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Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 07:04:59 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: dual line brakes conversion tutorial (long)

>involved/cost? Vehicle is a `63 SIIa 88".         Thanks in Advance, Rick

Hello Rick, 

Been there, done that, (twice)

If you still have the original system, it consists of:

Brake master cylinder with one line coming in from the reservoir and one
line going out to the 5-way junction on the passenger-side(near the footbox)
on the frame.

Clutch master cylinder with one line coming in from the reservoir and one
line going out to the clutch slave cylinder

The idea is to find yourself a used brake servo and brake master cylinder
with the pedal box and also a clutch master cylinder and pedal box, all from
a Ser III 88". If you could find a Ser III inlet Manifold, that would also
be good, if not, you can arrange something (that's for the vaccumm that you
will need to operate the booster).

If you have to use the original clutch assembly, you will have to find a way
to put a plug in the reservoir outlet hole (for the brakes) so that you
don't have brake fluid going all over the place. The Ser III brake master
cylinder has an integral reservoir, so you don't need the remote one
anymore. The Ser III clutch master cylinder also has an integral reservoir,
so if you go that route, you can chuck out the remote reservoir, which is
probably rusty, anyway.

To replace the clutch master cylinder, I think that you have to remove the
wing (It is a LHD, right?) Anyway, it will be easier to cut out the wing
once it is removed. You have to cut out the wing cos' the booster has a 9"
diameter and the wing is in the way. The master cylinder, with the
reservoir, is also longer and higher than the original.

It is better to find yourself a Ser III wing somewhere and to have a big
piece of cardboard to carve yourself a model. 

We will start with the wing. Once you have the pattern drawn on the
cardboard, put in on the wing and draw on the wing where the wing should
normally end in order for the booster and MC to be clear. Then, with your
chalk, or pencil, trace a similar line one inch closer to the engine bay on
the wing, following exactly the same curves and such. You should now have
two parralells (sp) lines on your wing. This is done in order to avoid
having any sharp edges on the wing.

With a pair of sheetmetal scissors, or pliers, cut along the line which is
closest to the engine bay. Than, at every inch or so, make a perpedicular
cut starting from that fresh edge you just did going towards the line that
you first draw. It should look like something like this: _____________________
                                               | | | | | | | | | | |

Then with a pair of large nose wise-grips, gently fold down every single tab
along the line, like if it was a miniature brake (sp?). Use bodyshop tools
in order to make a nice job.

You are done with the wing.

Now, the clutch master cylinder:

Remove the old pedal box assembly after disconecting the pipes and put the
new one in. It should be a straight fit. Reconnect the line and bleed the
clutch.

Now, the brake master cylinder:

Remove the lines, and the whole pedal bracket assembly. Chuck it out. Cut
the hole in the footwell for the pedal arm so that it fits. Put the new
pedal assembly in. Up to now, it is really easy. Again, it is a straight
fit.Now it is time to have fun with the brake lines. 

The brake line closest to the bulkhead goes to the rear and the one farthest
from the bulkhead goes to the front.

You will use the 5-junction piece for the rear brakes and brake-light
switch. Bring that line from the MC to the junction box. From there, don't
touch the line going to the rear, you won't need to replace it. There is one
outlet for the brake light switch will will remain intact. The others was
used to go the the front wheels. You need to find a plug that will fit in
order to block and seal that outlet. (You can use a dead brake-light switch).

You now have your rear brakes connected.

For the front brakes, you will need a 3-way junction as seen in the rear, on
top of the axle casing, bolted on the frame. I found mine at the local bolt
and nut specialist, with the right threads. It was much cheaper.

Bring a line from the MC to the 3-way junction and two lines from there to
the wheels. 

Now, you have your front brakes connected.

Now you need to connect your servo with some kind of vaccum gizmo. Some
carbs, like the Weber, if I remember correctly, have a provided oultet in
order to install a vaccum pipe from there to the booster. If not, you have
three choices: 

1) Install a Ser III inlet manifold which has the hole and gizmo
factory-installed
2) Drill and tap a hole in your inlet manifold (Don't forget to remove the
carb so you can pick-up all the fine metal particles which have dropped in
the manifold before it goes in the engine)
3) Install an electric vaccum pump. Saves a little bit of Horse power, but
noisy and it vibrates alot. 

There is a copper-pipe, about 5/16 in diameter that goes from the manifold
to a rubber hose (you can find the right size at any auto-part, just get 12"
of fuel line of the correct dia) which is connected to the booster.

Bleed the brakes.

Voila, power assisted brakes.

You realize that it is two sepearte systems, that if you break a line in the
rear, you will still have front brakes, and vice-versa.

Hope this helps, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me.

Done it twice, and double-braking since, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:18:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: painting prep?

In a message dated 97-03-04 22:21:17 EST, you write:

<< Hi all, Yes I know painting has been covered , but is there a special
process
 for  prime coating bare alum. so it doesn`t peel.    >>

Hi Rick,

There is an etching primer that you can use.   It is nasty stuff but works
great.  Sherwin-Williams off Joppa (near Loch Raven Blvd) carries it and can
give you excellent tips on use.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Roland Klein <klein@bond.net>
Subject: Birmabrite painting
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 97 08:33:10 PST

Does anyone know the material spec for the aluminum used in the 
body panels, and whether it is clad or unclad? I am thinking it's not 
clad.  In any case, I believe a chemical conversion coating process is 
helpfull if you remove paint to the bare metal,  (I think it's called 
alodine).  Also, steel wool will have the same effect as wire brushes 
WRT imbedding micro particles of steel into the aluminum, resulting in 
galvanic corrosion.
Roland Klein
1968 Series IIA 88" Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 8:23:03 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: painting prep?

