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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 14:00:30 +-100

G. Mugele[SMTP:mewgull@ix.netcom.com] wrote:
David Glaser said:

I believe this was in response to a query about using a Defender 
windscreen on a Series LR.

Unless I'm misunderstanding the question, this is not a direct bolt-on 
nad not likely to work very well.  The Defender windscreen is about 3 or 
4 inches taller than the Series.  One local chap (San Francisco Bay Area) 
has a nice modification to his late IIa.  He has removed the center 
divider and uses a single pane for the whole frame.  Even better: it 
maintains the original LR beauty and aerodynamic integrity :-)

Yes, I think You are right, but wasn't the question 
about the open/softtop version?

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment Removed, was 44 lines.]	end

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 07:08:53 -0500
From: The Richards <smrm@coastalnet.com>
Subject: Rover 3500s available

I have been asked to repost, since digest cut-up first posting. Please
contact Jim (e-mail below). These cars are in Calif. . .Michael, New Bern, NC 

I am still in the
process of bringing 2 of the  5 Rover 3500s (not SD1) cars out of the
backwoods.  Also, open to potential enthusiasts willing to "adopt" either
entire Rover cars or engines (all non running, no distributors, all a/t,
some have original SU carbs and manifolds).  This inventory is too much for
my shop space, but I couldn't stand to see them continue to rust and rot
away in the forest!

Jim Boyd <gumby@joshuanet.com>
Paradise, CA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 14:02:02 +0100
From: u940470@studbo.hit.no (Bengt M Tovslid)
Subject: Santana gearbox

A friend of mine are going to buy an LR 110. This car have a Santana 
gearbox. There is a noise when he drive in 1,2,3 and 5 gear. What will it 
cost to change the bearing that make this noise?

Bengt 

Norway

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 08:08:43 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

At 22:58 97-03-05 -0500, you wrote:

>HOWDY ! I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO
>FAR , I HOPE YOU WILL BEAR W/ME AS I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING
-SUSPENSION LIFT AS I WOULD LIKE AN EXTRA INCH OR TWO BETWEEN BELLE'S CROSS
>MEMBERS AND THOSE NASTY HARD THINGS, I'M CURRENTLY RUNNING 30 X 9.5 TIRES AND
>DONT CARE TO CHANGE TIRES/LOW GEAR RATIO ANY FURTHER {i.e. 7.5 X 16 TIRES }
>ANY SUGGESTIONS  ?  
-
>MEMBERS AND THOSE NASTY HARD THINGS, I'M CURRENTLY RUNNING 30 X 9.5 TIRES AND
Hello Allan, 

Since Belle is the SWB, I do not recommend putiing the military shackles
which is the only option I know to lift a truck. These shackles were
designed for a 109 with a military frame. I have some on my standard frame
and haven't experienced any downsides yet. I am supposed to ruin
drive-shafts faster than the usual, though since the angles have changed. On
a SWB, the drive shafts are to0 small. 

It does give a stiffer ride though. You can put 7.50 X 16 tires if you have
16" rims, preferably designed for a 109. The tire will seat better. 

Good luck, and welcome to the family, but we could hear you loud and clear :-)

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Circlips
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 97 13:12:18 GMT

I HATE CIRCLIPS!

I thought I'd let you all know!

Richard  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 08:17:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Circlips

You mean jesus clips.....because, as you remove them carefully from the
slot they're in, they spring loose and fly across the room, burying
themselves in the trash in the workshop.

This prompts the inevitable "Jeeeeeesus, where am I gonna get a
replacement?"......  8*)

                    aj"I agree 110% - ever work on a Selectric?"r

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gearsticks (chronology of)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 97 13:20:08 GMT

> The earlier type uses the O-ring and that type is preferred because the
> o-ring only acts as a sound and vibration damper. The later style has
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> housing.
> Jack Walter

Last night managed to dismantle the two gearsticks, and keeping the best of
both. Didn't realise there was a circlip in the bottom of the cast al. case.
Managed to get it out (eventually), but didn't have it covered, so out it
popped at high speed with the underlying washer, propelled by the spring
underneath. I had the spring covered, the second time...

