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Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 22:58:06 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re:Diesel engine conversion. 

G'day Quintin, you wrote this a few days ago:
>mmm...... :-) Bolts right on !?  Is this one of those where the 5sp is longer
>than the Rover gearbox ? I want to hear more info. Is this one of those
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Quintin Aspin
>Ps. anybody want a 109 hi-cap pick up ?
Well, I'm not in the market for a hi-cap pick up but yes the 5sp is longer
than the Rover gearbox. It is a "Marks" conversion kit and I bought the
tranny as a complete unit ready to bolt onto the transfer case. It was a
couple of years ago now so it well may have an adapter plate and it is well
disguised. I will check it out and get back to you!

Regards,
Phil Carkagis
S III 109 5 door
101 FC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 22:58:19 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re:Engine Conversion

Hi Garret. Last week you posted:
>I don't mean to be a transmission pooper here, but if a Ni**an Cab-Star

tranny bolts directly to 
>the Land Rover transfer case without any adapters, then why does Mark's 4x4
Adapters of Australia 
>sell an adapter to do this?  I just don't undertand.
>Mark's 4x4 adapters may be found at:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Conv/Eng.LR.html
>I must admit, it does sound like a promising combination with a true
"granny" 1st gear, and an 
>overdrive 5th.  If you don't mind moving the engine 4 inches farther
forward of course.  
>Considering the costs, I'll stick with the tranny and motor my LR was born
with.  Besides, if the 
>Ni**an transmission doesn't leak any oil, what will keep the Rover's frame
from rusting?
>Ni**an transmission doesn't leak any oil, what will keep the Rover's frame
I must plead loss of memory here (which many will agree with) as it was a
couple of years ago that the transmission was changed. As soon as it's light
I promise to crawl under the beast and have a good look at what is under the
oil/grease/mud etc around the component in question. My story- and I'm
sticking to it- is that the 5sp came built-up and apart from the thousand
other things that needed to be done only required bolting to the transfer case.

(Perhaps a drip-feed oil system into the chassis will solve the rust problem?)

Phil Carkagis
S III 109 5 door
101 FC

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Manuals and Books!
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 97 12:06:28 GMT

> Anyway, I find the righthand side one useful - this is fine. The left
> >one (opposite side to driver's side, next to useless), but I might as well have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> so I can see the rear lamp "basket",and the lower half of the N/S rear
> corner.Helps when shunting round car parks in reverse,too.

I rarely tow - ie. 2 cars! Also I find the "indents" are such that I can
either see my rear windows (have windows in the hardtop), or "too far".
Perhaps if I get a new one, I might be able to "fix it".

> >Another mirror problem, is the rear-view mirror which vibrates like nobody's
> >business - even with some lumps of lead strapped to it!
> Welcome to the club!I use the O/S door mirror instead...

Hmm, that's why the O/S mirror is *particularly* useful!   :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 07:38:19 -0500
Subject: Re: I see, you see, UAZ??

 The last time I was up at the port of Baltimore there were about 30 UAZ's
all lined up. I assumed they were for the central and south American market
due to what I thought were insurmountable federal regulatory difficulties.
Now I have seen several adverts regarding the little beasties and it is
rumored that there is a dealership in Northern VA. A couple of questions come
immediately to mind. First HOW do they get away with importing these things?
I cannot imagine that they comply with all the applicable regulations that
govern new cars and trucks i.e.: Airbags, obid II, side impact bars, etc,
etc. BUT they are here and on the streets ! I sense that there must be a
loophole here somewhere if we can only find it :-) Can you say ..IBEX boys
and girls? ( LR content :-) And how can I get a used one :-) If they were as
common and cheep as YUGOs .......... The mind boggles.
I just did a little research and found the UAZ web site.
It is
 http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/truck_tech/4x_trucks/uaz.htm
AND the corporate address
UAZ of America
1508 Moran Road, Dulles, VA 20166
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:10:34 -0500
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: OVLR Newsletter

    Just wanted to say that my OVLR cap goes off to Dixon for this months
fantastic newsletter. :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:46:36 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Land cruiser/rust

I suppose you could pump grease into the front end of a land cruiser...But
that don't make it right....I have a land cruiser parked right next to our
dormobile. The land cruiser is a valuable accessory to the dormobile as it
prevents the dormobile from rusting (I think it has something to do with the
path of least resistance) Rust is after all lazy..... Or is that efficient?
Anyway, I could be persuaded to sell this valuable accessory if the offer
was sufficient......Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:32:52 -0400
From: jim <jim@kidd.com>
Subject: ?rover questions?

my 1960 sII 88 has started to vibrate upon acceleration and deceleration
(when i take my foot off the gas) when i am just cruising it seems fine.
when my vehicle is in 4-wheel drive i can really feel the vibration. is
this an indication that the u-joints are going south?

on another note, while on a surfing/camping trip to panama city, FL in
early december, i stopped by the local super wal-mart to pick up some
reading material. in an obscure 4x4 magazine there was an article about the
camel trophy and another article about a man who builds 110 tdi campers
here in the u.s for domestic use. did anybody else see this article? does
anyone know who he is or how he gets these vehicles into the u.s. i really
got excited after reading the article, but i opted for another magazine.
:-( the guy is located somewhere in the west (california, arizona or the
like).

jim karantinos
tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:06:58 -500
Subject: Sighting

Last night during the local CBS affiliate's 11 PM news, saw a 
nationally run commercial ad for the American Red Cross.  
In the background, passing right to left was a white Defender 110, 
visable only from the bulkhead back, but easily identifiable.

Mug?
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:12:48 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Sighting

John J. Tackley wrote:
<SNIP>
> Mug?

