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From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 07:53:26 -500
Subject: Alternator Conversion Question

LR Electricians Union,
I read an article on conversion to a DelcoRemy alternator.  Two types 
were discussed: standard 30-63A(10SI) and larger frame >80A (12SI?).  
Somewhere the wiring differences were mentioned.  I have before me a 
10SI type (63A).  Three wires: one large screw terminal output and two 
spade #1 and #2 wires (field?).

Question.  Since one of the smaller wires goes to the same +V node 
as the large wire, can I not connect it to the large screw terminal at 
the alternator or is there a reason it must route independently to the 
+V node?  Mark 

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 08:20:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: four inch sills available

A few weeks ago someone asked the list, after some deep sill panels. I have
discovered that I have a set for a swb. If that individual still need them,
please get in touch with me.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 08:48:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Reassembly oil

In a message dated 97-02-21 18:56:06 EST, you write:

<< I take out the plugs about
 every six months and put about two or three tablespoons (your
 wife can tell how much this is) of Marvel Mystery oil into each
 cylinder.  I then place a socket and breaker bar onto the vibration
 dampner and turn the engine over about two turns.  I then replace
 the plugs hand snug until the next time.  YMMV >>

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the info.  I've printed it out and plan on following it pretty
closely.  What sorts of things should I replace "just because I'm in there"?
 Obviously gaskets and seals but what about valve springs, valves and guides,
and all bearings?  How does one determine if the camshaft and or blocks need
machining (crankshaft too?)

Thanks
Nate 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 09:37:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mansfield Heater

   There was some discussion on the List recently about heaters, the Mt.
Mansfield Heater from Rovers North was mentioned.  I installed one last
year, its going through it's first winter now.  It works very well, though
the Atlanta, Georgia area is not noted for requiring qreat heater output.
  The unit consists of a large core, probably designed for a Detroit
product.  It's incased in a heavy steel box that barely fits beneath the
bonnet, is ventilated by what appears to be a Frigidaire type American
blower motor encased in a larger version of the Smiths blower housing.
Being larger, it's not centered behind the grill in the fender (wing) side,
but close enough for the same foam "funnel" to work.  It will move a lot of
air - woe to anyone standing beside the air intake if the fan is on "high"
:-)  Probably most importantly to heat output - the standard thermostat is
replaced by a hotter one (92' celsius I think), and the hoses, fittings, and
valve are replaced by larger diameter parts (up from 1/2" to 5/8" if I
remember correctly).  The larger fitting to the back of the head came in a
L-R parts baggie, the new heater valve was U.S. made, mounted on the
firewall, was operated by the original cable.  The kit came with several
feet of straight generic heater hose, I used Volvo molded heater hoses for a
better "look", and less chance of crimping.
   The kit wasn't hard to install, though I had the fender off at the time -
wouldn't want to try it with the fender in the way.  The kit was priced
high, but I got it for "free" - using my "Restoration Credit Program"
earnings to get the thing.  For those unfamiliar with the program, it
rewards Rovers North customers with credit based on prior purchases.  This
takes some of the sting out of paying high prices for genuine parts.
Living in Georgia I spent last summer wishing I had a Mansfield Air
Conditioner, not Heater (wish there was such a thing), but was pleased that
the higher temp thermostat caused no problems - other than the temp gauge
always reading about 3/4 scale.
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Ga.
1973 Series III  88"

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 09:39:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BMW Owners

I bought my wife a 535i but I barely get to drive it....totally different but
fun to drive vs my favorites...
1995 Defender 90 (MY DFNDR)
1993 Defender 110 (DFNDR 2)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 10:31:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Land-Rover names

        To Paul O'Neil and anyone else who would like to see the List used
*constructively*:
        Monty Python fans might enjoy seeing the name "NOTLOB"  (Bolton, in
reverse). To my knowledge, this name is not taken.
                        
