Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Steve Stoneham [stoneham15Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
2 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi22Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
3 "Bren & Lynne' Workman" 66Re: Ser I Universal Covers
4 lisad1@idt.net (Gregory 31Re: 1995 Discovery 5 Spd With 10500 miles (fwd
5 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu24Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
6 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo18Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
7 "Bren & Lynne' Workman" 53A Rover Story
8 Land_Rovers@learnlink.em15Re: Hello there...
9 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit14wheel bearings
10 wleacock@pipeline.com 23[not specified]
11 Adrian Redmond [channel650Whoopie! (SIII whoopies)
12 Nick Fankhauser [nickf@c28New member, old question
13 Adrian Redmond [channel637DANISH? SIII side door top sections
14 john hess [jfhess@wheel.23starter pinion spring
15 "Erik HupjTheta" [37821924 Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
16 IBEdwardp@aol.com 10Re: Dual oil/Temp gague
17 "Ian Stuart" [ian.stuart3150th Anniversary celebrations...
18 JmieWilson@aol.com 29Re: Dredd sheds
19 "Finch, Mark" [Finchm@sk49RE: Oil cooler
20 Tom Peacey [tom.peacey@s17Safari Guards + V8 ECUs
21 JmieWilson@aol.com 18Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel
22 Tre McCroskey [tmccroske8Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
23 JmieWilson@aol.com 24Digest V normal list?


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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 07:04:44 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

fine layer of rust
> Can I just use them like that for diesel...or is it a bad idea?
> -Iwan Vosloo
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> -Iwan Vosloo
> ( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

>From what I've read on diesels that would not be a good idea as the
injectors may be exposed to unnecessary debris and could plug or ruin
the spray pattern.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 12:19:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

> I need some jerry cans & can get 2nd hand ones for a good price, but
> like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
> on the inside.
> Can I just use them like that for diesel...or is it a bad idea?
If you have a *great* fuel filter, yes. But *I* wouldn't. Diesel fuel 
systems are built to tolerances measured in .00001 of an inch. 
Obviously even very fine bits will cause trouble.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 10:26:05 -0500
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Ser I Universal Covers

Interested Ser I or general parts collectors:  I have two of these Ser I
Universal Joint Covers.  They are both like-new and still in the
original Rover packaging.  Someone please buy these from me so I can
fund my Ser III restoration.  The kit has two shield which clamp onto
the output side of the differentials and shield the u-joints.  There is
also a Metal shield that mounts somewhere else?  Maybe to cover the
spline joint?  The complete kit is Part No. 261829.  The package calls
it a "Grass Shield Kit", and was stamped with the date 13DEC61.  I'll
try to recreate the fitting instruction page, word for word:
 
 THE ROVER COMPANY LIMITED,                FITTING INSTRUCTION  PART No.
262232
 TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENT,
 SOLIHULL,
 WARWICKSHIRE,
 ENGLAND.
 
 SUBJECT    :     Fitting universal joint covers for propeller shafts.
 
 MODEL      :     1948-54 Land-Rover.
 
 Cover plates, to protect the propeller shaft joints from long grass
 etc., are supplied as a complete kit under Part No. 261829.
 
 To fit, proceed as follows :-
 
 1.  Protect the rear shaft joints by placing a cover plate (233071)
 under the rear axle differential housing, with the slots in the
 retaining strap located in the stiffening webs of the housing; retain
it
 with a strap (233068) over the housing and secure by means of two bolts
 (237141) and nuts (2823).
 
 2.  Protect the front shafts front joint in a similar manner.
 
 3.  Protect the front shaft rear joint by means of a plate (236007),
 which should be secured under the transfer box, between No. 3 and 4
 chassis cross-members (front bumper is No. 1 member) as follows :-
 
     Position the plate centrally beneath the front shaft rear joint,
 with the two right angle brackets ubutting the rear of No. 3 cross
 member.
 
 4.  Bend the plate to the contour of the cross members and drill three
 9/16" dia. holes in the front member, and three in the rear member
using
 the plate as a template, the holes should be the three outer-most at
 each end of the plate.
 
