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From: "Ian Stuart" <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:14:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Capstan winch drive attachment?

On  8 Jan 97, Frank Bokhorst wrote:

> capstan winch he had lying around, to fit my 1957 SI, but there is a
> problem - the drive mechanism is incomplete, and I have to make up
> the missing parts.

The Aeroparts & Fairey winches are different. From your description 
of the propshaft, I'd guess it's an Aeroparts unit.

The 1.6l engine mountings are different to the later 2.0 & 2.25
engines. 

Superwinch cannot help with any Aeroparts spares, though they do 
stock some Fairey parts.

My advice is to find an optional equipment manual which lists the 
winch you've got (series I's and the forward control IIa's) and look 
at the exploded diagram...

As a summary (aeroparts winch): The starter dog is removed and a 
plate & new bolt (5/8 UNF) are bolted in it's place. The end of the 
propshaft near the engine has the sliding dog that engages onto the 
drive-plate. The frame that holds the end of the propshaft is bolted 
to the front of the engine.

I know this is vague, but with the exploded diagram, it should help..

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        Phone: +44 131 650 3027
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Subject: Perkins?
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 07:20:38 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

All-

I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a 
couple years ago from the original owner.  It has what the owner calls a 
2.25L "Perkins Diesel" engine which he says is the original engine as the 
manuals with the vehicle show how to service it.  Can this be that this 
is the original engine as the owner claims?   Maybe its not really a 
Perkins and is just an original LR Diesel that someone along the way has 
termed a Perkins.  If it really is original, did Land rover import any of 
its diesels to the US back in '65?  He has the original bill of sale from 
1965 and it was purchased in the US.  Rovers North (after I asked them) 
said that Perkins were not used by LR.

Any ideas?

HC 

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 14:56:37 GMT

> I was wondering if anyone out there has had experience with
> or would care to offer recommendations or disuasions on 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> So far I've talked to LEGS and Cambs. 4x4.
> All input pos. and neg. appreciated.

Ditto for SIII. It would be nice to rebuild one myself, but heard so many
stories...
Perhaps fit it myself, if I can find a few bear-bribe-able people (have
some marked, already...). Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake
me thinks, too...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:50:13 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Original Perkins?

HC asks about a Factory Perkins Powered Rover:
I believe this falls into the folk-lore catagory, along with Rolls-Royce 
engines (there were just a few made for evaluation by the army), and 
magnesium bodies (Birma-bright is an aluminum alloy). The Rover diesel has 
some design things in common with the Perkins, (CAV/Lucas pump, indirect 
injection, cylinder liners, 4-cylinder) which is only natural since they're 
both English designs, but is not a Perkins-designed or built engine. 1965 
would be a normal year for an imported diesel (who knows what year they were 
first brought in?). The other diesels I'm familiar with around here all seem 
to be '64 and '65 vintage, except for one '71 "gray-market". My diesel 
engine was sold as a boat motor by Rover through Mercruiser dealers, but I 
don't know the exact year. If your's really is a Perkins, it should still be 
a nice motor, but probably slow (they don't rev as high as the Rover) unless 
other changes were made (diffs, tranny, transfer case, OD, etc). The head 
engineer that designed the TDi came from Perkins, so they are even more in 
common now.
  I've heard that a Rover engineer travelling in the US trying to sell 
Diesel boat motors saw a Buick 215 in a boat shed, leading to it's use in 
Rovers today.

Cheers,
John Ousterhout
'64 109 5-door diesel "Safari-SoGoodi"

>All-
>I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Any ideas?
>HC 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 08:36:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Perkins?

If it's a 2.25, I'd suspect it to be the Rover unit, not a "perkins"
Diesel.

It's easy enough to tell if you can get a good look at it. The LR Diesel
and petrol 2.25 blocks are identical externally.

As an amusing side note, I was reading some bit of documentation that said
that LR actually sold the Diesel to a company that resold them as marine
engines.

I should go nose around Gloucester and look for small Diesel fishing boats
- wonder how many have LR Diesels?

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 10:17:56 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Three fuel tanks

I got a nice all brass/stainless four way valve from JC Whitney, of 
all places.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 10:35:20 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Perkins Diesel in a 65 SIIA?

> I am considering purchase of a 1965 IIA from a guy who had bought it a 
> couple years ago from the original owner.  It has what the owner calls a 
> 2.25L "Perkins Diesel" engine which he says is the original engine as the 
> manuals with the vehicle show how to service it.

If the owners manual has service info on the engine that's actually 
in the L/R, it's a L/R diesel. Perkins didn't make a 2.25l, LAnd 
Rover didn't use the Perkins.
The most common conversion is the Perkins 4.208, second most is the 4.192, I 
believe. The easiest way to tell is on the L/R diesel the injection 
pump is mounted vertically on the right side of the engine (viewed 
from the drivers seat) and on the Perkins it's mounted horizontally on 
the left side.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 16:34:48 GMT

> In a message dated 97-01-08 09:59:02 EST, you write:
> << Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>  me thinks, too... >>
> Don't kid yourself Richard...getting into the handbrake is never a good time

So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out?

