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Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 13:22:14 +0100 (MET)
From: Paul Snoek <P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl>
Subject: Re: Pain

At 19:12 24-01-97 -0800, you wrote:
>> What a great week!!!

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>> sv/aurens
>Det var kedeligt at h=F8re - Hvem i Danmark vil stj=E5le en Land Rover?=
 Hvor
>bor du hen? (forh=E5bentligt ikke i Skanderborg - jeg troede Land Rovere
>var fredet her! Tanken om Ranbuktyve er m=E5ske rigtigt!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
>---------------------------------------------------

What did you say ??
What did you say ??  8^(

Paul,
D90 V8 Auto 1984
the Netherlands

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 09:00:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bucket Seats

On Fri, 24 Jan 1997, eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) wrote:

>The "deluxe" black seats on my IIA SWB are coming apart at the seams, and a
>seat replacement is imminent. A few weeks ago there was mention of using
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Since the local boutique de junque is full of Hondas, it would be
>interesting to know experience on fitting these seats.
I've done it with CRX seats...not the best fitting but with a little ingenuity 
they work allright.  When I get them setup properly, I'll post a description of 
how to do it.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: DPorter99@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 09:04:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: JC whitney

1-312-431-6102 for JCWhitney, but they are the Kmart of auto parts. (not good
parts)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 09:10:10 -0500
From: blainh@accent.net (Blain Hughes)
Subject: Turn Signal/Dimmer Switch

Help!!
I was reinstalling the turn signal switch and managed to break the bakelite
I tried to epxoy it with no luck.
Does anyone have a used switch they would like to sell?
Please e-mail me direct.
Thanks
Blain

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 15:33:06 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Gallons and Liters

Tony Yates asked about conversion.

1 US gallon    3.785 liters
1 UK gallon    4.546 liters

Sorry, we have only one kind of liters - what a poor continent!

To convert from miles/gallon to liters/100 kilometers:

US:  235.24/miles per gallon = liters per 100 km
UK:  282.54/miles per gallon = liters per 100 km

and vice versa.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:13:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Land Rovers AS Tractors

My 80" spent the first 30+ years of it's life as a TRACTOR in North Yorks.
Alas it's life hasen't gotten any easier, So there is some cross over when we
talk of tractors. :-)
Rgds Quintin
PS there is a picture of it in this months, ( Feb) LRW, p 71 I think.

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:15:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Enough about stinkin' tractors already!

My 80" spent the first 30+ years of it's life as a TRACTOR in North Yorks.
Alas it's life hasen't gotten any easier, So there is some cross over when we
talk of tractors. :-)
Rgds Quintin
PS there is a picture of it in this months, ( Feb) LRW, p 71 I think.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 16:28:30 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: SII(A) vs. SIII

Richard Marsden says:
>I hear the
>headlights-on-the-wings was for the EEC. Probably slightly better than the
>SI/II arrangement I guess.

The headlights were moved to the wings for exports to Australia, the EEC had 
nothing to do with that for a change. The headlights on the breakfast were 
in a much more protected position, of course, so the original design was 
better suited for the original purpose - driving through the bush, or close 
to unkempt hedges with branches sticking out. The headlights in the wings 
provide better light, though. Personally I have always liked the headlights 
in the breakfast much better, but tastes are different.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:19:48 -0800
From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Fitting An Electric Fan

Rick,

I was having persistent overheating even in cool weather while trying to get my 
restoration project roadworthy.  After trying different thermostats and other 
diagnostics, I decided to fit an electric fan on my '65 88. (I also installed a Prestone 
backflush kit that gets mounted inline on the heater hose.  I used Prestone's chemical 
flush that removes rust but is "non-toxic", right!) 

Installation of the fan and wiring was easy.  However, be careful to make the right 
polarity changes to account for a positive ground if you haven't converted your vehicle. 
 A well-stocked parts place will have a choice of either a pre-set thermostatic control 
(mine is at 185F) and a variable control.  

The installation instructions don't include the manufacturer's name but the model name 
is "Thin-Line".  The fans come in several sizes, 14" seemed to be the best fit.  This 
size fan uses a very easy "quik-mount" hardware set -- took about 3 minutes.  The 
pre-set thermo control is p/n 3652 and the adjustable is 3647.

Be careful to check that the fan is blowing air towards the engine before you install 
it!  The mounting bits (all plastic) would have to be destroyed to remove the fan.  The 
fan can be mounted on either the outside or engine-side of the radiator.

