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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Administrator_at_DTT.NZ.WELLINGTON@ccmailg2.deloitte.co.nz
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 01:11:06 NZT

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 07:32:56 -500
Subject: Atlantic British Lamps

I noticed from Atlantic British the sale of a turn-signal/tail light set
(8 lamps) for $120US.  They do not mention what Series these fits.
Can someone fill me in?  Do these mix and match with lamps used 
on the 60s Series vehicles?  The current Defender as well?
Mark  

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 07:48:27 -500
Subject: painting

Mark Gelhausen asked about 'rolling' aluminum panels.
Many years ago, early sixties, my dad purchased an 19' twin hulled 
"Maritime" aluminum boat( now defunct).  I can still remember the
 demo at the boat show.  A piece of the hull material which was 
1/4" welded aluminum, is 'blasted' with a .38 cal. pistol. 
 Result was a small dent in the alum, but no hole.  Guess my dad was sold.
Anyway, my brother and I repainted the boat about 15 years ago, using 
small 3" trim rollers, with very short nap, using automotive enamel.  
Simply sanded the old factory paint, primed, and rolled.  Result was 
slightly 'orange peeled' but otherwise looked sprayed...  and its still 
on the boat today.  What a great boat this has been.  Now sports a 
175 horse OB.  Eventually will pass down thru the generations, no 
doubt, as its as good today as it was new.  
Hey, I guess this would make the Maritime the 'Land Rover' of  aluminum boats.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 07:44:02 -500
Subject: Practical Classics

The Practical Classics LR Series I resto of the late 80s finally got 
me interested in LRs.  You burst my bubble!  You mean their "rolling 
resto" concept is dead?  Frame patch: no problem, just a couple of 
hours after work, ready to commute next AM.  Engine swap: that'll be 
1.5 hours tops (including beer breaks), a few bucks, only two wrenches
needed, no dirty shirt or busted knuckles.  They have a very short 
commute, alternate transpo and/or drive it missing a lot of pieces.
I was set back by the erector set ability of the vehicle.  Mark    

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Dogs Breakfast
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:03:00 -0500

Mark Gehlhausen asks "OK Trevor, Now please tell me, what is a "dog's
breakfast"?"

The exact origin of the saying is lost in the anals of times, but it
refers to a mess. The canine reference probably  comes from the animals
propensity to devour the previous evenings meal which had been
regurgitated before retiring.

"And how many slabs is it worth?"
Very few I would imagine.

LR Content: The design of the front bulkhead with it's multitude of
separate sheetmetal stampings spot welded into a whole, the grill, the
two headlights, wiring, radiator and various other small fittings and
brackets is truly a "dogs breakfast".

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:07:54 -500
Subject: Radio Fitment/Fusing

I am considering fusing my friends LR black/red instrument panel 
connectors.  The plastic bits are a tad melted, indicating too much 
past current.  What rating can someone recommend?

Also, I am wiring a radio to fit this connector.  It likes to see 8.75V
at 500mA.  I have hit upon the idea of placing a Si diode in each 
line, dropping the nominal +14V by 1.4V and idiot proofing the
design from color-blind users.  Are the plug connectors available?  
I am considering splicing to the LR portable lamp, but it is OEM and I 
cringe at the thought of going to Singapore for another.  

I appreciate your tolerance of this non-original LR radio stuff, but you
guys know best, having been there before.  Mark               

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Anyone need a recipe for Tiramisu ?
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:19:00 -0500

This sounds like part of the instructions for lifting and slewing with a
high lift jack when a door mounted spare is fitted.
"As the vehicle is pushed sideways off the jack be sure to step back so
the tiramisu"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 8:20:24 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel glow plugs...!

There's no excuse for not getting a diesel started! Cripes, the thing 
will roll start for heaven's sake!
Test the glow plugs in the vehicle by removing the wires to each plug one 
by one. Using a circuit tester, check each for continuity. If you get no 
reading, the plug is bad. 
Additionally, be sure that the battery terminals are free from corrosion 
and that you have good contact and ground. Also be sure the starter motor 
is well grounded to the frame.
If glow plug replacement fails to cure your hard starting troubles,then 
either your timing is off or you'll have to look into the possibility of 
clogged injectors. This is a chore that is best left to professional 
diesel mechanics, as they have all the special testing and cleaning 
equipment to do the job properly. I may prove that replacement is more 
cost effective than overhaul.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:28:10 -500
Subject: seats

Saw yer post re: the CRX seats.  
How much did you pay for 'em?
Within a mile of my house is a Honda recycler.  He has a couple of 
containers of Honda seats.  I stopped in last weekend to explore the 
option of CRX seats.  I discovered that they are marginally wide at 
about 22" if I remember correctly, but should not keep the doors from 
closing.  The seat cushions are about the same length as the 
originals, so should fit fine other than the width and be quite 
comfortable too. 
The obvious disadvantage to me is easy removal, ala the OEM 
seat cushions, and the COST.  This guy wanted $150 ea. for dusty, 
old, but not torn or 'bloody', CRX seats.  He would sell civic or 
accord seats for $50 ea., but these are too wide for a Series.
I decided to wait for some Hi-back Trackers at about the same price, 
but I would be most interested in your experiences.
BTW, I bought a bunch of parts from you at the Rally this summer.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:36:10 -0400
Subject: Re: More Ammeter Help Needed

I don't have a schematic in front of me, but I would stick a voltmeter on
the 12-volt line running from the ignition switch to the solenoid. If you
turn the key and the line shows power, then the solenoid has gone south or
the wire is not shipping through enough current to actuate the solenoid.

I'd jump the solenoid tothe battery or the battery cable lug with a bit of
wire - if it turns, you know it's the wiring or the starter switch. If not,
this points to the solenoid too.

