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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 05:02:26 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: OK next solution....

Bill,

        I haven't followed every thread, but I gather you're having trouble
bleeding one of those tilted-bugger master cylinders. I learned a trick
that worked at least half the time with stubborn bleed jobs. Use a stick or
other means to wedge the brake pedal about 1/3 or so the way down and go do
something else for a couple of days. In your case, since you have the CV
cylinder (I presume) you might want to jack up the front of the vehicle to
level the cylinder.In some cases, I have come back and found that the
bubbles have all risen to the top and the system is bled. This used to be
the favorite trick on British cars like MGCs that had a very complicated
brake plumbing system.
        I agree with those who have said that bleeding at 70 PSI is too
high. It sounds as though you've gone through all the brake adjustments but
has anyone mentioned a soft brake hose. I've seen one or two that would
cause a soft pedal.Also, did anyone mention adjustment of the MC rod at the
pedal.
        I also remember talking to a fellow who bled stubborn Land Rovers
from the bottom up and fed fluid from the bleed screw up.
        Just some ideas.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 05:14:02 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Capstan winches

TO ALL

        Here's a question that I'm trying to get answered for a friend who
has helped my with my book and he's a Jeep guy. Early on, there were
American made aftermarket capstan winches available for early Jeeps. Has
anyone ever run across information as to whether any of the Brit companies
ever built a kit for Jeeps? I have a vague recollection about seeing a
Mayflower ad mentioning a Jeep application.
        Pardon the non LR content but, hey, this is history!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 01:12:00 EST

 DaveB wrote:

>     Trust *ME*. BTW, for more info, see my tutorial below, for those who
     weren't paying attention the first time or weren't on the list then..

>.     HOW TO REPAIR THE LAND-ROVER HANDBRAKE:
truncated by Ron
> Im really sorry about this :-)
> DaveB.

Ohhhhh, you are a fibber, you're not sorry at all!
(say it in a high pitched voice - maybe like Nanny
in Count Duckula - not "The Nanny") 8->

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: SU /Stromberg CD Carbs
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 01:17:00 EST

Someone must know the answer to this.  I note that there
have been comments that the Stromberg CD carb as used
on Rangies isn't the greatest of carbs and that the SU is
better.

If that is so, why did LR persist with the CD when they could
have used SUs which, I think, were owned by Leyland.
(at least, I think they were owned by Morris before BL
came along)

Just asking

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Winch
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 01:17:00 EST

 Alex Easton wrote on Saturday, 11 January 1997 2:10AM

>The Warn 8274
>main use for it is to recover Toy cars as Range Rovers don't get stuck.

Alex, I assume your tongue was firmly planted in your cheek or
did I merely hav e afalse impression that I was stuck in a water
hole two weeks ago and had to be pulled out by my bro-in-laws
 Nissan (shame).

Wai, I'll rephrase thatt, I wasn't "stuck" - I had a wet ignition.

Regards

Ron Beckett
'83 RR 3.5L manual
'87 RR 4.8L auto
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660   -  for pictures see
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html
'67 Hillman Gazelle

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Aussie LRs in Viet Nam
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 01:17:00 EST

Paul Donohue  wrote on: Saturday, 11 January 1997 3:57AM

>The Australians used Series IIa 109 Land Rovers with odd fender cutouts,
               The odd fender (mudguard) cutouts were standard on Australian
                Army LRs.  If you look at your photos you'll probably note 
that the
                Army Landies don't have sills under the doors either.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 15:52:30 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Dove Grey

Dennis E. Renken wrote:

>I recently bought a 1958 Series One 107". 

Pick-up, I assume?

>Most of the paint is gone,
>leaving a lot of bare aluminum, but protected areas under the hood still
>have a light gray color.  Is this the LR color "Dove Gray"?  

If it is a rather warm grey with a pinkish cast, yes, that's Dove Grey. 
Quite a typical color for the 107" pick-ups.

