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1 Adrian Redmond [channel639Re: Towing Expectations
2 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit29springz
3 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies35RE: springz
4 WJMcD@aol.com 39"The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
5 stan@rgo.co.za (Stan) 14Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
6 stan@rgo.co.za (Stan) 16Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
7 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu16Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
8 Rory [u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk22Re: That's it ! the aprons are off.
9 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies32RE: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
10 Mike Gaines [106220.123422water in footwells
11 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo28[not specified]
12 [smith007@ix.netcom.com>10[not specified]
13 "Brian Hanson/EW/BNL" [B12Re: Electronic rust gadget
14 NADdMD@aol.com 17Re: A Young Fart
15 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu16Re: Blimey
16 stan@rgo.co.za (Stan) 15Re: Blimey
17 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies19RE: Blimey
18 twakeman@scruznet.com (T20RE: how to repair a gas tank?
19 twakeman@scruznet.com (T26Re: Cracked In the Head
20 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo20Re: springz
21 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo4[not specified]
22 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo11Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?
23 Gregspitz@aol.com 12110 Heater Fan
24 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea17Fitting a V8
25 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M14Re: Blimey
26 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob22Re[2]: how to repair a gas tank?
27 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies17RE: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?
28 Andy Woodward [azw@aber.15Lake Footwell
29 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr31Re: That's it ! the aprons are off.
30 "John J. Tackley" [jtack115ammeter mtg.
31 Sanna@aol.com 17Re: Cracked In the Head
32 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M19Re: Towing Expectations
33 g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)19Re: Cracked In the Head
34 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob15Re: Lake Footwell
35 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob26Re[2]: springz
36 "Daniel S. Hayes" [dsh1217Seat
37 Nathaniel Council [counc13Re: Blimey
38 DONOHUEPE@aol.com 19Electronic rust gadget
39 Solihull@aol.com 21Re: Electronic rust gadget
40 Solihull@aol.com 22Re: RE: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
41 Adrian Redmond [channel634Re: Blimey
42 Adrian Redmond [channel643SIII underneath - Paint black red first
43 JmieWilson@aol.com 19Re: Blimey
44 JmieWilson@aol.com 15Sighting
45 wleacock@pipeline.com 26[not specified]
46 Jeffrey Alan Berry [jabe19On the subject of Gas Tanks
47 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit14Re: Exploding Distributor
48 Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt18Heaters
49 David Place [dplace@mb.s13Re: Cracked In the Head
50 David Place [dplace@mb.s17Re:
51 David Place [dplace@mb.s27Cracked block
52 blainh@accent.net (Blain24Gas Tank Repairs
53 David Cockey [dcockey@ti19Re: Cracked In the Head (Choke Cable - Expensive)
54 RykRover@aol.com 18Re: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?
55 wleacock@pipeline.com 18Harmonic balancer(was:We Survived!!)
56 Adrian Redmond [channel646Re: Heaters
57 jouster@redm.primextech.19Re: SIIA Harmonic balancers??
58 twakeman@scruznet.com (T17Re: Cracked In the Head
59 ericz@cloud9.net 17RE: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?
60 Luc Rokegem [defender@be26Re: 110 Heater Fan
61 PWright@aol.com 7Stop sending me mail!!!
62 PWright@aol.com 7Re: Paint Removal from galvanized Bits
63 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.19www.bsroa.com
64 PWright@aol.com 7Stop email!!!!!!
65 NADdMD@aol.com 14Trivia question.
66 PWright@aol.com 7Re: Paint Stripping Galvanized Surfaces
67 Nathaniel Council [counc14Re: Stop sending me mail!!!
68 PWright@aol.com 7Re: SIII Gearbox, clutch, transmission brake
69 Franz Parzefall [franz@m18Re: Stop sending me mail!!!
70 PWright@aol.com 7Re: unsubscribe
71 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh38RE: On the subject of Gas Tanks
72 Richard Jackson [RICHARD11Re: Blimey
73 "P Burgers" [PBURGERS@CP29 Re: ammeter mtg.
74 "Johnny Storm 21Re: Blimey


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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 12:58:36 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Towing Expectations

Jon Haskell wrote:
> purchase for a restoration project. One of the lingering questions, is
> what kind of towing expectations can we expect from the 2.25 gas or
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Jon Haskell
> Indianapolis
Go for the 2.25 diesel - it's not the fastest truck on the road, but
there is a difference between pulling a caravan on the motorway and
pulling trailers around the farm - I live on a fam and have had a 88 and
a 109 for 14 years, both of which have been great workhorses for farm
work. The 88 is a great runabout, and as a pickup is fine for small
loads like feedstuff and tools, even sheep! The 109 is better for larger
loads, and can easily carry 60 bales of hay in pick-up configuration.

You won't get high speed under heavy towing, but it will pull what you
want where you want - and the low ratio is indispensible.

Good luck
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 07:41:37 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: springz

Went to the local spring shop with my SW IIA. Fellow looked underneath and
pronounced my springs "rotten" and recommended replacement. He called his
supplier and got a parts-only (i.e. springs-only) price of nearly $1200.
After I picked myself up off the floor, I checked the prices in "our"
sources.

Novers Rorth lists the springs alone for about half the shop's quote.
Ritish Balantic advertises a complete spring kit for just under $600.

Am I missing something? The fellow at the spring shop allowed as how things
are more expensive when you have an expensive nameplate on your car. Are
the springs from Novers Rorth or Ritish Balantic inferior to the ones that
cost twice as much?

How much should I pay for a full set of springs with attendant hardware and
bushes?

(Names of suppliers are cleverly disguised to avoid the stigma of blatant
commercialism.)

