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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 "John P. Casteel" [jcast18unsubscribe
2 "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo17[not specified]
3 "Daniel Palmer" [2Palmer20"CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT
4 Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb31Re: Manuals and Books!
5 "LT J Jackson" [lt_j_jac49Oh No - Water in my motor o
6 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR24Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o
7 Solihull@aol.com 31Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT
8 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi19SIIa Radiator hose
9 lopezba@atnet.at 63Re: Overdrive
10 lopezba@atnet.at 31Series One, Mercedes and MG A
11 MRogers315@aol.com 15Subject: Swap meets in England this Spring ?
12 jimallen@onlinecol.com (29Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT
13 "Oscar Beasley" [beasley32High-speed transfer vs. overdrive
14 Ashley Charlwood [10132015Clutch release spring??
15 amanda@zeta.org.au (Aman30Re:Diesel Engine Conversion.
16 rover@pinn.net (Alexande21Carbs
17 Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb21Re: Clutch release spring??
18 Wdcockey@aol.com 45Overdrive (answers????)
19 Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb20Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o
20 Adrian Redmond [channel630Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o
21 "Daniel Palmer" [2Palmer11Rear Seats
22 cbemail@mindspring.com (24Re: LR 88 4 Sale in East TN
23 "Richard P. Biby" [rich@36Shipping Series Rovers to the US
24 cascardo@ix.netcom.com (51Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT
25 john hess [jfhess@wheel.33barbara toy and Ireland, Disco accident again
26 Richard Clarke [clarker@20Re: choice of locking diffs
27 "Perry, Anthony" [anthon54LPG conversions on 3.9L Discoveries
28 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.19BSROA/RN Winter course
29 Chris Dow [dow@thelen.or45Re: Rear Seats
30 "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett27Water Crossings and Oil don't mix
31 "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett45Warn Winch Maintenance
32 Floris Houniet [Houniet@17Re: Lockers / No Lockers


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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 11:10:53 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

Well folks,  business has been keeping me away from the computer 
recently and my mailbox is overflowing!!  I am unsubscribing until 
things quiet down and I can begin reading your messages again.  

When I return, I hope to have the database, of series vehicles, in a 
searchable format and on it's own page.  Best wishes to all and I will 
see you soon.

John Casteel

Send entries to the database to jcasteel@mindspring.com   -Thanks

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Subject: Manuals and Books!
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 97 10:23:38 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

Hello All-

My long search is over!  I've just made a deal on a 1966 IIa 88" and will 
be driving to pick it up this weekend!  I was wanting advice on the best 
workshop/parts/resotoration manuals for this vehicle.  I am no real 
mechanic, but can figure just about anything out from a good manual and 
illustration.  I want a good and complete guide for body work and 
interior work as well as engine work.  Any ideas?  Sources for these 
books?

Thanks-

Keith W. Cooper

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Date: Sat, 4 Jan 97 15:09:47 UT
From: "Daniel Palmer" <2Palmers@msn.com>
Subject: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

Hello folks,
Yesterday I ran out of gas in my 1994 D90 while travelling down the highway (I 
should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it chugged along a 
short way and I then pulled over and stopped.  I walked to the gas station, 
got a can and some gas and returned.  I filled the tank, started the engine, 
and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on.  Nothing seems to be wrong with 
the vehicle.  It seems to be running fine.  But that blasted light remains on.

Is this light one that can be "reset".  Is it triggered and then stays on 
until you take it in and the dealer "resets" it.  Or, is it one that stays on 
as long as it senses a problem with the engine?

If there is a way to reset it, please let me know.  I appreciate your help.
DJP
2palmers@msn.com

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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 09:48:26 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Manuals and Books!

Keith W. Cooper wrote:
> snip
>  I was wanting advice on the best
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> interior work as well as engine work.  Any ideas?  Sources for these
> books?