RIGHT!  Still waiting for mine from the summer,  guess I should call
'em...
-- 
Mike Johnson

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:28:15 -500
Subject: OD

In the thread on overdrives, someone mentioned that design of the 
Fairey OD unit was such that it was not recommended to start off in 
first or second gear with the OD in high range and that usage should 
be limited to 3rd and 4th gears only.  
Can anyone confirm if this is indeed true?  What does, or did,  Land 
Rover officially recommend in the owners manual, assuming the OD is 
even mentioned, being an available genuine part.  
I have also observed that the Fairey unit does indeed synchromesh 
when shifting from low to high, but not from high to low, and 'double 
clutching' has little effect above about 15-20 mph.  I an aware that 
the units are weak and that grinding should be avoided religiously.  
Can I assume these points are true of all Fairey's ?
Has anyone tried synthetic 90wt (Mobil 1, or Valvoline 80w90, etc.) 
hypoid gear lube in the ODs ?  I use it in my Harleys transmission and 
when I switched from the dino to syn. I noticed a significant improvement 
in that noise level decreased and shifts became much smoother, that 
is to say that shifter action was much improved.  Also, when changing 
out the synthetic, it drained almost as clean as it went in.  
My OD does not leak as they are so often prone to do, so I am 
strongly contemplating swiching from the dino to synthetic hypoid.  
I'll stick with the $13.99 per 5 gallon bucket, Coastal 90wt for the tranfer 
case and tranny, at least until I replace the 'automatic frame oiler',  
otherwise known as the rear seal.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:45:11 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Leaking rovers

I havn't tried it yet but I just spent about 5 bucks on a little plastic
bucket with some sort of dessicant that supposedly will suck the moisture
out of the air....I surmise that the effect will be reduced during freezing
temperatures but we'll see how it works overall.....I picked the stuff up at
a marine supply company. In my example, I too have lots of leaks that I
havn't begun to address yet....I've got soaked flooring etc. that I want to
dry out.....Rob M Concord, MA USA..Good story what's the point???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:50:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: stir-crazy on the tundra...

On Tue, 7 Jan 1997, T.F. Mills wrote:

> Permission to use that wonderful "AP" piece?  I'm about to go to press, 
> so it won't be for this time...

	Sure, no problem here...

> Got your Christmas number today.  Pretty impressive!!  McD's Snow Jobs is 
> one the best laughs ever!

	Printer took their sweet time with the colour cover, but it turned
	out not too badly.  The advert for Zippy tow made it in, the calls
	are running 80% to join the expedition discussed in the back!
	(Alan's Camel Trophy by 80")... :-)  

	Rgds from the tundra,

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:14:14 -500
Subject: RR View Mirror Vibes...

...recently on the Digest...

>Another mirror problem, is the rear-view mirror which vibrates like
>nobody's business - even with some lumps of lead strapped to it!

I solved this one for $1.00.  Bought a suction cup mount compass, 
stuck it to the windscreen so that the compass 'ball' rests gently on 
top of the dash mounted mirror.  No more vibes.  
Now, if I could only see over the rear bulkhead mounted spare tire, I
could actually see following traffic.
I think that for those mounted to the roof rail, a short length of fuel or 
heater hose with a 'v' notch in one end (for the mirror arm) and a suction 
cup glued to the other end (for the windscreen) would end the 'vibes', too.  
(Anyone out there with a Toyota or similar import will remember the 
short rubber piece between the rr view mirror and windscreen....same 
principle.)
Re: passenger door mirror.  I can't seem to adjust my SIII mirror 
'in' enough to see the rear corner of the 88.  It would appear that 
the 'arm' needs a bend in it to accomplish this.  Anyone figured out 
a fix, other than throwing the damned thing away...?
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:20:49 -0400
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...

Re: S.III door mirror:

Is this the original mirror body? I've noticed that with
general-replacement ones, ofttimes they're wider and get into an
interference with the bottom edge
of the mirror and the mirror arm before they're adjusted properly.

On the older mirror mounts you coud shift the mount to fix this - dunno
about the newer hinges.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:04:00 -0700
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Re: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix

>> Dave Bobeck wrote:
>>> At least old Land Cruisers use grease.
>>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

>> They do ?? Or is ....

Dave,
yup old Land Cruisers use grease - I had one for over 10 years before I
wised up and got the Defender!  Your description of the 'front swivel
ball' is correct, the plug at the top has a square cap that a 13 mm
wrench fits, the plug itself looks like it uses pipe threads.  Remove
the plug, insert the end of your grease gun and pump away.  At every oil
change I used to give each a few pumps of grease to top up the
housings.  I think the manual recommends every 6 months or so.   I do
not remember seeing a drain of any sort. 

Chris Brosious
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:13:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Mirrors and vibration:

One of the things I missed most when transitioning from a safe, sane Mazda
to my 109 was:

a: an inside mirror big enough to be worth the effort, and

b: a day/night flip mirror for highway driving.

I solved both of these by tottering off to the nearest scrapyard and buying
the mirror from some miscellaneous Japanese pile of spare parts. I made
sure to choose one with a screw-mounted base rather than the
glue-on-the-window type, and mounted it on a small spacer block to the
bottom of my overhead console directly in front of the old mirror.

For 5 bucks (no good-sized pockets in the jacket that day...8*)  ) it was a
simplke elegant solution to a nagging design deficiency.

I left the old one in place, as it was covered anyway ansd figuring I'd
want it for ragtop time when the roof console would have to come out.

The new mirror is much nicer to use, doesn't vibrate nearly as much as the
old one, and has the dimming feature I missed.

                    For what it's worth.... -ajr

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 1997 16:05:15 +0000
From: Mike Crosson <mike_crosson@premiermags.co.uk>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe land-rover-owner mike_crosson@premiermags.c.uk

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 11:06:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Sighting

Me too.  Sent in four pictures (a U.S. Cav Store catalog I sent them, one
magazine photo I faxed in, two other photos I mailed) and not even a
acknowledgement!  At least you got something!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:31:13 -0400
Subject: Re: I see, you see, UAZ??

 I looked at the UAZ Web site - I can die happy now - I have finally seen a
vehicle uglier than a Land-Rover IIa!

God help us, the SUV version of the beast looks like a Studebaker Lark with
a canvas roof.

Leaf springs, too, as well as part-time 4WD and a 2.4 liter engine of 95
HP.