Last weekend - a year ago, I purchased the truck. That weekend, I had my
first problem: the grub screw coming out of the gearstick whilst pulling
out of a roundabout onto the A1 ["can't get second/third/whatever" - did
almost 200 miles in 4th, only changing to 2nd for the QEII bridge at Dartford]

I assumed that it had merely dropped out. Well, I managed to find it lastnight.
It had come out of the hole in the casting, but had dropped into the slot
in the ball, and wedged there - just below where it should have been (ie.
letting further grubscrews to engage correctly).
Why have I had so  much trouble with this grub screw? The hole in the casting
was a little too big and unthreaded. I guess a PO had overtightened the
grubscrew. As soon as I drove it any distance...

Anyway, the new gearstick has the old level&ball, my new bracket (with hole
for reversing switch), 2ndhand casting, new o-ring (I "happened" to have
a couple of new ones lying around), and old (but re-highlighted) "handle"
ball...

Richard 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 05:23:21 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

I would like to appologise for leaving a few things out.  If a Defender
screen is fitted to a Series LR mods have to be made to the roof panel.
BUT, I he was inquiring about fitting a soft top, thats why I did not
mention modifing the roof.  

Also, If I remember correctly, did he say he got a soft top from a
Bedford?  How is going to make it fit?

David L Glaser                            '94 Disco(La Ruta Maya #6)
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu                      '94 Disco, Teal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 05:27:07 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

Thank You Bent!!  It seems you were the only one who read it carefully. 
I was referring to a soft top.

David L Glaser                           '94 Disco (La Ruta Maya #6)
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu                     '94 Disco Teal

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 97 08:16:25 EST
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

>HOWDY !

Howdy !

> I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO FAR 
>, I HOPE YOU WILL BEAR W/ME 

Only if you STOP SHOUTING!

>AS I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING SUSPENSION LIFT AS I WOULD LIKE AN 
>EXTRA INCH OR TWO BETWEEN BELLE'S CROSS MEMBERS AND THOSE NASTY HARD THINGS, 

Absolutely unnecessary unless you are doing serious rock crawling a la Moab, 
etc. But even then not so, witness Doug Shipman's 88 Hybrid Lockless Wonder. 
I have seen two different spring over axle conversions on Series Rovers. Both 
were custom jobs, one was a complete bodge which literally did nothing other 
than switch the u-bolts around(had to drill a ole in the top of the spring 
mounting pad) The next thing I noticed was the zillion point roll cage, 
installed after the 3rd time the vehicle rolled...nuff said. The second was 
an 88 with springs over axle, and the added bous safety factor of a traction 
bar in the rear, and a properly (almost) modified front relay rod for the 
steering. This one performed quite well, with the extra power from the 351 
motor under the bonnet...

>I'M CURRENTLY RUNNING 30 X 9.5 TIRES AND DONT CARE TO CHANGE TIRES/LOW GEAR 
>RATIO ANY FURTHER {i.e. 7.5 X 16 TIRES } ANY SUGGESTIONS  ?

Can't blame you for not wanting to lower the gear ratio further. 
Unfortunatley, if you want to do the kind of lift you are talking about, then 
larger tires are going to be an absolute neccesity, in order to widen the 
vehicle's track and keep it from rolling over. LArger tires will also 
effectively raise the overall gearing, which you will have to compensate for 
by adding more horsepower (read engine swap) or lower ration diff's. This is 
the problem encounteres by jeep and other 4wd owners ewhen they start by 
lifting their trucks, then find they can only go 50mph, then add new engine, 
tranny, etc, till you start breaking axles around every corner until you have 
to swap in custom cut and turned Dana 44's or 60's, and by then, well, I hate 
to say it (no I don't, actually), but you could have had Land Rover V8!!

The main reason that LR's aren't lifted is that they are already very well 
engineered for all but the most extreme terrain, and making one or two "easy" 
mods doesn't get you very much advantage over stock, and more likely will 
throw off the balance of performance between the vehicle's components.
Also they look like hell when they're lifted, and stock they're  the sexiest 
thing on or off the road. 
Keep it stock and learn to be a better driver (and wincher, etc)
 
>  ALSO , I NEVER HEARD IF A DEFENDER WIND SCREEN WOULD WORK ON A SERIES , 
>I'M VERY INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT AS I HAVE AN OLD TICKFORD SOFT TOP OFF 
>MY NEIGBORS D-90 W/THE 2 REAR SECTIONS OF THE CAGE 

