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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: AOL postings.
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 12:41:02 +0100 (MET)

Bill writes:
| appetite for messages from *@aol.com, starting sometime on the 9th of
| January. I'll investigate as to why it is acting up, time permitting.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| 	However, I've not made any changes in the digesting software
| since July of last year, so it isn't due to anything I've done recently.

I had some problems in the past with my mails getting chewed up in the 
digest. I found out that my mailer (elm) set the contents-lenth in the
header to just the length of the header and so the digester kill the
whole message and only displayed the the subject.
May be this is something you might look after.

cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 07:21:46 -500
Subject: SU /Stromberg Carbs

Hello,
The recent SU vs Stromberg arguments leave me asking.  I assume 
these discussions are for the sidedraft D90 engine?  Or does there 
exist a downdraft SU/Stromberg variant applicable to the trusty 
2.25 petrol engine?  Mark    

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:35:38 +1100 (EST)
From: Dean Cording <Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au>
Subject: Re: ? Expanding fuel tanks on a 2A

On Sun, 12 Jan 1997 JmieWilson@aol.com wrote:

> The main advantage of this idea is that the look of a Landy using this setup
> would not change.  i.e. no need for extra gauges etc.

One way to have twin fuel guages is to install an aftermarket tempreture
guage (one that shows the actual tempreture) and use the original
tempreture guage as a second fuel guage.  The mechanism is exactly the
same, it's just that it measures from H to C instead of F to E.

Dean

=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

------------------------------

Subject: 16X7"-Military tires
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 07:12:09 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Does anyone know of a good source (or a source at all) for 7" wide, 16" 
rim Military tread tires.  Currently on  a '65 IIA 88".  If not are the 
7" wide tires easy to come by, or will I need to put new more standard 
rims on the vehicle?

Thanks-
KC

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:11:19 -500
Subject: Pigtail CurlyCues

The pigtail curlyCue tailgate chain anchors , you know the part. 
A most ingenious widget!  Do they allow one to quickly lower or 
remove the gate?  If the chains are removed, does the gate drop
vertical or get dinged up by the bumper as it falls away?  Mark    

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Capstan Winch Gearing
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:39:40 +0100 (MET)

Hello gang,
I recently talked with a friend about capstan winches and he 
thought we could probably make one for my 110 ourselves.
Can anyone provide me with some data? Especially how is the
gearing and what diameter (min. and max.) does the capstan have?
I don't know if we really try it, but so far it doesn't look
too bad.
Thanks,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Alain-Jean PARES <Alain-Jean.Pares@InfoRoute.CGS.Fr>
Subject: Head gasket removal
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 14:39:55 +0100

Hi

About blue smoke on my 2.25 Diesel.

Just bought in UK my gaskets Head Gasket, Exhaust manifold gasket, and top cover gasket

Now, I just have to work !!!
If you have any advice, don't keep it, please tell me

Alain-Jean PARES
Paris, FRANCE

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:45:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Gearing

Franz and others:

Las I heard, Surplus Center of Nebraska has 2500Lb
 12-volt capstan winches for sale for not a lot of cash.

 The shipping might be a killer, but it would be worth a
shot before actually building one of the beasts.

As far as gearing goes, my old Bellview is down about
 140:1 on its turns ratio. This is for a standard-type winch,
 but I can't see that a capstan's turns ratio would be all that different.

The cone for one looks to be about a 2:1 ratio from
 large end to center, with the bottom flare larger than the top.

If you're hunting surplus, seems to me like a right-angle
 gearbox would be a fine basis for such a project...and
likely available in that ratio. Or, you could get one with a
20:1 ratio and run that with a gearmotor...either way it can be done.

               aj"Have fun!"r

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:47:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Head gasket removal

Jean-Paul,

Don't bother pulling the manifolds to do a head gasket - the whole head
with manifolds attached can be removed with a helper - and it's a lot
faster to remove and replace the manifold gaskets on the bench if you
choose to.

                    Al R.

------------------------------

From: Alain-Jean PARES <Alain-Jean.Pares@InfoRoute.CGS.Fr>
Subject: RE: Head gasket removal
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:10:43 +0100

>Jean-Paul,

>Don't bother pulling the manifolds to do a head gasket - the whole head
>with manifolds attached can be removed with a helper - and it's a lot
>faster to remove and replace the manifold gaskets on the bench if you
>choose to.

  
Thanks for the tip, but, why do you call me Jean-Paul ???

Thanks again.

Alain-Jean PARES
88 Serie III Diesel RHD
Paris, FRANCE

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------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:16:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Head gasket removal

Re: Why do you call me Jean-Paul?

Because I was just talking to one of my friends who is named that, and the
brain didn't switch properly...

My apologies...

          ALan R..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 06:31:36 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Rangie heads  finally off

Paul
There is a good automotive machine shop in Monta Vista across the freway
from De Anza.  Ask the people at the machine shop what they recommend on
interior engine cleaning.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 06:31:44 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

At  6:30 AM 1/13/97 -0500, QROVER80@aol.com wrote:

>TeriAnn writes...
;
>>Hassleblad photographers would go in Mercedes, Lexus or Range Rover 4X4s.
>>(New, high quality, dependable, flashy) This is where exposing 5 rools of
;>120 film (60 images) is considered a very productive day.
>Does this mean that if I want to use my 1/2 frame Olympus I will have to get
>another Vespa ? :-)
;
Sounds like a dirt bike to me.  Everything pared down to the lightest
rugged essentuals.  Or so my friend who uses Minox cameras would say.

The APS owners would have a sub compact throw away 4X4 like the RAV4 or Geo
Tackker.  Kind of like a off road car but not really.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Rangie heads  finally off
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 06:50:53 -0000
From: "Jason B. Carroll" <jasonc@csdnet.com>

Paul-

  Congrats on getting it off! You are an inspiration to me! 
  So how does the rings and pistons look? Any evidence of any burnt 
valves or other problems with the heads?

--Jason B. Carroll
  1987 Range Rover (*cough*)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:03:08 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Rangie heads  finally off

>I Thought that the heads and inside the Vee looked pretty grungy. The
>push-rods had grunge on them as well. I figure that before I put evrything
>back together I need to try to clean out the bottom end.
>        I couldn't see any sign of a blown head gasket, and now am worrying
>about a crack in one of the heads.

Paul,

        With regards to your V8 questions.

1) Since your engine is a 3.5L, I'd look much closer at the cam and
lifters. I've torn a lot of them down and found engines with 11K miles
showing abnormal wear.If you don't know just what to look for,it's not
always easy to see. Did you pull each lifter out and look at each lobe and
lifter face carefully? You could have just one or two that flattened
out.Find one nice pointy looking one and compare it to the rest. If you're
used to the faily round nose of a 2.25 cam, a V8 cam may fool you. If you
see dimples on the lifter face or a circle within a circle, you have
trouble. Honestly, Paul, the chances of you having a 160K 3.5 engine with a
good cam are pretty slim.
         Also, your timing gear will be worn out in 160K - guaranteed. If I
were you, I'd take another step and pull the front cover and the cam for a
closer look. You can measure cam lift with withthe cam in place using a
dial indicator at the lifter. You should have .237" + or - .004" at the
cam.
        From the performance standpoint, the 3.5 cam is a low-lift,
emissions cam that hinders performance. For a couple of bills, you can have
a very mild Crane #850501 and a Cloyes True Roller chain #9-3132. The 3.9L
cam is another choice, it has slightly less duration but .250" cam lift
(about .400" gross), compared to .237" cam lift (.388" gross lift) on the
3.5L, and no worries about abmnormal wear.
        This factory cam, however, is about 2.5 times the cost of the Crane
and is not quite as good. If you do go aftermarket on a cam, stay in the
very mild range. Your low-compression engine will lose lots of low end
torque if you go much beyond the 194/202 duration (at .050" lift) and
.400/.416 gross lift of the Crane I mentioned. The 850501 is a close
approximation of a 3.9L cam and an excellent replacement for a stock
engine. The absolute max for a 3.5L, low comp EFI engine is Crane's #900531
(202/210 duration at .050" lift, .416/.432" gross lift), or equivalent. If
you bump uot to 9.35-1 pistons, the 900531 is the best choice.

2) If you're worried about grunge, pull the engine out and tear it down for
cleaning. That's the only 100% safe way. You're asking for trouble washing
it in situ because you can't get all the chunks you'll generate out of of
every crevasse between the V and the pan. The cleaning often generates more
life threatening crud than just leaving it alone What do you have, a little
sludge or is it that flakey substance. If it's sludge, leave it be. That
flacky stuff can be scraped/sucked with a light scraper and a vacuum
cleaner. I once wasted an engine being anal retentive about a little
grunge. It was the same situation as you, a high mileage engine that had a
few thousand miles left in it. It lasted 1200 miles after I cleaned it. I
found a piece of grunge blocking a main bearing oil feed!

3) Don't recall what your original problem was but I've never encountered
cracked heads on a Rover engine that had not been severly overheated or
wasn't very new. Assuming this is not the case, with your mileage, cracked
heads are very unlikely. The best way (really the only way unless a crack
happens to be visible) to check your aluminum heads is to have them
pressure tested. They pressurize them, dip them into water and watch for
leaks.
         Did you have combustion gas in your cooling system, verified by a
combustion gas test, or just an unknown loss of coolant? Range Rovers have
a multitude of ways for coolant to escape without the head gaskests being
the culprit. The head gaskets also tended to weep coolant (solvable by stop
leak - AlumaSeal usually).
        Leave the valves in for the machine shop. Presumably, you are
having a valve job done at a mere 160K! I hope you aren't thinking that you
can "lap and slap" the valves. Waste of time, really, at this mileage. If
you are not doing a valve job, just clean the carbon, don't mix the valves
or springs up and reassemble it with new valve stem seals.

