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Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 21:17:04 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Pinto Carbs

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> If you can't find a Pinto, the Rochester off a Chevy Vega works quite

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Poor guy thought he'd fallen through a time warp...but he did smile and
> wave enthusiastically.
>                               ajr

Bingo!!! I think I've hit on something here. I posted earlier that I had 
blowby problems with "White Gunk" all through my system. The carb I have 
on presently was picked up at the War Surplus store here. It was new, $25 
 but had a narrow throat on it. Maybe I created my problem here. Do you 
suppose its sucking too hard and bringing all this grundge out throuh my 
PVC line instead of drawing through the oil bath? Maybe I need another 
cup of coffee before I try to think? The carb was apparently off a 
back-up generator motor and fit quite easily. Don't have the opportunity 
to "blow by" anything on the road here,I just pretend to be looking for 
something on the side of the road, gives me a reason for driving slower!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:25:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 2.6 cover gasket...

Chris wrote:
"I don't think that any company makes the valve cover gasket for the
NADA...."

Both RN and DAP have the gaskets for that motor. The intake cover gasket
you're dealing with is most likely available individually, or at least as
part of the de-carbonising set. RN (802-879-0032) has the set, not sure about
the singular gasket, DAP (802-885-6660) has the gasket, and will "build" the
set. I'd replace the gasket with the correct item prior to 'dippling' the
cover. Never had any problems with the gasket slipping on any of the 3.0
litres here, and they're the same as the 2.6 as far as this is concerned. Use
hylomar for gasket to cover, light smear of grease for gasket to block, and
don't over torque... Cover should be able to be R&R'd via this method, mine
do, and don't leak. You might periodically have to adjust the tightness, but
don't overtorque. Also check the condition of the large rubber washer at the
fasteners for the cover itself, perhaps the nut is improperly 'bottoming out'
indicating a falsely tightened cover. You could find those conditions with a
squashed washer or missing hardware, if so, just replace with new or
good/used. Or maybe the cover for the rubber washer is missing, letting the
nut settle into the washer itself.... Thanks for keeping it going...
see 'ya on the old road...
jim  '61 88" w/ OD, 1Bbl weber, 16's, hubs (econobox?) 'Nicky'
       '60 P5 MkI 4 spd w/OD  "Olive(r)"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:39:13 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fluids and filters

The "fluid ceremony" is well under way. 
It's been recommended to me to put 20 W 50 engine oil in.
Any validity in this?
Also I've been informed that I can use a short filter can instead of the
longer version.Just swap the can and bolt.(both 2.25 engines)
It looks as if the element has nothing really to stop it from leaning
over(because of the position of the can)and therefore end up not being
on the filter housing.Nothing to guide it into place in other words.
Any suggestions on this?
Thanks,
Steve

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:38:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Pinto Carbs

Re: Narrow carb throat causing excessive "gunk"

Uhhhhh.....don't think so. I might be wrong, though.

Extra vacuum would actually reduce the amount of gunk by drawing more of it
through before it would condense, I'd think.

Carb off a backup genny? Yow.....8*)

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 07:02:57 -0700 (MST)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Pinto Carbs

>It won't take the oil-batrh air cleaner, though, you'll have to go to a
>mini-pancake to use it. The Rochester can't breathe right through the
>oil-bath - too restrictive for street use.

That's interesting, because I thought that a while ago I read an article 
comparing different air filter techniques and it indicated that oil bath 
types where the lowest restricting of the bunch. It also said that at low 
flow rates, oil baths didn't filter too well, but at higher flow rates, 
they filtered the best. Main drawback - messy. Hmmm...

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 09:59:35 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: carbs

1980's Chevettes had a 2-barrel carb that fits directly onto the pierce
manifold made for LRs. It has a lot of emmisions junk on it, tho. Perhaps
something from an earlier chevette would do the trick.

Braman
1966 IIA 88"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 22:57:13 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: carbs

Braman Wing wrote:
> 1980's Chevettes had a 2-barrel carb that fits directly onto the pierce
> manifold made for LRs. It has a lot of emmisions junk on it, tho. Perhaps
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Braman
> 1966 IIA 88"

Chevette eh? Maybe easier to find than Pinto. Looks like I'll have to 
spend a day at the junkers. Scary to think that with all the fuel 
injected and computer controlled vehicles these days that we'll be hard 
pressed to find a simple carb. And it's not going to get easier. I do 
have a milk crate full of odd carbs from various Landys I've junked, 
maybe time to learn how to rebuild them.

Con....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 23:05:12 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

Steve Stoneham wrote:
> The "fluid ceremony" is well under way.
> It's been recommended to me to put 20 W 50 engine oil in.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Any suggestions on this?
> Thanks,
> Steve

I would think that the long filter/short filter element are both held in 
by tension of the spring, centering it correctly. I did switch to the 
short element just because of long element availability, but now have 
changed over to the adapter plate to allow me to use a spin-on filter, 
PH8A, much cheaper and no mess. Local Wal-Mart had them on for $1.27 on 
sale,(FRAM), but usually run about $2.25

Con.....