Over the past few days, I've had trouble adjusting the handbrake (previously
I found I had to do it every few months), so I suspect they're pretty worn.

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 11:46:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

On Wed, 8 Jan 1997 NADdMD@AOL.COM wrote:

> In a message dated 97-01-08 09:59:02 EST, you write:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Don't kid yourself Richard...getting into the handbrake is never a good time
> Nate
I'll second that motion...it was a miserable job even in the middle of a
frame replacement adventure.  I found lots of oil and crap in the drum.
Replace the rear seal if you are going to bother to venture into the
beast...

cheers
Russ W.
67 RHD  "The Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 11:54:00 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

>>Ditto for SIII. It would be nice to rebuild one myself, but heard so many 
>>stories...

like what??? try it. go slowly and carefully, and stop when things get 
frustrating. If you're unsure of yourself, work with someone who's done one or 
two (or more), or find a place (like Rovers North over here) that can advise 
you over the phone. You'll learn alot and you'll better understand how the 
tranny works, so you'll feel better about the noises it makes...(or worse as 
the case may be). I did mine, 'twas the first one Id done, and so far its 
okay. Knock on wood. If something goes wrong I'll know what to do, instead of 
being out 1500 bucks or more to have someone else do it. 

>Perhaps fit it myself, if I can find a few bear-bribe-able people (have 
>some marked, already...). 

Bring it over...:-) Seriously, this is the easy part.

>>Good time to replace the shoes on the handbrake me thinks, too...

And the broken return springs, and clean out the adjusters, expander, and 
replace/rebuild the rusted together linkage...

Cheers and good luck

DaveB.
     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 12:01:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?

     
So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out?
     
     Infinitely. The linkage is still a right bastard though.
     
Over the past few days, I've had trouble adjusting the handbrake (previously 
I found I had to do it every few months), so I suspect they're pretty worn.
     
     I cant imagine that they would wear that fast. Seems to me the only 
     time they wear is when you (1) try to drive with it on, or (2) adjust 
     it too tight. Is this correct or am I missing something?
     
     DaveB.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: UK Rebuilt Gearbox/Trans Suppliers?
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 17:19:29 GMT

> So I hear, but it should be easier with the gearbox out?
>      Infinitely. The linkage is still a right bastard though.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>      time they wear is when you (1) try to drive with it on, or (2) adjust 
>      it too tight. Is this correct or am I missing something?

I have to admit the former, about 2 months ago. But this is only possible
when its "coming up for another adjustment" IYSWIM, if its been recently
adjusted, the truck would jerk/judder with it on, so you'd never get more than
about 10m before you realised what had happened!
This little memory lapse would account for recent problems, but not why
I had to adjust it every few months beforehand. Perhaps I have some
slack in the linkage that's creeping in?

Richard
    

------------------------------

From: Peter Reynolds <Peter_Reynolds@imarketinc.com>
Date:  8 Jan 97 11:21:09 
Subject: I don't know if it has been said but near the end of the movie  Bad Boys there is a nice series truck cab. do i get a mug too?

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Alain-Jean PARES <Alain-Jean.Pares@InfoRoute.CGS.Fr>
Subject: Blue smoke
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:36:20 +0100

Hello, as usual I have some problems with my Landie,

Now It's blue smoke, enough to have firemen following me.
Compression were done last week, 30 to 34 bars (not so good, but not so bad 
for an 85000 Miles diesel)
Valve clearance was checked, It was not OK, but corrected, and still 
smoking,
No Oil in Water, so I don't know.

May be I'll change the head gasket.
Going to York, UK friday by night, I'll buy gaskets, (so expensive here in 
France) if you know other parts to change or things to check before the 
rebuild, please tell me.

Waiting for comments...

An other thing, when I turn left, the radius is better than if I turn right 
(sorry for my english, but i don't know how to say it), and the lock nuts 
aren't too tight, so ???

Alain-Jean.Pares@inforoute.cgs.fr
Paris, FRANCE
Proud but unlucky owner of a 88 Serie III Diesel

------------------------------

From: hank.gregory@merrillcorp.com
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 09:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: subscribe

     subscribe

------------------------------

From: hank.gregory@merrillcorp.com
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 09:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: subscribe

     subscribe

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:48:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

If compression's OK and the valves are adjusted right,
 I'd be sorely tempted to try another brand of Diesel or a
 bottle of fuel conditioner. Seems to me you might have gotten some
bad fuel.

