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From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 07:08:51 -500
Subject: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

What began as a mental exercise to explore a method of using two
gastanks on a vehicle has become a mechanical engineering quest.
Might someone have ideas on filling and consuming fuel from 
two separate tanks plumbed together.  Parameters: only one fuel 
filler opening allowed, only one drain to engine allowed, electric
pump to transfer between tanks and to engine.  Let the mind roam!
Mark    
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 14:26:14 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> What began as a mental exercise to explore a method of using two
> gastanks on a vehicle has become a mechanical engineering quest.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> pump to transfer between tanks and to engine.  Let the mind roam!
> Mark

On a 109"/110". How about a 45 litre tank mounted in the right rear
wing, immediately below the existing filler and draining directly into
the main tank. Therefore no extra plumbing, no extra pickup points,
works on the existing gauge, etc.

I've seen some of these tanks and they seem to work quite well.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 13:21:39 +0100 (MET)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

| Might someone have ideas on filling and consuming fuel from 
| two separate tanks plumbed together.  Parameters: only one fuel 
| filler opening allowed, only one drain to engine allowed, electric
| pump to transfer between tanks and to engine.  Let the mind roam!
Tanks on same level or not?
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
--MimeMultipartBoundary--

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 12:34:07 +0000
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

On  3 Feb 97, Mark Gehlhausen wrote:

> What began as a mental exercise to explore a method of using two
> gastanks on a vehicle has become a mechanical engineering quest.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> opening allowed, only one drain to engine allowed, electric pump to
> transfer between tanks and to engine.  Let the mind roam! Mark    
Simple.

Mount the two tanks at the same level (ie underneath each seat) and 
join the two outlet pipes together with a "Y" junction, leading to 
the fuel-pump.

Running below the chassis, preferably protected ;-), is a big-bore 
pipe which will equilibriate the liquid levels within the two tanks.

Running between the top of each tank is a small air-hose, to allow 
the remote tank ventilation into the filler-tank.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 07:26:45 -500
Subject: Block Hole Repairs

I do not have a proven method to fix the crack in your 2.6 block, but 
once I saw a photo of some famous British (probably MG) racing 
engine.  I believe it was a four cylinder, probably from a "B".  And 
there was a patch over an apparent hole in the block.  It was in a 
noncritical location, no water passage, etc....  I believe it was 
bolted and applied with some sort of miracle goo.  

I am very interested in the response of this request.   I have in my
backyard a dear old Triumph Spit, which I first owned many years ago. 
It has a similar block exit in a noncritical area.  I would love to 
reuse this engine.  OK, I know this is sentimental, but I had a lot 
of great miles with that block.  It got me home many a late night.
Mark

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 07:48:40 -500
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

The gastanks are mounted on a moving vehicle, generally at the same 
level.  An electric pump could be used to transfer fluid.  Mark 

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Land Rover for Sale 1970 SIIA
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 07:53:00 -0500

I was contacted by Peter Baran of New York City, who has the following
Land Rover for sale in Toronto.
1970 SIIA 88, Soft Top and Hardtop, rear seats, good frame, recent
exhaust and engine work. brakes and other stuff. Located in Etobicoke,
where it has been parked in his father's garage for two years. asking
$2500 US. Contact Peter at 212-727-7620

------------------------------

Subject: Round headed rivets
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 97 07:15:07 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Last week, someone listed the name of a supplier for the rounded headed 
rivets that are so commonly used all over our rovers.
Could you mention that supplier again?  Or send me the address via 
e-mail?  Does Rover's North keep some in stock?  What type of tool is 
used to install them?

Thanks

Keith

Keith W. Cooper
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*                  "Arkansas Land Rover Association"                    *
*                        1965 Diesel SIIA 88"                           *
*                     '96 Land Rover Discovery SE                       *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:25:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Round headed rivets

In a message dated 97-02-03 08:16:39 EST, you write:

>Last week, someone listed the name of a supplier for the rounded headed 
>rivets that are so commonly used all over our rovers.
>Could you mention that supplier again?  Or send me the address via 
>e-mail?  Does Rover's North keep some in stock?  What type of tool is 
>used to install them?

I think you are talking bout wadsworth panels in the UK phone number is
 44   01422 822200 
They have the correct rivits and the tool you would need for their correct
placement

Hope this helps
Rgds
Steve Bradke  96 Discovery
                     72 S lll 88
                     68 S lla 88

------------------------------

From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:30:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Old farts

I think one of the wonderful things about e-mail is how ageless it can make
us.  I was once in discussion with someone about a computer related subject
and later found out he was 15, yet I'd had a one-toone with him without any
prejudice.  anyone can join in here with the only proviso being an interest
in Land Rovers.  I have been in love with Land Rovers since before I could or
rather was allowed to drive, and will probably continue with that interest.
  This does not denote an inability or fear to face things new as we are
using new technology as a medium for our comunication.  

This is not a praise or criticism of TeriAnn, just my comment on my opinion
of how irrelevant age is here.

Regards

Jamie

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:30:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Round headed rivets

Go to the nearest airport with an FBO (repair shop).

These are used on airplanes. Bring the Rover and you'll probably get a
handful of 'em for free...

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Hi-Lift and Jackall
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:30:00 -0500

I have been told, though I forget the source, that the Jackall and
Hi-Lift parts are interchangable because Hi-Lift get their jack
mechanisms from Jackall. The other parts of the assemby are made
locally. Can anyone confirm or refute this?

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:40:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

 
 On  3 Feb 97, Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
 What began as a mental exercise to explore a method of using two
 gastanks on a vehicle has become a mechanical engineering quest.
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
 opening allowed, only one drain to engine allowed, electric pump to
 transfer between tanks and to engine.  Let the mind roam! Mark 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~   
Ian Stuart replied:
 Simple.
 
 Mount the two tanks at the same level (ie underneath each seat) and 
 join the two outlet pipes together with a "Y" junction, leading to 
 the fuel-pump.
 
 Running below the chassis, preferably protected ;-), is a big-bore 
 pipe which will equilibriate the liquid levels within the two tanks.
 
 Running between the top of each tank is a small air-hose, to allow 
 the remote tank ventilation into the filler-tank.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This is the same system used by the Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger  and works 
just fine if you keep the pipes and hoses protected and maintained.  These 
cars have a tank in each fender up in the tailfin area, one filler and one 
fuel gauge.  No y junction need be used as the original supply lines, gauge 
location etc. will work just as before, as long as the connecting fluid plumbing 
is below the level of the tanks, allowing free flow at low fuel levels.
  The vent connector can go anywhere above the tanks .

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:46:30 +0100
Subject:       Re: Block Hole Repairs

Well Mark  
 
Well Mark, 

I read that you do not have a proven method to fix the crack in your 
2.6 block, but I do.

Even in critical areas you shoul be abel to weld it with a tig 
welder (Argon arc). No miracle goo, yust find a suitable chunk of the 
same material as the engine was made of. And a craftsman to do the 
welding, wouldn't cost Megabucks either!! 

It has been done before.

Regards, 

Huub Pennings

(Just bought myself a tig welder for 30 Us $, one month ago)

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:00:48 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Old farts...

When I left home and went away to university, I thought my parents ignorant,
or at best ill-informed. When I returned after three years, I was amazed at
the amount they had learnt in the time that I had been absent.