Except for the terminally ugly body, it sounds like a IIa in drag...

                         aj"But I'll keep my 109, thanks,"r

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 97 16:10:56 GMT

> ...recently on the Digest...
> >Another mirror problem, is the rear-view mirror which vibrates like
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> the 'arm' needs a bend in it to accomplish this.  Anyone figured out 
> a fix, other than throwing the damned thing away...?

My problem with the door mirror. 

As for the rear view mirror - good idea, I shall investigate doing something
similar...

richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:05:51 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Ibex Loophole (was Re: I see, you see, UAZ??)

Quintin Aspin said:

[snip]
>I cannot imagine that they comply with all the applicable regulations that
>govern new cars and trucks i.e.: Airbags, obid II, side impact bars, etc,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>and girls? ( LR content :-) And how can I get a used one :-) If they were as
>common and cheep as YUGOs .......... The mind boggles. [snip]

Actually, the Ibex should be importable, but not as a complete vehicle.  It
should--from what I've heard--be feasible in most if not all states to
import an Ibex kit (the standard form of availability, even in the UK),
together with a semi-parted-out D90, minus engine, then used the D90 parts
and a US-spec engine and register it as a kit car or reconstructed vehicle
(depending upon particulars in your state).  There is one LRO who's already
committed to bringing one over (it's been built and the donar vehicle
bought) and at least one other scheming seriously to do so soon (not I, alas!).

I recently had a chance to drive Pete Bradley's Ibex 240 (D90 wheelbase)
with 200tdi engine and twin air-lockers in the Highland Enduro as well as at
the Cheviot Hills off-road site at Wooler.  Truly awesome!  I also "toured"
the Ibexery in Rotherham and met the charming Mr. & Mrs. John & Christine
Foers.  Pete's Ibex web site may be found at:

    http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm

As soon as Pete gets his FTP software sorted, the web site will feature some
fresh (and clearer) photos from the enduro.

>I just did a little research and found the UAZ web site.
>It is
> http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/truck_tech/4x_trucks/uaz.htm

Horrid looking beasts!  But a couple of interesting details:  Although
standard on leaf springs, coils are optional.  Full-floating hubs front and
rear (a la Land-Rover) with optional (if I read it right) portal axles.
Sure would like to add those portal boxes to a Land Rover (or better yet an
Ibex)!

I captured the e-mail address from the web site and am going to send a
message to UAZA to ask about this US-importing business.

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
SIII 88" HT (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:13:55 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: sighting

I was sitting in Mcd restaurant with wife and son (in the play section) and
noticed that they have computers for the children to use.  These computers
display child type games and activities for pure entertainment.  On one
screen a green 109 with tire on the bonnet drove up and stopped.  At this
point I`m pushing kids out of the way to get to the screen in hopes of
finding the mystery  109.  Anyway, it`s a Richard Scarry animated story or
map-type maze on computer screens for children.  Anyone else see this?    J.C.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:27:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: sighting

On Tue, 7 Jan 1997, John & Sandy Cooper wrote:

> finding the mystery  109.  Anyway, it`s a Richard Scarry animated story or
> map-type maze on computer screens for children.  Anyone else see this? 

	As McDonalds marketing types scratch their heads at why all of a 
	sudden business is up...  :-)

------------------------------

From: mrrawlings@meto.gov.uk
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 17:21 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Disco hire in UK (9C50??)

 To all those enquiring minds...
 
 If you substitute 9C for a UK pound sign, I think it'll make 
 a little more sense!  i.e. 50 pounds.
 
 The Major obviously doesn't like funny English money!!
 
 The Disco in question was 90 pounds a day, by the way.
 
 ;)
 
 Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:41:39 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: ?rover questions?

>my 1960 sII 88 has started to vibrate upon acceleration and deceleration
(when i take my foot off the gas) when i am just cruising it seems fine.
when my vehicle is in 4-wheel drive i can really feel the vibration. is
this an indication that the u-joints are going south?<

Could this be a bad engine support or tranny support? If one of these 
cuts loose, it would certainly let you know with lots of wobs. U-joints 
are usually more subtle; they wear gradually until there is nothing left.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 97 09:54:17 cst
From: "Chris Stevens" <Chris_Stevens@sba.com>
Subject: Re: ?rover questions?

     
Check the propshaft bolts. Mine came loose about a year ago and I experienced 
the same symptoms.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD
> Subject: ?rover questions?
> Author:  Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com at INTERNET

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
> jim karantinos
> tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

Date: 07 Jan 97 13:03:02 EST
From: Ashley Charlwood <101320.2736@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Manifold studs.

Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the manifold is
in place??

Any help gratefully accepted as my LR is getting another dose of "its starting
to become time to sell you!"

Ashley.

Broken SIII Lightweight V8

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:07:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Koenig winches...

	For those with either the pto or crank driven Koenig winches, and
	that lack text on these things...

	http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.winches.koenig.html

	or just go to your bookmarked FAQ page and look under section
	six.  With the help of Ron Franklin, the manuals for both winches
	have been scanned in.  The parts manual and some advertising for
	the pto version is also up on the page.  Hope I haven't forgotten
	anything...  
 
	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:19:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Manifold studs.

In a message dated 97-01-07 13:06:16 EST, you write:

<< Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the
manifold is
 in place?? >>

I was able to do so by taking off the oil dipstick tube and left wing and
putting a small pipe wrench on the stud to twist it out (it took about twenty
minutes--could only go about a quarter turn at a time) but it worked.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:20:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Manifold studs.

I assume they're broken in place....

If they're not sheared off completely, warming the manifold with a propane
torch thoroughly then using mole grips on the defective stud usually works
for me.

If sheared completely off, do yourself a favor and yank the manifold to fix
it - anything else could be a nightmare.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 97 13:20:50 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...

Re: passenger door mirror.  I can't seem to adjust my SIII mirror 
'in' enough to see the rear corner of the 88.  It would appear that 
the 'arm' needs a bend in it to accomplish this.  Anyone figured out 
a fix, other than throwing the damned thing away...?
     