>Is it possible
>to find paint this color? (the FAQ on painting does not list this color).
>And, is there a currently available color in a common brand (in the US),
>such as PPG or Dupont, that is a close substitute?

I have two colour codes:
Herberts  37263
ICI       PO30-3270

However, the best method, imho, is to have some panel computer-analyzed and 
then have the paint mixed from that sample. Possible areas where paint would 
have survived reasonably intact:
- Behind door trim (if there is any)
- Inside tool lockers (under front seat, in rear wheelboxes)
- Under seat pillows

If you want more info about how your car looked originally, there is a very 
nice book:

Orignial Land-Rover Series I
by James Taylor
Photography by Rowan Isaac
ISBN 1 870979 72 9

Nice colour pictures of your car (probably) on pages 80 and 77. A treasure 
trove for the restorer!
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: OK next solution....
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 02:07:00 EST

Adams, Bill wrote:
> With 70 psi  going to the reservoir, I got lots of
> brake fluid through the lines, but seemed to fail at getting out the air.
> The pedal is still spongy and takes a pump or two to get a solid feel.
> WTF am I doing wrong?

Jeremy replied:
70psi seems mighty high.  The Eezibleed says a max of 20psi.  Could the
high pressure be causing entrapment of air??

Hmm, as a scuba diver, I'd tend to agree.  You might be dissolving
the air in the fluid under pressure and, when it's released, letting the
air bubbles cause effervescence that  give the barkes the "bends"  8->

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Dinghy Hoops
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 02:07:00 EST

> Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
>                    jeff@purpleshark.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>    I can see it no other way.
>         --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

Jeff, you're obviusly into Jimmy Buffett.

Whe he sang "Let's get drunk and screw", was he talking of wrenching
or wenching?  Also, is he any relation to all the Buffetts, descendants
of the Bounty Mutineers who live on Norfolk Island?

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Engine origina
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 02:07:00 EST

Wdcockey@aol.com
wrote on: Saturday, 11 January 1997 1:04PM

>Actually, I don't think GM regretted selling the engine (design rights &
>some tooling). The engine was succeded by the thin wall iron V6
>which was the predeccessor to today's GM 3800 V6.

As a matter of interest, this 3.8L engine has been developed in
Australia for use in the rear wheel drive Holden.  (The engine
was developed in the US for front-wheel drive).  Now the interesting
thing is that, Down Under, it has a reputation for leaking oil and high
oil consumption (shades of Rover v8s).  The latest "Open Road"
 magazine (the auto club mag), warns drivers to check their oil weekly.
 If oil consumption/loss is around 1 litre/1000km, GM have a
mod ification kit - new heads, new pistons etc.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Web sites of Interest to Roverites ??
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 02:08:00 EST

The following list of sites of interest to Roverites (Series, CSO et al) is 
not exhaustive.  It comprises addresses I've picked up from various net 
messages.  I hope there is something for everyone.

Ron "Errors & Omissions Excepted" Beckett

 ---------------------------------------------------------

British Pound symbol use ALT-156 ?  NOT ALT-0156

Good list of Land Rovers including Australian versions
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/

Yorkshire Rover Owners Club
http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/

Upper Mississippi Land Rover Group
http://www.tc.umn.edu/nlhome/g029/nelso276/umlrg/

Subject: dual battery gif?
http://204.119.251.4/LR_FAQ/Series/DualBat.gif

splitcharge wiring diagram can be found at
 http://www.cdr.wisc.edu/staff/trowe/splitcharge.html

Rhino Gear
http://www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm\

There's been a couple of postings regarding wire rope breaking
strengths. If people are interested you can take a look at:
http://versales.com/wirerop.htm

Prolong has a web address:
 Http://www.terminus.net/tsi/prolong/prolong.html

Zeus Timing Gears
 http://www.zynet.co.uk/adnet/zeus

Co-founder of the newly organizing "Arkansas Land Rover Association"
http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html

engine block heaters
http://media4.hypernet.com/~PHILTEM/english.html
(may be case sensitive)
Info by fax   612-941-3347
Zero Start Electronic BBS
612-9417893