The Defender Windsheild will bolt up, but you must cut off the SIII hinges. 
Then bolt on the Defender hinges. Then cut the soft-top to fit, since the 
extra wheelbase in a 90 (92.3 actually or something like that) is all in the 
rear tub area, which means that body sides, roof sides, soft tops, floor 
mats, roofs, body cappings, etc, are all longer than they would be on an 88".
Also there may be other fittings for the soft top that aren't on your 
vehicle. Take a good look at the D90 first. Cutting down the soft top should 
be done by a proffesional (kids don't try this at home!)(Hi Eric) to avoid 
future or fitting problems...
Don't know about the roll bar, but I think it would work, may need some mods. 

Cheers,
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 13:58:56 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

>has a nice modification to his late IIa.  He has removed the center 
>divider and uses a single pane for the whole frame.  Even better: it 
>maintains the original LR beauty and aerodynamic integrity :-)

One-piece screens like this (i.e rigidly mounted) tend to crack if the
vehicle leads a hard off-road life.
On the 90 & 110 one piece screens, the rubber mounting seal perishes at the
corner radii and lets in water.

Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: strange SI spotted
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 15:06:17 +0100 (MET)

Yesterday I took a closer look at a SI I recently spotted.
I never have seen a SI life, but this one looks a bit strange to
me. It has a red Austin (!) badge on the grill and the rear and a
rubber mounted two piece windscreen.The head lights are not
covered with the grill grid. 
The rest looks like the SI LWBs I saw on various pictures. 
Can anybody enlighten me what this could be?

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 09:21:09 -0400
Subject: Re: strange SI spotted

Re: Odd lookig series I;

Doesn't seem to me to be a Rover at all, but an Austin Champ!

They are quite similar, or so I've been led to believe - I've never seen an
Austin personally.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <ATREACE@hasimons.com>
Subject: 2.25L Engine Questions
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 06:45:33 -0800
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am about to begin a rebuild on the 2.25 Petrol engine in my 1966 
109SW.
I am soliciting opinions on the following topics:

Cylinder Head
 - 7:1 vs. 8:1 CR Heads, how do you tell the difference externally? Is 
it worthwhile to get a later 8:1 casting?
 - Is milling a 7:1 head an option, or sacrilege? What does Turner do 
to their heads?

Cams
 - Is the 2.5L cam a worthwhile upgrade?

Crankshaft
 - I've heard of using 2.25 Diesel cranks in Petrol engines. What are 
the advantages?

Exhaust
 - Genuine vs. Stainless Steel Aftermarket. Does anyone have 
experience with Double 'S' exhausts? I saw a picture of one of their 
systems on a Stage 1 in LRW that looked fantastic.

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC29FA.0EADDF50

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 15:00:57 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: strange SI spotted

>Re: Odd lookig series I;
>Doesn't seem to me to be a Rover at all, but an Austin Champ!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Austin personally.
>                    ajr
Sounds more like an Austin Gypsy to me,Al.Dont think anyone would
mistake a Champ for a Land Rover,whereas the Gypsy had some..er...
coincidental? resemblances.There was one parked outside a house
on the main road not far from here last year.Scruffy,but restorable.
Gone now though.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 97 15:19:35 UT
From: "DAVID MOORE" <DMOOR2E@msn.com>
Subject: RE: East Coast Rover..........here we go again!!!....delete now if 

Look "bud," what you may consider dirty linen may save others from making a 
drastic mistake with a less than honorable vendor. Hit your delete key if you 
do not care to read the linen. Part of the purpose of this list is to offer 
advice and the benefit of experience. Let it ride.

----------
From: 	Paul Oxley
Sent: 	Thursday, March 06, 1997 1:48 AM
Subject: 	Re: East Coast Rover..........here we go again!!!....delete now if 
not interested

Benjamin G. Newman,MD wrote:
> Dear Henry Stinson,
> I can't write anything about ECR because I am taking them to Court.
> Benjamin G. Newman

Look bud,

I'm sure you're a very nice guy, but please don't post your dirty linen
to the whole list if you only intend Henry Stinson to read it. I'm sure
this will prompt a defensive response from ECR, and there we go again...
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 10:26:25 -0400
Subject: Re: strange SI spotted

Re: Champ vs. Gypsy:

Sorry, mike - got the names mixed up.

               aj"Mea culpa"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 10:30:27 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: strange SI spotted

At 15:06 97-03-06 +0100, you wrote:

Surely a Gipsy. Probably rusting inside out, since the body was standard
british steel. There is a few around here.