Rick, go to the boat store and buy a quart of self etching primer. 
Z-Spar, Petit, Interlux, et. al. make a version. Brush, roller, or spray 
application.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:25:47 -0400
Subject: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, MA.

My latest project (a 67 88 of dubious reliability but loads of character)
arrived on my doorstep sporting the driver's door off a 58 Series II
Station Wagon. It's a great door, but I'd rather have the type the old boy
was originally fitted with.

For the uninitiated, the Series II (not IIa) Station Wagons had front doors
that were one-piece, with no detatchable door top. As the 109 SW wasn't
designed to have its roof removed, this made a lot of sense, making for a
more rigid assembly.

However, it doesn't have a place in my scheme of things. i'd like to trade
it even for a IIa door and door top - email condition.

Delivery/pickup/meet you in the middle is eminently possible, so don't be
afraid to ask

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:52:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, M

On  5 Mar 97 at 8:25, Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.c wrote:

My latest project (a 67 88 of dubious reliability but loads of character)
arrived on my doorstep sporting the driver's door off a 58 Series II
Station Wagon. It's a great door, but I'd rather have the type the old boy
was originally fitted with.

For the uninitiated, the Series II (not IIa) Station Wagons had front doors
that were one-piece, with no detatchable door top. As the 109 SW wasn't
designed to have its roof removed, this made a lot of sense, making for a
more rigid assembly.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

Not only station wagons had one piece doors, as my '59 SII pickup with 
removeable cab top has them.  I'm not sure of the reason for them, though 
they went away quickly even in the SII models.  I would guess they were the 
first version of the new body with the nice hips, but the ability to remove 
the door tops as in SI's was a nice feature missed by all and they were 
brought back.  Does anyone out there know the whole story?

Ron Franklin
'59 109 w/one piece doors
'60 88 w/two piece doors
'65 88 w/doors falling to pieces

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 8:51:23 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Enquiring minds want to know...

The Kirkwood household is all abuzz regarding things Rover...
As to the overdrive question, it depends on what your driving needs are. 
An overdrive helps on the highway considerably and is highly recommended 
if that is the major portion of your mileage. They are useless off-road. 
Used ones are rare and new ones, when available, run in the range of 
$700. Switching to 16" wheels and tires helps in your quest for speed.
As far as I know, there isn't an exchange gear for the T-box, rather a 
higher diff ratio. I think it's possible to build a stump-pulling highway 
rocket, but consider the costs and engineering.
Replace the shocks if they are wet with fluid, rusting away or otherwise 
obviously unserviceable. Bushings are easily replaced if that's the 
problem. Springs that have gone bye-bye are also easily  diagnosed. 
Splaying or flattening of the leaves, rust damage, broken leaves and the 
like are sure signs. The bent spring plate you mention will not adversely 
affect the performance of the truck, but if the springs need replacing, a 
new one is in order. If you replace springs, consider polyurethane 
bushings.
On the issue of seat belts, don't use friggin' velcro. There are seatbelt 
mounting kits available which will safely mount on the truck. Others have 
used aftermarket generic kits from Whitney. The roll cage idea makes the 
most sense from a safety standpoint, as the belts can be permanently 
mounted to something that goes straight to the frame.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 14:48:58 +0000
Subject: Proper Chassis Paint

>Does anyone out there know the type and make of paint that Land-Rover
>applies to their frames at the factory?  If not, what is the closest
>quality paint that will replicate it?

You dont want to do >that<.............

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:56:02 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Re: SIII gearbox in a SIIA ??

   Peter- regarding ajr's suggestion that you swap bell housings- Sounds
like a good idea, but while doing it, look out for the hidden gotcha that
got me this weekend. 
  I was doing a bell housing swap between two series IIa trannys because one
was cracked. Both were identical externally, but the layshaft bearing (and
shaft, of course) was smaller in the older transmission. I was swapping
between a suffix "A", and suffix "B" it turns out.
  The story is humorous in retrospect-- I spent about 4 hours dismantling
both bell housings, and had everything transferred *except* the layshaft
bearing when I discovered my mistake. After stewing for a bit, I decided the
cracked housing was still strong enough to function safely, transferred
everything *back* and reassembled the tranny with the original cracked
suffix "B" housing. (3 more hours). So I basically spent my Sunday
accomplishing nothing with a great deal of effort. Monday morning, a set of
brake parts arrives from Rovers North with a bargain sales flyer for odd
parts in the box....listing a suffix B bell housing for $20.
-NickF

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 09:10:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Proper Chassis Paint

RustOleum?

What's wrong with RustOleum?

Rustoelum Satin Black, applied over a proper basecoat, is quite close to
the original paint I've seen, at least for an easily-available paint here
in the USA.

I had the distinct joy of painting Spencer Norcross' new galvanized frame
before we installed it. The beast received an acid wash, 3 coats of primer
and 3 coats of black - looked quite nice, and except where he's bashed it
on rocks, has held up well.

There are better coatings, but satin black is satin black, and unless ou're
building a concours machine, it'll do fine.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Bright Works Rovers
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 10:00:52 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@openmarket.com>

There is one of the unpainted 90" display models at the Heritage Motor Centre.

