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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 06:50:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Series Electronic Ignition

Re: Electronic Ignitions:

First off, there are several of them. I've personally used a Crane unit

bad sensor after a year. Now, I've got a Pertronix ignitor in its place -
no external box, installs with one screw and a fitted cap on the cam -
simple and only $70.

The only bug is that you need to extend its wiring harness to fit it to the
coil - but that's 2 wires and an extra 10 minutes before you install it.

I recommend the Pertronix unit - it's much less complex to install than the
Crane or Luminition units, and doesn't use an optical rig - it's magnetic.

Re:Condensation:

If you've got a PCV, I'd suggest the hose to the carb. base is clogged -
what this is is condensation from combustion blow-by. it's not really
harmful, but does indicate thet the PCV isn't working right. Check the hose
between the PCV valve and the carb body, and run a wire through the metal
line to the oil-filler tube, as that's probably grunged-up too.

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 06:26:31 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap

Hi Keith,
 I am far from a purist but so few of the NADA LR were made that I would 
tell him to reconsider all of that work converting to a 4 cylinder &
just buy one.  If the NADA is savable let someone else get it. 
-- 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 07:41:31 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: White gunk in oil filler tube??????

condensation in the engine oil filler
> tube and the breather(PCV valve) on top of the valve cover. Both of these
> on my truck are filled with white oil/gunk. I can't figure out why this is
> happening, I wasn't in any water! It is also happening to a few other LR's
> from around here.

I had a fright when I brought my recently purchased Rover home this
weekend.There seemed to be ice in the dip tube and water around the oil
fill cap on the rocker panel.
I do recall seeing someone mention here previously however that it was
probably condensation.

LRW says...One gallon of burnt fuel produces about one gallon of
water,and if the engine is not very hot when it's shut down this water
will condense and stay inside the engine...

I don't have the cure but I'd say this is the cause.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 07:40:02 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Def 2-Piece Doors 

     I've been thinking about acquiring the 2-piece doors, not for my Ser 
     II, but to replace the 1-piece doors on the Def SW.  I guess beluga 
     black could be resprayed coniston green without much trouble, but what 
     about door latch and locks?  Hopefully the locks could be rekeyed to 
     match my rear door, that is, if I hypothetically executed such a plan. 
      
     Now that we've learned that very early Ser II SWs had a 1-piece front 
     door, has anyone heard of 2-piece middle doors for Series 109 SWs??  
     
     Hank
     1960 Long SW
     1997 Short SW

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 07:41:16 EST
Subject: Re: Pinion Oil Seals

> They have two spring wires, one on either side,...Part # is FRC4586. What say 
>yea?

>Con Seitl

Yah, is just like zee ones I get from Roving Norths...

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 20:42:08 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: White Gunk

Don MacDonald wrote:
> Has anyone ever had a problem with condensation in the engine oil filler
> tube and the breather(PCV valve) on top of the valve cover. Both of these
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> New Project: Tremclad Green 1964 Series IIA (soon to be coil sprung deluxe!!)
> -----------------------------------------------

Hi Don:
  The white gunk is probably what I have around my filler tube as well. 
Seems to be a bit of blow-by with mine, in fact, it's got so bad it has 
crept through all parts of the engine and appears at the air breather 
hose via the crank vent. It is now sitting patiently outside my garage 
waiting for the engine I'm building for it.
  
 Con Seitl
 1973 88 III "Pig"
 1962 88 II  "Millie"

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:45:08 +0100 (MET)

Hi Rob,
| Hi Keith,
I'm Franz but that doesn't matter too much ;-)

|  I am far from a purist but so few of the NADA LR were made that I would 
| tell him to reconsider all of that work converting to a 4 cylinder &
| just buy one.  If the NADA is savable let someone else get it. 
Not sure if it's a NADA since I'm in Germany. The whole car is in good
condition, as I said.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:07:50 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap

At 13:45 97-03-11 +0100, you wrote:

>Not sure if it's a NADA since I'm in Germany. The whole car is in good
-condition, as I said.
>Not sure if it's a NADA since I'm in Germany. The whole car is in good
It would be very surprising! Your friend will also have to make a custom
gearbox-cover-panel. The bulkhead of the 6 cyl is different than the 4 cyl
one. Also, he will need the 4 cyl gearstick, since they are different. He
will need a set of 4-cyl driveshafts, and have to do some mods to the
handbrake mechanism. Since the gearbox moves forward a bit, everything does!