BTW, The unit seemed well-sealed for ordinary road use but I can't believe that you 
could go deep wading with it.

Best of luck,

Neil Sheridan
65 IIA 88 -- Now able to leave my postal code without overheating!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:44:41 -0700
From: alan boyer <aboyer@intermountain.com>
Subject: Re: References

Ask around alot about this guy, Be careful, His producr seems to be OK, His
buisness practices are questionable, There are better places and better ways.
What are you looking for? Have you checked w/ Seth @ British Bulldog?

At 11:26 AM 1/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm trying to get references on Landf Rover Connection. If you have had any
>dealings... good or bad with LRC or Joeseph Kemp, I would be interested in
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>hearing about them.
>WJMcD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:42:49 -0800
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: LR Prices

>From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
>Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 07:32:50 -500
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>axles, and suspensions for the better?  Lately, I have read of a 2.5
>litre 5 bearing petrol engine.  I thought it was a 2.25 litre 3 bearing
>engine!  BTW, is the series III a leaf sprung design?

The primary difference between the Series III and the Series IIa is the
change to an all-sycro gearbox.  The IIa transmission is non-sycnro on
first and second.  In making the change, the Series III also got a
hydraulic clutch system that is a little easier to work on and bleed.  The
rest of the changes are pretty much cosmetic.  The instrument panel is more
"modern," the headlights were moved to the outside wings and recessed
(although some of the last IIa models had this, too), and the metal mesh
grill was replaced by a plastic grill that looks okay but you can't cook on
it.

All the production Series Land Rovers are leaf-sprung vehicles.  I believe
the factory made a couple of coil-sprung Series IIIs as part of a
development program, and it's possible to convert a Series Land Rover to
coils.  There are a number of ardent off-roaders who firmly believe that a
leaf suspension is superior to a coil suspension.  While I have done a fair
amount of "serious" off-roading, it's been more of necessity than for
recreation, so I'm not in a position to comment with authority on coils vs.
leaves.  All I can say is my Series III has never gotten stuck except for
one time in mud that would have stopped it regardles of what kind of
springs it had, nor has my Range Rover (coils) ever gotten stuck, and I've
had it in some pretty harsh conditions.

Most of the production run of Series IIIs had a 2.25 litre 3-bearing
engine.  However, in the late 1970s (I think) the 2.25 litre engine was
redesigned to incorporate 5 main bearings.  The engines are interchangeable
as the blocks are pretty much identical.  However, you cannot rebuild a
3-bearing engine into a 5-bearing engine unless you change the block, which
sort of negates the advantages of rebuilding the engine in the first place.
The 2.5 engine you refer to is (I think) a later powerplant, and I'm not
sure if can be installed directly into a Series Land Rover without any
modifications.  I'm sure someone else in this group will know.  Hope this
helps...

C. Marin Faure
Seattle, WA.
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Subject: Reminder - Off-road in NH, Sun Feb 9th
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 13:47:46 -0500

Just wanted to post this reminder for those that may have missed the first
post. I have 6 vehicles "bashing through the bush" in NH. 

A fun day out re-building the odd bridge, tree clearing, maybe winching and
hi-lifting. Bring the kids, food and a change of warm clothing. 

This is a "Non-damaging" trail. You may end up some tree "pinstriping", but
the trails are boulder free. I have about 8 miles of trails just 1/4 mile
from my house, some I have cleared, some need clearing.  

More Info, e-mail me. 

1988 RANGE ROVER - 

Southdown Underbody Amour, Warn M8000 Winch, Ironman Suspension Bushings,
1" Inch lift. HD/Springs. Hellas, K&N Filter

1991 RANGE ROVER -

 "The Wife's"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:44:14 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted Choke cable

Enough of this "what kind of soap" and "my non-LR is better than your
non-LR" discussions.
TeriAnn raises one of my favorite subjects:
> I need a good condition used choke cable for my 109.
> Early series IIA, positive earth Land Rover (Has starter button on bulkhead
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> rectangular metal switch on the cable inside the engine compartment for the
> cold running light.