                     Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 10:55:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Brake problems

           In reference to Ben Newman,MD: 
      I had an experience a few years ago that impressed upon me the importance
of attention to detail. The project was the rebuild of a generic Girling
braking system 
using all new components, best of everything, no expense spared, etc.
      During the installation of the brake master cylinder, I was concerned
with what I 
considered to much "play" in the actuator rod between brake pedal and master
cylinder. So I installed one from my box of spares that took up all of the
lost motion;
problem solved! Until I ran the engine, that is.  Seems the mechanical
vibrations transmitted to the "taut" brake pedal (the master cylinder was
not quite in it's rest position) created a situation where when driven, the
brakes slowly "came on". And since the master never really got a "let go"
signal from the pedal, pressure built to a point that the brakes locked up.
The only way to release them was to open a bleed nipple to relieve pressure.
Then the cycle started over again. 
     This drove my nuts for a while until I put the "loose" rod back in.
     This may sound off the wall to those with brakes that work properly
(from a Land-Rover perspective) but it might be worth a look if an
unsolveable problem has similar symptoms. I'd like to hear opinions if you
have them. Ben? Check that pedal stop again. 
          Cheers,    Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 11:36:41 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Public Arguments

>    I read the list for the comraderie and information that helps keep my
> ownership of Land Rovers on an even keel! ;-)  I do not tune in to offer
> advice regarding 

My suggestion to the list is that in any Rover related business dealings
gone "bad" names of individuals/companies be left out.
Slanderous allegations are of no practical use to this list.
   As someone pointed out people get hurt,leave the list and nothing 
constructive is accomplished.
 I can email the author of the post and ask for the name myself.
I'm not here for jury duty.
If that's not an acceptable solution how about creating an alternative
list...you could name it BRAWL.(Basically Rover Arguments Whodunit
Libel)

Regards,
Steve

------------------------------

From: N4PTK@InfoAve.Net
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 12:49:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Reassembly oil

Nate,

        Just for the record, I forgot to tell you.  The assembly grease
is called "Lubriplate # 105".

        As to your question about what to replace.  Do whatever your
budget will allow.  It doesn't cost that much to have a crank turned.
But, if the engine has relatively low mileage, has been taken good
care of, and this is the first rebuild, you can probably get by with
just rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearnings, rings and a full
gasket set.  I like to replace timing chain/gear.  The camshafts of
many engines are bad to wear.  Look at the bottom of the lifters/tappets.
If they are a perfect mirrow finish and FLAT, the lifters and cam are
probably ok.  When cam/listers begin to wear, the lobes on the cam will
loose a little of their sharp peak on the high side, and the lifters will
begin to get a little concave on the bottom.  Have a machine shop mike the
crank.  If it is within tolerance and the finish is mirror smooth, use it.
If you bore the engine, of course you have to spring for new pistons, but
you can use the old rods.  They might need to be reconditioned.  A machine
shop can do that for $10.00 or so a rod.  Spend a little attention on
the main seals and oil pan gaskets.  They mean an engine re-pull if they
leak!  I would have a valve job done on the heads.  The machine shop can
look at them and tell if they need valve guides.  I do a lot of work on
flat head four cylinder jeep engines, and I always replace springs, keepers,
guides and most importantly, valve seals.

Larry
n4ptk@infoave.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 10:46:28 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re :Stainless Steel!!!

>At 04:59 PM 2/18/97 -0500, Christopher Weinbeck wrote:
>:Just had a good experience witha company and thought I'd post something
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>:(pn's 92186A542, 94804A029 and 92141A029 100per)
>:Talk about efficient, business like and easy going customer service.

Something you should be aware of about stainless steel....  Using stainless
steel fasteners on aluminum structure can result in the gradual
disappearance of the aluminum structure.  The problem is electrolysis.
Without going into a huge long description, there's a thing called the
Galvanic chart, which lists metals in the descending order of their
positive potential.  Anytime you have two metals in contact, you have the
potential for an electric current to develop.  This is accelerated by the
presence of an electrolyte, or conductor like water (not pure water,
though), road salt, moisture in accumulated dirt, etc.  The farther apart
the metals are on the Galvanic chart, the greater will be the flow of
electricity.  And the metal that's lower on the chart will be eaten away.
This is why boats have slugs of zinc attached to their hulls below the
waterline.  Zinc is very low on the chart, so it is "sacrificed" in order
to protect all the other metals on the boat.

