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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 07:09:27 -0400
Subject: Re: I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)

Nate,

First off.....relax....take a deep breath.....that's better...8*)

OK, here's the trick: A lot of times pressure alone, or gentle pressure
doesn't work with these monsters. A short, sharp shock is what's needed to
break the bond between the collar and the keepers.

With the head wherever it needs to be, (preferably on a bench), take a
socket larget than the keepers but smaller than the collar, and with a
large hammer, give the collar a good whack or two, using the socket as a
drift.

This will usually knock things loose, to the point where you can then get
in with the compressor and pop them out.

I wouldn't cut them - that could be ugly.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es>
Subject: Land Rover 88 Super 
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:51:19 +0100

Hello,
I'm subscribed to this list since one month ago, but I haven't (still) got
a Landie.
The fact is that I'm interested in one that owns a neighbour, and I would
like to get any information about it like power, speed, technical
information about it and the price of it. If anybody owns it please let me
know about any problems (I'm studying and couldn't spend money repairing it
every week)

He's a Land rover 88 super, and has a 2.5 Diesel Turbo with about 110.000
Km. in 12-13 years, is pretty green and looks new.
Has no bull bar, no radio, no roof rack, he has anything extra.

If anyone knows, itīs rare for me, because all Landies in Spain since 20 to
8 years ago are Land Rover Santana (made in Spain) but this one not. Could
be imported to Spain?

Please let me know everything about it since I'm interested in purchasing
it.

Thanks in advance,

   Quique Salavert
   ensafer@arrakis.es
   Cullera, Valencia (Spain)

There are not reasons, only feelings (MadikE)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 05:42:52 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: mendo-recce list

Terri-Ann,

I was wondering if you could tell me if Ben is still handling the
mendo-reece list subscriptions on a personal basis. Last week I got back
home from a six week trip and asked Ben to resubscribe me to the list.
No answer no resubscription. While I was gone did something change?
Thanks in advance.

Tom Spoto

1 x 67 88  In the family 22 years mine for the past 21
2 x 72 88's  My daily driver and it's friend

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Gearsticks (chronology of)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 97 13:18:56 GMT

The day after I purchased my truck (last year, to the weekend!) I had a
grubscrew drop out of the main gearstick on the A1...
Eventually I "fixed" this but it wore lose - the threads were buggered to
say the least. So, 6 months later I replaced the gearstick with a secondhand
one I bought from someone who was breaking a SIII locally. Fitted it in, 
with new bracket (so that I can have a reversing light sometime in the future)
and hey presto!

Only thing, is, this one has worked lose too.

The original one was the kind with the o-ring (apparently these wear and
need replacing). The second one had a "hard" plastic end which is free
to rotate, rather than the o-ring. This plastic is not perfectly round,
but has a flat side. With this flat side, there is free play where it
engages in the top of the selector rod(s). Does this make sense?
Anyway, should this be rounded with a flat end? Should there be any freeplay?
Which is the newer of the two gearsticks? I heard somewhere that there was
a problem, hence the change. If I buy a *new* one, which should I opt for?

Richard (pssst: Anyone want two surplus gearsticks? :-)  )

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 08:34:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:(2) I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)

You all have convinced me,

I'll get the sledge and socket out and smack the thing a few times and see if
that adjusts the valve collarettes a bit.  First I have to replace the bent
arm on the compressor.  I'll let you know how it worked.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 8:34:19 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Painting Birmabright

If you use a power wire brush to remove paint, you'll be one sorry pup, 
unless you use a stainless steel one.
First and foremost of your troubles will be the embedding of millions of 
miniscule bits of steel into the soft aluminum which will eventually rust 
and cause no end of grief, as the panels will be severly damaged.
In addition, if you leave the aluminum "raw" it will oxidize, leaving you 
with a powdery mess. At the very least it must be clear coated to prevent 
this ( so you'll have to paint it in any case ). If you live in an area 
that's near the ocean or gets acid rain, count on seeing this happen in a 
matter of days.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 08:40:58 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: D90 Mud Flap Instrs.; Birmabright

     John,
     
     I'll be glad to mail you a copy of the instructions.  I am sitting on 
     a pair that do no fit my model year, and I recognize your description 
     as being the same items.
     