4) Some advice. The process you are going through may be false economy on
an engine with 160K. It's doubtfull it would have made it much past 200K
without work anyway. How about a good freshening up now? Pull the engine,
clean it up, a set of bearings, rings (the cylinders hold up fairly well
usually, though you want to check), a valve job, a fresh cam, lifters and
timing chain plus an oil pump inspection wouldn't be an outragious cost.
You are halfway there now, laborwise. Most of what I detailed here can be
done for about a grand, assuming no upleasant surprises! Think about it!

        Jim Allen

> Paul
>Paul Archibald
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>"87 Range-Rover-160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak)
>Fly yellow '92 Ducati 750SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:08:55 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: SU /Stromberg Carbs

>The recent SU vs Stromberg arguments leave me asking.  I assume
>these discussions are for the sidedraft D90 engine?  Or does there
>exist a downdraft SU/Stromberg variant applicable to the trusty
>2.25 petrol engine?  Mark

Quintin Aspin (are you listening) mentioned some dual SU manifolds for the
2.25 engine. Wanna fill us in, Q? There is a downdraft Weber carb for the
2.25L, both in a factory application and aftermarket

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:26:26 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: 16" mil tires

Denman manufacturing makes US Military non-directional tires.
I believe they are in PA, USA somewhere. Couldn't find a web site for 
them.
I have a catalog at home of theirs, I'll try to remember to get a 
phone number tonight.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:32:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Original Literature

Was cleaning out the barn yesterday and came across some original literature for 
LR accessories circa 1959 (USA).  They're not in great shape but I figured I'd 
let people know in case they needed a copy for informational purposes.  I've got 
original catalog sheets for a Dormobile Conversion, Koenig Winches and Meyer 
Snow Plows (only half of that sheet).  They're not for sale or trade but I'd be 
happy to scan or copy if anyone needs them.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: RE: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 15:36:23 GMT

Well, I've entered a new "mode" of noise/vibration. Also decided getting it
all done professionally is financially impossible.
So I'm down to 3 options (buy refurb, through to refurb my own gearbox).
Now, my main worry is finding a hoist. They cost L150-L200+ new.
Renting;  If I was
to refurbish my own gearbox, I'd need it for 4-6 weeks (?more) - as I wouldn't
be able to return it with no gearbox fitted! (ie. looking for a cheap loan in
the Crawley area, or ideas...)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 16:46:10 +0100
Subject: Re: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

> Well, I've entered a new "mode" of noise/vibration. Also decided getting it
> all done professionally is financially impossible.
> So I'm down to 3 options (buy refurb, through to refurb my own gearbox).
> Now, my main worry is finding a hoist. They cost L150-L200+ new.

Getting a gearbox out of a SIII? Simple. Remove the interior. Find a
suitably long aluminium ladder. Thread through the doors. Tie the gearbox
to the ladder. Two people lift the ladder, move it out of the LR and
lower it onto the ground.

That's how I do it, except for overhauls in the field. There, simply
remove the ladder from the description above, and insert a pair of
sore backs.

TK
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:45:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: my annual visit to the dentist...

i have posted this tip before, but it is such a great
deal, i felt obligated to post it again.

when i go to the dentist for my annual cleaning, i walk
out with a free toothbrush and 5-6 old dental picks.
they are great for working on auto parts.  
the toothbrush they pass out is "soft" and i like the 
"hard" ones, so i use the freebe in the garage.
the toothbrush they give to everybody -- i have to ask for
the dental picks.  they discard them when they get dull or
the tip gets broken -- but they are still good for me.  in
the eastman's catalog, they are $9.95US for a pack of 4 and
i got 6 today.  we were laughing around after my visit and
he threw in an extra 5! of the soft toothbrushes just
cause i am such a good guy.

a small item, i am sure, but it makes me look forward to going
to the dentist...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder -- 61 siia 88 (lulu)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 08:56:26 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine noise

>Anyone know of any tips for decreasing diesel engine noise inside a SIIA 
>88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?

Brief background: My 109 5-door has no insulation, (so it can be hosed-out), 
so it's pretty loud, and cold. The current engine is a 2.25 diesel, which is 
QUIETER than the petrol it replaced. It is possible to carry-on a 
conversation without much straining. Top speed is 62, where the noise level 
is greatest, requiring voices to be elevated to be heard. The radio is 
actually useful.

Why it's quieter:  The engine was rebuilt by a marine shop, and may be 
better balanced than most (boat motors are bolted rigidly to the hulls, so 
balancing is important to longevity). I also made a new exhaust system, 
which I suspect is the major reason for the reduced noise level. It is 
entirely 1-1/2inch schedule-40 black-iron pipe, including the header, with a 
flexible bellows to isolate the rear section from the front. There are two 
mufflers, the forward one is a conventional "truck" muffler (2-inch in/out, 
6 inch dia x 24 inch long), and the back one is a "glass-pack", acting as a 
resonator. The greatest noise comes from the intake and the gearbox. Lug 
tires are also noisey. At 50mph, the body squeaks and rattles can be heard, 
the engine is a muted rattle, the gearbox is happily buzzing, and the heater 
is effective.

The exhaust system is certainly heavier than stock, but will be difficult to 
damage by rocks, etc. It took a lot of work and a hydraulic pipe-bender, but 
should last about forever.

John Ousterhout
'64 109

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 11:26:21 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

     
>Well, I've entered a new "mode" of noise/vibration. Also decided getting it 
>all done professionally is financially impossible.
>So I'm down to 3 options (buy refurb, through to refurb my own 
>gearbox). Now, my main worry is finding a hoist. They cost L150-L200+ 
>new. 

If its that much of a problem, dissasemble the main box from the 
transfer cas while its on the truck. That way it can be removed without 
pulling the seat box. 
If I did it this way I would still rent a hoist or whatever for the 
reinstall, since I think it'd be easier to reassemble the box properly 
if it was up on a bench. 
I had a manual chain hoist that we strapped to the rafters of the 
garage.
If you took your roof off you could rig up your hi-lift jack as a 
hoist...
Fact is, the gear box isn't really THAT heavy. I wouldn't want to pull 
one without some kind of lifting device though.
If you hire a crane you can always return it and then get it back when 
your ready to put it back in. 
This is easy stuff were talknig about . Don't be afraid just do it...
Good luck!

Cheers
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 11:29:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

     
     Here's a little something for those of you with coffee grinders where 
     there once was a transmission...
     
     OUR FRIEND THE GEARBOX
     
     When your gearbox is a grindin'
     And its popping out of gear
     You know what you'll be findin'
     So tell me what've you got to fear
     
     So quit that double triple/clutchin
     Nonsense!, I do say
     Its time to to do a rebuild 
     On that worn out box today
     
     Start by pullin up the floors 
     And the seats where your buttocks rest
     Get some friends to help you
     If their patience'll pass the test
     
     Now please, the manual you must obey
     For The Gearbox it does surely weigh
     Much more than the stoutest man could muster
     It's what they call a lemon buster
     
     It really isn't so bad you see 
     Its really quite a cinch
     But one word of advice my boy
     You mustn't a penny pinch
     
     Cause if you do then it won't be long 
     Before again you'll be singing this song
     So fix it once and fix it right
     You'll find it better to sleep at night
     
     But if the box again does spill its guts
     Please don't scream or shout
     Rest assured those seatbox bolts and nuts
     Will much easier come out...
     
     CHeers
     DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 12:23:26 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: More ??? on winches (was Re: Capstan Winch Gearing)

While we're on the topic:

>Las I heard, Surplus Center of Nebraska has 2500Lb
> 12-volt capstan winches for sale for not a lot of cash.

How about a phone number for this outfit--I want to get their catalog.

As Al Richer knows (see special .sig file below), I've been giving a lot of
thought to winches recently.  I'd been seriously thinking about a Ramsey
electro-hydraulic drum winch, but recently learned that electro-hydraulic
pumps have nearly the same duty cycle as pure electric winches--and I want
the ability to, for example, haul a bunch of logs out of a friends ravine.
Or as I witnessed at one of the non-sanctioned offroad runs at the
Mid-Atlantic rally, to pull 15 cars up a muddy hill one after the other.  I
couldn't believe that the guy was putting his new electic winch through
that type of torture.

Mechanical hydraulic seems to be the answer for duty cycle, but it's
useless if you're stalled out in the middle of a river.  What's the answer?
An elecrical pump in series with the mechanical pump--or in parallel behind
a valve so it must be deliberately brought into the circuit?  Not be so
paranoid and just ignore the totally stalled out scenario?  Don't bother
with a winch and just borrow/use Zipkin's Rover for all my winching needs?

Also, I'm beginning to consider mounting a plow frame on my Rover.  Not
that I'm going out to "get a route"--just so that I can clear my parents
250ft driveway of the wet gloop that we get so often in this area.  It's so
heavy that the snow-thrower is almost useless.  Anyhow, this seems to
require some type of hydraulics--leaning me towards having some type
hydraulic pump mounted.

I just got the January LROI and was intrigued by the dual-winchs on the
Russian mountaineering Rover.  Hmmm, that would solve my problem.  A
mechanical hydraulic capstan "working-winch" on the front and an either
electric or electro-hydraulic drum "self-recovery" winch on the
back--possibly integrated into a custom step-bumper with a removeable cover
to keep the winch clean and "out of the way".  Unfortunately, Eric Zipkin
says that if I mount two winches I'll exceed the gross vehicle weight for
free international Zippy-towing...I'd actually have to drive to Ottawa next
year!

Seriously, let's not overburden the list, but I'd love for those of you
who've given thought to such things to e-mail your opinions on drum vs.
capstan and electric vs. electro-hydraulic vs. mechanical hydraulic.  I
promise to summarize all the responses and post my findings to the
list...we might even get a "definitive" article for the RoverWeb out of it.

RoverOn!

