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From: NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 08:44:16 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Best Winches

.....snip

The Belleview Alan Richer has on the front of Churchill...
                                              ^^^^^^^^^
....snip
BTW, Id be curious to see how this machine would fit on a RR. 
                              ^^^^^^^^^^^^

I don't much about RR's but I'd bet you'd need one helluva sturdy roof rack
and maybe an upgrade to the suspension....Might effect your handling (top
heavy, no?) Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 08:20:24 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Series One Colors

>  Is this the LR color "Dove Gray"?  Is it possible to find paint this 
>color? (the FAQ on painting does not list this color). And, is there a 
>currently available color.....snip.... that is a close substitute?
     
     Sounds familiar, I believe there is a Krylon color called Dove Gray. 
     Buy a couple of cases, and go to town. When of the US 4WD magazines 
     has an article this month on how to do a spiffy low budget spray can 
     job. 
     
     Later 
     DAve B. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 08:10:56 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Shade Tree Mechanic - brake bleeding

 
     
>Has anyone else found this? Perhaps a dose of anti-seize on the bleed screw 
>threads first would stop air intake?

Allan
Id try teflon thread sealing tape like that used for compressed air/gas lines. 
I used it on all my brake line in the interest of being able to take them 
apart.

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 10:11:36 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Land Rover Colours

Can anyone help us?  We need to find out the pantone clours for the current
LR logo.  If anyone has any information on the subject it would be much
appreciated.

Many thanks.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Shade Tree Mechanic - brake bleeding
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 15:14:42 GMT

> >Has anyone else found this? Perhaps a dose of anti-seize on the bleed screw 
> >threads first would stop air intake?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I used it on all my brake line in the interest of being able to take them 
> apart.

Often sold as "plumber's tape" in the UK - for central heating systems and
the like. Being teflon, it has good temperature and pressure properties.
I used it to fit a temp. sensor to the oil cooler pipe found on
military SIIIs (replacing the original temp. sensor). Previously, the thread
was slightly slack, but this works. Just tape the threads the required
amount (its very thin stuff), and hey presto!

Brake fluid is nasty stuff, but teflon is probably resistant to it?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 10:29:30 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: Shade Tree Mechanic - brake bleeding

     
>>>Brake fluid is nasty stuff, but teflon is probably resistant to it?
     
     As far as I know, teflon is inert. ANybody care to disagree?
     
     DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 10:27:45 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

     
In a message dated 97-01-10 05:54:52 EST, you write:
     
<< Sounds like fun. The manual implies that the shoes come off with the 
springs
 attached (doesn't mean they won't drop off instantly, though!)
  >>
     
If they haven't turned to rust dust.  Before removing the shoes, study the 
orientation of the springs.  Trust me.
     
     Bollocks!! Takes all the fun uot of it. You'll be much happier bout 
     the whole thing when its over if you make it more difficult on 
     yourself! 
     Besides, if you're liek me, you've backed up n low range with the 
     brake on enough times that you've busted the springs...
     
     Trust *ME*. BTW, for more info, see my tutorial below, for those who 
     weren't paying attention the first time or weren't on the list then...
     
      
     HOW TO REPAIR THE LAND-ROVER HANDBRAKE:
     
     1. Do not repair the handbrake.
     
     2. If your gearbox sounds like its going to blow up when you are in 
     nuetral, assume it's the handbrake.
     
     3. Call Rovers North and describe the sound your gearbox makes. They 
     are experts on sounds and will diagnose your problem for you. This 
     will save you time in the future, by allowing you to dismantle the 
     whole brake assembly instead of just removing the drum and checking 
     things out.
     
     4. Try to undo as many rusty pieces as possible without cutting. This 
     will make the job take longer and you will get really dirty, which is 
     the real goal of backyard repairs, right?
     
     5. Under no circumstances should you stop by the liquor store before 
     you start this job. We wouldn't want you to be distracted by having 
     good, room temperature ale laying about.
     
     6. If you decide to grind through all the stubborn pieces, please 
     place a barrier between the sparks and the petrol tank. A good example 
     of something to use for this would be your factory service manual. It 
     fits nicely in the space and has lots of extra pages you can burn off 
     before you get to the parts you actually need. Besides they're pretty 
     inexpensive, right? (ha ha)
     
     7. If all of the linkages are fused together as one piece, then you 
     can assume that the problem is not with the linkage. Take off the 
     brake drum, trying to strip as many nuts as possible. Who needs all 
     those silly Whitworth nuts anyway?
     
     8. When you finally get the drum off, retrieve the broken spring that 
     was causing the shoes to rub. You will need to replace this someday. 
     