 5.  Secure the plate in position with six drive screws (77926)
disregard
 the two right angle brackets which are not used when fitting the plate
 from beneath the vehicle.
 
 6.  The rear shaft front bearing is effectively screened by the
 transmission brake unit.
 
  That's it.  If you know anything about this kit, let me know.  I would
be interested in selling or trading for parts.  Thanks for your help,
Bren Workman.
bworkman@alaska.net	'72 Ser III 88"  "Tilly"

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 20:22:35 -0500
From: lisad1@idt.net (Gregory Michael)
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery 5 Spd   With  10500  miles (fwd

>>                  I recently tried to adjust my idle knob,because

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 30 lines)]
>It's under warranty for 5 years and 50,000 miles.
>        Jim Allen
                                                  Sun Feb 16th 1997 6:25 pm

                    Dear Jim ,

                     Thank you for giving me info the other day.
If I got it ,I should send all inquires to above Land-Rover-Owner@playground.
sun.com,Also could you please send me list of code #s for the ECU etc,
for the discovery 8cyl 5 spd.so I am able to diagnose future problems with
engine faults etc... please send e mail and say hello soon,

                            Your friend on the East Coast NEW YORK CITY

                            Thankfully yours Gregory Lichtenson

                            PS tell me where you live and I will look in the
                            world atlas to see your place in the world. Anyway
                            the weather was pretty nice today very sunny and in
                             the mid 30s,tomorrow is Presidents day in the
                            United States. Take care,Oh I forgot to say Hi for
                            my 2yr old son Griffin whom by the way  is a Land,
                            rover enthusiast.Whats your Landrover of choice?

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 10:54:46 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

Iwan Vosloo wrote:
> I need some jerry cans & can get 2nd hand ones for a good price, but
> like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> -Iwan Vosloo
> ( '75 SIII 88" Diesel )

Hi Iwan,

Best to neutralise the rust on the outide first. I use Polycell Rust
Converter. It's water based and you just paint it on, it neutralises the
rust, seals the surface to prevent further rust and serves as its own
primer if you want to repaint the jerrys. Most good (NATO spec) jerrys
are enameled on the inside anyway.
   
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 09:03:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

Think of all the underground fuel tanks that you buy fuel from...

Also remember that there are 2 Diesel filters in-line on an Export Diesel
LR.

Go for them! At worst, pour a little phosphoric acid-based rust converter
in and give the can a good slosh about. Pour it out, let it dry, then rinse
with a bit of Diesel fuel.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.

                    ajr

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 14:30:37 -0500
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: A Rover Story

While scraping off crud and old Waxoyl from my chassis and under body,
I came across a rolled up piece of paper wedged between the bed
sstiffeners and the bed.  It turned out to be the original sales tag
with options listing.  It had been stuck there and exposed to the
elements for over 25 years.  I'll try to reproduce it below, hopefully
the server won't scatter it about.  Some sections are unreadable.  Could
I find these option numbers in the options catalog, or what?  Thanks for
your help and keep Rovering!
bworkman@alaska.net	'72 Ser III 88"  "Tilly"
????????				B2232 /02419
????????	PETROL LAND ROVER 4CYL
????????				      TRIM
????????		LIGHT GREEN	    BLACK
		