Power Chip
http://www.powerchip.com.au
email :  pwrchip@ozemail.com.au

NAS  Defender Registry at
http://www.learnlink.emory.edu/solaros

http://Land-Rover.Team.net/~dwf/land-rover/santiago_canyon/Canyon_run.htm

RR FAQ
http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/FAQ.top.html

Discovery Tech Bulletins
http://www.alldata.tsb.com/

Ramp Travel Index Reference
www.fourwheeler.com/sections/newtrucks/rti.html

Rhino Gear
www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm

K&N Filter review
www.mr2.com/TEXT/kn_filter.txt

 SuperWinch in US ??
http://www.superwinch.com/

www.mindspring.com/~david_r
www.4x4now.com/trcady.htm
www.redback.com/directory/
www.tuffyweb.com
www.triumph.co/showroom/96models.htm
www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/radiouk.html
www.toyota.com.au
www.nj.com.yucky

 Car Talk. (For those outside of FM
radio range of this show check out
www.cartalk.com.)

Unimogs
www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

Other miscellaneous Info

The power of a BBQ - idela for those who like to go bush
Check out George Goble web site
http://ghg.acn.purdue.edu/
where you can see the effect of using 3 gallons of liquid oxygen onto a BBQ 
having 60lbs of charcoal and a lit cigarette for ignition.  Charcoal is 
ready for cooking in 3 seconds.  Just don't use the Series I-IIA grilles for 
this BBQ

Disco Oil Filters
Fram PH16   $1.90 at Walmart

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 08:42:57 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: SU /Stromberg CD Carbs

Ron,

        From the late '80s on, SUs were used on Land Rovers. By literature
shows '89 on but it's not a primary source. I know the '90 model had them
because I saw them in the flesh on D110s and Discovery V8 (pre-injection).
        The SU is a far superior carb in nearly every sense. The only
reason perhaps is cost or familiarity. The Rover 3500S and SD1 had SUs
also.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 16:55:15 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: what is an RV? (No LR content)

Beckett, Ron wrote:
>  Alex Easton wrote on Saturday, 11 January 1997 2:10AM
> >The Warn 8274
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> hole two weeks ago and had to be pulled out by my bro-in-laws
>  Nissan (shame).
Not exactly LR content - but inspired by many references from LRO's
stateside, I ordered the JC Whitney catalogue. Many of the adverts say
that the particular product is for RV's or Vans - but simple question
from this side of the Atlantic - Whar is an RV?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 10:37:36 -500
Subject: More Vehicle Topping/HayBale Hauling

Jeff Berg et al,
I have a couple of items for this list, sort of LR related.  I asked 
about car topping large items, in my case, dinghies.  In brief, the 
problems with topping the LR are hoop fore-and-aft rocking due
to the "plug and socket" type of hoop mounts and the generally
taller vehicle height of the LR.  Nobody wants to worry when their 
pride and pleasure is strapped atop at highway speed.  Comments are 
always appreciated on this perceived rocking problem.  For a detailed
discussion of this progressively non-LR topic, go offline to the 
Laser Class HomePage at www.voicenet.com/~drlaser/indexPLF.html.  
Maze to the recent changes stuff, Laser bulletproofing, FAQ2 
contents, "How can I transport a Laser all by myself" topic.  Your 
appetite will be generously fulfilled.  