Photo at:	http://www2.land-rover.team.net/HMC/hmc-90-croc.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 07:09:15 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: dual line brakes conversion tutorial (long)

At  7:04 AM 3/5/97 -0500, Michel Bertrand wrote:
I have a couple of comments on this from my own experience.

>The idea is to find yourself a used brake servo and brake master cylinder
>with the pedal box and also a clutch master cylinder and pedal box, all from
>a Ser III 88".
;
As far as I know Rover did not change the clutch pedal assy.  If you look
at them, they look the same.  I personally have fitted a series III master
cylinder to an early IIA pedal assy and have used it for a few years.

One thing I forgot to mention in my reply and Michael forgot to mention is
the rear wing mounting flange. There is an 'L' shaped bracket attached to
the bulkhead.  You will need to cut the inner half of the flange off for
the clutch master cylinder to fit.  You will have one mounting hole left.

>You will use the 5-junction piece for the rear brakes and brake-light
>switch. Bring that line from the MC to the junction box. From there, don't
;touch the line going to the rear, you won't need to replace it. There is one
>outlet for the brake light switch will will remain intact. The others was
>used to go the the front wheels. You need to find a plug that will fit in
;order to block and seal that outlet. (You can use a dead brake-light switch).
;
We differ here.  Since you have a single line going from your master
cylinder and a single line going to the rear, you completely remove the 5
way.  Remember, there is a brake light switch on the new brake pedal
assembly.  Just run a pair of wires from the old brake harness connectors
to the new brake light switch.

ALSO  I have lost my brakes twice in my Land Rover from rust pin hole
leaks.  This is an excellent time to examine your line and renew it if it
shows any signs of rust spots.

>For the front brakes, you will need a 3-way junction as seen in the rear, on
>top of the axle casing, bolted on the frame. I found mine at the local bolt
>and nut specialist, with the right threads. It was much cheaper.
;
You need to be aware that British and US brake line connectors ARE NOT
COMPATIBLE. They use the same diameter and thread but the British fittings
have a long nose before the threads.  If you thread a British male fitting
into a US female fitting only a few threads will be holding it together.
If you do it the other way. the male fitting will be threaded all the way
in without properly seating the flair.

Use US fittings with US fittings and British fittings with British
fittings.  (Rovers North carries tube fittings, Eastwood carries the proper
flairing tools if you want to make your own tubing)

>1) Install a Ser III inlet manifold which has the hole and gizmo
>factory-installed

Unstead of a series II gizmo, I used a street elbow and slid on hose
fitting from my local parts store.  It works fine.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 10:21:24 -500
Subject: Ownership

"Quique Salavert".......re:  Land Rover 88 Super, he said, 

" The fact is that I'm interested in one that owns a neighbour..."
                                                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Were truer words ever spoken ???
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 17:53:21 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, MA.

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:

> For the uninitiated, the Series II (not IIa) Station Wagons had front doors
> that were one-piece, with no detatchable door top. As the 109 SW wasn't
> designed to have its roof removed, 
 
>                          Al Richer

Hi Al,

Was this phenomenon an North American-market only thing (single piece
doors on the SII SW), 'cos I haven't heard of or come across this
before. Ya live 'n learn...

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 10:57:36 -500
Subject: seat belts

Clayton:
I recently found that front seat belts from a mid '80s Saab 4 dr is the near 
identical unit to the LR ones, the only difference being that they 
needs a vertical orientation, rather than the 45 degree orientation 
that the LR mounting provides.  Easily accomplished by fabricating a 
steel plate bent in the proper angles to mount to either the rear 
bulkhead or the tub capping.  The bulkhead is the preferred location 
( use 4 grade 8 bolts, with a steel backing plate)
as the belt bends along its 'flat' axis when passing thru the 
shoulder bracket.  When mounted to the cappings, it must bend along 
the edge axis, which doesn't work at all.
For a 4 point harness you could use the old static belts by mounting 
a second plate to the bulkhead behind the right shoulder as an 
attachment point for the static belt.  A little creative snipping and 
sewing ( and maybe a little velcro, too) and voila, a two piece, 4 point 
harness, utilizing the center seat belt mounting points for the right side 
driver harness.  Each would 'hook' seperately, but would be quite 
functional, I should think.  ( hey, this is not a bad idea.  think 
I'll put those old static belts to good use this way.)
Good Luck.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 11:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, MA.

Near as I know (and this is hearsay from LROI) these doors were used on the
Series II 109 SW, though someone on the list mentioned that their II 2-door
also had them.

I heard about them as part of the Series II restoration that LROI was doing
a year or so ago - their 109 had them. As they're in the UK, it leads me to
believe that this was just one of those bright ideas that got dumped
quick...

                    aj"But I still don't have a replacement!"r

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 11:17:39 -0400
Subject: Re: seat belts

When I bought Mr. Churchill, all he had was lap belts. This was NOT going
to do.

I ended up buying the Rover mounts for my pickup cab and fitting him with
inertia-reels from a Suzuki Samurai. The reels bolted right up, needing
only to have the belt turned about in the top swivel bit. The buckles
needed to come from a compatible Japanese thingy, as the Suzuki anchors
were too short to work in the Rover aplication. I think a Mazda pickup
provided them...