Jeff

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	Ran into a chum with a bottle of rum
	And we wound up drinking all night
				--Jimmy Buffett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 12:45:02 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Pigtail CurlyCues

>If the chains are removed, does the gate drop
>vertical or get dinged up by the bumper as it falls away?

If you remove both chains the hinges, at least on mine, don't allow the
tailgate to go fully verticle--under it's own weight it doesn't fall very
much past horizontal.  It can then be pushed into a very useful-for-loading
near-verticle position--but the tailgate doesn't quite touch the bumper. In
my case the gate doesn't even touch the folding rear step or plate for the
receiver hitch.

For the record, my new genuine parts tailgate came with 4 sewn black vinyl
(fake leather) tubes--two for each chain as silencers.

By the way, if one chain slips off, you don't notice it, and you jump up
onto that side of the tailgate, you fall to the ground and the tailgate
gets tweeked a bit--though the tailgate can be quickly bent back into
shape, your bones and/or ligaments aren't quite so resiliant.  Don't ask...

***Of historical interest: The kit featuring the closed loops (for
manacles) and the leather rear-manacled-passenger silencers, which also
included matching leather silencers for the tailgate chains and the
manacles, was a Land-Rover approved third-party option for installation on
NADA vehicles destined for Greenwich Village, NYC...Hollywood, CA...and
Cambridge, MA.  Call Lanny at Rovers North and see if he has any of these
gems left--Part# SNM12567.***

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 11:47:37 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: More ??? on winches

Jeff writes:
snip
> Seriously, let's not overburden the list, but I'd love for those of you
> who've given thought to such things to e-mail your opinions on drum vs.
> capstan and electric vs. electro-hydraulic vs. mechanical hydraulic.
Don't forget, opinions are just that.
snip
>.we might even get a "definitive" article for the RoverWeb out of it.
> who've given thought to such things to e-mail your opinions on drum vs.
I'm working on just such a beast. I'm currently in the outlining and 
info collecting stage.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 12:54:07 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

>Or so my friend who uses Minox cameras would say.

Damn!  I thought I was safe.  I no longer own a Hasselblad (stolen from my
car when I was still living in Chicago--blew insurance money a lens for my
Canon A-1, plus booze and women), or any large or medium format photo gear.
I figured I was safe enough--it seems like 35mm and a Series Rover was an
acceptable combination.

Too bad I'd forgotten about my Minox B.  Now I really will have to go out
and buy that Vespa GS I wanted last summer--but didn't buy because of the
blown overdrive unit. (Or if TeriAnn is correct I'll need a "combat Wombat"
trailbike like all of the *lucky* kids had when I was growing up.)

These new photography rules are costing me money I ain't got--and I still
haven't replaced my overdrive!  Grrr...

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	Guidance Counselor said your scores are anti-heroic.
	Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet.
	--Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:07:08 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

QROVER80@aol.com wrote:
> TeriAnn writes...
> >Hassleblad photographers would go in Mercedes, Lexus or Range Rover 4X4s.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Does this mean that if I want to use my 1/2 frame Olympus I will have to get
> another Vespa ? :-)
As a working photographer I would recommend the following cameras as
highly compatible with the Series Land Rover

Stills - Canon F1N
Cine   - Arriflex 16BL

Both are of the same vintage as the series IIA and III, and appeal to
the user for the same reasons, they are heavy, noisy, electrically
unreliable in old-age, but they last forever.

Of course there's the Hasselblad - the best 4 x 5 x far!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:09:47 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Pigtail CurlyCues

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> The pigtail curlyCue tailgate chain anchors , you know the part.
> A most ingenious widget!  Do they allow one to quickly lower or
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> remove the gate?  If the chains are removed, does the gate drop
> vertical or get dinged up by the bumper as it falls away?  Mark
Most series III pickups have a dent in the bottom centre of the tailgate
where the towing ball hits the tailgate if the chains are removed - is
this dent a design feature?
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 13:10:47 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: More ??? on winches (was Re: Capstan Winch Gearing)

     
While we're on the topic:
     
>Las I heard, Surplus Center of Nebraska has 2500Lb
> 12-volt capstan winches for sale for not a lot of cash.
How about a phone number for this outfit--I want to get their catalog.
     
     1 800 488 3407
     24/7
     got my winch cable there. lots of goodies.
     later
     daveb.
     
As Al Richer knows (see special .sig file below), I've been giving a lot of 
thought to winches recently.  I'd been seriously thinking about a Ramsey 
electro-hydraulic drum winch, but recently learned that electro-hydraulic 
pumps have nearly the same duty cycle as pure electric winches--and I want 
the ability to, for example, haul a bunch of logs out of a friends ravine. 
Or as I witnessed at one of the non-sanctioned offroad runs at the 
Mid-Atlantic rally, to pull 15 cars up a muddy hill one after the other.  I 
couldn't believe that the guy was putting his new electic winch through 
that type of torture.
     
Mechanical hydraulic seems to be the answer for duty cycle, but it's 
useless if you're stalled out in the middle of a river.  What's the answer? 
An elecrical pump in series with the mechanical pump--or in parallel behind 
a valve so it must be deliberately brought into the circuit?  Not be so 
paranoid and just ignore the totally stalled out scenario?  Don't bother 
with a winch and just borrow/use Zipkin's Rover for all my winching needs?
     
Also, I'm beginning to consider mounting a plow frame on my Rover.  Not 
that I'm going out to "get a route"--just so that I can clear my parents 
250ft driveway of the wet gloop that we get so often in this area.  It's so 
heavy that the snow-thrower is almost useless.  Anyhow, this seems to 
require some type of hydraulics--leaning me towards having some type 
hydraulic pump mounted.
     
I just got the January LROI and was intrigued by the dual-winchs on the 
Russian mountaineering Rover.  Hmmm, that would solve my problem.  A 
mechanical hydraulic capstan "working-winch" on the front and an either 
electric or electro-hydraulic drum "self-recovery" winch on the 
back--possibly integrated into a custom step-bumper with a removeable cover 
to keep the winch clean and "out of the way".  Unfortunately, Eric Zipkin 
says that if I mount two winches I'll exceed the gross vehicle weight for 
free international Zippy-towing...I'd actually have to drive to Ottawa next 
year!
     
Seriously, let's not overburden the list, but I'd love for those of you 
who've given thought to such things to e-mail your opinions on drum vs. 
capstan and electric vs. electro-hydraulic vs. mechanical hydraulic.  I 
promise to summarize all the responses and post my findings to the 
list...we might even get a "definitive" article for the RoverWeb out of it.
     
RoverOn!
     
Jeff
     
==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
 Ran into a chum with a bottle of rum 
 And we wound up drinking all night
    --Jimmy Buffett
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:20:47 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Deep freeze

It's easy to tell when the weather is really cold outside...the amount of 
postings goes way up!

Deferring maintenance again....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:17:50 -500
Subject: Differentialia Rebuildia

Photo Jeff & Others,
1.1  I too thought I was safe with an old 35mm mechanical unit.
Have you considered going Disco Digital!

1.2  Differential Rebuild Discussion.
On recently setting up a domestic Dana differential, the manual calls
for a "special service tool" to measure the pinion to ring-gear-center 
dimension.  I do not have the tool, do not care to fab it, and think 
I have a better way (as usual).  Bear with me.  On Triumph and AH 
BugEye(FrogEye) "final drive units", I set things up and do a contact
patch wipe test on drive and coast conditions.  This appears to work
well, but I have always sold or wrecked the vehicle within 20k miles
of the rebuild.  Long term data is lacking.  These are GP open
differentials, quite simple.  Two things.  Can someone point out the 
error of my ways in relying on a contact patch method, if any?

Also, I always preferred the shim pack build-it-yourself method to the
later crush-sleeve-we-know-best method.  Should I be wary of a crush
sleeve method or am I just a stick-in-the-muddddd?

I believe the Land Rover open differential will be designed similar 
to the Triumph and Healeys.  We can all learn from this discussion.
Mark  

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:24:31 -500
Subject: Bungie Cord

Thanks for the pigtail comments. I was afraid to ask about alternate 
uses for the pigtails.  As for the tailgate music, I have a lot of 
bungie cording about.  I could make a loop, tying bungie ends at
the chain midpoints and looping the bungie midpoint to a block 
screwed into the instrument cluster.  Mark   

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 11:43:14 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Thermostat Testing

The Thermostat should be fully open at the rated temp. "Wax-stat" 
thermostats (looks like a miniature hydraulic cylinder that activates the 
valve) rely on a phase-change to work, so it all happens at one temperature, 
in theory. The hotter the water, the quicker the phase change takes place. 
The old design with a bellows used alcohol, and had a range of temperatures 
to reach fully open, but respond quicker. I haven't seen one in years.
JohnO

>Roverites,
>Regarding the recent thermostat questions, does anyone know at 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>indicated temperature?
>Mark  

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jan 97 13:53:01 EST
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Seat Belts--again

William H. Mitchell, Jr., asks for a supplier of seat belts for the L-R. J.C.
Whitney, Chicago, Illinois (312-431-6102) has a very good seat/shoulder belt
with retractor. I've had them in my '67 IIA 109" for about six years  with no
problems other than the dogs chewing on them once in a while. The short secured
end is built in a stiff plastic carrier about ten inches long so you can easily
find it and hook up when you have your winter togs on including the Barber coat
with lousy lining, this time of year.

I have no relationship with J C Whitless and recite the normal disclaimers,
other than living nearby and they have an interesting catalog full of all kinds
of "junk" to keep the British cars running!

Bill Kowalski
'67 L-R 109" IIA
'63 Austin-Healey BJ-7
53 RR Bentley "R"
(The last two are tucked away for the winter, the LR is the everyday vehicle)

------------------------------

Subject: digested AOL messages...
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 14:22:17 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

Hi folks,
	It seems AOL changed their mailer software over the weekend, and
(now this is really subtle) added the following to a Received: line in
the mail header '(from root@localhost)', this triggered a rule in the
awk scripts which then digested the mail that followed (on the presumption
that it was an error message).