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 07:47:25 -0500
Subject: Re: White gunk in oil filler tube??????

Re: Ice in the dip tube:

There's supposed to be an O-ring around the top of the dip tube that seals
to the oil-check spear thingy.....8*)

Replace the O-ring, and your ice will go away.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:23:53 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Pinion seals

> Got from the UK today 4 Pinion Oil Seals, Rover type. They are different than 
>what I expected. They have two spring wires, one on either side, unlike say
a hub oil 
>seal with wire on one side.

These are the newer type double lipped oil seals, and are more effective
than the earlier variety. They should fit without any bother (flat side out).

Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:06:12 -0500 (EST)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>

 Philipe Carchon writes :- 
My lightweight runs on LPG and petrol. Now the question:
Since two months, when running on LPG: difficult to accelerate, slows down 
when driving on a (steep) hill.
When switching to petrol: engine turns off. Unable to drive on it. 
Petrol arrives to the carb (this is not the problem). so I thought a carb 
problem but LPG uses only a very small part of it (almost nothing). Could it 
be something else (valves,...)?

There are two distinct problems here. With LPG the flow of gas is controlled
by a regulator. Setting the regulator is like setting a carburretor, it is
best done with a gas analyzer to check the exhaust gases. I would recomend
that you go to a tuner who is familiar with LPG. There may also be a filter
in the gas line to prevent rust etc from the tank being passed into the
regulator, if dirt is in the filter this may inhibit the flow of gas.

  The Solex carburretor does not like being left without petriol in it.
There is a rubber O ring between the top and the base, this O ring is below
the float level. When left without fuel the o ring dries out and shrinks.
Thus when fuel is added the fuel can leak past the O ring directly into the
induction tract, thus completely upseeting the air fuel ratio and causing
rich running.

 The other point you make, if the engine has been run for years on LPG the
valve seats may have suffered ( LPG does not have any lead, it is therefore
like running on unleaded gasoline ) , a compression test will reveal the
state of the bores and the valves.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:07:38 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: white gunk sources

Fundamentally, the white gunk is water mixed with oil. If the dipstick looks 
like normal oil (no white gunk), then it isn't harming the engine.
This is a common time of year for it to appear in engines that get driven 
only short distances because the air is humid and temperatures are still 
cool (folks in warmer/drier climates may not experience this). This can 
result in lots more condensation than during the rest of the year. A good 
(working) PCV valve will help. Different oils are more sensitive (Penzoil 
being teh worst one I have experienced, Castrol seeming to be relatively 
insensitive). If the oil isn't heating up enough to vaporize the water, it 
keeps collecting until it is visible.
Suggestions: Verify that the PCV valve is working. Take it for a long drive. 
Change the oil (always a good idea). Make a note of it, then ignore it and 
see if it goes away. Listen to someone else's suggestions.

Cheers,
JohnO

>Has anyone ever had a problem with condensation in the engine oil filler
>tube and the breather(PCV valve) on top of the valve cover. Both of these
>on my truck are filled with white oil/gunk. I can't figure out why this is
>happening, I wasn't in any water! It is also happening to a few other LR's
>from around here.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:37:34 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Def 2-Piece Doors 

Hank asked:

>     Now that we've learned that very early Ser II SWs had a 1-piece front 
>     door, has anyone heard of 2-piece middle doors for Series 109 SWs?? 

The Series I 107 station wagons had two-piece back doors (middle doors) but
not 109s, as far as I've ever seen.  I have seen fabricated/modified ones.
If you're going to take the top off the 109 SW, you'll also need fabricated
two-piece B-pillars and this can be done as well.  The 107 also had these
but they were much wider than the 109 pillars.  To do all this on the 109
and not have it rattle like a bucket of bolts would probably require some
extra and custom bracing, such as a roll-cage with braces to the pillars and
posts.  I see no good reason why one could not also fabricate a two-piece
rear door.