Ned Heite
Camden, Delaware 19934
Icelandic wool catalogue:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland
See our draft articles on: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: springz
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 13:04:00 PST

Buy a copy of Land Rover Owner International magazine and check out some of 
the spring prices in there. Even $600 looks way too high. $300 + shipping 
from the UK sounds more realistic.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT, looking forward to March issue of LROI on 
Friday
 ----------

Went to the local spring shop with my SW IIA. Fellow looked underneath and
pronounced my springs "rotten" and recommended replacement. He called his
supplier and got a parts-only (i.e. springs-only) price of nearly $1200.
After I picked myself up off the floor, I checked the prices in "our"
sources.

Novers Rorth lists the springs alone for about half the shop's quote.
Ritish Balantic advertises a complete spring kit for just under $600.

Am I missing something? The fellow at the spring shop allowed as how things
are more expensive when you have an expensive nameplate on your car. Are
the springs from Novers Rorth or Ritish Balantic inferior to the ones that
cost twice as much?

How much should I pay for a full set of springs with attendant hardware and
bushes?

(Names of suppliers are cleverly disguised to avoid the stigma of blatant
commercialism.)

Ned Heite

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From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 08:23:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"

Okay Folks! Decision time.

2.25, 2.5, 2.6, 3.0, 3.5, 6.2, 250... The List goes on and on!

Survey Says!

Replace the 2.6 with a de-stroked 3.0. Slips right in. No fuss. No muss. 

Pros							Cons

Easy Installation				Dependability?
I've plenty of Spares			It's not a V8
More Power than my 2.6		It's not a V8
More power than a diseil		It's not a V8
I can get one cheap I think		It's not a V8

Sigmund! I've found something akin to penis envy! (Found mostly in Yanks)

Okay. So somebody. Anybody. Talk me out of the 3.0 six. I'll do it! I'm not
joking!

Seriously. If there is anyone in this church (where we worship aluminum
boxes), that knows of any reason why this 1969 109 Safari- "Beauty" and a
Rover 3.0 Six- "Beast", should not be joined in unholy matrimony...speak now
or forever hold your piece.

I'll give you three issues to discuss your answers amongst yourselves.

Go!

Cheers and Many Thanks to all who responded to this friend in need!

Bill McDonald

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 15:27:44 +0200
From: stan@rgo.co.za (Stan)
Subject: Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"

WJMcD@aol.com wrote:
> Okay Folks! Decision time.
> 2.25, 2.5, 2.6, 3.0, 3.5, 6.2, 250... The List goes on and on!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
> Go!
> Cheers and Many Thanks to all who responded to this friend in need!
> Bill McDonald

Only one reason I can think of - it's not a V8

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 15:33:39 +0200
From: stan@rgo.co.za (Stan)
Subject: Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"

WJMcD@aol.com wrote:
> Seriously. If there is anyone in this church (where we worship aluminum
> boxes), that knows of any reason why this 1969 109 Safari- "Beauty" and a
> Rover 3.0 Six- "Beast", should not be joined in unholy matrimony...speak now
> or forever hold your piece.

Only one I can think of - it's not a V8

Good luck

Stan

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 15:43:37 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"

Stan wrote:
> WJMcD@aol.com wrote:
> > Seriously. If there is anyone in this church (where we worship aluminum
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Good luck
> Stan

On the other hand, it doesn't eat camshafts either.

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

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From: Rory <u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: That's it ! the aprons are off.
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 13:55:29 +0000 (GMT)

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:32:10 -0400 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>      aj"Some of us LIKE to cook...but can it be done on the manifold?"r
> In response to the above, last summer, I had just got some pasta to boilling point on a gas stove, 
on a campsite near Skipton when the stove did that anoying thing of running out of gas. Having 
assured my other half that there would be enough gas for the evening, I was now in the shush. No 
problem, I thought I'll just finish boilling it on the manifold. Up went the bonnet, and on went the 
engine. After hallf an hour the temperature of the pasta stablised at something like just too cold 
to be enjoyable. I think it may be possible to have achieved this feat, but only if the engine was 
working (very hard) at the time or the altitude had been a lot greater where water boils at a lower 
temperature. Since I don't fancy trying to balance a pan of pasta on the mainfold of a SIII whilst 
driving, I would recomend Potatoes wrapped in foil and wired to the manifold for a couple of hours 
driving as a worthwhile experiment.

Frosty

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 13:47:00 PST

What are the torque characteristics of the 3.0 compared to the 2.6 lump? As 
the 3.0 was modified for a car it may not have the low end torque you'd want 
for an off roader.

The GMC 6.5 Turbo V8 diesel would be nice, but a lot of work to fit.

Just playing devil's advocate,

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------

Okay. So somebody. Anybody. Talk me out of the 3.0 six. I'll do it! I'm not
joking!

Seriously. If there is anyone in this church (where we worship aluminum
boxes), that knows of any reason why this 1969 109 Safari- "Beauty" and a
Rover 3.0 Six- "Beast", should not be joined in unholy matrimony...speak now
or forever hold your piece.

I'll give you three issues to discuss your answers amongst yourselves.

Go!

Cheers and Many Thanks to all who responded to this friend in need!

Bill McDonald

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 08:49:59 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: water in footwells

Rory asked if i frequently get water in footwells, no, I was pointing out
that internal frost might be the source of this. only other time is when
you get a sunny weekend forecast, strip off the roof then it pisses down as
soon as you're three miles from home. ( However at max LR speed you can put
up a brolly.)
  On subject of keeping warm, I  wear an Irvin jacket (WWll pattern
sheepskin-lined leather flying jacket which is warm but prevents all but
wrist movement. 
Also, don't waste your beer tokens on a 28 quid (c50bucks) radiator
muff.get one of those  v.thick cardboard cartons used to ship fresh fruit,
cut to fit and cover in a plastic garbage bag. It works fine and costs
equivalent of  2cc beer.
rather than  a few hangover's worth.

cheers
Mike Gaines, Slll para-chuckable (Getting fed up tryin to spell
Lightweight)

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Subject: Wiper Motor--WANTED
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 97 07:53:53 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Does anyone have a Lucas wiper motor (the single speed type thats on the 
early IIa's) that they would part with for a decent price?  Yesterday, I 
was rebuilding my wiper motors (going along the plans layed out in the 
Land Rover FAQ's archive) and was able to get one back to great running 
condition, but the other is beyond repair.