If you've got everything back but starting, this sounds like you've got a
bad contact either at the fuse or solenoid end of the ignition wire.

                         aj"Should be simple to track - get out the print"r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 8:36:18 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Liz's Land Rovers....

Saw a piece on the Windsors yesterday on PBS. During this program were 
several cuts from a documentary called "the Royal Family" which was 
obviously done back in the sixties sometime as propaganda to make them 
seem more human. Anyway, there was a shot that showed Queen Elizabeth at 
one of her castles driving (!) a S2A 109 Station Wagon (diesel ?) with 
Bonnie Prince Charlie in the passenger seat. Later in the program 
Margaret was seen at the wheel of a 110 pickup with County stripes. Also 
was a shot of the family at some horsey event scrubbing around in the cab 
of an 88 Wagon (looking for a tiara, no doubt). While I'm on the subject, 
there was a news piece about three weeks ago that showed the Queen riding 
in the "parade Rover", y'know, the 88 with all the chromey bits on it. My 
wife thinks I am a nut for jumping up and down when these things go by on 
the video screen.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 08:46:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio Fitment/Fusing

Radio bits....wouldn't know about those, Heaven forbid.....8*)

First off, why 8.75? If you're feeding a QRP transciever or the like,
personally I'd use one of the 78XX regulators to give it a constant
voltage, as the Landy's gonna give it anywhere from 12 to 14 volts
depending on loads, lighting and the like. The is pretty rough unregulated
unfitered stuff, nad could give you some seriously screwy CW tones on
transmit.

There are also regulators available that have adjustable voltage set with a
resistor value - quick, cheap and simple.

Re: fusing and protecting the plug-ins:

15 Amps sounds about right to me, and make the fuseholder accessible from
the outside of the panel because sure as rust eats LR frames, you're gonna
blow the fuse JUST WHEN you need it the most. better yet, there are small
unobtrusive circuit breakers available that can be fitted - this way you
don't have to dick about with fuses.

Diode protection's a great idea - design it into the power supply of the
device if you can. I find your diode-string idea wrks, having used it more
than once, but I put the diodes in series and insulated them with shrink
tubing.

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 08:41:21 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: hand throttles

>As the throttle was installed at Solihull, I don't have any advice for 
>putting it on.  But looking at the mechanism, it would appear to be a 
>very straightforward job if this particular hand throttle kit is still 
>available.

They are, and quite a bargain I might add, for US folks. SIII Hand Throttles are
25 dollars for the complete Genuine Kit, I got one and it comes with a mess o 
parts and nice instructions which I of course promptly lost.
Anybody got these?
Later
DaveB.

C. Marin Faure
Seattle, WA
  (original owner)
  1973 LR Series III-88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 14:11:42 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel glow plugs...!

>Test the glow plugs in the vehicle by removing the wires to each plug one
>by one. Using a circuit tester, check each for continuity. If you get no
>reading, the plug is bad.

Got to take issue with you over this,Bill.You can use a circuit
tester,or meter until you're blue in the face.Chances are that
all it will tell you is that a)*All* the plugs are OK,and,b)The
meter works.Most of the time the plugs will register a complete
circuit,*but it wont take the current*.Better by far to use a
test bulb.
I reckon the series wired plugs are an abortion anyway.
Better IMO to chuck 'em out,and make a fresh start(pun not
intended).Unless,of course,you are a purist,and fancy living
with these quirks.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Hand Throttles
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:08:00 -0500

Another source of Hand Throttles is your local friendly auto-recycler.
Get the vacuum actuator and valves for a cruise control and fit it using
electonics with an engine speed instead of a road speed sensor. This has
the advantage over a hand throttle that it controls the speed rather
than the throttle opening and is therefore a governer that will adjust
for changes in load. 

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:09:29 -500
Subject: V Regs/QRP/More

Alan Richer,
I have mislaid your address.  The 8.75V was chosen by the equipment.  
You are right, I could/should/would choose a 9V 3 terminal reguator 
and be done with it.  I think all I have around at the moment are 12 
and 15V 78xxers.  QRP you say?  Do you fab deadbug circuits?

Probably best to respond direct offline.  LR content and such, but 
LRs can resemble deadbugs, no?
Mark

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:21:23 +0000
Subject: Single-declutching........

Since all the stuff about the little pushy lever thingy wearing holes 
in teh little release lever thingy, I have started to change gear by 
my usual double declutching sort of way, but by snicking it out of 
gear clutchless and then using teh clutch only to put it into the new 
gear.

Can anyone think what bits of gearbox I might be decimating by doing 
this?

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:29:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Diesel Glow plugs

>set of originals.When you bear in mind there's probably only
>one of your heater plugs currently duff,but being series wired
>they work on the Union principle(One out,all out),they are worth it
>for that alone.Plus,the element is a "bulb",rather than a squidgy bit
>of bent wire,and therefore much more robust.I've got 'em,and Bloody

So, couldnt you get yourself going by bypassing teh duff one WITH a 
bit of bent wire???????

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:02:44 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel Glow plugs

So, couldnt you get yourself going by bypassing teh duff one WITH a
>bit of bent wire???????
Possibly,if the remaining three would stand the increased voltage.
Of course,thats *after* you've fiddled about finding which one is
duff,and put them all back in again.......
Better to either:
Keep a spare plug,
or,Bin 'em and replace with parallel wired ones(Like yours,Andy:-))

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 09:57:23 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)

  I have had a similar problem for over a year now.  Mine gets water in 
(also somewhere through the firewall) which then drips right onto my 
(clutch) foot. 