Tom

________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 8:55:24 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Paint Stripping Galvanized Surfaces

Kieth:
If you try to do this job with the parts on the truck, you'll make a 
mess.
Do yourself a favor and wait for a nice long warm weekend. Then get a 
couple of friends together and pull the body apart. It takes about half a 
day to get everything taken off. Then another full day to get the 
sub-assemblies stripped of parts. With the rear tub up on sawhorses, you 
can remove the cappings for replacement or refinishing, along with the 
doortops, rear door and so forth. Remove the rivet heads with a sharp 
wood chisel. Pull off the cappings and corners. You'll probably reveal 
plenty of gunk and goo that needs to be cleaned up, and the galvanized 
pieces will need to go out for dipping. You may wish to paint the truck 
at this point, as it's all accessable ( you can do it yourself with a 
foam roller and a feathering brush ). The following weekend, after you 
have picked up your regalvanized cappings, you can begin to install them. 
Pop rivets are easiest to use and in places where they won't be seen, 
make more sense. If you want to retain the original look with the 
round-head rivets, you'll need a setting die and a helper to hold it. 
More work, but worth it.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Old Farts
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:02:00 -0500

Discussion reminds me of the bumper sticker "Ask a teenager, they know
everything"

------------------------------

From: David W Scott <birddog@atl.mindspring.com>
Subject: Phoenix
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:15:09 -0600

I am now entering the two year mark on my Rover Restorations.  The last =
year has been a little rough with two angioplasties and finally open =
heart surgery last week.  I dont recall my arteries being that bad =
before I tore down the first Land Rover!  I had gotten where I did spine =
surgery to relieve the stress of rebuilding the rovers.  I am a 1945 =
model and enjoyed the post of the 46 model and Teri- Anns psychological =
profile on the baby boomer. I am also a high mileage model with very =
poor maintenance records and many previous owners. After years of =
retrospect I believe my personal problem was not generational but damage =
to the self discipline gene.  I do have a record of finishing things, =
though seldom as I envisioned at the outset.  I now have three Rovers =
torn down to the frame with the parts intermingled also with new =
unlabeled parts and no organizational skills.  I am also blessed with =
two unhealthy aging, bored retired gentleman helpers(one on peritoneal =
dialysis at home) who were born with similar organizational skills to my =
own.  We spend most of our rebuild time looking for where the other put =
the parts. I feel that we will give little long term competition to Mike =
Smith.  The large warehouse is owned by a very indulgent friend, who is =
now hospitalized, possibly from a stress related illness aggravated by =
being my friend.  I am also concerned on the amount of alcohol it takes =
to get through one restoration, much less three.  Our group , in its =
present state, resembles the play area of a nursing home.  We would be =
distinct from the macho Camel Trophy Team USA ( though not that =
different from the Kingdom's).
     Seven days post-op, I am back at it again.  Now without the =
constraints of my day job I hope to get prince charles (67 88 safari) a =
driveable chassis.  We are working on the wiring now.  Prince Charles =
was named at the outset for its considerable rebuild cost with galv =
frame, turner engine, turner tranny, and ten percent interest in AB.  I =
feel now the cost warrants a name change to the "crown jewel".  If not =
in value, certainly in cost!
    I took apart the Smith heater and have it repainted working etc. =
with a serviceable core.  Is the heater worth putting in?  I live in =
Auburn, Al so we only have a couple of months of cool weather.  Any =
alternatives?   
     Hope this post finds you all well despite your addiction, thanks =
for your entertainment the last two years..    birddog

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 09:17:06 -0500
Subject: NAS 110 137/500, are you here?

Yesterday I saw the elusive 110 that lives around here - Sandy Hook NJ
area, have seen it 4-5 times before, never got to talk to the owner.
Are you here?  You're leaking coolant big time, fix it before you kill a
pet.

I didn't realise the NAS 110s had the added grille piece, is it for the
electric pusher fans?  Howcome the D90's don't have that?
Jan

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:17:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Erik,

On this model, there is a circuit safety valve located (on LHD) on the top of
the frame rail, just behind the rear axle.  What the valve does is shut off
either the front or rear circuit in case of brake line failure.  What you
probably did when bleeding the system is violently pump up the brake pedal
and then open one of the bleed screws.  The valve sees this as a failure and
moves towards the open circuit.

What the V8 supplement says to do is SLOWLY pump up the brakes and open a
bleed screw on the circuit that has pressure.  This SHOULD move the valve
shuttle to the mid position (If it goes all the way over, you will hear a
loud click).  

What we had to do (and you probably should do, given the age of the truck) is
remove the three lines and the electric plug in (which goes to the brake
light on the dash), then remove the two bolts that hold the valve to the
frame.  Disassemble the valve (very easy to do) and clean out throughly.
 Ours was full of rust and crud.  Reassemble with the shuttle in the center
of the valve body and reinstall on the truck.

Use a pressure bleeder on the master cylinder to bleed the system.  If you
must use the pump the pedal method, go slowly with the pedal.

Hope this helps.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:15:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Subscription

You can order a subscription online web.idirect.com/~lroshop/ or, if 
you are in North America, call us toll free at 1-888-LRO-SHOP.  
Outside of North America call us at (1)905-436-3147 or fax us at 
(1)905-434-6874.

You can also email us your credit card details and full address.

Regards.
LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 9:15:09 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Can't wait for a V8...

Alas, poor Bill McDonald's 2.6 is no longer with us. It had a severe case 
of con-rod-thru-the-block-itis.
With our thinking caps set on "stun", we have been wondering if it's 
possible to install a 3.5 in the109 2A that sits now engine-less in his 
driveway. Does it require a heartier driveline, an adaptor plate for the 
bellhousing,...what?
There's plenty of room since it has a Kenlowe fan and no batteries in the 
engine room ...Mr Scott, I need warp drive NOW!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 9:16:23 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Old farts...

That sounds suspiciously like Samuel Clemens

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:21:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Re: Brake shuttle valve:

Where do you get one of these?

One of my biggest fears with my old 109 is losing some bit of the brake
lines and all the brakes...one of those in the setup would make my life
MUCH happier...

               aj"Should go dual circuit....some other time...."r

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Round headed rivets
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:55:24 +0100 (MET)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

| Last week, someone listed the name of a supplier for the rounded headed 
| rivets that are so commonly used all over our rovers.
| Could you mention that supplier again?  Or send me the address via 
| e-mail?  Does Rover's North keep some in stock?  What type of tool is 
| used to install them?
Over here you can buy them and the tool in every hardware store.
The tool is a pliers like thing that pulls the pin out of the nut.
The cheaper tools with a assortment of rivets go for about 20US$.
100p 5*20mm rivets cost about 4$.
Hope this helps,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

--MimeMultipartBoundary--

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:23:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Can't wait for a V8...

There was an article about such a job on a 2A88 in LRo last Summer.

Seems doable, from what I can remember. It took installation of the EFI
computer and a load of rewiring, bulkhead mods (dunno about a 6-banger
bulkhead), an adapter and mods to the crankshaft, and new mounts on the
frame.

If you don't drive it like an idiot, all else should be OK.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:25:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Brake problems

OOPS!  Forgot to say the valve is on top of the right frame rail.

Larry

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:28:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Alan,

As far as I know, they came on the later SIIIs, esp. the V8s.  Probably would
have to order one from the UK.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Can't wait for a V8...
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 14:38:00 PST

But the half-shafts canny take it captain! (And probably the gearbox can't 
either)

Go with a 2.25l Landie engine, or find another 2.6l block.