Re: Turning radius:

Check the stops on the swivel balls to make sure they are adjusted right.
Also, check the steering box to make sure the arm is pointing straight down
whenthe wheels are pointed straight ahead.
Lastly, check to make sure that the arms on the steering relay (the bit in
the
front chassis crossmember) are at a right angle to each other.

If not, adjust as necessary.

                    Bonsoir, Alan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 13:28:51 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

> Hello, as usual I have some problems with my Landie,
> Now It's blue smoke, enough to have firemen following me.

Based on my Perkins fault finding chart (but should apply to most 4 
stroke diesels) here are possible causes for blue/white smoke:

incorrect grade of lube oil
faulty cold start equipment
incorrect fuel pump timing (injection pump)
incorrect valve timing
poor compression
head gasket leak
cold running
worn cyl bores
broken, worn or sticking piston ring
worn valve stems and guides
over full air cleaner or wrong grade oil in it
piston seizure
damaged valve stem oil seals

Looking at the list, will lead you to the fact that oil burning is 
one cause. If you eliminate everything else, you may have good 
compression rings, but bad oil control rings.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 15:13:48 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Antiburst latch needed

     Anybody got a right side SIII door handle/latch assembly?
     A friend needs one and I just sold my spare to a guy in oregon...
     
     Im in the DC/MD/VA area
     
     DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:33:26 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: shocking upgrades

Howdy,

On our 59 88 I am planning to put in new shocks and tires, and we are trying
to keep the beastie as stock and original as possible/reasonable. Question
is, will going with Bilsteins or OME shocks/suspension still be considered
stock and does that change the wheel clearance? Since trying to get "stock"
tires isn't planned, we are considering a variety of tires most likely BFG
TracEdges if we can get them. The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have
tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out). Do I need to stay with
tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit
this with the planned shocks? I don't want any tire rubbing and I don't
really want to be lifting the truck.

All comments welcome.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:52:54 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: 59 88 work todate

I recently started putting new parts on Rosie. Bought complete new exhaust
system from manifold on out. New wiring harness, hoses, knobs, rubber boots,
gas tank, ground strap and brakes. Having read all of TerriAnn's ordeal, I
don't feel so bad. I sure thought some of these replacements would go back
in a lot quicker than they did, but it seems from TerriAnn's much greater
experience that my timing isn't unreasonable. Seems the amount of time taken
is pretty expected: DAYS.

A couple of comments to make:

There has been recent comments on ground straps. I finally replaced the
whimpy strap that went from earth to frame with a NAPA Beldon strap to the
engine (water pump bolt). I did this because having put everything back
together, I couldn't get the engine to fire and the starter struggled (even
after recharging the battery multiple times). Putting the strap to the
engine block gave an immediate improvement (as did sanding all starter bound
electrical connections).
This still didn't help enough, and I therefore decided to get a new battery.
What a difference. I think I had a dud battery. The engine cranked and
cranked, wouldn't start and finally I got out and walked around the engine
compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!!

I replaced the brakes with a complete new kit including adjusters as I
thought they were shot (the serations appeared worn- they weren't compared
to the new adjusters). Word of warning to any doing this: the adjusters
don't come off easily!! I tried an air hammer which shot metal off to a
point. But this process also damages the backing plate hole where the
adjuster bolt comes through - don't use an air chisel. The easy way turns
out to be hacksawing the bolt off starting the cut between the high and low
part of the cam and cutting all the way through (use a screwdriver to open
the cut from time to time). Overall, the process is pretty easy.

I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the
way to the floor board. At this point I am assuming that I still have air in
the line, the adjustments are off on the master cylinder/pedal, or the
master cylinder seals are allowing blowby (no leaks anywhere). Any ideas????
With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the
tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat
themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable??

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:58:30 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: shocking upgrades

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have
> tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out). 

Woah!  Surely you mean the current tires are 7.5x16 and the rims are the 
standard 16" LR rims?

> Do I need to stay with
> tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> really want to be lifting the truck.
> All comments welcome.

7.5x16 Trac Edges work fine.  I use them on Mathilda (65 SIIA) tubeless with
16" rims and a number of other folks are using the same.  
The tire size you mention implies you have 16" rims.

BTW have you considered Rancho shocks?  These are pretty common relacements
for the LR shock on Series vehicles.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 13:08:25 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> finally I got out and walked around the engine
> compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!!

Ah yes, cause and effect :)

snip

> I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the
> way to the floor board. At this point I am assuming that I still have air in
> the line, the adjustments are off on the master cylinder/pedal, or the
> master cylinder seals are allowing blowby (no leaks anywhere). Any ideas????

Back to one of our favorite threads :)

I'd say you've picked the likely causes.
Do you have or know someone with an Eezibleed?  I'd recommend it for bleeding the
system.

> With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the
> tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat
> themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable??