     9. Remove the rest of the linkage and the actuator rod, shoes, etc, 
     etc, from the handbrake assembly. Replace the drum and put back all 
     the stripped nuts. Remember to carry around a wheel chock of some sort 
     as you now no longer have the priviledge of using the handbrake.
     
     10. Pour 1 can of radiator stop leak into the radiator. Top off the 
     radiator coolant level. This should take about 1/2 US gallon, even if 
     you haven't driven the vehicle since you last filled it (!). Drive 
     around for a few minutes to make the stop leak work. The handbrake is 
     now repaired.
     
     Im really sorry about this :-)
     
     DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 01:50:21 +1000
From: Alex Easton <easton@gil.com.au>
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes and clutch

An easy way to bleed brakes and clutch on Land Rover and Range Rover is
to get a master cylinder cap (Land Rover needs a different one to Range
Rover), drill a hole in the centre and fit a tubeless tyre valve (Make
sure that it is a tight fit). You then open the bleed screw furthest
away from the master cylinder, pump air into the master cylinder with a
hand pump (I find a bicycle pump is great). Make sure you keep the
master cylinder full of fluid. When clear fluid with no air comes
through the bleed nipple tighten it up and go to the next wheel. Some
people say that it is better to start at the bleed nipple closest to the
master cylinder so that if air is close to the M.C. it does not have to
travel as far before it is expelled. I have found this system to work
very well.

Alex Easton.
Easton@gil.com.au
1961 Series IIA 88 Petrol
1976 Range Rover
Ex 1980 SIII 109 Diesel

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 02:10:01 +1000
From: Alex Easton <easton@gil.com.au>
Subject: Re: Winch

> Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:17:40 -0500 (EST)
> From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
> Subject: Re: Best winch for Ser

The Warn 8274 will fit a Range Rover. Mine is mounted to a box like
affair that was copied from the instruction in the winch manual. The
main use for it is to recover Toy cars as Range Rovers don't get stuck.
Seriously, it is an 8000lb winch that works a lot faster than most other
winches and the gears are large and strong so they don't break.
alex
easton@gil.com.au
Series II 88in
Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 11:20:33 +0100
From: Customer Service <custserv@terminus.intermind.net>
Subject: Re: Scientific mystery (no true LR content)

Check out the Guinness web site. Lots of great Guinness facts.

http://www.guinness.ie/

1967 Series IIa 88  for sale
1994 Defender 90

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 08:21:41 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Suck vs. Blow was Re: Shade Tree Mechanic - brake bleeding

Allan Smith wrote:
> >You also can suck the brake fluid thru each line by connecting the
> >vac pump to each bleed screw(with a 'tee' fitting and bottle, follow
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> >and slowly open the bleed screw.  You will suck fluid from the lines
> >and m/c.snip

> As soon as
> the bleed screw opened it slurped in air.
> Has anyone else found this? Perhaps a dose of anti-seize on the bleed screw
> threads first would stop air intake?

If I were going to try this I'd use Girling red brake grease (which I've used
in the past to help seal Eezibleed caps).

IMOH I'd prefer positive to negative pressure when trying to bleed something.
I suspect you stand a better chance of pushing bubbles out than sucking them
since the negative pressure will tend to trap micro bubbles in irregularities.

cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  Here's a related tip for all you folks who drink out of those "cardboard
box" drink containers.  If you want to get the last drops out don't suck forever
on the straw.  Blow into the container, the pressure forces the last fluid out, if
the box is sealed well :)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 11:43:24 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Range Rover maintenance info on the web

Hello all, 

I do remember seeing on a web page a good report of what had to be changed
or repaired on a Range Rover once it attained a certain mileage, that looked
like a FAQ. I tried the new Range Rover web site (great site) and Roverweb
but didn't find it. Does anybody know what the URL is?

Thanks a lot, 

Michel

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 11:07:03 -0500
From: Ben Saltzman <bensbest@bitstream.net>
Subject: Good-Bye

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:12:15 -0500
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Vacuum Bleeding Brakes

A few years ago, I purchased a "Mighty Vac" unit with the high hopes of
using it to bleed brakes.  I have never successfully done it.  As Allen
Smith noted, when you pull a vacuum on the bleed nipple and then slowly open
it, air leaks from around the threads.  Closing it shuts off the air, and
the fluid as well.

When I installed a new plastic brake master reservoir, I kept the old cap
and installed a tire valve in it.  Now I just 1) fill reservoir 2) screw on
modified cap  3)attach bicycle pump 4)open bleed nipple 5)have my four year
old pump like hell until I observe fluid running clear and without bubbles
6) close nipple 7) got to next wheel and repeat.  It's really easier to do
than describe.  In a pinch you can do it by yourself.  You just waste a
little more fluid.