Back to LR stuff.  Has anyone experience with mounting a round 
haybale transporter to a 109 bed?  I am mainly concerned with the
width differences and adverse handling of placing over 1000 lbs atop
a narrow track vehicle.  As a plus, distances are limited to a few 
miles at barnyard pace.  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 11:16:58 -500
Subject: More Vehicle Topping/HayBale Hauling

Jeff Berg et al,
I have a couple of items for this list, sort of LR related.  I asked 
about car topping large items, in my case, dinghies.  In brief, the 
problems with topping the LR are hoop fore-and-aft rocking due
to the "plug and socket" type of hoop mounts and the generally
taller vehicle height of the LR.  Nobody wants to worry when their 
pride and pleasure is strapped atop at highway speed.  Comments are 
always appreciated on this perceived rocking problem.  For a detailed
discussion of this progressively non-LR topic, go offline to the 
Laser Class HomePage at www.voicenet.com/~drlaser/indexPLF.html.  
Maze to the recent changes stuff, Laser bulletproofing, FAQ2 
contents, "How can I transport a Laser all by myself" topic.  Your 
appetite will be generously fulfilled.  

Back to LR stuff.  Has anyone experience with mounting a round 
haybale transporter to a 109 bed?  I am mainly concerned with the
width differences and adverse handling of placing over 1000 lbs atop
a narrow track vehicle.  As a plus, distances are limited to a few 
miles at barnyard pace.  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 11:37:52 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: what is an RV? (No LR content)

>Beckett, Ron wrote:
>>  Alex Easton wrote on Saturday, 11 January 1997 2:10AM
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
>HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)    channel6denmark@hotmail.com
>---------------------------------------------------
RV stands for Recreational Vehicle, which could be about anything, but most
commonly a self propelled camper type like a Winnebago or a 101 FC with an
ambulance back with camper conversion.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society
D90 SW

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 17:47:59 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: OK next solution....

Adams, Bill wrote:
> To all those who are out there attaching various pumps, bicycle inner 
> tubes, clock radios, family pets and whatever other ungodly devices to 
> the top of your brake fluid reservoirs please let me in on the secret.
<snip>
> The pedal is still spongy

Maybe you're doing everthing o.k., but check to see if the footwell
isn't bending up, and check for excrement (am. shit) in the fluid coming
from the family pet and making the fluid spongy.

Floris 
109 s11a 1969

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 13:03:32 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Capstan winches

At 05:14 97-01-11 -0700, you wrote:

>        Here's a question that I'm trying to get answered for a friend who
>has helped my with my book and he's a Jeep guy. Early on, there were
-American made aftermarket capstan winches available for early Jeeps. Has
>anyone ever run across information as to whether any of the Brit companies
>ever built a kit for Jeeps? I have a vague recollection about seeing a
-Mayflower ad mentioning a Jeep application.
>        Pardon the non LR content but, hey, this is history!
>ever built a kit for Jeeps? I have a vague recollection about seeing a
-        Jim Allen
-

When I was living in Montreal, I recall meeting a fellow who was a true Jeep
maniac. He was absolutely positive that the capstan winch that equipped some
early jeeps was the exact same unit as on the Land Rover. He even had one in
a crated box for sale. Today, I regret that I haven't investigated further.
If I meet him again, I'll ask him.

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 14:48:20 -0500
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe <lro-digest> <starr_eric/furman@furman.edu>

------------------------------

Subject: Diesel Engine noise
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 14:59:06 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Anyone know of any tips for decreasing diesel engine noise inside a SIIA 
88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?

KC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 23:37:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Alan's winch, was Re:Best winch etc etc

Having been on the end of Alan Richer's winch cable, I have to agree it is a
great winch.

I am glad that the soleniod did not decide to stick that day.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 16:50:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Tailgate Chain Music?

On Fri, 10 Jan 1997 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> running away again, Jeff.  Just close you eyes and repeat after me "there's no 
> place like home, there's no place....."  :)
you're busted Zipkin.....face it.  