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 22:19:55 -500
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

Regarding the recent Fram PH8A post, does this filter have an 
anti-return valve?  Is this possible to ascertain by inspection?  
What are the pros and cons of the tall PH8A vs the short PH16
Fram filters?  Mark     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 07:33:05 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

I use Castrol GTX 10w-30 or 20w-50, depending on winter or summer 
temperatures. The PO used only Castrol and the engine had survived 250,000 
miles with one overhaul (not a complete rebuild), which seems to be typical. 
It was freshly rebuilt when I bought it, and it went 125,000 more miles 
before I rebuilt it, although the teardown revealed that only rings were 
absolutely necessary. I put 8000 miles on the fresh rebuild, then switched 
to diesel, keeping the good running gas engine as my backup in case I wasn't 
satisfied with the diesel experiment. I'll probably sell the gas engine and 
rebuild the spare diesel next.
All these engines have short filters, now. I'm pretty sure the bolt has a 
centering spider, or at least the can centers it somehow. You've got me 
wondering now. 'Think I'll change the oil this weekend.

John Ousterhout
'64 109 5-door, w/a gazillion miles on both original parts.
>The "fluid ceremony" is well under way. 
>It's been recommended to me to put 20 W 50 engine oil in.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Any suggestions on this?
>Thanks,
>Steve

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Help for the swirling eddy of lost listers... // Series Air Con
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 10:43:03 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

For reference, the following lines are at the top of every Digest:
 -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  
    Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
    
    The List pages (including subscribe/unsubscribe forms) start at:
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    (shadow) http://www2.Land-Rover.Team.Net/lro-info.html
    
    Send submissions to the list to:	lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
    
    To UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to:		MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
    	with the text:				unsubscribe lro-digest
    	
    Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Te
   am.Net
    with the text:					subscribe lro-digest
    
    Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text:	help
    
 -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  
"Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> writes:
>   It seems that at least once per week there is a lame attempt from some 
>   soul to unsubscribe from this list. 

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> writes
    
<   The situation strikes me a humourous - after all, using a PC today, on
<   or off net, is still too complicated for many, thus dooming them to the
<   perils of "Plug 'n' Pray" - still I would have thought that most people
<   would have found out how to un-subscribe, and considering the invitation
<   to change subscription and the address  of the major is at the top of

	and even more information is present for the lost soles of the digest
	variety (see above)

>   every posting on this list - I can't believe that logic so rarely seems
>   to triumph over desperation.
    
>   Maybe we should get the Major to make an "un-subscribe" webside, so that

	There is, as above, at lro-info.html

>   maybe Bill C. could devise some labrynthian net-questionaire which
>   potential unsubscribers should fill in before unsubscribing - we could

	Well, if i get about to groking JavaScript, then perhaps I'll be
	able to write a better web page, but the truely lost soles never
	find their way even to there -- they just hit reply and spam the
	list :-(

	The questions are good though ...
<   1.	Why do yu want to un-subscribe?
<   2.	What sort of Land-Rover do you not have?
<   3.	How long have you never had a Land Rover?
<   4.	Do you wish for your unsubscription to be automatically cancelled at some future though random date?
<   5.	what is the correct order for tightening the bolts which fasten the 2,25 head onto the block, and what is the recommended torque?
    
======================================================================    
(Dixon file this response with the Taylor anti-FAQ).

Curtis Palmer <cpalmer@ATLANTA.ViewCallAmerica.com> writes:
Subject: "Is there after-market A/C for a Series Rover?"

>   As I continue to "guide" my wife towards accepting the purchase of
>   a Series IIa - combined with the fact that I live in the SouthEast USA
>   (with summer humidity)...  I must ask her question (sanitized from the
>   original response <g> she gave me):
    
	Well, yes, Chris, there are air conditioner option for those
of you in the South Eastern US. 

Arkansas Swamp Cooler

	With this ingenious device you hook a Desert Water Bag up on the
	roof of the vehicle, and place it in the airflow. This creates an
	ample supply of cold water. (It does help to fill it with water first.)

	Second you stick foam mesh or cheescloth (or some other substance
	suitable for absorbing water and letting air through) across the
	dashboard vents.

	Third, you connect the supply of cold water  (as from 1) to the
	evaporative mesh (as in 2), then open the vents and drive.

	If you screw up the passenger gets a cold shower, otherwise, the
	air flowing through evaporates the water, which sucks heat from
	the air with creates cool air flow. 

Georgia Cooler

	Here you go around to the front of the vehicle, grab some ice out of 
	the cooler, wrap it in bandana then throw it around your neck. The
	vinyl seats in the Land Rover won't be harmed by the runoff of
	melting ice cubes.

Winnebego cooler

	Grab one of those roof-top units plop it on the Series Roof and
	then upgrade the altenator and motor to create enough electricity
	to run it.

	Cheers,
	-Bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:47:59 -0400 (SAT)
From: Jose Trisotti <jtrisott@reuna.cl>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Help 

At 03:55 13/03/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
>The List pages (including subscribe/unsubscribe forms) start at:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>    3 lro-owner          Wed Mar 12 04:57   26/1134  Re: Cab Mounting(for my P
>WARNING: The remainder of this message has not been transferred.  Click on
the server retrieve icon above and check mail again to get the whole thing.
If the server retrieve icon is not showing, then this message is no longer
on your mail server.
>The estimated size of this message is 54431 bytes.
>The List pages (including subscribe/unsubscribe forms) start at:

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:56:46 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

I've finally started using Mathilda (SIIA 109 SW) for commuting; Samson
(D90) stayed home today to rest :)

Generally everything is working fairly well, slopes on the freeway
are restricted to 60mph but I generally kept up with flow at about 65-70 
mph.  No problems climbing the Bay Area hills.