     Re: Birmabright
     Never, *ever* use a wire brush on aluminum (unless the brush uses 
     aluminum wire) as the damage is more than mere physical gouges.  If 
     you already have, use so-called "aluminum jelly" to clean (scrub) the 
     spot well and coat with something!  Unless Birmabright has a *pure* 
     aluminum surface layer, which I have never been able to determine 
     authoritatively, you really, really should paint.  Aluminum alloy is 
     much more vulnerable to the environment than pure aluminum 
     corrosionwise.  The reason aircraft can get away with being unpainted 
     is because their skins do in fact have a pure Al layer on top which 
     resists oxydation, at least as long as it is kept clean.  (Alloy 
     required for strength that pure Al doesn't have.)  A bare-skinned L-R 
     may be quite viable in very dry conditions, but in "normal" weather, 
     it cannot be expected to keep its appearance.
     
     Hank

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 06:24:18 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: mendo-recce list

My apologies to the list. My request to Terri-Ann was not meant to go to
the entire list.

Tom Spoto

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 08:55:31 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Want Ladder for Series SW

     All,
     
     I know that sometime in the dim past I've seen a ladder for the back 
     of a Series L-R SW, made from square steel tube, probably galvanized, 
     that does not require a roof rack to be fitted.  Perhaps it was a 
     Brownchurch item??  Actually, it looked like the Disco rear door 
     ladder.
     
     Have seen pioctures of the one with the LRNA part number for Def, and 
     the Alcan item offered by R/N, but these are different for the 
     "vintage" item I'm recalling.  
     
     Can anyone confirm or point to a source?  You commercial folks (Miss 
     4WD, ECR, etc.) please reply directly if you recognize and can 
     provide.  If I can find 2, I might take 'em both.
     
     Thanks in advance,
     Hank
     1960 Long SW
     1997 Short SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:20:03 +0000 (GMT)
From: LPC <deec139@tom.fe.up.pt>

unsuscribe lro-digest deec139@tom.fe.up.pt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 06:40:01 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: mendo-recce list

At  5:42 AM 3/4/97 -0800, Thomas Spoto wrote:
>Terri-Ann,
>I was wondering if you could tell me if Ben is still handling the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Thanks in advance.
>Tom Spoto

Nothing has changed.  I think he may have several e-mail addresses though.
If I were you. after a failed attempt, I would send a message to the mail
list with the subject of" Ben please read".

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Birmabright
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 97 14:40:00 PST

I believe Land Rover did build a few 90s with bare aluminium alloy. The 
photo I saw of one looked very shiny so it was maybe clear coated. I think 
they were built for display / advertising purposes.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 09:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Landy stuff

neilwarburton@enterprise.net,Internet writes:
>	Two reasons for this one the brakes don't need as much pressure and
>secondly I have one of the new storm engines on the way.Storm I hear you
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>dosen't seem to care about the US market!!!!
>I can't agree.I whish we could get US spec Defenders here in the UK The
>standard spec is far higher than those built for the home market.

If you'd care for a bunch of NAS petrol engines, it sounds like we'd be
up for one-for-one trades on the Storm.  <GRIN>

-- 
Sean P. Murphy    - Project Director - (404)/727-2398 Voice
Emory University  - ITD/LearnLink    - (404)/727-2282 FAX

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Painting Birmabright
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 97 14:55:37 GMT

> I believe Land Rover did build a few 90s with bare aluminium alloy. The 
> photo I saw of one looked very shiny so it was maybe clear coated. I think 
> they were built for display / advertising purposes.

There's at least one poster with a shiny-Al SII/III in it.

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:54:19 +0100
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: SIII gearbox in a SIIA ??

Hello all out there!

Has anyone ever moved a gearbox from a SIII 6 cylinder petrol 109 SW
to a SIIA 4 cylinder diesel 109 SW?

What are the troubles to subspect? Maybe I can get a used gearbox for cheap.

Only replace the gearbox and use the SIII clutch slave cylinder? I can't
believe this! 