Oh boy are you going to have fun :)

The best books are, IMHO, the LR shop manual for procedures and the LR
parts catalog for figuring out what goes where (diagrams are generally
very good).  The Haynes manual is also very good for mechanical work
guidance that is sometimes more detailed than the LR manual.  Porter's
guide to Series Restoration seems to me to be more biased towards body
work, so you might want that too.  (I use all 4).  

And, of course, like most of us, you can avoid reading the books/manuals
and just post here :)

There are assorted locations for the books including RN and BP  (+AB?)
also the LROI bookshop carries just about anything.  I've used predominantly
LROI and BP.  

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: 5 Jan 1997 13:06:11 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Oh No - Water in my motor o

Ladies and Gentlemen: 

  This is my first posting to the list, precipitated by a (possible) crisis. 
My 88" SIII (2.25l gas) had a bit of water in the motor oil :-(, and I'm not
certain about the cause.    At first I thought it was a blown head gasket or a
crack in the block, but after a quick panic, several beers, and an afternoon
coated in oil, I'm not so sure.   Here's why:

    1.  There was no anti-freeze in the water on the dipstick.

    2.  After pushing the monster up a 3 pct. grade into the garage with my
wife's H*nda wagon (first making sure that she was occupied on the other side
of the house) and changing the oil and filter (no apparent water in the drain
oil), I ran the car until it warmed up and found no water on the dipstick. 
Then I changed the oil again (plenty of frame oil on hand for next year!).  
Ran it for a while, still no water.  At this point I'm very happy with myself
for not having express-ordered the head gasket from RN, and, aided by the
consumption of further beers, I began to convince myself that there had never
been water in the oil in the first place. 

    The next morning I start the car, let it run one or two minutes then shut
it off to check for water.  Yep, a small amount of water on the dipstick
again.  

   In desperation, I concocted a theory which seems to have proven correct. 
Remembering the threads on the list about radiator mufflers, I decided that my
Rover had not been running hot enough to cook off the normal condensate which
forms inside the block (the weather has been between 15F and 50F over the last
week, and the temp gauge has barely climbed out of the cold range).   So I
made a crude, but efficient, air dam out of old license plates and went for a
drive.  The engine warmed nicely to the upper-normal quadrant of the temp.
gauge, which was much warmer than it had been running previously. I checked
the oil - no apparent water. 

My question, finally, is this:  Has anyone else ever experienced this
situation?  Maybe I'm overreacting, in typical newbie fashion,  to a
Series-motor norm, but I'd just like to be certain.

Thanks for your time.  Sorry for the bandwidth.   

Jeff Jackson
'73 88" Series III HT 
Waterford, CT, USA
    

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 13:24:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o

On 5 Jan 1997, LT J Jackson wrote:

> My question, finally, is this:  Has anyone else ever experienced this
> situation?  Maybe I'm overreacting, in typical newbie fashion,  to a
> Series-motor norm, but I'd just like to be certain.

	At risk of lots of "I knew it!" I must comment that I am amazed
	that you found this in the first place.  One, becuase I would never
	have dreamed of checking, but second, if found, I would have ignored
	it anyway.  Suffice it to say, the Dixon brand of LR maintenance is
	not for everyone, though I know of people on the list who are 
	adherents to the principles.  Overreact?  Naw...  Overreacting is 
	Spencer	diagnosing a loose shock bolt as a gearbox going south... 
	:-)  

	Rgds,

	(I don't need to check the il.  I have the consumption rate down
	by heart and top up appropriately... :-))

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 15:09:56 -0500
Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

Disclaimer: I have no direct experience with D90 engine management. This is
based on general stuff learned on both sides of a parts counter, over twenty+
years.
  
Now that's out of the way, Here is something to try before you have to spend
any money. 
  Some modern FI systems 'learn' as they go, and a major malfunction or
change, like even a broken speedo cable, (happened to my mom in her Chevy
S-10) can cause erratic operation or the appearance of a warning light.
Perhaps the out of fuel episode caused the vehicle to learn that CO or NOx
levels were out of parameters, so the 'puter tells you to "CHECK ENGINE". 
  Disconnecting the battery for a minute will cause the system to dump its
memory and go back to the baseline settings, and *may turn the light off.
Expect the engine to behave differently for several miles, while it relearns
your style and its environment.