I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow 
accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.  This is 
not apparent at speed in 3rd or 4th but
shows up in low gears, particularly from a stop or climbing a grade.
The engine will rev fine but on application of load (engaging gear via
the clutch) it seems to loose power and approach a stall.  Revving
the engine to higher than "normal" (?) and engaging the clutch a bit
more slowly allows movement with slow acceleration.  In 2nd the
engine tends to lurch a bit.  If the engine is allowed to sit 10-15
minutes the symptoms seem to disappear only to reappear after another
10-15 miles.   The symptoms appear well after the engine has reached 
operating temperature (180).  I'm using a Zenith carb.

Any ideas on the cause ?  I've not checked the sed. bowl for sediment
yet.  Could a choked filter system cause this?  What about the Zenith 
carb?  Is this consistent with the classical problem with that unit?
Do I need to recheck the timing?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:36:46 -0400
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Hesitation...hate it.

Fuel filter is my first thought, as well as possible crap build-up in the
carb. float bowl..

The other thing to check is fuel pressure from the fuel pump. If you are
pumping at too low a pressure and it's warm, you could be getting some
vapor-lock-like symptoms.

Lastly, eyeball the timing - might be off.

                         aj"Mk. 3 hairy eyeball"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:44:21 -0500
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Vendor Recommendation

In a way I hate to do this, but it's my cash at stake, so here goes...

Anybody out there familiar with the soft tops sold by Mike Buonanduci in
Vermont?  I got a quote from him last spring after someone on this list
mentioned him as a possible source.  This year I'm REALLY going soft top,
and his quote is a good one, but I'm a little leery about sending 300 bucks
to somebody I dont know anything about.  Anybody out there vouch for Mr.
Buonanduci and his tops?

All persons currently involved in litigation against him, kindly respond
privately. 

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 09:43:27 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:

> I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
> Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow
> accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.
> Any ideas on the cause ?

Two things worth checking. The choke. Make certain it's opening all the
way. A more obscure problem that caused the symptoms you describe on a
motorcycle I once owned was a restricted fuel tank vent. A test drive
with the filler cap removed would rule this one out right away. Vapour
lock is another possibility.

Best of luck, Greg
Comox, B.C.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 13:22:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Vendor Recommendation

On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, M Scott Fugate wrote:

> to somebody I dont know anything about.  Anybody out there vouch for Mr.
> Buonanduci and his tops?

	Have not seen the tops he has in stock, but I,ve never
	had a problem with him.  Gotten a bunch of stuff from
	him over the years.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:34:56 -6
Subject: R&P for 90

I didn't quite catch the thread. Is someone looking for 4.7 R&P for 
their D90? I might have a set of used ones to trade for your used D90 
R&P's.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 02:40:40 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Fluids and filters

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> Regarding the recent Fram PH8A post, does this filter have an
> anti-return valve?  Is this possible to ascertain by inspection?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> What are the pros and cons of the tall PH8A vs the short PH16
> Fram filters?  Mark

Anti-return Valve? You got me. I don't know. Seems the oil goes in one 
hole and out the other. Seems to work to. PH16 I haven't used, just the 
PH8A, but the list of available filters that came with the adapters has 
about 15 filters that will work on it.

Con.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:00:20 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: Series AC

Curtis asked;

>"Is there after-market A/C for a Series Rover?"

Call Old Car Air, ads in Hemmings or 800 directory.
-I just cleaned my office (a little) and misplaced their info. e-mail me if
you can't find them.

They offer the box with fan, heat and distribution for under $300.

They have entire kits for around $800 -including compressor etc.  I don't
think they have a specific kit for a LR, but if you can fit a GM alternator
you can fit a compressor.

I'm planning on one if only for the heat -smaller and CHEAPER than a Kodiak.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional      
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 02:56:41 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Oil Filter Adapter Plates

Begging the "Lists" approval, if any one wishes to find out more about 
this adapter plate , I can post the "Sellers" address, whereupon you can 
ask about specific tech information and pricing. I'm sure he wouldn't 
mind.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:10:14 -0500
From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.com>
Subject: Richard Kaplan

So, someone tell me again how to get rid of this guy? He keeps crashing
my netscape.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:19:38 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

John Benham wrote:
> snip
> I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
> Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow
> accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.  snip

> How is your vacuum advance system/hose, etc?

That occurred to me, and at a glance the system seems OK although I've not
vacuum tested it.  Wouldn't that show up also at the start of running though?
Hmm.. unles engine compartment heat is expanding gap in a connection I suppose.
Guess I'll have to check it with the system hot.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:24:29 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Greg Moore wrote:
snip
 > I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
> > Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow
> > accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> with the filler cap removed would rule this one out right away. Vapour
> lock is another possibility.

I was wondering about vapor lock but tenatively ruled that out since the engine 
was running well with no load even at high revs.  Is this a false diagnosis on
my part?

The choke does appear to be OK.  I did have similar but not identical symptoms
when I left the choke out once so I don't think that's it.  The choke symptoms
seem to be rougher and jerkier.  This is a more gradual hesitation/power loss.

I'd not thought of the fuel tank vent.  That could be possible particularly considering
the routing of the line on the 109 SW; there's lots of scope for pinching. I'll
have to check that.