Scotty, '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------

Alas, poor Bill McDonald's 2.6 is no longer with us. It had a severe case
of con-rod-thru-the-block-itis.
With our thinking caps set on "stun", we have been wondering if it's
possible to install a 3.5 in the109 2A that sits now engine-less in his
driveway. Does it require a heartier driveline, an adaptor plate for the
bellhousing,...what?
There's plenty of room since it has a Kenlowe fan and no batteries in the
engine room ...Mr Scott, I need warp drive NOW!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:49:16 +0100 (MET)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

| The gastanks are mounted on a moving vehicle, generally at the same 
| level.  An electric pump could be used to transfer fluid.  Mark 
Why not use Ians setup?

           air pipe
         ==============        filler
 _______||            ||______||
| tank 1  |          | tank 2  |
|________ |          | ________|

         ||          ||
         |_====--====_|
               ||
          to fuel pump

Both tanks will always have the same level and you will just need
one gauge. The connection pipe for the fuel should be big enough
to allow the levels to egalize fast while filling.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

--MimeMultipartBoundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:01:54 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Can't wait for a V8...

Hmmm... 
Frame mods aren't a problem, but having to pull the crankshaft does sound 
like a pain in the rear.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 09:11:12 -0600

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 17:11:33 +-100

Hello!

Now all these solutions we have heard is for LRs with 
2 tanks, mounted in equal level, eg. under both front 
seats.
I have a 110 inch 12 seat, with rearmounted center tank. 

In the left side of the LR, there is a toolstore, in 
the right side, nothing except the rubber tube from the 
filler cap to the tank.

It will be logic to manufactor a tank, shape and size 
like the toolbox, and substitude the rubbertube with that, 
but there will be some problems making the interconnection 
between the tanks. 

Anyone did that ??   How ?

A question about security: I this is done, the tank will be 
wright in the corner of the car. Very mutch in the way of 
anything hitting from the side. 

Anyone have a solution for this ?
Is it legal to have a tank like that, unprotected ?

Sorry for the silly questions, but the security of my family 
and myself is important for me.

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment Removed, was 45 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:19:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Subscription

My aplogies to the list.  We intended to reply to this individual 
directly.  Instead we replied to the list.

My staff have been warned of this and we shall do our best to ensure 
it does not happen again.

Regards.
LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 10:07:56 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Can't wait for a V8...

>>>But the half-shafts canny take it captain! (And probably the gearbox can't 
either)

I think a SIIa 'box is strong enough for the V8. A III box no. Get a used 
later style 24 spline diff from a breakers, and swap in a locker and your 
old 4.7 r&p. (if its off a d90, disco or rr it'll be a 3.5) you can either 
get 24 spline inner/10 spline outer axle shafts, and use your drive 
flanges, or go 24/24 and bolt up the existing drive flange. THe shafts 
might be too long though, I don't know. OR you can plop a Salisbury back 
there since its a 109 it'll be a straight fit, I think RN has Salisbury 
propshafts on sale right now too.

>>Go with a 2.25l Landie engine, or find another 2.6l block.

These options would certainly be easier, but the result would not be nearly 
as cool. When my engine goes off over the rainbow bridge I don't think its 
getting replaced with another 2.25. I've been enjoying lots of pleasing 
thoughts lately, involving my engine bay, only with the current lump 
replaced by a shiny (not for long) 2.5 diesel. I would swap the rear axle 
as stated above.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 10:24:30 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Can't wait for a V8...

>Hmmm... 
>Frame mods aren't a problem, but having to pull the crankshaft does sound 
>like a pain in the rear.

Just drilling it for a different pilot bush i think. Shouldn't have to pull 
it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 16:32:02 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Many Thanks!!

D.M.Phillips wrote:
> You may remember about a week ago I asked for persuasive arguments for
> owning a Land Rover, well thanks to all who replied I WAS SUCCESSFUL!!.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> So to all who gave their assistance - bravo!! - and thank you kindly!!
> I just have one technical query though, it'll follow shortly......
Well done and welcome to the club
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 10:49:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Exploding Distributor 

>I will be ordering a new distributor this week.  Should I just order the 
>standard Lucas is there something else that would be better for a comparable 
>or at least reasonable price. 

dan, you could always plop a used one in there...be alot cheaper.
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:01:33 +0000
Subject: Re: Can't wait for a V8...

On  3 Feb 97, Adams, Bill wrote:

> Hmmm... 
> Frame mods aren't a problem, but having to pull the crankshaft does
> sound like a pain in the rear.
Actually, they ground about an inch off the end

(shudder!)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: US tire co
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 08:02:40 -0800

Hi,
My own experience with The old US Royal tire co. was,
The darn tires would have blowouts out the sidewalls (even my bicycle tires)
While having 90% of tread left.
NO way would I buy any US Royals.
Then they went through an update and changed to Uniroyal.
I still wont use them, but they must be improved to stay around this long.

Bob B

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:07:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Exploding Distributor 

On  3 Feb 97, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> >I will be ordering a new distributor this week.  Should I just
> >order the standard Lucas is there something else that would be
> >better for a comparable or at least reasonable price. 
I use a Mini distributor...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:56:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: NAS 110 137/500, are you here?

Jan asks:

<I didn't realise the NAS 110s had the added grille piece, is it for the
electric pusher fans?  Howcome the D90's don't have that?
Jan>

It is because the 110s came with a different form of A/C than the 90s. The
110s all had a factory installed A/C system that required two fans (because
one or the other is usually broken) infront of the radiator. Also, they don't
take away space in the passenger (RH) footwell for the a/c box. That box of
stuff is located in the (hot) engine compartment.

pat
#241

------------------------------

From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 17:10:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake problems

> On this model, there is a circuit safety valve located (on LHD) on the top of
> the frame rail, just behind the rear axle.  What the valve does is shut off
> either the front or rear circuit in case of brake line failure.  What you

Er... I've had some experience with this valve... I broke a rear brake line
on my SIII 88" a couple of years ago. The warning light lit up, helpfully
informing me that I had lost all braking power. Oh thank you, I'd never
have guessed :-)

Anyway, as I was puzzled by this behaviuor I dismantled the shuttle valve
whilst repairing the brakes. Turned out that the valve will set off
a warning light, but there is no way it will close a failed circuit.
As a result of this, the chamber in the master cylinder assigned to the
rear circuit compressed completely, and prevented the other chamber from
compressing at all. Thus, no front brakes either.

I replaced the valve with a new, genuine one, only to find it was exactly
the same construction.

Oh well.

TK
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol "dual" circuit brakes

-- 
telnet 144.92.240.17 666
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lysaker Torg 25       Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-1324, Lysaker       Direct  +47 6711 3657

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 11:16:16 -0500
Subject: got my tires.. thx for advice..

I just ordered Dunlop Radial Rover (what else!) RTs in 7.50-16s at $78
ea.  The tread looks like a good mix of road/MT.  The tubes will be $10
or so extra, shipping maybe $5 ea more.  Man, this truck is bleedin' me
dry!