BTW: are the SIIA and SIII rear axles interchangeable (same diff?)
     What else should I try to get from the old SIII for my older SIIA?

Thanks
 Peter

-- 
Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think....
Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:00:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Advanced Valve Removal FAQ

On Mon, 3 Mar, Nate at NADdMD@aol.com wrote: I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)

Nate:

When all else fails, wrap the offending valve stem with coils of primer
cord, attach a claymore clicker, cover the coiled primer cord with several
layers of duck tape.  Move this entire mess out doors to a wide open area,
cover with bits of old rug or carpet, hide behind a big tree or rock and set
it off.  This method has theraputic advantages.  Do not try this indoors!

Best Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 19:58:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Chris Weinbeck (Registration)

On Mon, 3 Mar 1997, "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org> wrote:

>Eric Zipkin mentioned that GA has an easier process, and involves a little
>buying and selling arrangement here in the states.  I would wonder about tax
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>GA.  
>Eric may have more details.

The tax was basically a non-ussue as I was registering a vehicle that had little 
or no value. I think I stated that it was $500.  From what I understand, this is 
fine when you're registering a vehicle that either will or has gone through a 
major restoration.  Most of the additional value is in parts and labor which you 
added and paid tax on individually.  Timing may be the crux of the issue.  If 
you register a vehicle before doing all the work this is fine...we do it every 
day.  If you're registering a vehicle that has already been restored by 
yourself, then the value is already added to the vehicle and theoretically, 
during any transfer, tax on the full value would be due.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 17:06:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Assorted Questions

I think the LT prefix stands for Light Truck (but don't quote me on
that) -
the bulkheads on 109's is riveted and spot welded into the rear body
tub assembly just like the 88 Land Rovers
- the body is the same width on Defenders as the old Land Rovers. I
have seen instances where the rear bulkhead is trimmed down diagonally
to the rear floor level ( leaving an opening about 18" wide at floor
level) - its better to build some kind of rack that will support long
items above the level of the bulkhead (even with the body side cappings)
 Jack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 97 00:49:21 UT
From: "K. JOHN WOOD" <JWROVER@msn.com>
Subject: RE: "Storm" The facts

HAY WRECKER!
BE AN ADULT, DON'T TAKE YOR BALL AND GO HOME...STAY AND PLAY...GIVE US THE 
GOODS ON THE "STORM"

THANKS,

JWROVER

----------
From: 	neil warburton
Sent: 	Monday, March 03, 1997 2:07 PM
Subject: 	"Storm" The facts

Hi All.
	Well for Mark Ritter's information I know for a fact that the Storm engine
is a totaly new unit being designed in house at Solihull.If  he thinks he
know more than someone that is working on the project I won't bother to
post anymore news on it.
	I will just leave it to him.
Yours Disapointedly
	Wrecker

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 12:19:24 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII gearbox in a SIIA ??

Near as I know, the petrol 6-banger uses the Series I bolt pattern - the
4-cylinder won't fit.

You can, however, swap over the bellhousing and intermediate gear from the
deceased transmission and create a hybrid - not good if the bearings, et al
in the bellhousing are dead though.

                              ajr

------------------------------

From: "D. E. Renken" <renken@primenet.com>
Subject: Headlamp Ring
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 19:09:10 -0800

Does anyone have an extra chrome headlight ring for a Series I (or Series
IIa)?  My '58 Series I 109 PU came with only one of them - and the cost for
a new replacement is outrageous.  If you have one lying about... thanks.
					Denny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 16:03:56 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Jeff Meyer is going to Alaska

I'm posting this for Jeff Meyer, who lacks email.

Jeff , sometime correspondent for LRW as well as several of the Land-Rover
newsletters, is taking a trip back to Alaska and is looking to rendevous
with enthusiasts up there--particularly those he can find between Anchorage
and Fairbanks.  If you're really lucky, maybe you'll be misquoted *you* and
called a "nerd" in an international magazine.