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:44:04 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:ice in dip tube

> Re: Ice in the dip tube:
> There's supposed to be an O-ring around the top of the dip tube that seals
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Replace the O-ring, and your ice will go away.
>                          ajr
Thanks,
I've a couple of spares here and one will be sure to have the "o" ring.
I'm on holiday this week and I'm currenty changing the fliuds so I'll
drain everything,refill and pop on a new "o" ring!
Regards,
Steve  (90 weight newbie)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:01:03 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap

> Is there anybody out there who has done a similar swap?
> Thanks for your comments,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Franz Parzefall        

All I can say is that on my NADA ,which is probably not too far removed
from the Rover in Germany,the P.O. had some problems with the original 6
cylinder.
The transmission remained in place,all original transmission covers etc.
stayed,and the four cylinder 2.25 that was installed had  "custom 
made" motor mount extensions (2 chunks of bar stock steel about 5" long
x 1/2" thick and 1" wide with a hole drilled in either end) to bridge
the gap back to the engine.(not pretty but functional for a farmer)
The only problem I can see in this is that the engine mounts should have
been welded on the frame in the correct location to avoid embarrasment
at your garage/Rover meets and the possiblity of the engine dropping out
would be a concern as well.
Also the owners manual I have shows the bellhousings to be visually
exactly the same as for the 6 cyl. and 4.
The custom motor mounts have laid to rest in my trash bin.
Regards,
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:09:32 -0500
From: mak@aretha.jax.org (Mark Kandutsch)

I am wondering whether the metric tire size 235/85-16 is relly the right
size for a Series 2A 88 .    Can anyone help me?   My address is
mak@jax.org.     My name is Mark Kandutsch.   Thank You.   MAK

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:02:05 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: 109 2 pieces was Re: Def 2-Piece Doors 

Granville Pool wrote:
> snip
> Hank asked:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> posts.  I see no good reason why one could not also fabricate a two-piece
> rear door.

Interesting thread consdering I've been planning just this issue for some
time for a conversion on my 109SW.  I currently have a set of  both 
solid 1 piece front doors and the middle doors taken from a '59 SII wreck.
The middle doors will convert reasonably well to removable tops.  If you look
at the construction, the top is actually welded onto the base at a location
(if memory serves) that matches the point at which the front windows join the 
door.  Cutting the door at this level would produce a reasonable looking 
conversion.  There are two issues as I see it.  One, the removed upper half
with the glass will have to be modified as will the base by attaching bolts/studs
and drilling holes for attachment like the front.  This is probably not a big
issue.  Tricker is dealing with the galvanized trim in a cosmetically acceptable
manner.  The mid door trim does not extend across the entire door.  What might be
appropriate is to find (buy? are they available?) the trim for the front door
and attach it to the cut middle door.  Of course you'll also have to remove the
skin, trim, and reattach it.

As Granny points out, IF you're looking at making the 109SW into a full convertable
you're also going to have to deal with the door pillars.  There are a couple of basic
approaches as I see it.  1: cut the pillars and weld/fabricate appropriate reattachment
points for conversion back to a hard top.  I don't find this terribly appealing.  2:
Fabricate a brace to sturdy the pillars in the absence of a top.  This is more appealing
and can be made both cosmetic and practical by fabricating a roll bar to attach to the 
pillars.  One possible attachment point is the bolt areas for the cross 
brace/handle/"passenger head cracker" behind the front seats.  This wouldn't
provide the true strength of a roll bar however.  To really brace the set up
you'd probably have to look at a slightly tweaked bar layout bolted just
behind the seat box in the area of the door restrainer bracket - a tight,
messy area. 

If/when I make this modification I'm seriously considering a box roll cage tied
over the middle door down to the rear box/frame.  This would provide reasonable
protection for the occupants, be hidden by the hardtop configuration, and look 
fairly reasonble with the top of and window down :) It would also serve as a nice
mounting point for inertial reel shoulder harnesses.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 19:19:03 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: PCV???

What is the PCV? Is this just a tube from the oil filler tube to the
carb throat? What does it do? How does it work? Is it of benefit, or am
I better off without it?

Any opinions on this one?
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 10:40:14 -0800
From: "Tom Gross [ESRI-Redlands]" <tgross@esri.com>
Subject: Re: White gunk in oil filler tube??????

Re: White gunk

I have the same problem with my VW.  It happens when the weather
is damp and cool and I don't drive very far.  Evidently the
engine doesn't get hot enough to drive off all the water
that condenses around the breather.  The water mixes with
the oil and makes the white guky looking foam.  That's a
theory anyway.  