I have 3 decent Michelins XZY's tubed and 4 good tubes left out of this
deal - real cheap if somebody wants them.
rgds
Jan (in NJ)

------------------------------

From: Rory <u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk>
Subject:  Re: Firewall feet rust damage,...
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:22:38 +0000 (GMT)

On Sat, 01 Feb 97 12:40:00 est Lotus Mail Exchange 
<Lotus_Mail_Exchange_at_BLEMAIL@blwn0009.bausch.com> wrote:					

> Subject:
> Re: Firewall feet rust damage, gearbox-outing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
> ---------------------------------------------------
Adrian, from your letter you presumably mean what is known in Britain as the foot-well, (The bit 
where the pedals dangle on the drivers side of the vehicle).  Replacement of this part is relatively 
simple and depending on the available tools fairly quick. The parts are cheap, And available from 
Paddock Motors, Matlock, Derbyshire, Via Mail order. 
	The job can be accomplished without removing the pedals if you cut the replacement part to 
allow the pedals to fit through.
Cheers, 
	Rory & Frosty. 

------------------------------

From: "Tim Rushton" <tim@pavilion.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Old farts
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:24:41 -0000

Jamie,
	I too have had seminal experiences while under the influence of acid (but
please don't try it whilst driving your Rover)

A request to all out there; As it's still winter and bloody cold in the
morning driving to work in my SIII 109 FFR with the soft top on, does
anyone know an actual working solution to the perrenial problems posed by
my vehicle's "heating" system. The best I can get is icy cold air for the
first 15 minutes of my journey, followed by a hazy petrol-smelling (yum!)
fine mist which emanates from the behind the dash and before long, covers
my windscreen from the bottom-up in a thin, but deceptively opaque fog.

Tim.
http://www.pavilion.co.uk/users/tim

----------
> From: JmieWilson@aol.com
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Date: 03 February 1997 13:30
> I think one of the wonderful things about e-mail is how ageless it can
make
> us.  I was once in discussion with someone about a computer related
subject
> and later found out he was 15, yet I'd had a one-toone with him without
any
> prejudice.  anyone can join in here with the only proviso being an
interest
> in Land Rovers.  I have been in love with Land Rovers since before I
could or
> rather was allowed to drive, and will probably continue with that
interest.
>   This does not denote an inability or fear to face things new as we are
> using new technology as a medium for our comunication.  
> This is not a praise or criticism of TeriAnn, just my comment on my
> Date: 03 February 1997 13:30
opinion
> of how irrelevant age is here.
> Regards
> Jamie
> Date: 03 February 1997 13:30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 11:10:20 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Distance(pieces, that is)

Eric-
a little sumthin I penned for the rover list...refers to leaky hub oil 
seals and the resulting loss of brakes due to oil-soaked shoes. The seal 
usually gets replaced but the race it rides against is the culprit more 
often than not...

Ode to the Distance Piece

There was a young man from the North 
His brake pedal went back and forth 
With no effect on the speed of the ride 
His Landy would veer to the starboard side

So he pulled the wheels off for a peek 
And found something akin to a leak
It was oil all over his brakes!
A worn out seal! A piece of cake!

He found the directions in the factory tome
So off came the hub and a new seal pressed home 
New brake shoes were easily put into place
But lo! He neglected to check the race

And soon his Landy reverted
to that practice quite perverted
Of wandering off to the starboard side 
And once again he feared for his hide 

So out came the wrenches
and inside went the wenches 
And off came the drum 
And "gee Am I dumb"

Once again the oil had found its way out 
As if it was poured from a teapot spout
He read the dirrections that said "look for scoring" 
Previously thought to be simply boring

So heeding the masters directions to a tee
he placed his chisel on the race and shouted with glee 
As all it took was one solid whack
And then there appeared a substantial crack

The distance piece which had caused so much greif 
Was now indeed a source of relief
For only a bit of hard-earned loot
A new race in place and a seal to boot

Let this be a lesson to all who would try 
To change just the seal- you wont get by! 
It doesn't take more than a minute or two 
To make the roads safer for me and you...

And when its all over pat yourself on the back 
Pour yourself a pint of that brew so black 
Sorry its not quite yet time for a ride
Now go and repeat this for the other side!!

Save the Seals
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 11:34:41 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: Stainless steel exhausts

Fellow Bofs!
Thanks for the advice; Sorry Mike Carradine, I live in UK so getting an
exhaust is no prob, I just wondered which of the LRO/LRW advertisers' duff
systems to which the article was referring, although Dave B's advice has
led me to think again.
  Different subject, water in footwells. this morning there was a
particularly hrad frost and I had ice on inside of windscreen ( its a
ragtop). Perhaps this is a source of the footwell puddles but if it melts
before you see it, you are left looking for a major leak when its actually 
frozen condensation? BTW, anybody had probs with D90Tdi filler-cap lock
continually freezing?
U/S is out of date, RAF uses expression Tango uniform (Tits Up); airlines
say "Gone Tech" which sounds better to pax' ears than "Its broke".

Cheers,
MikeG, Slll Lightweight `Wicked Wanda'.

------------------------------

From: Rory <u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:39:20 +0000 (GMT)

On Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:04:31 -0800 Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com> 
wrote:

> I think the "capacity" of the hi-lift vs. the jackall is academic. I have a 
> 4' Hi-lift and it takes a sizable percentage of my meager 150 pound weight 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 44 lines)]
> Jeremy
> From Rory and Frosty (SIII LWB) 
							Does anyone have any good tips for changing 
a flat tyre using only the High-Lift Jack and no assistance,  as I have found it a very precarious 
operation without someone to stop the top of the jack moving as the rover sways in the slightest 
breeze. 
reply to u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: BDiAngelo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 11:40:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: question/submission

Hello.  Just checking references here.  Does anyone know anything about
British Bulldog in Fall River, MA?  They import, fix and sell.  Any insight
is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance and good day.

Ben

------------------------------

From: Rory <u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Old farts
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 17:07:42 +0000 (GMT)

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:24:41 -0000 Tim Rushton <tim@pavilion.co.uk> 
wrote:

> Jamie,
> 	I too have had seminal experiences while under the influence of acid (but
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)]
> > Jamie
> > Date: 03 February 1997 13:30
 Tim, 
	with regards to your freezing problem, I once heard a story of someone who cargo strapped a 
calor gas heater in the back of his 88' and started it while he was having breakfast. This at least 
meant that he started out warm. On a more serious side have you fitted a radiator muff? Having 
recently discovered this wonderous invention I can seriously recommend them. One word of warning, 
don't drive fast with the front shut unless it is below about -5 degrees C otherwise you will 
rapidly voil up your radiator. Other fixes include installing an aditional heater from a SIIA or 
similar inside the passenger footwell, apparently it is also possible to rivet two SIII heaters 
together in the same box and conect the watersupply in series, providing double the heat exchange 
area.
Rory & Frosty

------------------------------

From: BDiAngelo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:57:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hello.  Just checking references here.  Does anyone know anything about
British Bulldog in Fall River, MA?  They import, fix and sell.  Any insight
is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance and good day to all.

Ben

------------------------------

From: Rory <u01rpfc@abdn.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: water in footwells
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 17:30:51 +0000 (GMT)

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 11:34:41 -0500 Mike Gaines 
<106220.1234@compuserve.com> wrote:

>   Different subject, water in footwells. this morning there was a

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Cheers,
> MikeG, Slll Lightweight `Wicked Wanda'.