Aluminum alloys (your Land Rover body panels) are very low on the Galvanic
chart.  Stainless steel is very high on the chart.  If you put stainless
steel fasteners through your aluminum body panels and add an electrolyte
(acid rain, road salt splashed onto the vehicle, wet mud from off-roading,
etc.) electrolysis will begin and the aluminum will become the sacrificial
metal and  begin to corrode away around the fasteners.  The potential for
this occurring is not nearly as great on a vehicle as it is on a boat or a
seaplane, but it is still there.  You're better off using aluminum
fasteners (pop rivets, etc.) or cadmium-plated steel fasteners.  Cadmium is
right above the aluminum alloys on the Galvanic chart, and so very little
current will be set up between them.

_________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 13:58:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Public Arguments

	<sigh>  I knew I couldn't keep quiet on this subject...

On Sat, 22 Feb 1997, Steve Stoneham wrote:

> My suggestion to the list is that in any Rover related business dealings
> gone "bad" names of individuals/companies be left out.

	I think the problem here is that one of the firms has been on
	this list, has provided useful information, and was faced with an
	arrangement that had gone bad.  Though the firm fled, rather than
	face questions, some thoughts do arise.  Did the firm benefit from
	participating in this list?  I would definately think so.  Did their
	helpful suggestions win them goodwill?  Again yes.  When something
	went wrong, did many think to give them the benefit of the 
	doubt?  Again, yes.  (Did they endanger all this by running away?
	I think so...) [Hmmm, I seem to remember that Renewed Traditions
	fled too, though in a much less graceful manner]

	I can conclude that if a firm is going to participate on the list, 
	they will be looked upon favourably, and will gain some 
	intangable benefit from participating.  They should however be
	prepared to answer questions and problems when they may arise.
	You can't have it both ways.  [and we do thump on them if they
	get too commerical]  This list is free market research material
	for them...  LRO is probably better for the thumping they take
	from time to time.  LRW would benefit from a read here too...

	It is one thing where I am unhappy.  We are so afraid of being sued
	that we practice self censorship.  A web site in Finland or Ghana
	or someplace where people could post messages about firms, both
	good and bad, would be beneficial IHMO.  I, for one, am interested
	in knowing what firms are good and bad.  I don't want to learn the
	hard way about a firm.  I would like to go armed with some questions
	though.  Would I use ECR?  Possibly (if I acquired LRs that way, which
	I don't being a bottom feeder), some on this list are happy with them.
	Others are unhappy.  I like to know both sides.

> Slanderous allegations are of no practical use to this list.

	Assuming they are slanderous...  What if they are true?  Newman &
	Weinbeck don't have a case vis-a-vis ECR?  Slade et al don't have a
	case against RoverWorks?

	Speaking of which, if those "old timers" on this list had spread
	the word far and wide a number of years ago, slandering a firm
	(since bankrupt by court order) called Roverworks, do you think that
	other list paricipants would have benefitted?  If my tallies are 
	correct, if we had rubbished them back when the list was newish,
	some US$250k+ could have been saved by individuals, many who are on
	this list today.  We are so fearful of being sued for liable that we 
	deliberately overlook shady operations.

	It seems silly if I got ripped of by a firm that I could say 
	nothing about it, especially when others might benefit.  I should
	wait until Chomedeley over there posts a message asking "Has anyone
	know anything about RoverWorks" before saying that they have a
	pretty shoddy track record?
	
	What about the firm or two about that are importing LRs into the
	USA that are less than 25 years old?  SHould we warn potential buyers
	that the 1989 110 County wth TDi, registered as a 1962 109 station
	wagon for customs/epa/dot purposes is really illegal, that if any 
	of these three gov't agencies get wind of it (even with valid state
	registration) that they will seize it without compensation, but maybe
	a big fine too?  Some on the list seem to think that we should err
	and stay quiet.  In fact, I recently received an email about a 1986
	110 county being sold by Renewed Traditions.  Should I have told the
	chap that the US$19,000 price sounded fair, that the vehicle from
	the description sounds fine?  Or should I have told him that the
	vehicle is in the USA illegally, it could be seized, that chopping
	the right horn off and welding on another doesn't count as far
	as the USA gov't is concerned...

	{I digress... soap opera off...}

	Rgds,

1.	In fairness to Roverworks, they did produce some fine vehicles.
	They just had a habit of taking on far too much work, taking 
	deposits from people to fund ongoing restorations, had a production
	line that ran in months for things that take hours to do...  I 
	understand the courts will decide more on this one.

