is secured with four screws and is also made of Aluminum. Inside seem
to be some coils attached to the terminals I mentioned and what appears to be
some fusible strips.
What *is* this thing? I'd like to know before I dismantle it and turn it into
a real antenna junction box.
Thanks!!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 20:34:03 -0600 (CST)
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Looking for a Rover

I'm located in Richmond, Va. and I'm looking for a 88. I would prefer
a 70-71 or maybe later. It doesn't have to be pretty but it needs to be
fairly solid mechanically with a decent frame. Right hand drive is OK.
I'd also rather have a soft top but as I only want to spend 3 to 4 
thousand, I know I can't be too picky. Any help or tips would be
appreciated. Best, Dave ("Pete") Kurzman
PS Within 4 hrs of Richmond would be best.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:10:31 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hesitation

Jeremy - here's a thought I haven't seen mentioned.  Sounds like the 
electrics are OK as is fuel flow *to* the carb.  However, the symptoms sound 
like it's getting *too much* fuel.  At open throttle, no problem...it's 
sucking it all down and burnin' it.  At lower flow, it's flooding or choking 
out.

The Zenith 36IV is a generic carb, in that it fits several other marques (I 
have no idea which).  One port/passage needs to be plugged; otherwise it'll 
gulp too much.  It's kinda hard to describe, but hold/look at the carb so 
that the choke/throttle levers are on the left.  On the joining surface, 
there will be two holes/ports midway between the levers and the "slow 
running adjustment" screw, almost vertical over the vacuum port to the 
distributor.  The one closest to the mixture screw needs to be plugged.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:10:34 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Turn, turn again

David Cockey wrote:

>Why do the brake drums need to be turned?  If the frums are round and not
>deeply scored I don't know of any reason to automatically turn the drums.

It's not about putting them on, it's about getting them *off* again.  Rover, 
in its infinite wisdom, didn't fit a return spring to the trailing shoe.  
When the pressure is released, it simply stays there, floating just above 
the surface of the drum.  Now if the drums are old and the brakes refitted 
several times, the actual binding area is going to be this sunken channel, 
maybe a mm or two below the rest of the surface.  Even tho' smooth and free 
from scoring, this ridge is going to make it *damned* difficult to remove 
the drum in the future, as the shoes will hang up.  After turning, there's 
no ridge to impede progress. 

As to turning, my brake shop always requests that I bring a spare hub in 
with it.  You get the most precise cuts that way.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:02:58 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: four questions for the gurus

Hi folks- The IIa (no friendly name yet) is coming along. I just lowered a
shiny clean engine and tranny onto the frame, and I'm beginning to believe
it will all work... so I'm thinking about the extra things I'd like to do
before I start on the body panels.

- Switching to negative ground- I have an early IIa with positive ground. I
want to switch to negative ground & put in a high amp alternator. A quick
inspection of the schematics in the LR manual and the instruments leads me
to believe that all I have to do is flip the battery around and swap the
leads on the ammeter. I have an oil and temp guage, which seem to be
original (although I've never seen them on other rovers). The question- am I
missing something here? Are there any hidden Gotchas?

- A "roll cage"-. I'm not planning on driving like a maniac, but I would
like to be able to run without the top in the summer, and feel that some
sort of roll cage might be prudent. I would like to purchase or make
something that would fit inside the body so that it could also serve as a
mounting point for shoulder straps. (It came with only lap belts, and I
don't see any good mounting points to add shoulder belts.) If the cage also
served as a frame for a soft top, I'd be one happy camper. Has anyone done
this, or know someone who has? Any thoughts?

- A capstan winch- A friend of mine has offered me a nice capstan winch
which he claims came out of a box marked "land rover" when he first acquired
it. It matches some pictures that I've seen of old rovers, so he's probably
correct. The problem is that I have no info on how to mount it, and I'm not
sure if all of the pieces are there. I'm looking for an old manual, or a
person who has one on their rover. It appears to be set up to attach to the
crank pulley. The winch is on a land cruiser right now, so I really need a
complete description of how it is supposed to fit, as I'm sure some pretty
serious modifications have been made.

- Running on LP gas- I noticed that someone mentioned a lightweight set up
for dual fuel a few days back. I've been wanting to convert a vehicle to LP
gas for some time, and acquired an old set of regulators & carb off of a
forklift which happens to have roughly 2.3 litre displacement. I had
intended to try these on the rover, but would much prefer to find a carb
intended for a rover if one is available. Dual fuel would be even better,
since I could switch back to petrol when power is needed. Does anyone know
more about this? Any spare parts for sale? 

Thanks! -NickF

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

------------------------------

From: David W Scott <birddog@atl.mindspring.com>
Subject: Prince Charles
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:06:05 -0600

Monday was to be the big day.  We had enough of the wiring hooked up to =
start the engine and drive the frame with the bulkhead , the rear tub, =
and some seats placed on top of the auxillary tank.  Poured water in the =
radiator and it poured out of the water pump/block seal.  tryed to start =
the engine anyway and no fire.  Worked with this the remainer of the =
afternoon but no progress,  the tub under the block was steadily =
recapturing water.  Next day after a night of reviewing wiring diagrams, =
we hooked the wiring up properly and low and behold after two years, =
Prince Charles coughed, spit and started.  Put the clutch in, put it in =
first, let out the clutch...nothing happens.  Trouble shoot this for a =
few minutes and the linkage for the transfer case was hooked up =
backwards.  This is standard in our shop.  Two ways to hook things =
up..wrong way first then proper way.  This is also with the help of =
several still intact rovers to look at and all available shop manuals =
known to the list.  With the linkage now hooked up properly off I drive =
on the back of the prince around the block,  this to the amazement of =
those who share the same industrial park and have made bets our =
operation would never reach fruition.  Never mind that I could privately =
charter the concorde cheaper than that half mile ride.  The brakes =
worked perfectly if you didnt want to stop right away and pumped enough. =
 After returning the block had heated up the auxillary permagasket and =
sealed the waterpump block interface saving me taking the radiator off.  =
At last a gift from Charles instead of the other way around.  Thanks to =
the list which has been a valuable source for this restoration, I am =
just embarassed that I am not capable of using the info more =
efficiently.  birddog