     Get a stick on blind spot mirror, put it in one of the lower corners. 
     Voila.
     They still mover aorund from vibration, but at least you can see 50% 
     of the time. ALso having the wing mirrors helps since they are more 
     focusable, but they always get knocked out of position and are 
     difficult to get aligned just right.
     Good ones are slightly convex so that you can see alot in them. Best 
     bet, get the D() style mirrors.
     
     lAter
     DaveB.
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:30:13 -0800
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Vehicle Use, Domestic vs. Import

Of course the uproar will ensue!

I imagine that this compares only late models and considering the elevated
price of late model rovers and their increasing complexity that many owners
purhcase them for the security in name and performance.

I wonder what the demographics of leaf sprung Rover owners and Toy*ta CJ's
versus domestic's of comparable vintage.

I know my Shiraz always breaks when I toss it in the back.

Paul G
SIII 88 "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:37:10 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Koenig winches...

snip
> 	the pto version is also up on the page.  Hope I haven't forgotten
> 	anything...  
snip
Dixon,
Looks good. I'd only add two things (so far).
Koenig still makes a winch almost identical to these (from the 
picture in a brochure I can't tell any difference), except that they 
are hydraulic. However, if you have a PTO you should be able to hook 
it up if you want a mechanical driven winch rather than a hydraulic 
one.

Also, *somewhere* there are parts for the old ones. Back around the 
late 80's I talked with Koenig and they still had parts left but were 
about to get rid of them (they normally sold parts for discontinued 
winches to someone in FL). The guy I spoke with was supposed to send 
me a list of the parts once he had it compiled. Unfortunately, I 
never heard back from him and I didn't pursue it. So, if they kept to 
their pattern, there are parts somewhere in FL.
If L/R owners ever needed a holy grail, maybe this is it. :-)

IMHO the most valuable parts would be the housings, especially the 
centre PTO housing, as most of the internals (shafts, bearings, seals, 
etc) can be purchased at bearing or power transmission shops.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:43:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Koenig winches...

On Tue, 7 Jan 1997, Tom Rowe wrote:

> Koenig still makes a winch almost identical to these (from the 
> picture in a brochure I can't tell any difference), except that they 
> are hydraulic. However, if you have a PTO you should be able to hook 
> it up if you want a mechanical driven winch rather than a hydraulic 
> one.

	Too bad you can't make the mechanical a hydraulic very easily

> Also, *somewhere* there are parts for the old ones. Back around the 
> late 80's I talked with Koenig and they still had parts left but were 
> about to get rid of them (they normally sold parts for discontinued 
> winches to someone in FL).

	They did get rid of the parts and a couple years back when I talked
	with them, they had no record on where the parts went

> IMHO the most valuable parts would be the housings, especially the 
> centre PTO housing, as most of the internals (shafts, bearings, seals, 
> etc) can be purchased at bearing or power transmission shops.

	Have any equivalents/numbers?

	Will make a couple changes...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 13:39:31 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
>........get the D() style mirrors.
>      lAter
>      DaveB.

I hate those damn capital numbers, don't you?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 11:49:01 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: My OD experience

To John Tackley, et al: 
My experience with a Fairey OD:
The OD failed at appx 90,000 miles, leaving me stranded. I did not have the 
old parts with me, what's the point of having it if it's likely to break, so 
required a tow home. It did NOT improve my gas mileage, and only helped top 
speed down-hill or on calm or tail-windy days. However, it WAS much quieter 
inside, which was the biggest plus, enabling my wife and I to converse on 
long trips. It DID enable me to go up hills slightly faster by selecting 
3rd-high, but this was only a minor improvement. I used synthetic EP after 
the first two oil changes, which reduced the operating temperature 
considerably, and I recommend it. The failure was of the input "clutch", 
which stripped its little splines without warning while driving down the 
highway. I though I'd broken an axle, but selecting 4wd had no effect. At 
least the parking brake still worked.

I'd used (abused?) it in all gears, which may have contributed to it's early 
failure. I'd never heard that low-gears should be avoided, and did not think 
it was so fragile. The splines don't get much lubrication, and I had not 
removed it periodically to do so. I had not been aware that such was 
necessary. The literature that came with it made no mention of a need. As a 
side note, low-range does not increase the OD stresses, nor does 2wd vs 4wd, 
but 1st and 2nd gears are more stressful than 3rd or 4th, in either range.

As for synchromesh, it is present in both directions and I never had a 
problem shifting up or down at any speed, in any gear. If yours doesn't 
down-shift, there's something wrong with it.

If I had a more powerful engine, then an OD for the highway would be useful, 
but the increase in power might be harder on the OD? OTOH, if I were to do 
it again, I'd get a "high-ratio" transfer case, rather than another OD. The 
prices are close to the same (about $700, I think). I tried 3.54 diffs, but 
lost too much off-road capability. OTOH, fitting an OD is simple and 
straight-forward, and can be swapped back on the spot, given the old parts. 
I wouldn't advise one for serious off-roading though, unless you absolutely 
had to drive 75mph to get there. I'm lucky enough to live in the land of 
55mph, which my diesel handles just fine. In fact, it'll do 60.

The above are my impressions, usual disclaimers apply, yadda yadda, etc. I 
know several folks who have never had any trouble with their OD's, so these 
are only my opinions. If the OD's were cheaper, even a weakness would be 
acceptable to me. I can't afford to replace $700 items every 100,000 miles 
(did I really say that?), especially when they leave me stranded. Everything 
else that has ever broken on my 109 (including the chassis), still enabled 
it to be driven home. I'm trying to keep to that philosophy.