The sad bit was that the Suzuki I got them out of had obviously never had
its belts used at all...and there was a large smash in the middle of the
windshield...

                    aj"The belts were unfortunately brand-new..."r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:26:45 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, MA.

Alan Richer wrote:

> For the uninitiated, the Series II (not IIa) Station Wagons had front doors
>that were one-piece, with no detatchable door top. As the 109 SW wasn't
>designed to have its roof removed, 

Paul Oxley wrote:

>Was this phenomenon an North American-market only thing (single piece
>doors on the SII SW), 'cos I haven't heard of or come across this
>before. Ya live 'n learn...

I've had numerous Series II 88s and found that ones with plain hardtops and
tailgates, as well as station wagons, were fitted with either one-piece or
two-piece doors.  My first Land-Rover was a '59 88" hardtop which had
one-piece doors.  Then (after a few IIAs) I had a very original '58 88"
hardtop which had one-piece doors.  I currently have a '60 88" station wagon
which has two-piece doors (although it was apparently in Africa so
presumably not a U.S. specification vehicle).  I also have a SII 88" hardtop
parts vehicle with two-piece doors (no, they aren't usable, Al; their frames
are all rusted).

I must say that the one-piece doors fit much better (more snugly) at the top
and are therefore much less prone to air (and water) leaks and rattles.  But
it gets hotter than blue blazes where I live so it's nice to be able to take
the door tops off, even if I'm not taking the roof off.

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:53:18 -0800
From: "Tom Gross [ESRI-Redlands]" <tgross@esri.com>
Subject: Re: overdrives for my wife's 59 88

Swapping for lower gear ratios??!! 

I'd suggest that even if you could do this that you should not do it.
Land Rover axle shafts are not known for extreme strength.  I've 
twisted off more than one.  A lower gear ratio seems to be a recipe
for bending, twisting, wrenching and generally causing havoc with the
rest of the drive train.  Just use low range and take it easy.  If 
you really do need lower gears than 1st-low, I'd consider walking.  It
would probably be a lot faster and more comfortable.

Tom Gross
tgross@esri.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 18:38:37 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, MA.

Granville Pool wrote:
 
> I must say that the one-piece doors fit much better (more snugly) at the top
 Granville "Granny" Pool
> Redwood Valley, CA, USA
> '73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

Granville (I'd feel odd calling you "Granny") and others,

A couple of guys locally have started turning out replacement door tops
for series vehicles. These replacement tops are steel instead of tin
with ally foil wrapping and are much more solid (also much heavier so
their effect on the door hinges must be quite devastating), but they
also make for a much more rigid unit which seals far more efficiently
and lasts much longer. The units are very well made and are fully
galvanised. I had to patch up a couple of SIII door tpops last year and
if  had known of these replacements would definately have used them.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

BTW: My neighbour has turned and milled up a couple of side shafts to
experiment with. His theory is that if he machines them flat along their
length they will be inclined to flex rather than twist off. What does
the list think, has anyone tried anything similar before?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:46:46 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Webbery

Granville -- If you have some spare time, (I know you have tons! 8^) could
you take a look at some new web pages I've been working on for the LROA?
Any suggestions, criticisms, etc. you've got would be greatly appreciated.
(I've not had much luck getting feedback from the LROA officers.)  Here's
the message I sent them most recently:

Oh, the URL would help, eh?  It's
<http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/newlroa/index.htm>.  It's not open to the
public yet, though.  Thanks!

---------------------------------

Here's the status of the new web pages as of 3/4/97.  Nick and I discussed
picking a date for rollout, perhaps to coincide with the next AW?  Anyway,
here's what's there, and its status:

Office

General Info  -- Sketchy, but there.  I'd like to put up some more info, 
                 and maybe some more historical stuff.
Officers/Vol  -- Need some info about officers, and I may be 
                 missing some volunteers.
Business Plan -- As taken from Michael Carradine's pages.
Org Outline   -- As taken from MC's pages.
Art/Incorp    -- As taken from MC's pages.

Clubhouse

Membership    -- Sketchy, but mostly complete. 
Charter clubs -- **Fake Data**  Made it up just to see the layout.
Other Clubs   -- Complete.  Please let me know if you hear of new pages.

Bulletin Board

Trips/Events  -- **Fake Data**  Wording may need some work.  Lemme know.
FS/T/W        -- **Fake Data**  Check the layout and wording.
Vendor LIst   -- Real data, per Brad.  Sorted by State/City/Name.  
                 May need some cleanup?

Library

Workhorse     -- There, with sample Spr'93 to see layout.  More info?
Wishful Think -- Need to scan images.

Workshop

Equip Library -- What do we have, what are our plans?  Contact?
Media Library -- What do we have, what are our plans?  Contact?

Lounge

Member Direct -- **Fake Data**  Need to get real data, images.
Resources     -- Needs organization.  I've checked every link (in the 
                 past week) except the miniatures and GPS links.  This
                 could really use some work in organization and finding
                 additional links.

What needs to be checked on all pages:

Accuracy -- Make sure what I've written is true/real. (Except for fake data)
Grammar  -- Check my spelling and grammar.
Layout   -- Is the layout and formatting acceptable?
Wording  -- Am I saying things right?  Or am I opening us up for lawsuits?
Overall  -- Is the look and feel acceptable?  The metaphors?  Etc?