Made with new parts, one of these devices would cost 5 or 6 bucks, probably.
I get correctly bled brakes in a fraction of the time it used to take using
the wife to pump the brake pedal.  I don't think she misses it much.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:12:40 -500
Subject: Thermostat Testing Anyone?

Roverites,
Regarding the recent thermostat questions, does anyone know at 
what point in a stovetop test warmup the stamped rating is achieved?

Let me be more precise.  
Assuming it is accurate, does the thermostat START to open at the
indicated temperature or COMPLETE the opening process at the
indicated temperature?
Mark  

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:54:00 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: OK next solution....

To all those who are out there attaching various pumps, bicycle inner 
tubes, clock radios, family pets and whatever other ungodly devices to 
the top of your brake fluid reservoirs please let me in on the secret.
I tried this route with the 109 SW with little success. In my case, it 
was the top from an Oatey PVC primer can to which i soldered a connector 
to my air compressor. With 70 psi  going to the reservoir, I got lots of 
brake fluid through the lines, but seemed to fail at getting out the air. 
The pedal is still spongy and takes a pump or two to get a solid feel.
WTF am I doing wrong?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 13:22:25 -0400
Subject: Re: OK next solution....

Go around and clamp off the rubber lines one by one. I'll lay odds you've
got a bad wheel cylinder or the like, and that's what's giving you the
buggered pedal.

I know this problem altogether too well - can you say been there, had that?
8*)

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 10:29:30 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Akzo Coatings (was: Series One Colors)

At 03:07 AM 1/10/97, Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> wrote:
:On a side note:  I'm German, and my dad restored an old, fairly abused  
:Mercedes Benz coupe a while back, and since he's working for Akzo Coatings  
:(the unknown chemical giant backing names like Sikkens, Enka, etc) asked
their  
:labs what would be the best finish etc to achieve the look of the original  
:vehicle.  Well, I have a picture of it sitting on my desk here and it looks  
:fantastic, and will stay that way for most likely for a very long time.

 Sounds like just the thing for Mercedes Unimogs!  Where pray tell can
 mere mortals obtain this wonderful paint elixir in the United States,
 that is, if the EPA gods in Washington have not deemed it illegal.

 Regards,
                       see my big brothers at: www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html
                       ______ /
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 510-988-0900          [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 cs@crl.com _________.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 11:18:47 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea

John Dillingham said:

[snip]
>his Land Rover. This was in the late seventies, early eighties. As far as
>Mrs. Linton knows, Hugh brought one of the first LRs to Korea. I'll try to
>find out the year.

I remember reading in a book or article, a few years back, that the British
had Series I Land-Rovers in the Korean conflict.  The comment about it, that
made me remember it, was that the Land-Rover's superior weather protection
and creature comforts(!) caused it to be recognized as a distinct
improvement over the American Jeep.  The Land-Rover's superior off-road
ability may have been mentioned as well but I don't recall it.  Just struck
me as notable that the Series I was recognized for anything so unlikely as
its civility!  It's all relative, you see.

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 14:46:06 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: OK next solution....

Please, I have tried the elevation thing (silly) and I know all wheel 
cylinders and MC are in good order.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 15:11:16 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: LRW AGAIN!

>I am dropping my LRW subscription for three reasons:
>1. It is immature
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>2. It is puerile
>3. It is childish

I guess I'm having a hard time accepting your editorial criticism as
you've only given one reason--in three different forms.

I confirmed this using The American Heritage Dictionary, third edition:

puerile (adj.)
1. Belonging to childhood; juvenile.
2. Immature; childish. See Synonyms at young. [Latin puerhlis, from puer,
child, boy.

	Hmmm, that pretty much proves it, but of course I plunge on...

childish (adj.)
1. Of, relating to, or suitable for a child or childhood: a high, childish
voice; childish nightmares.
2.a. Marked by or indicating a lack of maturity; puerile: tired of your
childish pranks. b. Not complicated; simple. c. Affected mentally by old
age; senile.

immature (adj.)
1. Not fully grown or developed. See Synonyms at young.
2. Marked by or suggesting a lack of normal maturity: silly, immature behavior.

And any way you slice it, it sounds like a group of Rover owners I've been
known to associate with...obviously we've found a magazine that we can
relate to. :-)

>The magazine is riddled throughout with in-jokes about the staff,
>and even an occasional jab at former staff members. Who gives a flying
>damn?