Let us know what happens!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 
  

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 14:27:00 -6
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Subject: SIIa Radiator hose

A addtion to peoples' aftermarket parts lists.
The upper radiator hose on the IIa & III 2.25l can be replaced with a 
Dayco 70687, a molded hose with an inner stiffener coil. It's too 
long, but can be easily cut to length. They can usually be found on 
special for about $2.00 US.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 21:47:40 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Overdrive

Adrian Redmond wanted to know:

>What is the principle of overdrive, and how does it work, what are the
>pros and cons?

Basically it is an extra gearbox with only two gears (normal and high). 
Normal just gives you what your gearbox gives you, and high increases by 
about 28 % (I think) which means - see below. 

Pros: See below.
Cons: Something else to break down; comparatively expensive (about 500 UKP); 
not terribly well engineered, needs a lot more care than most other LR 
components - but then you are really taking care of your LR's, if I remember 
correctly.

>Can it be retrofitted to a series III diesel? How? Is it a LR original
>upgrade (!) or an aftermarket afterthought?

Yes, it can be retrofitted by taking the place of the rear bearing housing 
of the transfer box and cutting a small hole in the transmission tunnel for 
the additional gearstick. It is made by Fairey in the UK, but approved by LR 
and LR sell it as a LR part. Its a DIY job for somebody fairly handy, 
although you need a special LR tool (which can be home-made) to remove the 
transfer box mainshaft nut.

>Will it improve (decrease) rpm and engine/transmission noise on motorway
>driving, save on fuel, and does it save wear on transmission/motor?

Since it increases gearing, it will either save fuel and reduce noise at 
your usual highway speed or allow higher speed (not 28 % though - the Diesel 
has little power at the high end).

>How is it selected/deselected - I seem to remember reading about
>electrical selection, but I read something here the other day about an
>extra "gear-stick" ? Are there various options available? Does anyone
>have any good/bad recommendations.

You get a fourth gearstick to really confuse everybody. In principle, with 
an overdrive you have 16 forward and four reverse gears to select from, or 
get screwed up by. However, since the overdrive is not terribly strong it is 
not advisable to use it with anything lower than third or fourth high. The 
electric overdrive you mention was available for Jaguars, Rovers and various 
other British cars, but not for the LR AFAIK. 

I am not aware of any options except a transfer box modification by Ian 
Ashcroft in the UK which also gives you higher gearing (15 or 30 %, 
depending on what you get) in high, but does not allow you to go back to the 
"normal" gearing if you know what I mean. The there's higher ratio 
differentials, but that of course also affects your low gear. 

The general consensus seems to be to stay away from used O/D's unless you 
know it is only six months old and is being sold because the vehicle was 
totalled - 

Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 21:47:54 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Series One, Mercedes and MG A

Dear all, just a short note:

Finally got the rear body of my SI off the chassis today. Delays were due to 
a bad cold, very low temperatures and some extremely stubborn bolts. But now 
it's done and we can turn to the easy things, like the rear springs and 
bushings ;>).

I ought to say that may wife, although American, hates driving. Lately, 
however, she said she wouldn't mind having a car after all. Since this is 
not going to be used a lot I wanted to combine it with ownership of an old 
car. Just before Christmas I found two likely candidates: A 1968 Mercedes 
250 SL Automatic, pagoda roof and all, in very good shape, for about 23,000 
USD, and a 1957 MG A, a little worse for wear but a good runner apparently, 
for about half that. So we went and we looked and we thought it over and we 
went once more. Last Saturday we went for the last time, I wanted to have a 
decision by tomorrow /a holiday in Austria). So last night my wife decided 
she wanted neither the one nor the other, since these cars were not really 
our style (I have to agree). She would rather have a Series One of her own, 
she said.

Thought I would let you know just in case you ever needed an example.

Take care
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 15:55:09 -0500
Subject: Subject: Swap meets in England this Spring ?