S'lut!

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 10:05:21 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

Michel Bertrand wrote:
> At 22:58 97-03-05 -0500, you wrote:
> >HOWDY ! I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
> 1973 88 SW (21st century project)             \        /
>                                                \______/

I don't know if anyone else had tried this, but on my 1969 88 there were
two solid steel blocks between the springs and the axle attachment
points that lifted the whole vehicle about 3 inches.  They were machined
with the pin in them and longer "U" bolts held them on.  They worked
fine but I removed them when I put new springs on last month. I used one
to make a new part for my winch but the other is still around.  Maybe
something like that would be a cheap way to get lift for bigger tires. 
I never noticed any problems while I had them on 3-4 years.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 00:40:12 -0800
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)  VALVE SPRING REMOVAL TOOL

David Place wrote:
> Ketil Kirkerud wrote:
> >    From: NADdMD@aol.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> have a socket to waste, cut the side out in an arc and then you can take
> out the collets that way.  It works for me every time.  It gives quite a
> mechanical advantage when you use the press.  Dave VE4PN

  I jumped in late I think on this one, but KD Tools make a valve removal 
tool that you can use off or on the vehicle. It has angled jaws that hold 
very good and allows you to remove the keepers after you have compressed 
the spring. You can renew springs,keepers and cap without even taking the 
head off! Cost is about $34.00 Can. and part # is KD 2078. 
  Rovin' on
  Con Seitl
  1973 88  III "Pig"
  1962 88  II  "Millie"

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.boeing.com>
Subject: SIII Clutch troubles on the way?
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 08:39:34 -0800

>From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
>Subject: SIII Clutch troubles on the way?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>air.  It still drives though and the problem does not seem to be increasing.
>Any thoughts?  (I'm supposed to go on a long trip in 2-3 weeks time :-(

You might want to check the return springs.  There are two of them.  The
easy one is attached between the pedal and the top of the footwell.  If
it breaks, the pedal becomes much lighter to push, but the operation of
the clutch itself is unaffected.  The fact that the pedal is so light
could cause you to think it's engaging at the last moment.  The other
spring is inside the clutch master cylinder.  I've never had this break
(the seals have worn out long before the spring broke) so I don't know
how this would affect the clutch operation or pedal feel.  The only cure
for this is to rebuild or replace the master cylinder.

_______________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer, Boeing Video Services
marin.faure@pss.boeing.com
tel(206)393-7721
fax(206)393-7741

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 00:45:02 -0800
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)  VALVE SPRING REMOVAL TOOL]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

David Place wrote:
> Ketil Kirkerud wrote:
> >    From: NADdMD@aol.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> have a socket to waste, cut the side out in an arc and then you can take
> out the collets that way.  It works for me every time.  It gives quite a
> mechanical advantage when you use the press.  Dave VE4PN

  I jumped in late I think on this one, but KD Tools make a valve removal 
tool that you can use off or on the vehicle. It has angled jaws that hold 
very good and allows you to remove the keepers after you have compressed 
the spring. You can renew springs,keepers and cap without even taking the 
head off! Cost is about $34.00 Can. and part # is KD 2078. 
  Rovin' on
  Con Seitl
  1973 88  III "Pig"
  1962 88  II  "Millie"

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 14:28:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

On Thu, 6 Mar 97, "G. Mugele" <mewgull@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Unless I'm misunderstanding the question, this is not a direct bolt-on 
>nad not likely to work very well.  The Defender windscreen is about 3 or 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
>divider and uses a single pane for the whole frame.  Even better: it 
>maintains the original LR beauty and aerodynamic integrity :-)
OK, I guess I should speak since I've done this modification to a Series III.  
Actually attaching the windscreen is not an insurmountable task.  The folowing 
steps are for a Series III but should be similar for other models.

