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From: "david alan swap" <95051210@95.humber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:30:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Help!!!!

> Date:          09 Feb 97 20:34:17 +0000
> Subject:       Help!!!!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> To:            Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
> X-To:          lro@playground.sun.com

> From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
> Hi there All,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 42 lines)]
> | Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
> | Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com
There is another solution!

I've heard that you can get hold of a screw in sleave so as to retain 
the original plugs.

i'm asking around for more info so i'll let you know as soon as I 
find out!

TAZ!

P.S. You could always sell it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:22:38 +0100
From: u940470@studbo.hit.no (Bengt M Tovslid)
Subject: Powersteering

Do anybody now  something about powersteering to LR-IIA, names on firms who 
pruduse things like that?

Bengt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 16:38:44 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Rochester Carb on a 2.25 LR

  >.  I would also not convert to a Weber unless there was a way of utilizing 
  >the Land Rover's original oil-bath air cleaner.  
  
My Weber uses the oil bath. I think you are thinking of the two barrel 
Weber which does not tkae the oil bath. Since the top of the 34ICH is 
smaller than the intake elbow, it comes with an adapter ring so that the 
two can mate...

Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: castle nutes & circlips (cont)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 13:45:36 GMT

finally. they're off. The gearbox is now virtually dismantled. There are a 
couple of bearings still in housings, but if push comes to shove, I could
always purchase new housings or whatever.

The castle nut required *two* scaffold poles - one to hold the flange!

Now I just need some money to buy the replacement bits...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 08:47:43 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: Spark Plugs

Spark Plugs........In the latest OVLR, the plugs mentioned for use in
the 2.25  8:1 compression were Champion RN11YC4.    I've always used
RN12YC.   What's the difference, and how will the choice afftect the
performance?

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 05:50:54 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg%AM@MR.sun.com>
Subject: Freewheeling Hubs

Anyone out there give me info on the care and feeding of freewheeling hubs?

Thanks
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:05:35 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: Solihull Emails

Does anyone have an Email address for those lovely folks at LandRover in
Solihull?  I'm trying to inquire as to whether or not they have a logo
design in mind for the 50th anniversary in '98.

The name of someone in PR would be a great help, even if I have to use
snail mail.

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 14:12:39 GMT

> Thanks
> Paul G
> SIII SWB "Grendal"

A name with class. A monster from the earliest known piece of British
Literature. Beats "Alice" for my SIII!

Richard 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:30:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

>> SIII SWB "Grendal"
>A name with class. A monster from the earliest known piece of British
Literature. Beats "Alice" for my SIII!
>Richard
>A name with class. A monster from the earliest known piece of British

British Literature - Isn't that an oxymoron, like British Cuisine? 8*) 8*)
8*)

aj"Just kidding - my favourite author is Arthur Conan Doyle!"r

Re: Freewheeling hubs:

The best thing to do with them is use them regularly - some folks suggest
locking them for 20% of your road time to keep the bearings and such in the
swivel housing splash-lubed. Personally, I tends about 10% on that - run
'em 1 day a week locked.

The biggest problewm with them is that the jam if not rotated regularly -
the differential corrosion of the brass and aluminum and steel tends to
weld them into an immovable mass.

If they're stiff now, I'd personally recommend a good disassembly, greasing
and cleaning - they'll work like new  then.

               ajr/ Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 06:45:14 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: Re: Help!!!!

At 12:30 17-02-97 GMT, you wrote:
>There is another solution!
>I've heard that you can get hold of a screw in sleave so as to retain 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>find out!
>TAZ!

I'm came in a little late here so if this doesn't refer to stripped
spark(ing) plugs holes please excuse me.

If it does, then you can buy heli-coil inserts at any auto parts store, at
least in the US. Usually two in a package, with adhesive and the little
tool for about $5 US. Used them on alum motorcycle heads more than once.
Follow the directions included and make sure the original threads are CLEAN
and they should work fine.

Regards,
-jj
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Joe Schaefer
Nordland, WA USA
mailto:joes@olympus.net
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 06:56:50 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

>Anyone out there give me info on the care and feeding of freewheeling hubs?
>Thanks
>Paul G

Paul,

If you run them unlocked most of the time you should lock them in once in
awhile for a couple of miles to keep them lubed. Other than that I just
grease  them when I lube the wheel bearings every 20k miles or so. Of
course if you do a lot of water crossings they should be done more often.