The biggest Land-Rover meet in the UK is the ARC International Rally, being
held 24 to 26th May at Llangollen North Wales. 

Incidently if any other subscribers are going to be there ( and I certainly
shall ) perhaps we could arange to meet over a beer one night and  put faces
to the names on the list.

Mik Rogers.
( Lightweight / Range Rover Hybrid ) Coming up for its 5th ARC National. 

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 14:08:15 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

>should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it chugged along a
>short way and I then pulled over and stopped.  I walked to the gas station,
>got a can and some gas and returned.  I filled the tank, started the engine,
>and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on.

DJP,

        Running out of fuel can cause the light to come on. The system is
not smart enough to discern an actual EFI fault from running out of fuel.
        You have two choices, 1) disconnect the battery for a few seconds
to erase the memory. The adaptive memory will quickly relearn and you will
aslo have to re-enter your radio codes, or 2) you can unplug the ECU under
the passenger seat with the same result, except you won't have the radio
code to enter.
        Some caveats to this for others looking for an easy way to get rid
of a light. Don't do it with OBD-2 systems ('96 up Disco, Range Rover) and
'97 D90. Also, if it came on for no apparent reason (some examples of
lights coming on with no real trouble would include running out of fuel,
high altitude operation when the car is adjusted for se level, etc.),
caution would dictate a trip to the dealer. Real problems are usually
accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel lazy
or cheap.

JIm Allen

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From: "Oscar Beasley" <beasleyo@milo.cfw.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 16:24:00 +0000
Subject: High-speed transfer vs. overdrive

Looking for any information (actual experience preferably) from the
LIST concerning the use of a high-speed transfer case as opposed to
using an overdrive.

I understand that the highspeed x-fer provides the equivalent of the
high side of the overdrive, but without the necessity of shifting. 
Also have been led to believe that this significantly cuts down on
NOISE (screaming/whinning)usually heard from the O/D.  Low-range is
supposedly unaffected.

These units are advertised in LROI, but I have never seen a technical 
evaluation or discussion of them anywhere.  It seems, from an 
admittedly flawed memory, that there was a firm in Australia that did 
some sort of work with this type of set-up, also.

I have been the overdrive route, having had one screamer from new, 
and one getting that way after 10K or so miles.  This was after using 
synthetics from new with Slick-50 transmission stuff and then Amsoil. 
My experience with rebuilding the old O/D was that it really didn't 
make any difference.  The mating surfaces of the main gears were 
already at fault for noise, and new bearings, etc. couldn't re-align 
things once the wear patterns were established.

Any thoughts, help, etc. is appreciated-

Oscar Beasley

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Date: 05 Jan 97 16:52:17 EST
From: Ashley Charlwood <101320.2736@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Clutch release spring??

Having munched 1st Gear on my Land Rover, taken the 'box out refitted 1st and
put it back in I can't get the clutch to work properly, the slave cylinder is
not pressing on the pin in gearbox housing.

Somebody has mentioned that it could be the clutch release spring/bearing.

Before I take the box out again has anyone got any other ideas as to what it is?

Ashley
SIII lightweight V8

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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 09:12:23 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re:Diesel Engine Conversion.

G'day Paul: 

>>From the subject line, I assume that you have a diesel in yours.  If this
>is the case, could you tell me what sort it is, and how it performs?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>The 202 is quite a good lump, but uses lots of petrol and doesn't have the
>charisma of a diesel.

The Is*zu engine transplant has been an excellent choice I must admit. It
was a very time consuming conversion but the end result was a LR that was
comfortable at highway speeds (100 km/hr), didn't need a fuel truck to
follow it and is excellent off-road. A friend who previously owned a Series
III with a Holden 202 and 5-speed gearbox has said that his was no quieter
than the Is*zu when on the road.

You can however recondition a 202 for a lot less cash than another engine
will set you back.

Then again, someone buying a Land Rover may not be known to normally make
sound and/or rational financial decisions.