Another example of seemingly minor parts which are becoming difficult to
find for pre-SIII. The part number for that cable is 500571 (no heat
carb). New cables are tough to find, (try Blanchard or Craddock in
England) and expensive (#30 to #50). The later IIA IP mounted choke
cable is 556282. Blanchard lists these at #4.75. RN lists a replacement
cable, STC1676 @ $16.00, which appears to replace 556282. Any experience
with these, or in using the IP mounted type cable in the bulkhead
position.

The housing of the cable on our SII PU was mutilated due the PO slapping
a Weber on it so he could sell it. He managed to mount the carb without
the adaptor (orig was Solex) but the throttle only opened half-way. We
found a replacement housing at Halley's of Dorking, but it was the last
he had.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:52:43 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: Wanted Choke cable

TeriAnn,
        I went down to OSH and picked up a lawnmower throttle cable for a
couple-a-bucks. I then took apart the choke cable assy, and removed the old
wire by punching the end out through the hole in the side of the handle
assy. You can than remove the old cable housing and wire and install the
new (longer?) cable. You need to play around with a torch and a coupl-a
punches in a vice to flatten out the end ov the wire in the hole in the
handle-shaft. A real pain in the arse, but it got mine back together. I
needed to do this cause the choke on my weber pulls from the front. I don't
think that this is the same weber others are using, mine is a 30mm throat
if I remember, but I have a smaller engine.
An alternate method is possible by just bending the end of the wire and
filling the hole with solder, but I lost my propane torch, and had to use
the hammer, vice, two punch method. Carefull, the wire is brittle and
breaks off when trying to squoush the end w/o annealing? with a torch. If
this doesn't make sence give me a call and I will explain better.
Good-luck
Paul
>I need a good condition used choke cable for my 109.

>There are a few types of choke cables so I'll describe the application.

>Early series IIA, positive earth Land Rover (Has starter button on bulkhead
>and push pull instrument switches).  The cable is mounted directly to the
>bulkhead below the instrument panel near the starter button.  There is a
>rectangular metal switch on the cable inside the engine compartment for the
>cold running light.

>Can some one please help me out?  If you have the proper cable in good
>condition that you can spare, please send e-mail to twakeman@scruznet.com
>and let me know how much you want for the cable.

>TeriAnn

Paul Archibald
Paarch@ix.netcom.com
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre ....slowly, but surely
"87 Range-Rover-160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak)
Fly yellow '92 Ducati 750SS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:01:21 -0500
From: blainh@accent.net (Blain Hughes)
Subject: Turn signal/Dimmer Switch

Sorry folks I forgot to mention the switch is for a 1972 series 111 88.
I guess the mind just wasn't working.
Blain

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:52:12 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Don't cook on LR grille: (was Re: LR Prices)

C. Marin Faure wrote:
> and the metal mesh
> grill was replaced by a plastic grill that looks okay but you can't cook on
> it.

If you're tempted to have LR barbecue:
You CAN cook on a SI/II/IIA metal grille, but don't eat the food. Those
grilles are galvanized, and if the fire is hot enough the zinc absorbed
by the food will poison you.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Subject: Greg's picture.
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:01:33 -0500

Hey, send it back to him !!!! Twice, with Thanks.  

Mark 

1988 RANGE ROVER - 

Southdown Underbody Amour, Warn M8000 Winch, Ironman Suspension Bushings,
1" Inch lift. HD/Springs. Hellas, K&N Filter

1991 RANGE ROVER -

 "The Wife's"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:17:41 -0500 (EST)
From: x x <hilltop@worldchat.com>
Subject: take me off this list from hilltop@advantage.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 14:56:04 -0500
From: Mike Gaines <106220.1234@compuserve.com>
Subject: Did he make it?/Books/Elec fans

What happened to the guy who was setting off last week in an Sll that he
just bought to go home to the mid-west from Florida[?] Did he make it, is
he stuck some place? Did I miss an epicf? What? And where is the bottle
opener?
  On LR books, Lindsay Porter's guide to purchase & restoration of Series
LRs has Land Rovers on every page but the plot is crap. However there is a
[short & simple] section on fittting electric fans, which probably don't
add much to the instructions youd get with any fan kit. 
Cheers
Mike Gaines Slll L'Wt `Wicked Wanda'
PS Come to think of it, the plot is pretty good.He gets his resto done
using manufacturer donated parts, takes pix then makes beer tokens from
flogging book to me. 