He'll be in the area March 13 thru April 2.  If you can help him find
people to talk to, or are in the area and want to meet him yourself, please
call him at (718) 229-3053.  If you can't call him directly, I can forward
a message sent to me (back-channel please, I'm way backlogged on all of my
mailing lists), but I will be leaving town myself early Saturday morning so
calling him is the safest bet.

RoverOn!

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 19:24:20 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: SIII gearbox in a SIIA ??

Peter Kutschera wrote:
> Hello all out there!
> Has anyone ever moved a gearbox from a SIII 6 cylinder petrol 109 SW
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
> Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

If you are stripping out the Ser III you might want the power brake unit
and I have both the Ser III fenders with the outside lights and the
older inside headlights on my 69 IIA.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 18:04:42 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: I HAVE HAD IT (valve removal)

Ketil Kirkerud wrote:
>    From: NADdMD@aol.com
>    THAT'S IT I'VE HAD IT!!!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 50 lines)]
> Regards,
> ---Ketil Kirkerud (1979 109" SW, 21/4 Petrol)

I found that if you put the head under the drill press with a socket
over the valve keeper, you can compress the spring to loosen it.  If you
have a socket to waste, cut the side out in an arc and then you can take
out the collets that way.  It works for me every time.  It gives quite a
mechanical advantage when you use the press.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 20:06:23 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: sick starters and dead batteries

Beckett, Ron wrote:
> From: David Place wrote:
> >I can't believe you started with only a 42 AH battery.  Mine is 800!! AH
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
>  -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

Hi:  Well I used to work with those batteries in the telephone business
and yes they were big.  The car battery is rated in CCA "Cold Cranking
Amps". We can get up to 1000 CCA in our area. The battery is very
slightly larger than a regular battery but quite a bit heavier.  This
one comes with its own handle.  It will start me even at -40 and it runs
the winch real well.  You better have a good fuse in the line
however--otherwise you have an aluminum oven :-)   Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 21:14:36 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: SIII Clutch troubles on the way?

Iwan,

When your clutch suddenly started behaving weirdly, did you hear a
muffled "BOING" sound?

You have probably got a broken diaphram spring in the pressure plate.
This has happened to me twice during my 18 years of S-III ownership. The
diaphram spring will break on the outer edge and lose most of the
clamping force of the clutch, but not all of it.  It's the typical
"Broken, but will get you home" Land Rover failure mode.  

Your description of the problem fits my recollection of this problem
exactly, except I actually heard mine go "BOING" when it broke!  

Unfortunately, the only cure is to replace the pressure plate.  

If it were me, I sure would check it out before leaving on a long trip,
it is likely to start slipping real soon. 

Good Luck,

Garret Scott   KB4QGN
scottgs@usit.net

67 Air Portable 'Nigel'
72 88 'Edmund'
 

>Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 17:09:20 +0200
>From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
>Subject: SIII Clutch troubles on the way?

>All,

>yesterday my clutch suddenly started behaving weird:  it is almost as
>light to push in than a normal car and if you release the pedal nothing
>happens until almost at the end when it (somewhat suddenly) grips
>again...  it does not slip, the hydraulics does not leak or contain any
>air.

>It still drives though and the problem does not seem to be increasing.>

>Any thoughts?  (I'm supposed to go on a long trip in 2-3 weeks time :-(
>).

>- Iwan Vosloo
>( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 17:28:02 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: leaf spring questions

<Neophyte On>
Ok, so I've been replacing parts all over, and have the beasty running ok
(but still having the dickens of a time with getting the brakes to work
right). I am wanting to understand whether the suspension needs to be
replaced. So...

How does one know if the leaf springs should be replaced? Is there a certain
height some component should be above another or the ground?

The bottom plate under the springs, and where the shocks attach down low, is
bent, or so it seems. BP doesn't sell these bottom plates. Are they supposed
to be bent? It looks like the shocks were fully compressed in offroading,
hard!! and bent that plate.

I presume that the way to determine if the shocks need to be replaced is by
the jumping on the bumper test: if it continues to undulate, then replace.
Mine aren't undulating particularly, but I assume they are pretty old.