Rover's North sells some used ones at about $295 (a little steep for me). 
 It wouldn't have to be great as I could do some re-greasing and cleaning 
on it.  Just not rusted.

Let me know.

Thanks

Keith

Keith W. Cooper
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*                  "Arkansas Land Rover Association"                    *
*                        1965 Diesel SIIA 88"                           *
*                     '96 Land Rover Discovery SE                       *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Blimey
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 97 09:06:51 -0000
From: <smith007@ix.netcom.com>

>Blimey
And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?

Phil Smith
Tampa, FL.
69 TR6

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 09:54:00 est
From: "Brian Hanson/EW/BNL" <Brian_Hanson/EW/BNL_at_BLNOTESMAIL@blwn0009.bausch.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic rust gadget

> Ivan wants to know if and how the electronic corrosion prevention item he
> saw advertised >would work.
  Didn't one of the major manufacturers of these just recently get sued for
  false advertising claims here in the US?  If I remember correctly, the
  court decided that these devices do not really prevent corrosion and in
  some cases it actually promotes it.
  

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 09:09:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: A Young Fart

In a message dated 97-02-04 03:12:52 EST, you write:

<< Incidentally, I am presently 444 times as old as my D90SW. That's a nice
 number. Fellow mathematicians, when told that I am a prime number of years
 old (and old enough to vote), can deduce how old my Defender is.
  >>

One month, nice! (is it a 97?)

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 16:14:33 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Blimey

smith007@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >Blimey
> And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Tampa, FL.
> 69 TR6

Bloody Limey (?)

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 16:18:02 +0200
From: stan@rgo.co.za (Stan)
Subject: Re: Blimey

smith007@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >Blimey
> And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Tampa, FL.
> 69 TR6

Blimey is a British term that means Oh! my gosh

Stan

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Blimey
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 14:21:00 PST

What does HECK mean? :-)

Answer that and you have your answer.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------

>Blimey
And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?

Phil Smith
Tampa, FL.
69 TR6

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 06:26:55 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: RE: how to repair a gas tank?

At 12:06 AM 2/4/97 -0500, Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College wrote:

>I had a local welder friend build a replacement for my 88".  It
;cost me $150, is an exact replica of the original, is made of twice
>as thick metal as the original (plus and 1/8" extra plating on the
;bottom) and if completely lined so that it will never rot again.
>I guess what I am saying is you might check with your local welder
;shops...Good luck!!!!
;
So I purchased new high quality after market petrol tanks for less than
half the price you paid to have one made.  There are alternatives.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 06:35:06 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head

At  2:35 AM 2/4/97 -0500, Sanna@aol.com wrote:

>Lulubelle's out on the west coast (Oregon) down with a cracked head.  I've
>got all the head rebuild parts, but without a head to put them on (the
;diagnosis came in from the machine shop today).  She's a IIa.
;
>Does anyone out there  have a spare head they'd like to sell?  Rebuildable is
;fine, rebuilt is better.  Rovers North has rebuildables, but they're a coast
>away.
;
uncracked used heads seem to be very hard to find.  Its got to be up there
with unobtainable early choke cables.

I recently talked with British Pacific.  They have a complete new 8:1 head
set up for unleaded.  Just take it out of the box and bolt it on your
engine.  All new valves, springs & retainers.  And if you have a 7:1 head
it comes with a small HP boost.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 07:55:40 -0400
Subject: Re: springz

Re: Local shop:

He should have at least taken you out to dinner before trying to screw you
like that....

The local shop is taking advantage of you - don't deal with this guy.

Springs are not hard to do at all - but do yourself a favor and allow for
new U-bolts and shackles.

Go with either RN (or NR in your scenario) or the like - I'm not thrilled
with AB's quality.

                    aj"Bloody thieves they are....."r

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 09:20:12 -0600

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 10:31:49 -0400
Subject: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?

I am going through the tortures of Hell trying to rent/borrow/obtain a
towbar or a 2-wheel tow dolly
to haul my latest kill home. Any help will be sincerely appreciated.

                         Al Richer

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From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 11:04:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 110 Heater Fan

the heater fan on my 93 NAS 110 keeps blowing the 30 amp fuse under the hood
and finally will not work at all...I suspect a short and the dealer will fix
it in a week..however if it is some kind of easy way to find the problem I
would like to do it??Any ideas////???
thanks 
Greg

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Fitting a V8
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 11:02:00 -0500

Installing a V8 need not automatically consign your half shafts to the
scrap bin. Conservatism in the application of power is one solution.
Another is to build the egine so it doesn't produce untoward amounts of
torque. Camshaft suppliers who have  wealth of knowledge on producing
power also know how to tame the beast. An "RV" cam or similar mild grind
along with suitable electronic control or carburation can provide an
engine with a broad torque characteristic eminently suitable to use in
an off road vehicle. What you need is torque from 300 rpm up to 4500,
cruise at 4000 with low specific fuel consumption, and long life. The
ability to accelerate from 0 to 60mph in less than 8 seconds should be a
low priority.

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 16:18:51 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Blimey

>>Blimey
>And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?

Quite literally,a distortion of "God blind me".Similarly the term "bloody"
as in bloody hell is a distortion of "By Our Lady".Elizabethen,if not
earlier.An expression of astonishment.Like "Strewth".
English lesson over,wake up at the back there!!!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 11:07:50 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: how to repair a gas tank?

