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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Ian Stuart" [ian.stuart | 39 | Re: Capstan winch drive attachment? |
2 | "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo | 20 | [not specified] |
3 | ASFCO@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
4 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 19 | Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
5 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 34 | Original Perkins? |
6 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@cr | 20 | Re: Perkins? |
7 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 16 | Re: Three fuel tanks |
8 | NADdMD@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
9 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 27 | Re: Perkins Diesel in a 65 SIIA? |
10 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 18 | Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
11 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 20 | Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
12 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 31 | Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
13 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 18 | Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
14 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 22 | Re: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? |
15 | Peter Reynolds [Peter_Re | 5 | I don't know if it has been said but near the end of the movie Bad Boys there is a nice series truck cab. do i get a mug too? |
16 | NADdMD@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
17 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
18 | Alain-Jean PARES [Alain- | 29 | Blue smoke |
19 | hank.gregory@merrillcorp | 7 | subscribe |
20 | hank.gregory@merrillcorp | 7 | subscribe |
21 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@cr | 23 | Re: Blue smoke |
22 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 37 | Re: Blue smoke |
23 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 11 | Antiburst latch needed |
24 | Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo | 19 | shocking upgrades |
25 | Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo | 44 | 59 88 work todate |
26 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 28 | Re: shocking upgrades |
27 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 41 | Re: 59 88 work todate |
28 | Simon Ward-Hastelow [sim | 9 | [not specified] |
29 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 28 | RE: shocking upgrades |
30 | lopezba@atnet.at | 45 | Winter tips + safety |
31 | lopezba@atnet.at | 47 | Re: High-ratio transfer box |
32 | wleacock@pipeline.com | 14 | Overdrive |
33 | wleacock@pipeline.com | 28 | Rear light |
34 | wleacock@pipeline.com | 21 | Overdrive |
35 | wleacock@pipeline.com | 20 | Capstan |
36 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 38 | Capstan winches |
37 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 32 | Exhaust studs |
38 | Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo | 32 | Re: shocking upgrades |
39 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 20 | Re: Exhaust studs |
40 | Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo | 48 | Re: 59 88 work todate |
41 | Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo | 19 | RE: shocking upgrades |
42 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 15 | Rim Width was Re: shocking upgrades |
43 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 18 | Re: 59 88 work todate |
44 | Tom Spoto [tspoto@az.com | 10 | Balloon by Rover |
45 | David Place [dplace@mb.s | 16 | Re: Seeking Tail Lens Number |
46 | Allan Smith [smitha@cand | 24 | Re: Blue smoke |
47 | DONOHUEPE@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
48 | DONOHUEPE@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
49 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 15 | RE: Balloon by Rover |
50 | Granville Pool [gpool@pa | 39 | Re: What is an Ibex? |
51 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 19 | Re: What is an Ibex? |
52 | Garret Scott [scottgs@us | 50 | Fairy or Toro, My OD Experience |
53 | rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa | 19 | Scientific mystery (no true LR content) |
54 | Paul Oxley [paul@adventu | 14 | Sighting... |
55 | Mike Crosson [mike_cross | 13 | unsubscribe |
56 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 24 | Re: 59 88 work todate |
57 | Marko Ylikorpi [marko.yl | 32 | OD |
58 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 3 | [not specified] |
59 | "Franklin H. Yap" [FHYap | 16 | Re: shocking upgrades |
60 | Peter Kutschera [peter@z | 23 | Re: Blue smoke |
61 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 73 | RE: shocking upgrades |
62 | "T. Stevenson" [gbfv08@u | 28 | RE: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix |
63 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@cr | 13 | Re: Winter tips + safety |
From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:14:08 +0000 Subject: Re: Capstan winch drive attachment? On 8 Jan 97, Frank Bokhorst wrote: > capstan winch he had lying around, to fit my 1957 SI, but there is a > problem - the drive mechanism is incomplete, and I have to make up > the missing parts. The Aeroparts & Fairey winches are different. From your description of the propshaft, I'd guess it's an Aeroparts unit. The 1.6l engine mountings are different to the later 2.0 & 2.25 engines. Superwinch cannot help with any Aeroparts spares, though they do stock some Fairey parts. My advice is to find an optional equipment manual which lists the winch you've got (series I's and the forward control IIa's) and look at the exploded diagram... As a summary (aeroparts winch): The starter dog is removed and a plate & new bolt (5/8 UNF) are bolted in it's place. The end of the propshaft near the engine has the sliding dog that engages onto the drive-plate. The frame that holds the end of the propshaft is bolted to the front of the engine. I know this is vague, but with the exploded diagram, it should help.. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) Phone: +44 131 650 3027 Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team, University Computing Services, Edinburgh University. Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Perkins? Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 07:20:38 -0600 From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> All- I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a couple years ago from the original owner. It has what the owner calls a 2.25L "Perkins Diesel" engine which he says is the original engine as the manuals with the vehicle show how to service it. Can this be that this is the original engine as the owner claims? Maybe its not really a Perkins and is just an original LR Diesel that someone along the way has termed a Perkins. If it really is original, did Land rover import any of its diesels to the US back in '65? He has the original bill of sale from 1965 and it was purchased in the US. Rovers North (after I asked them) said that Perkins were not used by LR. Any ideas? HC ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 14:56:37 GMT > I was wondering if anyone out there has had experience with > or would care to offer recommendations or disuasions on [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > So far I've talked to LEGS and Cambs. 