IMHO, this is what gives the magazine it's irreverant character--and I
prefer it to the competition for that reason.  YMMV

Best regards, RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	Bimbo-limbo is where I've been...
	I'm looking for a smart woman in a real short skirt
	A smart woman who knows how to flirt
			--Jimmy Buffett, Smart Woman

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:10:50 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea

Paul Donahue said:

>I can not speak definitively about Korea, but can confirm the use of
>military Land Rovers in Vietnam by the Australian and New Zealand forces.

Ooo, that reminded me of something I'd forgotten about when I wrote my
earlier message about Series Ones in Korea.  Lloyd Allison has an article
about a very interesting Series I "Lightweight" in his Webazine, the URL for
which is:

    http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/4WD.html

You'll have to do a little surfing to find the page containing the story.
it has lightweight-style wings are rear box but with standard 80" Series I
bonnet and breakfast.  I'd like to do that to my 80" Series I!  He says that
the legend about this vehicle is that it was actually produced that way by
Land-Rover and that the Australian army had several of them and used them in
Korea.  I rather doubt it's true but makes a good story and I'm all for that.  

Keep the legend alive,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 15:14:19 -0500
From: William Mitchell <bill@whm-atty.com>
Subject: Ser. IIA 109 5-dr. SEAT BELTS

I'm planning to install seat belts in my '65 Ser. IIA 5-door LR.  
Ideally, I would like to install 2 shoulder harnesses in the front seats
(the center seat has been replaced with a console), 2 shoulder harnesses
and 1 lap belt in the back seats, and 2 lap belts in each of the
fold-down rear seats.

I would appreciate any advise or experience to share.  Specifically, is
it necessary to order parts from RN?  Or, can one take hardware from a
junked (non-LR) vehicle?  Are there problems attaching belts to the
vehicle?  Any hints?

Thanks.
Bill
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------
William H. Mitchell, Jr.          e-mail:  bill@whm-atty.com
ph:  (413) 256-0600               fx:  (413) 256-0654
------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 15:22:44 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Dinghy On Top?

>Has anyone ever travelled with a sailing dinghy secured to the softtop
>frames of their 109?  A Laser dinghy weighs about 130 lb.  Mark

Close--I once hauled a Sunfish on the rollcage of my 88" by u-bolting 2
lengths of 2x4 onto the cage.  I had no problems whatsoever--except getting
the damn boat on and off of the rack.  (Also--I was taking the boat to a
beach party some distance away so I prayed for no rain on the return trip!)

At the time my Rob, my future brother-in-law. speculated that the hoops
would have been able to support the weighflexing up and down while moving
at highway speeds.  For local transport, I wouldn't think it would be much
of a problem.  (And if your hoops are less than perfect, it shouldn't be
too much problem to bend them back to shape if the gave a bit.)

On the other hand, as we struggled to get the boat on top of the car, Rob
also inquired if I'd ever "heard of something called a trailer."

Please keep us posted--I might have to haul that thing again this summer!

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 15:24:41 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate Chain Music?

>>	Bondage in an 88" eh...  Always figured they were a bit short for
>>	that kind of thing.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>_______________________________________________________________________
>Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  *

Funny, Russ Wilson mentions a twelve-year-old girl and suddenly Mr. Zipkin
is back amongst us...

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	Love is fine until you taste
	This melancholy bouillabaisse called letting go
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lage Nom Ai
                                                         

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:26:02 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Series Vehicles in Vietnam was Re: Series Is in Korea

DONOHUEPE@aol.com wrote:
> snip
> I can not speak definitively about Korea, but can confirm the use of
> military Land Rovers in Vietnam by the Australian and New Zealand forces.
> What's interesting is that according to my brother's father in-law, who
lived in North Vietnam, the North also had LRs running about.  Based on
the age I'd guess they were late S1s potentially inherited from the French 
oddly enough, but obviously that's only a guess.
He said they were considered very reliable and the non-corroding nature
of the body work was considered an advantage.  He did compare them to the 
East German "trash" that he also had exposure to.  Apparently the East 
German vehicles were considered rather poor, in part because they'd eat
their gearboxes with predictable regularity.  It seems the metal used for the
gears was so soft that they'd wear out before about anything else on the
truck.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:31:51 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Ser. IIA 109 5-dr. SEAT BELTS

William Mitchell wrote:
 
> I would appreciate any advise or experience to share.  Specifically, is
> it necessary to order parts from RN?  Or, can one take hardware from a
> junked (non-LR) vehicle?  Are there problems attaching belts to the
> vehicle?  Any hints?
> I went the LR/RN route, but that's not necessary.  With non-LR parts you
may get into having to modify/rig the attachment points more.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:33:57 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: OK next solution....