	AOL messages should be back tomorrow.

	Cheers,
	-Bill
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 14:23:26 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: More ??? on winches

About my request for information on various winching technologies, and the
idea that we might put our heads together and do something to posted on the
WWW, Tom Rowe replied:

>I'm working on just such a beast. I'm currently in the outlining and
>info collecting stage.

This being the  case, would everyone, save those who have already responded
to me (thanks!), please just send your information to Tom and I'll
patiently wait for the results.

I'd forgotten he was working on the problem, and there seems to be no good
reason to duplicate his efforts, or force you to compose a message if
you've already sent information to Tom--I'm at least a few months away from
making any decisions.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 14:29:16 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: RE: Advise from Boston - Trefor

     Trefor,
     
        You didn't leave an address (email?)!
     
     Ray Scholl
     rscholl@lib.com
     1970 88" SIIA SW

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Manila Trip
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 07:13:00 EST

I am going to Manila on Sunday for a week on business.

If anyone wants to mail me, do so directly to my email address.
 I'll temporarily unsubscribe the LRO and RRO lists to prevent
 bogging down the mailbox.

Anything I should see or do in Manila?

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: SU carb
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 07:13:00 EST

> did not have the rubber diaphragm of the stromberg which is a
>constant source of failure problems.

>I too had a lot of problems with diaphragm that disintegrated. Then I
>consulted the local SOLEX company, and they told me that I NEVER should 
fill the
>carburettor with engine oil, as described in the LR manual. They have a
>special oil for this.

 Don't tell my Hillman this.  I've used nothing but engine oil in the 
dashpots since
I bought the car in 1971.  I recently replaced the diaphragms when I had the 
head
overhauled.  If I hadn't done the head, I wouldn't have done the carbies.
Admittedly, once the diaphragms came out, they wouldn't gone back in, they 
were
very distorted.

Regards
Ron Beckett
Editor, Hillmanews
Emu Plains, Australia
Fax +61 2 9339-6929
'83 Range Rover 3.5L manual (for sale)
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660   -  for pictures see
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Rangie heads  finally off
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 07:18:00 EST

> I can't figure a way to carry them on the Motorcycle ;^)

Easy, Paul. tie a rope and drag 'em along.  If you wanna reduce damage, tie 
them onto a skateboard.

See, we are to help 8->

Regards
Ron Beckett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:31:16 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Dashpot oil

Without question anyone who has dashpots on their carbs should have them 
filled with Marvel Mystery Oil.
No problems, mon.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:41:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Dashpot oil

On Mon, 13 Jan 1997, Adams, Bill wrote:

> Without question anyone who has dashpots on their carbs should have them 
> filled with Marvel Mystery Oil.
> No problems, mon.

	Always used ATF on the SU's in the Mini.  Worked great, even in -28c
	for weeks on end...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:30:20 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: Rangie heads  finally off

Sofar, I can't see any reason for the leaking coolant or pressurising the
coolant from the combustion chambers. The heads look in good condition. I
will take the head gaskets with me when I take them in to the shop.  I
haven't checked the valves yet. This, I will do tonight.
Paul
>  Congrats on getting it off! You are an inspiration to me!
>  So how does the rings and pistons look? Any evidence of any burnt
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>--Jason B. Carroll
>  1987 Range Rover (*cough*)

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, slowly but surely
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"in 'ospital" ;^(    (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:30:26 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re:  heads  finally off

Jim,
        My plan had been to just do the top-end  basics for now and save up
to do a complete rebuild in about eighteen months or so when it is closer
to 200,000 miles. Right now I am trying to keek the price down, due to lack
of funds and time. do you really think that it is such a bad idea to do
this? I am open to advice from anyone who might have some usefull input.
        Being in such a rush to get things going, I didn't do a wet compr.
check, so I don't know the condition of the rings, but the liners look
good. There is a very slight ridge at the top, but the walls still have the
cross-hatching pattern from the honing with no visable damage.

>1) Since your engine is a 3.5L, I'd look much closer at the cam and
lifters. I've torn a lot of them down and found engines with 11K miles
showing abnormal wear.If you don't know just what to look for,it's not
>always easy to see. Did you pull each lifter out and look at each lobe and
lifter face carefully? You could have just one or two that flattened
>out.Find one nice pointy looking one and compare it to the rest. If you're
used to the faily round nose of a 2.25 cam, a V8 cam may fool you. If you
>see dimples on the lifter face or a circle within a circle, you have
trouble. Honestly, Paul, the chances of you having a 160K 3.5 engine with a
>good cam are pretty slim.
        I only took out two lifters so far. They were ever-so-slightly
cupped. More visual than by feel, I think. which I thought was OK according
to the service manual. I will look at the others tonight. Is this a sigh of
a problem? I noticed that the lifters are more expensive than the Cam.
You have me worried about the cam lobes now. How "pointy" are they. I had
been looking more for signs of wear than flatter lobes.

>         Also, your timing gear will be worn out in 160K - guaranteed. If I
>were you, I'd take another step and pull the front cover and the cam for a
>closer look. You can measure cam lift with withthe cam in place using a
>dial indicator at the lifter. You should have .237" + or - .004" at the
>cam.
       That answers my "pointy" question, but I don't have a dial indicator ;^(
 But hopefully someone in the SF bay area does Hint Hint, anyone?

>        From the performance standpoint, the 3.5 cam is a low-lift,
>emissions cam that hinders performance. For a couple of bills, you can have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>(about .400" gross), compared to .237" cam lift (.388" gross lift) on the
>3.5L, and no worries about abmnormal wear.
        Do you mean that the Crane will have abnormal wear? or just that
fitting a 3.9 cam won't cause more wear than a 3.5 cam?
I have to admit a bit more power from a new, better profile cam sounds
appealing.
 How does this affect the emissions? After all it does have to pass CA smog
rules.

>2) If you're worried about grunge, pull the engine out and tear it down for
>cleaning. That's the only 100% safe way. You're asking for trouble washing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>grunge. It was the same situation as you, a high mileage engine that had a
>few thousand miles left in it. It lasted 1200 miles after I cleaned it. I
>found a piece of grunge blocking a main bearing oil feed!
You are making me re-thing things here. I am not sure what to do. It is
starting to look like maybe I should just repair the starter spring in the
trusty old '58 88" and just drive it for a few months until I have all the
funds to do a complete job.
The grunge I see is the flaky stuff in the Vee and some sludge in the heads
which will be taken care of as the heads are done. I think that I will
follow your advice and use the trusty six HP vacuum on the Vee.

>3) Don't recall what your original problem was but I've never encountered
>cracked heads on a Rover engine that had not been severly overheated or
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>pressure tested. They pressurize them, dip them into water and watch for
>leaks.
My origional problem was loss of coolant and pressurization of the coolant
system. I know the coolant wasn't just blowing past the overflow tank's
cap, because I could see coolant leaking from the flange where the cat
Y-pipe connects to the rear exhaust.( One of the bolts was loose!)
I expected to see one exhaust port to be visavly cleaner from all the
coolant cleaning it as it weno into the header, but no such thing. Strange!
When this happened on previous cars I have been able to see which port had
the leak due to the lake of carbon build up as in all the other ports.

>         Did you have combustion gas in your cooling system, verified by a
>combustion gas test, or just an unknown loss of coolant? Range Rovers have
>a multitude of ways for coolant to escape without the head gaskests being
>the culprit. The head gaskets also tended to weep coolant (solvable by stop
>leak - AlumaSeal usually).
See above. What is a combustion gas check? What are the other ways coolant
leaks and how to fix?
I assume you are talking about the gaskets leaking coolant outside, not
into the combustion chamber? How do you fis leaking into the comb. chamber
if the heads/top of block are straight, besides installing a new gasket?
        By the way why do they even call it a gasket? It's more like a thin
sheet of steel full of holes. It seems like a copper or 1/2 fiber gasket
with crushable steel rings to seal around the combustion chamber (like any
other engine I have ever seen) would work better. Is this typical of a V-8?

>        Leave the valves in for the machine shop. Presumably, you are
>having a valve job done at a mere 160K! I hope you aren't thinking that you
>can "lap and slap" the valves. Waste of time, really, at this mileage. If
>you are not doing a valve job, just clean the carbon, don't mix the valves
>or springs up and reassemble it with new valve stem seals.
        Again, I am on a tight budget, but thought lapping the valves, and
cleaning up the carbon, would be better than just sticking things back
together. If not true let me know. I have to admit there might be worn
guides/valves/seats that I have not noticed yet. Should I have this
checked?  I'll check into the cost of a valve job. I have a box full of
baggies and a magic marker to keep things from getting mixed up. The top
end kit comes with new seals-so I am told, I haven't opened the box yet.

>4) Some advice. The process you are going through may be false economy on
>an engine with 160K. It's doubtfull it would have made it much past 200K
>without work anyway. How about a good freshening up now? Pull the engine,
clean it up, a set of bearings, rings (the cylinders hold up fairly well
usually, though you want to check), a valve job, a fresh cam, lifters and
timing chain plus an oil pump inspection wouldn't be an outragious cost.
You are halfway there now, laborwise. Most of what I detailed here can be
>done for about a grand, assuming no upleasant surprises! Think about it!
        I understand what you are saying here and will have to do some
seriouse thinking before I go any further towards putting things back
together.

Paul

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, slowly but surely
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"in 'ospital" ;^(    (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 14:41:18 -0700
Subject: steering relay -- what is it? ;-)

Hi guys:

I'm not a native speaker of English, German in fact, and everybody I've asked  
so far had no idea what a steering relay might be and how difficult it is to  
replace if worn.  Why am I asking the latter if I don't even know what it is?