Thanks,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:30:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Adapter Plates

On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Con P. Seitl wrote:

> Begging the "Lists" approval, if any one wishes to find out more about 
> this adapter plate , I can post the "Sellers" address, whereupon you can 
> ask about specific tech information and pricing. I'm sure he wouldn't 
> mind.

	Which adapter?  For the canister -> PH8a style?

	Three sources - Scholutituk (whatever) in Toronto $50
		      - Ham in Virginia			  $85
		      - 2.5l adapter (err-1347 if you must know)
							  L154 new

	All different, different prices.  If this is a new one, add
	it to the list... :-)  We like lots of choices and price
	points to play with...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:30:44 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> snip
> Fuel filter is my first thought, as well as possible crap build-up in the
> carb. float bowl..

Ah, that was my first thought, slow build up of crud leading to clogging
followed by settling then a renewal of the process.  However, a check of the
bowl revealed no crud.  It's also a completely new system (tank, line, pump
filter, carb. etc.) so I'd be a bit surprised at clogging (although with the rumors
of what the "new and improved gas" does to systems I'm not sure).
> The other thing to check is fuel pressure from the fuel pump. If you are
> pumping at too low a pressure and it's warm, you could be getting some
> vapor-lock-like symptoms.

Any recommendations for a simple,safe pressure check?  BTW the pump is new, or 
more accurately rebuilt.

I was thinking about vapor lock/supply but ruled that out based on decent engine
response with no load even at high revs and lack of a flow problem once speed
is build up.  Actually that just got me thinking.  I suppose the symptoms are a
little like a failure of the accelerator circuit in the carb.

> Lastly, eyeball the timing - might be off.
> pumping at too low a pressure and it's warm, you could be getting some

Agreed I need to check that, although the timing was set accurately a mere
40 or so miles ago.

cheers and thanks,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:43:48 -0400
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Pressure-checking a fuel system:

Easiest way is with a pressure/vacuum gauge as sold at most auto-parts
stores.

Pull the line off the carb, put on and fasten the end to the gauge, and
start 'er up.....

A few seconds running should give you a good indication of the pressure
with little risk.

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 11:50:53 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: how to check fuel pump function

Jeremy, et al: FWIW: I bought one of those glass fuel filters with the 
cylinderical plastic filters and installed it just ahead of the carb. It 
didn't keep fine crud out of the carb, but did give positive visual 
indications that fuel was being pumped. The filter element is optional for 
this application.
JohnO

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 97 14:53:58 EST
Subject: Re: Richard Kaplan

>So, someone tell me again how to get rid of this guy? He keeps crashing 
>my netscape.

Try threatening him with Land Rover ownership. That's usually enough to 
send the weak ones scampering.

DaveB.
Arlington VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:03:44 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Richard Kaplan

Chris Stevens wrote:
> So, someone tell me again how to get rid of this guy? He keeps crashing
> my netscape.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Chris Stevens
> Towson, MD

last time I was hit by the kaplan enigma, I tried to open the mail and
my system crashed, I tried to delete, and that too crashed my system as
selecting the posting is the same as opening it - so, after crashing
several times, I arrived at the following ruse...

Make sure the kaplan document is in the middle of the list (i.e. not at
top or bottom) - select the posting above, press shift and select
posting below, now all three should be selected, with kaplan sandwiched
in the middle. Press delete, all three will be deleted, problem is gone.

Just make sure that the sacrificial postings above and below are
read,copied or unimportant, as you lose these too! This is the only way
I have found of getting free of the kaplan triangle!

good luck
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <ATREACE@hasimons.com>
Subject: RE: Series AC
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:04:09 -0800

>From Hemmings Motor News, Vintage Truck section:

Old Air Products
3056 S.E. Loop 820
Fort Worth, Texas  76140
(817) 551-0602
Fax (817) 568-0037

>----------
>From: 	cmw@tiac.net[SMTP:cmw@tiac.net]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
>               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 04:15:11 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Adapter Plates

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Con P. Seitl wrote:
> > Begging the "Lists" approval, if any one wishes to find out more about
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>         it to the list... :-)  We like lots of choices and price
>         points to play with...

 The one I was referring to was the Socholotiuk (sic) variety, spin-on. 
Seems you already have info on this source.
  
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:29:18 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Help for the swirling eddy of lost listers...

At 04:03 PM 3/12/97 -0800, Adrian Redmond wrote:
>The situation strikes me a humourous - after all, using a PC today, on

I find it more depressing, actually.  Zippy the Pinhead called it "the
Dumbing of America".  People either don't care enough to avoid bothering
others by figuring it out themselves, or they don't have the ability to
figure it out.

>Maybe we should get the Major to make an "un-subscribe" webside, so that
>instead of the existing header message, there is a line saying "to
>un-subscribe, click here - and when you click, you get a side with the

Except that not all e-mail programs allow for clicking a web address to
spawn a browser.  (I especially doubt AOL's software does.)

>recipe - write your e-mail address in THIS box, tick the lists which you
>wish to unsubscribe from in THESE boxes, confirm HERE - that sort of
>thing - maybe it would lighten the load for all of us, but still I would

That would be good, though, with a "send mail to ... or see http://..."
message.  The Model 100 list has that.  I'd offer to host it, but at the
moment my provider doesn't allow CGI scripts.  8^(

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 15:37:24 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Coiling a Series truck

	I have a '71 88" SIIA whose chassis is in a non-salvagable condition.
Since this truck will be a daily driver, and tow vehicle, and an off-roader
I was thinking about going coil for the re-build. Can anyone give me the
rundown on what is necessary to accomplish such a feat?
	I see my options as getting a purpose built coil chassis kit from the
various vendors, complete with re-built Defender running gear ($$$), or I
could possibly source a rolled Range Rover for the necessary items and go
with a coil chassis alone, or shorten the Rangie chassis. I'm inclined to
do the later due to cost and the possible availability of the Rover V8 and
autobox. Any ideas?
	Seeing as there are no Internet resources for such a project (that I can
find, anyway) I'd probably do up some of those, as well...
	Thanks...