Please don't worry about telling me it looks great; I already think so, and
my ego is plenty big as it is.  Please *DO* tell me what sucks, stinks, or
looks stupid.  I promise my feelings won't be hurt; in fact, I love
(constructive) criticism.  

Standards:  

I've tried to implement some consistancy across the site.  For each page,
the title consists of "LROA", a space, two hyphens ("--"), another space,
and the name of the page (as in "General Info").  

On the page itself, a level 1 heading of "The Land Rover Owners Association"
is centered, followed by a level 2 heading of the name of the page.  Next is
a horizontal rule, and a level 2 heading with a description of what the page
is about.  All of this is centered.  

I'd like to use a graphic for the level 1 heading, in the same font as the
logo (Oracle/StarTrek).  I'd also like to put the LROA logo (in the NA map)
to the left of all that.

I'd also like to come up with a color scheme, but my artistic talents are
rather limited.  Same for a background.  So, if anyone has suggestions for
either, please let me know.  I must admit I'm not real fond of images
(logos) as backgrounds (like the OVLR pages) as they often make the text
hard to read.  If done right, however, they're okay.  So, perhaps the LROA
in the NA map would be good.

And if anyone has any suggestions for keywords for the meta tag for
Altavista et al to search on, please let me know.  

Thanks in advance!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 08:49:57 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Custom door tops (was Re: Anybody need ... door?)

Paul Oxley wrote:

>A couple of guys locally have started turning out replacement door tops
>for series vehicles. These replacement tops are steel instead of tin
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
>galvanised. I had to patch up a couple of SIII door tpops last year and
>if  had known of these replacements would definately have used them.

I hope that anyone going to the trouble of making custom door-tops will be
using the double-sliding D-90 still windows, instead of the very annoying
fixed-front-panel Series style!

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 19:23:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: IDAR (Land Rover Identification Programme)

	After a bit of a hiatus the RoverWeb IDAR programme is again working.
For those who do remember, IDAR can be found at 

		http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/IDAR/

	For those who are new, here is a brief overview...  While
searching for something to do for Jan's final project for his Artificial
Intelligence class,he noticed that Ben was busy getting the RoverWeb up
and running. Jan glanced thru one the FAQ pages and realized that it was
hard to figure out what kind of Land Rover he was looking at. In other
words, there were many more kinds of Land Rovers than he had previously
realized. So here was the idea for his final project: Build an Expert
System that would ask questions and figure out what kind of Land Rover the
user was looking at. Of course, he didn't want to type the answers to the
various questions, and wanted to put it on the Web to help Ben out. 

	Currently the database contains 12 Land Rovers. These are most
everything except the Discovery, Forward Control, and Range Rover models
(we hope to add these later...) There are 10 questions which are asked,
unless a single match is made earlier. This Expert system (ES) is
specially setup to handle "Don't Know" answers, in the event that a good
answer can't be determined. This has proven to be one of its best
features, in case one is looking at a photo or running the ES from memory
and can't remember a specific. The question pages also show which Land
Rover match so far, and provides a way to "Backtrack" to a previous
question, which is useful for exploring the ES's knowledge base. 

	Try it out...  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 18:57:48 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Custom door tops (was Re: Anybody need ... door?)

Granville Pool wrote:
> Paul Oxley wrote:
> >A couple of guys locally have started turning out replacement door tops
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> fixed-front-panel Series style!
> Granny

Ummm...I suppose its a matter of opinion, the fixed-front-panel ensures
that you don't get whacked through the face every time you drive too
close to a branch.

These door tops I'm referring to are just bare frames. You put your own
window channel and glass in, so you should be able to set them up to
slide either way.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 12:09:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: seat belts

In a message dated 97-03-05 11:31:50 EST, you write:

<< I ended up buying the Rover mounts for my pickup cab and fitting him with
 inertia-reels from a Suzuki Samurai. The reels bolted right up, needing
 only to have the belt turned about in the top swivel bit. The buckles
 needed to come from a compatible Japanese thingy, as the Suzuki anchors
 were too short to work in the Rover aplication. I think a Mazda pickup
 provided them... >>

Hi Al,

Do the Suzuki inertia reels mount vertically?  I'm looking for something I
could mount to the rollcage in the Summer (vertical poles) and to the
mounting bolt on the side of the hard top in Winter (again a vertical
mounting).  Something with an angled pull would be a bit of a pain.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 09:11:16 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: machined side shafts?

Paul Oxley writes (snip):
>BTW: My neighbour has turned and milled up a couple of side shafts to
>experiment with. His theory is that if he machines them flat along their
>length they will be inclined to flex rather than twist off. What does
>the list think, has anyone tried anything similar before?

Please explain further. Are you refering to axles?
If so, do you mean he is putting a flat strip down the side of the axle 
shaft? This will tend to cause it to split lengthwise, although perhaps at 
higher stresses than necessary to cause "normal" breakage (I'd have to 
analyze it). If you mean he is keeping the diameter constant, then it will 
break (if it breaks) at the beginning of the splines. The axles DO flex and 
twist, probably more than we imagine. Generally, anything that interupts the 
surface of the axle will cause some form of stress concentration. To avoid 
this at the splines, the axles are fatter there. It almost works. Changing 
to many smaller splines also reduces the stress concentration, although the 
21-spline (if that's the correct number) shafts I've seen were slightly 
larger in diameter, which is an even better solution to breaking axles. Keep 
us appraised of his success.
JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 09:16:05 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Webbery

At 08:46 AM 3/5/97 -0800, Uncle Roger wrote:
>Granville -- If you have some spare time, (I know you have tons! 8^) could
>you take a look at some new web pages I've been working on for the LROA?