Well, I'm looking at buying a SIII 109", and I'm trying to find out in how  
much trouble I'm getting myself.. ;-)

Thanks in advance!

--
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>                      kuhtz@ix.netcom.com
Paranet, Inc.
http://www.paranet.com/         BOYCOTT INTERNET SPAM http://www.vix.com/spam 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:48:12 -0800
From: Ed Hall <goldnet@vegas.infi.net>
Subject: Need mechanic help - but not on my Land Rover

Ok all you mechanics out there, Lets see if we can figure this out.

	I have a 1979 Ford Van (I know I am asamed of myself, but I need
something else for when my Lany is getting its frame replaced this
summer)  It rund great, and starts cold with no problem.  If I started
it hot within a few minutes of turning it off, it will start right up. 
But if it sits for say about 15 minutes, then it will not start again
until it has cooled down completly, which might take and hour or more. 
What I know is that it is an Electric problem. (no spark, but will turn
over.)  So far we have replaced the Coil twice all the plugs and wires,
rewired the electronics, replaced the Electronic Egnition, the
Distributer.  So does any one have any ideas on what it can be?  I need
to get it fixed so I can get back to rebuilding my landy.  Thanks for
any and all ideas   Ed Hall

Ed Hall's Place on the Net
http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Marina/3912

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 14:28:43 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

At 08:15 AM 1/12/97 -0800, you wrote:
>If I were to associate field photographers with 4X4s, I would put large

And Polaroid users with Suzuki Samaris?  Subarus? Or Ford Taurus SHO?

Disposable 35mm = Rental car?

>I'd probably associate 35mm field photographers [...] This is where you go 
>out and shoot 5 rolls of 36 exposure film (180 images) and rush home to see 
>what you have.

Hey, I resemble that remark!  8^)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 17:39:25 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

>And Polaroid users with Suzuki Samaris?  Subarus? Or Ford Taurus SHO?

*DOH!*

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	Guidance Counselor said your scores are anti-heroic.
	Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet.
	--Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:54:56 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re:  heads  finally off

Paul said:

>        My plan had been to just do the top-end  basics for now and save up
>to do a complete rebuild in about eighteen months or so when it is closer
>to 200,000 miles. Right now I am trying to keek the price down, due to lack
>of funds and time. do you really think that it is such a bad idea to do
>this?

Jim Answers;

Honestly, yes. You're so close and if you can get your '58 going for now,
you'll have the time to do it right.

Jim Said>
>>1) Since your engine is a 3.5L, I'd look much closer at the cam and
>lifters. I've torn a lot of them down and found engines with 11K miles
>showing abnormal wear. Honestly, Paul, the chances of you having a 160K
>3.5 engine with a good cam are nonexisitant

Paul Said:
>        I only took out two lifters so far. They were ever-so-slightly
>cupped. More visual than by feel, I think. which I thought was OK according
>to the service manual.

Jim Replies:
Ever so slightly cupped means they are history. Lifters are convex (dished
out). If they are not dished out, they are worn out. When the lifters are
worn this way, the came lobes are shot also. Bad news! You don't need to do
a lift test at this point. I think you'll find more bad lifters, lobes and
maybe some very obviously bad ones. Start thinking about a new cam.

Jim Said:
>>        From the performance standpoint, the 3.5 cam is a low-lift,
>>emissions cam that hinders performance. (Jim spoke about the Crane #850501)

Paul replies:
>        Do you mean that the Crane will have abnormal wear? or just that
>fitting a 3.9 cam won't cause more wear than a 3.5 cam?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> How does this affect the emissions? After all it does have to pass CA smog
>rules.

Jim Answers:
        No, the Crane cam or the factory 3.9 cam will not have the abnormal
wear problems that the original 3.5L cam had. The Crane cam mentioned will
give you a noticable seat-o-the pants boost. As far as emissions goes, it
will not show up on your smog test - it's too mild for that. Technically,
it is illegal because it does not have a C.A.R.B. number on it.
Technically, only a factory replacement (3.5L) is a legal replacement,
however there is no way short of a teardowm that they can tell you've
changed it. Your choice.

Jim said:
>>2) If you're worried about grunge, pull the engine out and tear it down for
>>cleaning. That's the only 100% safe way.

Paul replies:
>You are making me re-thing things here. I am not sure what to do. It is
>starting to look like maybe I should just repair the starter spring in the
>trusty old '58 88" and just drive it for a few months until I have all the
>funds to do a complete job.

Jim says:
In my opinion, your best choice!

 Paul says:
>My origional problem was loss of coolant and pressurization of the coolant
>system. I know the coolant wasn't just blowing past the overflow tank's
>cap, because I could see coolant leaking from the flange where the cat
>Y-pipe connects to the rear exhaust.( One of the bolts was loose!)

Jim Says:

        I don't think the coolant came from inside the engine. Your comment
about the port probably verified this. The intake manifold gaskets were
known to leak coolant at the ends and drip down onto the exhaust when they
leak from the rear ends of the manifolds. Was there lots of green, crusty
stuff in the valley pan? Is there green crusty stuff on the bellhousing
rolling down the sides? As a precuation, I'd still have the heads pressure
tested because you don't want to take chances.

Jim Asked Earlier:
>>         Did you have combustion gas in your cooling system, verified by a
>>combustion gas test, or just an unknown loss of coolant? Range Rovers have
>>a multitude of ways for coolant to escape without the head gaskests being
>>the culprit. The head gaskets also tended to weep coolant

Paul Asked

>See above. What is a combustion gas check? What are the other ways coolant
>leaks and how to fix?
>I assume you are talking about the gaskets leaking coolant outside, not
>into the combustion chamber?

Jim Replies:
        Yes, the leaks are mostly outside. If you have coolant getting into
the combustion chamber, it will clean off the carbon on the piston crown
and combustion chamber. Is one  chamber a lot cleaner than another? If not,
odds are coolant hasn't been there. Also, the silicon in coolant will kill
your oxygen sensors. Is your EFI lite on? As far as sealing leaks go, there
are a multitude of tips that we'll save for reassembly. The '87 & 88 had
many probelms with apparent coolant loss because the overflow resWrvoir was
too small. If overfilled, it tended to puke out the excess. when if cooled,
it would appear to be low again. You can replace the reservoir with the
slightly bigger '89 tank or the huge '91 & up tank. Keeping the dinky tank
means filling it to just below the little tab when cold and checking only
when cold.

Paul comments on the tin V8 head gasket:
>        By the way why do they even call it a gasket? It's more like a thin
>sheet of steel full of holes. It seems like a copper or 1/2 fiber gasket
>with crushable steel rings to seal around the combustion chamber (like any
>other engine I have ever seen) would work better.

Jim Answers:
        Composite head gaskets are best but if you find and install one,
you will drop your compression ratio about 20% ( with an 8.13 engine, you
don't want to go lower). The tin crushes down to .020" and the composite
.045. The tin one can be used by spraying it with spray copper coat, two
coats worth. 'Course, you need a flat head (with your mileage, it will need
a .010 truing up) and a very clean block surface.

Jim Said:
>>        Leave the valves in for the machine shop. Presumably, you are
>>having a valve job done at a mere 160K! I hope you aren't thinking that you
>>can "lap and slap" the valves. Waste of time, really, at this mileage.
>other engine I have ever seen) would work better.

Paul said:
>        Again, I am on a tight budget, but thought lapping the valves, and
>cleaning up the carbon, would be better than just sticking things back
>together. If not true let me know.

Jim Replies:
        Odds are, you will have valves that are slightly burned. Lapping is
just a waste of time in this situation. A good, 3-angle valve job costs
$150 here in Grand Junction, not including extra parts.

Jim Said:
>> Some advice. The process you are going through may be false economy on
>>an engine with 160K. It's doubtfull it would have made it much past 200K
>>without work anyway. How about a good freshening up now?
>other engine I have ever seen) would work better.

Paul replied:
>        I understand what you are saying here and will have to do some
>serious thinking before I go any further towards putting things back
>together.

Finis:

Good idea. If you did a valve job, plus a cam and timing chain you'd be
ahead. You could even pull the jugs, hone the cylinders (after you've
checked them for excessive wear) and replace the rings and rod bearings.
This would get you another 50K easy and a good running engine to boot.
Still, your best bet is to do it right and all at once. Then you don't have
to have anotehr repair looming ahead and you can concentrate on having fun
with it.

Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: kma367@gsilink.com
Date:          Tue, 14 Jan 1997 07:50:32 +0000
Subject:       Optima

I still have the same optima in my 1985 SIII 88 SW.  It is 2 years 
old already.  I live in South east Asia presently.  So it is exposed 
to bad roads and hot humid temperatures, and stop and go driving
with the A/C full blast and relying only on a 28 amp/hour alternator.
I think the battery I have is a 800 cold crank amp version.

Ozzie Hernaez
1985 SIII 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 16:02:33 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

        I always felt that my old Hassy. 1000F Fit in well with the '58 88"
myself. They are both slow to use. Especially If you smash the glass on
your old  weston light-meter and spend 1/2 the time wiping up your blood
from everything you touch after.(see cameras are just like Rovers) I don't
know why I don't get a new meter, I broke the glass in '88 by leaving it on
the MGA seat and not thinking. I must be a lazy bugger ;^)
 Old, slow, and simple to use. I love them both.

>> TeriAnn writes...
>> >Hassleblad photographers would go in Mercedes, Lexus or Range Rover 4X4s.
        I don't think that the 1000F fits in with the Rangie at all, The
Nikon 4004s fits..has the same problems with electronics ;^) This must be
why I will always keep the old mechanical cameras/vehicles around.