1. Remove the roof and old windscreen (including frame).
2. Remove the retainer brackets that hold the windscreen from folding forward.
3. Cut off the old hinges (not nescessary on pre-SII vehicles) and grind the 
area flat and smooth.  Prime, paint, or do whatever you need to make it look 
presentable.
4.  Drill holes for the Defender hinges in the bulkhead.  These hinges are 
bolt-on.  Luckily, the holes required are already present on your Rover.  The 
holes that contiain the rivnuts that attach the winscreen retainer are lined up 
perfectly for the windscreen hinges.  Just drill appropriate sized holes from 
the inside out!
5. Bolt on the hinges, making sure that you put the retaining bracket back in as 
well (the holes in this bracket may have to be enlarged.  Bolt the windscreen to 
the hinges, replce the seal from the bulkhead to the windscreen and viola! you 
have a Defender windscreen on your series Rover.
6.  For Defender-style wipers, you can drill a new hole for the wiper gearbox on 
the passenger side.  Measure from an existing defender to find where the hole 
needs to be.  Relocate the gearbox and trim the gear-cable surround tube to fit. 
 Install Defender windscreen arms and voila! you have wipers.
7.  Roof is another problem.  A 110 roof will bolt directly onto a 109" .  A 90 
roof WILL NOT fit onto an 88" without shortening.  This is possible but the 
length should be taken out of the rear, and not the middle.  A soft top depends 
on your tailoring ability.

At any rate, thats my experience...YMMV.  Any specific questions, e-mail me 
directly.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 14:27:36 MST
Subject: SII Door Tops

FWIW my 1960 SII 5 door Safari SW has removeable door tops on both front doors 
and both back doors.

Rob Modica, Tucson AZ        '51 SI 80" hardtop       #16136629 "La Rana"
Arizona Land Rover Owners    '60 SII 109" SW Safari   #16400620 "The Tortuga"
rmodica@east.pima.edu        '94 Disco 5spd 

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 18:37:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Circlips

To which particular circlip are we referring? If it's the one that
retains the brass bushing for second and third gear on the mainshaft of
a Series IIA transmission we whole heartedly agree.

Jack Walter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Mar 97 09:28:45 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: Help, I'm rolling and I can't stop!

     I have a few problems, so I'll start in order of severity.
     
     First, I was driving with my daughter about a week ago, came to a stop 
     sign, and the pedal was flat, to the floor.  Two pumps and I was all 
     set.  This was new to me.  I finished our errands and pumped my way 
     home.  I rebuilt the master and bled the lines, but the problem 
     persists.  Damn, I miss my truck.  Any advise is appreciated.
     
     The second problem concerns your advice.  The mailgate at work has 
     been choking regularly from the majors mail and at home, I have been 
     unable to get mail.  Catch 22 -  Please e-mail your responses directly 
     to rscholl@lib.com and to the list for everyones benifit, if I may 
     impose.  I sure hope someone has the solution - I know the IIA 88" 
     system is simple, so I hesitate to deduce why I am stuck as it may 
     make me feel all the more foolish.
     
     Thanks in advance,
     
     Ray Scholl - missing the digest.
     
     rscholl@lib.com
     1970 SIIA 88"
     1960 SII  88" restoration
     ...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 00:55:23 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Help!!! SOLEX 361V advice?

Anyone out there an expert on tuning the solex 361V carburettor (SIII
1973 88" SWB 2,25 petrol) ?

The engine is running ok, but the carburettor / gas pedal control is a
little sluggish (could be because I'm used to diesel?)

I have the following questions -

According to the manual (danish) there should be an electrical cutoff on
the carb - to prevent afterignition following stopping the motor - there
is no such kit on this one, and there seems to be no place to mount one
(beside the volume screw)? Is this normal? Is the lack of this a
problem?

The manual refers to a charcoal filter - I cannot find it! where should
it be? what does it do? how does it work? What difference is there if it
isn't fitted?

Above the inlet manifold, on the lower casting of the carb. there is a
"nozzle" which appears to be a connection for a rubber tube - it is
blanked off with a 7/16" bolt! What does this do, is there something
missing? does it make a difference?

There is a metal pipe running from the distributor to the carb - what
does this do? How does one correctly adjust the advance/retard screw on
the distributor?

How long (at 8-12 °C) do you normally have to have the choke pulled to
prevent stalling? When the choke on this vehicle is pulled, the carb is
very slow to reduce revs when I pull foot off pedal - revs are very
high. When choke is not pulled, revs are around the 750 - 800 rpm mark
(calibrated by a diesel standard ear!)