Regards,
-jj

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Joe Schaefer
Nordland, WA USA
mailto:joes@olympus.net
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 16:04:36 UT
From: "Orin Harding" <NAMGBR@msn.com>
Subject: UK Events

Does anyone know of a web site that carries a list of Land Rover related 
events in the UK?  Thanks, Orin

------------------------------

From: "Delve, Trefor" <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 16:08:00 GMT

All,

On the insurance thread.  I never managed to get a quote from NFU.  This   
was some time ago now but I seem to recall that it was because I was   
living in Reading and not a farmer or anything remotely agricultural.

In the end I had a good quote from Adrain Flux (some others on the 'net   
are with them) who didn't even flinch when I told them it (SIII, SWB) had   
a 3.0L V6.  This year the renewal was still competitive although I didn't   
phone too many companies as those who would consider insuring wanted   
engineers reports.

Mind you, Adrian Flux wanted to know everything about the conversion and   
the vehicle - from what vehicle the engine was sourced, who carried out   
the conversion, changes to wheels, brakes, carburation, drive train.  My   
impression was that they weren't too worried what was done providing they   
knew about it.  Whilst it was a pain filling the forms in, it was   
refreshing to know that the premium represented an assessment of the risk   
as opposed to the type of quotes obtained from Admiral, Direct Line etc.   
on standard road cars.

Fortunately, as yet I haven't had to make a claim.  If I ever do I hope   
they will be just as good.

Regards,

Trefor  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:25:22 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: ECR

>When we hear that the shipping paperwork has been delivered, that might be
>a reason to let it lie.
>               aj"And the truth shall set you free"r

        I just mailed every piece of paper I had on Chris' Rover to him.
Some are copies of bills, as I need the originals for tax reasons. Chris
made his own deal with the owner of the Rover in the UK. If I knew who it
was or where the Rover came from, or his phone number I'd ask him for a
bill of sale, etc. But I never had any contact with the seller... I was the
shipping agent, nothing more.
        The bill was for 65 bucks, the Maine state registration fee, plus
the excise tax.
        Sorry you all had to get into this.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Restoration, Custom work, and More
               Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: "Delve, Trefor" <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Insurance
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 16:20:00 GMT

All (well all outside of the UK any way)

I sent that last mail to the wrong list, sorry.

Trefor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 08:36:17 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: castle nutes & circlips (cont)

Richard Marsden wrote:

> The castle nut required *two* scaffold poles - one to hold the flange!

!!  What's that, about 1500 ft/lbs?  I'd be checking the thread and 
integrity of that shaft.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:04:57 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: ignore

test

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:21:12 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Dual oil/Temp gague

>In a message dated 97-02-14 14:27:34 EST, you write:
>> It is Nisonger, they are in Long Island NY, Mamoroneck or some odd
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Thanks
>Rgds
>Steve

        Nisonger Inst.
        570 Mamoroneck Ave.
        Mamoroneck, NY  10543

        914.381.1952

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Restoration, Custom work, and More
               Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:21:35 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Dual oil/Temp gague

>From: ASFCO@aol.com
>Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 22:00:05 -0500 (EST)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>Rgds
>Steve

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Restoration, Custom work, and More
               Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 12:23:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

>Anyone out there give me info on the care and feeding of freewheeling hubs?

Yes...  Take them off.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 19:41:49 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

Sanna@aol.com wrote:
> >Anyone out there give me info on the care and feeding of freewheeling hubs?
> Yes...  Take them off.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Middleton, WI  53562
> 1-800-373-7226
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

I've been here before...
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:44:52 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

At 12:23 17-02-97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Anyone out there give me info on the care and feeding of freewheeling hubs?
>Yes...  Take them off.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Yes...  Take them off.
>Anthony R. Sanna

Anthony,
I've been running 'manual' free wheeling hubs on various rigs for 25 years.
I've blown one (spicer) in that time and it was in a truck w/135K hard 4wd
miles. It was a company truck used in the mineral exploration business with
hubs locked most of the time. One of my trucks has 158k miles with locking
hubs and they were in great shape at 156k miles when I put in new wheel
bearings.
I'm curious as to why you would want to remove them?

Regards,
-jj

------------------------------

From: Richard Lucking <lucking@3s.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Freewheeling Hubs
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 17:50:29 -0000
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

....because they do nasty things to the swivel pins if you don't engage them enough????