											Jeff Goldman

	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 13:11:10 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Help for the swirling eddy of lost listers...

>Dumbing of America".  People either don't care enough to avoid bothering
>others by figuring it out themselves, or they don't have the ability to
>figure it out.

To try to put it in perspective: I had e-mail for over a year before I could 
get access to the web. NO ONE here at work has any documentation on usage of 
either system, so there is no place to look up help, and no experts. 
Learning has been and continues to be by trial and error. There is no help 
page to turn to in Eudora (only the "about PC Eudora" which is no help). So, 
how am I supposed to "figure is out" without asking other users? I'm willing 
to offer advice to lost souls. There but for the grace of Bill Gates go I.

JohnO
"the learning curve is steep for young Luke"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 13:33:38 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - some ideas

John Ousterhout wrote:
> Jeremy: 'sounds like two possible things: point gap wrong (too close if
> memory serves), or fuel starvation.

Hmm... I know I set the points correctly (or at least I believe I did) when
I did the timing a mere 40 miles or so ago, ... still worth double checking,
and given Gerry's experience with points they could have just sat too long.

snip
> Check the point gap first, and
> maybe the condensor and coil (look for pitting on the point contact surfaces
> as a bad condensor sign, back firing if bad coil)

There's no backfiring so I've also assumed that it's not really a timing issue.
Also the coil is brand new (admittedly I've had Lucas parts bad out of the box though).

Thanks for the advice.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 17:48:21 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

>Can anyone give me the rundown on what is necessary to accomplish such a 
feat?

Cash, huge gobs of it. A hybrid is a compromise of all good things. A 
rangie chassis is a good choice, but you'll have to cut it up and if you 
want to use the 2A engine and tranny, you've got to figure out how to 
arrange that. If you buy a ready-made frame, you may be ahead of the game 
in terms of time and noodling through the powertrain engineering. If you 
use the RR drivetrain, you'll have to bump out the breakfast to fit the 
v8 and rad, not to mention bulkhead mods.
Parts,especially used ones, are scarce and expensive. 
I would conservatively estimate that you'll spend 10K before all is said 
and done. 
 
Way more practical is to do a frame-over. You'll spend thousands less and 
the result will be a truck that you can use as a daily driver, tow 
vehicle and off-roader.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:15:32 +1100 (EST)
From: Doug McPherson <haystack@netspace.net.au>
Subject: Squishy brake in 110

Hi all,

does anyone know of any particular quirks in the early (85) 110's brakes ?
(1985 110 V8 4spd)

I've just rebuilt most of it. (New seals in calipers, master and wheel cyls,
wheel cyls sleeved, all the other bores seemed OK).

The brake pedal is now very 'squishy', some of this seems to be due to too
much travel at the rear drums 
(they seem to have been machines too far, anyone know the internal diam of a
new 110 drum ?), but there also seem to be 
air somewhere !

I've bled it pretty thoroughly and I'm not getting air anywhere :-(

Bled at :
        master
        high point above rear axle
        rear wheel cyls
        calipers

And no, it doesn't have an angled master like a IIa LWB !

Thanks for any ideas,

Doug.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 97 18:34:50 UT
From: "Daniel Palmer" <2Palmers@msn.com>
Subject: D90 stall

I have a 1994 Red D90 with about 21,000 miles on it.  For about the last 
month, it has started to stall while idling after the engine is "warmed up".  
I notice it mainly in the morning on my way to work.  After about 5 miles of 
driving (and my temp gauge gets up to a normal reading), I'll be sitting at a 
light and the RPMs will drop down to about 250 and then swing back up to 
normal.  Sometimes it will die, other times just swing.  I use premium fuel 
(Amoco) and have not changed anything that I know of.  Any suggestions?
Dan Palmer
2palmers@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 16:50:56 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Vendor Recommendation

M Scott Fugate wrote:
> In a way I hate to do this, but it's my cash at stake, so here goes...
> Anybody out there familiar with the soft tops sold by Mike Buonanduci in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Scott Fugate
> 1970 IIa 88
> 1989 RR

I purchased a soft top from him last year and am happy. Everything as
far as I could tell was Genuine (I bought the hoop set as well) just as
an aside what is his telephone number? I recommended him to someone up
here and told him the number was in Hemmings (that's where I found him)
but I have'nt seen his number there since. YMMV

Tom Spoto

72 88 sporting a truck cab currently soft top in the summer.
67 88 topless and in the garage, full top in the barn.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 01:56:03 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
 
> I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
> Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow
> accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.  This is
> not apparent at speed in 3rd or 4th but

This sounds VERY much like a problem I just solved on my Zentith carb.
Mine had the same problems for ages, pulling up from traffic lights was
a nightmare.
I eventually checked the accelerator pump, and found the tiny tube
emitting into the barrel, just next to the choke valve to be clogged.
To test try pulling out the choke all the way when the car starts
'hesitating' and keep well on the throttle. This will enrichen the fuel
for a noticable result.
The fact you only have this in low gears is because this is where the
rpm's change quickest and so the accelerator pump is needed most.