The gas pedal seems to move up or down longer than the travel of the
carb. valve - I have tightened all (I think) axles and levers in the
pedal mechanism, but when driving i can still push pedal lower than
lowest revs - then it stays there, or I can hook my foot under the
pedal, and lift it higher than top revs - then it stays there. what
could I have overlooked?

I have just dismantled and cleaned the solex, and refitted it - all
parts seem to be in place, and there are no leaks or bad fits. Are there
any adjustments to the carb which i should make - how does one tune a
carb properly.

Sorry for this wide bandwidth of carburretorial ignorance, but Eskild is
the first petrol LR I have ever fiddled with, and all my trucks are
diesel, so I am definatly not a solex expert.

Can anyone offer any sound advice (other than changing the carb for a
weber?) please!!!

thanks, happy rovering..

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 06:34:27 -0800
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Axle Re: Drive Hub

William L. Leacock wrote:
>   Is a Salisbury axle conversion common on IIA
> 109's?  I would be interested in such a vehicle also.  Thanks in advance for
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Bill Leacock    Limey in exile
> 89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

Just to add to this thread, It appears the 24 spline drive hub seems to 
be weaker than the standard Rover drive. I had a box of 10 new ones here 
and a chap who converted to a Salisbury has had his drive hubs strip out 
on him, using 4 hubs in the last 2 years. I love selling him new drivers, 
but I can't answer his questions why they would strip out. BTW, they are 
Genuine drivers,not after-market,and the axle stubs look to be in A-1 
shape, no rounding off or odd shape. Any thoughts?

Rovin' On
Con Seitl
1973 88 III  "Pig"
1962 88 II   "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 17:34:39 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Axle Re: Drive Hub

Not to totally confuse the issue, but I was stripping the 2A (11?) spline 
hubs until I replaced the hubs and axles at the same time. They weren't 
fitting tightly enough. I'd broken two axles (at the diff end), so had put 
three sets of axles in the same pair of (rear) hubs. When I put the new hubs 
on the new axles I was surprised how tightly they fit. I also used some 
locktite on the splines to reduce relative motion even more. (I may regret 
it later)
JohnO
64 109

>Just to add to this thread, It appears the 24 spline drive hub seems to 
>be weaker than the standard Rover drive. I had a box of 10 new ones here 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Genuine drivers,not after-market,and the axle stubs look to be in A-1 
>shape, no rounding off or odd shape. Any thoughts?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 20:58:37 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Windows

Granny Pool wrote:

>I hope that anyone going to the trouble of making custom door-tops will be
>using the double-sliding D-90 still (style?) windows, instead of the very
>annoying fixed-front-panel Series style!

Umm...I think the D-90 windows fit just fine.  Years ago, LRNA photographed
my 88 alongside the prototype NAS D-90.  Pulled my windows and held them up 
against the D-90.  It was a perfect match, including the fixing posts.  
Anyone else???  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 20:58:48 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hello?

Is Michael Ramage on the list still?  Robert Davis is going to be in Bean 
Town next week on business and would like to meet with ya'.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: BigAlSk8r@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 21:30:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: sorry for all the shouting.

wow! i had no idea, makes sense though, i'll be sure not to do it again,
sorry all. thanks to every one who responded to my questions! i realy have
enjoyed the list! if any one has coil spring questions i'm a tech at the
local dealership and would be happy to give my 2 cents worth if  i can get on
line &/or have any idea.  thanks again,allan

------------------------------

From: "KMCO" <KMCO@KEAR.TDS.NET>
Subject: half shafts
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 21:41:28 -0500

I wonder if anyone out there can tell me exactly what material that LR used
to make the  axle shafts for the series vehicles?  I need to replace one in
my IIa 109 and thought that it might be an interesting exercise to make up
a few sets.  Based on what I can tell from the broken pieces, it appears to
be a low carbon forging.  I thought that I would make them from a pre heat
treated medium carbon bar ( 41L40 maybe? ) that would have a considerably
higher tensile strength than the original and better torsional strength. 
It would be nice to know what the originals were.