>As a working photographer I would recommend the following cameras as
>highly compatible with the Series Land Rover

>Stills - Canon F1N
>Cine   - Arriflex 16BL

>Both are of the same vintage as the series IIA and III, and appeal to
>the user for the same reasons, they are heavy, noisy, electrically
>unreliable in old-age, but they last forever.
At least they still make most parts for the Canon, unlike old Nikons and
Hallelblads ;^(
>Of course there's the Hasselblad - the best 4 x 5 x far!
 of course!
Paul

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, slowly but surely
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"in 'ospital" ;^(    (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

------------------------------

From: "Dani K.A. Mansjoer" <dani-net@indo.net.id>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 07:09:49 +0700

UNSUBSCRIBE lro-digest

------------------------------

From: anieto@mofo.com (Nieto, Armando S., Jr.)
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 16:53:40 -0800
Subject: RE: Remote control on Disco

Jan,

I had a similar problem with my 96 Disco although mine happened at a warm   
 temperature (50-60 degrees, I live in San Francisco, CA USA). I took it   
to the dealer and they replaced a solenoid that controls the lock and now   
it seems to work OK. They also informed me of  a "firmware" upgrade to   
the alarm remote. I did not question this further however you may want to   
ask your dealer about it.

Armando
96 Disco "Higgins"

 ----------
From:  Land-Rover-Owner[SMTP:Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Saturday, January 11, 1997 5:35 AM
Subject:  Remote control on Disco

On my -96 Disco I have had trouble with the remote control for the
central lock/alarm system. This was from the beginning. I bought the car
in Nov. 96. The system seems very insensible and especially in cold
weather (below -5=B0C) it is sometimes impossible to get a reaction from
the lock.
The service station har looked upon it and cannot see anything wrong.
Has anyone the same experience? Advice?

Jan

Jan Engborg, M.D.
General medicine
Sandviken, Sweden
engborg@swipnet.se

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<anieto@mofo.com>; Sat, 11 Jan 1997 02:42:58 -0800 (PST)
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1997
02:45:13 -0800 (PST)
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02:11:52
 -0800
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 12:17:19 +0100
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@swipnet.se>
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Subject: Remote control on Disco
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.19474.19970111021152@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 13 Jan 97 15:43:09 MST
Subject: Re:  heads  finally off

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Lifters and cam are both available through Crane cams, and probably
others as well. Lifters are not "oddball" and shouldn't cost more than
any others.

Make sure what ever cam you put in works with the EFI (Computer). First
one I tried DID NOT work and I had to re-do the cam and lifters. :-(

Replacing the timing chain & gears cam and lifters is DEFINITELY a good
idea!!

Agree with Paul on all his points! Please don't scrimp too much, a few
dollars spent now will save you a bunch more later!! I too am on a
budget (tight) but the engine, especially the aluminum 3.5 is no place
to cut corners!

Good luck... If you need crane part numbers or what ever, I can get that
for you, but probably best to call them, they might have more offerings
now, and you can verify that what they sell you will work with the EFI.
There are also other cam manufacturers...

Dave...

Habit is the best of servants,       #=======#         _____l___
or the worst of masters.             |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
- Nathaniel Emmens                   | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
-                                    "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)
=========================================================================
X-Sender: paarch@popd.ix.netcom.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:30:26 -0800
        <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re:  heads  finally off

Jim,
        My plan had been to just do the top-end  basics for now and save up
to do a complete rebuild in about eighteen months or so when it is closer
to 200,000 miles. Right now I am trying to keek the price down, due to lack
of funds and time. do you really think that it is such a bad idea to do
this? I am open to advice from anyone who might have some usefull input.
        Being in such a rush to get things going, I didn't do a wet compr.
check, so I don't know the condition of the rings, but the liners look
good. There is a very slight ridge at the top, but the walls still have the
cross-hatching pattern from the honing with no visable damage.

>1) Since your engine is a 3.5L, I'd look much closer at the cam and
lifters. I've torn a lot of them down and found engines with 11K miles
showing abnormal wear.If you don't know just what to look for,it's not
>always easy to see. Did you pull each lifter out and look at each lobe and
lifter face carefully? You could have just one or two that flattened
>out.Find one nice pointy looking one and compare it to the rest. If you're
used to the faily round nose of a 2.25 cam, a V8 cam may fool you. If you
>see dimples on the lifter face or a circle within a circle, you have
trouble. Honestly, Paul, the chances of you having a 160K 3.5 engine with a
>good cam are pretty slim.
        I only took out two lifters so far. They were ever-so-slightly
cupped. More visual than by feel, I think. which I thought was OK according
to the service manual. I will look at the others tonight. Is this a sigh of
a problem? I noticed that the lifters are more expensive than the Cam.
You have me worried about the cam lobes now. How "pointy" are they. I had
been looking more for signs of wear than flatter lobes.

>         Also, your timing gear will be worn out in 160K - guaranteed. If I
>were you, I'd take another step and pull the front cover and the cam for a
>closer look. You can measure cam lift with withthe cam in place using a
>dial indicator at the lifter. You should have .237" + or - .004" at the
>cam.
       That answers my "pointy" question, but I don't have a dial indicator ;^(
 But hopefully someone in the SF bay area does Hint Hint, anyone?

>        From the performance standpoint, the 3.5 cam is a low-lift,
>emissions cam that hinders performance. For a couple of bills, you can have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>(about .400" gross), compared to .237" cam lift (.388" gross lift) on the
>3.5L, and no worries about abmnormal wear.
        Do you mean that the Crane will have abnormal wear? or just that
fitting a 3.9 cam won't cause more wear than a 3.5 cam?
I have to admit a bit more power from a new, better profile cam sounds
appealing.
 How does this affect the emissions? After all it does have to pass CA smog
rules.

>2) If you're worried about grunge, pull the engine out and tear it down for
>cleaning. That's the only 100% safe way. You're asking for trouble washing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>grunge. It was the same situation as you, a high mileage engine that had a
>few thousand miles left in it. It lasted 1200 miles after I cleaned it. I
>found a piece of grunge blocking a main bearing oil feed!
You are making me re-thing things here. I am not sure what to do. It is
starting to look like maybe I should just repair the starter spring in the
trusty old '58 88" and just drive it for a few months until I have all the
funds to do a complete job.
The grunge I see is the flaky stuff in the Vee and some sludge in the heads
which will be taken care of as the heads are done. I think that I will
follow your advice and use the trusty six HP vacuum on the Vee.

>3) Don't recall what your original problem was but I've never encountered
>cracked heads on a Rover engine that had not been severly overheated or
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>pressure tested. They pressurize them, dip them into water and watch for
>leaks.
My origional problem was loss of coolant and pressurization of the coolant
system. I know the coolant wasn't just blowing past the overflow tank's
cap, because I could see coolant leaking from the flange where the cat
Y-pipe connects to the rear exhaust.( One of the bolts was loose!)
I expected to see one exhaust port to be visavly cleaner from all the
coolant cleaning it as it weno into the header, but no such thing. Strange!
When this happened on previous cars I have been able to see which port had
the leak due to the lake of carbon build up as in all the other ports.

>         Did you have combustion gas in your cooling system, verified by a
>combustion gas test, or just an unknown loss of coolant? Range Rovers have
>a multitude of ways for coolant to escape without the head gaskests being
>the culprit. The head gaskets also tended to weep coolant (solvable by stop
>leak - AlumaSeal usually).
See above. What is a combustion gas check? What are the other ways coolant
leaks and how to fix?
I assume you are talking about the gaskets leaking coolant outside, not
into the combustion chamber? How do you fis leaking into the comb. chamber
if the heads/top of block are straight, besides installing a new gasket?
        By the way why do they even call it a gasket? It's more like a thin
sheet of steel full of holes. It seems like a copper or 1/2 fiber gasket
with crushable steel rings to seal around the combustion chamber (like any
other engine I have ever seen) would work better. Is this typical of a V-8?

>        Leave the valves in for the machine shop. Presumably, you are
>having a valve job done at a mere 160K! I hope you aren't thinking that you
>can "lap and slap" the valves. Waste of time, really, at this mileage. If
>you are not doing a valve job, just clean the carbon, don't mix the valves
>or springs up and reassemble it with new valve stem seals.
        Again, I am on a tight budget, but thought lapping the valves, and
cleaning up the carbon, would be better than just sticking things back
together. If not true let me know. I have to admit there might be worn
guides/valves/seats that I have not noticed yet. Should I have this
checked?  I'll check into the cost of a valve job. I have a box full of
baggies and a magic marker to keep things from getting mixed up. The top
end kit comes with new seals-so I am told, I haven't opened the box yet.

>4) Some advice. The process you are going through may be false economy on
>an engine with 160K. It's doubtfull it would have made it much past 200K
>without work anyway. How about a good freshening up now? Pull the engine,
clean it up, a set of bearings, rings (the cylinders hold up fairly well
usually, though you want to check), a valve job, a fresh cam, lifters and
timing chain plus an oil pump inspection wouldn't be an outragious cost.
You are halfway there now, laborwise. Most of what I detailed here can be
>done for about a grand, assuming no upleasant surprises! Think about it!
        I understand what you are saying here and will have to do some
seriouse thinking before I go any further towards putting things back
together.

Paul

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, slowly but surely
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"in 'ospital" ;^(    (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:43:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

Polaroid users would of course be driving RENTAL cars. :-)
Rgds Quintin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 21:41:49 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Loctite

Hi all - yesterday I removed the top seat belt attachment brackets from the 
pickup cap and with some drilling and cutting they are ready to go into the SW. 
There was Loctite on the original fittings so I was going to do the same. A tiny 
tube of Loctite (5ml, 0.2 fl.oz) costs the equivalent of US$ 46.00 here from 
NAPA. While I expect things to be a bit more expensive down here, is this even 
remotely in the ballpark with the cost in the US?  
Cheers,
Allan.