Regards  
Phil Carkagis
S III 109 5-door
101 FC

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:18:22 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Carbs

WRT Jims Allen's CFD on carbs, I've only run three on my 88, and each lasted 
for about 70,000 miles.  The original Zenith 36 IV*E* died 'cause I didn't 
know about the glass plate grinding thing at the time.  Next was a Holley 
2494 adapted to fit.  Ran *great*.  Even got a documented 27+ mpg on one 
trip.  Forgot to drain the carb when the vehicle was taken off the road.  I 
turned to a lump of varnish.  The present carb is the Zenith (now Solex) 
36IV and I've glass-plated it once and it needs it again.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 16:34:49 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch release spring??

Ashley Charlwood wrote:
snip
> I can't get the clutch to work properly, the slave cylinder is
> not pressing on the pin in gearbox housing.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Before I take the box out again has anyone got any other ideas as to what it is?
> Do you mean there's no motion/pressure from the slave cylinder or subsequent
mechanical linkages?  If that's the case then the problem is in the hydraulics.
Try bleeding the system first then isolate the master/slave by clamping to
determine any failure location.  

When you say "properly" I assume that means not at all, or does it move somewhat?

cheers,

Jeremy

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:37:12 -0500
Subject: Overdrive (answers????)

Adrian inquires about overdrives:
> What is the principle of overdrive, and how does it work, what are the
>  pros and cons?
The LR overdrive is an additional gearbox with two ratios (1:1 and 0.782:1)
which lowers engine speed by 22% when the overdrive ratio is engaged. It
bolts to the transfer case at the rear PTO openning, and replaces the main
shaft gear which transfers power from the gearbox to the transfer case.

>  Can it be retrofitted to a series III diesel? How? Is it a LR original
>  upgrade (!) or an aftermarket afterthought?
It is a LR approved accessory introduced in 1974, manufactured by Fairey, now
part of Superwinch. Overdrives are still manufactured. It fits all Series LRs
other than Stage I. There was also a version for early RRs. An alternative
which some feel is stronger used to be available, and is refered to as a
"Toro" or "Santana" overdrive. 
  
>  Will it improve (decrease) rpm and engine/transmission noise on motorway
>  driving, save on fuel, and does it save wear on transmission/motor?
It decreases engine speed when engaged, and thus will reduce noise and
possibly wear. Fuel savings are dependent on a number of factors including
route driven, driving style, and engine/vehicle combination. Note that
decreasing engine speed reduces maximum power available so if you are using
wide open throttle frequently an overdrive will not be much use.

>  How is it selcected/deselected - I seem to remember reading about
>  electrical selection, but I read something here the other day about an
>  extra "gear-stick" ? Are there various options available? Does anyone
>  have any good/bad recommendations.
The Fairey unit is a straight mechanical shift with syncromesh. Shifting
involves depressing the clutch and moving the lever. OD can be used with
other than 4th to obtain split ratios. I believe the "Toro" unit used a
vacumn actuatior to shift.

The Fairey OD uses bevel gears with a layshaft. This is a fundamentally
different design from the planetary gear "Laycock" od which was optional on
many British cars in the past, and which had electric accuated shifting.

Regards,
David Cockey 

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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 16:42:10 -0800
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o

LT J Jackson wrote:
>I decided that my
> Rover had not been running hot enough to cook off the normal condensate 

That sound right to me.  If you had water collecting in the pan it would mostly be
at the bottom of pan (heavier than most oil).  Furthermore you'd probably see
some milky discoloration of the oil as it was blended with water.  I don't
think you've got anything to worry about.  This sounds a lot like a motorcycle
I own that has an oil inspection window.  Naturally water condenses on the cold,
exposed window and the oil there takes on a milky appearance from simple 
condensate.  Scared me the first time I saw it :)

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 00:57:38 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o

Sounds OK to me, I have had a blown gasket nd I know that it looks very
different - the major sign being emulsifies (milky) oil/water mixture
visible in the rocker case, by removing the air cap.

This sounds like normal condensation to me.