----------
From: 	Joe Schaefer[SMTP:joes@olympus.net]
Sent: 	17 February 1997 17:48
Subject: 	Re: Freewheeling Hubs

I'm curious as to why you would want to remove them?

Regards,
-jj

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC1CFB.1F294A60

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 10:27:09 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: Hubs

Someone said manual hubs will eat the spindles if you don't use them? 

Bingo! 
That's not the fault of the hubs, that's *lack of maintenance*.

If you don't change oil in your engine and it wears out in 50k miles, do
you blame it on the oil you're using?

IMHO the wear and tear manual hubs save on the front differential and the
possible fuel savings by not having to turn the front axle constantly, far
outweigh the little bit of effort it takes to lock 'em in once a month or
so before going to the store.

Regards,
-jj
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Joe W. Schaefer
Nordland, WA USA
maito:joes@olympus.net
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: PirateJWG@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:40:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 13:46:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

>I'm curious as to why you would want to remove them?

You must be new to the list.  

The hubs thread pops up at least once a year, and, like the flavor debate 
between chocolate & vanilla ice cream lovers, personal preference has a 
lot to do with the opinions posted. I'm going to tread lightly on this 
one to avoid the flames.  

If they're already on your truck & in good shape, keep them and lock them 
periodically to lube the inards.  But, IMHO, if you don't have them, 
don't buy them, and if they're in questionable shape, toss them.  
Lulubelle, my '70 IIa, has never had hubs and at 342,000 miles, the front 
drive train from the transfer case to the hubs (except wheel bearings) is 
the only part of the truck that has never been worked on - factory fresh. 
 I bought the Rover new in 1970, and for most of the next ten years it 
was driven very hard off road/no road doing similar survey work in the 
Southwest.  Now I've past it on to my son at the U of O in Eugene.  So 
here's my reasoning...

...keep it simple.  I love the Rover because it IS simple, why complicate 
it with parts that need maintenance, can break, do little, and, IMO, 
reduce the flexibility of the truck.  There are other opnions out there 
and I'm sure you'll hear them all.

Happy Hubbing!

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 02:58:43 -0800
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Free Wheeling Hubs

Locking in the hubs once a month would hardly do the trick. To 
understand exactly what is happening when you do lock in or lock out is 
more important. When you are locked in, your axle u-joints get a chance 
to spin in the gear oil, throwing it up all over the inside of the swivel 
balls, effectively washing the balls on the outside surface behind the 
large swivel ball seal. If not locked in, this oil remains at the bottom 
of the ball and goes for a ride. Every time you make a turn to the left 
or right the "dry" oil seals scratch across the swivel and starts to 
destroy the integrity of the hardchrome. This leads to all sorts of 
things, such as premature oil seal failure, leaking of the seals and 
consequently water and debris ingress. A days good driving on ashpalt 
"unlocked" will realy dry up those swivel balls (Lower half will be ok 
because of the oil level) Also the top will not get the proper lub and 
premature wearout will occur. With dirt and water ingress you now have a 
powerful force at work attacking your hub seals (and races),and your 
wheel bearings. I have a 1962 88 and the swivel balls are still like new 
( no hubs, as they were originally designed by BL ) Keep them locked in!!
 Con Seitl
 1973 III   Pig
 1962 IIa   Millie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 14:08:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

On Mon, 17 Feb 1997 Sanna@aol.com wrote:

> The hubs thread pops up at least once a year, and, like the flavor debate 
> between chocolate & vanilla ice cream lovers, personal preference has a 
> lot to do with the opinions posted. I'm going to tread lightly on this 
> one to avoid the flames.  

	On can compromise.  You can have FWH, neglect them, have them seized
	while engaged, thius satisfying both requirements!  Wonder who would
	do this type of thing...  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 11:35:41 -0800
From: Joe Schaefer <joes@olympus.net>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

At 13:46 17-02-97 -0500, you wrote:
>You must be new to the list.  

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

>You must be new to the list.  
>The hubs thread pops up at least once a year, 

Yep, been gone a year or so. My apologies for replying to a well worn thread.

Regards,
-jj

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 15:02:02 -0600
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Hubs

At 11:35 AM 2/17/97 -0800, you wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>-jj
>Don't apologize!  There are a few as yet Roverless FNGs such as myself who
appreciate hearing both sides of the debate!!  Keep it up.

Cheers,
Wes Harris.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 15:41:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Who are you, again?

