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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo14[not specified]
2 Lorri Paustian [lorri@so25Re: Public Arguments
3 "Kaplan, Richard" [Kapla11e-mail address update for Rick Kaplan
4 wleacock@pipeline.com 31[not specified]
5 Rob Davis_Chicago [car4d21Re: Power Oddities
6 Rob Davis_Chicago [car4d12Re: Big Problem, Big Hole
7 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo39[not specified]
8 NADdMD@aol.com 19Re: Big Problem, Big Hole
9 Mike Gaines [106220.123412RE:LR Heaters/Air Con
10 frank01@postoffice.ptd.n21A Rover Story (need a switch)
11 Steve Stoneham [stoneham9Kaplan,Richard and email
12 Iwan Vosloo [ivosloo@cs.25Re: Diesel's
13 Iwan Vosloo [ivosloo@cs.23Re: Glow plug wiring


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Subject: Re: Serious Request for Response (No L-R Content)
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 97 07:30:09 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

"c"

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*           co-founder -   "Arkansas Land Rover Association"            *
*                 1965 Series IIA 88" Diesel - "Buford"                 *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 07:47:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Subject: Re: Public Arguments

I agree with Dixon and a few others who have voiced their opinion on this
one.  If a company on the list in the Rover business has done something
questionable and someone has a problem with them, I would prefer to know
about it and make it an open forum.  We heard both sides.  I can now decide
for myself if I wish to do business with this company in the future or not.
Those who feel this was a one time problem and it would not deter them from
doing business with that company can continue to do so.  Those who feel that
the customer was not treated fairly can keep this in mind when determining
who to take their business to when the need arises.  I feel it is an
appropriate topic on the list.
At 01:58 PM 2/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>	<sigh>  I knew I couldn't keep quiet on this subject...

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>	arrangement that had gone bad.  Though the firm fled, rather than
>	face questions, some thoughts do arise.  Did the firm benefit from
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW

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From: "Kaplan, Richard" <KaplanR@CTEP.NCI.NIH.gov>
Subject: e-mail address update for Rick Kaplan
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1997 11:51:07 -0500

Please note that, due to internal system changes, my only functional e-mail 
address (though why you might wish to send a message, I cannot imagine) 
will now be:

		rk61m@nih.gov

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From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 09:21:13 -0500

ro John writes 
Someone posted recently that glow plugs are wired in series. They're not.
Although they are not wired sequentially, like spark plugs, they are all fed
from one source and ground through the block. 
If they were wired in series, current would enter the first one, then go to
the second one, and so on, till grounding after leaving the last one. If one
should fail and short open, all would fail to heat up. 

  Sorry John, yuo are   ""Wrong""  On a series land rover, the standard
heater plugs are wired in SERIES, current passes through a resistor which
drops the voltage, then into the heater in No 4 cylinder, from there to No 3
etc and finally from No 1 to ground on the cylinder head. If ANY heater plug
or wire fails then the circuit is open and the system does not work.  When
the system fails, a trick is to keep a short lead with a couple of clips and
short each plug out in turn, until you see the warning light glow, this will
enable a start. It is not recommended however since this overloads the  others.
 it has been my experience ( over 25 years with LR diesels ) that when one
heater plug fails the best course of action is to replace then all with new
ones, or alternatively the broken one with an old one. My practise has been
to replavce them all, then keep the old ones as spares, then when the old
ones have been used up start all over again. that is in the days before
parallel wired heaters.

 Regards  
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 08:16:33 -0600
From: Rob Davis_Chicago <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Power Oddities

Hi Keith,
 Your LR sounds like mine about a month ago.  My voltmeter would show 15
volts until I was going down the highway with everything on then it
would work its way to 10 volts.  Yes it is a real problem & you can
check it by turning on everything you can & watching the headlights when
you speed up the engine.  Dim lights will show up & the gage may go
below 10 volts(try only at home).  My problem turned out to be a loose
bolt & a loose wire connecting the alt.  Check everything physically
connecting the charging system.  Work until you see the problem go away
or you find something loose.
 Why only two glow plugs for your LR isn't it a four cylinder?  I always
replace all four if I believe they have a problem. Whatch out for
starting units which often put out more then 12 volts jumping your oil
burner.  They burnout glow plugs like flash bulbs from to much voltage.
Good Luck.
Rob Davis_chicago

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 08:03:45 -0600
From: Rob Davis_Chicago <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Big Problem, Big Hole

Nate,
 It sounds like questions best answered by your machine shop source.  It
surprizing what they can fix with the right tools & skills.
 