Tom Gross

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:01:14 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: 109 2 pieces was Re: Def 2-Piece Doors 

Jeremy,

I once (with the help of someone who can weld!) converted the bottom part of
an [already-cut] one-piece front door to the bottom section of a two-piece
set.  I had a very wrecked two-piece door bottom that had the skin caved in,
as well as another badly twisted one.  We removed the capping and cut the
box-section part off the top of the two piece door(s) and welded the box
section onto the upper part of the bottom of the one-piece door, then added
the standard capping.  I've always figured that you could do the same with
parts from two-piece front doors to convert back doors (as you said),
including the lower frame of the front door-tops for the rear door tops.  I
have some rusty two-piece doors around from which some parts might be
salvaged (we'd have to look and see what's salvagable).  At least the
cappings, eh?  I don't remember if I ever measured or not but assume that
the rear (middle) doors are no longer (or wider if you will) than the front
ones.  I also have some other cappings that came off the rear lower body of
an 88 that could perhaps be canabalized in a pinch.

>2: Fabricate a brace to sturdy the pillars in the absence of a top.  This is 
>more appealing and can be made both cosmetic and practical by fabricating a 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
>fairly reasonble with the top of and window down :) It would also serve as a 
>nice mounting point for inertial reel shoulder harnesses.

Now that you remind me, this is rather along the lines of what I'd figured
would work best.  Another thought would be to do a front external cage (a la
NAS D90 except designed so that the windscreen can be--duh--folded!!) that
would have its inside/outside nexis through the upper B-pillar which stays
on when you remove the top, with the inside hoop rearward of this and with
braces coming forward to the B-pillars for the interface, then the next hoop
inside in the C-pillar area (allowing inertia-reel shoulder belts for the
rear, too), with braces back to the rear of the cargo box area.  All hoops
looping in at the bottom so that they are mounted to the frame rails, of course.

Not only does the external hoop in the front give that extra protection in
the crucial front cab area and help protect the vital windscreen in a
roll-over, but also serves as partial tree-rubbing bars for the protection
of the roof.  Would also make it pretty easy to have a full safari rack that
could either come off with the roof or stay on (rear with dual ladders
behind roof, again, as with the one available for the D90).   Okay, it would
have to come off to get the roof off but could go back on.  Or, again, you
could have a little front-only rack as with the D90, which would not even
have to be removed to get the roof off.  Or a two-part rack.....

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:17:19 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: PCV???

Adrian asked:

>What is the PCV? Is this just a tube from the oil filler tube to the
>carb throat? What does it do? How does it work? Is it of benefit, or am
>I better off without it?

Actually, it's PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve.  Its part of a
closed crankcase ventilation system whose purpose is to eliminate blow-by
emissions by having the crankcase fumes vented into the air-flow back into
the carburettor.  If you remove the PCV valve, or if it fails, and the vent
lines are still connected to the carb, you'll have a nasty trail of smoke
wherever you go!  

If you change the ventilation so that it does not go into the carb and
eliminate the PCV valve, you will have the open crankcase ventilation that
cars used to have.  If your vehicle is subject to emission regulations, this
will, of course, be illegal.  But there is another benefit to having
positive crankcase ventilation (as Jim "a River Runs Through it" Russell
will attest!).  This system is essential to protection of the engine from
water contamination of the motor oil when deep-water fording.  Won't be much
use to have a snazzy Mantec snorkel on your Rover if your crankcase
ventilation is atmospheric (unless it, too, vents into the snorkle).

Granny

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 14:08:55 -0500
Subject: Cam bearings - anyone done these lately?

In opening up my spare engine yesterday, I discovered that the cam bearings
as well as the cam are shot...8*(.

Anybody done these lately on a 2.25 - and more to the point do they still
have to be reamed to size?

If not, I can make a setting tool easily enough from the dead cam...

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:49:43 +0000
From: Tim Burt <Tim@stagesupplies.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Billing 97 preparations

In message <bulk.19004.19970311002043@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Thorsten
Klein <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de> writes

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>Thorsten Klein
>SIII Ltwt "Scotti"

Yes, I agree a sticker on the vehicles would be great !   I will be
arriving on Thursday PM.

--Tim Burt  -  SIII 88" - XUO 968K
http://www.stagesupplies.demon.co.uk - Funky LR pages

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:49:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cam bearings - anyone done these lately?

In a message dated 97-03-11 15:43:58 EST, you write:

<< Anybody done these lately on a 2.25 - and more to the point do they still
 have to be reamed to size?
 