4x4. > All input pos. and neg. appreciated. Ditto for SIII. It would be nice to rebuild one myself, but heard so many stories... Perhaps fit it myself, if I can find a few bear-bribe-able people (have some marked, already...). Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake me thinks, too... Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:50:13 -0800 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: Original Perkins? HC asks about a Factory Perkins Powered Rover: I believe this falls into the folk-lore catagory, along with Rolls-Royce engines (there were just a few made for evaluation by the army), and magnesium bodies (Birma-bright is an aluminum alloy). The Rover diesel has some design things in common with the Perkins, (CAV/Lucas pump, indirect injection, cylinder liners, 4-cylinder) which is only natural since they're both English designs, but is not a Perkins-designed or built engine. 1965 would be a normal year for an imported diesel (who knows what year they were first brought in?). The other diesels I'm familiar with around here all seem to be '64 and '65 vintage, except for one '71 "gray-market". My diesel engine was sold as a boat motor by Rover through Mercruiser dealers, but I don't know the exact year. If your's really is a Perkins, it should still be a nice motor, but probably slow (they don't rev as high as the Rover) unless other changes were made (diffs, tranny, transfer case, OD, etc). The head engineer that designed the TDi came from Perkins, so they are even more in common now. I've heard that a Rover engineer travelling in the US trying to sell Diesel boat motors saw a Buick 215 in a boat shed, leading to it's use in Rovers today. Cheers, John Ousterhout '64 109 5-door diesel "Safari-SoGoodi" >All- >I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] >Any ideas? >HC ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 08:36:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Perkins? If it's a 2.25, I'd suspect it to be the Rover unit, not a "perkins" Diesel. It's easy enough to tell if you can get a good look at it. The LR Diesel and petrol 2.25 blocks are identical externally. As an amusing side note, I was reading some bit of documentation that said that LR actually sold the Diesel to a company that resold them as marine engines. I should go nose around Gloucester and look for small Diesel fishing boats - wonder how many have LR Diesels? ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 10:17:56 +0000 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Three fuel tanks I got a nice all brass/stainless four way valve from JC Whitney, of all places. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 10:35:20 +0000 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Perkins Diesel in a 65 SIIA? > I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a > couple years ago from the original owner. It has what the owner calls a > 2.25L "Perkins Diesel" engine which he says is the original engine as the > manuals with the vehicle show how to service it. If the owners manual has service info on the engine that's actually in the L/R, it's a L/R diesel. Perkins didn't make a 2.25l, LAnd Rover didn't use the Perkins. The most common conversion is the Perkins 4.208, second most is the 4.192, I believe. The easiest way to tell is on the L/R diesel the injection pump is mounted vertically on the right side of the engine (viewed from the drivers seat) and on the Perkins it's mounted horizontally on the left side. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 16:34:48 GMT > In a message dated 97-01-08 09:59:02 EST, you write: > << Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > me thinks, too... >> > Don't kid yourself Richard...getting into the handbrake is never a good time So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out? Over the past few days, I've had trouble adjusting the handbrake (previously I found I had to do it every few months), so I suspect they're pretty worn. Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 11:46:14 -0500 (EST) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? On Wed, 8 Jan 1997 NADdMD@AOL.COM wrote: > In a message dated 97-01-08 09:59:02 EST, you write: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > Don't kid yourself Richard...getting into the handbrake is never a good time > Nate I'll second that motion...it was a miserable job even in the middle of a frame replacement adventure. I found lots of oil and crap in the drum. Replace the rear seal if you are going to bother to venture into the beast... cheers Russ W. 67 RHD "The Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 11:54:00 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? >>Ditto for SIII. It would be nice to rebuild one myself, but heard so many >>stories... like what??? try it. go slowly and carefully, and stop when things get frustrating. If you're unsure of yourself, work with someone who's done one or two (or more), or find a place (like Rovers North over here) that can advise you over the phone. You'll learn alot and you'll better understand how the tranny works, so you'll feel better about the noises it makes...(or worse as the case may be). I did mine, 'twas the first one Id done, and so far its okay. Knock on wood. If something goes wrong I'll know what to do, instead of being out 1500 bucks or more to have someone else do it. >Perhaps fit it myself, if I can find a few bear-bribe-able people (have >some marked, already...). Bring it over...:-) Seriously, this is the easy part. >>Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake me thinks, too... And the broken return springs, and clean out the adjusters, expander, and replace/rebuild the rusted together linkage... Cheers and good luck DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 12:01:22 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out? Infinitely. The linkage is still a right bastard though. Over the past few days, I've had trouble adjusting the handbrake (previously I found I had to do it every few months), so I suspect they're pretty worn. I cant imagine that they would wear that fast. Seems to me the only time they wear is when you (1) try to drive with it on, or (2) adjust it too tight. Is this correct or am I missing something? DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers? Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 17:19:29 GMT > So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out? > Infinitely. The linkage is still a right bastard though. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > time they wear is when you (1) try to drive with it on, or (2) adjust > it too tight. Is this correct or am I missing something? I have to admit the former, about 2 months ago. But this is only possible when its "coming up for another adjustment" IYSWIM, if its been recently adjusted, the truck would jerk/judder with it on, so you'd never get more than about 10m before you realised what had happened! This little memory lapse would account for recent problems, but not why I had to adjust it every few months beforehand. Perhaps I have some slack in the linkage that's creeping in? Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Reynolds <Peter_Reynolds@imarketinc.com> Date: 8 Jan 97 11:21:09 Subject: I don't know if it has been said but near the end of the movie Bad Boys there is a nice series truck cab. do i get a mug too? ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alain-Jean PARES <Alain-Jean.Pares@InfoRoute.CGS.Fr> Subject: Blue smoke Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:36:20 +0100 Hello, as usual I have some problems with my Landie, Now It's blue smoke, enough to have firemen following me. Compression were done last week, 30 to 34 bars (not so good, but not so bad for an 85000 Miles diesel) Valve clearance was checked, It was not OK, but corrected, and still smoking, No Oil in Water, so I don't know. May be I'll change the head gasket. Going to York, UK friday by night, I'll buy gaskets, (so expensive here in France) if you know other parts to change or things to check before the rebuild, please tell me. Waiting for comments... An other thing, when I turn left, the radius is better than if I turn right (sorry for my english, but i don't know how to say it), and the lock nuts aren't too tight, so ??? Alain-Jean.Pares@inforoute.cgs.fr Paris, FRANCE Proud but unlucky owner of a 88 Serie III Diesel ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hank.gregory@merrillcorp.com Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 09:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: subscribe subscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hank.gregory@merrillcorp.com Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 09:03 -0600 (CST) Subject: subscribe subscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:48:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Blue smoke If compression's OK and the valves are adjusted right, I'd be sorely tempted to try another brand of Diesel or a bottle of fuel conditioner. Seems to me you might have gotten some bad fuel. Re: Turning radius: Check the stops on the swivel balls to make sure they are adjusted right. Also, check the steering box to make sure the arm is pointing straight down whenthe wheels are pointed straight ahead. Lastly, check to make sure that the arms on the steering relay (the bit in the front chassis crossmember) are at a right angle to each other. If not, adjust as necessary. Bonsoir, Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:28:51 +0000 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Blue smoke > Hello, as usual I have some problems with my Landie, > Now It's blue smoke, enough to have firemen following me. Based on my Perkins fault finding chart (but should apply to most 4 stroke diesels) here are possible causes for blue/white smoke: incorrect grade of lube oil faulty cold start equipment incorrect fuel pump timing (injection pump) incorrect valve timing poor compression head gasket leak cold running worn cyl bores broken, worn or sticking piston ring worn valve stems and guides over full air cleaner or wrong grade oil in it piston seizure damaged valve stem oil seals Looking at the list, will lead you to the fact that oil burning is one cause. If you eliminate everything else, you may have good compression rings, but bad oil control rings. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 15:13:48 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Antiburst latch needed Anybody got a right side SIII door handle/latch assembly? A friend needs one and I just sold my spare to a guy in oregon... Im in the DC/MD/VA area DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:33:26 -0800 From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> Subject: shocking upgrades Howdy, On our 59 88 I am planning to put in new shocks and tires, and we are trying to keep the beastie as stock and original as possible/reasonable. Question is, will going with Bilsteins or OME shocks/suspension still be considered stock and does that change the wheel clearance? Since trying to get "stock" tires isn't planned, we are considering a variety of tires most likely BFG TracEdges if we can get them. The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out). Do I need to stay with tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit this with the planned shocks? I don't want any tire rubbing and I don't really want to be lifting the truck. All comments welcome. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:52:54 -0800 From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> Subject: 59 88 work todate I recently started putting new parts on Rosie. Bought complete new exhaust system from manifold on out. New wiring harness, hoses, knobs, rubber boots, gas tank, ground strap and brakes. Having read all of TerriAnn's ordeal, I don't feel so bad. I sure thought some of these replacements would go back in a lot quicker than they did, but it seems from TerriAnn's much greater experience that my timing isn't unreasonable. Seems the amount of time taken is pretty expected: DAYS. A couple of comments to make: There has been recent comments on ground straps. I finally replaced the whimpy strap that went from earth to frame with a NAPA Beldon strap to the engine (water pump bolt). I did this because having put everything back together, I couldn't get the engine to fire and the starter struggled (even after recharging the battery multiple times). Putting the strap to the engine block gave an immediate improvement (as did sanding all starter bound electrical connections). This still didn't help enough, and I therefore decided to get a new battery. What a difference. I think I had a dud battery. The engine cranked and cranked, wouldn't start and finally I got out and walked around the engine compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!! I replaced the brakes with a complete new kit including adjusters as I thought they were shot (the serations appeared worn- they weren't compared to the new adjusters). Word of warning to any doing this: the adjusters don't come off easily!! I tried an air hammer which shot metal off to a point. But this process also damages the backing plate hole where the adjuster bolt comes through - don't use an air chisel. The easy way turns out to be hacksawing the bolt off starting the cut between the high and low part of the cam and cutting all the way through (use a screwdriver to open the cut from time to time). Overall, the process is pretty easy. I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the way to the floor board. At this point I am assuming that I still have air in the line, the adjustments are off on the master cylinder/pedal, or the master cylinder seals are allowing blowby (no leaks anywhere). Any ideas???? With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable?? ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:58:30 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: shocking upgrades Clayton Kirkwood wrote: > The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have > tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out). Woah! Surely you mean the current tires are 7.5x16 and the rims are the standard 16" LR rims? > Do I need to stay with > tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > really want to be lifting the truck. > All comments welcome. 7.5x16 Trac Edges work fine. I use them on Mathilda (65 SIIA) tubeless with 16" rims and a number of other folks are using the same. The tire size you mention implies you have 16" rims. BTW have you considered Rancho shocks? These are pretty common relacements for the LR shock on Series vehicles. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 13:08:25 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate Clayton Kirkwood wrote: > finally I got out and walked around the engine > compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!! Ah yes, cause and effect :) snip > I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the > way to the floor board. At this point I am assuming that I still have air in > the line, the adjustments are off on the master cylinder/pedal, or the > master cylinder seals are allowing blowby (no leaks anywhere). Any ideas???? Back to one of our favorite threads :) I'd say you've picked the likely causes. Do you have or know someone with an Eezibleed? I'd recommend it for bleeding the system. > With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the > tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat > themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable?? ?? OK you lost me here. Do you mean the steering is stiff or the rolling? I don't think there's an issue of tire seating, so whatever's going on it's something else. (you aren't used to power steering by any chance? :) ) Ah, it just occurred to me. If its rolling that you're complaining about, maybe you've got the brake pads misadjusted against the drums. Perhaps that has lead to problems in getting the brakes set up properly leading to a loose pedal? cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Phone Number for Mantec? Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 21:24:06 -0000 From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com> Mantec Services (UK) +44 1203 395368 Address: Unit 1, The Green, Hartshill, Nuneaton, Warwickshire, CV10 0FW ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: RE: shocking upgrades Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 08:57:00 EST Clayton Kirkwood on Thursday, 9 January 1997 6:33AM >will going with Bilsteins or OME shocks/suspension still be considered >stock and does that change the wheel clearance? Changing your shock should have no effect on clearance (assuming the shock is the correct length and not bottomed out when the car is stationary) Vehicle height is set by the springs i.e., spring rate, camber etc. Changing your shackles on a series vehicle will increase clearance. Changing the shocks changes the damping of the spring on compression or rebound. >the rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have Are you sure? This is a very wide rim for a Landie. Are the tyres 7.50 x 16? I don't have a LR but I think the 7.50 x 16 is standard size. Regards Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:46:04 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Winter tips + safety Dear all, the following tips aply to early Series vehicles, come from the Series One Newsletter, were written by Stafford Dovey and stolen by me: ==================== Winter tips Oil Bath Air Cleaner Drain and wash out and refill with SAE 20 or even hydraulic jack oil. It really works. Old or thick oil will reduce suction and centrifugal effect and cause a richer mixture. A Hot Air Intake will rdeuce carb icing. 40 deg F is a common situation for problems: Up to 1954: remove pre-cleaner and connect duct to draw hot air from exhaust manifold. 1955 on: is difficult, but with long ducting run from carb over exhaust and back to air cleaner the problem is solved. If a 2 inch steel or even copper pipe is available, lay on exhaust manifold and connect either end to carb and air cleaner. This would be ideal. Fit Radiator Muff and close up when frosty. Also, if really cold, consider removing fan blades; rebolt pulley, substitute some washers or nuts for fan blade thickness. Fit 82 Deg C Thermostat. An engine below its ideal running temperature of 75-80 deg C is ineffective, wears, uses more petrol, ices up, has a useless heater and is a pig to drive. I know, I started in 1964 and I still have that 86... and it was colder then! And petrol was 5 gallons for 1 pound... yes, and 2 quid would fill a tank. ==================== There is also an article on Emergency lights with Series One Wiring. If any body is interested, let me know and I can fax a copy. Regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:46:09 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: High-ratio transfer box Oscar Beasley wanted to know about the high-ratio xfer box. Sorry to be so late in replying, but somebody broke into my provider's computer over the weekend and caused a lot of havoc. If anybody mailed me directly, btw, and haven't had any response yet, could they please mail me again? Anyway, here's what Ian, a pro LR mechanic, wrote to me when I asked a similar quaestion on uk-lro: >Subject: Re: High ratio transfer cases >Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 11:28:37 GMT >Organization: Forest Landrovers 4 x 4 Centre >On Sat, 13 Jan 1996 16:06:56 +0100, you wrote: >|>Oh Series Sages, >Organization: Forest Landrovers 4 x 4 Centre >|>Does anybody have anything to say about such a conversion? Does anybody >|>know anything about Automatic Conversions (Ian and David Ashcroft), the only >|>supplier I could come up with? >Ian Ashcroft is the supplier and I can thoroughly reccomend his products. I have used an uprated transfer box (they come in both +15% and +30%). You are quite correct that it reduces the revs but this isn't a problem with the LR units. Be sure of your requirements though because what the LR units do suffer from is the fact that they run out of steam when over geared. My advice is to do it in stages. Borrow an overdrive and make sure you can live with a permanent +28% before commiting to an uprated t/fer box. EMail me with more details of what you are trying to achieve and I let you know the correct combination. <snip> >Regards, Ian > Forest Landrovers' 4 x 4 Centre : Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK > +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132 >------------------------------------ Ian's advice is usually very sound. Hope this helps Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: wleacock@pipeline.