Cheers,
John O
'64 109 5-door, with a gazillion miles on both original parts

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:57:28 -500
Subject: Seeking Tail Lens Number 

I am seeking a parts source for the II/IIA Lucas tail lens.  I thought
the Lucas number was something like L692, but I 0was given the
number LU5457721.  Does someone know if this was superceded?
The lens I seek is round, plastic, and I think about 3" diameter.
Which number should I be seeking.  Thanks.  Mark 

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:08:02 -0500
Subject: half-axle U joints

Hi all,

As some may remember, I was asking about half-axle U joints, since I was
renewing my pitted swivel hubs and replacing seals and bearings as I went.
 As it turns out, the job was transferred to my mechanic (major time
constraints on me at the time) and now I'm glad I did:

I had purchased the U joints from AB (I won't again) which they list with the
same part number as the front prop shaft U joints (286 I believe).  When I
called them to confirm this, they stated that the parts are entirely
interchangeable.  When the parts arrived, they carry the manufacturer's
number of  RTC3291G.  I didn't find this number listed in the official rover
parts catalog but thought they were probably an alternate part.  

Real half-shaft U joints ( RTC 3690) have a rubber plug where the grease
nipple goes and no rubber seal around the cap so that gear oil can lubricate
them.  The AB part comes with a grease nipple and rubber seals along the cap
(as an external U joint should).  Additionally, although the cap-to-cap
distance is the same, the AB caps are slightly smaller diameter than the real
half shaft U joint.  Although my mechanic thought the AB part would probably
work ok, (most of the time people aren't in 4WD so they'd probably last for
years), he suggested using the real part (it just fits better).

Oh yea, if you try to pull out the rubber seal around the caps, all the
needle bearings drop out, trust me.

How did I come to this information?  One of the sliding roller bearings
shattered the inner ring as it was being pressed into the swivel hub so as
long as I had to get a replacement, we (mechanic and I ) decided to get the
real U joints.

Lessons learned:
1. Don't use AB half shaft U joints (wrong part)
2.  Stand clear of the press when putting in roller bearings (they can shoot
out of there like shrapnel)

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 97 14:06:12 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: RR View Mirror Vibes...

     
Bobeck, David R. wrote:
>........get the D() style mirrors.
>      lAter
>      DaveB.
     
     D90...sorry I held the shift button too long!
     
     Thought I'd give you guys who couldn't figure out the 9C50 thing 
     something else to take a whirl at...
     
     DaveB.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:07:54 -500
Subject: OD Cousins?

Regarding the Fairey OD topic of late, is this OD similar to the 
planetary gear Normanville de Laycock 0.802 unit, as used in 
Triumphs, except for the engagement mechanism?  Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 12:06:47 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Manifold studs.

Ashley, etc: I've had extremely good luck using left-hand drill bits. Use 
1/4-inch bit for 5/16 bolts. Soak well with penetrating oil and center-punch 
the busted surface before starting to drill so the bit stays centered. 
Usually it will back out before the bit goes all the way through, 
apparrantly because it relaxes slightly when the middle is taken out. The 
next step is to use an easy-out. I prefer the square kind.

>Anyone got any ideas for removing exhaust manifold studs whilst the manifold is
>in place??

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:22:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Koenig winches...

snip
> 	Too bad you can't make the mechanical a hydraulic very easily

What's your definition of "easily"? The hydraulic version of the old 
ones was identical to the PTO, with the exception that the input shaft 
was about 1" shorter. All you'd need to do is replace the shaft with 
a shorter one (maybe not even that) and mount a motor.

snip
> 	They did get rid of the parts and a couple years back when I talked
> 	with them, they had no record on where the parts went
Sad but true. Apparently the I guy I spoke with no longer works 
there. When I talked with him they still had the L/R they used for 
testing.
 
> > IMHO the most valuable parts would be the housings, especially the 
> > centre PTO housing, as most of the internals (shafts, bearings, seals, 
> > etc) can be purchased at bearing or power transmission shops.
> 	Have any equivalents/numbers?

Sorry, no.
Perhaps if I ever get mine uncrated I can come up with some.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 14:15:47 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: RR View Mirror Vibes...

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> >........get the D() style mirrors.
> >      lAter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>      something else to take a whirl at...
>      DaveB.

I made a comment about those "damned capital numbers" But I guess the
Maj stripped that part off
-- 

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:23:09 -0400
Subject: Re: OD Cousins?

Not in the slightest. The planetary gear jobbie in the Triumphs is built
into a stailshaft on the transmission, if my admittedly-botched memory
serves me, and is electrically controlled.

The LR OD is mounted into the rear Power Take-off hole on the transfer case
and effectively replaces the transmission output gear with a 2-speed
synchromesh transmission. Completely different concept.

The LR jobbie basically takes the car from 2 transmissions to 3.

                    aj"And 4 damned gearsticks!"r

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 13:31:50 +0000
Subject: Re: half-axle U joints

Nate,
A solution to your problem is to use Spicer PN 5-4x (also the NAPA 
number), 2 5/16" cap to cap.
*Don't* pull out the rubber seals (all the u-joints come with them) 
until your've installed them. Once installed, the needle bearings 
will stay in place. Some joints come with a grease fitting. Although 
these typically don't come preinstalled, remove it if you want (I 
would just to be sure it doesn't work it's way out and foul the axle)

ps, These also fit *early* IIa prop shafts, I believe (although I may 
be mistaken on this), and the SII prop shaft.
For later IIa and III prop shafts use Spicer 5-153x, 3 7/32" cap to 
cap

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:30:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: LRNA Collington area, BOWIE! (fwd)

	Cross polination from the RRO list...

=============================================
Interesting post from the off-road.com list.

>Return-Path: offroad-owner@majordomo.pobox.com
>To: Offroad@off-road.com

>        Yes, we had a great surprise at our charter meeting for the 
>Off-Camber Crawlers,Inc. Four Wheel Drive Club.  Bob Burns, the Off-Road 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>responsiveness, and the keeping of the trails.
>We can only hope.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:33:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: LRNA Collington area, BOWIE! (fwd)

	Cross polination from the RRO list...

=============================================
Interesting post from the off-road.com list.