		   PET USA DE-TOX

??????		RUBBER PEDAL PADS
??????		TWO REAR SEATS
??????		WHL-CARRIER LCK  ILR-ON BONT.
??????		TOWING JAW ATTACHMENT BRACKET
??????		TOWING JAW
??????		TWO SUN VISORS
??????		HARD TOP-SLIDING WINDOWS
??????		TWO HEADLAMPS
??????		???????????? 710X15 TYRES
??????		??????????????????? ANCHORAGES
??????		DELUXE FRONT SEATS
??????		REAR FOLDING STEP
??????		???? AIR HEATER 4CYL LHD
??????		HAZARD WARNING LIGHT
??????		O.P. GAUGE
??????		TWIN SPEED WIPER AND WASHER
??????		COVER AUX. INSTRUMENTS
??????		LAMINATED WINDSCREEN
??????		AUX.SWITCH PANEL
??????		INTERIOR MIRROR/SNAP STEM
E.1694		ASHTRAY
E.1708		S/HARN.CENTRE SEAT/LAP STRAP
E.1789		LOCKING DELUXE SEATS LHD
E.1797		FRONTDOOR HINGE MIRROR &MTG BK
E.1798		SDR ANCH PT S/HARN 88 BY SID
??????		SAFETY HARNESS ANCHORAGE
		LAP ?????????? REG SEAT   (hand written)
		N ????????????            (hand written)
		M.P.H. ???????		  (hand written)
						020
???????		     25900676A            (????DATE????)
FOR UNITED STATES			  (????DATE????)

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From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 18:30:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Hello there...

chip 
no charge for spectators at Chateau Elan; in fact they are very welcome
and there are lots of nice british cars of all makes to enjoy from
lotus to morgan, AC to Rolls Royce..last year we had about 450
different british cars. feel free to come to the land rover club
meeting this thursday, feb 20 at Tony's, 1 block east of ga 400 at
holcomb bridge, old land rovers are getting hard to find.. it seems
every late model rover owner wants an old one too. I'm glad I got mine
so many years ago .. couldn't afford one now

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 07:48:02 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: wheel bearings

Pedro: Don't know if it helps, but there is an article on wheel bearings in
the latest Land Rover World (March 1997, page 128). If you can get around
the childish writing and too-cute layout, the article seems to answer your
questions. Do you have LRW in Portugal?

Ned Heite, P O Box 53
Camden, Delaware 19934
Icelandic wool catalogue:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland
See our draft articles on: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

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From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 11:46:27 -0500

Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za> writes :-

I need some jerry cans & can get 2nd hand ones for a good price, but
like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
on the inside.

Can I just use them like that for diesel...or is it a bad idea?

-  This is a BAD idea, diesel fuel systems need to be kept CLEAN, any kind
of dirt, water etc will just kill a diesel fuel; system. OK so you have
filters, they are not foolproof, clean them regularly anyway, 
 The precision parts of the injector pump and injectors can easily be
damaged by the ingress of foriegn matter. This kind of damage, if not
ctastrphic is very expensive to rectify. Diesel easily carries water anyway
and so rust is also a problem on systems which are not used very often.
 Regards
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 19:21:06 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Whoopie! (SIII whoopies)

Hi all!

I've finally got the Red Rover  (109 - which is green) on the road
again, passed it's inspection, and running better than ever.

For the first time in 14 years I'm driving a completely working
(touch-wood) 109 - rebuilt gearbox, new springs all round, motor is
shipshape, and not a spot of rust in sight, topside or underside. New
hardtop from Xmas, and all lucasisms completely exorcised.

I have never had it so good! Thanks to all those of you whose words of
encouragment have convinced me that pumping money into the old hulk will
pay off - it really is just like driving a new car - in fact better,
knowing that she's 22 years old and most of the work I have done myself.

This is proof that the series III's can be worth all they are cooked up
to be - took her for a long drive yesterday, and it was a pleasure. So
if ny of you are just at the beginning of a Series III rebuild, and
wonder whether a. you'll ever make it to the end or b. the investment
will be worth it - here's a word of encouragement for you all - keep on
rovering!

I suppose the 88" must have her turn in the workshop now - same routine
- springs all round, gearbox rebuild, and a few rust-jobs round the
footwells.

Or maybe I'll buy that RR which I have just unearthed?