Since this is on a Series III, I suspect it is the same problem as the one 
I had. The hinge bolt that passes through the windscreen has no way of 
sealing, so the water just creeps in around the the threads. Also this bolt 
gets loose after awhile which makes it worse. Unfortunately, you must fold 
the windscreen forward to access the nut on the inside if you want to 
tighten it.  Mine already had some old silicone around it, and leaked every 
time without fail. I put some new silicone in and now it is fine. Now just 
to get that windscreen to bulkhead seal put on the right way, and maybe my 
clutch pedal wont be so slippery when its freezing outside.

Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:03:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Yeah Dixon

On Fri, 24 Jan 1997 DONOHUEPE@aol.com wrote:

> Do you hang the MiniCooperS like a lifeboat from davits on the back of your
> Land Rover?  With two British cars, at least one of them ought to be working
> most of the time (unless you forget the toolkit).

	Nope, from the davits of Dale's Range Rover.  The springs, front 
	and aft pitching, general loud harsh ride of a 109 is more like
	that of a speed boat bouncing of the top of the waves.  Don't
	need a life boat for that kind of a ride.  Now, Dale's '88
	Rangie Plushmobile<tm> has the rolling characteristics of a
	large, wallowing unseaworthy vessel, so a life boat seems to be 
	more in place with the imagery!  Always likes chromed davits with
	opera lights for that added safety touch!  :-)

	Rgds...

	<Argh, maties, batten down the bonnet, there goes a fat Rangie
	galleon.  Haul up the skull & crossbones from the tailpipe (Non-EPA
	approved), prepare to board!  No doubt some wrenching today!)

------------------------------

From: "Mike Foster" <mfoster@mail.chromalloy.com>
Subject: RE: Installation of Oil Pressure Gauge on D90
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 07:33:27 -0800

I have installed VDO oil pressure, clock, and volt meter gauges on my 94
D90.  I mounted the new oil pressure sending unit on the housing next to
the original oil pressure sender.  There is another opening plugged off
next to the one in use.  The thread size for both openings is 1/2 20, and
you can change the location of the original unit if you have a clearance
problem with the lines to the oil cooler.  The problem is that every
aftermarket oil pressure sending unit I could find had tapered pipe
threads, with 1/8 27 being the most common.  I was not able to find any
ready made adapters with the proper thread sizes.  I ended up purchasing a
couple of oil pan drain plugs size 1/2 20 and then drilling and tapping the
centers to 1/8 27.  The only good thing is that you can buy everything you
need at an auto parts store.  The drain plugs were a buck or so each, and a
tap was less than $10.

By the way, the center panel on a D90 (that houses the clock, lighter, and
flasher switch) cover three holes that are the correct size for mounting
round 2 1/8 gauges.  VDO night design gauges have black faces with white
pointers that almost perfectly match the factory gauges on a 94 D90.  The
only reason that they are not a perfect match is that the illumination
works properly so that you can see them at night!

Feel free to contact me directly if you would like more details on the
installation.

Good Luck!

Mike Foster
Carson City, NV
94 D90

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 07:24:16 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Defroster Ducts & HTML

At  2:34 PM 1/26/97 -0800, Chris Dow wrote:

>When I bought my ('65 and therefore 'early') IIA, it didn't have
>dimister/defogger/defroster hoses from the air dispersal unit to the
;dimister vents on the windscreen frame.  I went to NAPA today and got
>some hoses (part # 815-1002 if you're interested.  Five feet is
;sufficient).  I have the rectangular dimisters that mount above the
>wiper motors, and there was nothing at all between the dispersal unit
>and them.
;
>I went to install the hoses, and noticed that there was only one hole in
>the top part of the dash (immediately below the windscreen).  There are
;two hoses in the area that would be a glove compartment if I had one.
>I ended up going through the bottom and around the top, so one hose
;looks correct, but the other does not.
;
Chris, I grabbed a lantern and went out and looked at the hoses on my car.
My car has a Kodiak heater.  The heater vent has two holes for heater
vents.  I have the rectangular demisters mounted at the wiper motors.

There are two seperate holes, one for each tube, the lower rightmost hole
is 14 inches edge to outer edge of panel bracket.  the edge to edge
distance  between holes is 1/2 inch.  I couldn't varify this but the lower
holes appear to be oval.  The hoses pass through at an angle.  The upper
right most hole is 9-1/2 inches from edge to outside edge of the panel
bracket.  The hole edge spacing is 2 inches.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:38:53 -0400
Subject: Re: seats

50-150 for Honda seats?

WhattheHell is this guy smoking?

Round here, the local self-dismantler gets $25/each for seats. I paid that
princely sum for a pair of Volvo leather buckets in like-new condition.

I pulled 'em myself, of course, so as to get the rails and the rest. The
fit nicely too, just a bit high...

                    aj"Find another junkyard!"r

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jan 1997 10:56:29 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: None

Floris Houniet wrote: 

You what? How did you sandblast it? Do you have a personal sandblasting
kit?
If so, are they expensive?

A 5 hp compressor and a Campbell-Hausfeld sandblast gun (only 14USD!) are all
that you
need - plus a lot of duct tape and a few tarps to keep sand from getting into
*everything*.  I recommend buying an in-line water remover, otherwise the line
will clog every 30 seconds with moist sand.   Very frustrating.   The tool is
cheap, but it does a very nice job.  

If you'd like Campbell-Hausfeld's telephone number, please send me a message
off-line.  I can look it up tonight.

Jeff Jackson
LT_J_Jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu
73 SIII 88" HT 
Waterford, CT  

------------------------------

From: finchm@sky2.bskyb.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:12:22 +0000
Subject:  L/WT 30th Anniversary

     1997 is the official 30th anniversary of the lightweight landrover.
Being an active member of the Lightweight club, this is an appeal to all
Lightweight owners around the world and to anybody who knows somebody with=20=
a
Lightweight.