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 14:54:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Glow plug wiring

Someone posted recently that glow plugs are wired in series. They're not.
Although they are not wired sequentially, like spark plugs, they are all fed
from one source and ground through the block. 
If they were wired in series, current would enter the first one, then go to
the second one, and so on, till grounding after leaving the last one. If one
should fail and short open, all would fail to heat up. 
I can see how the one wire or strip connecting all glow plugs would cause one
to think that's series wiring, though. Or maybe LRs *are* different, but
that's the way all the systems I've seen/worked on are (CAV in Peugeots,
Bosch on VWs Volvos and MBs).
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 14:55:11 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: Ifor Williams Trailers address for Thorsten Klein's friend

Hi Thorsten,
 Its  Ifor not Lfor-- so thats probably why your friend could not find it.
Their trailers are very good but  are not cheap.

The address is:
IFOR WILLIAMS TRAILERS LTD.,
Cynwyd,
Corwen,
Clwyd
LL21 0LS
UK

Tel +(44)-1490-2527
Fax:+ (44)-1490-2770

Cheers,
Mike Gaines
Slll L/Wt, `Wicked Wanda'

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 11:55:27 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Public Arguments

Good ol' Dixon said:

>	<sigh>  I knew I couldn't keep quiet on this subject...

And he said a bunch of other good stuff.  Made me rethink my position a bit.
While I was finding some of the discussion pretty tedious, I agree with
Dixon that the process can have benefit.  I'm close friends with Mike who
got burned by Roverworks (in fact that business had something to do with our
really getting to know each other) and am glad I learned about that because
I was pretty interested in what RW was doing.  Only lack of money may have
kept me from being similarly burned.

>1.	In fairness to Roverworks, they did produce some fine vehicles.
>	They just had a habit of taking on far too much work, taking 
>	deposits from people to fund ongoing restorations, had a production
>	line that ran in months for things that take hours to do...  I 
>	understand the courts will decide more on this one.

Sounds a lot like Social Security...

Thanks, Dix,

Granny

PS  This is likely to be the subject of a future "Roving the Net" column so
I'll even welcome private comments from those who don't want to put them on
the list.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 21:20:59 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Latest development of the list

Dear all, many fellow LRO's have complained about the contents and tone, and 
I am sure more than a few have left quietly. I notice the same phenomenon on 
some other lists I am on. I think it is just that this winter has been 
dragging on for a while, and our spirits (at least further north) are low; 
we take offense easily and there are no great trips and hilarious meetings 
to report. Even waving activity is below average, I am sure. So please don't 
dispair. Spring is just around the corner, and this list will be the best 
thing since bottled beer again!

Look out! The days are getting longer!
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 21:20:53 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Australian Advertiser

lroshop@idirect.com asked:

>Should I be happy or upset that LRO SHOP is not on the list? (of meta-links 
by this Advertiser)

I am sure it was just an oversight on their part. Now you will be!
Regards

Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Mark Ritter)
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 18:48:29 -0500
Subject: Diesel's

An upcoming profit sharing check might make it possible for me to 
obtain a Series Rover. I'm just considering it now, but if I do end up
taking the plunge I was curious about the highway cruising ability of a
21/4 diesel w/overdrive. Not for long trips obviously but will it do
55-60 for my trips to the airport? I have always had an atttraction for
diesels and the cost of smuggling a 300Tdi into my Disco is quite
prohibitive (@ $9000), so I'll need to get my fix elsewhere. I am going
to keep the Disco of course (I still love it) Problem is I finally have
it just the way I want it and I need a new toy to play with in the
shop. Just don't tell Terri Ann Wakeman. If she heard I was thinking of
geting a series truck she'd no doubt go into shock!

Mark Ritter
94 Disco (squeaky)
96 4.0 SE  (wife's)  yes it has been off road, just don't tell her.
this space vacant for Rover # 3

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 19:53:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: "Stephen"