At 12:06 AM 2/4/97 -0500, Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College wrote:

>I had a local welder friend build a replacement for my 88".  It 
;cost me $150, is an exact replica of the original, is made of twice 
>as thick metal as the original (plus and 1/8" extra plating on the 
;bottom) and if completely lined so that it will never rot again.
>I guess what I am saying is you might check with your local welder 
;shops...Good luck!!!!
;
So I purchased new high quality after market petrol tanks for less than 
half the price you paid to have one made.  There are alternatives.

where you find these??

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 16:29:00 PST

I though everyone in the States used Zippy Tow :-)

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT (safely out of reach of Zipkin's wrath here in 
the UK, I HOPE)
 ----------

I am going through the tortures of Hell trying to rent/borrow/obtain a
towbar or a 2-wheel tow dolly
to haul my latest kill home. Any help will be sincerely appreciated.

                         Al Richer

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From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:31:39 +0000
Subject: Lake Footwell 

>  Different subject, water in footwells. this morning there was a
>particularly hrad frost and I had ice on inside of windscreen ( its a
>ragtop). Perhaps this is a source of the footwell puddles but if it
>melts before you see it, you are left looking for a major leak when
>its actually frozen condensation? BTW, anybody had probs with D90Tdi

I just undid the screws holdin the florplates down, inserted a small 
bit of wood and screwed em back down. This leaves a little gap so 
they drain.......

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 08:54:37 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: That's it ! the aprons are off.

At 08:11 PM 2/3/97 +0200, you wrote:
>Right Sinasohn, you've asked for it now.

Sure, go ahead, do it the hard way.  

Okay, for the benefit of my LR brethren everywhere, my top secret Tiramisu
recipe:

Zip down the street to Paul's Italian Restaurant*, order dinner (complete
meal) and when they ask what you want for dessert say "Tiramisu".  8^)

*On Ocean Avenue, just east of 19th Avenue/Hwy 1 in San Francisco.  (Just
North of SF State/Stonestown, Just south of Stern Grove.  See:
<http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/restrant.htm> and
<http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/attractn.htm>)

>Paul"Culinary blackmailer"W

Would that make it black e-mail?

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 11:59:44 -500
Subject: ammeter mtg.

Dirk asked about ammeters.....funny he should ask....

<<<<Warning, this is long but might tickle yer innards...>>>>

Here's what NOT to do (don't ask me how I know, or when I learned 
what not to do, this weekend )

Use at least the same gauge of wire presently going to the alternator, nothing 
smaller.  If a short occurs, you WILL fry, as in 'lite up like a Roman 
Candle' that smaller wire.  I was just putting the dash panels back 
together when I must have touched a ground to one of the ammeter 
terminals, melting insulation and letting out the smoke.  Quite a sight 
to see actually,  in the twilight hours, your just installed wiring, glowing 
RED HOT as Lucas' Troops race thru the wire to ground, burning and 
melting anything they come into contact with.  And I just know that fire 
extinguisher is in the back of the truck somewhere....talk about 
PANIC.  I thought the truck was a gonner, but luckily I still had the 
positive battery terminal loose enough to just pull off, thereby 
stopping Lucas' troops in their tracks.  But it took me a couple of 
seconds to decide whether to reach for the extinguisher or disconnect the 
battery or run like hell or cuss and swear.  Thank heaven I decided 
to try for the battery first.  And I guess it didn't hurt that I had 
used only 12 gauge wire, a big enough pipe for Lucas and his troops.
Luckily I got the battery disconnected before doing any 
serious damage, like burning the truck to the ground, and I also came
to my senses regarding running a straight shot from the battery
without short protection, DOH!

VERY IMPORTANT.  DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT run these new wires 
to the ammeter and back to the battery without some kind of short 
protection.     ( Isn't it curious how there's always time to do a 
job over, but never enough time to do it right the first time ?)

The second time I did the installation I installed 2 (TWO) 
fuseable links, one at the battery connection and one at the alternator 
connection point. These were 14 gauge Ford links obtained from NAPA, 
the largest they had in stock.  I didn't use fuses, as I thought they 
might affect the ammeter readings.  Anyway, the fuseable links will 
just melt away, opening the circuit before any of Lucas' troops can 
make their way through to the dash area again.

Remember that the current from the alternator output and the battery 
are coming to that ammeter gauge in your dash.  Some serious kind of 
potential for a lot of juice to spill into the dash, if you will 
excuse the pun.  And 'Smoke Letting' contrary to popular opinion, is 
not a cure for Lucas disease.

So, if you're still reading and interested, here are the details of what I did.  
(Incidentally, I spent more on the wire, connectors and wire mold than on the 
gauge itself, which came from WalMart for a mere 7 bucks.  Nope, not a purist...)

First, disconnect battery positive cable.  Safety first.  Remove 
those rings, watches and metal bracelets, earings, noserings, nipple 
rings, etc. etc.

Remove alternator output wire(s),  (I had 2, spliced together by the PO)
ring terminal on the starter solenoid.  I used 10 gauge wire, as this matched the 
alternator wires in size.  I pulled a loop of 10 gauge into the dash, 
the loop is easier to 'pull', then simply cut it to make 2 wires.
Connect the '+' side of the ammeter to the battery side of the new 
wiring.  The '-' side of the ammeter is connected to the alternator 
output wire(s) you disconnected from the solenoid (see above).
Don't cut off the ring terminal on the alternator ouput wires.  Since 
the fuseable link has a similarly sized ring terminal, simply use a 
small nut and bolt, with a star washer between the ring terminals for 
good electrical contact.  Use loctite or nylock nut, and tape off, 
tie off and insulate very well.  I may be anal, but I didn't want any 
sparks to the fuel pump, or a red hot wire melting thru my fuel line.
Splice the f.link to the length of 10 gauge going to the negative side of 
the ammeter.  This will allow you to reconnect wiring as it was prior 
to installing the ammeter, quite easily.  (A good defense against Lucas 
troops, as Murphy told me.)