Thanks,

Clayton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 17:36:27 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: seat belt ideas

The 59 88 has lap belts which are only held in by screws into the sheet
metal. This doesn't seem particularly safe. I was considering several
options which I would like some opinions on. In all cases I would bolt the
lap belts into a metal strap under the sheet metal.

1. Taking some safety belt straps and bolting them into the metal work
behind the seats and sewing on substantial widths of velcro. These shoulder
straps would loop down over the shoulders, under the lap belt whilst on the
occupant and come back up and velcro to the downward running section of
strap. In effect this would be a four point harness. Main question seams to
be: is the velcro strong enough to hold in an accident or four wheeling.
Seems it should, and in either case it has to be better than no shoulder
harnesses at all.

2. I also am contemplating putting in a rollcage. If I do this I can
hopefully attach an aftermarket seatbelt configuration to the rollcage, or
follow along the lines of 1 above with the velcro idea.

3. I am hesitant to connect a shoulder harness to the hardtop because we
also have the softtop. I don't think the cloth will support and hold a bolt
through it at the same point as the hardtop :>)

Other ideas welcome. Lynn would really like to be able to strap the kids in
the back. This suggests a roll cage with shoulder straps attached to it.

Thanks,

Clayton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 17:28:02 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: overdrives for my wife's 59 88

Howdy (again),

We have taken the 88 out a number of times after doing lots of work on it. I
have taken it up a moderate grade just starting into the foothills between
Penryn and Newcastle Ca. It is floored but keeping up with traffic using the
Rochester 46 jet. I get no discernable performance increase using the 52 jet
just purchased from BP. Is this reasonable?

Given that I can at least keep up with traffic going uphill, I would like to
explore saving my ears by installing an overdrive. How much do these
generally go for, are they worth it overall, can I expect better mileage (or
am I just kidding myself here :>)  ??

Having done just a little offroading at Folsom Lake, Lynn and I are grinning
the silly grin when we make it over something we are surprised about. While
low first is great, I am wondering about the feasability/sense in swapping
the low gear in the xfer to something much lower and also installing an
overdrive. My logic on this suggests that I save the new low first for
extreme need and normally start off and drive in low 2, 3, 4, od as
appropriate in offroad situations. Of course, on road, I would use the
normal high range and transmission gears with the OD for highway. Does this
make any sense??

Thanks,

Clayton and "Rosie"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 16:54:47 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Axle

  Is a Salisbury axle conversion common on IIA
109's?  I would be interested in such a vehicle also.  Thanks in advance for
any direction!

                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                     
 It is a very simple conversion, all you require is the axle and a slightly
shorter drive shaft. A bolt in conversion.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:58:41 -0800 (PST)
From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Subject: East Coast Rover Co.

Hello
        Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the East Coast
Rover Co. in ME.  I came across their add in Hemmings Motor News and thought
they may be of service in my search for a rebuilt series IIA 109 3 door.
Appreciate it ....
                                                                Henry Stinson

------------------------------

From: "Brian Willoughby" <lndrvr@ldd.net>
Subject: Proper Chassis Paint
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:19:02 -0600

Does anyone out there know the type and make of paint that Land-Rover
applies to their frames at the factory?  If not, what is the closest
quality paint that will replicate it?  (I'm not talking buying a can of
"Rustoleum" off the rack at Wal-Mart, either.)

Thanks,
BAW

P.S.  I'm back again after a long absence and want say "Hello" to all my
old friends out there in Land-Rover Owner Land.

------------------------------

From: VOGEL@SHRSYS.HSLC.ORG
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 21:39:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: sighting

In the Feb. 24, 1996 digest Eric reported seeing Ralph Lauren's black
or very dark green D110.  Mr. Lauren has graduated to a RHD series softtop
for his fabric and wallpaper ad in the latest (April 1997) House Beautiful.
He fills it up with blue and white fabric, a chair, and a boy. Even the
non-original seats and headrests are swathed in fabric - very nicely done.