Would the person who was/is compiling the VIN #s of NAS 110s please e-mail me
directly--->    spyders@aol.com

Thanks.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 19:40:59 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Jerry can rust (2)

All,

thanks for all the responses.

To those who think it's a BAD idea:  I was not planning on just using
them straight away--my injectors, dist pump have been overhauled 4000kms
ago.  I think I am going to buy them and try the pebbles trick and the
rust converter trick.

Anyone still sceptic?  (I'm not sarcastic, just really paranoid)

Paul said:  
<<Most good (NATO spec) jerrys are enameled on the inside anyway.>> 

...and

Jamy said:
<<My jerry cans have a red oxide type coating on the inside, are you
sure its
rust?>>

these are old RSA army stuff.  So (Paul): what do they have?  the enamel
or the oxide or is this the same thing?  I guess one has to be careful
with the pebbles not to damage the whatever coating is on the inside? 
...but I guess the water-based rust converter would be ok no matter
what?

They look like they have some oxide coating, but the trouble is that you
cannot see inside.

   
Alan said:
<<Think of all the underground fuel tanks that you buy fuel from...>>

I'd rather not.

- Iwan Vosloo
( '75 SIII 88" Diesel)

PS: For those who did not see 'the pebble trick' (from Erik):

<<A good way to get old jerry cans clean on the inside is to put some 
fuel (diesel or pertol, whatever you're using) in together with a few 
hands of small CLEAN pebbles. Next close they jerry can and shake it for
a 
few minutes in such a way that whole inner surface of the jerry can 
is reached. Repeat until the fuel comes out clean.>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 07:16:50 +1100
Subject: Re: DANISH? SIII side door top sections
From: "Miss 4wd's" <anda@fwd.com.au>

Dear Adrian,
We have all the parts and information you need for your series three we are
the mail order land rover specialiats. All prices are in Australian dollars.
DOOR TOP $100.00
TRIM $40.00
ALUMINIUM CLADDING WILL HAVE TO BE BOUGHT SEPERATLY. YES THEY CAN BE ORDERED
SEPERATLY. WE ARE THE BEST AND WE ARE ON EMAIL TO HELP YOU. 
Please also ask me about our spare parts catalgue totally dedicated to
series Land Rovers. I hope this helps you.
Cheers,

Miss 4wd's

http://www.fwd.com.au/

Melbourne Australia
IF IT IS OFF A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE WE'VE GOT IT.. AND WE'LL GET IT TO YOU!

                                                         _______
                                                       //_/_|__\___
                                                       \_ - ___ - _4wd
                                                         (o)   (o)

----------
> From: loevehjerte@eadata.dk
> To: channel6@post2.tele.dk
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 54 lines)]
> Bogholder Alle 48 A
> DK-2720 Vanloese
> Tlf/fax: 38 71 71 55

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 17:11:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lrw Mag

Perhaps all the recent whinging over the content of LRW magazine has had some
effect. I understand that assistant editor Paul Entwhistle is shortly leaving
the mag for pastures new. 

All applications for the post to Allan Kidd at 100553.242@compuserve.com,
remember you heard it here first. 

Mike Rogers 
Lightweight / Range-Rover Hybrid ( as seen in LROI )

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 18:04:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Safari Guards + V8 ECUs

Could you post,since I tried to pull up url (could not retrive on server)v8
ECUs 
thanks in advance,   Rick

`96 Disco  "Patsy"
`63 SIIa     "Edina"
`97 Blazer  "it was free ~~ what the hell"

------------------------------

Subject: Jerrycans
From: robot1@juno.com (Mark E Hardig)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:26:50 EST

>I need some jerry cans & can get 2nd hand ones for a good price, but
>like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
>on the inside.

I once cleaned some 1 gallon rectangular oil cans by filling them about
1/4 full of sand and putting them in a paint shaker. Polished the puppies
glass smooth on the inside in about 5 minutes. 

I also have used an old cement mixer (with the vanes burnt out on the
inside) filled with sand to polish small parts. About 2 hours will make
the nastiest old bolts, etc. look pretty! Don't do anything with machined
surfaces, unless you are making paperweights.

Mark

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Mark Ritter)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:33:36 -0500
Subject: PAP, Perforated aluminum plate

Anybody know a source for this stuff in the US other than Rovers North
of BP? I have seen some ludicrous prices for 2 pieces in RN catalogs.
there must be a pile of it somewhere 'cause the military had a bunch of
it made for Vietnam.