Ack!  Sorry folks!  That was supposed to go to Granville only!  Please
disregard the whole thing!  Sorry!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 09:20:38 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: vertical inertia reels

Nate, et al:
I'm using the inertia seatbelts from a Dodge Ramcharger (their small 
pickup). They mount vertically, and the buckle is on the end of a steel 
cable, making it easy to connect to the chassis in a convenient position. It 
also has a "tilt" lock that can be annoying because you can't pull the belt 
out if the vehicle is tilted too far. OTOH, it holds you quite well if you 
already have it on and the vehicle tilts.
JohnO

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 12:23:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: vertical inertia reels

In a message dated 97-03-05 12:21:36 EST, you write:

<< Nate, et al:
 I'm using the inertia seatbelts from a Dodge Ramcharger (their small 
 pickup). They mount vertically, and the buckle is on the end of a steel 
 cable, making it easy to connect to the chassis in a convenient position. It

 also has a "tilt" lock that can be annoying because you can't pull the belt 
 out if the vehicle is tilted too far. OTOH, it holds you quite well if you 
 already have it on and the vehicle tilts.
 JohnO
  >>

Thanks for the info!  I'm gonna check them out.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 12:25:25 -0400
Subject: Re: seat belts

Re: vertical mounting:

Not sure what you mean, but the reel exit is straight up, with a bolt
through the bottom into a bracket paralleling the doorpost.

Take a look at the pickup diagram for seatbelts in the RN catalogue...

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 17:39:55 +0000
Subject: RE: Custom door tops (was Re: Anybody need ... door?)

Who and where are these local chaps and how much are they
selling these windows for? Are they making centre windows for
LWB Station Wagons also? Very interested so any further info
will be gratefully received. Thanks. CJS (LWB SIII SW) 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 12:28:45 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Anybody need a '58 Series II station-wagon door? (Boston, M

At 08:52 AM 3/5/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Ron Franklin
>'59 109 w/one piece doors
>'60 88 w/two piece doors

FWIW, my '59 109" has two piece doors.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Dual brake system
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 19:52:28 +0000

     Could someone please foreward that rather long post regarding the dual
brake system to me..
   Everything in the in box was lost here
thanks
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 17:41:53 -0500
From: "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" <medone@iag.net>
Subject: East Coast Rover..........here we go again!!!....delete now if not interested

Dear Henry Stinson,
I can't write anything about ECR because I am taking them to Court.
Benjamin G. Newman

------------------------------

From: LSheeley@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 18:04:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Defender 110

Long-term Porsche nut takes on recent Anglophile leanings. I have owned a 60
356B Porsche for many years and my college junior son has a 59 we are
restoring. In October my wife and I took a 9-day 25th wedding anniversary
trip to England and Scotland and I now have a fresh appreciation for British
cars. We are going back to Scotland next year for 2 weeks.

While I owned a 66 MGB in college, I never thought I would be thinking about
buying a British car. I bought a monograming sewing machine to do hats,
shirts, etc. last year to do VW and Porsche events and dragged son along for
help. We next tried British Car shows and had a ball. He decided a Land Rover
would be the thing to drive. Now he has his 87 924S Porsche for sale and
wants a Defender.

He wants 1990 to 92 with AC, sunroof, green, blue or red, left-hand drive.

A local car buyer/seller told us there is a guy in Washington DC who imports
late model 110 Defenders from the mother country. Does anyone know a name,
address, phone number, etc. for this guy? Mom says she will spring for up to
$10--$12,000 including the proceeds from the sale of the 924S to buy the
Defender and get her only child into a bigger, safer car. 

Anybody out there got the answer?

Lynn Sheeley
Knoxville, Tennessee
Leaning toward Anglo-phile
D.B.A. Lynn's ABCs--custom car clothes for the discriminating car nut.

------------------------------

From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 18:23:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Surrender

After 6 month of attempting to join the ranks of the LRO, I am surrendering.
Some of you may have read my sad tale of purchasing my '69 109' back in
October, only to have the layshaft break in two, then the motor succomb to a
broken rod and cracked block. I have driven the vehicle a total of 5 hours.
That was the length of the trip from the docks in Virginia to my home. Since,
it has sat in my drive mocking me with each passing day.

I've been unable to acquire a replacement motor at a cost I can afford and
therefore,have decided to sell the lump for what I can get. Actually, she's a
beauty, saving the whole under her bonnet (only to be rivaled by the one
under mine).

I'd be interested in any offers out there. Email for more info.

Tearfully,

Bill McDonald
Soon to be a short lived former LRO

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 19:31:35 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: Just do it???

This has got to be a joke, right??

>Subject: Re: East Coast Rover Co.
>Don`t open this can of worms, everyone`s finally stopped posting negative
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>thing emails  :-(  ).   Just do it and tell us how it goes. 
>                                                     Rgds,  Rick

"Just do it"???  Good idea, don't ask for advice before spending $5000+.

"[T]ell us how it goes"??

What, so people can complain about "posting negative comments"???  I think
that's rather inconsistant.

I just finished posting PRIVATELY to two people who requested information. 