Yours roverley,

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 19:28:53 -0500
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: New member, old question

Hi-

I'm new to the list. I have a complete set of pieces for a '62 IIa. In a few
months I hope to be out of pieces, and driving the IIa. Currently I'm
looking at a couple of differentials sitting on the garage floor with a
frame suspended above them. I've just finished having the frame repaired,
and I have painted the outside with POR-15 (great stuff). This brings me to
my question, which appears to have been answered just before I arrived- 

Does anyone have any thoughts about protecting the inside of the frame from
rust? I have the frame completely removed, so one option is to take it down
to the ziebart folks, but I'm a little worried about whether their process
is suitable for an enclosed area, and whether they might build up ridges
that would interrupt to flow of water out through the holes on the bottom. I
just caught the tail end of a reference to something called waxoyl. Can
someone briefly recap the discussion of frame protection for me, or tell me
how I might get into the archives to peruse it myself?

Thanks -NickF

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Fankhauser        |  Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us   |        http://co.wayne.in.us/wayneco

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 22:08:36 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: DANISH? SIII side door top sections

Can any of the Danish subscribers help me with some info?

Does anyone know the price of the top door section replacements, without
glass, but with replacement rails and trim pieces, for a series III?

Do I have to order the aluminium cladding pieces seperatly from the
steel frame, or are these supplied with the frame. Can they be ordered
seperatly, so that I can apply a liberal coating of rust paint / silicon
mastic between the alu and steel before assembly to avoid future
corrosion?

who is the cheapest / fastest delivery - Williams or Midtjydsk? Do
either of these suppliers have e-mail by any chance?

anyone got a pointer on this?

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 11:50:33 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: starter pinion spring

Howdy,

The starter pinion spring on elvis is broken.  I picked one up from BP
while in LA this last week but even though the parts manual shows a nut to
remove to get the spring off, my starter doesn't seem to want to cooperate.
No real nut, just a termination that's round and not going to be something
to grab onto. To make matters worse, I pulled the guts out of the case and
now am faced with trying to get the guts back in the case while springs are
holding the electrical brushes in the way.

Any words of wisdom from someone who has been here before?

thanks

John F Hess                       1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

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From: "Erik HupjTheta" <378219@sepa.tudelft.nl>
Date:          Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:24:29 MET
Subject:       Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

> I need some jerry cans & can get 2nd hand ones for a good price, but
> like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
> on the inside.
> Can I just use them like that for diesel...or is it a bad idea?

> If you have a *great* fuel filter, yes. But *I* wouldn't. Diesel fuel 
> systems are built to tolerances measured in .00001 of an inch. 
> Obviously even very fine bits will cause trouble.

A good way to get old jerry cans clean on the inside is to put some 
fuel (diesel or pertol, whatever you're using) in together with a few 
hands of small CLEAN pebbles. Next close they jerry can and shake it for a 
few minutes in such a way that whole inner surface of the jerry can 
is reached. Repeat until the fuel comes out clean.

Erik Hupje (378219@sepa.tudelft.nl)
Delft, The Netherlands
1980 109" V8 

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 20:36:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dual oil/Temp gague

At risk of mentioning a commercial source, this month's (Jan 97) Rover Log
from British Atlantic under Bargain Bin on page three advertises "(2864) Dual
unit twincheck gauge (water&oil) List $99.95 Sale $39,95"  Could this be what
you were needing?

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From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 08:29:43 +0000
Subject: 50th Anniversary celebrations...

(Cross-posted from the uk-lro list to the main lro list)

The Association of Rover Clubs are still open to suggestions for 
ideas for the 50th anniversiary celebrations next year.

They are unaware of any plans to meet in Amsterdam in April.

Allegedly, Land Rover are not happy about a few hundred people 
turning up at the factory (suprise, suprise)

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be quite happy to pass them on to 
my contact.

The best (only real..) suggestion I've got so far is a long weekend 
at Eastnor Castle...  (organising camping for several hundred would 
be no small task ;-)

Let me know is you have any ideas...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

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From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 04:39:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dredd sheds

In a message dated 16/02/97  04:48:59, you write:

<< Seriously; as has been discussed here numerous times, the only legal way
 to import vehicles less than 25 years old is as a kit of parts. See the
 LR FAQ pages for an excellent discussion by Bill. Limited exceptions
 exist BUT THEY DON'T APPLY TO YOU (unless you are an established motor
 vehicle manufactuer, or fit some other restrictive criteria and can post
 a large bond, or are the Smithsonian Institution).
  >>

All right I admit to being a foreigner, but what if the vehicle is not for
road use?  Could it get in and then over a period of time become for road
use?  Do tractors and other purely agricultural vehicles get subjected to the
same rules?  What about purely collector items?  What is parts?  i.e. how far
apart do you have to take it and do the separate parts have to travel
separately?  If you get caught smuggling can you just claim it a racist set
up? (I've heard you can get away with murder like that in the US).