??  OK you lost me here.  Do you mean the steering is stiff or the rolling?
I don't think there's an issue of tire seating, so whatever's going on it's 
something else.  

(you aren't used to power steering by any chance? :) )

Ah,  it just occurred to me.  If its rolling that you're complaining about, 
maybe you've got the brake pads misadjusted against the drums.  Perhaps that
has lead to problems in getting the brakes set up properly leading to a loose pedal?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Phone Number for Mantec?
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 21:24:06 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

Mantec Services (UK)

+44 1203 395368

Address: Unit 1, The Green, Hartshill, Nuneaton, Warwickshire, CV10 0FW

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: shocking upgrades
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 08:57:00 EST

Clayton Kirkwood  on Thursday, 9 January 1997 6:33AM

>will going with Bilsteins or OME shocks/suspension still be considered
>stock and does that change the wheel clearance?

Changing your shock should have no effect on clearance (assuming
the shock is the correct length and not bottomed out when the car is 
stationary)
Vehicle height is set by the springs i.e., spring rate, camber etc. 
 Changing your
shackles on a series vehicle will increase clearance.
Changing the shocks changes the damping of the spring on compression or
rebound.

>the rims are  7.5 x 16s and currently have
Are you sure?  This is a very wide rim for a Landie. Are the tyres 7.50 x 
16?
I don't have a LR but I think the 7.50 x 16 is standard size.

Regards

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:46:04 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Winter tips + safety

Dear all, the following tips aply to early Series vehicles, come from the 
Series One Newsletter, were written by Stafford Dovey and stolen by me:
====================
Winter tips
Oil Bath Air Cleaner
Drain and wash out and refill with SAE 20 or even hydraulic jack oil. It 
really works. Old or thick oil will reduce suction and centrifugal effect 
and cause a richer mixture. 

A Hot Air Intake
will rdeuce carb icing. 40 deg F is a common situation for problems:

Up to 1954: remove pre-cleaner and connect duct to draw hot air from exhaust 
manifold.

1955 on: is difficult, but with long ducting run from carb over exhaust and 
back to air cleaner the problem is solved. If a 2 inch steel or even copper 
pipe is available, lay on exhaust manifold and connect either end to carb 
and air cleaner. This would be ideal.

Fit Radiator Muff
and close up when frosty. Also, if really cold, consider removing fan 
blades; rebolt pulley, substitute some washers or nuts for fan blade thickness.

Fit 82 Deg C Thermostat.
An engine below its ideal running temperature of 75-80 deg C is ineffective, 
wears, uses more petrol, ices up, has a useless heater and is a pig to 
drive. I know, I started in 1964 and I still have that 86... and it was 
colder then! And petrol was 5 gallons for 1 pound... yes, and 2 quid would 
fill a tank.
====================

There is also an article on Emergency lights with Series One Wiring. If any 
body is interested, let me know and I can fax a copy.

Regards

Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:46:09 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: High-ratio transfer box

Oscar Beasley wanted to know about the high-ratio xfer box. Sorry to be so 
late in replying, but somebody broke into my provider's computer over the 
weekend and caused a lot of havoc. If anybody mailed me directly, btw, and 
haven't had any response yet, could they please mail me again?

Anyway, here's what Ian, a pro LR mechanic, wrote to me when I asked a 
similar quaestion on uk-lro:

>Subject: Re: High ratio transfer cases
>Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 11:28:37 GMT
>Organization: Forest Landrovers 4 x 4 Centre

>On Sat, 13 Jan 1996 16:06:56 +0100, you wrote:
>|>Oh Series Sages,
>Organization: Forest Landrovers 4 x 4 Centre

>|>Does anybody have anything to say about such a conversion?  Does anybody 
>|>know anything about Automatic Conversions (Ian and David Ashcroft), the only 
>|>supplier I could come up with?

>Ian Ashcroft is the supplier and I can thoroughly reccomend his products. I 
have used an uprated transfer box (they come in both +15% and +30%). You are 
quite correct that it reduces the revs but this isn't a problem with the LR 
units. Be sure of your requirements though because what the LR units do 
suffer from is the fact that they run out of steam when over geared. My 
advice is to do it in stages. Borrow an overdrive and make sure you can live 
with a permanent +28% before commiting to an uprated t/fer box. EMail me 
with more details of what you are trying to achieve and I let you know the 
correct combination. 
<snip>
>Regards, Ian
>                Forest Landrovers' 4 x 4 Centre

:                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
>                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
>------------------------------------

Ian's advice is usually very sound.
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:02:03 -0500
Subject: Overdrive

The instructions advise against using in 1 and 2 gears, however mine has
been fitted to many different vehicles and competed off road, I used to find
low 2nd overdrive a fine gear for my 2a diesel when trialling, the overdrive
has driven several hundred thousand miles for 2 rebuilds- bearings and seals
only, however it is noisy.
 I also used to enter UK speed events in low ratio overdrive in a 2a diesel
it has survived so far ( I  know !! it is now doomed !! )
 Regards  Bill leacock  Limey in exile

------------------------------

From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:20:18 -0500
Subject: Rear light

Mark asks 

I am seeking a parts source for the II/IIA Lucas tail lens.  I thought
the Lucas number was something like L692, but I 0was given the
number LU5457721.  Does someone know if this was superceded?
 