 If not, I can make a setting tool easily enough from the dead cam...
  >>

Hi Al,

I was talking to Charlie at RN about bearings in general who says that a
machine shop should put cam bearings in because they need to be reamed to
size AND must match from front to back.  Main and connecting rod bearings can
be done in the comfort of your garage without reaming (if you use the newer
style bearings)  Sorry.

Nate (Did you try using a slide hammer?)
NADdMD@aol.com 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm">Blue Brick Rover Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:12:18 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Dunsfold LR

Refering to the Dunsfold LR Trust Tim writes:
> Yes, the museum is open to the public, many LR Clubs also do pre-
> arranged visits to the museum, (eg. Series 3 club).

Has something changed in the last year or so? When I was last at
Dunsfold Land Rover, most of the trust collection was scattered about
where storage space was available. The collection was only assembled at
Dunsfold once or twice a year. BTW Dunsfold LR is a parts and service
business, well worth patronizing, though I don't know if they are
involved in any lawsuits. 

They do have an interesting collection of old Land Rovers on site, many
are parts vehicles and several are awaiting restoration. If you're there
to patronize the business they don't seem to mind you looking around
outside. Dunsfold LR is located just outside the "village" of Dunsfold.
Dunsfold is south of Guilford in Surrey.

Other museums with Land Rover collections worth visiting are the British
Motor Heritage Trust at Gaydon, frequently visited by clubs with 20 or
so LRs, and the Museum of Army Transport in Beverly with a number of
military LRs.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:16:46 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 109 2 pieces was Re: Def 2-Piece Doors 

At 11:02 AM 3/11/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Fabricate a brace to sturdy the pillars in the absence of a top.  This is
more appealing
>and can be made both cosmetic and practical by fabricating a roll bar to
attach to the 

I'll bet that would look great with or without the top on!  Go for it!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:30:22 -0600
From: Grant Gryska <grant@mcs.net>
Subject: cancelation

I have been trying to cancel my subscription to all of the land rover 
newsgroups.  And have done it unsuccessfully.  If you could cancel my 
subsciption, that would be great.
My email address is Grant@mcs.net

Thanks
Grant

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:38:57 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Dunsfold LR

At 06:12 PM 3/11/97 -0500, David Cockey wrote:
:Dunsfold LR is located just outside the "village" of Dunsfold.
:Dunsfold is south of Guilford in Surrey.

 OK!

 The only meaningful description to those outside of the
 UK is the distance and bearing from London.  %-)

-Michael
                           (We'll pardon your ignorance, MC!)
                       ______ /
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:00:30 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: PCV???

>>What is the PCV? Is this just a tube from the oil filler tube to the
>carb throat? What does it do? How does it work? Is it of benefit, or am
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>--
>Adrian Redmond

        PCV stands for "Positive Crankcase Ventilation." The unit uses
metered engine vacuum to purge combustion gasses (the inevitable blowby
from the rings)from the crankcase. The gasses enter the intake manifold and
are burned by the engine.It's a benificial device, keeping the crancase
cleaner. Also, negative pressure in the crankcase has a benificial (though
minutely) effect on power. Pistons moving downward have less resistance in
a negative pressure environment. Racers use a device called a "vac-u-pan"
to create serious negative pressure and claim 15hp at high rpms (6-7000).
        On Series vehicles, the gulp valve type PVCs with a diaphram are
cranky.The diaphram rots sometimes sticks, both of which cause idle
problems.  The device is fully fuctional only under low vacuum situations.
The Euro versions fed gasses directly into the intake manifold at #3 cyl
and some plug fouling was evident. The USA PCVs fed into a carb base that
mixed the gasses with the incoming charge of air and fuel.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 01:16:01 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: PCV???

Jim Allen wrote:
>         PCV stands for "Positive Crankcase Ventilation." The unit uses
> metered engine vacuum to purge combustion gasses (the inevitable blowby
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> mixed the gasses with the incoming charge of air and fuel.
>         Jim Allen
Does that mean that you can just connect a rubber hose from the oil
filler PCV connection to the carb PCV connection, or must there be
something else in between? Just curious!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
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---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 16:25:35 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: U.K Atlas, was  Dunsfold LR

Michael Carradine wrote:
> At 06:12 PM 3/11/97 -0500, David Cockey wrote:
> :Dunsfold LR is located just outside the "village" of Dunsfold.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>  Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
>  Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
>  510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

May I make a suggestion for those who plan on going to the U.K. this
year. Go to a large newsagents and buy the Road Atlas for Great Britain.
It covers the entire island in great detail. I had one in Wales and
asked the owner of the B&B I was staying at about the Roman ruins as
shown on the map. He knew nothing of them, but they were there non the
less. 
It like the Delorme State Atlas for a particular state, good detail. If
you want I can dig it out of my pile of reference books and post the
name and publisher.