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 15:10:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Seeking Pick-up Cab for 88"

Hi all,

I'm presently looking for a pickup cab for a 88".  Either outright sale, swap
for parts or a combination is possible.  I'm located in Maryland

Thanks
Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 15:26:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 2nd Vehicles 

when I bought my 95 D90 (License--MY DFNDR) I realized I wasn't happy at all
driving the 1990 toyota 4 runner so I picked up a 93 NAS 110 ( License--DFNDR
2) so I am not Roverless.

Never Roverless in Illinois
Greg 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 11:50:16 PST
Subject: good luck
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

GOOD LUCK TOTEM

                                       \\\|||///
                                       =========
                                     ^ | O   O |
                                    / \ \v_'/
                                     #   _| |_
                                    (#) (     )
                                     #\//|* *|\\
                                     #\/(  *  )/
                                     #   =====
                                     #   (\|/)
                                     #   || ||
                                    .#.--'| |---.
                                     #'---' ----'

This totem has been sent to you for good luck.  It has been sent
around the world nine times so far.  You will receive goodluck
within four days of relaying this totem.

Send copies to people you think need good luck. Don't send
money as fate has no price.  Do not keep this message.
The totem must leave your hands in 96 hours. Send ten 
copies and see what happens in four days.  You will get a 
surprise.

This is true, even if you are not superstitious.

Good luck, but please remember: 10 copies of this message
must leave your hands in 96 hours... You must not sign on
this
message...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 16:56:01 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Don't cook on LR grille: (was Re: LR Prices)

>If you're tempted to have LR barbecue:
>You CAN cook on a SI/II/IIA metal grille, but don't eat the food. Those
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Regards,
>David Cockey
I cook on my SIII grill with no problems.  But mine is not galvanized,  its
just plain steel,  and seasoned with peanut oil.

P.S. I know 99.999% are plastic on SIII,  I have one of three known steel
grills.  Want one?

Mike Johnson  N7WBO
74 SIII 88 (Chester)  25903561b
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  ?????????
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "Richard Ruffer" <rruffer@world2u.com>
Subject: Re: Hand throttle kit
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 17:06:45 -0500

Paul -
I just installed a hand throttle in my D90 2 weeks ago.  I got it after I
got my D90 stuck in a gulley filled with water. The tail pipe was under
water, and I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling.
Luckily I had a buddy to pull me back out, but I realized that if I had to
get out and use my winch, I could have been in some trouble.

The hand throttle was listed in one of RN's sales flyers. Depending on
whether they're running a sale and how good the sale is, I've seen it
priced at $50, $85 and $125. I paid $85 which, when you see the part, seems
a little expensive. But it works well, is an original LR part, and fits
perfectly. It looks like an old fashioned manual choke. It's a metal cable
inside of a cable housing. It has a pull handle that you can turn 90
degrees to lock. I keep it locked in case it ever got caught on my jacket
or something. But it's very hard to pull the cable to increase RPM on its
own. The way to use it is to set your RPM with the gas pedal, pull the
handle until the cable holds the trottle in position, then twist the handle
to lock the cable. Installation was easy. RN instructions recommended
removing the steering wheel, but I didn't bother. I don't think taking off
the wheel would have made the installation any easier. You need to remove
the plastic covers around the steering column (7 screws) and pull out the
instrument panel (4 screws). The cable snakes through the fire wall next to
the speedo cable. The handle mounts into a hole on the right side of the
steering column where a rubber plug is. In the engine bay, the cable hooks
up to the throttle, running parallel to the gas pedal cable.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
'94 D90
rruffer@world2u.com
http://www.world2u.com/~rrufferRich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
'94 D90
rruffer@world2u.com
http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer

----------
> From: C. Paul Patsis <cpaulp@ihevanet.com>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Has anyone had any experience putting in a hand throttle on a D-90 or =
> 88. It seems as though it would be useful for winching to keep the rpm's
=
> up if you were in a situation where no one was available to manually =
> keep the pedal down.
> Subject: Hand throttle kit

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 19:30:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Mile Marker 9000

Finally had the fortune to have to use my Mile Marker 9000 winch on my D110
to pull a  scared kid out of a snowy cold ditch .....because of the cold it
was hard to pull out manually while disengaged and to my surprise it is 1\3
the speed of my Superwinch S9000 winch on my D90.....is this common....anyway
to make it faster or just accept it.???
Greg

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 19:41:20 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Vanishing hyphens

Mark wrote:

>BTW, not to start another thread, but when did they take the hyphen out 
>of Land-Rover?