I don't know the proper term for accelerator pump, but it is the little
piston inside the top half of the carb with all the jets, tubes and 2
little ball valves. 
When I took my carb to bits, it was quite clean inside, yet the tube was
blokked, maybe caused by backfiring.....

Floris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 14:55:17 -1000
From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

       I have something strange happening with my rear brakes on my 1970 88.
In reverse the brakes are self actuating.  You step on the pedal and any
small increase in pedal pressure has a much bigger effect on stopping power.
The brakes are also dragging going forward.  Didn't think that was as big
deal as they seemed to back off as the truck rolled forward but noticed the
hubs get very warm to the touch while the fronts remain cool.
        There is one thing that I have done that might be causing the
problem.  I was going to do a rear brake rebuild, pulled the drums, shoes,
and slave cylinder.  Replaced the slave cylinder and was in the process of
replacing the shoes when I discovered that I had two left sets of shoes (no
brake adjusting pin on the proper side of the right brake).  I put one new
shoe on the right and a good old shoe, put on the old unturned drums and
buttoned it up.  Assembled the left with all new parts but used the old
unturned drum.  I checked the assembly and all is in order with that ring
positioner on the rear shoe and everything seems the same as the fronts
which I also redid and are working fine. 
        Springs were good, everything looks like it is installed properly
but both rear brakes are dragging.  
        I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums,
but want to know what can be the cause of the brakes hanging up and self
actuating in reverse.  Need to know so I can order any other parts that may
need replacing.  Incidentally the old drums were not out of round as there
is no pulsing in the pedal when the brakes are applied.
        Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
'88 1970 
'109 1965
'88 1965 mound of rust

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:12:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: carbs

>1980's Chevettes had a 2-barrel carb that fits directly onto the pierce
>manifold made for LRs. It has a lot of emmisions junk on it, tho. Perhaps
>something from an earlier chevette would do the trick.

No, older, go 'way back, think Vega. Besides, the Chevette only had 1400 and
1600cc engines. The Chevy 2300 displaced almost the same as our 2286's! Also
try Pontiac Starfire and rear wheel drive Sunbird, Chevy Monza. Don't know if
there was a Buick or Olds version, though.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 10:33:20 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: Dunsfold land rovers their answer

Hi All, 
 I felt guilty  having watched all the yank mates floundering around trying
to  find a map big enough to show it, so...
I just called Dunsfold and they confirm that not all the vehicles are held
there but will be there for the open weekend in October, exact date TBN.
DLR also said that "Quite a few of the more interseting ones will be at the
Billing Show" Also "We'd be pleased to show any overseas visitors around
any time but call a few days ahead ".(+44)-1483-200567.bear in mind its a
working garage so they ain't there weekends. except Sat mornings.  
Now my twopence worth for Ian & Donna Harper: Forget all the convoluted
directions, get to Gatwick Airport, 30min by train from central London,
call me  and I'll take you over to Dunsfold in the Lightweight-can't have
you pitching up at Mecca in a rental thing can we? Let me know when to
expect you and I'll give you my phone number.
 Cheers
Mike Gaines

------------------------------

From: "Brian Willoughby" <lndrvr@ldd.net>
Subject: An off-the-wall question
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:19:47 -0600

This may sound really, really stupid, though I can't resist asking.  Will a
Jaguar XK 6-cylinder engine fit into the bay of a Land-Rover?  I know that
it's wide enough (afterall, the Jag engineers were so adamant about not
using the Rover V-8 that they designed the engine bay of the XJ40 [the
second generation XJ6] to be too narrow to accept it [ah, you have to love
the good old British Leyland days].)  I'm not really thinking of doing
this, just curious.  I have a friend who keeps talking of converting an XJ6
to a Chevy engine which would leave the XK in need of a good home.  Okay,
this is just something I am curious about so don't be to rough in your
responses--I'm already expecting a lot of grief over this.

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 21:49:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: air conditioning

the rover with the a/c at the rally last fall belonged to mark garrington in
portsmouth, va. a nice clean set up. rover did make an a/c for the series
vehicles. there is a 2a in  n.c. that has one. looks like an inverted
external sunvisor. the control box is mounted on the passenger side of the
bulkhead about10in. long and 4 in. high, very basic unit. the man who has it
use to have the mobile training vehicles that rover used for its stateside
operations

------------------------------

From: BigAlSk8r@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:12:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: electronic ignition/leaky swivel seals

Hi All, Me again with more questions, I was wondering where I can find an
electronic ignition for my series 3, what else used this distibutor? Also,
the new rovers {Disco's&D-90's} have service free swivels, they are filled
with a special grease that looks / feels like a moly grease / gear oil mix ,
this can be put in earlier swivels as a update by disassembling, cleaning and
packing the C.V. joint / filling the housing with whats left of the pre
measured packet of "stuff", would this work on a series with U-joints? any
one who may have tried something simular please let me know good or bad.
Thanks Again , Allan      S.L.C. Utah   '73  S111 88" "Belle"    '66 S11 109"
' "Matilda"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:21:42 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Sholutituk(whatever) in Toronto

Would someone happen to have the phone number of the gent in Toronto
that has the filter adapters?
I think it's a great idea and it would also allow me to partially
"prime" the filter with oil.This little habit may not add years to the
engine's life but it makes me feel better when starting it after an oil
change.
You'd be suprised how much oil will absorb into the filter if done in
stages,allowing the oil to soak in.