  Saw this on the "Quattro" list the other day. I apologize for not getting
the poster's name as well. I guess this is a 'pub ballad' (only slightly
'bawdy'), or perhaps just a rhyme? I don't know if series LR's have a
black/blue wire (a lot of mine look the same ("yeah, give me 150' of the
yellow stuff...")). Dixon previously posted the standard wire color
designations for British cars to me, but I can't find it for beans! Well, at
least I might know 1 wire, and on a first name basis at that! Seeing how the
list has been lately, I'll add that this is posted *only* for potential LR
content. If anything in it offends, just go play in the mud.....
  As posted= 
~~~~~~~~~~
The black/blue circuit is known to the cogniscenti as "Stephen", after a
brand 
of ink sold in the UK - "Stephens":
 
         Mary in a mountain glen
         Seduced herself with a fountain pen
         The pen cap broke and the ink went wild
         She gave birth to a blue/black child
 
         [Chorus]
         
              They called the bastard Stephen
              They called the b-a-s-t-a-r-d Stephen
              'Cos that was the name of the ink
 
~~~~~~~~~~~
see 'ya on the old road...
jim '61 88"  w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs  (econobox?)  "Nicky"
Bethel, Vt.
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Subject: camel trophy
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 21:34:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Daphne Lowe" <lowedaph@pilot.msu.edu>

I was visting the Land Rover home page, and I'm curious about something. How do
they qualify drivers for the Camel Trophy? I mean, how do they determine who is
going to represent the countries?

Just curious,

Daphne

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 21:48:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Big Problem, Big Hole

Hi all,

Got the head off the "rebuild" project today and found the reason I couldn't
get the engine to turn:  Big hole in piston head # 4 with associated minor
damage to the head over piston # 4.  Looks like a connecting rod sized hole.
The questions I have are....

If I take this to a machine shop, assuming no crack in the block, can the
block be salvaged or is this a write-off

Is the the head salvagable if it is not cracked.

I am assuming major damage to the crankshaft and possibly the camshaft

On a brighter note, I was able to get the IIa's engine to turn by hand so at
least 2 of the 3 engines are salvagable.

Thanks for any input

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 22:54:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re :Stainless Steel!!!

Posted to this list previously:
"Metal corrodes in this order: K Na Ca Mg Al Zn Fe Pb H etc."

Cheers!!
John(*) Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
*what?!?throw away a vital piece of information, not while there's space on
*my* hard drive!!
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Subject: Power Oddities
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 97 22:27:07 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Well, the sale of my SIIA "Buford" is temporarily (and maybe 
indefinitely, unless someone
out there is interested) on hold, due to some last minute glow plug 
problems and subsequent
fear of these burned out glow plugs on the part of the buyer.  Anyway, 
I've got two new
heater plugs on order from Altantic British and this should solve the 
problem.  I'm
actually a little relieved that old "Buford" didn't sell, as I've gotten 
really attached
to the old guy.

Anyway, where I need the help is in some strange power readings I'm 
getting on the 
voltmeter in my SIIA.  Yes it was fitted by the P.O. with a voltmeter, 
which I rely
on to tell me the status of the battery and indirectly the dynamo.  (the 
ammeter is
currently on the blink).

I have just recently had the dynamo rebuilt at a local alternator shop 
and they did
a good job.  The rover is now negative earth (also a trick on the part of 
the P.O.).

Today, while driving around, I noticed that the voltmeter (hooked in line 
with the pos.
battery lead), was reading a little over 12 volts (like it should) at the 
lower engine
RPM's and for some reason would drop to around 10 volts when out on the 
highway with the 
engine humming along in the higher RPM ranges.  This doesn't seem to make 
sense, as the
faster the dynamo is turning, the more amps it should put out, right?  
Could there be some
trouble in a relay/regulator or could there be a problem in the newly 
rebuilt dynamo?
I don't have alot of electrical testing equipment (yet!), so I can't tell 
you much about
what the dynamo is putting out.  I guess I need to get the ammeter 
working to know more.

If anybody has any insight, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks and bear with me while I learn more and get up to snuff with the 
rest
of you.

Keith

Keith W. Cooper,MD
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*           co-founder -   "Arkansas Land Rover Association"            *
*                 1965 Series IIA 88" Diesel - "Buford"                 *
*                          1996 Discovery SE                            *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 00:11:53 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Broken clutch pressure plate springs

I was having a problem with my clutch which resulted in no increase in 
speed when you increased RPM.  I opened the transmission bell housing 
today and found that the centre unit on the diaphram type pressure plate 
was distorted.  It looks like some of the fingers on one side gave way 
and the pressure plate only had pressure on one area.  The drive plate 
was blue from heat and the friction plate was badly roughed up.  Has 
anyone else had this type of failure where only one side lets go and you 
don't get proper friction?
Can anyone date a transmission that has the suffix "F"?  When did the "F" 
series transmissions come into production?