To the ammeter end of this wire, crimp or solder a small ring terminal 
appropriately sized to the terminals on the ammeter.  Connect securely 
and don't forget to run the wires thru the hole in the dash first, or you will 
do it again.
Do the other 10 gauge wire identically, small ring terminal on the 
ammeter end, fuseable link with large ring terminal on the battery end 
(actuall, you will attach this to the starter solenoid battery terminal).  
I recommend you tape off the gauge and insulate the two wires/terminals 
with great paranoia, as long as you can still get in thru the hole in the dash.  
You don't want any grounds coming in contact with these 10 gauge wires 
or the ammeter terminals.  I used wire mold insulation to keep these two 
10 gauge wires as seperate from the main harness as possible, just as an 
anal precaution, having experienced the fireworks the previous evening.  
Also insure that the bracket holding the gauge in the dash has the 
two rubber washers/grommets that insulate it from the terminals.  And 
only tighten the mounting nuts finger tight.

Incidently, now is a great time to put in a 'real' lighter socket.  
Connect the positive lead of the socket to the positive ammeter 
terminal.  I mounted the socket to the right side center dash panel, 
almost opposite the flasher switch, which is on the left side panel.
Now I can monitor alternator output, AND stick a map light, air 
compressor, fan or other 12v device into the lighter socket and 
dispense with my homemade 'inspection socket' adapter.

Remember LROs, this applies only to SIIIs.  Older Series trucks 
have a seperate voltage regulator, which makes the ammeter 
connection points different than on the SIIIs.

And I offer as proof of a professional installation, my III was 
driven to work this AM without a hint of smoke.  Oh yeah, and the 
battery was charging too................
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 12:04:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head

>I recently talked with British Pacific.  They have a complete new 8:1 head
>set up for unleaded.  Just take it out of the box and bolt it on your
>engine.

Does anyone have B-P's number?

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:04:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Towing Expectations

  What towing weight and gross axle weight is the II and III
>series rated. Something tells me that the chassis/axle rating will exceed
>the "oompfa" of the engines.
I beleive 2.5 tons(imp) for both engines.However,I have known one bloke
tow a five ton boat with an 88",and another haul an 18 ton traction
engine out of its earth floored shed(wherein it had sunk,somewhat over
the winter).I've regularly towed two horses in a trailer with my
2.25 diesel 88",*before* the engine rebuild,and no,that wasnt the
reason for the rebiuld.
So I dont think you need worry about either engine.After all,the
things *were* built as a farm vehicle in the first place.
Enjoy yourself!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:12:04 GMT

On Tue, 4 Feb 1997 12:04:04 -0500 (EST), you wrote:

>Does anyone have B-P's number?

1-800-554-4133

BRITPAC@aol.com

http://www.britishpacific.com

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 11:48:41 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Lake Footwell 

>I just undid the screws holdin the florplates down, inserted a small 
>bit of wood and screwed em back down. This leaves a little gap so 
>they drain.......

A washer would do nicely too. Ive done this where the splash gaurd bolts to 
the footwell, lets the mud and p*ss drain out, but its a small enough hole 
to keep in the thick juices from my manifold cookery...

Cheers
DaveB

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 11:46:11 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: springz

>>Re: Local shop:
>>He should have at least taken you out to dinner before trying to screw you 
>>like that....
>>The local shop is taking advantage of you - don't deal with this guy.

Not necessarily. I've asked around about this before. American shops will 
not have a similar spring rreadily available, so it'll be a custom job. 
Anout $300 a piece...

>>Springs are not hard to do at all - but do yourself a favor and allow 
for new U-bolts and shackles.

>>Go with either RN (or NR in your scenario) or the like - I'm not thrilled 
with AB's quality.

I agree with both of the above. I have what appear to be AB springs on mine. 
They were 3 years secondhand when I got em, and were in relatively good shape. 
Within the first 20 miles of driving the Green Car looks like its its stooping 
to take a drink of water.
Cheers
Dave

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 12:07:52 -0600 (CST)
From: "Daniel S. Hayes" <dsh12@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Seat

Does anyone have (or know where I can find) an old rear, sideways mounted,
bench landrover seat they want to get ride of.  I am looking for one for my
J#$p.  Doesn't have to be in great shape.  Its an old work horse J*&p.

Daniel S. Hayes
American Management Systems (AMS)
12601 Fair Lakes Circle
Fairfax, VA  22033
703-227-5615 w
800-242-8143 x5615 (work voice mail)
703-267-8301 fax (Attn: Daniel S. Hayes)
mailto:dsh12@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 12:16:37 -0600
From: Nathaniel Council <council@gcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Blimey

smith007@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >Blimey
> And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Tampa, FL.
> 69 TR6

I believe it is slang for your mom. letme know if I am wrong:)

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 13:23:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Electronic rust gadget

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 Peter Hirsch wrote about a
"catholic corrosion protection device".

Does the pope know about this?

Would this be a zinc Saint Christopher medal?  Where should it be mounted?
On the grill by the car club badge or on the dash next to the rally badges?

Imprimatur
Nihil obstat

Paul Donohue
1965 LR Deadmobile (waiting for a new exhaust manifold)

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 13:53:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Electronic rust gadget

>>Would this be a zinc Saint Christopher medal?  Where should it be mounted?
>>On the grill by the car club badge or on the dash next to the rally badges?

>>Imprimatur
>>Nihil obstat
Yes, Paul, but can you play dominoes better than us?!?