Is there always water in your footwells? Do you have to frequently top up your radiator? I only ask 
as having had the unfortunate experience of finding water in my SIII footwell, I discovered that it 
was coming from a leaky heater matrix and flowing down the air ducts. This occured when the heater 
matrix suffered a catastrofic failure and emptied itself into the footwell in a mater of minutes, 
but I presume that a smaller leak would produc a simillar effect. 
Frosty

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 12:09:43 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Keeping Your Distance(pieces, that is)

sorry about the repost...I was tryingf to forward something to a 
friend...pressed the worng button...damn!

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 12:14:09 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: question/submission

>Hello.  Just checking references here.  Does anyone know anything about 
>British Bulldog in Fall River, MA?  They import, fix and sell.  Any insight 
>is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance and good day.

Bob Kelly has a IIa 88" with a Perkins Diesel that came from BB. Its a 
pretty truck indeed, but costly, and the engine needed a *slight* rebuild.
I believe Seth picked up a good bit of the tab on that, if not all of it. 
It came with alot of bits: winch, roof rack, bullbar, soft top, etc...You 
could talk to Bob but I think he's in Bosnia. He may be listening on his 
laptop though...you there?

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 12:23:44 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[3]: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

 

       >Does anyone have any good tips for changing 
>a flat tyre using only the High-Lift Jack and no assistance,  as I have 
>found it a very precarious operation

try chocking BOTH rear wheels. This helps prevents the truck from rolling 
sideways, since with an open diff one wheel has to spin back for the other 
to spin forward.
I usually put it in 4WD high with the hubs locked and chock both fronts to 
change a back wheel.
I have done repairs to the brakes with just the highlift when I am not 
going to be under the vehicle.
Make sure you loosen the lugnuts befroe you lift your Landy this way.
Its not the most secure setup but it isn't really that bad, I just wouldn't 
do anything that involved any serious torque or pounding.
Cheers
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 12:41:55 -0400
Subject: US tire co

>Hi,
>My own experience with The old US Royal tire co. was,
>The darn tires would have blowouts out the sidewalls (even my bicycle
tires) While having 90% of tread left.
>NO way would I buy any US Royals.
>Then they went through an update and changed to Uniroyal.
>I still wont use them, but they must be improved to stay around this long.
>Bob B

I'm running Uniroyal radials on my 109 right now - they've been over a bit
more than 25K miles with nary a problem.

Only difficulty I had was getting them to hold air on my old rims - the
valve stem areas were corroded and took a bit of grinding to clean up.

That's it - they work for me, and I've put more than a few off-road miles
on them.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 12:31:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Range Rover for Sale

I am considering selling my 83 RR, 4 dr., 4 speed. It needs some cosmetic
work (read new paint) but is pretty presentable as is. No rot in the body or
frame that I know off. Mechanically it is excellent, with practically every
thing having been replaced or reworked in the last 30K miles, such as
overhauled engine, Holley fuel injection (working great, but the old carbs
and manifold will be included), new clutch and slave cyl., rebuilt PAS, new
tie rod ends, stainless exhaust, new springs, Bilsteins, rebuilt brake hyd.,
swivel seals and hub seals, 80 AMP alt., elec. ign., A frame ball joint, and
so on. Steel RR wheels with Mich. 244 M+S, plus original alloys. Interior is
good. I am thinking about doing a Series project as a replacement. So I am
offering it to the List Dwellers first, at a lower price. Whats it worth? I
paid $9,500 for it in '94 and I have spent at least $8,000 since, but I am
looking for $12,500 or offers. Does this sound reasonable? If anyone wants
more details please e-mail me. If I cant get what I need for it Ill just keep
it, which is OK too. I ve owned this truck longer than any previous
"project". It is Number 44 in 23 years of Auto Madness. Time for Number 45?
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 13:10:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Your dead 2.6 Land Rover, RIP

On Sun, 2 Feb 1997, Bill McDowell (WJMcD@aol.com) wrote about his Land Rover
with the dead 2.6 engine.

Dear Bill:

I was once peripherally involved with the conversion of a 109 SW from a 2.6
six to 2.25 four.  This option is certainly possible.  It involves as much
work as any other engine swap.  Among the joys involved are welding new
motor mounts onto the frame.  Remember that the six was fitted with
different brakes.

Consider using the 3 liter engine from an old Rover sedan.  The 2.6 is a
de-stroked version of this engine which will fit without modifications and
will provide more power.  Do not hasten to dispose of the old lump, as you
may need parts from it.  By fitting the 3 liter with the carburetors from
the 2.6, you retain the ability to operate at extreme angles.  This option
leaves intact the originality of your Land Rover while at the same time
addressing the most frequent complaint (in the USA) of not enough power.
Rover did not build many NADA sixes and there may not be many left.

Paul Donohue
1965 LR Dormobile
Denver

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <S.Vels>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 19:29:34 +0000
Subject: Re: Firewall feet rust damage, gearbox-outing

> And if any of the danish subscribers read this - can this foot be bought
> in Denmark - any suggestions? Otherwise I'll just have to let the
> workshop cobble something together.

Williams: 8666 7677 fax: 8666 7977 

Midtjysk: 8662 2333 fax: 8662 7299

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 20:43:42 +0200
From: jros@argus.co.za (Jonathan Rosenthal)
Subject:  unsubscribe

 unsubscribe land-rover-owner jros@star.argus.co.za

-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jonathan  Rosenthal
| Industrial Reporter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| Tel: (011) 633-2638
| Fax: (011) 838-2693
-------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 20:11:51 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: That's it ! the aprons are off.

Uncle Roger fits my pique:

> In any case, my comment about LROA & Celeb owners was supposed to be a
> quickie comment to one of the LROA officers mostly meant in jest. 
> Thank goodness it wasn't my top secret Tiramisu recipe !

Right Sinasohn, you've asked for it now.

Tiramisu' di Chiara

 Difficolta': facile
 Tempo:       20 minuti
 Ingredienti: Mascarpone 500 g, 3 uova, Zucchero 100 g, Savoiardi, Caffe'

Un dolce pratico, veloce, ma di sicuro effetto. Sbattete bene i 3 rossi d'
uovo con lo zucchero, aggiungete il mascarpone, quello fresco, non quello
confezionato, e poi 2 bianchi d' uovo montati a neve. Inzuppate i savoiardi
nel caffe`, una moka da sei, allungato con un goccio di latte e foderate
con essi una teglia abbastanza grande. Versate la crema di mascarpone sopra
lo strato di savoiardi, spianatel bene spolverate il tutto con abbondante
cacao amaro. Mettete in frigorifero per un paio d' ore prima di servire.

LR content, substitute used engine oil for the Caffe'.. lo stesso .. Ecco qua !

Ci Vediamo,

Paul"Culinary blackmailer"W

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 20:27:58 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Tiramisery

Ok, I repent

I humbly apologise for my last post, but I was pushed beyond reasonable bounds.

I would like to say to Richard, keep the gearbox soap opera coming, I will have 
to replace my 2nd gear synchro when I get back :-(

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:32:10 -0400
Subject: Re: That's it ! the aprons are off.

You're forgiven if you repeat the recipe in English.....

     aj"Some of us LIKE to cook...but can it be done on the manifold?"r

------------------------------

From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:51:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Acid heads

In a message dated 03/02/97  16:23:30, you write:

<< does anyone know an actual working solution to the perrenial problems
posed by
 my vehicle's "heating" system. >>

Try giving up drugs and fitting a better heater.  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:04:43 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SI master cylinder

Ian Harper wanted to know:

>1. Can I get a seal replacement kit for this at a reasonable price?