Tom

2 x 72 88's daily driver and it's revolving parts doner
1 x 67 88   in the family since 5 / 75 , mine since 6 / 76

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:30:13 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: PCV???

>Does that mean that you can just connect a rubber hose from the oil
>filler PCV connection to the carb PCV connection, or must there be
>something else in between? Just curious!
>--
>Adrian Redmond

There has to be a metering device of some type. The diaphram "gulp" type
was one, a spring loaded piston is another and a fixed orfice is yet
another. The spring-loaded piston type, common on many American cars, is
the easiest to install but the unit must be sized to the size of the engine
(i.e. a unit built to meter for a 440cid V8 is too large for a 2.25L).
Also, you need to have a filtered fresh air supply, usually taken from the
clean side of the air filter or with a seperate filter. With a 2.25L fresh
air is drawn in from the top of the engine via a hose attached between the
breather cab and the air cleaner elbow. The PVC draws from the fitting at
the bottom of the oil filler tube. In order for it to work, you have to
have the "twist and clip" type oil cap (most later engines do).

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 97 19:45:05 EST
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Dunsfold Land Rover Museum

Somebody (sorry can't remember who), asked about DLR.

Although they are happy for you to go and see them, they do not keep many of the
museum vehicles at their premises.

Friends of the trust and others keep the museum vehicles at their homes around
the country and they only gather together for the open days one a year. (might
be twice - I can't remember)

If you're down this way and fancy some local off-roading get in touch.

Regards

Richard
Surrey UK
77 Range Rover
81 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 97 19:44:57 EST
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: D90 gas tanks

Hi all

John asked about D90 auxillary tanks.

I've just realised that this should perhaps be on the CSO list, but I think that
the original question was asked on this list.

I replied to a query on the Compuserve  4 x 4 forum a little while
ago...................

If you want to fit an auxillary tank on a US D90, you should fit a standard Uk
tank (UK D90s have the fuel tank under the drivers seat).

The size is 33 inches long by 14 inches wide by 13 inches tall.  These are
approximate total measurements as there are a number of chamfers on the tank to
clear mounts etc.

The front of the tank attaches to a bracket which bolts onto the chassis around
the front radius arm rear bush. This bracket is available from Land Rover in the
UK.  The rear of the tank attaches to the jacking beam, and the beam is shaped
to accept this mount.  If you can see odd brackets on your jacking beam, they
will be for the tank.  If your beam is circular, you will have to fabricate
mounts.

The fuel inlet is at the back of the tank, with the filler being in between the
driver's door (RHD) and the wheelarch.

Side mounted fuel tanks are illegal in the US so if you do it it is up to you.

Land Rover have reduced the price of these tanks from 260 pounds to 90 pounds. -
In tank pump remains at around 260 pounds though.  The front bracket is
available, but they did not have the rear bracket listed. 

The part numbers for the major components are:

Tank NTC 2088 - price 72.68 UKP

Front Bracket NRC 9474 - 6.66 UKP

Fuel Level Unit  STC 1139 - 32.93 UKP

Fuel Pump  PRC 8318 - 214.06 UKP

As I said in my previous message, the rear bracket is integral with the jacking
beam in the UK.  I don't know whether US spec vehicles use the same beam.

He also spoke to Land Rover UK about this and they will not be offering an
additional tank option in the US.

Pipework will have to be made specially for the vehicle by a specialist. - UK
D90s are not EFI and therefore do not use the same fuel lines -  the US spec EFI
runs at a much greater fuel presure.

You will also have to connect up to your evaporative loss system which again we
do not have.

The above prices were obtained about six months ago so I cannot vouch for their
accuracy now.  Let me know if you want them updated.

Thinking about it again, it would probably be easier for you to run a transfer
pipe and return between the two tanks, keeping the main tank topped up with a
low pressure fuel pump from the aux tank.  This would get around the headache of
plumbing in another high pressure system.  It would also save bundles on fuel
pump prices.