Also, at Owls Head last July I parked right next to a nice couple with a
IIa 88" who were from  Brooklyn, NY ( Queens, maybe? ) and they had just
had a 109" pick up mounted on a coil spring frame by East Coast Rover.  I
would like to get in touch with these folks, anyone know them? 
Thanks............
Neal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 21:56:12 -0500
From: Douglas and Leslie Boehme <SCHAILEY-BOEHME@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: D90 Rust problem

I would like some advice on a warranty problem I'm having with my LR 
dealer:

I have a '95 D90 and my spare wheel rack (for lack of a better term) is. 
and has been for quite a while, rusting from the inside and everytime it 
rains, or the back gets wet, rust colored water drains out of the rack 
at the bottom hinge connection.  Well, I've had it looked at several 
times.  The first time they said, nope, the wheel is aluminum, it won't 
rust.  So I re-explained that it wasn't the wheel at fault.  Second 
time, same thing.  Third time, a "rust expert" from LRNA came to the 
shop and looked at it and said that the hinges just need to be greased. 
Well, it's not the hinges, so now on Tuesday, I need to take a day off 
from work to hold hands with the "rust expert" while he re-examines my 
LR.  How in the hell do I convince them that the logical solution is to 
replace the rack under warranty?  (The rack should be filled with grease 
and was not when shipped to this country and when I received shipment of 
the vehicle in Aug '95, it still was not lubricated - little did I know 
that this problem would occurr.)  I am imagining things, or is the rack 
in need of replacement?

Thank you for your suggestions,
Douglas "ready to start writing letters to LRNA" Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 21:57:06 -0500
From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: Re: Windows

>>Umm...I think the D-90 windows fit just fine.  Years ago, LRNA photographed
my 88 alongside the prototype NAS D-90.  Pulled my windows and held them up 
against the D-90.  It was a perfect match, including the fixing posts.  
Anyone else???  Cheers<<

I have actually tried '95 D90 door tops and they are just a wee bit taller.
About 1/8". In most cases that is not enough to make a difference.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     RobD@UnitedParking.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1996 Discovery
  [_______________________]     1963 MB Unimog 404.1
     EEEI           EEEI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 11:06:38 -0800
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Windows

Rob Dennis wrote:
> >>Umm...I think the D-90 windows fit just fine.  Years ago, LRNA photographed
> my 88 alongside the prototype NAS D-90.  Pulled my windows and held them up
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>      EEEI           EEEI

   d90 doortops will fit just fine. in fact the whole door off nas 90 
will fit too. John Cranfield on borrowed terminal.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 22:28:30 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: sorry for all the shouting.

At 21:30 97-03-06 -0500, you wrote:

-
>wow! i had no idea, makes sense though, i'll be sure not to do it again,
>sorry all. thanks to every one who responded to my questions! i realy have
-enjoyed the list! if any one has coil spring questions i'm a tech at the
>local dealership and would be happy to give my 2 cents worth if  i can get on
>line &/or have any idea.  thanks again,allan

-
You can leave the "I" as a capital letter, we won't think that you are
shouting, it just looks strange if the letter is not a capital...

Salutations, 

Michel

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 19:35:35 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Windows

Sandy said:

>>>Umm...I think the D-90 windows fit just fine.  Years ago, LRNA photographed
>my 88 alongside the prototype NAS D-90.  Pulled my windows and held them up 
>against the D-90.  It was a perfect match, including the fixing posts.  
>Anyone else??? 

Rob said:

>I have actually tried '95 D90 door tops and they are just a wee bit taller.
>About 1/8". In most cases that is not enough to make a difference.

Jory Bell (San Francisco, formerly of Mass.) has D90 doortops on his lovely
SIII 88.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 19:45:46 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: 2.25L Engine Questions

At  6:45 AM 3/6/97 -0800, Tony Treace wrote:

>This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
>this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>I am soliciting opinions on the following topics:
;
>Cylinder Head
> - 7:1 vs. 8:1 CR Heads, how do you tell the difference externally? Is
>it worthwhile to get a later 8:1 casting?
;
Some heads have a raised flat rectangle on the top closest to the carb.  If
the head does not have this flat, it is a 7:1.  If the flat has a big 8
stamped on it , it's a 8:1 head.  If it is unstamped or stamped with a 7 it
is a 7:1.

Raising compression is the easiest way to add horsepower.