  
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jan 97 20:54:29 EST
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Self-Induced Rover Problems

All:

This past weekend I took my 72 88 on a trip from Va. Beach to Boston, Portland
Me. and back.  On the way up I had a hand made wooden display case strapped to
the roof and coming home I was towing a pretty good sized trailer.  While
touring in Maine I saw a grey sII 88 with a hardtop on a trailer being towed by
a pickup truck through Lisbon Falls - it looked like someone just made a
purchase.  The only problem I had with the whole trip is that I left my gas cap
at a station in Portland, Me. just as I was leaving and they don't seem to have
it right now.  Does anybody out there have a SIII gas cap that they want to
sell?  If so please e-mail me directly.

See ya on the road.  Steve.
(72 SIII 88, 4x5 speed graphic, 4x5 cambo view)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:51:57 +0800
From: sgtan@pc.jaring.my (Chris & Faith)
Subject: Re: Mpi Discovery (2.0 litre)

Help! Is anyone familiar with this engine ( Mpi) for  the Disco? I've been
having some oil leaks. First the front crankshaft oil seal and the rear cam
shaft oil seal. Got that fixed. Now the front camshaft oilseal is leaking.
Some one suggested checking if the eng breather tube is blocked. Does the
Mpi have one? I can't find it! And the workshop manual doesn't show one!
Any suggestions?

Chris Tan

Chris & Faith

------------------------------

From: "V. Bryan" <vbryan@cybersim.com>
Subject: Re: Loctite
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 20:44:12 -0000

Loctite is U.S. $4.97 for the same tube at Hi-Lo Auto Parts located in
Houston, TX.  Currently thinking of going into Loctite export business
myself.

Virgil Bryan
League City, TX
USA

----------
> From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Date: Tuesday, January 14, 1997 2:41 AM
> Hi all - yesterday I removed the top seat belt attachment brackets from
the 
> pickup cap and with some drilling and cutting they are ready to go into
the SW. 
> There was Loctite on the original fittings so I was going to do the same.
A tiny 
> tube of Loctite (5ml, 0.2 fl.oz) costs the equivalent of US$ 46.00 here
from 
> NAPA. While I expect things to be a bit more expensive down here, is this
even 
> remotely in the ballpark with the cost in the US?  
> Cheers,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Tel +(758) 454 6060
> Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 12 Jan 97 22:03:16 +0000
Subject: Roof linings???

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) 
Anyone any thoughts on roof linings?? 
 
I'd like one, but not sure whether to just use carpet or buy one! 
 
Lenny.... 
_____________________________________________________________________________
    
  Lenny Warren, 
  Strathaven, Scotland.
  1981 ser III 88" SW (coming soon!)
_____________________________________________________________________________

... Rimmer: You're about as much use as a condom machine in the Vatican.
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:03:03 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Land-Rover Factory

I remember a large Land-Rover "building or Warehouse" in Bankok Thailand in
the mid to late 60`s.  Was this plant used to assemble Rovers for Vietnam or
for the country of Thailand?  Did Land-Rover have assembly plants other than
England?  I also remember seeing a few Series Land-Rovers about the streets
of Bangkok.  It would be interesting to see if any still exist.
John Cooper 1969 11a

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:03:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine noise

On Sat, 11 Jan 1997, Keith W. Cooper wrote:

> Anyone know of any tips for decreasing diesel engine noise inside a SIIA 
> 88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> 88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?
> KC
	Sure!  Replace said diesel engine with a 2.25L petrol engine!  
(Sorry, Couldn't resist!)  Maybe buy a louder stereo?
Seriously, Try looking for the ads in LROI or LRW for BJ Acoustics.

Michael Roberts
Portland (Vernonia), OR

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 22:18:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: More ??? on winches (was Re: Capstan Winch Gearing)

On Mon, 13 Jan 1997, Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> wrote:
 Don't bother
>with a winch and just borrow/use Zipkin's Rover for all my winching needs?

Sorry, "Zippy-Tow" only applies to towing requiring a trailer ball....:)
The winch is reserved for folks blocking forward movement on the trail...

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 18:43:58 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> I'd probably associate 35mm field photographers with Jeeps, Toyotas and
> Discoverys.

Hmmm. Where does that leave a Leica 111f user?

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:08:08 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: More ??? on winches (was Re: Capstan Winch Gearing)

Jeffrey A Berg wrote:

> Mechanical hydraulic seems to be the answer for duty cycle, but it's
> useless if you're stalled out in the middle of a river.  What's the answer?

How about briggs and stratton power? Could position a portable unit for front or 
rear recovery and leave the thing in the garage when the LR is doing grocery 
getter duty.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 22:44:56 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Hard top, K&N and FWH on a Slll Lightweight

1.	Hardtop.
Yes, you can install a standard 88 hardtop on the Lightweight.  But, It will overhang on the sides 
about 3/8" (1 cm).  This is not a problem except for where the door seals go.  You can squeeze in 
the bottom of the hard top sides at the front behind the doors, which ends up looking stupid and 
making the rear door glass hard to move.  Or, you can leave the overhang even along the sides, and 
make new weather strip pieces for each side.  The new pieces are easy to make out of aluminium, and 
they look and work much better.  Everything else will bolt up well including a rear safari door. 

2.	K&N air filter.
Yes, Not Recommended.  I installed the Weber dual-choke carb on mine, and it came with the K&N.  
Sure, it makes the Rover air intake sound kind of neat (like a turboprop airplane), but after 
soaking and sqeezing and oiling and soaking and squeezing and oiling and soaking and squeezing and 
oiling and wheezing after every single off-road trip, or just a trip down a dusty road, I realized 
there had to be a better way.  Perhaps an air cleaner that had a built in supply of oil.  In fact I 
already had just the thing: the original Land Rover oil bath filter.  Goes about 100 times farther 
before cleanouts, is quieter, and of all things is original.   Sure the K&N gives a little more 
power (I'd guess about .75 hp), but I own a Land Rover becuase it can more easily survive in harsh 
environments, where other vehicles may not.  So why take away that toughness for an itty bit of 
increased power? 

I gave my K&N to a friend(?) who put it on his Toyot*.  There it was a decided improvement.

3.	Freewheeling Hubs.
Been there. Done that.  Not advised to do it again.   I also bought some standard 24-spline hubs 
for my Lightweight, then found I would have to change out the stub shafts for civvy ones.   Sounds 
easy enough, but on the other hand, why should I spend hundreds of dollars to change stub shafts, 
install the hubs, and then have to get out of the vehicle, and into the mud (or snow) when I wanted 
four-wheel drive?   

So then I found that freewheeling hubs are not nearly as tough as the original SOLID STEEL drive 
flanges (most freewheeling hubs I've seen have aluminum and plastic parts), the swivel pins and oil 
seals (all four of them) and U-joints, splines, and diff gears no longer get properly lubricated 
when they are disengaged (Believe me, my Land Rover lives for lubrication).  And then you'll have 
loose steering, strangely worn tyres, and leaking swivel seals (always lots of fun!). The hubs will 
leak oil more than ever before, and sand and grit will get in them and you'll have to use a pipe 
wrench to turn 'em.   At this point it's better to just leave them locked in (engaged) all the 
time.  So why bother?

I bought my Land Rover so I would have a tough, simple, reliable off-roader, not a Japanese 
econo-box. 

I would be glad to offer additional detailed advice on the Hardtop, email me directly.

Garret Scott KB4QGN
Lightweight "Nigel"

scottgs@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 22:17:03 -0600
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: FBI +  "RoverWorks" 

An FBI agent by the name of Bill Newton [914-564-0277] has asked me 
to share with him, in his investigation, information regarding the names 
of other victims of RoverWorks, Hyde Park N. Y.  He has a list of 
approximently 20 thus far and would like to hear from any other victims. 
 If you are or know of anyone else who is a victim contact Agent Newton. 
While it may be easy to believe that there is no JUSTICE...and only LAW, 
Perhaps something will come of the investigation. 
	Peace,
	Paul Hanson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 21:15:31 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Hard top, K&N and FWH on a Slll Lightweight

>Garret Scott KB4QGN
>Lightweight "Nigel"
>scottgs@usit.net

Garrett Said in response to a question:

     K&N air filter.
>Yes, Not Recommended.  I installed the Weber dual-choke carb on mine, and
>it came with the K&N.
  but after
>soaking and sqeezing and oiling and soaking and squeezing and oiling and
>soaking and squeezing and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>toughness for an itty bit of
>increased power?

Say Garrett:

        Did you ever try reading the manual on cleaning your K&N? They
recommend up to 100,000 miles on a street filter between cleaning. About
1/4th that in more severe conditions or once per Baja 1000 race. You sure
wasted your time cleaning it after every trip.I have personally tested an
K&N on a flow bench that had more than 1/4 inch of dirt coating it - it
still outflowed the LR oil bath by 200%!
        As to the .75hp, I have dyno tested Range Rovers and Discoverys and
a K&N alone was worth 5-5.5 hp (that's about $6/hp) and a 3% improvement.
If the 3% follows to a 2.25, that's about 2.43hp. Haven't dynoed a 2.25L to
test this but have a lot of seat-o-the pants experience with at least 10
test vehicles that tells me the engine breathes better. My old souped up
'72 2.25 couldn't draw through the stock oil bath. At about 3500rpm under a
load, it simply stopped breathing. Put the K&N back on and wapaaaaaaaaaa
right to the rev limit.
        I do agree, however, that the K&N on the Weber 2bbl conversion is a
bit loud - or perhaps the Land Rover is under-soundproofed.
        As to longevity, I've had K&Ns on all my vehicles since the mid
1980s and they usually outlast me.The longest I had one was 10 years on my
old 2A. I clean 'em about once a year, whether they need it or not.
        There are several K&N numbers that work on stock carbed Land Rover.
I've posted this info a couple of times. The noise isn't bad at all on a
1bbl and your rpm range is extended a bit. I found a slight gain in fuel
economy also.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 21:10:18 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Stud nuts and view cameras

At  6:43 PM 1/13/97 -0800, Greg Moore wrote:
;
>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
;
>> I'd probably associate 35mm field photographers with Jeeps, Toyotas and
>> Discoverys.
;Hmmm. Where does that leave a Leica 111f user?
;
>Cheers, Greg
;
Top of the line expensive Jeeps Toyotas & an upgrade to a Range Rover

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 22:14:54 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Deep freeze

On Mon, 13 Jan 1997, "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> wrote:

>It's easy to tell when the weather is really cold outside...the amount of 
>postings goes way up!
>Deferring maintenance again....