But, since I'm here I will mention that, despite promises made here I still
have recieved NOTHING from East Coast Rover Co.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional      
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 15:46:21 -0900
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@Alaska.NET>
Subject: low transfercase gears

Clayton Kirkwood asked about lower t-case gears for his '59 88. 
Actually the earlier Rovers have a very respectable 2.888:1 low range
reduction.  Starting with the suffix C gearboxes, which I believe
started about '64 or '65, the low range was changed to 2.35:1.  However,
the earlier transmissions have a less desireable 2.996:1 first gear as
opposed to the 3.6:1 first gear in the suffix C and later
transmissions.  Sooo....If an early T-case is mated to a later Tranny
the overall reduction in first gear low range will change from aprox.
40.7: to just under 49:1, plus the lower first gear is nicer for general
drivability in high range.  It's an easy upgrade if your replacing a
gearbox on an earlier Rover and have several to choose from.  If you
have a later IIA or III all you need to find is a Suffix B intermediate
gear and a Suffix A or B low gear to swap into your existing T-case.

Tim Sitter
Peters Creek, AK.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 17:17:38 -0800 (PST)
From: "James M. Davis" <jamesd@baker.cnw.com>
Subject: For Sale 1966 IIA 109 3dr

For Sale:

1966 IIA 109 3dr. 26,000 miles since frame off. Professionally 
rebuilt. All genuine L.R. parts. Gas engine rebuilt, .020 oversize 
pistons, rings, new oil pump, bearings, cam, water pump, valves ground. New 
starter, generator, fuel pump, distributor, rebuilt solex carb. Frame has 
3 new outriggers, and new galvanized rear member, 4 new H/D springs. 
Front axle rebuilt, new swivel balls and king pins. New rear diff and 
axles. New brakes, including lines. New Fairey O/D. Full length hard top. 
Body straight and in primer. $8900.

Jim Davis
Seattle
206-782-8599

  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 20:31:56 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Downeast Land Rover Club accepting memberships

Just a quick note to those I don't have on my mailing list...

The Downeast Land Rover Club invites all Land Rover owners to join!  We are
a club that will be serving owners/enthusiasts mainly in Maine and New
Hampshire.   Please refer to the URL for the club page in my signature for
more information!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 509th COUGARS/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1974 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO"

------------------------------

From: BAnder4294@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 22:12:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Take Me off the list!!!

Where did all this come from? Please send no more e-mails to this address.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 22:12:26 -0500
From: Shaun Oriold <Soriold@worldchat.com>
Subject: Re: Defender 110

LSheeley@aol.com wrote:
> Long-term Porsche nut takes on recent Anglophile leanings. I have owned a 60
> 356B Porsche for many years and my college junior son has a 59 we are
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> Knoxville, Tennessee
> Leaning toward Anglo-phile
> D.B.A. Lynn's ABCs--custom car clothes for the discriminating car nut.

What are you asking for the porsche? and what condition is it in?

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 22:56:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: How do you tell if it's any good?

Hi all,

1. Tappets and rollers:  How do you tell if they're still good?  
2.  Tappet guides: Same question
3.  Intake valves still look pretty good.  How do I tell if they are? What's
all this about grinding valves?
4. Can I just reuse the collarettes and retaining collars?
5. What IS the airspeed velocity of an unladen (assume African) swallow?

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: BigAlSk8r@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 22:58:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

HOWDY ! I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO
FAR , I HOPE YOU WILL BEAR W/ME AS I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING
SUSPENSION LIFT AS I WOULD LIKE AN EXTRA INCH OR TWO BETWEEN BELLE'S CROSS
MEMBERS AND THOSE NASTY HARD THINGS, I'M CURRENTLY RUNNING 30 X 9.5 TIRES AND
DONT CARE TO CHANGE TIRES/LOW GEAR RATIO ANY FURTHER {i.e. 7.5 X 16 TIRES }
ANY SUGGESTIONS  ?  ALSO , I NEVER HEARD IF A DEFENDER WIND SCREEN WOULD WORK
ON A SERIES , I'M VERY INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT AS I HAVE AN OLD TICKFORD
SOFT TOP OFF MY NEIGBORS D-90 W/THE 2 REAR SECTIONS OF THE CAGE . SORRY IF
THIS IS REDUNDANT , IF SO YOU CAN E-MAIL ME @  BIGALSK8R@AOL.COM     THANKS ,
 ALLAN     73'' S.3  88'' - "BELLE"   AND  66" S.2 109" - "MATILDA"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 22:14:20 -0600
From: Grant Gryska <grant@mcs.net>
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Sorry, I am not sure.

Thanks,
Grant@mcs.net

------------13C228F2607D0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 06:48:12 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Custom door tops (was Re: Anybody need ... door?)

C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk wrote:
> Who and where are these local chaps and how much are they
> selling these windows for? Are they making centre windows for
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> LWB Station Wagons also? Very interested so any further info
> will be gratefully received. Thanks. CJS (LWB SIII SW)

Have a look at my web address. Local for me is South Africa. If this is
stll a proposition for you I'll be glad to find out.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 00:26:48 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Defender 110

Hope springs eternal. Father writes of son:
> He wants 1990 to 92 with AC, sunroof, green, blue or red, left-hand drive.
D110 was only sold in US in '93.
Land Rovers (and any other vehicle not originally intended for the US
market) have to be 25 years old to be legally imported. The very few
exceptions won't apply.