     We are trying to find the last ever Lightweight produced. If you have
it or know where it is please E-mail me. Also if you are planning or have
any ideas to celebrate the anniversary let me know.

     If you are a Lightweight owner you must come to Billing '97 and be par=
t
of the lightweight parade, which will take place at the event. As the
Lightweight club would like as many different variants both original and
modified, from 2.25l petrol to Tdi, Truck cab to soft top, arctic to gulf
spec.

     E-mail me if you have a Lightweight, so that we can have a chat about
them and exchange information.

Yours

Mark Finch

Ex-Dutch UN 24V Diesel Lightweight

finchm@sky2.bskyb.com

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jan 1997 11:28:20 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: None

Mark Gelhausen wrote: 

On wooden sailboat hull topsides, I use a roller-and-brush-tip paint
application method.  Honestly, it looks sprayed when dry. Has
anyone experience with this method on aluminum hulls
 ...err panels?  Mark

I've painted a lot of aluminum hulls with the roller-and-brush tip method, and
if done properly it has a "looks damned good in the rain from a few yards
away" quality, but not quite as good as a sprayed coating.   A few pointers:  

1.  Be as careful with your etch primer as you are with the topcoat.  I used
zinc chromate - toxic stuff, but it works very well and is less hazardous when
brushed on.  If you're not careful, the primer will either sag or "collect" in
ugly puddles in every depression in the metal, especially along inward-facing
seams.  

2.  Tape off your roller:  Wrap a fresh roller in masking tape, repeat 4 or 5
times.  When your done, the fibers that remain are the ones truly dedicated to
their work.  They're less likely to fall off and stick into your paint.  

3.  "Chase" the rolled-on paint with a foam brush (cheap) or a very fine camel
hair brush (not cheap).  Foam works just as well, and you don't have to clean
the brush.

4.  Humidity and properly thinned paint are critical.   I don't know your
climate, but some of the effects of humidity can be overcome by adding a dryer
to the paint - use it sparingly!

Good luck!

Jeff Jackson 73 SIII 88 HT

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:38:56 -500
Subject: Brush Painting

Roller/BrushTippers United,

Additions to LT Jackson's excellent comments:
Indeed, the foam brushes are great!  No loose hairs and if done right, 
the foam has the spot-on telltale squeak/gentle pull.  I believe the 
rollers were foam as well or at least, a low profile nap.  The 
finished look?  Malachy(sp?) Green(close to traditional BRG) looks 
great at even a couple of meters, rain or no rain.  Fits in well with 
LR character.  Mark    

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:19:10 -0800
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Defroster Ducts & HTML
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
8<
> Chris, I grabbed a lantern and went out and looked at the hoses on my
car.
> My car has a Kodiak heater.  The heater vent has two holes for heater
> vents.  I have the rectangular demisters mounted at the wiper motors.
> There are two seperate holes, one for each tube, the lower rightmost

hole
> is 14 inches edge to outer edge of panel bracket.  the edge to edge
> distance  between holes is 1/2 inch.  I couldn't varify this but the
lower
> holes appear to be oval.  The hoses pass through at an angle.  The
upper
> right most hole is 9-1/2 inches from edge to outside edge of the panel
> bracket.  The hole edge spacing is 2 inches.
8<

Thanks!  I guess I'll have to cut the top hole.  Thanks for the specs,
so I know where to place them.

C

------------54E9668125851
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<HTML><BODY>

<DT>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:<BR>
8&lt;</DT>

<DT>&gt; Chris, I grabbed a lantern and went out and looked at the hoses
on my car.<BR>
&gt; My car has a Kodiak heater.&nbsp; The heater vent has two holes for
heater<BR>
&gt; vents.&nbsp; I have the rectangular demisters mounted at the wiper
motors.<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
&gt; There are two seperate holes, one for each tube, the lower rightmost
hole<BR>
&gt; is 14 inches edge to outer edge of panel bracket.&nbsp; the edge to
edge<BR>
&gt; distance&nbsp; between holes is 1/2 inch.&nbsp; I couldn't varify
this but the lower<BR>
&gt; holes appear to be oval.&nbsp; The hoses pass through at an angle.&nbsp;
The upper<BR>
&gt; right most hole is 9-1/2 inches from edge to outside edge of the panel<BR>
&gt; bracket.&nbsp; The hole edge spacing is 2 inches.<BR>
8&lt;</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>Thanks!&nbsp; I guess I'll have to cut the top hole.&nbsp; Thanks for
the specs, so I know where to place them.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>C</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------54E9668125851--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:21:09 -0800
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Thanks, D
Bobeck, David R. wrote:
8<
> Since this is on a Series III, I suspect it is the same problem as the
one
> I had. The hinge bolt that passes through the windscreen has no way of
> sealing, so the water just creeps in around the the threads. Also this
bolt
> gets loose after awhile which makes it worse. Unfortunately, you must
fold
> the windscreen forward to access the nut on the inside if you want to
> tighten it.  Mine already had some old silicone around it, and leaked
every
> time without fail. I put some new silicone in and now it is fine. Now
just
> to get that windscreen to bulkhead seal put on the right way, and
maybe my
> clutch pedal wont be so slippery when its freezing outside.

Actually, mine is a IIA, but I'll have a look at it.