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
Parochial School Veteran
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 14:36:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: RE: "The Joy of Six!" or "Gee! I coulda' had a V8"

Yeah, yeah, its not a vee-ate. So, what's the point? As for torque, the
straight motor should have more of that than a vee motor of the same (or
close) displacement. That's why fedex uses so many of the 300cid sixes in
their vans instead of the 302 v8. If I had my P5 book back, which I loaned a
year ago (Donald?!?) I could look up the numbers.
Besides, I *like* the burble of a well tuned F Head mill at idle.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
F Head Rover mill: the AK47 of powerplants; it makes a distinctive sound when
fired (up)
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 21:07:34 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Blimey

smith007@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >Blimey
> And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Tampa, FL.
> 69 TR6
BLIMEY - Br. english slang, now in common usage a a term of exclamation,
as in "Blimey, you should see the state of that J**p" - originally a
curse of disbelief, as if one doesn't believe one's eyes, derived from
the expression "May God strike me blind.... (if my eyes deceive me?) -
the nature of daring one's maker to tamper with the bestowed 20/20 is
somewhat frowned upon in well spoken circles - but still the term
remains in common use.
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 21:18:07 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: SIII underneath - Paint black red first

Just taken a break for fresh air whilst painting my 109, and thought
that this small tip may be of interest to others.

As I paint the underside of my rovers rather than undersealing, it is a
job which needs redoing every year or so - whenever the gearbox is out,
or the back cabin box is lifted off.

There is usually little visible rust, other than in the places where my
monthly high pressure wash has chewed at last summers paint job, so
painting black paint onto mostly black metal is difficult whilst lying
on your back in a dark workshop, vision misted further by spray mist.

I usually give it a coat of red rust paint first - this has tweo
advantages - firstly the obvious, curing rust, but also that it is
possible to see where you have painted - and likewise, when the new
black coat goes on, you are spraying over red - a simple way to avoid
"holy days" as the danes call them (the bits you miss when painting).

well that's enough fresh air - back to Xylene-happy-hour (always use a
charcoal-filter mask, and never spray for more than 20 minutes without a
similar break)

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 15:39:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Blimey

In a message dated 04/02/97  14:06:37, you write:

<< >Blimey
 And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?
  >>

Blimey is an abreviation of Go'r blimey which is a London gutteral version of
"God blind me".  A sort god punish me if I'm not telling the truth sort of
remark.

Regards

Jamie

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From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 15:56:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Sighting

Just came back from PCWorld with a game "for my son" called Virtual Safari.
 You have to find all the books and keys and things then go off on safari in
a Land Rover, well a computer graphics type Land Rover.  Definately not the
thing for the deviants on acid amongst, you but the of you might find it a
grin.  For more information try http:\\www.anglia.co.uk\safari.

Regards

Jamie

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From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 16:20:28 -0500

I am very interested in the response of this request.   I have in my
backyard a dear old Triumph Spit, which I first owned many years ago. 
It has a similar block exit in a noncritical area.  I would love to 
reuse this engine.  OK, I know this is sentimental, but I had a lot 
of great miles with that block.  It got me home many a late night.
Mark

  There is a well established method for repairing split / cracked castings,
unfortunately  years of working with aluminum have fogged the brain and I
can't remember the name. It consists of drilling two tapered holes each side
of the crack, machining a groove between them, then inserting a  special
wedge shaped pice which pulls the material together across the crack.
depending on the length of the crack a number of these " stitches " can be
fitted. It is a technique regularly practised by specailist companies for
salvaging expensive castings. When I lived in West Yorkshire there was a
local company that did it, it was part of a bigger group. they also did
things like metal spraying etc to reclaim worn shafts etc.

 Regards  Bill Leacock  limey in exile
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 15:14:36 -0400
From: Jeffrey Alan Berry <jaberry@sprintmail.com>
Subject: On the subject of Gas Tanks
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

For those who are interested, I have published at:

http://websites.i2020.net/~jaberry/Jeffs.htm

An article complete with pictures on how I installed a Series tank under
the passenger seat of my 94 D90.  Took a bit of work but it works
great.  Let me know what you think. --
***Jeff and Kelly Berry, Niceville, FL
**----jaberry@sprintmail.com
'  94 D90 with a some Series parts.

------------69AA73567F064
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:21:41 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Re: Exploding Distributor

Click and Clack the car guys on NPR had a piece about exploding
distributors. They blamed it on a leaky vacuum line allowing gasoline fumes
to get into the distributor. Maybe you should check this before putting new
parts in place.

Ned Heite
Camden, Delaware 19934
Icelandic wool catalogue:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland
See our draft articles on: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

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Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 09:46:04 +1100
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Heaters

> does anyone know an actual working solution to the perrenial problems
> posed by my vehicle's "heating" system.

While neither Canberra nor Pretoria gets as cold as Banff in winter, I've
had a sIII in each of the former, and gave up on any attempt at wrestling
noticeable heat out of either (especially when you take draftiness into
account).

For all three places, I recommend thermal underwear, polarfleece outers,
and maybe a gortex shell (beats fixing the leaky roof).  Pretend that the
heater doesn't exist, or even remove it to make space for a spare battery.

Works for me.

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:24:02 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head

Sanna@aol.com wrote:
> Lulubelle's out on the west coast (Oregon) down with a cracked head.  I've
> got all the head rebuild parts, but without a head to put them on (the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> away.
> Thanks.