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: BMW Owners
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 16:45:22 +1030

I enjoy the bush in my Series III LWB Soft Top, and I enjoy the city in my
323i. Its a great combination except when  the 323 decides to play up. Its
a little too electronic to do much repair work on the roadside.
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: David M. Schwarz <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Date: Monday, 17 February 1997 07:29
> Pedro noticed that many people on the list also own BMWs.  Such info> bad
idea.  I've been hoping that the new GPS system available in the BMW

> From: David M. Schwarz <dschwarz@pipeline.com>

------------------------------

From: N4PTK@InfoAve.Net
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 02:48:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Power Oddities

>voltmeter (hooked in line with the pos.
>battery lead), was reading a little over 12 volts (like it should) at the 
>lower engine RPM's and for some reason would drop to around 10 volts when
out on the 
>highway with the engine humming along in the higher RPM ranges.

Keith,

        My feeling is that the voltmeter really tells you in what
condition your battery is in, not how many amps the alternator is
putting out.  You don't need a lot of expensive equipment.  Go to
an auto parts store and buy an amp meter-$20.00?.  Then connect it in the
output line from the regulator.  Alternators should (unlike the
older generators) put out a constant voltage at any RPM.  This
should tell the tale.  BTW, the correct voltage should be about
14.7, not 12 volts on the battery.  However, if you have a lot
of accessories running while you're driving such as blower motor,
heatlights, radio, etc. etc., they pull a lot of amps.  If the
amps pulled are more than the alternator can produce, my understanding
is that the voltage will drop.  Someone else may have a better explaination
of that for you.

Larry matthews
n4ptk@infoave.net
               What's needed on the information superhighway
                        is a good four wheel drive

 

------------------------------

From: N4PTK@InfoAve.Net
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 02:56:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re :Stainless Steel!!!

>...............
>Posted to this list previously:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Cheers!!
>John(*) Dillingham in Woodstock, GA

John,
        I thought I remembered reading somewhere a few years
back that LR had developed some sort of "induced" current flow
through the frame, cab, etc. of LR vehicles that would neuteralize
the transfer of vulnerable metals?  Do you know?
Larry
n4ptk@infoave.net

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Bush Tucker Man
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 97 22:37:00 EST

I notice that "The Bush Tucker Man" is back on ABC (Australia that is) on 
Saturday evening at 6 o'clock.

They are the old episodes (1986, I think) being repeated.  Les Hiddens is 
driving a diesel 110 2-door soft top pickup and it has Royal Australian Army 
number plates and unit badges (dunno what they are called but they are the 
plates about 4 inches square).  He is also in Army uniform and sporting his 
epaulettes with his Major rank.  Thes episode were obviously shot when he 
was still in tha Army.  The Bell Jet Ranger helicopter is piloted by, 
according to the credits at the end, Army aircrew.

Tonight's episode was in the north of Australia in the Wet (Australian for 
the monsoon season).  Lots of good shots of the Landie slithering thru the 
mud  whilst towing an army trailer (plus creek crossing).

It's unusual for an army LR in that it has what appears to be an electric 
winch at the front.

I know you NAS readers are wondering what the heck I'm talking about but if 
you ever see "The Bush Tucker Man"  listed in your TV guides, watch it.  It 
is a documentary series made by the ABC in conjuction with the Royal 
Australian Army.  Les Hiddins was a Major in the Army whose job was, I 
believe, to drive around Australia cataloguing plants and animals on which 
soldiers could survive in the bush.

Regards,

Ron (lurking on the side) Beckett
'87 RR (unnamed as yet but normally called "The Rangie")

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: MOT info needed.
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 97 22:42:00 EST

Mike Cattell Wrote:

Here is a general list taken from a fail certificate, I seem to have a
lot of these!!! Hope it helps :)

>LIGHTING EQUIPMENT

snipped pages of stuff through to

>Glazing

Hey, Mike, no wonder your Landie failed the MOT if you had *all* those 
problems! 8->

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 06:39:58 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Broken clutch pressure plate springs

n?
> Can anyone date a transmission that has the suffix "F"?  When did the "F"
> series transmissions come into production?

11/70

Steve

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