Adams, Bill wrote:
> With 70 psi  going to the reservoir, I got lots of
> brake fluid through the lines, but seemed to fail at getting out the air.
> The pedal is still spongy and takes a pump or two to get a solid feel.
> WTF am I doing wrong?

Apart from the usual comments along the lines of are you sure you've done all the other
adjustment steps properly, one thing stands out.

70psi seems mighty high.  The Eezibleed says a max of 20psi.  Could the 
high pressure be causing entrapment of air??

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:02:51 -500
Subject: Dinghy Hoops

Regarding Jeff Berg's post on the Sunfish dinghy vehicle top carry,
the dilemma of single hoisting has never been a problem.  I believe 
the Sunfish displacement is close to the Laser, perhaps a tad more.
Lift the stem of the dinghy to the stern of your vehicle.  Slide, lift and
push, all at once.  A top roller and ground pad help.  Always travel with
the hull upside down, keeping the hull fair for racing.  You are correct
that a trailer is one solution, but in my opinion, not optimum.  Stone
bruises, accident risks, tolls, parking, license, registration, theft, etc...
I prefer vehicle topping and a good light ramp dolly.

My original post expressed concern whether Land-Rover top hoops
would support a 130 lb evenly distributed dinghy hull.  Sounds like 
they will, if properly lashed.  All comments invited!  Mark 
  

------------------------------

Date: 10 Jan 1997 16:04:23 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Re- Tailgate Chain Music?

On Thu, 9 Jan 1997, Mark Gehlhausen wrote:

> I noticed that the tailgate on the IIA is suspended by two chains with
> a curled galvanized bracket on each end.  The chains I saw had no 
> damping material attached.  How do you keep the chain loop from 
> banging around and driving one crazy.  Mark

For a better look and less trapped moisture than an innertube, buy a few feet
of 3.5" or 4" double-braided nylon (DBN) line - any marine supply store should
stock it. 

The DBN  has two components  - a jacket (the "skin") and the core (the
"core").  Cut to length. 
Pull the core out and give it to the cat to play with.  Take a torch and
lightly singe the ends of the jacket to prevent fraying.  Slip the jacket over
the chain and you're done.  The jacket won't shrink, won't trap moisture, but
may turn yellow over time if exposed to a lot of sun (LR owners in England -
disregard).    Fancy yachting chandlery's will sell the line in various colors
to avoid this yellowing problem.   

Jeff
73 SIII 88 HT ("Galloping Gertie")

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: FW: photographs promised
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 22:11:07 -0500

Thanks a lot for the photos.  For those of you on the list I thought this would be interesting

Regards 
Rod Steele

----------
From: 	Jan Wagemaker[SMTP:wagemaker@dataweb.nl]
Sent: 	Wednesday, January 08, 1997 5:23 PM
Subject: 	photographs promised

Hi Rod,
at last the promised photographs.
The story in short:
Originally a LWB, PU, SII '61 petrol used as a command vehicle for a Swiss
firebrigade. Now rebuilt to my specifications, which didn't involve much
work, only a hardtop, a respray and LPG conversion.
Originally 15.000 kilometres (10.000 miles), thats it.
Any questions, just ask.

by the way, laro is dutch army slang for landrover.

regards, Jan W.

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 15:42:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Akzo Coatings (was: Series One Colors)

> At 03:07 AM 1/10/97, Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com> wrote:
> Where pray tell can
> mere mortals obtain this wonderful paint elixir in the United States,
> that is, if the EPA gods in Washington have not deemed it illegal.

These paints are extremely environmental friendly, forced by regulations in  
countries around the world.  The U.S. is not the most environmentally strict  
country. ;-)

Sikkens is available in the U.S., and so are most other product lines.  You  
get what you pay for and it is just simply expensive high quality paint.  Most  
people who walk into a store don't know terribly much about the chemistry  
behind coatings, and therefore aren't willing to pay the prices, nor do they  
know what to ask for.

By the way, Akzo Nobel's homepage in the U.S. is at  
http://www.akzo-nobel.com/ and Akzo Coatings is devision  
(http://www.akzo-nobel.com/units.htm) of it.  For the curious, search for the  
keyword akzo in InterNIC's whois database and what the list scroll by. ;-)

I sent an eMail off to my dad in Germany in order to get a list of resellers  
and support centers in the U.S.  I'll forward it to the list as soon as I get  
it.  One might also poke around on their webpage, there might be more info  
there..

Regards,
--
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>                      kuhtz@ix.netcom.com
Paranet, Inc.
http://www.paranet.com/         BOYCOTT INTERNET SPAM http://www.vix.com/spam 

------------------------------

From: Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 15:44:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Akzo Coatings (was: Series One Colors)

>From their webpage...

