[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "John P. Casteel" [jcast | 18 | unsubscribe |
2 | "Keith W. Cooper" [kwcoo | 17 | [not specified] |
3 | "Daniel Palmer" [2Palmer | 20 | "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT |
4 | Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb | 31 | Re: Manuals and Books! |
5 | "LT J Jackson" [lt_j_jac | 49 | Oh No - Water in my motor o |
6 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR | 24 | Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o |
7 | Solihull@aol.com | 31 | Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT |
8 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 19 | SIIa Radiator hose |
9 | lopezba@atnet.at | 63 | Re: Overdrive |
10 | lopezba@atnet.at | 31 | Series One, Mercedes and MG A |
11 | MRogers315@aol.com | 15 | Subject: Swap meets in England this Spring ? |
12 | jimallen@onlinecol.com ( | 29 | Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT |
13 | "Oscar Beasley" [beasley | 32 | High-speed transfer vs. overdrive |
14 | Ashley Charlwood [101320 | 15 | Clutch release spring?? |
15 | amanda@zeta.org.au (Aman | 30 | Re:Diesel Engine Conversion. |
16 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 21 | Carbs |
17 | Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb | 21 | Re: Clutch release spring?? |
18 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 45 | Overdrive (answers????) |
19 | Jeremy John Bartlett [Sb | 20 | Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o |
20 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 30 | Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o |
21 | "Daniel Palmer" [2Palmer | 11 | Rear Seats |
22 | cbemail@mindspring.com ( | 24 | Re: LR 88 4 Sale in East TN |
23 | "Richard P. Biby" [rich@ | 36 | Shipping Series Rovers to the US |
24 | cascardo@ix.netcom.com ( | 51 | Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT |
25 | john hess [jfhess@wheel. | 33 | barbara toy and Ireland, Disco accident again |
26 | Richard Clarke [clarker@ | 20 | Re: choice of locking diffs |
27 | "Perry, Anthony" [anthon | 54 | LPG conversions on 3.9L Discoveries |
28 | Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3. | 19 | BSROA/RN Winter course |
29 | Chris Dow [dow@thelen.or | 45 | Re: Rear Seats |
30 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 27 | Water Crossings and Oil don't mix |
31 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 45 | Warn Winch Maintenance |
32 | Floris Houniet [Houniet@ | 17 | Re: Lockers / No Lockers |
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 11:10:53 -0500 From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com> Subject: unsubscribe unsubscribe Well folks, business has been keeping me away from the computer recently and my mailbox is overflowing!! I am unsubscribing until things quiet down and I can begin reading your messages again. When I return, I hope to have the database, of series vehicles, in a searchable format and on it's own page. Best wishes to all and I will see you soon. John Casteel Send entries to the database to jcasteel@mindspring.com -Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Manuals and Books! Date: Sun, 5 Jan 97 10:23:38 -0600 From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> Hello All- My long search is over! I've just made a deal on a 1966 IIa 88" and will be driving to pick it up this weekend! I was wanting advice on the best workshop/parts/resotoration manuals for this vehicle. I am no real mechanic, but can figure just about anything out from a good manual and illustration. I want a good and complete guide for body work and interior work as well as engine work. Any ideas? Sources for these books? Thanks- Keith W. Cooper ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 97 15:09:47 UT From: "Daniel Palmer" <2Palmers@msn.com> Subject: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT Hello folks, Yesterday I ran out of gas in my 1994 D90 while travelling down the highway (I should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it chugged along a short way and I then pulled over and stopped. I walked to the gas station, got a can and some gas and returned. I filled the tank, started the engine, and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on. Nothing seems to be wrong with the vehicle. It seems to be running fine. But that blasted light remains on. Is this light one that can be "reset". Is it triggered and then stays on until you take it in and the dealer "resets" it. Or, is it one that stays on as long as it senses a problem with the engine? If there is a way to reset it, please let me know. I appreciate your help. DJP 2palmers@msn.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 09:48:26 -0800 From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Manuals and Books! Keith W. Cooper wrote: > snip > I was wanting advice on the best [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > interior work as well as engine work. Any ideas? Sources for these > books? Oh boy are you going to have fun :) The best books are, IMHO, the LR shop manual for procedures and the LR parts catalog for figuring out what goes where (diagrams are generally very good). The Haynes manual is also very good for mechanical work guidance that is sometimes more detailed than the LR manual. Porter's guide to Series Restoration seems to me to be more biased towards body work, so you might want that too. (I use all 4). And, of course, like most of us, you can avoid reading the books/manuals and just post here :) There are assorted locations for the books including RN and BP (+AB?) also the LROI bookshop carries just about anything. I've used predominantly LROI and BP. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 5 Jan 1997 13:06:11 -0400 From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu> Subject: Oh No - Water in my motor o Ladies and Gentlemen: This is my first posting to the list, precipitated by a (possible) crisis. My 88" SIII (2.25l gas) had a bit of water in the motor oil :-(, and I'm not certain about the cause. At first I thought it was a blown head gasket or a crack in the block, but after a quick panic, several beers, and an afternoon coated in oil, I'm not so sure. Here's why: 1. There was no anti-freeze in the water on the dipstick. 2. After pushing the monster up a 3 pct. grade into the garage with my wife's H*nda wagon (first making sure that she was occupied on the other side of the house) and changing the oil and filter (no apparent water in the drain oil), I ran the car until it warmed up and found no water on the dipstick. Then I changed the oil again (plenty of frame oil on hand for next year!). Ran it for a while, still no water. At this point I'm very happy with myself for not having express-ordered the head gasket from RN, and, aided by the consumption of further beers, I began to convince myself that there had never been water in the oil in the first place. The next morning I start the car, let it run one or two minutes then shut it off to check for water. Yep, a small amount of water on the dipstick again. In desperation, I concocted a theory which seems to have proven correct. Remembering the threads on the list about radiator mufflers, I decided that my Rover had not been running hot enough to cook off the normal condensate which forms inside the block (the weather has been between 15F and 50F over the last week, and the temp gauge has barely climbed out of the cold range). So I made a crude, but efficient, air dam out of old license plates and went for a drive. The engine warmed nicely to the upper-normal quadrant of the temp. gauge, which was much warmer than it had been running previously. I checked the oil - no apparent water. My question, finally, is this: Has anyone else ever experienced this situation? Maybe I'm overreacting, in typical newbie fashion, to a Series-motor norm, but I'd just like to be certain. Thanks for your time. Sorry for the bandwidth. Jeff Jackson '73 88" Series III HT Waterford, CT, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 13:24:21 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o On 5 Jan 1997, LT J Jackson wrote: > My question, finally, is this: Has anyone else ever experienced this > situation? Maybe I'm overreacting, in typical newbie fashion, to a > Series-motor norm, but I'd just like to be certain. At risk of lots of "I knew it!" I must comment that I am amazed that you found this in the first place. One, becuase I would never have dreamed of checking, but second, if found, I would have ignored it anyway. Suffice it to say, the Dixon brand of LR maintenance is not for everyone, though I know of people on the list who are adherents to the principles. Overreact? Naw... Overreacting is Spencer diagnosing a loose shock bolt as a gearbox going south... :-) Rgds, (I don't need to check the il. I have the consumption rate down by heart and top up appropriately... :-)) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 15:09:56 -0500 Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT Disclaimer: I have no direct experience with D90 engine management. This is based on general stuff learned on both sides of a parts counter, over twenty+ years. Now that's out of the way, Here is something to try before you have to spend any money. Some modern FI systems 'learn' as they go, and a major malfunction or change, like even a broken speedo cable, (happened to my mom in her Chevy S-10) can cause erratic operation or the appearance of a warning light. Perhaps the out of fuel episode caused the vehicle to learn that CO or NOx levels were out of parameters, so the 'puter tells you to "CHECK ENGINE". Disconnecting the battery for a minute will cause the system to dump its memory and go back to the baseline settings, and *may turn the light off. Expect the engine to behave differently for several miles, while it relearns your style and its environment. Let us know what happens! Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 14:27:00 -6 From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Subject: SIIa Radiator hose A addtion to peoples' aftermarket parts lists. The upper radiator hose on the IIa & III 2.25l can be replaced with a Dayco 70687, a molded hose with an inner stiffener coil. It's too long, but can be easily cut to length. They can usually be found on special for about $2.00 US. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 21:47:40 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Overdrive Adrian Redmond wanted to know: >What is the principle of overdrive, and how does it work, what are the >pros and cons? Basically it is an extra gearbox with only two gears (normal and high). Normal just gives you what your gearbox gives you, and high increases by about 28 % (I think) which means - see below. Pros: See below. Cons: Something else to break down; comparatively expensive (about 500 UKP); not terribly well engineered, needs a lot more care than most other LR components - but then you are really taking care of your LR's, if I remember correctly. >Can it be retrofitted to a series III diesel? How? Is it a LR original >upgrade (!) or an aftermarket afterthought? Yes, it can be retrofitted by taking the place of the rear bearing housing of the transfer box and cutting a small hole in the transmission tunnel for the additional gearstick. It is made by Fairey in the UK, but approved by LR and LR sell it as a LR part. Its a DIY job for somebody fairly handy, although you need a special LR tool (which can be home-made) to remove the transfer box mainshaft nut. >Will it improve (decrease) rpm and engine/transmission noise on motorway >driving, save on fuel, and does it save wear on transmission/motor? Since it increases gearing, it will either save fuel and reduce noise at your usual highway speed or allow higher speed (not 28 % though - the Diesel has little power at the high end). >How is it selected/deselected - I seem to remember reading about >electrical selection, but I read something here the other day about an >extra "gear-stick" ? Are there various options available? Does anyone >have any good/bad recommendations. You get a fourth gearstick to really confuse everybody. In principle, with an overdrive you have 16 forward and four reverse gears to select from, or get screwed up by. However, since the overdrive is not terribly strong it is not advisable to use it with anything lower than third or fourth high. The electric overdrive you mention was available for Jaguars, Rovers and various other British cars, but not for the LR AFAIK. I am not aware of any options except a transfer box modification by Ian Ashcroft in the UK which also gives you higher gearing (15 or 30 %, depending on what you get) in high, but does not allow you to go back to the "normal" gearing if you know what I mean. The there's higher ratio differentials, but that of course also affects your low gear. The general consensus seems to be to stay away from used O/D's unless you know it is only six months old and is being sold because the vehicle was totalled - Hope this helps Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 21:47:54 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Series One, Mercedes and MG A Dear all, just a short note: Finally got the rear body of my SI off the chassis today. Delays were due to a bad cold, very low temperatures and some extremely stubborn bolts. But now it's done and we can turn to the easy things, like the rear springs and bushings ;>). I ought to say that may wife, although American, hates driving. Lately, however, she said she wouldn't mind having a car after all. Since this is not going to be used a lot I wanted to combine it with ownership of an old car. Just before Christmas I found two likely candidates: A 1968 Mercedes 250 SL Automatic, pagoda roof and all, in very good shape, for about 23,000 USD, and a 1957 MG A, a little worse for wear but a good runner apparently, for about half that. So we went and we looked and we thought it over and we went once more. Last Saturday we went for the last time, I wanted to have a decision by tomorrow /a holiday in Austria). So last night my wife decided she wanted neither the one nor the other, since these cars were not really our style (I have to agree). She would rather have a Series One of her own, she said. Thought I would let you know just in case you ever needed an example. Take care Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MRogers315@aol.com Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 15:55:09 -0500 Subject: Subject: Swap meets in England this Spring ? The biggest Land-Rover meet in the UK is the ARC International Rally, being held 24 to 26th May at Llangollen North Wales. Incidently if any other subscribers are going to be there ( and I certainly shall ) perhaps we could arange to meet over a beer one night and put faces to the names on the list. Mik Rogers. ( Lightweight / Range Rover Hybrid ) Coming up for its 5th ARC National. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 14:08:15 -0700 From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen) Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT >should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it chugged along a >short way and I then pulled over and stopped. I walked to the gas station, >got a can and some gas and returned. I filled the tank, started the engine, >and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on. DJP, Running out of fuel can cause the light to come on. The system is not smart enough to discern an actual EFI fault from running out of fuel. You have two choices, 1) disconnect the battery for a few seconds to erase the memory. The adaptive memory will quickly relearn and you will aslo have to re-enter your radio codes, or 2) you can unplug the ECU under the passenger seat with the