Russ W.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 23:41:04 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine noise

Keith W. Cooper wrote:
> Anyone know of any tips for decreasing diesel engine noise inside a SIIA
> 88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?
> KC
Dunno about the IIA but the Series III has a knob just beside the
ignition key, which when pulled reduces engine noise by about 100%
:)

But seriously, (well sort of) real gains (reductions) are hard to find,
but experience from this list over the past six months shows the
following percentage reductions in noise -

Correct tuning/valve adjustment			5%
A heaver gear oil				2%
Acoustic matting on cabside of firewall		3%
Added overdrive					4%
Acoustic padding in cabin roof			3%
Speed maintained under 60 mph			10%
Removal of overdrive				6%
Addition of freewhel hubs			4%
Conversion hardtop to open-top			17%

So we are talking marginal gains, which dependeing on personal
experience can make a substantial difference, though it can be
guaranteed that the Series Land Rover will never totally lose it's
trademark - NOISE!

:)
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 08:27:22 +1000
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Worn Gearbox Solutions

My Series III is suffering from a worn gearbox. Second gear to be precise.
It jumps out whenever you take you foot off the gas. The problem seems to
have got much worse since I replaced the oil in the gearbox. Will replacing
the oil with a thicker one improve things in the short term. Anyone have
any ides or experiences they can share?

------------------------------

From: ppinheiro@ip.pt
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 23:28:58 +0000
Subject: Tailgate Chain Music?

  Hi!

>From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
>Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 07:40:51 -500
>Subject: Tailgate Chain Music?

>I noticed that the tailgate on the IIA is suspended by two chains 
>with a curled galvanized bracket on each end.  The chains I saw had 
>no damping material attached.  How do you keep the chain loop from
>banging around and driving one crazy.  Mark

   You don't. :-)  Now seriously, in mine, one of the POs covered the 
chains in garden hose (pieces of it now, anyway).  I'm going to 
replace it (with a very flexible one).

   Bye!                                 Pedro Pinheiro
'67 Land Rover "Oscar" SIIA Diesel
 AFS Exchange Student - Missouri, US, in 1993-94

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 19:22:38 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Teflon tape

Dave Bobeck wrote:

>       As far as I know, teflon is inert.  ANybody care to disagree?

Teflon may be inert, but the tape itself is easily consumed by petrol.  
Don't use it anywhere in the fuel system.  Worst case scenario is bits 
breaking up to clog ports or jets in the carb.  I like the thought of using 
it on brake bleed screws.  Always used that scarce-as-gold Girling rubber 
grease.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Boris Brecelj <boris.brecelj@kiss.uni-lj.si>
Subject: Diesel fuel in winter
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 01:48:40 +0100

What are your recommendations for low temperatures and diesel fuel?
Is it better to use fuel additives or mix diesel with kerosene or =
gasoline?

As a suggestion for preventing frozen door locks and frozen door rubber =
I use antifreeze concentrate, I just inject a small amount into the =
locks, and for the door rubber I use a sponge to apply a thin coating =
all around...

Boris
D90 Tdi

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 01:20:35 GMT
From: Udhishtran Senathirajah <ingan@globalnet.co.uk>
Subject: Hard top, K&N and FWH on a Slll Leightwheight

Hello all,
          I have owned a 1980 Slll lightwheight (2.2286l,Petrol,FFR with 12v
ignition)for the past couple of   years and would really appreciate some
info on the following, whether theoretical or tested (latter            is
favoured):

1, Is it possible to fit a hard top from a civillian '88 to to the LW,
without any mods?, I have been quoted
   circa 600 UK pounds by my nearest MOD dealer (Crook bros, Lancasire,
UK)......has me aghast!!-there must be    a cheaper alternative.

2, Has any body out there replaced their LW's oil bath air filter with a K&N
item- if so did you have any probs    fitting one or does it fit in the same
way as it does into civ.LRs (rip out bath, bolt in KN, between the
point where air hose exits bath and attaches to the metal air intake
straddling rocker cover)?