AFAIK Dunsfold and John Craddock in the UK have seal kits. I would hone the 
cylinder while it's out.

>2. Will kits from another (more up-to-date) Master fit this one?
>3. Should I just chuck it and try to fit a 2 bolt CB (expensive, but I
>already have one.....) and just tap another bolt hole.

No idea about 2 and 3.
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:05:21 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Electronic rust gadget

Ivan wants to know if and how the electronic corrosion prevention item he 
saw advertised would work.

They all work in simple if unexpected ways. By promising to charge part of 
the car body electrically, these devices pull money out of the car owner's 
pocket or bank account - where it would just sit and get corroded over time 
- into the manufacturer's account, where it can be spent on liquor and 
women. However, the car owner gets ample experience from spending his or her 
money on crap like this. 

When I worked in the oil industry, btw, we protected our underground storage 
tanks with cathodic corrosion protection devices (these do work, partly 
because tanks are usually not moving through all kinds of microclimates, but 
sit underground in slowly varying levels of ground water, and partly because 
they are the price of a family car). Anyway, a new typist processed an 
order, which was duly signed and dispatched, for a "catholic corrosion 
protection device". When I found out, I called the supplier, but they told 
me that one order in four made that slight mistake.

Anyway - I would stay away from it, unless you plan to drive your car partly 
submerged in salt water all the time, and then you should just get a couple 
of zinc anodes and fix those to the steel parts.
Hope they don't sue me!

Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:05:06 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Stripping paint, rivetting

"Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> asked about stripping paint off 
galvanized parts and rivets.

Here's what I got when I asked the same question:

>From: Stephen Firth <steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk>
>Subject: Re: Galvanized parts, painted-over, cleaning of, methods for

>At 14:10 13/01/96, lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
>>If the paint in the areas next to the galvanized parts should be damaged, it
>>would not matter since I plan to have it re-painted anyway (the original RAF
>>blue with grey wheels, probably).

>In that case I would recommend a chemical stripper. Avoid those which use 
acid or strong alkali to strip paint, especially those "blanket strippers" 
which use sodium hydroxide. These will also severely corrode zinc and 
aluminium and will damage bodywork and galvanised parts. Look for strippers 
which use methylene dichloride which is a very unpleasant chemical, must 
only be used in well-ventilated conditions but does not attack the bodywork.
>The stripper should be a water-soluble preparation, some need to be removed 
>>If the paint in the areas next to the galvanized parts should be damaged, it
with a solvent such as white spirit (purified kerosene) and are unpleasant 
to use to cover a large area. Water soluble ones can be removed with a hose 
or a trip to a jet car wash.
>Even the best strippers leave you a lot of work to do with a stiff-bristled 
>>If the paint in the areas next to the galvanized parts should be damaged, it
brush. I would be careful of using wire wool on a Land Rover since the fine 
metal particles it leaves behind cause electrolytic corrosion "hot spots." 
Rubbing down is best done with aluminium oxide abrasive paper. If using a 
wire brush, stainless steel is better than the cheaper brushes which are 
generally available.
>----------------------------------------------
>Subject: Re: Stripping Galvanized Parts
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>To: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>I second the chemical method for removing paint from galvanized parts. I 
have successfully used a Methyl Chloride based product designed for aircraft 
paint stripping called "Aircraft Remover" that I bought several years ago. I 
don't know who the manufacturer is because that portion of the gallon can 
has been stripped! I am sure that any aircraft maintenance facility could 
direct you to a source; the problem might be getting a small quantity. (I 
happen to work at an airport, but my friendly connection retired). The stuff 
stinks like ammonia and burns exposed skin, but is completely safe on 
aluminum. One of my parts Series vehicles had a front bumper with overriders 
that was painted black, so I experimented with this stuff to see if it would 
work without discoloring, etc. It worked just fine just as on aluminum, and 
the galvanizing has stayed good looking for a year now. I just brushed on a 
coat, waiting about five minutes (at 80 degrees F), hosed it with a garden 
hose, and repeated this two times to get everything off with nothing but 
light scraping with a plastic squeegee and a brass brush for inside corners. 
(The idea of a stainless steel brush might work, but I suspect that it might 
scratch the surface more.) I have also used it on tropical roofs and ferrous 
metals with no damaging effects. It might even be a good furniture stripper! 
The small airports that service private aircraft might be the best sources 
of information. It might also be available through autobody supply places 
given that there are more aluminum vehicles now. It was about $30 US a 
gallon, as I recall.
>Walter Pokines
>Tipp City, Ohio, USA
>-------------------------------------------------
>>blue with grey wheels, probably).

I found that Eastwood's sell such a stripper.

The round-headed aluminum rivets and the tool you would need are sold by 
Wadsworth Panels
1 Steele Lane
Barkisland 
Halifax
West Yorkshire
Fax ++44 1422 822200

Fifty rivets are 3 ukp, the tool is 5.50 ukp, plus p+p. You need flat rivets 
too for most cappings. 
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 20:36:38 GMT

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 14:49:16 +0100 (MET), you wrote:

. . . .
>Why not use Ians setup?
>           air pipe
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Both tanks will always have the same level and you will just need
>one gauge. The connection pipe for the fuel should be big enough
>to allow the levels to egalize fast while filling.

Keep in mind that if the line from one the tanks becomes blocked you
may not know it until you run out of fuel.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 15:42:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Electronic rust gadget

On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 lopezba@atnet.at wrote:

> Ivan wants to know if and how the electronic corrosion prevention item he 
> saw advertised would work.

	I am continuly amazed that this keeps coming up...  Of course, if
	you keep your LR deep in mud all the time, this might work too!
	However, parking afterwards in salt water may be hard on other
	steel bits...

	BTW, off topic, anyone have a copy of volume one, Stanley Gibbons 
	(Victorian).  Need production info, etc. on SG 43-44, plate 87

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 13:47:55 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Harmonic balancer(was:We Survived!!)

Greetings Keith, from a fellow deezil driver: The 2.25 diesel engine came 
with a harmonic balancer on the front pulley assembly. Perhaps the one on 
yours has failed? It has a rubber center that will eventually fail, allowing 
the pulley to freewheel, thereby spinning the waterpump and dynamo more 
slowly, and only by virtue of residual friction inside the device. The two 
I've had fail did so with a short-lived cloud of burning rubber smoke. Once 
the smoke had cleared, there was absolutely no visible indication of 
anything wrong. The engine would run hot, limiting my top speed to about 55 
except for short "bursts" up to it's absolute top speed of 62. The lights 
would dim at idle, and the battery would not fully charge (it has a 65amp 
alternator). The belt was tight. I accidently discovered the freewheeling 
pulley when watching the engine idle; the fan seemed to turn too slowly for 
the noises the engine made, and did not speed up when the engine was rev'ed. 
It could not be casually turned by hand, with the belt tight. You can 
replace it with a petrol engine pulley, but be careful not to drop the 
woodruff key into the oil pan (it can be recovered with a skinny magnet on 
the end of a handle). I don't know the long-term effects of leaving the 
balancer off, but haven't found a source for replacement rubber inserts, 
either. (anybody have any suggestions?)
JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 12:50:33 -0800 (PST)
From: bfinley@awinc.com (BRYCEFINLEY)
Subject: how to repair a gas tank?

The gas tank on my '67 109" needs repair or replacement. It has numerous
pin holes from rust where the skid plate goes.

Does anyone know what options there are for fixing this, or should it just
be replaced?