Is that a gas or diesel head?  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:34:49 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 

wleacock@pipeline.com wrote:
> I am very interested in the response of this request.   I have in my
> backyard a dear old Triumph Spit, which I first owned many years ago.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Bill Leacock    Limey in exile
> 89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

I was going to mention this if someone else didn't In my neck of the 
woods this "stitching" as it is called is done by mobile diesel repair 
fellows who usually come to the broken down vehicle out in the field and 
repair it on the spot.  I understand that this is quite common on very 
large and expensive diesel blocks in cats and ships etc.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:44:54 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Cracked block

I had a hole punched through the block on my IIA when the wrist pin let 
go.  The pin went through the block and because the counter weight hit it 
square, it was punched through the block like it had been drilled.  The 
mounting for the generator stopped the block from smashing.  Anyway, I 
used a hot water tank plug for two years on that hole and it worked just 
fine.  I used a type that allowed me to put a nut on the outside and the 
head of the bolt inside the block with two plates with two heavy rubber 
washers.  It worked just fine and I would have left it that way except 
that the cyl. bore was scored by the accident and I had to hone it out 
and fit one oversized ring and piston.  Of course the balance was off and 
it made the engine rough. It ran however for two years that way.  The 
block was sold to a fellow in Thompson Manitoba and I think he sleeved it 
and continued to use it with the plug.  
I have a diesel head if the one cracked one is a diesel.  It has all but 
one valve still in it and looks fine.  About $50 should be fine.
I am selling a rebuilt 69 Ser IIA, new paint, interior, engine with about 
4000 miles, trans with new bearings, new springs, Raylco's etc. etc. 
about $10k Canadian and you pick up. That is about $7500 U.S. these days 
I think.  Looking for a Ser III in need of repair or no engine that I can 
tow perhaps up to 500 miles of Manitoba OK. 88 or 109.  You can see this 
vehicle on WWW page of Jimmyp I think.  Dave VE4PN  For more info E-Mail 
me

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 18:47:24 -0500
From: blainh@accent.net (Blain Hughes)
Subject: Gas Tank Repairs

Bryce
Concerning gas tank repairs. I have had great luck using 500mls of Canadian
Tire ABS cement to do the repair. Remove the sender unit and use masking
tape to cover the hole then pour the ABS into the filler hole and tape it
closed using masking tape again or since w'ere Canadians Duct Tape. Now
just rotate the tank around so that all the sides are covered, put the tank
in a warm place and repeat the coating process several times. The cement
will come out the pinholes the first time but it will also fill the holes
and dry there. When you repeat the coating action the holes will be well
sealed. I have used this method several times and the only time it failed
was when I did not get the tank properly cleaned. I believe you can also
get an aircraft sloshing compound that does the same thing but it is alot
more expensive and in my experience ABS cement works just as well.

Good luck
Blain
1972 88 For Sale
!969 88 Awaiting Frame Transplant
1968 P6 TC

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 19:51:40 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head (Choke Cable - Expensive)

TeriAnn writes:
> uncracked used heads seem to be very hard to find.  Its got to be up there
> with unobtainable early choke cables.

A minor quibble: Early choke cables are still available in England, but
expensive. Try Blanchard or Craddock in England and expect to pay the
larger part of $100 with shipping. I'm sure some very usable choke
cables have been tossed by those parting-out LRs recently.
 
Now for some tough to find parts: SII (NOT SIIA) main and rod bearings,
particularly original and 0.010" OS.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 19:28:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?

Hi Al, I just went through tow hell with u-haul :(  ,  I called to reserve a
car transporter
and they asked what I was towing. I told the truth and said `63 LR SWB . Iwas
then told that they couldn`t rent one to me because my `96 Disco was to light
(think she was on drugs), so instead of getting a rental in N.H. I had to tow
it from MD to Maine and back. so if your going to u-haul , when they ask what
you are towing LIE .  Tell them something light and get a local rental. 
                             Rgds, Rick

`96 Disco
`63 SII 
`97 Blazer

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From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 19:32:18 -0500

John Ousterhout writes. :-
Subject: Harmonic balancer(was:We Survived!!)

Greetings Keith, from a fellow deezil driver: The 2.25 diesel engine came 
with a harmonic balancer on the front pulley assembly. Perhaps the one on 
yours has failed? It has a rubber center that will eventually fail, allowing 

 The balancer was fitted to the 2 litre diesels not to the 2.25, the 2.25
diesel is the  same as the 2.25  petrol

 Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in  exile.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 01:48:33 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Heaters

Paul Nash wrote:
> > does anyone know an actual working solution to the perrenial problems
> > posed by my vehicle's "heating" system.

Easy - do all your winter driving between May and September, and all
your summer driving between September and May, that way the temperature
of the Series II will actually match the climate.

Otherwise, ask Bill for the back-issues of all the postings on Series
III heaters, from Smiths to Kodiak, and Mufflers, rebuilding heaters and
so on, print them out on thick paper, and wedge the papers down a pair
of thermal long-johns and wellington boots, that may help to keep warm.

Lastly a (slightly) more practical solution - invest a few hundred
dollars in any of the improvements which are supposed to make the Series
III inhabitable under 10°C, and say to yourself "That was a wie
investment, I can feel it is a little warmer" If you say it often
enough, you may even believe it!

Please excuse my satirical view point, but after 15 years with these
lovable wind-tunnels-on-four-wheels I am becoming resigned to the fact
that the only way to heat a series III is to heat the garage and leave
it there.

Yours roverly,
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 18:54:05 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: SIIA Harmonic balancers??

Now you've got my curiosity up. I can see how my two marine diesels may have 
differed from the automotive versions, and came with harmonic balancers, but 
all 4 of the series IIA diesels I've seen had them, including a 1-owner'64 
109 with only 40,000 miles. All of these had their balancers fail. Now I 
wonder, did these '64's and '65's have series 2 engines?? Were the 2-liter 
diesels made longer than the petrol versions, or were the balancers kept on 
the NADA-market versions? (I think I'll look up the differences in my books 
tonight)
John Ousterhout
> The balancer was fitted to the 2 litre diesels not to the 2.25, the 2.25
>diesel is the  same as the 2.25  petrol
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
>89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 19:04:36 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Cracked In the Head

At 12:04 PM 2/4/97 -0500, Sanna@aol.com wrote:

>>I recently talked with British Pacific.  They have a complete new 8:1 head
;>set up for unleaded.  Just take it out of the box and bolt it on your
>>engine.
;Does anyone have B-P's number?
;
1-800-5544133

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 23:30:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Anybody in the Boston, Ma., USA area got a towbar?