        Yes, we had a great surprise at our charter meeting for the 
Off-Camber Crawlers,Inc. Four Wheel Drive Club.  Bob Burns, the Off-Road 
Director of Land Rover of North America, came to speak and join our club!  
He stated at the meeting that the Collington area, known as Bowie, is 
CLOSED.  PASS THE WORD AROUND.  The County Police will be out to keep 
people off the property. It will be signed as such and will probably need a 
few watchers to keep the sign around.  His intent will be to finally fense 
it all off. This was the only area in the DC Metro area that gave 
off-highway enthusiasts open permission to use the land.  Its closed due to 
the condition its received in the last few years mostly from the directions 
given over the internet.  Bob has asked that those links/directions be 
erased from teh internet.  It will require some work from a bulldozer to 
fill in the holes, labor to remove all debri from the holes and trail, and 
some revamping of the trails.  Some trails will be closed because there was 
no trails there in the past. A lot of the assortment of bypasses will be 
closed so there won't be a choice of ways to go around the holes.  LRNA may 
be opening it once again but that will depend on funding, public 
responsiveness, and the keeping of the trails.

We can only hope.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 19:13:47 +0000
From: Steve_Reddock <steve@lightweight.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Superwinch phone number

It just so happens...

Superwinch Ltd                          Superwinch Inc
Abbey Rise,                             Winch Rd,
Whitchurch Rd,                          Putnam
Tavistock                               Connecticut
Devon                                   06260
PL19 9DR                                USA
England

01822 614101                            (203) 928 7787
01822 615204 (FAX)                      (203) 928 1143 (FAX)

Sorry if this has already been posted, I had to dump a couple of
digests...

All I need now is to find out how superwinch got my new address and why
they sent me a catalogue yesterday!!  Wierd!

Subject: UK: Anybody got a phone # for Superwinch?

I am going to do a bulk buy of these damned bearings for overdrives -
there's got to be a cheaper source than RN...

               ajr

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:46:56 -0500
Subject: Re: OD Cousins?

NO

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 07 Jan 97 13:30:01 MST
Subject: Clutch master cyl losing fluid.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Hello, I have a problem with my '71 IIa 88; the clutch master cylinder
empties itself. It will completely drain to dry even if I fill it and
don't use the vehicle, not even step on the clutch petal. It will go
from full to completely bone dry in a couple of days.

Is it likely the master cylinder? Can it be rebuilt (new seals) or is it
likely to be cracked housing, and needs replaced? I can't see any
noticeable cracks, nor can I see where it's leaking, but it might be
soaking the clutch petal.

Thanks for your input!!!

Dave...

Habit is the best of servants,       #=======#         _____l___
or the worst of masters.             |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
- Nathaniel Emmens                   | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
-                                    "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 15:39:45 -0500
Subject: Re: half-axle U joints

In a message dated 97-01-07 14:31:28 EST, you write:

<< Nate,
 A solution to your problem is to use Spicer PN 5-4x (also the NAPA 
 number), 2 5/16" cap to cap.
 *Don't* pull out the rubber seals (all the u-joints come with them) 
 until your've installed them. Once installed, the needle bearings 
 will stay in place. Some joints come with a grease fitting. Although 
 these typically don't come preinstalled, remove it if you want (I 
 would just to be sure it doesn't work it's way out and foul the axle) >>

Thanks Tom,

It is interesting that although the cap to cap was the same as the AB part,
the cap diameter was different (AB was smaller, read slightly looser fit)
than the real half shaft U joint--maybe just differences in manufacturing
(both were Spicer U joints though).

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:50:09 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Clutch master cyl losing fluid.

> Hello, I have a problem with my '71 IIa 88; the clutch master cylinder
> empties itself. It will completely drain to dry even if I fill it and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> from full to completely bone dry in a couple of days.
> Is it likely the master cylinder?
Typically, if the MS is leaking that much you'll see it running down 
the pedal arm in side the cab. If that's not the case, my guess would 
be the slave cylinder is leaking. If it's a bad leak, you don't need 
to use the clutch for it to leak out. Make sure the clutch bleed 
screw isn't loose.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:58:43 +0000
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: half-axle U joints

> It is interesting that although the cap to cap was the same as the AB part,
> the cap diameter was different (AB was smaller, read slightly looser fit)
> than the real half shaft U joint--maybe just differences in manufacturing
> (both were Spicer U joints though).

Hmmm. Sounds like AB got the wrong or mis-marked u-joints. Every u-joint I've 
bought using the Spicer numbers, including some oddball one's from JC 
Whitney, fit my Land Rovers.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 13:25:47 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch master cyl losing fluid.

debrown@srp.gov wrote:
> snip
> Hello, I have a problem with my '71 IIa 88; the clutch master cylinder
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> soaking the clutch petal.
> Thanks for your input!!!
> Gee. I post on clutch problems and now everyone's having them. :)

If you can't see the leak at the master it's probably not the master and 
more likely the 
slave.  If it's the slave or the hosing (bleed screw??) there should be a
puddle under the vehicle if it has been sitting or signs of leakage down 
the side
of the bellhousing.
I'd think you'd see some leakage from somewhere since on the SIIAs the
whole hydraulic system is external to the bellhousing.
What's the condition of any paint beneath the master cylinder or along 
the bulkhead
where the lines run?

Yes they can be rebuilt.  To my way of thinking that's a bit like 
rebuilding
the brake cylinders though.  I'd not trust myself to do it properly and
would prefer to swap in a new unit, but then I've more money than skill.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "Byns Mats Larsson" <mt26079@tellus.swipnet.se>
Subject: Radio console for Defender 110 -85
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 22:43:01 +0100

Let=B4s see how this works.

This is the first time for me writing to this list.
How can I find a radio console for a 110 Def ?
 With space enough for an ordinary radio with CD.
The one I have isn=B4t deep enough,
I think it=B4s intended for a little tiny Clarion radio that I can=B4t bu=
y here
in Sweden.

Thanks in advance
Mats Larsson
Dalecarlia
SWEDEN
mt26079@tellus.swipnet.se

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 17:47:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch master cyl losing fluid.