Also another little trick I learned today,when removing a stubborn brake
drum on a series vehicle,instead of trying to fiddle with the slotted
head screw that's supposed to help in removing the drum,simply insert a
piece of threaded rod,or bolt (3/8") into the hole and tighten  in with
vice grips or whatever.
It came off like it was installed yesterday!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 20:26:48 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: "Hesitation" - Mathilda Goes to Work

Floris Houniet wrote:
> snip
 > > I have noticed, however, one consistent quirk.
 > > Over three trips a "hesitation", or perhaps more accurately a slow
 > > accelerator response, develops after about ten to fifteen miles.  This is
 > > not apparent at speed in 3rd or 4th but
 > This sounds VERY much like a problem I just solved on my Zentith carb.
snip
 > I eventually checked the accelerator pump, and found the tiny tube
 > emitting into the barrel, just next to the choke valve to be clogged.
 > To test try pulling out the choke all the way when the car starts
 > 'hesitating' and keep well on the throttle. This will enrichen the fuel
 > for a noticable result.
snip
 > When I took my carb to bits, it was quite clean inside, yet the tube was
 > blokked, maybe caused by backfiring.....

Interesting you should say that because a while ago it dawned on me while
answering another reply (John O's?) that the symptoms seemed like a failed
accelerator circuit in the carb.  I wonder now if that really is what
is going on.  However, I've had no backfiring.  I wonder if some crud got
in there somehow.

I'm still a bit puzzled on why it would consistently show up at the same
mileage traveled though and not before.

Thanks for the input.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:32:31 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: An off-the-wall question

> This may sound really, really stupid, though I can't resist asking.  Will a
> Jaguar XK 6-cylinder engine fit into the bay of a Land-Rover?

I recall a photo in the SII Club newsletter of a SIII which was
identified as having a "Jaguar" engine. No idea how faulty my memory is
though. It might be an easier fit into a 6 cyl. LR.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Land Rover for sale
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:51:00 -0500

I am selling my Landrover because I never seem to find the time to do
what what it needs.
It is a 1960, 109 Station Wagon. I bought it as a project and have
only driven it in low gear. The clutch seems to be fine and the
engine idles very well and there are no unusual noises.
The front horns of the frame have some rot but I believe they would
be repairable. Replacing the horns is also an option.
The wheel stud holes had elongated so I bought some Military rims
from Paul's Safari a couple of years ago to replace them. The rims
are painted but the tires need to be transferred over.
There are spare left and right rear quarter panels, a spare rear door
and a spare left side rear door.
I also purchased enough track to replace all the window slides.
I am asking $2000 for the lot.
I can be contacted in Sarnia at (519) 541-1301. This number is both
my phone and my fax.
Larry Edmonds
Larry.Edmonds@mail.tct.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 22:54:32 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: To turn or not to turn

Peter writes:
> I need to order a new set of shoes and reinstall with turned drums

This should keep the Major busy. Why do the brake drums need to be
turned? If the drums are round and not deeply scored I don't know of any
reason to automatically turn the drums. LR in the SII manual says to
examine the drums for scoring, ovality, and skim if required. Not very
precise. Haynes says to turn if the scoring is deep, but doesn't define
deep. Neither says to always turn.

I've heard various explanations from mechanics as to why they always
turn. Most common is "the glaze" needs to be removed. The glaze is
basically a well polished steel surface, and will return a few miles
after turning the drums. Do the brakes stop working then? I question the
accuracy of many brake drum lathes.

If the drums are contaminated with oil soaking in detergent diluted with
water followed by a thorough scrubbing and rinsing will remove the oil.
Only turn if the drums are heavily scored, out of round, or turned and
worn past the max diameter.

I'm sure there are some contrary opinions.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:22:12 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

At 05:48 PM 3/13/97 -0500, you wrote:

>>Can anyone give me the rundown on what is necessary to accomplish such a 
>feat?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>rangie chassis is a good choice, but you'll have to cut it up and if you 
>want to use the 2A engine and tranny, you've got to figure out how to 

<clip>

>Parts,especially used ones, are scarce and expensive. 
>I would conservatively estimate that you'll spend 10K before all is said 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>the result will be a truck that you can use as a daily driver, tow 
>vehicle and off-roader.