 The lucas model No is L692 Part number 54636A which was superseded by 56137
in the early 70's
 it  is the zstop tail for USA LR's and many other vehicles I used to take
them from Commer vans in the UK because they were fitted into the body and
did not get all the road crud thrown up on them to reduce the life

 The lens is lucas part number 54572774 in 1967
and part number 5481204 ion the 1972 catalogue

 A similar model 691 was available with amber or clear lenses for front
lights and flashers

 Regards
 Bill Leacock  Limey in exile
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:23:44 -0500
Subject: Overdrive

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
   

Regarding the Fairey OD topic of late, is this OD similar to the 
planetary gear Normanville de Laycock 0.802 unit, as used in 
Triumphs, except for the engagement mechanism?  Mark 

 Completely different animals, the Laycok goes one gearbox output and
extends the gearbox length whilst the fairey firs in the PTO hole at the end
of the mainshaft, before the final output from the transfer box

 Regards  Bill Leacock
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 18:30:03 -0500
Subject: Capstan

Frank writes
Subject: Capstan winch drive attachment?

After a long wait I managed to persuade a friend to sell me an old
capstan winch he had lying around, to fit my 1957 SI, but there is a 
problem - the drive mechanism is incomplete, and I have to make up 
the missing parts.  What I have is a short shaft that fits with a 

 The fitting instructions for the capstan winch are in the ser  1 and series
2 workshop manualsa and clearly show the assembly and parts

 Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in exile
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:42:41 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Capstan winches

Frank Bokhorst is having a spot of trouble getting his capstan winch to fit. 
I hope you didn't pay *too* much for it, Frank, as incomplete capstans are 
worth, well, not too much.  From the diagram, it appears to be the Aeroparts 
model, not the Fairey....and it appears that the only part that is missing 
is the flange that repalces the starter dog/nut on the crankshaft.  The 
final "drive" to the engine will be this flange with three "fingers" which 
will engage six or nine holes on the (missing) engine-side flange.  (Dixon - 
I mailed you a copy of the manual for the AeroParts winch.  Did it ever make 
it onto the FAQ? Haven't visited in a while.)

Needless to say, without one or more of these all-important bits, the winch 
ain't worth much.  But, if you do have to fabricate the missing flange, it 
is the *easiest* one to do.  Seals and bearings are cheap and easily 
available at any good bearing supply shop.

As to fitting the engagement brackets, there are three bolt holes on the 
bottom front of the engine that apparently aren't used for anything else.  
Take a close look...you'll see 'em.  Two close together on the left side, 
one more on the right.  But then if you don't have this bracket, well, give 
up right there.  The one problem with the Aeroparts model is that there 
isn't enough clearance between the male and female drive flanges to slide on 
a new fan belt should yours break.  You have to remove the bracket to do so.

Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 19:42:38 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhaust studs

Ashley Charlwood writes:

>Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the 
>manifold is in place?

No...but why would you want to?  It's *far* quicker to get the manifolds out 
of the way and use a *propper* tool.  And no, it's not vise (mole) grips.  
Get youself to Sears (or Snap-On, etc.) and buy a Craftsman stud removal 
tool.  It's $20 cost will save you three times the amount in time and 
aggravation.

"The right tool for the right job." - Mr. Natural.

If the studs are knackered or bodged up by previous applications of vise 
grips, get out the propane torch.  Heat the stud good 'n' hot, then apply 
liberal amounts of penetrating oil to the threads.  When it quits smoking, 
twist out with the extractor tool.  Anything less is likely to *break* the 
stud, and then you are well and truly buggered.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:47:04 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: shocking upgrades

At 12:58 PM 1/8/97 -0800, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
>Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>> The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Woah!  Surely you mean the current tires are 7.5x16 and the rims are the 
>standard 16" LR rims?

Allright, my limited knowledge is showing again!! >) The tires say 7.5 x 16
and therefore the rims are 16 inches.

>> Do I need to stay with
>> tubed tires with these rims? Which TracEdges (or other tire size) should fit
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>16" rims and a number of other folks are using the same.  
>The tire size you mention implies you have 16" rims.

Is there any concern for offset? Do I have to be concerned that they come in
tubed and tubeless offerings? And how do I make sure that my rims don't
require tubes (or is that a stupid question???). I am pretty sure they
aren't split rims.