"Many business units of Akzo Nobel trace their origins to the 18th and 19th  
century. In paints and coatings the Sikkens brand was established in 1764 in  
Groeningen, the Netherlands, Sulfuric acid was first produced in Amsterdam in  
1835 by the Ketjen family. In North America many surfactants were produced by  
Armour & Co. founded in 1860 and a number of industrial chemicals produced by  
Stauffer in the 1880's."

--
Christian Kuhtz <ckuhtz@paranet.com>                      kuhtz@ix.netcom.com
Paranet, Inc.
http://www.paranet.com/         BOYCOTT INTERNET SPAM http://www.vix.com/spam 

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Fuel Tanks
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 08:46:39 +1030

The threads on fuel tanks are interesting to follow.
The Australian Army had dual tanks fitted in all their Series IIA rovers.
They were under the seats on each side and were filled via normal fillers
at the side. The tanks were the standard 10-11 gal units
There was a change over tap on the front of the seat box, and a switch on
the dash to switch over the sender units as there was only one fuel gauge
When they went to the Series III, they went back to 1 tank under the driver
seat, but it was the "L" shaped 16 gal tank due to the 2.6 litre six
cylinder engine, and the fact that they went back to one tank.
I've recently fitted another 16 gal tank under the pass seat on my LWB ex
army Series III, and fitted the filler into the body side after I picked up
an old complete Series 2A six cylinder LWB.
The tank from this bolted straight into the Series III as the forward
chassis mounting was already there. All I had to do was weld on a piece of
right angle to bolt the front of the tank to.
Total fuel capacity is now 32 gals, plus 2 jerry cans equals 42 gals, or
around 600 miles. The only downer is filling them all up before a long
trip!!!!
Alan
Ex Australian Army LWB FFR MP
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443
 

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 09:22:55 +1030

The passenger side mirroe should have a longer arm than the driver side
which will make it easier to use.
Alternatively, change the mirrors over to the hinge mounter ones and things
improve a little. They still vibrate though
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: John J. Tackley <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> could actually see following traffic.
> I think that for those mounted to the roof rail, a short length of fuel
or 
> heater hose with a 'v' notch in one end (for the mirror arm) and a
suction 
> cup glued to the other end (for the windscreen) would end the 'vibes',
too.  
> (Anyone out there with a Toyota or similar import will remember the 
> short rubber piece between the rr view mirror and windscreen....same 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> * '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
> * '81 300SD *
> * '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Aussie Land Rovers in 'Nam
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 08:55:12 +1030
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

By coincidence, I've just scanned a couple of photos of Aussie Land Rovers
in Vietnam and have attached them to this note.
They are in JPEG format
They show the front guard (fender) layout quite well
Alan
Ex Army LWB FFR MP

Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Subject: Series Is in Korea
> Date: Saturday, 11 January 1997 04:27

> The Australians used Series IIa 109 Land Rovers with odd fender cutouts,
> Volkswagen vans, Holden sedans; all with RHD and US 5 ton multifuel 6x6
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> compound.  Could dig out negatives if anyone is doing serious research.
> Having made the acquaintance of the Australian Army Land Rover mechanics,
I
> was amazed that they used commercial LR spare parts.  This was quite
> different from US Army practice.  Their driving style was different too,
as
> they flogged their vehicles mercilessly winding them up, at full
throttle,
> in each gear, going through traffic circles in four wheel power drifts.
> This usually sent the locals scattering, yelling "uc dai loi", referring
to
> the orange kangaroo decals on the fenders and doors.  Olive Drab Cab
drivers
> didn't even consider a Land Rover broken in till it had a gone over a
> hundred thousand miles.

> Paul Donohue
> Denver
> 1965 LR Dormobile
> compound.  Could dig out negatives if anyone is doing serious research.
------=_NextPart_000_01BBFF9D.28022C40

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 09:07:08 +1030

Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
> Date: Friday, 10 January 1997 04:15

> Puting on my best "But, Officer!..." face, I trudge downthe hill to meet
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
my
> fate, onlt yo be met by a smiling cop exclaiming "I haven't seen one of
> these things since 'Nam!" He proceeded to tell me all about the radio
vans
> and service haks that the Aussies used - mostly 6-cylinder 109 regulars,
> either open backed or fitted with FFR bodywork and additions.
> Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
I'm not sure that the Australian Army ever used Series 3 rovers in Vietnam,
in which case they would have been Series 2A's with 4 cyl engines.