> - Is milling a 7:1 head an option, or sacrilege?
;
7:1 heads can be milled, but you first need to deturmine if it had
previously been milled.  An unmilled head is 3.690" thick measured between
the bottom and the valve cover mating surface.  Milling a 7:1 head 100
thousandths will raise it to 8:1.

When you mill the head you change the rocker arm geometry.  You will need
to install shorter pushrods from an 8:1 engine to correct the geometry.

>Cams
> - Is the 2.5L cam a worthwhile upgrade?
:
Everyone I know that has done it says they have more power.  You pretty
much need it to derive the extra power a two venturi Weber can give you.

>Crankshaft
> - I've heard of using 2.25 Diesel cranks in Petrol engines. What are
>the advantages?

;
??

>Exhaust
> - Genuine vs. Stainless Steel Aftermarket.

I have had headers on an engine for several years,  I went back to a stock
manifold later.  I never noticed a difference.

>Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
>eJ8+IgMOAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy
>b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQmAAQAhAAAAQUIwNEQ0NEZGNzk1RDAxMTgzM0QwODAwMkIzOTBC

Tons of this giberish removed.  Are you using some Microsoft product?  They
tend to do nonstandard stuff.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 00:36:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Windows

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> Granny Pool wrote:
> >I hope that anyone going to the trouble of making custom door-tops will be
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Sandy;     
>I had met  a LRO from Kansas here in NY last summer he had a Series lll with door tops from a D-90 with the dual sliding windows they fit 
perfectly and looked geat      
-- 
Rgds, 
Steve Bradke    72 Series lll 88 ( For Sale )
WA2GMC          68 Series lla 88
                96 Discovery SE-7

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 07:44:59 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Axle Re: Drive Hub

John Ousterhout wrote:
> Not to totally confuse the issue, but I was stripping the 2A (11?) spline
> hubs until I replaced the hubs and axles at the same time.

I've heard this before from guys with loads of overlanding experience
and will definately be trying it myself when next I twist off a side
shaft (half shaft, whatever).
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 07:47:16 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: sorry for all the shouting.

BigAlSk8r@aol.com wrote:
> wow! i had no idea, makes sense though, i'll be sure not to do it again,
> sorry all. thanks to every one who responded to my questions! i realy have
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> local dealership and would be happy to give my 2 cents worth if  i can get on
> line &/or have any idea.  thanks again,allan

Hey Allan, you can use *some* capiital letters occassionally :-)

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 08:11:32 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Tons of giberish removed...

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQmAAQAhAAAAQUIwNEQ0NEZGNzk1RDAxMTgzM0QwODAwMkIzOTBC
> Tons of this giberish removed.  Are you using some Microsoft product?  They
> tend to do nonstandard stuff.

You must be kidding TeriAnn, Microsoft IS the standard ;-> Have you ever
noticed what havoc FrontPage wreaks on simple HTML docs?

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Windows
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 97 23:01:54 -0800
From: "G. Mugele" <mewgull@ix.netcom.com>

Sandy Grice said:
>Umm...I think the D-90 windows fit just fine.  Years ago, LRNA photographed
>my 88 alongside the prototype NAS D-90.  Pulled my windows and held them up 
>against the D-90.  It was a perfect match, including the fixing posts.  
>Anyone else???  Cheers

Blair Peterson has a beautifully restored 109 4-dr with the D90 double 
sliding door tops.  He just bought 'em, matched the color and put 'em on. 
 It looks great.  You can hardly even notice except for the angle of the 
glass.

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele
Peat  -'95 D90 SW 364/500
Gooey -'72 Series III 88
*** This is as bad as it can get, but don't bet on it.

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: strange SI spotted
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 09:06:13 +0100 (MET)

Thanks to all who told me about the Austin. 
The thing seems to be in pretty good shape. Didn't notice rust
on the body, since that would have given me some more doubts that
it is a Rover. I don't know if it still has a running engine, 
however.
Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Circlips
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 97 9:07:12 GMT

> To which particular circlip are we referring? If it's the one that
> retains the brass bushing for second and third gear on the mainshaft of
> a Series IIA transmission we whole heartedly agree.
> Jack Walter

It was more of a general comment. The couple I did the preceding night 
were successfully defeated (gearstick ones which hold the spring in).
As I'm doing my (SIII) gearbox, there are *lots* of circlips...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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