A shop cleaned out the tank, took off the skid plate, cleaned the outside
with acid, and pressurized it, and found all those pin holes (either from
dirt trapped between the bottom of the tank and skid plate, or rusting from
inside tank.

Shop said options are soldering all the holes, or coating the entire tank
inside and out with a process called Re-nu (up here in Canada, anyway).

Bryce Finley
idea@bigfoot.com
Christina Lake, British Columbia, Canada

(LR '67 Ser IIA 109" NADA 6)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 21:57:37 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Clutch cylinder in gearbox SIII

Hi all,

when i get my recon. gearbox back (ok I chickened out and got the
workshop to do it, as I'm busy (fixing the frame while the gearbox is
out) I will have to reinstall the clutch cylinder.

This is the later model, two holes/nuts, with a rubber diaphragm
covering the cylinder where it enters the box mount - the clutch piston
goes through this rubber thingy.

Is this rubber thingy critical? should it be changed whilst I have the
box of, or is it only to keep dust/dirt out? (It seems clean and
unbroken, but i haven't pulled at it (yet) so i don't know what's behind
it - something tells me I don't want to find out!

any advice welcome
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 12:59:04 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: how to repair a gas tank?

BRYCEFINLEY wrote:
> snip
> Does anyone know what options there are for fixing this, or should it just
> be replaced?

There are a few fixit options such as the one you describe but realistically
the reliability and cost is such that you're better off just replacing it.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 16:11:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: looking for Frank Parks and others

would Frank Park(s), John Tackley, and Fred Herman please contact me.

Thanks
Dave Bobeck
dbobeck@ushmm.org

------------------------------

From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 16:41:32 -0500

Adrian writes :-
1. Clutch - my clutch plate (2 yrs old) seems solid and unworn - well
clear of the rivets yet. fibre plates are 8 to 8.5mm thick - faceplates
are clean and dry, no markings or scorings - should I change the clutch
or fibre plate while its out or should I let it go in again?

  If you are not overawed at the prospect of taking out the box in a couple
of years os so re use it 

2. How can you tell which side of the clutch is towards motor, and which
side towards gearbox - a friend helping me "thinks it was this way
round" but just to be sure...
 decent clutch discs are normally marked " flywheel side :
 If no markings are present then look for the side on which the central boss
protrudes LEAST, this side is TOWARDS the flwheel. or alternativly the side
with the longest boss   protrusion is outwqards, or towqards the gearbox.

 Regards  Bill
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: how to repair a gas tank?
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 08:27:20 +1030

Scotch/3M make a great product called 772 Fuel Resistant Adhesive which is
a fuel resistant glue/coating.
I've used this stuff on 3 petrol tanks so far, and one repair is as old as
6 years with no ill effects, and still no further leaks.
What you do is to clean out the inside of the tank and make sure it is
totally dry. Then put in half a dozen nuts and bolts and shake the s**t out
of the tank to dislodge any rust or flake internally. Clean the tank out
again with metho or similar, and then dry completely. Pour in a full 500ml
can of the 3M glue (the smell of the glue makes this a very enjoyable
experience!!!) and move the tank around so that all the surfaces are coated
with it. If you have any large leaks, leave the tank sitting with that area
at the lowest so that more glue runs toward that spot. After its all
coated, pour out the remaining liquid and let the tank sit somewhere warm
for the glue to dry. You can put a hairdryer in the tank to help it also if
the weather is a little cool. I left mine outside in the sun for 2 weeks to
make real sure the stuff was dry, and as I said, all three tanks I've done
are fine, and the coating has not gone soft, or dissolved.
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: BRYCEFINLEY <bfinley@awinc.com>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> pin holes from rust where the skid plate goes.
> Does anyone know what options there are for fixing this, or should it
just
> be replaced?
> A shop cleaned out the tank, took off the skid plate, cleaned the outside
> with acid, and pressurized it, and found all those pin holes (either from
> dirt trapped between the bottom of the tank and skid plate, or rusting

from
> inside tank.
> Shop said options are soldering all the holes, or coating the entire tank
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Christina Lake, British Columbia, Canada
> (LR '67 Ser IIA 109" NADA 6)

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: got my tires.. thx for advice..
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 15:45:44 -0800

That is a great price!  Would cost over $20/tire more in the SF Bay Area.

----------
> From: ben@bell-labs.com
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> or so extra, shipping maybe $5 ea more.  Man, this truck is bleedin' me
> dry!

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 19:53:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The Ties (and Crankshafts) That Bind

Sorry to hear about the catastrophic failure of your 2.6 :-( 

When I sell a 6 cyl I explain to the prospective purchasers " That I consider
the rod bearings to be a WEAR item and that the should be replaced every 30k
or so....."  :-)

Choice 1
2.6's are cheep. I know of several that you can pick up for little more than
the transport costs. Rebuild the bottom end and bob's yer uncle. Putting in
another 2.6 is without a doubt the cheapest way to go. For those that don't
know the EURO 2.6 is a much better behaved motor than the NADA 2.6 I have had
both ( at the same time ) and so I was able to compare them. 

Choice 2 
Put in a rover 4 cyl. This only SOUNDS easy. You have to consider this as
difficult as any of the other engine conversions. It would not be too bad if
you have a 4 cyl parts truck. But LOTS of stuff is different. Bellhousing,
motor mounts, etc. ALSO consider all those folks complaining about how slow
their 4 cyl rovers are. 

Choice 3 
Convert. 
The famous 6 cyl Chevy.  This has LOTS to recommend it. Everything has been
done before, Motor parts are very cheep, I know where you can get the whole
works for $1300, AND with the 6 cly truck to start with I don't think you
have to pull out the cutting torches at all. 

Choice 3b 
The 3 ltr "Mercruser" outdrive optional :-). The few of these I have seen
seem to work great.

Choice 3c 
How about a 6.2 ltr chevy DIESEL. The kit is 700 ukp + shipping from the UK.
+ Motor  :-) You would need a Salisbury of course. If you want to go with
this one I would be happy to come down and help you bolt it all in :-) I have
always wanted to put a 6.2 in a Marshals of Cambridge military ambulance. 

Putting in a V8 is a major undertaking, less so with a RHD truck but
still.........

Consider what you are planning to do with the truck when you are done and
whether you will ever recoup your investment. Major re-engineering projects
NEVER pay. This cannot be stressed enough, I know I have been down this road
before.

Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 17:14:21 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: tires..

At 02:01 PM 1/31/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Dunlop which makes one called the Radial Rover RT.  I think it's a bit more
>aggressive than the CTD (and certainly more aggressive than the Trac Edge).
>The Tire Rack (advertises in Road & Track and Car & Driver and has a web
>site (I don't have the URL handy) carries these at a very reasonable price.

I have:

<http://www.dunloptire.com/main.html> for Dunlop and
<http://tirerack.com/> for the Tire Rack.

I have Radial Rovers (the least aggressive model, I think) on my 109.  I've
been really happy with them as they're really quiet on-road, and reasonably
good off.  Not so good in snow, though.  If you want more aggressive, there
are other versions.  

The Cooper Discoverers were written up in the Spring '93 Aluminum Workhorse;
A few folks hereabouts have them too.  (Morgan Hannaford comes to mind.)  

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 18:16:36
From: Tony Bonanno <tbonanno@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: NATO Jerican Holder

Does anyone know of a source for a jerican holder designed for the NATO
type cans?  I'd like to find something to mount on my 88 IIA for
backcountry use.