I've just posted a couple of photos of the Aussie 2A's in a previous
posting
Alan
Ex Army LWB FFR MP
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Capstan winch drive attachment?
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 09:21:02 +1030

I picked up one of these some long while ago and fitted it to my old 2A
lwb.
I was able to borrow a set of the mounting plates that bolt onto the engine
and hold the winch engaging dog in place. They were easy to have made up
and all went well after that.
The Land Rover manuals have good diagrams of the whole set up - let me know
if you want a copy of the appropriate pages and I'll send it to you 
I'm also told, but am not 100% sure that the engaging shaft ( the one thats
about 6 inches longish) is out a Series I gearbox or clutch engaging shaft?
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: Frank Bokhorst <bokkie@uctvms.uct.ac.za>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 60 lines)]
> personal e-mail: bokkie@psipsy.uct.ac.za
> University of Cape Town

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 18:07:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Tailgate Chain Music?

On Fri, 10 Jan 1997, Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> wrote:
>>>	Bondage in an 88" eh...  Always figured they were a bit short for
>>>	that kind of thing.

>Funny, Russ Wilson mentions a twelve-year-old girl and suddenly Mr. Zipkin
>is back amongst us...

I don't remember Russ saying anything about age....I think you fantasies are 
running away again, Jeff.  Just close you eyes and repeat after me "there's no 
place like home, there's no place....."  :)

Rgds,

_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 11:07:00 EST

Australian Forces used a lot of LRs in Vietnam.

I recall one of the guys at work saying how an American
Heli pilot offered to swap Huey (Iroquois) for his FFR
(Signals) Landy.  Australian Army probably wouldn't
 have accepted that they got a good deal.

Ron
> Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if Rovers were used by British
> Forces in Korea 50-53?

Someone many years ago told me they drove a L/R in Korea, or was it
Vietnam. I forget which. Anyway, they were doing recon or something
with a British group and that's what they were using.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Scientific mystery (no true LR content)
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 11:07:00 EST

Richard wrote:

> NO2 (nitrous oxide, like car
>fumes,like? shurely not) and CO2 is approx.  4%...  [me bored? its actually
>a simple calculation, honest]

Actually, I think Nitrous oxide is laughing gas, sometimes used by dentists.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 19:06:40 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Dinghy Hoops

>Regarding Jeff Berg's post on the Sunfish dinghy vehicle top carry,
>the dilemma of single hoisting has never been a problem.

You're apparently stronger, or at least quite a bit taller, (no wise-cracks
Russ W, I already spared you once today...) than I am.

>You are correct
>that a trailer is one solution, but in my opinion, not optimum.

However, I agree with you on this point.  I don't like pulling a trailer
very much--it just gives me too much to think about.

Anyhow, right after posting my answer I remembered I don't have to worry
about this anymore.  If I need my Sunfish, or any boat I might borrow,
transported I won't do it myself.  I'll just call Zippy Tow!

Seriously, please let me know how the hoops work out.  I can always start
dating tall women who love to sail...

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 19:12:56 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate Chain Music?

Eric Zipken, aka EZ-E, propriator of Zippy Two rants:

>I don't remember Russ saying anything about age....I think you fantasies are
>running away again, Jeff.

The sad truth is that Eric is having reading problems again...he must have
been out all night on a towing call.

I quote...

>She's a bit on the short side.  But then again she's only 12.

>Russ W.

RoverOn!

J "A is for..." B

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:12:27 -0800
From: Michael Slade <Slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea

>Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if Rovers were used by British
>Forces in Korea 50-53?

Wes,

Rumor has it that there is at least 1 series 1 86 inch hidden at the base
in Yong San.  I was on the base there several times years ago (88-90), but
alas, didn't see it.  Then again, that was before I even knew what a series
1 was.

You might call the base and see who might know.

Good luck,

Michael

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 97 11:07:00 EST

< Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if Rovers were used by British
< Forces in Korea 50-53?
According to Taylor & Morrison's MODERN MILITARY LAND ROVERS, 1971-1994,
they were there, and it was their first war service.

Did Australian forces use them in Korea?

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:22:05 -0800
From: Michael Slade <Slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re: Ser. IIA 109 5-dr. SEAT BELTS

>William Mitchell wrote:
>> I would appreciate any advise or experience to share.  Specifically, is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>cheers,
>Jeremy

I've mounted Saab 900 retractor seatbelts to all seats in my 109 SW except
for the center rear which has a VW lap belt (to mount the baby's car seat
with).

I had to do absolutely no modifications to mount the front belts in, just
used existing holes.  The rears were a different story.

I fabricated mounting brackets with 3 inch diameter 1/8 inch plate aluminum
backing plates for each bracket (4 in all).  I used eye bolts through the
floor for the center belts, all of which are affixed by the use of climbing
caribiners.

All in all I'm very satisfied, and a fellow 109 SW owner is going to do
pretty much the same mods I've done as they are expecting any time.