[If it gets too bad, you could always replace water/antifreeze with oil,
then it wouldn't matter anyway? Why has noone ever done this? Maybe they
have?] :))))))(
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 97 01:02:08 UT
From: "Daniel Palmer" <2Palmers@msn.com>
Subject: Rear Seats

I have a 1994 D90 with the standard "bench" rear seat.  I am contemplating 
getting four of the side-mounted rear seats but am concerned about the 
installation (not only of the seat but the seat-belts).  Has anyone installed 
these.  What were your experiences?
DJP
2palmers@msn.com

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 20:53:23 -0500
From: cbemail@mindspring.com (Chris Buckley)
Subject: Re: LR 88 4 Sale in East TN

Scott:

Got your email post: sorry, I deleted your other email and so lost your
telephone.  Email me back with number so I can thank you in person for the
detailed account of your inspection.

I think the rig you saw is in much worse shape than the series II I was
telling you about here in CT, or at least needs 3 times the work.  I don't
know what to think about the price they are asking.  I am certainly not
interested in it at their asking price, but might consider it for less,
though I doubt it.

Let me know what happens to it, if you plan on following its sale through
to close: otherwise, and once again, my sincerest thanks for checking it
out for me.

Best,

CIB

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From: "Richard P. Biby" <rich@comm-data.com>
Subject: Shipping Series Rovers to the US
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 20:54:14 -0500 (EST)

Hello all you Rover Experts.

I've been reading the digest for about a year now.
Never had anything to say before, so this is my first post.
I had a SI, SII and a SIII. Now I have the land-yacht 
Disco (95 -- back when you had to order one a wait!).

I purchased the SII through someone I knew in England
and had the thing shipped over. The car was in excellent
condition, by US standards :-), having just passed the
MOT. The car was about $2,000, shipping was $750, and
an importer fee was about $250. I picked up a great
rover for about $3k. I drove it home to Northern VA
from the port in Baltimore.

Question is this: The number of "quality" series rovers
in the US is very limited and thus expensive. Is there
something I don't understand or know about importing
series rovers? I know anything before 1965 will not
require emissions or USDOT standards tests.

Is there a chance of owning one of those bright, shiny
yellow light weights in the back of this months LRO?

Thanks for proving me wrong or showing me how to do it,
Rich

-- 
Richard P. Biby, P.E.   KD4DSX   703/558.0505  Fax 703/558.0523
-->   Root Emergency Procedure: type "rm -rf / <cr>"    <--

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 17:59:20 -0800
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

You wrote: 
>>should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it 

chugged along a
>>short way and I then pulled over and stopped.  I walked to the gas 
station,
>>got a can and some gas and returned.  I filled the tank, started the 
engine,
>>and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on.
>DJP,
>        Running out of fuel can cause the light to come on. The system 

is
>not smart enough to discern an actual EFI fault from running out of 
fuel.
>        You have two choices, 1) disconnect the battery for a few 
seconds
>to erase the memory. The adaptive memory will quickly relearn and you 
will
>aslo have to re-enter your radio codes, or 2) you can unplug the ECU 
under
>the passenger seat with the same result, except you won't have the 
radio
>code to enter.
>        Some caveats to this for others looking for an easy way to get 
rid
>of a light. Don't do it with OBD-2 systems ('96 up Disco, Range Rover) 
and
>'97 D90. Also, if it came on for no apparent reason (some examples of
>lights coming on with no real trouble would include running out of 
fuel,
>high altitude operation when the car is adjusted for se level, etc.),
>caution would dictate a trip to the dealer. Real problems are usually
>accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel 
lazy
>or cheap.
>JIm Allen
>accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel 

Mine came on when the wiper blade fuse blew.  Same fuse as the tach.  I 
replaced the fuse but the check engine light still remained.  The 
dealer reset it.  He said he has seen the same problem about seven 
times this winter.  I'll have to be more aware of ice build up.