Thats more generous than my conclusion about the variation in postings. Office 
hours = postings; holidays and weekends = significant drop in postings, just at 
a time when LR work and hence associated enquiries should be at a maximum. It 
seems that quite a number of people actually deal with their LR mail while at 
work!

Deferring the job again....

>.

De

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 00:44:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Flywheel housing identification

Hi all,

Just out lying on the ground looking up at LR flywheel housings and I noticed
that the SIII housing and late IIa housing have radial ribs on the housing
but my slightly earlier IIa has a flat non-ribbed surface.  When did the
flywheel housing change and does it indicate a difference in any internal
mechanisms (clutch mechanism, flywheel, or other components of the rear of
the engine).

Thanks

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 09:13:17 +0200
From: Frank Bokhorst <bokkie@uctvms.uct.ac.za>
Subject: Re: 4x4 and 4x5 (View Cameras)

Hi, you wrote: 

> If I were to associate field photographers with 4X4s, I would put large
> format photographers with series and Defender Land Rovers.

Sure, mine is a 1957 SI and a 4x5 rail-mounted Graflex.  However, you
forgot the 35mm rangefinder Leica. If you have ever held a Leica M2 
camera body in your hands, you'll know what I mean!

Frank Bokhorst       personal e-mail: bokkie@psipsy.uct.ac.za
Psychology Dept.
University of Cape Town

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: steering relay -- what is it? ;-)
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:20:42 +0100 (MET)

hei Christian,
| I'm not a native speaker of English, German in fact, and everybody I've asked  
| so far had no idea what a steering relay might be and how difficult it is to  
| replace if worn.  Why am I asking the latter if I don't even know what it is?
das relay ist die umlenkung der lenkung die im vorderen rahmenquertr"ager
steckt. eigentlich nur ein gussgeh"ause mit einer achse und zwei gleitlagern,
mit einer feder dazwischen (achtung! 45kg druck!) die diese auf die zwei konuse 
der achse presst. den unteren teil der achse siehst du wenn du vorn unter die 
stossstange schaust (das ding mit dem hebelarm, an dem die schubstange der
lenkung ansetzt).
es kann ein verdammt ekelhaftes teil sein, wenn's schon l"anger nicht ausgebaut 
wurde (ist meistens der fall). hab's mal bei einem freund zerlegt, weil wir das
geh"ause nicht rausgekriegt haben. war fast 6h arbeit (n"aheres auf anfrage).

servus,
franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:25:34 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate chain music & misc ramblings

At 01:11 AM 1/13/97 -0700, Christian Kuhtz wrote:

>"A Close Shave" is *much* better.   Cleaner animation, better plot, more  
>cheese, lots of porridge.

And, it has the "Baddog-Wobot!" as my 2-yr-old niece calls it.  She makes
her hands into claws and screws up her face and goes marching around the
room scaring everyone -- until the tape is done "'winding".

I think she even likes "Gwomit" better than "Buzzlightyear".

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:25:37 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: my annual visit to the dentist...

At 09:45 AM 1/13/97 -0600, you wrote:
>when i go to the dentist for my annual cleaning, i walk
>out with a free toothbrush and 5-6 old dental picks.

That's a great tip!  I just went, but luckily I'm on the 4 month plan so I
can ask in May...  

Btw...  My dental tip:  Get a Braun/Oral-B electric toothbrush.  Changed my
dental cleanings from an 1.5 hour nightmare of blood and pain into a 45
minute chat with a cute aussie.  Believe me, it made a major difference in
my dental health.  (I have no connection to Braun or Oral-B except
everybody's getting their toothbrushes for christmas next year!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:25:47 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Pigtail CurlyCues

At 12:45 PM 1/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>If the chains are removed, does the gate drop
>>vertical or get dinged up by the bumper as it falls away?

On mine, the gate would hit the towball if you just let it drop.  If you
don't have a towball that's not a problem.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: steering relay -- what is it? ;-)
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:22:30 +0100 (MET)

Ouuups! Sorry, the German message was intended to go to Christan
directly.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de

------------------------------

From: "Thorsten Edgar Klein" <kleit001@goofy.uni-mainz.de>
Subject: Re: 16X7"-Military tires
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:55:19 +0100

I know only one firm who still produce 7.00-16 Tires. This is FULDA in
Germany. Their treat is something like the Michelin sand tires or
Lighttruck tires. I Know this because a friend of mine is hunting for tires
in this size the last two years.

Which Rims has your 88? The 5 inch or the 5.5 inch wides. If they are the
second type, I would go to 7.50-16 Tyres. If you would use 7.50-16 on the
smaller rims it could be a problem with low pressure driving.

Hope this helps 

Thorsten Klein         kleit001@goofy.zdv.uni-mainz.de
Mainz, Germany
LR SIII Lightweight

----------
> Von: Keith W. Cooper <kwcooper@aristotle.net>
> An: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Thanks-
> KC

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: RE: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? (fwd)
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 9:21:02 GMT

Well, everybody, I've been persuaded to do my own gearbox!

This is what the people on CIX (where I have a personal account) were also
saying, although someone said, buy one, refurbish it, swap, refurbish the old
on, and flog!

Last night at t'pub, I also managed to persuade someone to help - bribed by
large quantities of Guinness, which will no doubt go down well here
(why the connection? Guinness and LR are from different countries! Hob-nobs,
well that's different...)
 
Still not sure how we're going to lift it out, but we'll find something...

Now I'll be posting lots of cog questions over the next 6 weeks / 2months...
 
Different question: Tow ropes: Nylon or polypropylene? I see LRW have
a special offer for polyP rope with shackles. My old rope is already 
fraying (not sure if its polyP or nylon) - mainly because of the lack of
a shackle (a long story). L25 I think including, wait for it, gloves!
Any good?
Seeing that the reader offer was for some carbon steel taps & dies, maybe
this isn't quite such a good deal? One thing my father has TAPped into
me, is investment in good tools - they should be able to outlive you and
could save your life (okay, its hard to see how with taps & dies, but
machine tools, hammers,etc its fairly obvious). So far, this advice has worked
well, although the initial investment is obviously higher...
 
Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Land-Rover Factory
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 15:48:00 EST

LR assembled in Australia.  My '83 Rangie is a local build from a CKD kit by 
Leyland or JRA (Jaguar Rover Australia)

Regards,

Ron

 ----------
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com
Subject: Land-Rover Factory
Date: Tuesday, 14 January 1997 1:03PM

I remember a large Land-Rover "building or Warehouse" in Bankok Thailand in
the mid to late 60`s.  Was this plant used to assemble Rovers for Vietnam
or
for the country of Thailand?  Did Land-Rover have assembly plants other
than
England?  I also remember seeing a few Series Land-Rovers about the streets
of Bangkok.  It would be interesting to see if any still exist.
John Cooper 1969 11a

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Roof linings???
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 15:48:00 EST

Not another Red Dwarf freak??

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Anyone any thoughts on roof linings??>

Rimmer: You're about as much use as a condom machine in the Vatican.
 --
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:56:30 +0100 (MET)

Richard,
| Different question: Tow ropes: Nylon or polypropylene? I see LRW have
| a special offer for polyP rope with shackles.
I made my own out of a old climing rope. I wove <sp?> 4 strands together
to get more breaking load (single line strength is at least 1500kg for a 
11mm rope). Works fine and is a good bit strechy but I like this.
The first real test of it was pulling a bogged Unimog out with a farm
tractor.
If you don't go climing yourselve or have a friend who does, ask e.g. on 
uk.rec.climbing. Those climbing ropes are retired every 4 years since
the loose elasticity (but not their strength).

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Self-Induced Rover Problems
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 15:52:00 EST

Steve Rochna wrote:
>Does anybody out there have a SIII gas cap that they want to
sell?  If so please e-mail me directly.

Sorry, Steve.  I tried stuffing the gas cap into the drive slot but it 
wouldn't fit.  I guess sanil mail is the only way.

Regards,

Ron Beckett

PS -- Sorry I don't have a gas cap.  I just couldn't resist

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Colour of my Exhaust
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 16:28:00 EST

This a question for drivers of leaded cars.  I note that the inside of the 
exhaust pipe on my '83 Rangie (and my '71 Hillman), both of which have twin 
Stromberg CD carbs and both of which use leaded fuel, is grey - as I would 
expect from a properly tuned car.

However, the '86-87 EFI Rangie which also uses leaded has a black exhaust. 
 Is this normal for EFI engines or should I be looking for a tuneup with a 
view to improved fuel economy.

The reason I said the question was for leaded fuel users only is that I've 
noticed that all unleaded cars seem to have a black carbon exhaust - unlike 
leaded fuels.

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Pigtail CurlyCues
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 16:52:00 EST

Jeff,

I didn't think the USA was liberal enough to let this stuff in.  I thought 
only
Australia with its famous Gay Mardi Gras would activley sell this stuff!!
Or did you forget San Fran?

Ron

***Of historical interest: The kit featuring the closed loops (for
manacles) and the leather rear-manacled-passenger silencers, which also
included matching leather silencers for the tailgate chains and the
manacles, was a Land-Rover approved third-party option for installation on
NADA vehicles destined for Greenwich Village, NYC...Hollywood, CA...and
Cambridge, MA.  Call Lanny at Rovers North and see if he has any of these
gems left--Part# SNM12567.***

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
     My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
     My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
     Taste for the good life,
     I can see it no other way.
          --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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