Thanks

>cheers,
>Jeremy
>> this with the planned shocks? I don't want any tire rubbing and I don't
>> really want to be lifting the truck.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:44:22 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust studs

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
 
> If the studs are knackered or bodged up by previous applications of vise
> grips, get out the propane torch.  Heat the stud good 'n' hot, then apply
> liberal amounts of penetrating oil to the threads.  When it quits smoking,
> twist out with the extractor tool.  Anything less is likely to *break* the
> stud, and then you are well and truly buggered.

Not to be too picky (:) ), but it'd be better to heat the manifold and (if
possible) cool the studs.  That'll maximize the contraction/expansion difference
on the threads making them the loosest.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:53:27 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate

At 01:08 PM 1/8/97 -0800, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
>Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>> finally I got out and walked around the engine
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> compartment awhile and recranked and the engine roared to life!! Yeah!!!!
>Ah yes, cause and effect :)

Strange stuff!!

>snip
>> I still can't get pedal resistance after bleeding the line - I go all the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>I'd say you've picked the likely causes.
>Do you have or know someone with an Eezibleed?  I'd recommend it for
bleeding the
>system.

I don't have an eezibleed but I do have and did use a one man bleeder and
watched until no air bubbles came out thence closed off the nipple.

>> With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the
>> tires, I assume this is due to newness and will they will quickly seat
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>maybe you've got the brake pads misadjusted against the drums.  Perhaps that
>has lead to problems in getting the brakes set up properly leading to a
loose pedal?
>> With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble turning the

Sorry, rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be
able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are
misadjusted against the drums, (that is why when the adjuster is all the way
in I still get rubbing and have to strong arm the wheel to rotate it). I
have checked them to ensure that the upper spring isn't interfering with the
cam and the cam is rotated so that it doesn't push the pad out. It still
seems odd that I should have trouble rotating each wheel.

>cheers,
>Jeremy
>> themselves and require new adjustment. Is this reasonable??

Thanks

Clayton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:55:42 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: RE: shocking upgrades

At 08:57 AM 1/9/97 EST, Beckett, Ron wrote:

>>the rims are  7.5 x 16s and currently have
>Are you sure?  This is a very wide rim for a Landie. Are the tyres 7.50 x 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Regards
>Ron

You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have
an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means.

Thanks

Clayton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 16:59:39 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Rim Width was Re: shocking upgrades

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:

> You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have
> an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means.
> That would be a rim 7.5 inches wide.  Hence everyone's confusion that you
were concerned about not lifting you truck and using stock shocks :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 17:03:29 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> snip

> Sorry, rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be
> able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> seems odd that I should have trouble rotating each wheel.
> Agreed.  Have you tried backing the brakes all the way off the drum just to check.
That would let you know if its the brakes dragging or something else (what??)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 17:23:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Balloon by Rover

I see that Branson's Balloon for the attempt to circle the earth was 
sponsored partly by Rover. To bad he had to set down in the Morrocan Desert.
Tom
2 x 72 88's
1 x 67 88 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 19:14:44 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Seeking Tail Lens Number 

Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:
> > I am seeking a parts source for the II/IIA Lucas tail lens.  I thought
> >  the Lucas number was something like L692, but I 0was given the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Regards,
> David Cockey

I found a replacement for the large round tale light and the amber ones 
at a farm supply store in Manitoba.  They are not exact but only a purest 
could tell the difference.  The replacement is a bit higher in the middle 
than the original.  Otherwise the diameter etc. is exact.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 22:01:27 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

On Wed, 8 Jan 1997, Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com wrote:

> I'd be sorely tempted to try another brand of Diesel or a
> bottle of fuel conditioner. 

Is there any US conditioner/injector cleaner that can be used neat? In the UK 
(as I was told by Ian) smoke associated with injector muck can often be reduced 
significantly by passing a filter-full of Forte DFC through. We can't get UK 
products here and I get to the US more often than to the UK, plus what is 
available here is from NAPA.

Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Balloon by Rover
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 13:17:00 EST

Tom Spoto wrote onThursday, 9 January 1997 11:23AM

>I see that Branson's Balloon for the attempt to circle the earth was
>sponsored partly by Rover. To bad he had to set down in the Morrocan
>Desert.

One has to wonder how safe is a "Virgin" in the Morrocan desert?

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:11:43 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: What is an Ibex?

Don,

> Can you provide more information about the Ibex?  Is this like the Lotus 7
> of off-road cars?  What does it use for engines and drive trains etc.?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Denver CO USA
> 1965 LR Dormobile

In a manner of speaking, it is rather like the Lotus Super Seven, or more 
accurately, the Caterham Super Seven of 4x4s.  It has a spaceframe/rollcage 
stucture which is completely cross-drilled and galvanized with alumin(i)um 
panels bonded on.  The panels have no curves, only folds to shape them.  Very 
simple, very rugged, very rigid.  The Ibex II 240, which has the same 
wheelbase as the Defender 90, has 85-degree approach and departure angles.  