Methinks it was in '90.  The reason given was to have "greater marque 
similarity across the product lines" or some such rubbish.  I still refer to 
(prefer) the "AP Style Manual" which states:

        LAND-ROVER, with a hyphen.  Trademark for a British made four wheel  
       drive vehicle.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 20:19:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Hand throttle kit

A locking cable basically identical to the one just described
 is available for about $20 from any good auto-parts supplier,
at least in the US.

I use two of them on my Bellview winch to control the clutch
andd brake, and they work quite well.

Anybody who wants details - Email me, and I'll dredge them up.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 20:38:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Hand throttle kit - details on the non-LR cable.

In response to demand for the info....here it is.

They're made by a company called Dorman - any independent auto-parts
supplier is going to have their catalogue. Dont bother with Auto Palace,
pep Boys or the like - those idiots wouldn't know a throttle cable from an
antelope...

Ask to look at the book - that's how I found mine. They're chrome-plated
locking throttle cables, and they come in either 6 or 12 foot lengths. The
center can be removed for installation, and the nuts come off the ferrule
so that they can be passed through and bolted up into a panel without
disassembling half the universe.

I encased mine in plastic tubing and filled them with silicon lubricant
before I hooked them up, just for longevity's sake.

The way they work is that the pull knob and the rod it's attached to goes
through a threaded bit. Pull the cable to the setting desired, then turn
the knob clockwise to lock. Counterclockwise unlocks them.

If you're not a rainforest gorilla, you can set the thing so that it will
hold position but still be loose enough to slap in if needed in an
emergency. This I recommend, as anything else might get you in trouble in a
tight spot.

Seems to me all the other end would need is a clamp of some sort to hold
the jacket, and a bolted attachment through a spring (for safety sake) to
the throttle linkage.

                    aj"I love third-party resources...8*)"r

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 22:11:04 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Did he make it?/Books/Elec fans

Mike Gaines wrote:
>   On LR books, Lindsay Porter's guide to purchase & restoration of Series
> LRs has Land Rovers on every page but the plot is crap.
> PS Come to think of it, the plot is pretty good.He gets his resto done
> using manufacturer donated parts, takes pix then makes beer tokens from
> flogging book to me.

For a different plot try "Practical Classics on Land Rover Restoration".
They buy a SI of dubious heritage with the idea of a rolling
restoration. They wind up with a frame-up rebuild, including engine and
trans. Over a year after starting the assorted pieces are taken to a LR
specialist for re-assembly. Instructive reading for anyone contemplating
a LR that needs work.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 22:31:19 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Vanishing hyphens

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> BTW, not to start another thread, but when did they take the hyphen out
> of Land-Rover?
> Methinks it was in '90.  The reason given was to have "greater marque
> similarity across the product lines" or some such rubbish.

Looking through various books Land-Rover became Land Rover with the
introduction of the 110 in 1983, at least for the front badge.
Interestingly a prototype says L-R while an early demonstrator says L R.
I don't have any idea when the change was made for other purposes, other
than a '87 parts book uses Land Rover.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 21:49:15 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Help needed fitting Ammeter

I'm in the process of putting some new guages into my Series III.  Does
anyone know if I can hook the +/- leads to the ammeter right to the
connections on the starter solenoid, or do I have to hook in differently?

Any help is much appreciated!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Rover Club
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 509th COUGARS/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1974 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 18:58:16 -0800
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yeah, yeah, I know.  All Rovers leak.  But that's not what I'm talking
about.  I got in the Rover yesterday evening, and the driver's (left in
mine) seat of my IIA was soaked.  Also, I've got quite a puddle in the
footwell.  As I already have some very nice cloth seats (caviar fabric,
like in the BLRS ads in LRO), and want sound proofing and carpet later,
I'd like to fix this soon.  I guess the water on the seat was from the
almost total absence of weather stripping around the driver's door top,
but where's a likely source of the footwell water?  It seems to be
coming in through the firewall somewhere.