Thanks,
C

------------413669FD10312
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<HTML><BODY>

<DT>Thanks, D</DT>

<DT>Bobeck, David R. wrote:<BR>
8&lt;</DT>

<DT>&gt; Since this is on a Series III, I suspect it is the same problem
as the one<BR>
&gt; I had. The hinge bolt that passes through the windscreen has no way
of<BR>
&gt; sealing, so the water just creeps in around the the threads. Also
this bolt<BR>
&gt; gets loose after awhile which makes it worse. Unfortunately, you must
fold<BR>
&gt; the windscreen forward to access the nut on the inside if you want
to<BR>
&gt; tighten it.&nbsp; Mine already had some old silicone around it, and
leaked every<BR>
&gt; time without fail. I put some new silicone in and now it is fine.
Now just<BR>
&gt; to get that windscreen to bulkhead seal put on the right way, and
maybe my<BR>
&gt; clutch pedal wont be so slippery when its freezing outside.<BR>
<BR></DT>

<DT>Actually, mine is a IIA, but I'll have a look at it.&nbsp;&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>Thanks,<BR>
C</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------413669FD10312--

------------------------------

From: finchm@sky2.bskyb.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:29:54 +0000
Subject: re: multifuel FFR

Hi ya Philippe

After reading your mail on multifuels I noticed that you have a lightweight=

ffr, I to have a lightweight a EX- dutch UN 24v Diesel. The reason that I a=
m
mailling you is that I am coming to Belgium on the 30th january for four
days, looking for parts for my dutch diesel. If you know of any places that=

have dutch lightweights, could you let me know. My friend who is coming ove=
r
with me also has a ffr. Email me direct.

Yours Mark Finch

Ex-Dutch UN 24V Diesel Lightweight
Finchm@sky2.bskyb.com
 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: multifuel rovers
Date: 16 January 1997 10:08

My lightweight runs on LPG (even better than on petrol !), which is in
Belgium 1/3 the price of petrol. The modification is easy. Taxes don't exis=
t

when you register your car as a small truck, if registered as a 'car' you
have to pay a tax around 200 $/year (in Belgium). So I'm driving rather
cheap (in the case of a LR).

Philippe Carchon
'81 Lightweight ffr
Ghent, Belgium

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 12:38:21 -500
Subject: Lamp Prices

Regarding my previous post on lamp sets,
I am seeking comments on a fair price for the complete 
turn-signal/tail light set (8 lamps) as mentioned.
Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 12:51:23 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Sunpro D90 Oil Pressure Gauge/Series III experience

I just put a Sunpro Oil pressure gauge in the Series III, and the only
problem were the threads, it was a 1/2 inch opening and the Rover had fine
threads, while the gauge fitting had fine.  I took the tap and die set and
changed the threads on the gauge fitting to fine....works great!  Note that
the Series III already had the T piece for the original oil pressure gauge
and the oil warning light.  The D90 is probably different!

Cheers! John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA
XO of the VMFA 509th COUGARS

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover(Smedley), 1966 Series IIA(Pondoro),
   1974 Series III(Swambo)

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 11:10:16 -0700
Subject: Re: movie sighting

On Mon, 27 Jan 97 22:26:00 EST, "Beckett, Ron"  
<rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> wrote:
> >Watched a movie called Human Timebomb (1996) t'other night.  Emphasis on
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> where two nuclear cruise missiles were stolen.  Reason on US airbase - It
> was in the UK.

"You Only Live Twice" has pretty grey'ish SIII 109" in it at the very  
beginning when the Hong Kong police shows up to confirm James "death".

--
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
                                                          ".com is a mistake."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 14:06:00 est
From: "Brian Hanson/EW/BNL" <Brian_Hanson/EW/BNL_at_BLNOTESMAIL@blwn0009.bausch.com>
Subject: Re: Brush Painting

>I believe the rollers were foam as well or at least, a low profile nap.  The
>finished look?  Malachy(sp?) Green(close to traditional BRG) looks
>great at even a couple of meters, rain or no rain.  Fits in well with
>LR character.  Mark
I'm going to be repainting the hull and topsides of my boat this spring so I've
been doing some research on roll-on paint.  I've just recently
looked at two boats(one fiberglass, one alum) that were painted with foam
rollers and brushes(the expensive brushes are used for light
touch up and tight corners..were they called badger brushes?)  I'd have to say
that these finishes were excellent.  You couldn't tell the
difference between them and a sprayed application.  The tips I've been told or
to take your time(so hard to do when the paint job was
supposed to be done by yesterday), use high quality foam rollers and brushes(can
 be gotten easily from any marine supply company),
make sure you have the proper environmental conditions(heat and humidity), and
use the special flow-out additives for roller application.
I'll have to let you know how it works for me in a few months.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:20:50 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Single-declutching........

>Can anyone think what bits of gearbox I might be decimating by doing 
this?

All of them.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Mile Marker
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:41:52 -0800

The good news about the Mile Marker Winch is that they will pull forever 
without overheating, draining the battery, etc. Provided the engine is 
running, of course.

The bad news is, they _have_ to pull forever, since they are so slow :-)

Unlike most modern electric winches, the MM Hydraulic winch's pull speed is 
not a function of the load-it's always slow. (er, cautious,  I mean)

Keep us posted on using the PTO output, I haven't heard anyone using it for 
anything, yet. From what I've read, though, even with a big PS pump, it's 
still slower than a comparable electric winch, but if you want a "working" 
winch, a PTO's the way to go.

-- Bob  W.
------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:40:09 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mile Marker

Greg Spitz just found out that his 9,000# Mile Marker is slower than his
Superwinch S9000.  I think the reason (other than the cold affecting the
hydraulic fluid) is that the output of the PS pump limits the capacity of
the winch to but 7,000# even though it is rated to 9,000#.

I still like the Mile Marker and plan to install one on the Safari Gard
bumper on the Disco when I get it.  However, I'd much rather run it from a 
PTO pump, because I want a "working" winch, not a "recovery" winch.  The
LT-230 T-box has a rear PTO hole.  Anybody tried using it?
Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 14:04:13 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Brush Painting

This is a no-brainer.
Use Z-Spar, Brush-ease, foam rollers and take your time. The finish 
quality is excellent.
Whether you're painting a Land-Rover or a boat this is by far the 
easiest, and cheapest way to go.
Sandy, you can add your two cents.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 14:30:46 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)

Actually, mine is a IIA, but I'll have a look at it.