Tom Vogel
Gutman Library, Philadelphia College of Textiles
1972 SIII 88  ecurie 3
1994 D90  ecurie 4
1994 Caterham  ecurie 7

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 21:46:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: It's Hamma' time

Just tried the socket and hammer trick:  

Outstanding.  12mm socket from the K-mart $9.99 "complete socket set" with a
standard claw hammer did the trick.  A few smacks on top (with a block under
the valve) and voila!  when compressed the collarettes came out with a
minimum of muss or fuss.

Thanks to ajr and Ketil Kirkerud for the excellent tip.

Nate (The sawzall will have to wait)
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:19:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: painting prep?

Hi all, Yes I know painting has been covered , but is there a special process
for  prime coating bare alum. so it doesn`t peel.   
                                                     Thanks in advance,
                                                                        Rick
`63 SIIa 88"  "Edina"
`96 Disco     "Patsy"
`97 Blazer

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:24:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: East Coast Rover Co.

Don`t open this can of worms, everyone`s finally stopped posting negative
comments(1 or 2 unhappy campers and it seemed like weeks of the same old
thing emails  :-(  ).   Just do it and tell us how it goes. 
                                                     Rgds,  Rick
`63 SIIa 88"  "Edina"
`96 Disco     "Patsy"
`97 Blazer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:33:11 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Iron Dukes

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:

>Is the "ron Duke" 4 cylinder engine a good replacement for a 109?

You betcha.  The GM powerplant was used in at least a half-dozen marques and 
it has been "marinized" by Mercury Marine as well.  The marine unit is 
particularly desirable.  Robert Davis here in down has done quite a bit of 
work with this, changing the cam, fabricating an adapter so the stock Rover 
intake/exhaust manifolds can be used.  In stock form, it cranks out 140 hp, 
but with recamming, porting and tweaking, 160 hp are possible.  His 109, 
before he sold it, would *cruise* at 75...without overdrive.  If *seriously* 
interssted, give him a call at 757-421-3504.  (He gets a lot of calls on 
this, so if you really want the information, use your dime; don't expect him 
to call you.) They've got a 2 week old baby at home, so watch your calling 
hours.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:29:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: dual line brakes

Is it possible to convert single line to dual line , and if so what`s
involved/cost? Vehicle is a `63 SIIa 88".         Thanks in Advance, Rick

`63 SIIa 88"  "Edina"
`96 Disco     "Patsy"
`97 Blazer

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:38:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Gearsticks (chronology of)

The earlier type uses the O-ring and that type is preferred because the
o-ring only acts as a sound and vibration damper. The later style has
the cast on rubber boot (which should be round with a flat bottom and
should NOT spin on the shaft). The problem with this style (Series III)
is that once the cast on boot wears out (and unfortunately yours sounds
like it's about gone) you are screwed. Try combining the pieces that
you have - putting the earlier, O-ring style lever in the late model
housing.

Jack Walter

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Mark Ritter)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 22:43:03 -0500
Subject: Re: RE: "Storm" The facts

JWROVER@msn.com,Internet writes:

>HAY WRECKER!
>BE AN ADULT, DON'T TAKE YOR BALL AND GO HOME...STAY AND PLAY...GIVE US
>THE 
>GOODS ON THE "STORM"

>THANKS,

>JWROVER

>----------
>From: 	neil warburton
>Sent: 	Monday, March 03, 1997 2:07 PM
>To: 	Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
>Subject: 	"Storm" The facts

>Hi All.
>	Well for Mark Ritter's information I know for a fact that the Storm
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Yours Disapointedly
>	Wrecker

Well Mr. Wrecker it appears that it is me that gets to demand the
apology this time. I DID NOT WRITE the comments at the top of this
reply. I am not JW Rover. I do not know anything about Storm, though I
did write after hearing about it to find out what I could.  I do not
appreciate being flamed for another's comments. If you do know anything
about the new storm engine I certainly would like to hear about it as
would a number of folks on this list.