One small note on the hydraulics in series Rovers. ALWAYS use DOT 4 ,
preferably Girling,  brake fluid. DOT 3 fluid will DISSOLVE British brake and
clutch seals. I find that if you use Girling fluid the leak gradually grows
worse over time and if DOT 3 is used It goes from small leak to complete
failure in a couple of days. IF DOT 3 fluid was used then you will have to
rebuild both master and  slave cylinders. BTW rebuilding the clutch cylinders
is easy, the hard part is getting access. LHD only. :-)
Rgds Quintin Aspin
With a bunch of RHD Rovers. :-)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 16:22:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch master cyl losing fluid.

Master losing fluid:

If your foot's not getting wet, I'd have a look at the condition of the
rubber line at the slave and the slave itself.

When in the non-depressed condition, the master is open to the reservoir,
which means byt definition the slave is too.

You'll probably find bad slave seals, is my guess.

               ajr

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 09:22:00 EST

Dave,

I was referring to OLD Land Cruisers.  My son rebuilt the front of a friends 
78 40 series in my garage a couple of months ago.   I had to help them.   I 
remembered they used ALL my Castrol LMM grease when I went to repair my Warn 
winch last week.

Not sure about more modern Cruisers, they may use a Cardan joint or similar

Ron

>I think I'll check the swivel housings when ever I do crossings in future.

 >I might even carry enough oil in a squeeze bottle to enable a change on
the
>trail.  At least old Land Cruisers use grease.
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

     They do? Or is it just another SPOT? The ones Ive seen have a joint
     vcalled a birfield or something that looks alot like the CV's on my
     Honda...inside a swivel just like on the LR's... with a fill plug, I
     didn't look to see if there was a drain...I imagine water could still
     get in, eh?

     DaveB.

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 09:37:00 EST

Bob Watson wrote on Mon, 6 Jan 1997 07:35:48 -0800

>Do the swivel balls have vents? I didn't see any when I was under my
>Disco changing the fluid in them.
>When I had water in the swivel-ball oil, the dealer changed the
>seal/bearing (I can't remember now) on that side, which is about the
>only way for water to get in, as near as I could tell.

Neither of my Rangies have vents however I will be fitting them.  I'll use 
the
idea suggested by Steve Winteron of fitting them into the filler plugs.

Re swivel ball seals, I notice that 4 Wheel Drives in Melbourne (Australia)
 have a slpit seal that allows replacement without dismantling the front 
end.
I think these are for Series vehicles and don't know if they fit Discos and 
Rangies etc.

Anda, can you comment?

Ron Beckett
+61 2 9339-6921 work
+61 47 35-6883 home
Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'83 Range Rover 3.5L manual (for sale)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see 
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html
'67 Hillman Gazelle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 10:08 +1030
From: "Perry, Anthony" <anthony.perry@dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: The Land Rover Family...? -Reply

The waving thing:

Over the Christmas break I took the Disco over to Kangaroo Island. For those 
people who do not live in the state of South Australia and feel like getting 
out an atlas, it is an island about 100-150 km long off the southern central 
Australian coast (ie not Tasmania - that's bigger). My girlfriend and I 
spent a week fishing for King George Whiting and Rock Lobsters (crayfish) 
plus a little sight seeing on bitumen, dirt roads and rough tracks.

While driving around Adelaide (home) I do not usually wave at other 
Discoveries unless they are the same colour - there are far too many. They 
are all sold by the one dealer we have here. Anyway, in the country, I tend 
to wave at every Discovery I see and my wave back results range from 30% in 
the hills near the city, to 75% on Kangaroo Is. Kangaroo Is. is a friendly 
place and almost everyone waves at everyone else so that might effect things 
a bit.

Many years ago when I was a lad, every 4WD waved at every other regardless 
of make and model - that was the mid '70s. Times have changed but it is fun 
to get a wave from other like-minded people.

Thanks for the thoughts on LPG conversions

bye

Ant Perry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 19:50:11 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: LRW

Just got February's LRW magazine.  The Mid-Atlantic Rally got a cover clip 
and a nice four page spread inside.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 16:50:20 -0800
From: Patrick Kullenberg <KULLENBERG@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: Disco Rental in States

Enterprise Rental Crs rents them on the west coast, but they are  a bit 
dear ($80+, per day).
Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 17:19:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: My OD experience

I have a question about the OD. In the following text you mention 
lubricating the splines. Are these the Output shaft splines from the 
transmission in the transfer case?
Also mine like yours gives no problem shifting up or down.
Tom Spoto 

On Mon, 6 Jan 1997, John Ousterhout wrote:

> To John Tackley, et al: 
> considerably, and I recommend it. The failure was of the input "clutch", 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> highway. I though I'd broken an axle, but selecting 4wd had no effect. At 
> least the parking brake still worked.

> I'd used (abused?) it in all gears, which may have contributed to it's early 
> failure. I'd never heard that low-gears should be avoided, and did not think 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Cheers,
> John O
> '64 109 5-door, with a gazillion miles on both original parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 12:54:37 +1100
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Disco hire in UK

>What is 9C50 ?  Inquiring minds want to know.

'=9C' is MIME "quoted-printable" for the British "Pound sterling" symbol
(the crossed 'L').  Hence "=9C50" is "fifty Pounds sterling".

Now you know.

	paul

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Three fuel tanks, View Camera
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 01:47:58 +0000

Teriann; I am interested in the valve that you have for your three fuel
tanks. I am putting these tanks on my 109 sw and need a four way valve,
three in, one out to the fuel pump. I have already worked the fuel gauge
out,so that I can use only one for all three tanks.I must say that the fuel
gauge was actually worked out by my friend who is an electronics engineer.
If you could I would like the brand etc. for the valve.
On the subject of carbs. I have a very old Rochester, actually I have
several, they were originally on early 50's Chevrolets with the six cylinder
engine. I usually pick them up at yard sales, flea markets etc. for around
$5.00. Take them to a carb. shop that does a lot of old car work and have
them rebuilt. The last one was in 1995 and the cost was $98.00 and that
included making a new pump. These old carbs have never let me down yet. 
Now, about your View Camera. What kind is it? What size neg. does it have?
Do you ever use Polaroid backs? I like view cameras, but don't get to use
them as much anymore. I am trying to get the bean counters at work to spring
for a digital back for ours. We could plug it right into the computer and
really have some fun. 