3, I Have got Free Wheeling Hubs(make is ORA), for a S111 (accepts the LW 24
spline shaft), but the shafts dont    potrudeout far enough for the FWH
splines to gain a grip on them. Is there anybody else out there who's been
through this and has solved it on a LW?-The past owner used these FWHs by
drifting out the halfshaft enough     to engage the FWH and then locking the
'shaft within the FWH via some washers and a bolt. This does not    seem a
safe option. But there must be a common method as I've seen a couple of LWs
here, in the NW of    England with FWHs.

     Thanks in advance for all ideas (a deluge of Qs await).

                                                                       Udhi 

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Capstan winches
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 12:17:00 EST

>I have a vague recollection about seeing a
Mayflower ad mentioning a Jeep application.
>  Pardon the non LR content but, hey, this is history!
>       Jim Allen

I guess you don't mean the Truimph Mayflower car 8->

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 12:17:00 EST

Tom,  A good point.  I thin Australia had Austin Champs too.  There
are quite a few still advertised for sale down here.

Ron

< Did Australian forces use them in Korea?
I don't really know, but I doubt it.  LRs had only just been introduced
in the British Army, which still favored the Austin Champ at the time.
Australia's contribution to the war was a single infantry battalion
(actually 3 during the course of the war, on rotation).  I doubt such a
battalion would have had any significant number of Land Rovers at the
time; more likely none at all.  Other armies provided the support
services in the Commonwealth Brigade.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 17:01:50 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel fuel in winter

At 01:48 AM 1/12/97 +0100, Boris Brecelj wrote:
:As a suggestion for preventing frozen door locks and frozen door rubber =
:I use antifreeze concentrate, I just inject a small amount into the =
:locks, and for the door rubber I use a sponge to apply a thin coating =
:all around...
:
:Boris
:D90 Tdi

 Boris,

 Where are you writing from?  What year and color is your D90?
 Any scanned pictures you can send me?  What's your license plate
 and VIN number?

 We're putting together a database and registry of vehicles that we
 hope we will never run across in the marketplace and buy by mistake.
 Have you heard that antifreeze and brake fluid eat paint?

 Cheers,

-Michael
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 02:46:32 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Worn Gearbox Solutions

David R Scholes wrote:
> My Series III is suffering from a worn gearbox. Second gear to be precise.
> It jumps out whenever you take you foot off the gas. The problem seems to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> the oil with a thicker one improve things in the short term. Anyone have
> any ides or experiences they can share?
Sorry to bring bad tidings but I know this problem - I have two series
gearboxes, one crashing in 3rd from 4th, and the other in 2nd from 3rd,
accompanied by the hopping out of 2nd problem. My LR mechanic has
diagnosed "worn synchromesh gear" on both - until I can afford the time
and money to service gearbox, the hopping problem is "solved" by either
no using 2nd when coming down the box from 3rd - just going straight to
1st, OR changing down from 3rd to 2nd, keeping clutch down, changing to
1st, keeping clutch down and changing UP to 2nd again then slipping
clutch. I have found that 2nd does not slip when moving UP the box, just
down, as the wear on the synchromesh is such that it works fine upwards
but not downwards. Bit tricky on sharp turns, but it works.

If you find another solution which saves rebuilding gearboxes I'd love
to hear about it, but it's double-de-clutching or my 4-3-2-1-2 solution
until then I fear! Good luck!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: SU /Stromberg CD Carbs
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 13:07:00 EST

 jim allen wrote on Sunday, 12 January 1997 1:42AM

> I know the '90 model had them because I saw them in the flesh
>on D110s and Discovery V8 (pre-injection).
>The SU is a far superior carb in nearly every sense....
>The Rover 3500S and SD1 had SUs

Thanks, Jim.  Interesting that they made the change on some vehicles
but not others.  Actually, that may not be strictly true.  I am using my
very limited knowledge here,  I wonder if they used them earlier than
1990 on the Rangie.  The owner's handbook (printed in 1985) that
came with my '87, specifies Solex CD175 carbs for the non-EFI engine.
I hadn't realised they were renamed Solex.  I still call 'em Strombergs.