Good Luck
 
Rob Davis_chicago

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Subject: Hardtop/Softop switch
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 97 08:43:50 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

I'm interested in switching out my tropical hardtop on my SIIA, for the 
softop.
The P.O. has installed the station wagon hardtop on this vehicle which 
still has
the tailgate and was originally a softop regular.  I don't have any of 
the hoops
or original parts to the softop.

I live in the southern U.S. and don't use my rover as a daily driver, and 
have always
liked the idea of a softop.  My rover has a loud diesel and I've been 
told that a softop
would also help reduce noise.

The hardtop is a very nice one, with the sun-sheet, alpine windows (with 
new seals)
and the original headliner and dome light. It is not the original 
limestone, as it was
painted a ligher white (although hight quality paint job), by the P.O.  
In fact,
it is pictured on our club pics page (can be found below through my 
homepage URL).
I'm sure that I could sell the top to someone and use the proceeds to 
purchase a new softop.  

Is anyone out there interested in a very good tropical roof?  E-mail me.

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*           co-founder -   "Arkansas Land Rover Association"            *
*                 1965 Series IIA 88" Diesel - "Buford"                 *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 12:02:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Big Problem, Big Hole

In a message dated 97-02-23 09:34:52 EST, you write:

<<  It sounds like questions best answered by your machine shop source.  It
 surprizing what they can fix with the right tools & skills.
   >>

I was talking to a guy I know down the road today and he supports what you're
saying.  According to him (and he rebuilds lots of engines), as long as the
block isn't cracked, it can almost always be salvaged.  They can drill out
the old cylinder sleeve and resleeve it pretty easily.  

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 12:04:24 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:LR Heaters/Air Con

Hi All,
          Eric Van Dyck says that he wants an air conditioner for georgia's
summer. Well, Eric, I want a heater that heats so wanna swop? Mine just
pushes out cold air but the sound is comforting anyway. Long Live OE? 
Cheers
MikeG
SIIIL/Wt  `Wicked Wanda'

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 09:13:46 -0800 (PST)
From: frank01@postoffice.ptd.net (Frank W.C.)
Subject: A Rover Story (need a switch)

Three years ago I was sitting in my  1969 Ser IIa watching a ligntning
storm. Being bored I decided to try out the 4 way flashers which I have
almost never used (just to see if they work). Well, wouldn't you know it, it
went foof and the switch became a charcoal briquet. 

I have not been able to find a switch since then and have jury rigged it. I
would like to make it right for inspection purposes as I'm planning to
liscence this truck again. Does anyone know where I can get said switch?

Also, the clutch is spongy and feels like it will soon need a rebuild of the
hydraulic system. How about rebuild kits. Anybody know a good outlet in
Northeastern U.S.A.? or Anywhere?

Frank

Red 1969 IIa "88"  petrol  30,000 orig mi.

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 13:23:12 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Kaplan,Richard and email

Whatever the message Richard Kaplan is trying get through my computer
doesn't like it.
Kindly change the content or stop posting it please.
Steve

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 20:31:56 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Re: Diesel's

Mark,

yes! go for it, buy a Diesel.

I have heard that some others on this list drive 55-60mph with their
diesels.  Allthough mine can could be driven at 55, I prefer to cruise
at 50.  

All this is without an overdrive.  I want an overdrive (badly), I think
it would do that kind of speed easily BUT it is a good idea on a diesel
to first fit a larger exhaust.  It gives a lot more power which the
overdrive will make good use of.

This last paragraph does not come from experience.  Its just my
dreams...but I have driven a diesel with a bigger exhaust and been a
passenger on another with a complete free-flow exhaust & manifold--both
of them also without overdrives, though.

- Iwan
( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 20:39:33 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Re: Glow plug wiring

John,

> Someone posted recently that glow plugs are wired in series. They're not.
<snip>
> to think that's series wiring, though. Or maybe LRs *are* different, but

yes, unfortunately LR's *are* different.  There is a kit you can buy
with parrallel plugs, but the standard (Lucas?) ones are in series.  The
wire goes from a resistor on the firewall into #4, from there through
all of them and from #1 to ground again somewhere--in my case to the
block.

Very silly, really, especially if one of them plugs decides to bail out
just before you want to go to work... (real experience talking) I
allways keep a spare.

- Iwan
( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

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