Mark Ritter
94 Disco
I wave at all Rovers! Some even wave back.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:50:11 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: ECR Problems, Response???

Thanks everyone for your support and for your patience in wading through
this. (at least it's not greatings from Costa Rica :-)

I'm not sure about the point of the following post.

>Dear all,
>        Guess I'm glad the 68 extra lines of my useless >venting didn't hit
the main list. I have been off the list >for a week or two, so who knows
what is going on. For those >who know us well, you know what we are about...
for others, >keep the faith and remember you can't please everyone. I >think
we are doing pretty well. 3.5 years as a full time >Rover place, with 3
nasty client incodents, I'd like to >have none, but I'll have to settle for
1 bad time per year.
>        Have a great day all!
>From: Mike Smith
>East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086

This answers no questions for me.

I still haven't recieved the bill that I'm now supposed to "disregard" -I
was told it was mailed on 2-10-97.

I'm unable to prove that I own the 109" I paid for over a year ago.  (never
mind demonstrate that it was legally imported)

In my business a "nasty client [incident]" is when someone contracts with me
for goods/services, recieves them as promised, benefits and then refuses to
pay the agreed amount. (twice in eleven years thank you.)  -not when I am
untimely, exceed the agreed price and refuse to deliver the goods even after
full payment has been made.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional        
 
               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 20:02:11 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: UK events

HI,

Things are progressing at my usual pace.  We are planning to be in England
and Ireland from May 1-19.  First few days in England, 10-?? days in
Ireland, then back to England to the airport and home.
My latest LROI lists events in March and the Easter Bank holiday. The
dormobile club lists one event May 21-5 at Paddock Wood (I have to find
where that is) and that's about all I know.

Would anyone with info about Land Rover events email me with dates and
locations?

Thanks,

John F Hess                       1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 00:27:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:Dual oil/Temp gague

On Fri, 14 Feb 1997, ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.) wrote:
>>What  is the name of the place that rebuilds the dual oil/Temp gague? I think
>>it is Nisonger but I can't remember the rest..
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>        It is Nisonger, they are in Long Island NY, Mamoroneck or some odd
>name like that. 

Its Mamaroneck, NY.  In Weschester County, just north of NYC.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 00:27:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re:ecr & Registration (fwd)

On Fri, 14 Feb 1997, cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck) wrote:

>It's not that simple, it seems.  In order for documents from England to be
>any use I need the important ones -a Certificate of Permanent Export, Used
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>have had in order to bring my 109" into the country in the first place.
>They said they don't have them.
If worst comes to worst, you can re-title the vehicle in the 'states.  Look in 
Hemmings or Antique Automobile (let me know if you don't find anything as I can 
find it here) for an outfit that advertises titles for sale.  What they do is 
"buy" your vehicle, register it in their state (Georgia is one state that allows 
this) and then they "sell" it back to you with a transferrable registration.  
You just walk into your local DMV and tell them you bought your vehicle from a 
dealer in Georgia. Show them the registration (already signed over to you) and 
they should give you plates, etc. no problem.  I've done this a couple times on 
rebuilt vehicles that I bought without a title or registration and it worked 
fine....costs about $150.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 00:43:35 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>Does anyone know where to get the  "Defender"  or "Land Rover"  big decals
>that are on the inside windshields (top) of Camel Trophy D110's??
>please let me know    -tre

Hey, Tre'... Just had to say howdy.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society
D90 SW

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: castle nutes & circlips (cont)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 97 9:01:48 GMT

> Richard Marsden wrote:
> > The castle nut required *two* scaffold poles - one to hold the flange!
> !!  What's that, about 1500 ft/lbs?  I'd be checking the thread and 
> integrity of that shaft.

Well, not proper scaffold poles - I exagerated. Perhaps they were third
length.
After my chiselling attempts, I've got a castle nut on my list of required
bits.
If the shaft goes right the way through to the dog clutch (I think it does),
then I need one of them too anyway...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Solihull Emails
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 21:35:46 +1030

On my last visit to Solihul, the PR guy who was all over us was a bloke by
the name of Vin Hammersley - that was 4 or 5 years ago, and I don't know if
he is still there
Hope this helps
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Stratford, Ontario
> Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 06:20:23 -0400
Subject: Re: PAP, Perforated aluminum plate

Re: Perforated aluminum plate:

Go to a scrapyard or a metal-supply house - they'll have plenty if you're
willing to dig a bit.

                         ajr

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