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Diesel Engine noise
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 13:07:00 EST

 Keith W. Cooper asked:
>Anyone know of any tips for decreasing diesel engine noise inside a SIIA
>88" SW with a 2.25 L diesel engine?

Being a smart****, I could think of several answers e.g. turn the motor off 
butno, I won't say that.

There's a mob in Britain who do a sound proofing kit.  There was a write up 
in LROI in August(?)
One of the kit parts is a sound blanket that covers the engine!  They 
advertise in LROI.  I've lent that issue to a friend and can't check it out. 
 BJ Acoustics I think.  ?250 ??

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Teflon tape vs Rubber Grease
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 13:07:00 EST

Andy Grice wrote:
Teflon may be inert, .<snip>.....  I like the thought of using
it on brake bleed screws.  Always used that scarce-as-gold Girling rubber
grease.  Cheers

Andy,

Castrol make a rubber grease type GRR(B).  I bought a 500 gram pot for about 
$7

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 19:23:58 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Worn Gearbox Solutions

David R Scholes wrote:
> My Series III is suffering from a worn gearbox. Second gear to be precise.
> It jumps out whenever you take you foot off the gas. The problem seems to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> the oil with a thicker one improve things in the short term. Anyone have
> any ides or experiences they can share?

Probably a worn synchro, but as I understand it, if you're lucky it might 
just be a worn out spring on the shifter detent ball.  I'd change that 
first just to be sure before you start opening the box.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 22:22:50 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Akzo Coatings (was: Series One Colors)

>These paints are extremely environmental friendly, forced by regulations in  
>countries around the world.  The U.S. is not the most environmentally strict  
>country. ;-)
>Sikkens is available in the U.S.

I think I missed a posting or two about the environmental friendliness of these 
Dutch products. I've been working on the remaining items of my pickup to SW 
conversion today, specifically removing the top seat belt brackets from the 
pickup cab and bolting them to the new cab. That involved some cutting and 
drilling and hence bare metal, but luckily  (?) I had plenty of Sikkens primer 
left over after treating bare areas on the replacement station wagon body. In 
front of me I have a Sikkens can with a skull-and-crossbones logo and TOXIC in 
five languages - explaining that this is a carcinogen, "toxic by inhalation and 
in contact with skin" etc. The hardener has its own suite of announcements of 
danger. These are very toxic products.
Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 18:48:39 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Manifold studs.

At  1:03 PM 1/7/97 -0500, Ashley Charlwood wrote:
>Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the manifold is
>in place??

Simple, assuming the threads are intact. tighten two jam nuts together.
Put a wrench on the nut and unscrew the studs.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 22:03:12 -0500
Subject: unsubscribe

which

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 19:14:00 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Three fuel tanks, View Camera

At  1:47 AM 1/8/97 +0000, James Wolf wrote:
>Teriann; I am interested in the valve that you have for your three fuel
>tanks.

I just went down to my local auto parts store and bought a brass three way
fuel valve.  I've seen this in several auto parts stores that carry brass
fittings.  If you can not find one I might be able to pick one up for you &
ship it to you.

The shaft is too long.  I have a wood block I use as a spacer.  The  ports
are threaded.  I used right angle elbows and hose fittings..  I have
mounted mine on the front of the seat box  Mine switches among three tanks
and has a off position.

>Now, about your View Camera. What kind is it? What size neg. does it have?
>Do you ever use Polaroid backs? I like view cameras, but don't get to use
>them as much anymore.

I have a Wisner 4X5 technical.  This is a very handsome, well made wood,
brass and leather field camera.  It has full movements on the front
standard, swing and tilt movements on the rear standard.  The bellows is
interchangable with a 24 inch bellows and a bag bellows.  They make a 5X8
inch rear standard for my camera.  I have toyed with the idea of getting
one for panoramas.

I do occasionally use a poloriod back but not often.  Generally when I'm
experimenting  or working under very difficult lighting bright enough for
the films not to be in reciprosity failure.