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:24:49 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>

>From Saturday's Electronic Telegraph

                  A JEALOUS sales executive wrecked a girlfriend's home by
                  ramming it with his =A325,000 Land Rover Discovery as she=
 lay
                  in bed with his best friend days after he had proposed to
her. (Plus a whole                   bunch more)

The only really important fact in this story was that the house had to be
demolished after the Disco had done its job.  Now I'd like to believe that
had the poor bugger been a Series owner she never would have left him for
another. 

 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO" 

rgrant@cadvision.com=09
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 20:34:51 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: four questions for the gurus

At 10:02 PM 3/14/97 -0500, Nick Fankhauser wrote:
;
>- Switching to negative ground- I have an early IIa with positive ground. I
>want to switch to negative ground & put in a high amp alternator. A quick
;inspection of the schematics in the LR manual and the instruments leads me
>to believe that all I have to do is flip the battery around and swap the
;leads on the ammeter. I have an oil and temp guage, which seem to be
>original (although I've never seen them on other rovers). The question- am I
;missing something here? Are there any hidden Gotchas?
;
Swap the coil leads.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:48:44 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Pinto Carbs

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 07:02:57 -0700 (MST)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Pinto Carbs

>It won't take the oil-batrh air cleaner, though, you'll have to go to a
>mini-pancake to use it. The Rochester can't breathe right through the
>oil-bath - too restrictive for street use.

I had a Rochester on my 1973 Series III for about three years before
changing back to the Zenith.  The Rochester performed very well, and
actually gave marginally better performance than the Zenith.  I did not
change the air cleaner; the Rochester was connected to the stock oil-bath
filter using the same ribbed hose and elbow that had fed the Zenith.  The
only modification I had to make was to remove an inch or so from the bottom
of the elbow to keep it from contacting the underside of the hood.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:15:28 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 22:19:55 -500
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

Regarding the recent Fram PH8A post, does this filter have an
anti-return valve?

I don't believe the PH8 has an anti-return valve.  I think this is the main
reason you have to use the Fram HP-1 on the Range Rover (this is the filter
called out in the Fram master catalog).  I assume this applies to the
Discovery and Defender as well.  If your vehicle uses a PH8, you can
substitute an HP-1 if you wish (they're the same size and thread), but if
your engine requires an HP-1, you're not supposed to substitute a PH8.  The
owner's manual for my 1991 Range Rover very specifically states that the
oil should be drained from the pan and the new oil poured in BEFORE
removing and replacing the oil filter.  Unfortunately, the book doesn't say
why, although it might have something to do with keeping the external oil
pump from losing its prime.  But I've always followed the procedure
outlined in the manual, in addition to pre-filling the oil filter before I
install it, and I've never had any problems.  However, if you're talking
about which filter to use on a Series Land Rover adapter, I doubt the
anti-return valve of the HP-1 is critical as the original cartridge filter
certainly didn't have one.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:02:59 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: An off-the-wall question

From: "Brian Willoughby" <lndrvr@ldd.net>
Subject: An off-the-wall question
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:19:47 -0600

This may sound really, really stupid, though I can't resist asking.  Will a
Jaguar XK 6-cylinder engine fit into the bay of a Land-Rover?

I owned for a very short time an Austin Healey 3000 that had been fitted
with an XK engine but that doesn't qualify me as an expert.  However, I
recall that the XK was a pretty big engine.  I suspect it would be a real
shoehorn job to get one into a Series Land Rover and have room left for a
decent radiator.  There's a bit more room in a Defender, so that might be a
little easier.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:13:00 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: To turn or not to turn

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:54:32 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: To turn or not to turn

Peter writes:
> I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums

This should keep the Major busy. Why do the brake drums need to be
turned? If the drums are round and not deeply scored I don't know of any
reason to automatically turn the drums. LR in the SII manual says to
examine the drums for scoring, ovality, and skim if required. Not very
precise. Haynes says to turn if the scoring is deep, but doesn't define
deep. Neither says to always turn.

My BMW mechanic never turns rotors unless they need it, by which he means
either they've been scored or they've warped.  Warping isn't a problem with
drums (or shouldn't be), but scoring can be.  For whatever reason, putting
new shoes into a drum that's been scored, even a little bit, can result in
a most annoying case of brake squeal.  The brakes will work okay, although
the high-frequency vibration, which is what the squeal actually is, can
eventually start to break down or crack the lining material.  I've had
several brake "experts" tell me that when fitting new shoes or pads, the
drums or rotors should always be turned if for no other reason than to
start out with a perfectly smooth surface.  This will minimize or eliminate
brake squeal, a big problem now that they've outlawed asbestos.  I had a
bad squealing problem on my Series III a number of years ago even though
the brakes worked fine.  I finally broke down and had the drums turned at
the same time I put on new shoes.  End of squeal problem.  This is the only
time the drums have ever been turned in 24 years and 150,000 plus miles.

My 1991 Range Rover is on its 3rd set of front brake pads in 80,000 miles.
The rotors are almost as smooth as the day I bought it, and I've never had
them turned.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

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