Sorry, I was responding to somebody that had a '75 SIII. There is no bolt 
passing through the windscreen on the IIA like there is on a SIII. 
I think the change in the windshield mounting form IIa to III was a step 
backward. The hinge on the IIa looks much more durable, and I have heard of 
the SIII type coming apart when used on washboard roads.
Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Mike MacDonald <mmacdonald@laserdirect.com>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:49:34 -0800

When thinking about Land Rovers in films, lets not forget........

1)  Ace Ventura - When Nature Calls
         Nice "through the jungle" drive in which Carrey wrecks a
Defender
         (I think - it's been a while since I saw it) and parks the
wrecked
         version next to a line of about 6 others.

2)  Cliffhanger
         Stallone drives an older (early 70's maybe) 109" when he
returns 
         from his "I can't handle the stress of dropping the gal I've
got to 
         get out of here" point in his life.

3)  White Heart, Black Hunter
         Long, tedious safari film starring Clint Eastwood.   Lots of
period LR's
         in the heart of Africa.  Boring film, but if you're really in
love with the
         Land Rover you'll sit through it just to see them in their
element.

Enjoy!

>----------
>From:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 1532 lines)]
>majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>  -B

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 14:06:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Single-declutching........

> but by snicking it out of 
> gear clutchless and then using teh clutch only to put it into the new 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Can anyone think what bits of gearbox I might be decimating by doing 
> this?
If done correctly, none. If you're *really* good, you don't need a 
clutch at all. It's called "speed shifting".

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:11:11 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Single-declutching........

>Can anyone think what bits of gearbox I might be decimating by doing 
>this?

If you're "speed-matching" the gears so they are turning at exactly the 
proper meshing speed, then there is no problem. Truckers have been doing it 
forever. OTOH, if there IS a tendency towards a speed difference, then the 
synchros may be given an unhealthy spin as the gears DIS-engage. Probably  
trivial, but why chance-it? 

JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:21:21 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Diesel Glow plugs

Regarding James' question about the parallel glow-plugs: yes they do work 
well. It was -4f this morning, so I held them on for 30 seconds before 
cranking. Most mornings (around 20degF)I use 20 seconds. In the afternoon 
getting ready to go home after work, only 15 seconds (outside air temp gets 
up to about 32degF). (OBTW, mine will NOT quite start by rolling down-hill 
when it's this cold unless the glow-plugs are lit.)
JohnO
'64 109 (series II-A diesel)

>Lloydy my series 3 diesel won't start again this morning.
>I suspect the glow plugs which I've been avioding replacing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I'd like an answer because It's too cold to use the bicycle.
>James

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:26:10 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Mile Marker 9000

>>Finally had the fortune to have to use my Mile Marker 9000 winch on my D110
>to pull a  scared kid out of a snowy cold ditch .....because of the cold it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>to make it faster or just accept it.???
>Greg

        Slow is the name of the game for the Mile Marker but the newest
versions have a two-speed feature for winding in under no load. Just what
you wanted to hear, eh!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:29:24 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: hydraulic winch (was: Mile Marker)

I'm using a log-splitter hydraulic pump to run my homemade hydraulic winch. 
It pumps a high volume at low pressure (taking up slack line in a hurry like 
a good electric winch), and pumps low volume at high pressure (pulling it's 
full rated line pull at reduced speed). I'm running it by v-belt, but it 
could as easily be PTO driven. It should work equally well with the 
mile-marker. I can discuss it off-line if you want to know more.
JohnO

jouster@redm.primextech.com >

>Greg Spitz just found out that his 9,000# Mile Marker is slower than his 
>Superwinch S9000.  I think the reason (other than the cold affecting the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
>      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
>      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:09:44 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel tent heaters

To Larry Smith or anyone else who has contact with these:
The diesel fueled heaters used for GP Mediums and the smaller cousins 
used for GP Smalls as I recall really cranked.
I wonder if you could supply a short description so that I might 
undertake to duplicate one for campsite use. I forget how they work. I 
know they are a pain in the neck to start, but once they're going....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: CarPhonMan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:22:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 97-01-23 13:56:12 EST, you write:

<< unsubscribe lro-digest >>

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Sand-blasting
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 09:06:00 EST

Floris Houniet wrote:

>You what? How did you sandblast it? Do you have a personal sandblasting
>kit?

Jeff Jackson replied:
>I recommend buying an in-line water remover, otherwise the
>line will clog every 30 seconds with moist sand.   Very frustrating.

I. too use a sand-blasting gun with my compressor.  I've found that it is 
best
to spread the sand out on the concrete driveway to let it dry in the sun. 
 Rake
it around to ensure it is thoroughly dry before use.  I then sweep ist up 
and
sift it into a clean container to ensure there are no sticks, stones etc.

I don't use a moisture trap in the air line when blasting although it might 
be
better to avoid moisture being deposited on your nice cleaned job.  I guess
it depends on how humid it is when you do the job.