Also, any good sources for spare NATO jericans ??

Thanks!

Tony Bonanno, Santa Fe, NM

Series IIA 88 Petrol - original owner - a rolling restoration since new...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 20:17:12 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Problems with the Major

Has anyone else had problems with the Major the last few days.  I seemed 
to have been bounced off for some reason.  Hope it wasn't something I 
said :-)  Dixon said there have been some 200 messages in the past two 
days so I can only think there was some kind of problem.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Feb 1997 21:29:54 -0800
From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Towing Expectations

My oldest son and I are still trying to find the "right" Series to 
purchase for a restoration project. One of the lingering questions, is 
what kind of towing expectations can we expect from the 2.25 gas or 
diesel engine. Living on a farm, I expect the thing to be more than a 
pretty face.  What towing weight and gross axle weight is the II and III 
series rated. Something tells me that the chassis/axle rating will exceed 
the "oompfa" of the engines.

Your thoughts or experiences would be helpful.

Jon Haskell
Indianapolis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:49:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Rao <ncavwc@nicom.com>

Thanks for the input on the distributor.  This may be the source of some
strange noises I've been trying to track down.

BTW who is the owner of the 109 regular with MAINE tags that was sitting in
a repair shop on 8th street S.E., Washington D.C., are you on the list?
Always nice to see another series vehicle in the neighborhood.

Dan Rao
'63 109 Station Wagon 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 18:49:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: Block Hole Repairs

	As a once welder... mind you I never had the chance to do it 
personally but I did see it done... Cast iron can be repaired using a 
nickel rod.  It is usually done by pre-heating the piece to be welded, 
this can be done by carefully "cooking" the block over a coleman stove, 
to prevent (or at least minimise) intense local heat warping and using a 
small tip on a Victor-type gas welder or even better a henrob or dillon 
torch which really minimises the heat patch and carefully puddle in the 
nickel into the crack.  The cast iron acts as a heat sink which is why 
you need to preheat it also.  All the usual caveats apply...Kids, do this 
only under adult supervision, blah blah blah, yadda yadda yadda.

Michael Roberts
Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 1997 21:41:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Fwd: Range Rover for Sale, more info

Some additional information concerning the subject RR
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: Range Rover for Sale
Date:    97-02-03 17:27:07 EST
From:    AKBLACKLEY

Thanks for your reply.
1. I am located in the Greater Cleveland, Ohio area. Ph. (216) 285-7032 home
(216) 449-4005 work
2. I bought the truck in 94 with 105 k miles showing. I believe I am the
third owner. first owner bought it in Italy, as LHD carbed Detox model &
brought it to the New York, New York area where it was offically imported and
brought up to US DOT standards. Second owner was anothe Italian, a colleague.
I never met either, but bought it through a broker near Hyde Park. I have
only my own receipts. 
3. The frame is excellent. I know from intimate acquaintance with the under
side of this truck. Seriously, I have cleaned and painted some areas, most
notably the rear cross member, but most of the original black polyester paint
is intact. These frames received a galv. dip at the factory. The outer frame
sills are also excellent. I had the drivers floor repaired by a local
restoration shop- all new metal continuously welded. 
Price is negotiable. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 0:06:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: RE: how to repair a gas tank?

I had a local welder friend build a replacement for my 88".  It
cost me $150, is an exact replica of the original, is made of twice
as thick metal as the original (plus and 1/8" extra plating on the
bottom) and if completely lined so that it will never rot again. 
I guess what I am saying is you might check with your local welder
shops...Good luck!!!!

Stuart H. Moore
1961 series II 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:18:39 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re:Fuel/Water temp guages 

Thanks John. 

I found that out the hard way earlier this year in central Australia. We had
just done 2,000 km of VERY CORRUGATED dirt tracks when the fuel and temp
guages started to read higher than normal. The temp guage was the most
alarming being well into the red. A bit of detective work found the problem
to be just the same as you described. Tightening the knurled nut behind the
speedo where the earth points come together fixed the problem. 

Regards,
Phil Carkagis
S III 109 5 door
101 FC "Blossom" ('cause it's such a delicate little thing) 

>Just for future reference, if the ground for those two guages is bad, they
>will tend to read high. Thought I was about to fry my 2.25 a few years back
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>problem, anyway)
>John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:18:46 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Studded tyres.

G'day all.

A friend of mine with a Stage I asked me recently about the availability of
studded tyres for winter driving.

He keeps his LR at a ski lodge in the ski-fields in Victoria (yes we do have
snow fields and people do ski on them in Australia). He wanted to know if
you can get studded tyres for standard rims (5.5 x16?)

Does anyone have any experience with these and are they readily available in
the US?

Regards,
Phil Carkagis
S III 109 5 door
101 FC

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 02:35:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Cracked In the Head

Lulubelle's out on the west coast (Oregon) down with a cracked head.  I've
got all the head rebuild parts, but without a head to put them on (the
diagnosis came in from the machine shop today).  She's a IIa.

Does anyone out there  have a spare head they'd like to sell?  Rebuildable is
fine, rebuilt is better.  Rovers North has rebuildables, but they're a coast
away.

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 00:50:27 -0700
From: jlauff61@cybertrails.com (Jason Lauffer)
Subject: rover for sale

For Sale
1972 Land Rover type II
Excellent running condition.
Engine/trans rebuilt 18 months ago.
Has (Fairy) overdrive
New beige Imaron paint.
Two sets of over sized tires on rims
one set is brand new
This is a good project Rover.Needs Cosmetic work.
$ 2,000 obo may consider part out. Sedona,AZ

------------------------------

From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 08:01:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Gastank Engineering Exercise #1A

On  3 Feb 97, Gerald wrote:

> >Why not use Ians setup?

> >Both tanks will always have the same level and you will just need
> >one gauge. The connection pipe for the fuel should be big enough to
> >allow the levels to egalize fast while filling.

> Keep in mind that if the line from one the tanks becomes blocked you
> may not know it until you run out of fuel.
If the fuel-feed becomes blocked, you won't know until you run out of 
fuel...

If the bottom pipe is of sufficient diameter (say 2 inch internal) 
and it's not right down at the bottom (say .5" up) the sediment will 
stay in the bottom of the tanks, and not settle in the pipe.  mind 
you, every time you fill up, you will waft any sediment from the pipe 
into the second tank.....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 00:02:42 -0800
From: Jon Callas <jon@worldbenders.com>
Subject: A Young Fart

Arjun S. Grover, whose web page contains not only a picture of his dream
car, a Defender 90, but also a CGI to give you a countdown until his 18th
birthday.

<http://nauticom.net/www/grover/Index2.htm>

Incidentally, I am presently 444 times as old as my D90SW. That's a nice
number. Fellow mathematicians, when told that I am a prime number of years
old (and old enough to vote), can deduce how old my Defender is.

	Jon

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Electronic rust gadget
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 22:39:00 EST

Iwan Vosloo wrote:
>I recently saw an advert for an electronic gadget that's supposed to
>protect a car from rust.  Does anyone know of such a thing / have any
>experience with it?  I would love to know if and how it works.

 I saw one reviewed in the Australian magazine "Overlander" a couple of 
years ago.  I can probably chase the article down and fax it to you if you 
like.  The device is listed as a spare part by several of the major Japanese 
car manufacturers.  The article was complimentary.

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

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