C

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<DT>Yeah, yeah, I know.&nbsp; All Rovers leak.&nbsp; But that's not what
I'm talking about.&nbsp; I got in the Rover yesterday evening, and the
driver's (left in mine) seat of my IIA was soaked.&nbsp; Also, I've got
quite a puddle in the footwell.&nbsp; As I&nbsp;already have some very
nice cloth seats (caviar fabric, like in the BLRS ads in LRO), and want
sound proofing and carpet later, I'd like to fix this soon.&nbsp; I&nbsp;guess
the water on the seat was from the almost total absence of weather stripping
around the driver's door top, but where's a likely source of the footwell
water?&nbsp; It seems to be coming in through the firewall somewhere.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>C</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------4996325C21310--

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 23:10:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 2ND Vehicles 

The recent 2nd Vehicles thread has little to do with our Land Rovers, but
does shed some interesting light on the sort of people who contribute to
this list.  You are what you drive.

1965 Land Rover Dormobile, 2.25l, 100,000 miles, "Lurch"
1976 Ford F100 Pickup, 300" 6 cyl, 3 speed, 320,000 miles, "Bertha"
1982 Chevrolet Celebrity, 3.2l V6, 150,000 miles, "Granny"
1984 Volvo 244 DL, 2.3l, 4 spd OD, 140,000 miles, "Sven"
1989 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3l V6, 110,000 miles, "Mom's Cab"
1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3l V6, 15,000 miles, "Duh Business Car"

On ROVERISHNESS:

Tractor: Whatever the rental yard has left when I arrive.
Instrument: Guitar, balalaika, mandolin, radio & power tools.
Music: Classical, folk and some 60s and 70s rock.
Dawg: German Shepherd (Alsatian), 2 each.
Revolver: 32 year old Ruger Blackhawk in .44 Magnum.
Pistol: Colt army model 1911A1 in .45 caliber.
Rifle: Winchester model of 1895 in .30/06. (couldn't find a .405)
Camera: Nikon F2, Nikormat, Voigtlander 35mm, 1920 Kodak bellows 120,
        Yashicamat Twin Lens Reflex and lots of cheap 35mms.
Computer: Several (some actually work), mostly pc.
Clothing: Levis, flannel shirts and old jump boots.
Literature: History, car stuff like LROW or Auto Motor und Sport, the LRO
            digest, Time, woodworking and shooting magazines and anything
            that can be read while sitting on the throne (auf dem 00).
House: 1891 Victorian with frame up restoration.
Cologne: Old Spice during the week and 90 weight on weekends.
Food: Roadkill, C-rations (except ham & lima beans) and Mexican food.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 21:25:44 PST
Subject: Re: good luck
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

to the person who messaged me about this get off your high horse and
sneak you nose out of your grease pit for a moment to smile at something
else other than endless messages about Land Rover cameras (my Pentax
K1000 doesn't leak light), and other less than relevant issues discussed
in the last few months. If you can't do that and insist on messaging  me
then your heart and sense of fun need readjusting-use a size 11 metric!!

Hou die blink kant bo!!!!

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 00:25:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: chains, front/rear...

"Bubbles", our '60 SII, has double bar chains (very aggressive, probably not
roadworthy) fitted to the front only. I put them there for use in the early
spring/mud season time of year. They dig good, and work to get through the
top unfrozen layer of mud, finding the still frozen terra firma below. The
back wheels just pretty much follow in the ruts. It isn't really 'tread
lightly'. Mostly it's just around the farm or up in the woods, cutting the
next season's wood before the sap rises, or rescueing 'Nicky' as needed. So,
I don't have any experience with on-road use (at least above 10 mph or so)
and chains at the front. (Bubbles hardly has a clutch, also no brakes, and
almost never leaves low range). For manuvering about between trees and such,
it seems to work well, though. They seem to help when pulling and turning at
the same time (you can't really back up a 20-30 foot log on a chain). Did put
a nice gash in an inner wing when first fitted, but re-fitting and awareness
help now. This year I'll try them on the back, what the hell...
see 'ya on the old road...
jim  '61 88" W/ OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's & hubs (econobox?)  "Nicky"
       '60 88"    "Bubbles"
Bethel, Republic of Vermont
jdolan2109@aol.com
LR...."quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!"

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 00:32:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Commercially blatant...

And I was going to advertise our latest new startup company here. We're just
about up to full production capacities. We researched the market and found a
real void. So I guess I won't advertise our offering of split ring
lockwashers for reverse thread whitworth bolts. I guess our business is
doomed. And the prototype looked so nice, too... Guess we'll have to lay off
the monkey...
jim
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 23:30:51 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Hand throttle kit

Richard Ruffer wrote:

> I just installed a hand throttle in my D90 2 weeks ago.  snip
> The hand throttle was listed in one of RN's sales flyers. 