Ron Beckett
+61 2 9339-6921 work
+61 47 35-6883 home
Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'83 Range Rover 3.5L manual (for sale)
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 23:31:56 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: SIII Gearbox-outing

Richard Marsden wrote:
> > Calling all Series III gearbox buffs!
> > MY SIII 109D 1976 failed its MOT yesterday as the inspector discovered
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 70 lines)]
> beware!
> Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
Thanks Richard - two more questions...

what is FFR?

and do you have to open the hydraulic system to remove the clutch, or
was your fluid-shower accidental and otherwise unnecessary?
-- 

thanks
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: finchm@sky2.bskyb.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 23:02:49 +0000
Subject: what is FFR

FFR is t he term used for an Ex military land rover, that once carried a
radio also they are usually 24V

Mark
EX Dutch UN Lightweight 24V Diesel
finchm@sky2.bskyb.com

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Dogs Breakfast
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 09:31:00 EST

The exact origin of the saying is lost in the anals of times, but it
refers to a mess.

Anything that is anal is usually a mess! 8->

"And how many slabs is it worth?"
Do all the readers of this list know that "a slab" is Aussie for a carton of 
24 cans of beer?

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Pick-up Lines
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 09:31:00 EST

Probably wouldn't work in Australia.  We don't call 'em wrenches.  We call 
'em spanners,
hence the (sometimes) nickname for a good looking girl.  (spanners tighten 
nuts).

Ron

> DaveB has asked (for his shy friends, no doubt) for our favorite lines.
> 4.  You wouldn't happen to have a 7/16" Whitworth wrench would you?  US
How to get hit,over here...
(cue: talk wench jokes)

------------------------------

From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 19:09:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: What is FFR

Adrian asked "what is FFR?"

Quite simply it stands for "Fitted for radio",  which mainly meant a 24 volt
electrical system was fitted.  For some reason a lot of people are frightened
by 24 volt and go to great lengths to convert it to 12 volt.  24 volt is
better and spare parts are available quite readily as a lot of trucks are 24
volt.  So a lot of people ruin a good system because they aren't used to it.

Regards

Jamie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:15:43 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: what is FFR

finchm@sky2.bskyb.com wrote:
> FFR is t he term used for an Ex military land rover, that once carried a
> radio also they are usually 24V

hence Fitted For Radio

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 19:51:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mile Marker

What`s a PTO?   
Thanks for the info.
                           Rgds, Rick

`96 Disco "Patsy"
`63 SII Pickup "Edina"
`97 Blazer 

------------------------------

Subject: British Standard
From: robot1@juno.com (Mark E Hardig)
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:43:52 EST

On sunday you wrote:

>Oil Pressure thread size? They are British Standard, Can't find dem here
in the
>states, you have to take an oil pressure switch and modify it to create
what u 
>need.

For all who have tried to find difficult fasteners and fittings, please
contact:

Metric & Multistandard Components Corp

Illinois: 800-221-4469
Texas:800-527-5177
New York: 800-431-2792

They have what you need or can tell you where to get it including a large
selection of British Standard Pipe Plug sizes, BSST straight thread
stuff, as well as a large selection of Witworth Form threads (you can buy
Whitworth Form all-thread!!!) Give them a company name, not just your own
name, and they will send you a catalog. 
I have had excellent luck with their hydraulic fittings and stainless
metric brake line. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 20:13:25 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hyphens

David Cockey wrote:

>>Looking through various books Land-Rover became Land Rover with the 
>>introduction of the 110 in 1983.

And Eric Z. replied:

>FWIW, the Stage One didn't have a hyphen on the front badge either.

That may be, but I've got a press release from Land (-) Rover dated
December, 1989.  They announced that the hyphen in the corporate logo was
being dropped "To provide greater compatibility with the Range Rover."
Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 20:13:32 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Leaking firewalls

Iwan Vosloo wrote:

>If you get that one figured out, please tell me....Mine gets water in
>(also somewhere through the firewall) which then frips right onto my
>(clutch) foot.

What's it worth to ya', Iwan?  ;-)  Since your's is a Series III here's
the definite answer:  It's the little T-bolt that attaches to the firewall 
hinge piece.  The bottom of the bolt is in a 'gutter' at the bottom of the 
windscreen which fills with water.  A judicious amount of silicone sealant 
at the junction of the bolt and the base will cure this annoying leak.  Mine 
hasn't returned in six years.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:20:47 -0800
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
>Subject: Re: Gods Must Be Crazy?

>> BTW, not to start another thread, but when did they take the hyphen
>> out of Land Rover?
>They did'nt. It is, was and always will be Land-Rover.

I have never seen a dash between Land and Rover, and every piece of
literature and correspondence I have from the Land Rover factory in
Solihull uses the words without a dash, both in the text of the letters or
brochures and in the letterheads.

C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 LR Series III-88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:28:17 PST
Subject: Re:unsubscribe
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

unsubscribe land-rover-owner rhodesia@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: What is FFR
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 12:37:00 EST

Adrian asked "what is FFR?"

Jamie replied.:

>Quite simply it stands for "Fitted for radio",  which mainly meant a 24
>volt electrical system was fitted.  For some reason a lot of people are
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>trucks are 24 volt.  So a lot of people ruin a good system because they
>aren't used to it.

two of the advantages of 24v systems are:

1.  Current flow in cables is reduced therefore voltage drop on the cable
is lower (Ohms Law)

2.  Ohmic (resistive) losses at connectors etc have less effect on the
voltage being delivered to the accessory for 2 reasons, viz., they are a 
smaller
in proportion to the supply voltage AND they are smaller anyway because of 
the
reduced current flow through the connector.

To understand the above, consider the following:

Assume a 100watt 12 volt driving lamp driven from a 12v system.
Noting the formula P=EI where the current (I) in the circuit equals
the light wattage (P) divided by the circuit voltage (E)
 i.e. the current is 100/12 = 8.3 amps

Assume a 100w 24v lamp - the current is now 100/24 = 4.16 amps

Now assume the wiring (including switch, connectors etc) to the lamp has an 
overall
resistance of 0.5 ohms.