All this and more doesn't really deserve an answer.

Regards

Jamie

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From: "Finch, Mark" <Finchm@sky2.bskyb.com>
Subject: RE: Oil cooler
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 04:44:00 PST

Hi Erik

     I have an Ex dutch military land rover, it has an oil cooler fitted, as 
I do not know how the oil is pumped around a V8 the only thing I can suggest 
is try and find a 101, as they had V8's and oil coolers.

     The best place in holland, that does have 101's is Van Dam in Zeist, 
the number is 03069 13699, if you needed any more help e-mail me on 
finchm@sky2.bskyb.com

     The basic oil cooler set up is a feed off the oil pump to the top of 
the cooler then it returns back to the sump.
 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: Oil cooler
Date: 13 February 1997 12:06

Hi everybody,

In may I'll be taking a 1980 109" V8 to Africa. We want to install an
oil cooler, but these things our quite expensive when bought new.
What we are thinking of is buying a used oil cooler from Dutch
ex-militairy LR's. Most of these are diesel and some are petrol (4
and 6 cyl.) What we want to know if there is any reason why these
won't do. Another problem is where to place in inlet and outlet of the oil
cooler system, the diameters of the hoses and such.

I can't find any technical details about oil coolers so I hope someone can
help.

By the way thanks to everybody who gave us tips on our brake
problems. After a few more bleeding sessions and a adjustment of the
brake shoes everything is working perfectly. I never imagined that
the adjusment of the (completely new) brakes shoes is such a delicate job ?!
Fastening the brake adjusters a bit too much or too less immediately
lead to inferior braking.

Hope anyone has some good tips on the oil cooler,

Erik Hupje (378219@sepa.tudelft.nl)
Delft, The Netherlands
1980 109" 3.5L V8 hardtop

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Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 09:16:02 GMT
From: Tom Peacey <tom.peacey@services.britgas.co.uk>
Subject: Safari Guards + V8 ECUs

Hello,

I read the bit about those safari guards.  Have you got a post or
email address for them??

For the person who wanted V8 ECU code numbers - look at
http://bauxite.apricot.co.uk/hosts/rrr/classic/faq/efi_problems.html

Cheers,

Tom.
'95 Discovery V8 

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From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 04:39:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Jerry can rust & Diesel

In a message dated 16/02/97  06:59:56, you write:

<< like many old jerry cans these seem to have a thin, fine layer of rust
 on the inside.
  >>

My jerry cans have a red oxide type coating on the inside, are you sure its
rust?

Regards

Jamie

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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 21:40:48 -0500
From: Tre McCroskey <tmccroskey@CENTER.COLGATE.EDU>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Does anyone know where to get the  "Defender"  or "Land Rover"  big decals
that are on the inside windshields (top) of Camel Trophy D110's??     
please let me know    -tre

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From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 04:39:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Digest V normal list?

In a message dated 16/02/97  03:10:56, you write:

<< and am really enjoying it. However, do we get EVERYTHING on the digest? 
 I know the theory behind it, I'm just wondering if anything is missed 
 out! 
  >>

Maybe if everyone sent a list of everyting had posted then you could check
those lists against what you have....  but then how would you know if you
received all the lists?  :-)  OK I'll try and be serious (Itried it before
and everyone gave me shit so now I give up) theoretically you get everything,
the list server should at regular intervals archive the material it has and
send you a packet.  BUT the list server is a computer and computer (of
whatever make) are dumb and can make mistakes.  So yes and then maybe no.

Regards

Jamie

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