Well bugger them.  I looked into that about a year ago, called them up
and they told me it wouldn't work on a US D90.  I guess I should have
pushed the issue more or just gone ahead and done it.

Thanks a lot for the description.  Guess I'll give them another call
(or someone at any rate).

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 23:39:32 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: My Rover Leaks (*suprise*)

Chris Dow wrote:
> snip
> I guess the water on the seat was from the
> almost total absence of weather stripping around the driver's door top,
> but where's a likely source of the footwell water?  It seems to be
> coming in through the firewall somewhere.

I'll bet it's from the same source.  This leak pattern is identical to
what I get in my D90 from the top of the window after sitting in 
heavy wind/rain.

cheers

Jeremy

P.S.  All your messages echo.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 08:59:46 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: Help needed fitting Ammeter

John Cassidy wrote:
> I'm in the process of putting some new guages into my Series III.  Does
> anyone know if I can hook the +/- leads to the ammeter right to the
> connections on the starter solenoid, or do I have to hook in differently?

The thing you want to do is attach the ammeter on a wire with the 
dynamo/altinator and electrics on one side and the battery on the other.
The battery on the black- and the rest on the red+ side of the ammeter.

Dynamo --------------|
                     |
                     |            SS      |----|
Lights    -----------|--- +A- ----*=====+ |----| Battery
and the rest                      |
                                  |
Starter motor ====================|

The '==' represent the finger thick wires. (depends on your fingers I
guess)
SS = Start solenoid, the black thing that the thick wires are 2x
attached to.
A = the ammeter
So, what you need to do is find the solenoid, find the three small spade 
connectors. (my sIIa has three, one goes to the horn, one to the start
switch 
and one to the rest of the system. Yours might not have the horn/smoke
connector.)

Find the one that goes to the rest of the system and pull it off.
Attach the minus/-/black side of the ammeter to the (male) solenoid side
and
the plus/+/red side to (female) wire you pulled off.

If you haven't unleashed the wrath of the smoke gods, or the pod, for
attempting to 
measure his dark and ugly ways, then you should see the ammeter swing to
+ to indicate that the battery is being charged, and to - to indicate
discharging.
Don't forget to tag any electrons passing the ammeter, as they are very
rare in Land-Rovers. 

Note of warning: NEVER attach a hot (+) terminal directly to earth (-)
through the ammeter. It has a very low resistance and will show you that
welding on a car battery is possible...? It should always be inserted
between something using electricity and and the wire that was feeding it
electricity. 

Hope this helps,

Floris Houniet.
SIIa '69

Had an ammerter in my multimeter...hmmm...forgot to switch it over when
measuring the voltage on my battery.. oops.. cough cough...

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date:  Sun, 26 Jan 97 01:54:04 PST
Subject:  Re:  SIII Gearbox-outing

On 24 Jan. Adrian asked about removing his gearbox.

<I have never removed gearbox before, so i am interested in the recipe
<from anyone with hand-on experience.

<I know that I must first remove floor-plates, tunnel arch, and
<seat-box, but what then? what removals in what order?

Hi Adrian,
You can start by popping the steering wheel off to give yourself more
room to work, then after drainig the oil from the gearbox and transfer
box, undo the front and rear prop. shafts at the gearbox end and move
them aside. Remove the split pin from the transmission brake operating
lever. I think you also need to undo and remove the operating lever from
the chassis. Also, if your rig is LHD you'll need to remove the brake
lever cross shaft. Undo the three screws and withdraw the speedo cable.
Remove the two bolts from each of the gearbox mountings. Undo the two
bolts holding the slave cyl. to the bellhousing and withdraw the slave.
Be careful not to bend the pipe. If your truck is fitted with a gearbox
tie-rod this will need to be removed. Place a small block of wood
between the flywheel housing and the chassis crossmember then undo the
nuts securing the bellhousing to the engine. You can now move the
gearbox back until the input shaft clears the clutch then lift the lump
out.

<And what about the clutch, can the box be removed without disturbing
<the clutch hydraulics? 
Yes
<(Clutch is 2 yrs old and works fine, should this
<be replaced just because the gearbox is out or will it be ok for a
<while? Any comments?