Lucas C.
d90 sw

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Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:03:09 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: barbara toy and Ireland, Disco accident again

Hi all,

I have been corresponding with Barabara Toy for about a year.  Recently,
she offered me a couple extra books.  I just received The Highway of the
Three Kings and Rendevous in Cyprus.  The rally cool part of this is that
in each, she was adventuring in a 109 with a Dormobile top.

This vehicle, a 109 regular, was used in several of her adventures and I
ahve asked her about it.  Unfortunately, she can't remember much about it.
I also asked John Riley (Land Rover UK) and he can't find out anything
about it from just the registration plate (5751 WD).

Can anyone help me with find this vehicle or find out more about it or any
suggestions at all?

Second,  I am planning a vacation to Irleand in May.  Any LROs in Ireland
that would like to talk land rovers and have apint of Guiness (or
Murphy's)?  Email me, please.

Third (re-request),  would the person who posted the rolling of the disco,
please email me?

thanks, cheers,

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
                                  1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

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Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 13:48:15 +1000
From: Richard Clarke <clarker@goldy.agvic.gov.au>
Subject: Re: choice of locking diffs

one of the key factors I used in choosing my diff locks was the use 
of existing axles
The most popular (US) diff lock uses the same /standard axles so I 
only used it on the back where I have a Salsbury anyway
On the front I used a MaxiDrive as they replaced the standard 10 
spline axles (and diff side bits) with salsbury size/type
I had already broken a front axle on my Australian Isuzu 3.9D Phase 1 
so was looking for something stronger

All of your locks seem to be much cheaper than in Aus
Richard Clarke
Manager HR Risk Management
Department of Natural Resources & Environment
Victoria 
Australia

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Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 13:28 +1030
From: "Perry, Anthony" <anthony.perry@dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: LPG conversions on 3.9L Discoveries

Hello everyone,

Hope you are enjoying/have enjoyed the Christmas break. I bought a 95 
Landrover discovery a couple of months ago. How has it gone so far?

1    Dashboard replaced under original new car warranty
2    rear power window lockout button replaced under warranty
3    front passenger door lock inoperative from inside - adjusted
4    Cruise control button replaced under warranty

all of these things were done at no cost. If you buy a vehicle new you 
expect such things to be done at no cost. If you buy it second hand from a 
rover dealer and take it back there you still expect it. I bought mine in a 
different state - from a Toyota dealer. Anyway it has been good to get 
things like this done for nothing.

I have been thinking about a dual fuel conversion for the discovery. I 
believe that the petrol tank can be replaced with 2 gas tanks running front 
to back. This leaves about 4 places for one or more tanks. behind the rear 
wheels (l&r), or between the front and rear axles outside the chassis rails 
(l&r).

Has anyone out there had a conversion performed on their vehicle? What 
usable tank sizes are possible for the petrol and gas?

I have heard of a backfire problem with the gas conversions my guess is the 
following:
When running on gas, there is a fuel-air mixture in the air intake side of 
the plenum (?) chamber. If a stray spark occurs while an inlet valve is 
open, the fuel air mixture can ignite and burn all the way back to the gas 
carburettor, doing 2 things:
1    blow up the air filter box - quite expensive
2    destroy the airflow sensor - very expensive
When running on petrol, the volume of fuel air mixture available for a 
backfire is much smaller - if a bang does occur it is not as big or 
expensive.

I have heard that the backfires can occur when starting the car with your 
foot on the accelerator. Doing this is not needed on EFI cars but is 
evidently VERY BAD on rovers running on gas. Are there any special gadgets 
that people use for their conversions on rovers to alleviate this potential 
problem?

Any advice or experiences are welcome - just please don't tell me that I 
should have bought a Tdi in the first place.

regards

Ant Perry

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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: BSROA/RN Winter course
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 22:20:19 -0500

Thanks to all those who made last night's BSROA 5th Holiday party a =
success - thanks to Member Bill Mariano and his wife Elyse for providing =
the gourmet food and cool venue to have it as well!! See you there next =
year!

The 2nd annual Winter Driving Course at Rovers North currently has room =
for a maximum of four more people due to some recent cancellations.

Contact the Club line on 617-545-4743 if you are interested or post me =
directly.