I hope everyone had a very nice holiday no matter which one(s) that you observe.

Keep On (Land-Rover) Truckin'
Jim Wolf 1966 sIIa 109 sw Vicky
Portsmouth, VA USA

------------------------------

From: Wmohara@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 10:05:11 +0700
From: Tony Yates <a.yates@bom.gov.au>
Subject: Bush Tucker Man

Hi Everyone,

Check out the Bush Tucker Man home page:

http://www.ee.ualberta.ca/~dawe/bush_tucker.html  (Canada)

http://www.ozemail.com.au/~canine/bushtucker/index.html  (Australia)

for some good (though not great quality) pics of Les Hiddins and his
ex-Australian army D110.

Cheers.

*********************************************************************

Tony Yates                              email: a.yates@bom.gov.au
Senior Forecaster                       Ph:    (672) 10632
Davis Meteorological Office             Fax:   (672) 10658
Australian Antarctic Territory

"Having failed to demolish us by dogged persistence, the gale tried
new tactics on the evening of May 24th, in the form of a series of
Herculean gusts."   -  Sir Douglas Mawson (1915)

*Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast* - Ace Rimmer

**********************************************************************

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 06 Jan 97 21:24:20 +0000
Subject: newbie on the list...

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) 
Hi there All, 
 
I'm new on the list so I thought I'd say hello! 
 
I don't have a Landie at the moment, but should be purchasing a 1981 ser 
III 88 s/w diesel in the next month from a colleague. It's had a new 
galvanised chassis and is a 5 bearing. It runs well, very impressive. 
I've wanted a Landie for years, so really looking forward to it. My mate 
is currently driving a L/Weight. 
 
Any thoughts on buying a ser III????? 
 
What about water leaks coming into the cab? Any thoughts on how to cure 
it? Better door seals??? 
 
Catch you later, 
Lenny... 

Lenny Warren, Scotland.
coming soon, a S3 88 sw.

--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 00:29:48 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Spare tyre locations

At 00:15 97-01-08 -0500, you wrote:

snip

>109" other than SW (standard): upright in bed at front of right side. Tyre
>rests in depression let into wheel house. (Not feasible on 88" due to
>interferance with tyre travel (guess)) Brace mounted to side of vehicle.

Small correction. On RHD vehicles, it's on the right and for LHD vehicles,
it's on the left. That way, the spare ty(i)re isn't blocking the view...

I've seen some with two spares, one on each side, which definetelay wasn't
factory fitted.

Salutations, 

Michel
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Kwc22@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 08:37:56 +0200
From: Frank Bokhorst <bokkie@uctvms.uct.ac.za>
Subject: Capstan winch drive attachment?

After a long wait I managed to persuade a friend to sell me an old
capstan winch he had lying around, to fit my 1957 SI, but there is a 
problem - the drive mechanism is incomplete, and I have to make up 
the missing parts.  What I have is a short shaft that fits with a 
spline into the winch, and another short shaft on two bearing mounted 
on a bracket that seems intended to bolt to the front of the engine.
This shaft has flanges on both ends, each with four screws, as
illustrated below.  Presumably one end must attach to the front
pulley on the engine and the other end goes to the winch, with
some kind of dog-clutch to disengage the winch from the engine:

TOP VIEW                 Engine Side
                      Attachment Screws 
                         ==      ==
                        _||______||_
                        |  Flange  |       Mounting plate with
      __  ____          ------------         ____  ___ screw holes
             |              |  |Shaft        |   
             |       |----------------|      |
             |\      | Bearing        |     /|
             | \     | housing        |    / |
             |__\____|________________|___/__|      
                            |  |
                       _____|__|_____
                       | Flange     |
                       --------------
                        ||        ||
                        ==        == 
                     Attachment Screws
                         Winch side

My questions:  
      * To what part of the engine does the mounting plate shown
        above attach?  It looks like the best place would be to
        the engine mounts which are close to the front pulley,
        or does it attach the other way round, ie. to the chassis?
      * How does the drive best attach to the front pulley?  Seems
        to require removal of the pulley nut, but then what holds
        the pulley onto the crankshaft?  Or does the nut serve as
        part of the disengagement clutch (i.e. same way as the crank
        handle engages into this nut).
      * What arrangement is best for the other end, i.e. to disengage
        the drive?

I am OK for the usual welding and lathe turning stuff, but any
suggestions to help with the design will be greatly appreciated.  

Frank Bokhorst       
personal e-mail: bokkie@psipsy.uct.ac.za
University of Cape Town

------------------------------

From: Wmohara@aol.com

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Radio console for Defender 110 -85
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 11:18:38 +-100

Byns Mats Larsson[SMTP:mt26079@tellus.swipnet.se] wrote:

How can I find a radio console for a 110 Def ?
 With space enough for an ordinary radio with CD.
The one I have isn't deep enough,
I think it's intended for a little tiny Clarion radio that I 
can't buy here in Sweden.

In Biltema ( shop in Sweden ), You can buy different 
plastic frames, then cut a larger whole and mount it.
Or make Your own box out of 0,5 mm sheet steel/aluminium.
For some quite different idea, have a look at:

URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/radiouk.html

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

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end

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Spare tyre locations
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 11:39:56 +-100

Wdcockey@aol.com[SMTP:Wdcockey@aol.com] wrote:
All (optional): bonnet. Bracket is rivited to bonnet. Nominally only offered
with deluxe bonnet with depression, but frequently added to deluxe bonnet
without depression and regular bonnet.

Cheaper way is to make a Lightwight lookalike.

Picture at the last part of URL:

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/highlift.html

Happy Rovering

Bent

_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

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end

------------------------------

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