Depending on your driving habits, the clutch can see little wear in
two years..., or be almost toast. I always like to replace the clutch
plate and release bearing when the gearbox is out. The old parts can
always be saved as spares. Whip the clutch off and check it out.

<Box will be rebuilt whilst it is out - should I consider installing
<overdrive at the same time, or can this be done later, without having
<to split the whole furniture again?

You can install an OD before or after refitting but it is a tight fit
putting the gearbox back in with the OD attached. More of a struggle
reconnecting the speedo cable too.

<And has anyone tried mounting a shorter stick on the gearbox (child in
<centre "deluxe" seat always conflicts with 2nd and 4th? Apart from
<originality, is there any good reason why a Series III stick couldn't
<be a short as a Massey-Ferguson 35 shift? Maybe it might wobble less at
<high speed?

Don't know.

<Any words of wisdom are welcome (though i am not trying to start
<another Overdrive flame war!

Good luck with removal and rebuild.

Brett
brstore@ibm.net

-- 
Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Literary Land Rovers
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 97 20:57:00 EST

Tony,  further to the following, my wife tells me that an American writer,
 Dean Koontz, usually has Rangies in his stories.  In a recent one she read,
the hero had to race his RR against an Exploder.  The RR won - of course!

Regards
Ron

>Does anyone know of other literary Land Rovers - no matter how
>improbable?  Should Mr. Hillerman receive a nasty letter from BMW for
>trademark infringement, as Imus did from Chrysler for using "jeep" in
>God's Other Son?

Tony,  I've just finished Dick Francis' latest novel, "Come to Grief". In 
this the
villain drives a blue Land Rover.  In fact he bought it from a company which
sold 250 LRs in one year!

A lot of Dick Francis books have LRs 'cos they are about the horse racing 
industry

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Gallons and Liters
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 97 20:57:00 EST

Here is part of an article I wrote last year for Hillmanews - Newsletter of 
the Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter:  Naturally, the gallons are 
"real" Imperial Gallons (4.54litres) not the US Gallon of  3.785 litres.

For RR/LR owners, I apologise for the reference to the Land Cruiser - I have 
since sold it to my son and repented with the purchase of TWO Rangies (one 
spare for when one stops??)

Please read also Peter Hirsch's bit at the bottom of the page.

Regards,

Ron Beckett

Litres/100km  mpg Conversion
OK, we own cars that use real measurements for fuel economy but the 
Government insists that car magazines must use metric measures to which we 
don't relate.  Because of the purchase of a Land Cruiser,  I wanted to know 
its real economy in mpg not this airy-fairy litres/100km guff so I decided 
to work out the conversion formulae.
There are four basic calculations we are interested in, viz., litres/100km 
to mpg (so we can understand the road tests we now read); litres per mile to 
mpg (so we can relate the fuel used and bought in litres to the distance 
travelled as shown on our Hillman odometers which are calibrated in miles), 
conversion to real figures (mpg) for our new metric cars and, perhaps, a 
conversion from mpg to litres/100km

I haven't calculated the less common km/litre because I don't know if any 
country uses it.  I've only seen it mentioned in an American software 
package which I bought and which was converted from mpg to km/l, for the 
Australian market, by merely changing the instances of "mpg" to "km/l"  I 
don't think they researched the market very well.

re Peter's comment "Sorry, we have only one kind of liters - what a poor 
continent!"
you will note that we, Down Under, use different *litres* 8->

Note in the formulae below, the / is the divide symbol.

Conversion of Litres/100km to mpg

UK mpg =  282.48 /  (l/100km figure)
US mpg =  235.24 /  (l/100km figure)

Conversion using litres and miles to mpg:

UK mpg  =  4.54609 x mileage /  litres used
US mpg  =  3.785  x mileage /  litres used

Conversion using litres and km to mpg:

UK mpg  =  2.8248 x km travelled /  litres used
US mpg  =  2.3524 x km travelled /  litres used

Conversion of mpg to litres/100km:

l/100km  =  282.48 / (UK mpg figure)
l/100km  = 235.24 / (US mpg figure)          

=========================================================
Tony Yates asked about conversion.

1 US gallon    3.785 liters
1 UK gallon    4.546 liters

Sorry, we have only one kind of liters - what a poor continent!

To convert from miles/gallon to liters/100 kilometers:

US:  235.24/miles per gallon = liters per 100 km
UK:  282.54/miles per gallon = liters per 100 km

and vice versa.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

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