Cheers
Jim

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Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 20:32:32 -0800
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Rear Seats
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

>I have a 1994 D90 with the standard "bench" rear seat.  I am
contemplating  >getting four of the side-mounted rear seats but am
concerned about the  >installation (not only of the seat but the
seat-belts).  Has anyone installed  these.  >What were your experiences?
DJP 2palmers@msn.com

If it's like my IIA, then all you do is drill the holes for the bolts
that hold the seats and then drill the holes for the belts.  You'll do
better with two people when bolting the seats and belts, as one can be
inside holding the bolt head while one is outside turning the nuts.

C

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Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<HTML><BODY>

<DT>&gt;I have a 1994 D90 with the standard &quot;bench&quot; rear seat.&nbsp;
I am contemplating&nbsp; &gt;getting four of the side-mounted rear seats
but am concerned about the&nbsp; &gt;installation (not only of the seat
but the seat-belts).&nbsp; Has anyone installed&nbsp; these.&nbsp; &gt;What
were your experiences? DJP 2palmers@msn.com</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>If it's like&nbsp;my IIA, then all you do is drill the holes for the
bolts that hold the seats and then drill the holes for the belts.&nbsp;
You'll do better with two people when bolting the seats and belts, as one
can be inside holding the bolt head while one is outside turning the nuts.</DT>

<DT>&nbsp;</DT>

<DT>C</DT>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------------5CEA1C556FAA0--

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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 16:09:00 EST

All,

I got under the Rangie last night and drained the swivel ball housings.  It 
seemed that the housings had sucked in some water when I did some water 
crossings a week ago.

The diffs and transfer case were fine.

As was pointed out recently by someone on the net, the diffs and transfer 
case have extended breathers but the swivel housings don't.

I think I'll check the swivel housings when ever I do crossings in future. 
 I might even carry enough oil in a squeeze bottle to enable a change on the 
trail.  At least old Land Cruisers use grease.

Ron Beckett
'83 RR 3.5L manual
'87 RR 4.8L auto
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660   -  for pictures see
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html
'67 Hillman Gazelle

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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Warn Winch Maintenance
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 22:28:00 EST

I (Ron originally wrote)

>As there were no replies to my previous post about Warn winch maintenance,
>I rang ARB who import the Warn winch.
On Thu, 02 Jan 97 08:47:12 EST "Bobeck, David R." wrote
          I though WARN was a US company????
          Probably would to the folks at WARN...1 800-543-WARN Ive
          gotten lots of great infomation from a guy
          named Ron Hoffman. Isn't WARN made in the US?

Sorry, Dave.  I should have made it clear I am in Australia.  ARB import the 
winch FROM the USA to here.
Sean Murphy has advised I have, in all likelihood, a 6000lb winch.

Unfortunately, we can't ring US 1 800 numbers.  We need a full number and AC 
to call.  Calling the overseas is relatively cheap from Australia.  We are 
one of the cheapest countries in the world from which to call (I know, I 
work for the international carrier - what was the Overseas 
Telecommunications Corporation OTC - and have done for 31 years).

Sorry about the delay in replying.  I am on the LRO Digest and sometimes the 
digest is delayed in our mail server.  Only received 3 Jan digest  today.

I have now amended my signature file

PS re Seinfeld
>her name rhymed with a part of the female anatomy...turned out to be 
Delores.
What part rhymes with Delores?

Regards
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
Fax +61 2 9339-6929
'83 RR 3.5L manual
'87 RR 4.8L auto
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660   -  for pictures see
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html
'67 Hillman Gazelle

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Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 12:50:46 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: Lockers / No Lockers

Hello all,

I've been following the discussions on lockers.
There is one thing I'd like to know, are the lockers mounted in the
existing differential or do you buy a complete axle?
I've been thinking about buying a sailsbury axle to lessen the chance of
broken half shafts, so if the lockers are a in-the-diff mount job, I'd
need to know if I kan fit them in the sailsbury.

Thanks again!
Floris Houniet
'69 109

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