Hope this helps

Regards

Richard

Surrey UK
77 Range Rover
81 Range Rover 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 16:08:35 -0900
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@Alaska.NET>
Subject: American Racing Wheels

I just discovered that American Racing has an Aluminum wheel with the 5
on 6.5" Rover bolt pattern.  It is the AR23 model which is a 5 spoke
design. The only size available is 16 x 7.  Backspacing is 3.75".  I
called a local vendor and they confirmed this info and quoted a price of
just under $130.  I have no plans on buying any wheels in the near
future but thought that others might find this info usefull.

Tim Sitter
Peters Creek, Alaska

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:06:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Rao <ncavwc@nicom.com>
Subject: Distributor Advance

I'm putting a distributor in the Rover this weekend and am curious about the
advance mechanisms.  There is a degree number stamped on the plate attached
to the bottom of the cam.  The old distributor had 18 degrees the new piece
says 21 degrees.  Is this the limit of the initial vacuum advance or what?
Also is there any advantage to one versus the other.  It seems to me that
you might shift the torque curve up or down in the RPM range but there
should be no other significant effects.  Is that right?  I also have another
spare cam that is stamped 25 degrees.  The 18 deg. piece is pretty chewed up
so I'm looking to install the 21 or 25 deg part.  Any suggestions? Or does
it really matter?

Thanks

Dan Rao
'63 109" Station Wagon, 2.25 Petrol

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:53:15 -0800 (PST)
From: nicholas harteau <panic@construct.net>

subscribe

-- 
nicholas harteau        the funny thing about regret is..
panic@construct.net       it's better to regret something you have done..
panic@retro.geeklab.com     than something you haven't. -b.s.

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:03:13 -0500
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap

swap in another six cylinder motor - the BMW turbodiesel might be a
good choice - should be available where you are

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 11:36:02 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: White gunk in oil filler tube??????

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> Re: Ice in the dip tube:
> There's supposed to be an O-ring around the top of the dip tube that seals
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Replace the O-ring, and your ice will go away.
>                          ajr

I would think it was a little more than that. On my 2.25 , I had the guck 
at the top of the oil filler tube coming out under pressure, it was also 
making its way into the air breather hose and into carb were-upon it was 
icing and fouling. I'm not talking just a little bit either. A trip to 
Halifax from here ( about 50 Kms ) would be enough to stop me. Diagnosis 
was worn engine allowing combustion to bypass the rings and into the 
crankcase, hence a new engine to be fitted.
 
Con Seitl
1973 88 III "Pig"
1962 88 II  "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 19:36:24 -0800
From: Irv Berteig <berteig@accessone.com>
Subject: 2.6L Valve Cover Gasket

Hello,

I have a problem that has occurred more than twice -- so it is time to ask
for advice.  My 2.6L (6 cylinders) intake valve cover is long, narrow, and
undulates back and forth and around each of the spark plugs.  I have had to
cut my own gaskets since I don't think they are available any longer -- but
that is not the problem (or is it?).  The problem is slippage along the
undulating spark plug run resulting in oil flowing out, filling the nearest
spark plug well, and ultimately onto the ground.

Too much crankcase pressure?  Bad rings?  Compression is a bit low but even.
I am using a cork impregnated with rubber gasket material.  I usually cement
the gasket to the cover and then place the assembly on the head - sometimes
dry and sometimes greased.  After a couple months, either way the gasket
will begin to move out, ultimately enough to let oil pass.

A mechanic friend (non-Rover) advises using contact cement rather than
automotive gasket adhesives.  Please let me hear your advice.  We are
getting some 1 - 2 hour breaks in the rain here in Seattle, and I want to
get out.

Thanks

Irv
http://www.accessone.com/~berteig

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:06:47 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Cab Mounting(for my Pick-Up)

Hi all!
     My cab is mounted on my Rover but I have a space along the rear 
window above the seat bulkhead. Is there an adapter plate to fit this 
space( about 2" ) or is the bulkhead meant to be different for a Pick Up?
Any help would be appreciated.
     Nick Seitl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 23:15:56 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Cab Mounting(for my Pick-Up)

At 12:06 97-03-11 -0800, you wrote:

>Hi all!
>     My cab is mounted on my Rover but I have a space along the rear 
>window above the seat bulkhead. Is there an adapter plate to fit this 
-space( about 2" ) or is the bulkhead meant to be different for a Pick Up?
>Any help would be appreciated.
>     Nick Seitl
>window above the seat bulkhead. Is there an adapter plate to fit this 
-

You have a 109 cab fitted on an 88. The 88 came with an adapter plate that
is fairly hard to find. Must be a part number though to order it from UK.
Ideas, anyone?