 Bill,

	Thanks for the reply. Let me bounce some thoughts off you. I've been
toying with the idea for quite some time now, and here is what I've come up
with. 
	I could do a conventional frame-over. If so, I would need to overhaul my
engine (not too bad, it probably only has seal leakage at this point).
Completely change over the braking system (save for the servo, everything
is un-rebuildable). Purchase new wheels, springs, shocks, swivels (badly
pitted), steering components (again, non-salvageable), new clutch, etc. The
only items that are in decent condition are the diffs, axle casings,
ujoints, and prop shafts. Though I'd like to think the other items are
re-buildable, they aren't. Total cost... at least $5k if done right.
	A coiler would give me a better ride (subjective as I never did mind the
leaf ride that much), four wheel power disc brakes (a great asset
especially if towing another vehicle on trailer), and better off-road
prowess ('nuff said).
	ECR, as you probably know, offers a rolling coil chassis (by Designa in
the UK, previously Arrow) for $5500. That's a new galvanised chassis, and
re-built Defender running gear (everything but the brake lines). You
literally swap the body, bulkhead, engine, and tranny over. That's it. Of
course, that's probably not as smoothly as it goes, but the idea is sound.
Interestingly, the same setup goes for 2000UKP which at a rate of 1.6 to
the $$ comes out to $3200. Add at most $1000 to the shipping minus VAT and
you're still well under what ECR is distributing it for. While I believe
ECR to be mostly honourable, I think they price gouge big time, and I don't
particularly want to deal with them. Going this route would get me a IIA
coiler w/2.25L petrol engine and original transmission for well under $10k.
I have no O/D, but the lower ratio Defender diffs could compensate and road
service would be decent. I'd lose the crawling ability in 1st Lo, though,
and I don't relish the thought of swapping diffs everytime I want to go off
pavement to get around it.
	Finding a rolled Range Rover shouldn't be terribly difficult (I shouldn't
have said that), and there's a chassis, running gear, and V8 complete with
proper powertrain. The modifactions to the grille would be minor if an
electric fan is fitted, and the bulkhead needs fixin' anyway. Then I'd have
a great vehicle all around. Good highway manners, great off-roading, and
powerful towing ability. All with Series good looks. I don't particularly
relish the thought of towing another vehicle across the US with the 2.25L
petrol on Interstates. I bet a donor vehicle (post '89) wouldn't run much
more than $5k (again, I shouldn't say that).
	When you say parts are scarce and expensive, what did you mean, exactly?
What I propose is a Land Rover, but one that is radically different from
the original late SIIA. I figure my truck makes a perfect experimental
project vehicle as it is not particularly rare. Though I'd love to spend
far less than $10k, I wouldn't be adverse to keeping that figure as a
ceiling. I would, after all, have a very nice truck for $10k. I do plan to
own the truck for a good long time, and at some point I do want to pick up
a 109" and keep it stock.
	Hell, I even idly toyed with the idea of converting an 88" to a hybrid
turbine/electric toy. Daydreaming of course. Imagine it, a beautiful
turbine wail, incredible low-end torque, clean, efficient... An idea before
its time, perhaps...

											Jeff Goldman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 23:31:15 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Sorry... <was: Coiling a Series truck>

	Just realised a private reply was sent to the list by mistake which also
included a comment regarding a specific company which must be taken at face
value as I have never dealt with them directly. My apologies. Sorry for
anyone's inconvience... How embarrasing...

											Jeff Goldman

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Perkins V8 Land Rover Diesel
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 19:43:00 EST

 THE FIRST ALL-BRITISH high performance car diesel engine is being developed 
at Perkins Research and Development Centre at Peterborough jointly by 
Perkins Engines and Land Rover Limited.It is based on the 3.5 litre V8 
petrol engine used in Land Rover, Range Rover and Rover saloons.  Perkins 
have for many years been developing technology for converting petrol engines 
to diesel use.  This includes assessment of the suitability of specific 
petrol engines for conversion.  A Perkins spokesman said that the 3.5 litre 
Rover unit was basically a good engine for conversion.

"Already we have seen a dramatic improvement in the unit's fuel economy as a 
result of this conversion," the spokesman said.  "The aluminium construction 
of the engine, coupled with its 125 bhp power output at 4,000 rpm gives it a 
very high powerweight ratio which will make it suitable for other 
applications besides powering Land Rover vehicles."

The two companies are about halfway through their development programme, 
they expect to complete it by mid 1983.  Commercial production of the engine 
will then begin at the Land Rover Acocks Green, Birmingham plant which 
already has suitable facilities.

Initially it is planned to use the engine in Range Rovers and Land Rovers, 
but details will be announced nearer the launch date.

Under the terms of the deal between Perkins and Land Rover, both companies 
will be able to market the jointly developed engine.  Perkins expects to 
sell it to other equipment manufacturers who are seeking a light-weight 
diesel power unit.  Both companies foresee an increasing demand for diesel 
engined vehicles in world markets.

The above was scanned out of 4x4 Australia, September 1982.

Sorry to get you all excited.

Regards,

 Ron Beckett
 Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
 '87 Range Rover
 '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 (See pix at  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html
 '67 Hillman Gazelle

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:10:28 +0000
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

On 13 Mar 97, Jeff Goldman wrote:

>  I have a '71 88" SIIA whose chassis is in a non-salvagable
> condition.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> anyone give me the rundown on what is necessary to accomplish such
> a feat?
The new LRW (or is it LROi, I get both - sad or wot!) has an 
article on just this topic!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 17:37:44 -500
Subject: Re: Coiling a Series truck

Bill,
Regarding your post about coiling vs "frameover", is "frameover" 
renewing the frame as original (leaf)?  You mention that the 
"frameover" allows a truck that you can use as a daily driver, tow 
vehicle ands off-roader.  Does the coiler not give you as much?  

I am not an advocate of coilers, but last year read lots of East Coast 
Rover literature on the benefits of coils over leafs.  I guess some 
of it stuck.  BTW, I was recently told that there are frames and 
then there are FRAMES.  Many makers, not all of same quality?  
Might this explain why when looking at a new galvanized Arrow 
frame, I was surprised at how thin the box section walls felt.
Mark

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 17:39:40 -500
Subject: Re: Richard Kaplan

Adrian et al.,
The Kaplan triangle.  How will I know thee?
Thanks for the info.  Mark

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