For the 12v system, the voltage drop along the cable will be (from Ohms Law)
E=IR where R= resistance of 0.5 ohms
 0.5ohms  x  8.33 amps = 4.16 volts
That is, only 12v minus 4.16v will reach the lamp i.e. approx 8 volts or 
only 75%
of the design voltage.  Light brilliance will be markedly reduced.

For the 24v system, the voltage drop along the cable will be (from Ohms Law)
E=IR where R= resistance of 0.5 ohms
0.5ohms  x  4.16 amps = 2.08 volts
That is, 24v minus 2.08v will reach the lamp i.e. approx 22 volts or 92%
of the design voltage.  Light brilliance will not so noticeably reduced.

Naturally, this little example neglects the fact that the current will be 
reduced
the voltage is reduced etc.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Ron Beckett

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:31:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Installation of Oil Pressure Gauge on D90

You might want to try a racing supply house (Pegasus is one I know of) for 
adapters to British thread....I seem to remember some listed.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:31:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Softop

Will the person who e-mailed me about a soft-top get back to me.  I accidentally 
deleted the message.  Thanks.
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:31:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: movie sighting

On Mon, 27 Jan 97, Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> wrote:

>"You Only Live Twice" has pretty grey'ish SIII 109" in it at the very  
>beginning when the Hong Kong police shows up to confirm James "death".

Actually, I believe it was a Series I 107" Station-Wagon...I guess I'll have to 
check.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 19:39:37 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: (Y)ikes

At 06:10 PM 1/24/97 -0500, you wrote:
>In Scotland a dike is a stone wall (as in 2a) and you can actually go to
>Agricultural College there and get a qualification in Diking at the same 
>time as studing Advanced Off Road Techniques in a Land Rover (supplied).  
>Might come in handy whilst visiting SF.

Probably not, as there aren't any dikes really in SF.  Dykes are another
matter...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: BSROA/RN WINTER COURSE
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:44:31 -0500

All course attendees were mailed a detailed itinerary today.

There are TWO openings left. Contact me on Club line 617-545-4743 or =
post me if interested. Dates are this Friday (travel day) course days =
Sat/Sun 2/1-2/2.

LR Metro West is donating event T-shirts supplied by Planet Sportswear. =
They are awesome and similar to the cool ones done by same for the Fall =
Heritage Rally last Oct.

Cheers
Jim

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: Upstaged!!
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:46:48 -0500

The rumor mill has it that an UNKNOWN female enthusiast has agreed to =
purchase the Lightweight prototype 212CXC from the Dunsfold Trust here =
in the USA - confirming rumors in LRW....

We'll see!

Who are you???? Speak up. I did with the Pink Panther!

Cheers
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 00:11:23 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Mile Marker

(This is a resend. I don't fully trust Netscape mail, or at least this
implementation)

Rick inquires
> What`s a PTO?

Power Take Off. The system of diverting rotational power from the engine
to drive an accessory. Series LRs have several potential locations for
PTOs. The crankshaft is frequently used to drive a front winch via a
u-jointed shaft from the pulley end of the crank. The rear of the
transfer case has an opening which can be used for a center PTO, or a
shaft can be run from the rear opening to the large hole in the rear
crossmember and a rear mounted PTO. The opening in the rear of the
transfer case is alternatively used for an overdrive.  A PTO can also be
mounted on the bottom of the transfer case in place of the pan.

PTO driven devices include winches, hydraulic pumps, generators,
compressors, welders, sprayers, saws, milkers, mowers and other
agricultural devices. A member of the Series II Club in England is
trying to preserve LR PTO equipment. This earned him an insult from LRW
(Land Rover World magazine), now claimed to be "obvious" humor. (At
least the Feb. LRW is a signficant improvement from the low mark
established by the Jan. LRW.)

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 07:31:18 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> Actually, mine is a IIA, but I'll have a look at it.
> Sorry, I was responding to somebody that had a '75 SIII. There is no bolt
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Later
> DaveB.

They do! I've had SIII & IIa (sold the III and kept the IIa because of
the stronger gearbox, indestructible dash - with builtin bottle opener -
and more durable fittings) and replacing the turnbuckle-type fastener
and the stupid hinge on the widnscreen cost me many days of searching
through greasy/rusty bins in junkyards. Eventually I had new parts
turned up for me on a lathe.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:36:59 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 2.25 l Compressed Head Gasket Thickness?

Jim Allen wrote:
>         There are composite and copper gaskets. I miked a composite gasket
> and it was .044". I checked a copper gasket once but can't find the data
> but my recollection is that it was near this figure.
> Interesting I wasn't aware of two different gaskets.  I'd hope they'd be

close.

But more to the point, was the 0.044" pre torque or post torque (i.e., installed)?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: movie sighting
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 8:51:09 GMT

> On Mon, 27 Jan 97, Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> wrote:
> >"You Only Live Twice" has pretty grey'ish SIII 109" in it at the very  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Actually, I believe it was a Series I 107" Station-Wagon...I guess I'll have to 
> check.

Definitely SI. Can't remember the colour (although grey sounds good), or
the wheelbase.
YOLT was made in the early '60s, wasn't it?   :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Alain-Jean PARES <Alain-Jean.Pares@inforoute.cgs.fr>
Subject: RE: movie sighting
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 12:30:17 +0100

>"You Only Live Twice" has pretty grey'ish SIII 109" in it at the very  
>beginning when the Hong Kong police shows up to confirm James "death".

I saw it (not in the movie, but the real one !) in France during the last annual car show in Paris past November.
With all the James ' cars (Rolls, Ferrari, Mini, ... )

Alain-Jean PARES
Paris, FRANCE

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end

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 72 lines 5717 [forwarded 1794 whitespace 1009]
 Output: lines 2084 [content 2738  forwarded 157 (cut  1637) whitespace 623]

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