You could probably fabricate one fairly easily. I have one on a dead 88 that
I could check the measurements.

Let me know if I can help, 

Salutations, 

Michel
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:30:19 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Cab Mounting(for my Pick-Up)

Michel Bertrand wrote:
> At 12:06 97-03-11 -0800, you wrote:
> >Hi all!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> 1973 88 SW (21st century project)             \        /
>                                                \______/  Michel;  I didn't think there was a difference between the 109 cab and 
an 88 cab. In fact, I didn't know that there were different cabs made! I 
will try to locate a mount plate in one of our catalogues here, if not , 
try to make one with dads (Con) help.
  Thanks, Nick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 00:29:14 -0500
From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: Re: Cab Mounting(for my Pick-Up)

There is a plate that covers this gap. I had the same problem about a year
or so ago and bought a new one from RN for about 80 bucks. You will also
need some spacers that go between the cab and the plate where the bolts
pass through. I just cut them out of SS pipe. 

I think you could make a plate that would work, but in the end I felt that
it was easier to just buy a new one and not mess with making one. I already
had enough projects going on anyway.

Rob

At 12:06 PM 3/11/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi all!
>     My cab is mounted on my Rover but I have a space along the rear 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Any help would be appreciated.
>     Nick Seitl
  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     RobD@UnitedParking.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1996 Discovery
  [_______________________]     1963 MB Unimog 404.1
     EEEI           EEEI

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:39:10 +0000
Subject: Re:  wheel/tyre size on a 2A SWB

On 11 Mar 97, Mark Kandutsch wrote:

> I am wondering whether the metric tire size 235/85-16 is relly the
> right size for a Series 2A 88 .    Can anyone help me?

I've got 235/85-16 Mud Terrain tyres on my SIII 109.

They are a tad wide (makes the steering heavier & adds a 
foot-or-two to the turning circle) but look quite purposefull!

For the SWB, you should, technically, be using the 15" rims.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Dunsfold LR
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 9:06:27 GMT

> Other museums with Land Rover collections worth visiting are the British
> Motor Heritage Trust at Gaydon, frequently visited by clubs with 20 or
> so LRs, and the Museum of Army Transport in Beverly with a number of
> military LRs.

Beverley is no more. I've seen this reported in both LROi and the latest
copy of the ex-mil. LR assoc. newsletter.
The museum depended on a small grant from the local county council. This
split with the recent re-organsiation, and the new council only gave them
a 6 month interim grant. The collection will probably be broken
(its been transported somewhere, although I forget where), and the vehicle
cards will be moved. They should eventually be accessible, but I don't think
a home has been found yet. (sounds like there are a number of museums which
may look after them).

Shame I never made it there.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:29:30 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Dunsfold LR

>(its been transported somewhere, although I forget where),

Somewhere in Cumberland,I gather.Could be Warcop?

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: need some info on 6-cyl. to 4-cyl swap
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:42:17 +0100 (MET)

Thanks so far for your replies.
There seem to be two basic possibilities:
1)Leave the gear box where it is and set the 4 banger a bit more to
the rear than it normally sits.
2)Move the gear box forward where it is when in the 4 cyl. is set in
by LR.
Both will require a new bellhousing <right?> and probably some clutch parts.
Does anyone know for sure which?

Possibility 1 will result in a custom made exhaust and new engine mounts.
Possibility 2 will result in new engine and gearbox mounts, new drive shafts,
new gearbox cover etc. This seems a bit more expensive.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 12:35:22 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Cab Mounting(for my Pick-Up)

Con P. Seitl wrote:
> Hi all!
>      My cab is mounted on my Rover but I have a space along the rear
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Any help would be appreciated.
>      Nick Seitl
Difficult to say without knowing what cab (series) and what truck - I
think that the pick-up cabs and bulkheads from SII, IIa and III are all
compatible (I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong here!) - I
have what I think is a Series II(a?) pick up cab which fits ok on my
SIII's - there should not be a gap between cab and bulkhead.

If the windscreen is folded fully up and fixed, and the box on the back
is properly mounted (which is difficult to get wrong) the cab should
mate perfectly.

Good luck, let us know the outcome...
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

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