If you'd like more detailed instructions, please e-mail.

Later,

Michael

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:55:17 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Fairy or Toro, My OD Experience

At 12:08 AM 1/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>TORO seemed to be everything I had expected from the new Fairy and more.

My 109" had a TORO on it when I bought it in '90.  At first, I had a bit of
a problem shifting out of overdrive -- 'til Scotty looked at it and
determined that the shift lever was hitting the front of the middle seat.
Bending it out a we bit fixed that.  A few years back, Rachel and I were
headed north to Canada and the lever came off in my hand.  Shifted out of OD
with a screwdriver, got it welded back together in the morning, and I was
back in business.  Other than that, it's been wonderful.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 22:52:50 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Suck vs. Blow 

On Fri, 10 Jan 1997, Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> wrote:

>IMOH I'd prefer positive to negative pressure when trying to bleed something.
>I suspect you stand a better chance of pushing bubbles out than sucking them
>since the negative pressure will tend to trap micro bubbles in irregularities.

Thanks for the response but would that be true? In either case the fluid flows 
simply because of a pressure gradient - the absolute pressure at the reservoir 
end is higher than at the bleed end. How the gradient is generated is immaterial 
to a bubble, except if the difference is large. With a large difference, suction 
would reduce the pressure in the system and cause bubbles to get bigger. The 
pressure difference when using suction is actually quite small though, less than 
0.1 bar. Pressure from the master cylinder would compress any bubbles, tending 
towards your microbubbles. Pressurizing the system with a 30p.s.i. tyre, i.e. 2 
bar above ambient, would reduce the volume of any bubble to a third of its size. 
 

My guess is that that a good flow removes any bubbles. 

One obstacle to this has been reported a few times - flushing the system from 
under the truck often means emptying the reservoir and having to start again, 
and then doing it a 2nd time. The ROW D90 (and presumably the NAS 90) has a 
large brake reservoir. However, the clutch reservoir is tiny and two pumps on 
the pedal will drain it. My solution, based on suction from the slave cylinders, 
was to hang a bottle of DOT4 above the reservoir, with a single silicone tube 
from the bottle ending at the fill level of the reservoir. Fluid flows when 
needed, maintaining the level in the reservoir.  
Allan

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 00:01:54 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Doug Richardson

Paul Donohue wrote:

>The builder of the TDI campers is Doug Richardson...Malibu, CA.

Gald to see he is still involved with Rovers!  I bought a spin on oil-filter 
conversion from him in '77 - all subsequent ones are based on his design.
At the time he was fabricating these "demolition bumpers" out of box-welded 
steel that could function as engine or gear oil reservoirs for expedition 
work.  If he is still fooling around with Rovers, I'd love to see some of 
his recent work...I'll bet it's top-notch.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 00:01:47 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Belts v. gears

Franz Parzefall is weighing the cost benefits of Zeus timing gears vs. the 
timing belt.  True, the belt is *far* cheaper...unless it breaks.  Then the 
Zeus gears look *cheap*.  I've seen three engines (none that I owned) with 
broken timing belts at Interstate speeds, and they were, well, scrap.

Even though I have a timing chain, I would happily replace it with the Zeus 
unit if I could.  I just can't believe they cost that much.  The last time 
anyone around here checked, the cost was less than half that - under a 
thou..  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 01:02:14 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Doug Richardson

I looked for the article in Offroad on the newstand yesterday.
Unfortunately, the January issue has already been pulled.  Does anyone who
has a copy of the article also have access to a copying machine?  If so,
please contact me back channel.

Best Regards, RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Is in Korea 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 02:57:16 -0700 (MST)

< Did Australian forces use them in Korea?

I don't really know, but I doubt it.  LRs had only just been introduced 
in the British Army, which still favored the Austin Champ at the time.  
Australia's contribution to the war was a single infantry battalion 
(actually 3 during the course of the war, on rotation).  I doubt such a 
battalion would have had any significant number of Land Rovers at the 
time; more likely none at all.  Other armies provided the support 
services in the Commonwealth Brigade.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 12:17:19 +0100
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@swipnet.se>
Subject: Remote control on Disco

On my -96 Disco I have had trouble with the remote control for the
central lock/alarm system. This was from the beginning. I bought the car
in Nov. 96. The system seems very insensible and especially in cold
weather (below -5=B0C) it is sometimes impossible to get a reaction from
the lock.
The service station har looked upon it and cannot see anything wrong.
Has anyone the same experience? Advice?

Jan

Jan Engborg, M.D.
General medicine
Sandviken, Sweden
engborg@swipnet.se

------------------------------

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