On Tue, 04 Feb 97, "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> wrote:
>I though everyone in the States used Zippy Tow :-)

Wouldn't want to deny Churchill the honor of towing one of his bretheren...;)

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 05:50:11 +0100
From: Luc Rokegem <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: 110 Heater Fan

Gregspitz@aol.com wrote:
> the heater fan on my 93 NAS 110 keeps blowing the 30 amp fuse under the hood
> and finally will not work at all...I suspect a short and the dealer will fix
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> thanks
> Greg

The bearings inside the heater fan needs some grease, is it screaming 
sometimes ?  I had the same problem and I took the heater apart.  The
garage won't do that, they will fit a new and expensive one !
You have to use some plyers because the heater can normally not be
opend. Seal it afterwards with some paint to prevent dust getting in.
regards,
-- 

        ____________
       //  |        |   Luc Rokegem
  ____//___|        |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
 |  _ |    |    _   |#  defender@belgonet.be
 |_/ \|____|___/ \__|   ex-army 110
   \_/         \_/      my next one = Lightweight with 2.5 Td/5-speed

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 23:59:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Stop sending me mail!!!

I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 00:03:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Paint Removal from galvanized Bits

I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail

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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: www.bsroa.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 23:58:19 -0500

The skeleton web page for the BSROA is finally up, thanks to member =
Margarita Metaxas. Thanks, much.

And thanks to all those other members who have offered to do same =
(especially Randy Parker) and through my own lack of time, have failed =
to act upon these voluntary efforts until now.

It will, in time, add a necessary dimension to the Club's information =
dissemination effort.

Thanks, again.

Jim

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 00:28:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Stop email!!!!!!

Please take me off your e mail list I donot own a land rover. pwright@aol.com

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 01:02:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Trivia question.

Hi all,

I was on the net earlier today and found a very interesting link between the
Hummer and Land Rovers.  I'm sure many of you will be able to easily figure
it out but I'll post the answer tomorrow (2/5) anyway.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 01:44:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Paint Stripping Galvanized Surfaces

I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail

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Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:47:35 -0600
From: Nathaniel Council <council@gcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Stop sending me mail!!!

PWright@aol.com wrote:
> I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail

The poor soul we should pitty him. Not for the mail but the tragic lack
of a Land Rover. I say we hold a fund raiser.

			Nathan

1977 SerIII

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 01:50:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: SIII Gearbox, clutch, transmission brake

I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Stop sending me mail!!!
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 08:01:56 +0100 (MET)

Nathan writes:
| PWright@aol.com wrote:
| > I do not own a land Rover!!! get me off your mail
| The poor soul we should pitty him. Not for the mail but the tragic lack
| of a Land Rover. I say we hold a fund raiser.

argh! Good idea, but I just told him how to get off the list :-(

Keep the oily side down,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de

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From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 02:12:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: unsubscribe

Me to pwright@aol.com

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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: On the subject of Gas Tanks
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 11:41:49 +-100

Jeffrey Alan Berry[SMTP:jaberry@sprintmail.com] wrote:
For those who are interested, I have published at:
http://websites.i2020.net/~jaberry/Jeffs.htm
An article complete with pictures on how I installed a Series tank under
the passenger seat of my 94 D90.  Took a bit of work but it works
great.  Let me know what you think. --

This is a great page, I think it is possible to 
do the operation without major problem using this 
step by step guide, or use it for inspiration for 
own setups.
Thanks for it, I will come back to Your page regulary.

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment Removed, was 42 lines.]	end

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Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 09:45:05 +0000 (GMT)
From: Richard Jackson <RICHARD.JACKSON@nene.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Blimey

>>Blimey
>And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?

Bloody Limey!!!! :-)
^      ^^^^^
Rich

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From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
Date:          Wed, 5 Feb 1997 12:49:19 +0200
Subject:       Re: ammeter mtg.

> Use at least the same gauge of wire presently going to the alternator, nothing
> smaller.  If a short occurs, you WILL fry, as in 'lite up like a Roman
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> extinguisher is in the back of the truck somewhere....talk about
> PANIC.  I thought the truck was a gonner, but luckily I still had the

There is an easier way, one that is used routinely in all heavy
current applications, and one that does not irritate Lucas and his
troops.

One uses a voltmeter which measures the voltage drop across a
purpose designed current shunt which is in the heavy gauge wire to
the works.  The voltmeter (which typically measures a drop in the
millivolt range) is remotely mounted in the dash and has light gauge
wire running to it.  Protection is by means of a fuse AT THE current
shunt, and the fuse is typically one amp or less.

We use this system on the boat that I sail on for currents in the
range 1 to 300 amps.  I also use it on my ham radio power supplies,
pulling about 100 amps max.

Peter Burgers
SIII Chev. 4.1 Gas guzzling conversion

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Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 11:17:04 +0000 ()
From: "Johnny Storm:- International Racing car driver" <hiu06f@bangor.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Blimey

On Tue, 4 Feb 1997 smith007@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> >Blimey
> And what the heck does BLIMEY mean?

Blimey is a shortened version of 'God blind me'. It means the same thing
as 'Blinking heck' 'bloomin' hell'. It is used to convey the emotion of
the person who says it as being shocked,suprised, impressed etc.

for example you might say "Gor blimey, youve fitted a cobra le mans
engine into your herald!"

I hope that this has been helpful!

Johnny Storm
'77 Spit 1500

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