Other than the frame and body, it's mostly Defender 90 componentry.  A 
roll-over 90 is the typical donar vehicle for kit-built Ibices.  Foers 
Engineering, which builds the Ibex, also builds complete vehicles with all 
new Land Rover components purchased from Land Rover.  The typical engine is 
the 300tdi but V-8s have also been built (one was just completed for a 
Japanese customer).  

For more information, specifications, pricing, etc., check out Peter 
Bradley's Ibex home page on the web:

   http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm

Peter has just uploaded (roughly) some nice photos of the Highland Enduro in 
which I participated, on a team of five Ibices (three Ibex I vehicles and two 
Ibex II).  There's even a photo of yours truly.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:15:31 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: What is an Ibex?

At 10:46 PM 1/8/97, Paul Donohue <DONOHUEPE@aol.com> wrote:
:On Tue, 7 Jan 1997 Granville Pool wrote about the Ibex.
:
:Dear Granny:
:Can you provide more information about the Ibex?  Is this like the Lotus 7
:of off-road cars?  What does it use for engines and drive trains etc.?

 Paul,

 You're just going to have to wait for the next Aluminum Workhorse
 and read Granville's article there, complete with photos :)

-Michael Carradine
 VP, LROA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 00:08:26 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Fairy or Toro, My OD Experience

To all those contemplating thier first Land Rover Overdrive:

		A TRAIL OF TWO OVERDRIVES.

In 1983 I ordered a brand new fairy overdrive, installed it in my '72 S-III 88.  It worked.  But, 
it was noisy, also didn't shift too well.  Strangly my mileage went down.  I began to wonder how 
low it could get, so I installed a Rochester carberettor (Whoops, a different story).   Ok, back on 
the subject.  

I noticed that after about 20,000 miles, the Fairy OD got even noisier and harder to shift.  It 
would usually shift up ok, but going down often left me stuck in OD nuetral (a power train black 
hole of sorts). Of course this always happend while going up a steep hill (guaranteed if an 
impressionable young lady was on board).  I poured in 90 weight, then tried 140 weight, then 20w50, 
and lastly synthetic 90w. It all worked the same, loud and hard to shift.  I did later discover 
that by quickly and carefully jamming a 30,000 ton boulder into the muffler and then rapidly 
removing it (the boulder), that the overdrive noise would decrease significantly. 

About four years later I acquired a Lightweight 88, so I installed the Fairy overdrive in it 
thinking maybe it would work better in a lower mileage vehicle.  WRONG.  The noise and shifting got 
so bad I finally just never shifted it unless I was at a dead stop. 

In the mean time (1986), my brother pulls a coupe and buys a used overdrive out of a wrecked rover 
for $200.  Turned out to be a Toro overdrive.  Reputedly had 80,000 miles on it (the wrecked rover 
had 140,000).  We opened it up, sure looked clean inside. I happened to be working on my frame 
oiler (transmission), so as a test, on the TORO went with a custom fabricated shift lever to fit 
the lightweight.  Low and behold the dang thing not only worked, but was QUIET.  I mean it was 
QUIET!!!!!!!!!!!!  And I could SHIFT IT!!!!! It would shift up or down, any speed, any gear. No 
more stuck in neutral problem.  And did I mention how quiet it ran!  Amazing we thought.  The old 
TORO seemed to be everything I had expected from the new Fairy and more.

The TORO Overdrive has been on my Leightweight almost ten years (69,000 miles) now.  I have changed 
it's oil 3 or 4 times (the TORO, not the Rover).  That's all the maintenance I have done to it. The 
TORO still works twice as good as the Fairy ever did, and is ten times quieter. 

I don't know if the TORO is still made or available.  But my recommendation to anyone contemplating 
an overdrive for thier Land Rover is to get a  SANTANA TORO, or don't get an overdrive at all.    

My Fairey overdrive sits in a box, buried in the attic of my garage.  I havn't thrown it away yet, 
I guess I just can't bear to, considering my investment.  But I might as well, I can't sell it in 
good faith, it would just let down another Rover owner.  Besides, it needs at least two bearings 
after 20,000 miles of use :( 

Garret Scott  KB4QGN

~67 Air Portable "Nigel"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 00:20:45 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Scientific mystery (no true LR content)

Hello the list,
        Today's paper had an intresting factoid that science apparently
cannot figure out, so I am turning to the real experts...
        The bubbles in Beer (Lagers, Porters, Ales, etc.) rise to the top,
In Guinness, they sink to the bottom.
        No mention was made of any other stout, just the "Celebrated Irish
beer Guinness".  Go figure.
        OK,... so whats the Gospel according to Rover?

you can lead a horse to water, but if the silly beast drinks till he bursts,
all you have to show for your good intentions is a dead horse.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 07:26:02 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Sighting...