Check the LR FAQ, Part V at: http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/ for an
excellent discussion on importing LRs by Bill C.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 23:55:34 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: East Coast Rover Co.

>>Hello
>>        Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the East Coast
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>D90 SW
>Keep the oily side down

        Jeez... I thought you guys woulda been all over this one, everyone
had enough ECR bashing for awhile?
         Mr. Stinson, I've heard good and bad about East Coast Rover Co.,
mostly bad as of late, but I have no firsthand knowledge of them.  They
used to be on this list and were a great help in answering some technical
questions and gave good sound advice.  They had a couple of unhappy
customers and everybody was talking about that for awhile.  One day they
unsubscribe from the list and I haven't heard much since then.

Never pet a burning dog.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 00:04:27 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

>HOWDY ! I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO
>FAR , I HOPE YOU WILL BEAR W/ME AS I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>THIS IS REDUNDANT , IF SO YOU CAN E-MAIL ME @  BIGALSK8R@AOL.COM     THANKS ,
> ALLAN     73'' S.3  88'' - "BELLE"   AND  66" S.2 109" - "MATILDA"

To quote The Firesign Theatre: My friend say don't hear you, he can shout.
or was that Cheech and Chong?

Never pet a burning dog.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 22:12:01 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

BigAlSk8r@aol.com wrote:
> HOWDY ! I'M NEW TO THE LIST AND TO THIS INTER NET THING BUT REALY ENJOY IT SO
> FAR , I HOPE YOU WILL BEAR W/ME AS I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS REGUARDING
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> THIS IS REDUNDANT , IF SO YOU CAN E-MAIL ME @  BIGALSK8R@AOL.COM     THANKS ,
>  ALLAN     73'' S.3  88'' - "BELLE"   AND  66" S.2 109" - "MATILDA"

Allan, 
Since you're new to "THIS INTER NET THING" one thing you might want to
know is, leaving your keyboard in the Caps Lock position is considered
bad form. It's referred to as  shouting and is used for emphasis on a
particular point. As far as suspension lifts go I have to beg off on
that one. Both of mine run stock suspension. 30 x 9.50 x 15 on the 72 
and 7.00R 15 on the 67.

Tom

2 x 72 88's daily driver and it's friend
1 x 67 88  in the family since May 1975 mine from June 1976

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 22:26:28 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: LIFTING SERIES & DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

First let me say Hello to everyone.  I'm new on the List, this is
actually my first posting.

I don'y know of any lift kits for Series LRs, but I read in an issue of
LRW magazine that for a little extra lift (.75") you can use springs and
shackels from a 109 High Capacity PU.  But be warned, since the HC PU
was designed to carry heavy loads it will give a very rough ride.

The Defender windscreen should be a direct bolt-on.

David L Glaser
dlglaser@wam.umd.edu           1994 Discovery (La Ruta Maya #6)
                               1994 Teal Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 08:36:25 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: New Landy/BMW combo (the lunatics have taken over the asylum)

Ya heard it here first!

This mornings Star newspaper carries the report (scanned at hi-res for
you at http://www.adventures.co.za/landy/news.htm , I hope you can read
it) of the launch in SA of the Defender range equipped with the "new" BM
2.8 6cyl. Some "high"lights "maximum power is up from 100kW to 142kW
over the V8, while there's an "improvement" [my emphasis] in torque from
253Nmat 2500r/min to 280Nm at 3950r/min."

And so endeth the service. Friends are requested to send donations to
the Preserve The Old Series Vehicles Fund in lieu of flowers.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 08:48:04 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: East Coast Rover..........here we go again!!!....delete now if not interested

Benjamin G. Newman,MD wrote:
> Dear Henry Stinson,
> I can't write anything about ECR because I am taking them to Court.
> Benjamin G. Newman

Look bud,

I'm sure you're a very nice guy, but please don't post your dirty linen
to the whole list if you only intend Henry Stinson to read it. I'm sure
this will prompt a defensive response from ECR, and there we go again...
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Subject: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 97 00:45:10 -0800
From: "G. Mugele" <mewgull@ix.netcom.com>

David Glaser said:

>The Defender windscreen should be a direct bolt-on.
I believe this was in response to a query about using a Defender 
windscreen on a Series LR.

Unless I'm misunderstanding the question, this is not a direct bolt-on 
nad not likely to work very well.  The Defender windscreen is about 3 or 
4 inches taller than the Series.  One local chap (San Francisco Bay Area) 
has a nice modification to his late IIa.  He has removed the center 
divider and uses a single pane for the whole frame.  Even better: it 
maintains the original LR beauty and aerodynamic integrity :-)

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele
Peat  -'95 D90 SW 364/500
Gooey -'72 Series III 88
*** We face insuperable opportunities.  --Pogo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 10:56:54 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: DEFENDER WIND SCREEN

G. Mugele wrote:
> David Glaser said:
> >The Defender windscreen should be a direct bolt-on.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Gooey -'72 Series III 88
> *** We face insuperable opportunities.  --Pogo

I agree, without extensive mods to the front of the roof it won't fit at
all!

The old two pane windscreen has a very distinct advantage also. If a
stone smashes a pane its less than half the cost and effort to replace a
single pane. Smaller panes are by definition stronger and more resistant
to cracking from rattling and twisting than a single, big windscreen is.
Etc, etc.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 11:21:34 +0100
From: u930369@studbo.hit.no (Oystein Barane)

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