If I was shooting comercial stuff I would have a rail camera and use
poloriod proofs a lot more.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 19:58:16 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: ? Expanding fuel tanks on a 2A

At 11:19 AM 1/9/97 -0500, Adamson, John G wrote:
;
>I've got one short question. Is there any reason the front fuel tank outrigger
>could not be moved forward(closer to the bulkhead
>outrigger)?

One that comes to mind is that the tank fits inside the seat box.  If it
were any longer, it would not fit.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Belts v. gears
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 21:12:01 -0800
From: "Kerry M. Oldham" <66lndrvr@itsnet.com>

I have switched to the Zues timing components and I love them. I have a 
2ltr diesel engine and on all diesel engines the timeing is VERY 
critical. Look at it this way, you will Never buy a timing chain, gears, 
rubbing block, etc, again.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 20:11:55 -0800
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: what is an RV? (No LR content)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Steve Paustian wrote:

> RV stands for Recreational Vehicle, which could be about anything, but
most
> commonly a self propelled camper type like a Winnebago or a 101 FC
with an
> ambulance back with camper conversion.

RV [n] - An acronym for recreational vehicle.  Usually found on steep,
winding roads in the mountains, where the engine is insufficient to
propel the vehicle at normal speeds.  Although local laws often state
that these vehicles are to pull to the side of the road when a line of
five or more vehicles accumulate behind them, the (almost certainly
retired and over 65 years of age) drivers rarely do so.  The result is
usually twenty or thirty irate drivers honking horns and gesticulating
wildly.

C

------------35136B0421952
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<HTML><BODY>

<DT>Steve Paustian wrote:<BR>
&gt;&nbsp;<BR>
<BR>
&gt; RV stands for Recreational Vehicle, which could be about anything,
but most<BR>
&gt; commonly a self propelled camper type like a Winnebago or a 101 FC
with an<BR>
&gt; ambulance back with camper conversion.<BR>
<BR></DT>

<DT>RV [n] - An acronym for recreational vehicle.&nbsp; Usually found on
steep, winding roads in the mountains, where the engine is insufficient
to propel the vehicle at normal speeds.&nbsp; Although local laws often
state that these vehicles are to pull to the side of the road when a line
of five or more vehicles accumulate behind them, the (almost certainly
retired and over 65 years of age) drivers rarely do so.&nbsp; The result
is usually twenty or thirty irate drivers honking horns and gesticulating
wildly.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>C</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------35136B0421952--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 20:21:18 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: cat diesel 3208

Hi,

anyone have any info about the above mentioned diesel engine?

Thanks,

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
                                  1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 23:35:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Akzo Coatings (was: Series One Colors)

I'm sorry, but this is rubbish.  There are several hundreds of different Akzo  
Coatings primers, and just because you happen to run into one that is  
carcinogen (and for a long time all primers used to be carcinogen due to the  
lack of other chemistry available) doesn't mean that all primers are.  And  
there are indeed some primers which are not to be used without proper heavy  
duty protective gear.  Environmental friendly in this case doesn't mean it  
can't kill you if administered "properly", but rather magnitudes more mild  
than other, previous products.

Anyhow, I'm not representing Akzo Nobel here, and I suggest you consult your  
friendly neighborhood Sikkens dealer or Akzo Coatings rep for further health  
info.

Regardless, I will never risk my health for anything I do with any industrial  
strength product.  That's what protective gear is for...

Regards,
Chris

On Sat, 11 Jan 1997 22:22:50 -0500, Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> wrote:
> I think I missed a posting or two about the environmental friendliness of
> these Dutch products. I've been working on the remaining items of my pickup
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Tel +(758) 454 6060
> Fax +(758) 454 5188
--
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>                      kuhtz@ix.netcom.com
Paranet, Inc.
http://www.paranet.com/         BOYCOTT INTERNET SPAM http://www.vix.com/spam 

------------------------------

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