Mark Ritter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 19:49:24 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Axle

At  4:54 PM 3/4/97 -0500, William L. Leacock wrote:

>  Is a Salisbury axle conversion common on IIA
>109's?  I would be interested in such a vehicle also.  Thanks in advance for
>any direction!
;                                                        Henry Stinson
;
> It is a very simple conversion, all you require is the axle and a slightly
>shorter drive shaft. A bolt in conversion.
;Bill Leacock    Limey in exile
>89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.
;
You also need slightly longer 'U' bolts.  Since series III 109s came
standard with a Salisbury, just ask for a series III 109 rear prop shaft.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 20:06:30 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: dual line brakes

At 10:29 PM 3/4/97 -0500, RykRover@aol.com wrote:
;
>Is it possible to convert single line to dual line , and if so what`s
>involved/cost? Vehicle is a `63 SIIa 88".         Thanks in Advance, Rick
;

Been there done that with a 109.  For an 88 you need to collect parts for a
series III 88 (88s & 109s have some different dual break parts).  Best to
find a dead donor car.  You will need:

- series III or late IIA brake pedal assy with a good vacume booster
You unbolt your old one.  Cut the slot hole in the fire wall longer (the
pedal hinges from the other end)

- You will need new series III 88 brake lines You will probably need to
replace the old rubber lines as well).

- a series III master clutch cylinder.  It fits on your old clutch pedal assy.

- top and inner wing from a series III OR make a cutout in your old wing to
clear the booster.

- Dual master cylinder for an 88

- Brass street elbow and slide on hose fitting.  Remove plug on your intake
manifold & fir street elbow.  Run vacume hose from elbow to vacume booster.

- The brake light switch is on the pedal assy.  You will need to run a pair
of wires from the new switch to the connectors at your old switch.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 07:32:14 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: SIII gearbox in a SIIA ??

Peter Kutschera wrote:
> Hello all out there!
> Has anyone ever moved a gearbox from a SIII 6 cylinder petrol 109 SW
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
> Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

One question Peter, why?

The IIA gearbox was the strongest Landy produced, the III's was
considerably less robust. Why "upgrade" to an inferior product?
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 23:42:49 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: East Coast Rover Co.

>Hello
>        Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the East Coast
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Appreciate it ....
>                                                                Henry Stinson

Brace yerself mate...

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society
D90 SW
Keep the oily side down

------------------------------

Subject: WWW address of tool maker.
From: Youichi Tagashira <y-tagashira@nri.co.jp>
Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 14:56:23 +0900

Hello.
Please tell me WWW address of tool maker.
For instance, Snap-on, Mac-tool...
------------------------------------
 Youichi Tagashira / Defender 110SW
 E-mail:y-tagashira@nri.co.jp

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Series III
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 97 08:44:59 -0000
From: Vic Hanna <vhanna@info.bw>

>Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Can't help you in your search - but can tell you about a Series III that 
I have recently sold - in Botswana!!! I was the 4th owner of this 
fabulous 1984 Landie which has carried us across the width and breadth of 
Botswana during the past 4 years. Was fitted with a roof top tent, Warn 
8000 winch, 2 water tanks giving a total of 158 litres plus two extra 
fuel tanks  of 75 litres each giving a range of around 1100 kilometres. 
In addition had 2 sets of 6 tyres and rims - there is a need to carry 2 
spares when heading off into the bush here! (one set 760.16 - biscuits 
for the rough stuff - and the other 265.15 for the sand) -  Did lots, saw 
lots and loved it! Sold it (and a whole lot of spares) for the equivalent 
of around US$4500. Have a 95 Disco (which is not so lovable and rough and 
tough as the Series III) but, considering I am now a little older, very 
happy!
Vic Hanna
Gaborone
Botswana
95 Disco 
94 540i

------------------------------

From: "Quique Salavert" <ensafer@arrakis.es>
Subject: Price of new 110 Defender in Spain
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 09:09:40 +0100

If prices haven't changed since last month a new Defender Tdi (we can't buy
a petrol one) costs 3.911.000 Pesetas (about 28000 $) with taxes.
I'm not sure but i think that the 16% of the value is a tax called IVA and
you don't have to pay if you are not from Spain (or perhaps it was only for
people out of European EEC countries. Anybody knows?)   