Here's a first:

Spotted metallic green (dark) NAS90, softtop with full jungle gym on
William Nicol offramp onto Western Bypass in Johannesburg SA yesterday.
Don't get me wrong, Land-Rovers are ten a penny over here, but a North
American spec? Wow.

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: 8 Jan 1997 19:37:00 +0000
From: Mike Crosson <mike_crosson@premiermags.co.uk>
Subject: unsubscribe

UNSUBSCRIBE Land-Rover-Owner mike_crosson@premiermags.co.uk

From: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net on Wed, Jan 8, 1997 7:22 pm

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)]
>X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
>Message-ID: <bulk.20616.19970108111140@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: 59 88 work todate
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 16:23:00 EST

>With the wheel adjusters all the way out, I still have trouble
>rotating the tires while each is an inch or two off the ground to be
>able to set the brake adjuster. So yes, it may be that the pads are
>misadjusted against the drums, (that is why when the adjuster is all the

Clayton

How did you get the drum on over the brake shoes if it is that tight that
you can't get the wheel to revolve?

Start by taking your wheels and drums off again and check for correct
positioning of the brake shoes.   Make sure the adjuster is wound right
back before the drum goes on.  The extra thickness of the brake linings
shouldn't prevent the drum rotating.  After you get it on, and before you
fit the wheels, do a basic adjustment to get it close.  You should be able 
to rotate the wheels at this stage.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 10:55:48 +0200
From: Marko Ylikorpi <marko.ylikorpi@ltk.hut.fi>
Subject: OD

Hello everybody,

A few weeks ago I asked for the pros and cons on installing an OD-unit into
my SII.  I haven't had time to do anything to my LR and it's burried under a
pile of snow, but I've been asking around for the so called high-speed
transfercase with no luck.  I remember reading something about them here on
the list a while ago, but now I can't find it.  Could somebody tell me who
makes/sells them here in Europe and possibly the phonenumber or address.

A friend of mine has the Fairey OD in his SIII diesel.  The interesting part
is that the dealer who sold him the unit told him to use normal 10W-30
motoroil in it.  Sounds strange to me, does anybody have comments on this?
So far the OD has been working fine with 10W-30 in it.

cheers,

Marko

Marko Ylikorpi
Teknillinen korkeakoulu
Lahden keskus

Niemenkatu 73
15210 Lahti

Puhelin 040-582 6964
Fax     03 -783 4512

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 01:21:17 -0800
From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: shocking upgrades

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> On our 59 88 I am planning to put in new shocks and tires, and we are trying
> to keep the beastie as stock and original as possible/reasonable. 

 The rims are 7.5 x 16s and currently have
> tubes (in at least some - didn't check them all out).

Does the '59 88 have a 2 liter engine?  If so, will it have adequate 
power for 750x16s?

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:17:08 +0100
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

Hello!

My LR ('68 SIIA 109 SW) also produced lots of blue smoke, even after the 
engine has warmed up, until I replaced the injectors. 

Maybe it would be cheaper for you to have the injectors cleaned and adjusted 
but the prices for this work are horrible here in austria so I ordered rebuild
one from England.

BTW I'm now at 11 l Diesel per 100 km, was 12.5 before.

Good luck
 Peter

-- 
Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think....
Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: shocking upgrades
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 11:29:29 +-100

Clayton Kirkwood[SMTP:kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com] wrote:

You are right, my mistake. The tires are 7.5 x 16 not the rims. I don't have
an inkling what a 7.5 x 16 rim even means.

16 inch diameter, 7.5 inch wide.
Fine match for a tyre 9.5 to 11 inch wide on the tread.
I think You will get some marks in the wing on a standard 
Rover :-)

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

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end

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:22:02 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix

Ron Beckett writes:
>Re swivel ball seals, I notice that 4 Wheel Drives in Melbourne (Australia)
> have a slpit seal that allows replacement without dismantling the front 
>end.
>I think these are for Series vehicles and don't know if they fit Discos and 
>Rangies etc.

If you carefully cut through a standard swivel seal for a Disco, Range Rover
or Land Rover with a thin hacksaw you can fit it (with some cunning
maneuvering) without dismantling the swivel and hub.  Once fitted, stick the
ends back together with superglue, and make sure the join is at the top. Do
the same for the new joint gasket, although the best place for the cut is on
the trailing side, just behind the fat bit at the top.
I'm not sure that vents in the swivel housing would be a good idea. If the
seals are in good order and the unit is not overfilled, then they don't
leak. (for a while)

Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 06:31:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Winter tips + safety

I'd love to see the emergency light article, provided it's not in
German....8*).
Getting the wife to translate things like that is always a pain.

FAX here is 617-693-5561.

               Thanks, ajr

------------------------------

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