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:02:03 -0500 Subject: Overdrive The instructions advise against using in 1 and 2 gears, however mine has been fitted to many different vehicles and competed off road, I used to find low 2nd overdrive a fine gear for my 2a diesel when trialling, the overdrive has driven several hundred thousand miles for 2 rebuilds- bearings and seals only, however it is noisy. I also used to enter UK speed events in low ratio overdrive in a 2a diesel it has survived so far ( I know !! it is now doomed !! ) Regards Bill leacock Limey in exile ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: wleacock@pipeline.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:20:18 -0500 Subject: Rear light Mark asks I am seeking a parts source for the II/IIA Lucas tail lens. I thought the Lucas number was something like L692, but I 0was given the number LU5457721. Does someone know if this was superceded? The lucas model No is L692 Part number 54636A which was superseded by 56137 in the early 70's it is the zstop tail for USA LR's and many other vehicles I used to take them from Commer vans in the UK because they were fitted into the body and did not get all the road crud thrown up on them to reduce the life The lens is lucas part number 54572774 in 1967 and part number 5481204 ion the 1972 catalogue A similar model 691 was available with amber or clear lenses for front lights and flashers Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile Bill Leacock Limey in exile 89 RR; 67 - 109 and early 88. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: wleacock@pipeline.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:23:44 -0500 Subject: Overdrive From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Regarding the Fairey OD topic of late, is this OD similar to the planetary gear Normanville de Laycock 0.802 unit, as used in Triumphs, except for the engagement mechanism? Mark Completely different animals, the Laycok goes one gearbox output and extends the gearbox length whilst the fairey firs in the PTO hole at the end of the mainshaft, before the final output from the transfer box Regards Bill Leacock Bill Leacock Limey in exile 89 RR; 67 - 109 and early 88. ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: wleacock@pipeline.com Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:30:03 -0500 Subject: Capstan Frank writes Subject: Capstan winch drive attachment? After a long wait I managed to persuade a friend to sell me an old capstan winch he had lying around, to fit my 1957 SI, but there is a problem - the drive mechanism is incomplete, and I have to make up the missing parts. What I have is a short shaft that fits with a The fitting instructions for the capstan winch are in the ser 1 and series 2 workshop manualsa and clearly show the assembly and parts Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile Bill Leacock Limey in exile 89 RR; 67 - 109 and early 88. ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:42:41 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Capstan winches Frank Bokhorst is having a spot of trouble getting his capstan winch to fit. I hope you didn't pay *too* much for it, Frank, as incomplete capstans are worth, well, not too much. From the diagram, it appears to be the Aeroparts model, not the Fairey....and it appears that the only part that is missing is the flange that repalces the starter dog/nut on the crankshaft. The final "drive" to the engine will be this flange with three "fingers" which will engage six or nine holes on the (missing) engine-side flange. (Dixon - I mailed you a copy of the manual for the AeroParts winch. Did it ever make it onto the FAQ? Haven't visited in a while.) Needless to say, without one or more of these all-important bits, the winch ain't worth much. But, if you do have to fabricate the missing flange, it is the *easiest* one to do. Seals and bearings are cheap and easily available at any good bearing supply shop. As to fitting the engagement brackets, there are three bolt holes on the bottom front of the engine that apparently aren't used for anything else. Take a close look...you'll see 'em. Two close together on the left side, one more on the right. But then if you don't have this bracket, well, give up right there. The one problem with the Aeroparts model is that there isn't enough clearance between the male and female drive flanges to slide on a new fan belt should yours break. You have to remove the bracket to do so. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:42:38 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Exhaust studs Ashley Charlwood writes: >Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the >manifold is in place? No...but why would you want to? It's *far* quicker to get the manifolds out of the way and use a *propper* tool. And no, it's not vise (mole) grips. Get youself to Sears (or Snap-On, etc.) and buy a Craftsman stud removal tool. It's $20 cost will save you three times the amount in time and aggravation. "The right tool for the right job." - Mr. Natural. If the studs are knackered or bodged up by previous applications of vise grips, get out the propane torch. Heat the stud good 'n' hot, then apply liberal amounts of penetrating oil to the threads. When it quits smoking, twist out with the extractor tool. Anything less is likely to *break* the stud, and then you are well and truly buggered. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:47:04 -0800 From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> Subject: Re: shocking upgrades At 12:58 PM 1/8/97 -0800, Jeremy Bartlett wrote: >Clayton Kirkwood wrote: >> The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Woah! Surely you mean the current tires are 7.5x16 and the rims are the >standard 16" LR rims? Allright, my limited knowledge is showing again!! >) The tires say 7.5 x 16 and therefore the rims are 16 inches. >> Do I need to stay with >> tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >16" rims and a number of other folks are using the same. >The tire size you mention implies you have 16" rims. Is there any concern for offset? Do I have to be concerned that they come in tubed and tubeless offerings? And how do I make sure that my rims don't require tubes (or is that a stupid question???). I am pretty sure they aren't split rims. Thanks >cheers, >Jeremy >> this with the planned shocks? I don't want any tire rubbing and I don't >> really want to be lifting the truck. ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:44:22 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Exhaust studs Alexander P. Grice wrote: > If the studs are knackered or bodged up by previous applications of vise > grips, get out the propane torch. Heat the stud good 'n' hot, then apply > liberal amounts of penetrating oil to the threads. When it quits smoking, > twist out with the extractor tool. Anything less is likely to *break* the > stud, and then you are well and truly buggered. Not to be too picky (:) ), but it'd be better to heat the manifold and (if possible) cool the studs. That'll maximize the contraction/expansion difference on the threads making them the loosest. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:53:27 -0800 From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate At 01:08 PM 1/8/97 -0800, Jeremy Bartlett wrote: >Clayton Kirkwood wrote: >> finally I got out and walked around the engine [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >> compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!! >Ah yes, cause and effect :) Strange stuff!! >snip >> I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >I'd say you've picked the likely causes. >Do you have or know someone with an Eezibleed? I'd recommend it for bleeding the >system. I don't have an eezibleed but I do have and did use a one man bleeder and watched until no air bubbles came out thence closed off the nipple. >> With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the >> tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] >maybe you've got the brake pads misadjusted against the drums. Perhaps that >has lead to problems in getting the brakes set up properly leading to a loose pedal? >> With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the Sorry, rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are misadjusted against the drums, (that is why when the adjuster is all the way in I still get rubbing and have to strong arm the wheel to rotate it). I have checked them to ensure that the upper spring isn't interfering with the cam and the cam is rotated so that it doesn't push the pad out. It still seems odd that I should have trouble rotating each wheel. >cheers, >Jeremy >> themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable?? Thanks Clayton ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:55:42 -0800 From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> Subject: RE: shocking upgrades At 08:57 AM 1/9/97 EST, Beckett, Ron wrote: >>the rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have >Are you sure? This is a very wide rim for a Landie. Are the tyres 7.50 x [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >Regards >Ron You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means. Thanks Clayton ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:59:39 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Rim Width was Re: shocking upgrades Clayton Kirkwood wrote: > You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have > an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means. > That would be a rim 7.5 inches wide. Hence everyone's confusion that you were concerned about not lifting you truck and using stock shocks :) cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 17:03:29 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate Clayton Kirkwood wrote: > snip > Sorry, rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be > able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > seems odd that I should have trouble rotating each wheel. > Agreed. Have you tried backing the brakes all the way off the drum just to check. That would let you know if its the brakes dragging or something else (what??) cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 17:23:53 -0800 (PST) From: Tom Spoto <tspoto@az.com> Subject: Balloon by Rover I see that Branson's Balloon for the attempt to circle the earth was sponsored partly by Rover. To bad he had to set down in the Morrocan Desert. Tom 2 x 72 88's 1 x 67 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 19:14:44 -0800 From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Seeking Tail Lens Number Wdcockey@aol.com wrote: > > I am seeking a parts source for the II/IIA Lucas tail lens. I thought > > the Lucas number was something like L692, but I 0was given the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > Regards, > David Cockey I found a replacement for the large round tale light and the amber ones at a farm supply store in Manitoba. They are not exact but only a purest could tell the difference. The replacement is a bit higher in the middle than the original. Otherwise the diameter etc. is exact. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 22:01:27 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Subject: Re: Blue smoke On Wed, 8 Jan 1997, Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com wrote: > I'd be sorely tempted to try another brand of Diesel or a > bottle of fuel conditioner. Is there any US conditioner/injector cleaner that can be used neat? In the UK (as I was told by Ian) smoke associated with injector muck can often be reduced significantly by passing a filter-full of Forte DFC through. We can't get UK products here and I get to the US more often than to the UK, plus what is available here is from NAPA. Allan. Allan Smith Caribbean Natural Resources Institute Vieux Fort St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel +(758) 454 6060 Fax +(758) 454 5188 ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: RE: Balloon by Rover Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 13:17:00 EST Tom Spoto wrote onThursday, 9 January 1997 11:23AM >I see that Branson's Balloon for the attempt to circle the earth was >sponsored partly by Rover. To bad he had to set down in the Morrocan >Desert. One has to wonder how safe is a "Virgin" in the Morrocan desert? Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:11:43 -0800 From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net> Subject: Re: What is an Ibex? Don, > Can you provide more information about the Ibex? Is this like the Lotus 7 > of off-road cars? What does it use for engines and drive trains etc.? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Denver CO USA > 1965 LR Dormobile In a manner of speaking, it is rather like the Lotus Super Seven, or more accurately, the Caterham Super Seven of 4x4s. It has a spaceframe/rollcage stucture which is completely cross-drilled and galvanized with alumin(i)um panels bonded on. The panels have no curves, only folds to shape them. Very simple, very rugged, very rigid. The Ibex II 240, which has the same wheelbase as the Defender 90, has 85-degree approach and departure angles. Other than the frame and body, it's mostly Defender 90 componentry. A roll-over 90 is the typical donar vehicle for kit-built Ibices. Foers Engineering, which builds the Ibex, also builds complete vehicles with all new Land Rover components purchased from Land Rover. The typical engine is the 300tdi but V-8s have also been built (one was just completed for a Japanese customer). For more information, specifications, pricing, etc., check out Peter Bradley's Ibex home page on the web: http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm Peter has just uploaded (roughly) some nice photos of the Highland Enduro in which I participated, on a team of five Ibices (three Ibex I vehicles and two Ibex II). There's even a photo of yours truly. Cheers, Granny ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:15:31 -0800 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: What is an Ibex? At 10:46 PM 1/8/97, Paul Donohue <DONOHUEPE@aol.com> wrote: :On Tue, 7 Jan 1997 Granville Pool wrote about the Ibex. : :Dear Granny: :Can you provide more information about the Ibex? Is this like the Lotus 7 :of off-road cars? What does it use for engines and drive trains etc.? Paul, You're just going to have to wait for the next Aluminum Workhorse and read Granville's article there, complete with photos :) -Michael Carradine VP, LROA ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 00:08:26 -0500 From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net> Subject: Fairy or Toro, My OD Experience To all those contemplating thier first Land Rover Overdrive: A TRAIL OF TWO OVERDRIVES. In 1983 I ordered a brand new fairy overdrive, installed it in my '72 S-III 88. It worked. But, it was noisy, also didn't shift too well. Strangly my mileage went down. I began to wonder how low it could get, so I installed a Rochester carberettor (Whoops, a different story). Ok, back on the subject. I noticed that after about 20,000 miles, the Fairy OD got even noisier and harder to shift. It would usually shift up ok, but going down often left me stuck in OD nuetral (a power train black hole of sorts). Of course this always happend while going up a steep hill (guaranteed if an impressionable young lady was on board). I poured in 90 weight, then tried 140 weight, then 20w50, and lastly synthetic 90w. It all worked the same, loud and hard to shift. I did later discover that by quickly and carefully jamming a 30,000 ton boulder into the muffler and then rapidly removing it (the boulder), that the overdrive noise would decrease significantly. About four years later I acquired a Lightweight 88, so I installed the Fairy overdrive in it thinking maybe it would work better in a lower mileage vehicle. WRONG. The noise and shifting got so bad I finally just never shifted it unless I was at a dead stop. In the mean time (1986), my brother pulls a coupe and buys a used overdrive out of a wrecked rover for $200. Turned out to be a Toro overdrive. Reputedly had 80,000 miles on it (the wrecked rover had 140,000). We opened it up, sure looked clean inside. I happened to be working on my frame oiler (transmission), so as a test, on the TORO went with a custom fabricated shift lever to fit the lightweight. Low and behold the dang thing not only worked, but was QUIET. I mean it was QUIET!!!!!!!!!!!! And I could SHIFT IT!!!!! It would shift up or down, any speed, any gear. No more stuck in neutral problem. And did I mention how quiet it ran! Amazing we thought. The old TORO seemed to be everything I had expected from the new Fairy and more. The TORO Overdrive has been on my Leightweight almost ten years (69,000 miles) now. I have changed it's oil 3 or 4 times (the TORO, not the Rover). That's all the maintenance I have done to it. The TORO still works twice as good as the Fairy ever did, and is ten times quieter. I don't know if the TORO is still made or available. But my recommendation to anyone contemplating an overdrive for thier Land Rover is to get a SANTANA TORO, or don't get an overdrive at all. My Fairey overdrive sits in a box, buried in the attic of my garage. I havn't thrown it away yet, I guess I just can't bear to, considering my investment. But I might as well, I can't sell it in good faith, it would just let down another Rover owner. Besides, it needs at least two bearings after 20,000 miles of use :( Garret Scott KB4QGN ~67 Air Portable "Nigel" ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 00:20:45 -0300 From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian) Subject: Scientific mystery (no true LR content) Hello the list, Today's paper had an intresting factoid that science apparently cannot figure out, so I am turning to the real experts... The bubbles in Beer (Lagers, Porters, Ales, etc.) rise to the top, In Guinness, they sink to the bottom. No mention was made of any other stout, just the "Celebrated Irish beer Guinness". Go figure. OK,... so whats the Gospel according to Rover? you can lead a horse to water, but if the silly beast drinks till he bursts, all you have to show for your good intentions is a dead horse. Steve Paustian Flatland Rover Society ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 07:26:02 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Sighting... Here's a first: Spotted metallic green (dark) NAS90, softtop with full jungle gym on William Nicol offramp onto Western Bypass in Johannesburg SA yesterday. Don't get me wrong, Land-Rovers are ten a penny over here, but a North American spec? Wow. Paul Oxley http://www.adventures.co.za ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 8 Jan 1997 19:37:00 +0000 From: Mike Crosson <mike_crosson@premiermags.co.uk> Subject: unsubscribe UNSUBSCRIBE Land-Rover-Owner mike_crosson@premiermags.co.uk From: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net on Wed, Jan 8, 1997 7:22 pm [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)] >X-edited-by: LRO-Lite >Message-ID: <bulk.20616.19970108111140@Land-Rover.Team.Net> ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 16:23:00 EST >With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble >rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be >able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are >misadjusted against the drums, (that is why when the adjuster is all the Clayton How did you get the drum on over the brake shoes if it is that tight that you can't get the wheel to revolve? Start by taking your wheels and drums off again and check for correct positioning of the brake shoes. Make sure the adjuster is wound right back before the drum goes on. The extra thickness of the brake linings shouldn't prevent the drum rotating. After you get it on, and before you fit the wheels, do a basic adjustment to get it close. You should be able to rotate the wheels at this stage. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 10:55:48 +0200 From: Marko Ylikorpi <marko.ylikorpi@ltk.hut.fi> Subject: OD Hello everybody, A few weeks ago I asked for the pros and cons on installing an OD-unit into my SII. I haven't had time to do anything to my LR and it's burried under a pile of snow, but I've been asking around for the so called high-speed transfercase with no luck. I remember reading something about them here on the list a while ago, but now I can't find it. Could somebody tell me who makes/sells them here in Europe and possibly the phonenumber or address. A friend of mine has the Fairey OD in his SIII diesel. The interesting part is that the dealer who sold him the unit told him to use normal 10W-30 motoroil in it. Sounds strange to me, does anybody have comments on this? So far the OD has been working fine with 10W-30 in it. cheers, Marko Marko Ylikorpi Teknillinen korkeakoulu Lahden keskus Niemenkatu 73 15210 Lahti Puhelin 040-582 6964 Fax 03 -783 4512 ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 01:21:17 -0800 From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: shocking upgrades Clayton Kirkwood wrote: > On our 59 88 I am planning to put in new shocks and tires, and we are trying > to keep the beastie as stock and original as possible/reasonable. The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have > tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out). Does the '59 88 have a 2 liter engine? If so, will it have adequate power for 750x16s? Frank ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:17:08 +0100 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Blue smoke Hello! My LR ('68 SIIA 109 SW) also produced lots of blue smoke, even after the engine has warmed up, until I replaced the injectors. Maybe it would be cheaper for you to have the injectors cleaned and adjusted but the prices for this work are horrible here in austria so I ordered rebuild one from England. BTW I'm now at 11 l Diesel per 100 km, was 12.5 before. Good luck Peter -- Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think.... Homepage: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: shocking upgrades Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 11:29:29 +-100 Clayton Kirkwood[SMTP:kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com] wrote: You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means. 16 inch diameter, 7.5 inch wide. Fine match for a tyre 9.5 to 11 inch wide on the tread. I think You will get some marks in the wing on a standard Rover :-) Happy Rovering Bent _____________________________________ Bent Boehlers Herlev, Denmark e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542 110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955 begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(B8*`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`' !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&<`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W M;F5R0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970`4TU44 !,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W;F5R M0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970``!X``C !````!0```%--5% `````'@`# M, $````E````3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T M``````,`%0P!`````P#^#P8````>``$P`0```"<````G3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/ M=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T)P```@$+, $````J````4TU44#I, M04Y$+5)/5D52+4]73D520$Q!3D0M4D]615(N5$5!32Y.150````#```Y```` M``L`0#H!`````@'V#P$````$`````````R=.`0B !P`8````25!-+DUI8W)O M<V]F="!-86EL+DYO=&4`,0@!!( !`!8```!213H@<VAO8VMI;F<@=7!G<F%D M97,`P@<!!8 #``X```#-!P$`"0`+`!T`'0`$`"<!`2" `P`.````S0<!``D` M"P`9`!L`! `A`0$)@ $`(0```#8T-T,R-S R,#0V040P,3$Y.$8Q,# V,#A# M0T8S-3,W`.0&`0.0!@`T! ``$@````L`(P```````P`F```````+`"D````` M``,`-@``````0 `Y`, I^/X7_KL!'@!P``$````6````4D4Z('-H;V-K:6YG M('5P9W)A9&5S`````@%Q``$````6`````;O^%_[G`B=\96H$$="8\0!@C,\U M-P``'@`># $````%````4TU44 `````>`!\,`0````\```!B8D!O;&EV971T M:2YD:P```P`&$.X5B\ #``<0E@$``!X`"! !````90```$-,05E43TY+25)+ M5T]/1%--5% Z2TE22U=/3T1 4U12241%4D9-24Y414Q#3TU74D]413I93U5! M4D5224=(5"Q-64U)4U1!2T542$5425)%4T%213<U6#$V3D]45$A%4DE-4TD` M`````@$)$ $```"^`@``N@(``)($``!,6D9UB;\'T_\`"@$/`A4"J 7K`H,` M4 +R"0(`8V@*P'-E=#(W!@`&PP*#,@/%`@!P<D)Q$>)S=&5M`H,S-P+D!Q," M@S0$1A,S,2"["%4"@'T*@ C/"=D[%\]X,C4U`H *@0VQ"V!N\&<Q,#,-\ L* M%6$+\AIC`$ @"H4*BVQI,00X, +1:2TQ-#3/#? ,T!Z3"UDQ-@J@`V"5$]!C M!4!#"V!Y= (@@"!+:7)K=V\$<(!;4TU44#IK(46N0!/ !1 $@2X$4"X+@,D3 MT&PN!:!M71N/%D#T('<@0CH*AQ]O('(=+;PS-A\W%%$+\B V60A@$B *P&4@ M!1!G:'1P+"!M>2K@! `!D&N@92X@5&@J8'0A0 ,'D2I"-RXU('@@>2 `(&X@ M4"O@*\$%$&VB<RN022!D`B G!4"Y$8!V90J%`Y$+@&L=\&\:T"4@$8 %0&$L MB"VA(-YE+J #H > `'$N"H\;W_\R`BSQ"X 1<"X0!S '@!/0?G(JT"R2-&,# M\ VP,<9&]PN *F `P'0T@0(0+Q$KX/IY*E$Y+*$@\"S@%D UE]X@(0$M8B*P M,8!D,<8N`*\M8"]A*?,#\&P#(&<1P/P@<P-P-M(A4 0@"X M4Y\#\"^Q(0$P M,"M!;F0+$8\<I@@`+J %P#HM*1R\\$AA<' K`#Z3+Z$<O.I""?!T'+Q?0N]# M_T0@@T#O!4!";V5H; 20KG,_+0201J!V*M!$"? S/"(<O&4M`, #$#H@:&)B M0 ;P:2Z@`D!IQ"YD2*954DQ)\"JP0'1P.B\O=TP@+G$[D&]C:2OP!Y CHB\+ M!& @\'),D7DO,S5,-#(<O#AP,"(&`%1>5RS@$> 1L# `<RK05D(X*M Q.3@S M,=4@O#@V3S [T & (/!P*M#_$> =\#FQ4%(:$"=_'S<S%0LF_1;Q`%80```# M`! 0``````,`$1 `````0 `',(#%/&X7_KL!0 `(,(#%/&X7_KL!'@`]``$` 0```%````4D4Z( ````#7+P`' ` end ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:22:02 GMT From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: RE: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix Ron Beckett writes: >Re swivel ball seals, I notice that 4 Wheel Drives in Melbourne (Australia) > have a slpit seal that allows replacement without dismantling the front >end. >I think these are for Series vehicles and don't know if they fit Discos and >Rangies etc. If you carefully cut through a standard swivel seal for a Disco, Range Rover or Land Rover with a thin hacksaw you can fit it (with some cunning maneuvering) without dismantling the swivel and hub. Once fitted, stick the ends back together with superglue, and make sure the join is at the top. Do the same for the new joint gasket, although the best place for the cut is on the trailing side, just behind the fat bit at the top. I'm not sure that vents in the swivel housing would be a good idea. If the seals are in good order and the unit is not overfilled, then they don't leak. (for a while) Tom ________________________________________________________________________ Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk SNL Mussel Project Tel: 01475 530581 University Marine Biological Station, Millport Fax: 01475 530601 Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 06:31:26 -0400 Subject: Re: Winter tips + safety I'd love to see the emergency light article, provided it's not in German....8*). Getting the wife to translate things like that is always a pain. FAX here is 617-693-5561. Thanks, ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970109 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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