Also a 90 Tdi with hardtop costs 3.386.000 with all taxes

 Quique Salavert
   ensafer@arrakis.es
   Cullera, Valencia (Spain)

There are not reasons, only feelings (MadikE)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 00:28:48 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: sighting

At 09:39 PM 3/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>or very dark green D110.  Mr. Lauren has graduated to a RHD series softtop
>for his fabric and wallpaper ad in the latest (April 1997) House Beautiful.

The latest Price/Costco (discount warehouse club) magazine has a Goodrich(?)
tire ad with a completely yellow D90 in it.  (Similar to other ads, but this
one says something like "Rover has a tough bite".)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 00:17:34 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: BELIZE LOGISTICS

At 10:21 PM 3/4/97, Mark Ritter <Modern@learnlink.emory.edu> wrote:
:As some of you may already know to enter Mexico with your vehicle you
:must show either the title, or if you're like me and still making
:payments a certified copy of the title and a permission letter from
:your lending institution saying it's OK to take the car south of the
:border. I am going to have to refinance my vehicle in order to make
:the trip as my finance company said no way. I even explained to them
:that I would be fully insured by either Sanborn's or AAA and that this
:was to help a children's hospital. I will be moving the loan to my
:credit union which I believe will be much more understanding. For your
:information the bank that would not understand was Southtrust Bank,
:which I will now be boycotting in my own little way, including a letter
:to the editorial column in the Atlanta Journal.
:You may  want to check on the reaction at you lending institution
:before you make your vacation plans.

 Insurance by Sanborn's or AAA is nothing more than Mexican insurance
 brokered by these agencies.  Don't blame Southtrust Bank or your lending
 institution for risking their equity in your automobile, as I expect
 your credit union to behave the same way.  Mexican insurance is required
 if you travel more than 100 miles into mainland Mexico, the Baja
 peninsula is excepted.  Mexican insurance will NOT repair your vehicle
 in the event of an accident, it will only pay off in the case of total
 loss of your car.  Even then, they pay what THEY think the car is worth,
 not what the US Blue Book says or what your remaining loan is.  What
 lender will take a risk like that?  One more reason to take an old
 Series truck that's fully paid for, eh?

 Another logistics point.  As I understand it, you are planning on taking
 donated FM transceivers through Mexico.  Although now permitted, until
 recently the Mexican government disallowed foreigners having or using AM
 Citizens Band transceivers.  I expect that these FM units will be turned
 back or cause problems in Mexico.

 You might also be aware that just because you passed the border into
 Mexico, does not mean free passage throughout the country.  The 100 mile
 zone from the border as above, seems to have an effect in more ways than
 one.  For instance, even in Baja, last Labor Day a group of 3 Unimogs was
 turned back from inside Mexico on the grounds of not being conventional
 tourist vehicles.  It seems they appeared a bit threatening, of course
 one was painted olive drab which didn't help matters.

 Regards,

-Michael

 VP, LROA
                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gearsticks (chronology of)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 97 8:34:31 GMT

> The earlier type uses the O-ring and that type is preferred because the
> o-ring only acts as a sound and vibration damper. The later style has
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> you have - putting the earlier, O-ring style lever in the late model
> housing.

Thanks.
The problem here, is that I suspect the grub-screw hole is bust on the ball of
the o-ring-style lever as well as the outer casing [+I'd have to drill the
old one out, not that that is much of a problem, but I risk damaging the
threads]. Actually, come to think of it, the hole/slot in the ball doesn't
need a thread - the grubscrews are unthreaded on the ends. 
Something to try tonight. Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 - as in "109 gearbox parts")

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 1997 04:46:23 -0500
From: The Richards <smrm@coastalnet.com>
Subject: Back on line! (LBC content!)

 For what it's worth, the following came across MG list, forwarded with
permission. Standard boring disclaimers about lack of financial interest . .
.so forth and so on.
 Michael, New Bern, NC 

>I am still in the
>process of bringing 2 of the  5 Rover 3500s (not SD1) cars out of the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>my shop space, but I couldn't stand to see them continue to rust and rot
>away in the forest!

>Cheers,
>Jim Boyd <gumby@joshuanet.com>
Paradise, CA
>Jim Boyd
>International Sportscar Components
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>International Sportscar Components
>Paradise, CA

------------------------------

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