same result, except you won't have the radio code to enter. Some caveats to this for others looking for an easy way to get rid of a light. Don't do it with OBD-2 systems ('96 up Disco, Range Rover) and '97 D90. Also, if it came on for no apparent reason (some examples of lights coming on with no real trouble would include running out of fuel, high altitude operation when the car is adjusted for se level, etc.), caution would dictate a trip to the dealer. Real problems are usually accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel lazy or cheap. JIm Allen ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Oscar Beasley" <beasleyo@milo.cfw.com> Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 16:24:00 +0000 Subject: High-speed transfer vs. overdrive Looking for any information (actual experience preferably) from the LIST concerning the use of a high-speed transfer case as opposed to using an overdrive. I understand that the highspeed x-fer provides the equivalent of the high side of the overdrive, but without the necessity of shifting. Also have been led to believe that this significantly cuts down on NOISE (screaming/whinning)usually heard from the O/D. Low-range is supposedly unaffected. These units are advertised in LROI, but I have never seen a technical evaluation or discussion of them anywhere. It seems, from an admittedly flawed memory, that there was a firm in Australia that did some sort of work with this type of set-up, also. I have been the overdrive route, having had one screamer from new, and one getting that way after 10K or so miles. This was after using synthetics from new with Slick-50 transmission stuff and then Amsoil. My experience with rebuilding the old O/D was that it really didn't make any difference. The mating surfaces of the main gears were already at fault for noise, and new bearings, etc. couldn't re-align things once the wear patterns were established. Any thoughts, help, etc. is appreciated- Oscar Beasley ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 05 Jan 97 16:52:17 EST From: Ashley Charlwood <101320.2736@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Clutch release spring?? Having munched 1st Gear on my Land Rover, taken the 'box out refitted 1st and put it back in I can't get the clutch to work properly, the slave cylinder is not pressing on the pin in gearbox housing. Somebody has mentioned that it could be the clutch release spring/bearing. Before I take the box out again has anyone got any other ideas as to what it is? Ashley SIII lightweight V8 ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 09:12:23 +1100 From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis) Subject: Re:Diesel Engine Conversion. G'day Paul: >>From the subject line, I assume that you have a diesel in yours. If this >is the case, could you tell me what sort it is, and how it performs? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >The 202 is quite a good lump, but uses lots of petrol and doesn't have the >charisma of a diesel. The Is*zu engine transplant has been an excellent choice I must admit. It was a very time consuming conversion but the end result was a LR that was comfortable at highway speeds (100 km/hr), didn't need a fuel truck to follow it and is excellent off-road. A friend who previously owned a Series III with a Holden 202 and 5-speed gearbox has said that his was no quieter than the Is*zu when on the road. You can however recondition a 202 for a lot less cash than another engine will set you back. Then again, someone buying a Land Rover may not be known to normally make sound and/or rational financial decisions. Regards Phil Carkagis S III 109 5-door 101 FC ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:18:22 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Carbs WRT Jims Allen's CFD on carbs, I've only run three on my 88, and each lasted for about 70,000 miles. The original Zenith 36 IV*E* died 'cause I didn't know about the glass plate grinding thing at the time. Next was a Holley 2494 adapted to fit. Ran *great*. Even got a documented 27+ mpg on one trip. Forgot to drain the carb when the vehicle was taken off the road. I turned to a lump of varnish. The present carb is the Zenith (now Solex) 36IV and I've glass-plated it once and it needs it again. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 16:34:49 -0800 From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Clutch release spring?? Ashley Charlwood wrote: snip > I can't get the clutch to work properly, the slave cylinder is > not pressing on the pin in gearbox housing. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > Before I take the box out again has anyone got any other ideas as to what it is? > Do you mean there's no motion/pressure from the slave cylinder or subsequent mechanical linkages? If that's the case then the problem is in the hydraulics. Try bleeding the system first then isolate the master/slave by clamping to determine any failure location. When you say "properly" I assume that means not at all, or does it move somewhat? cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:37:12 -0500 Subject: Overdrive (answers????) Adrian inquires about overdrives: > What is the principle of overdrive, and how does it work, what are the > pros and cons? The LR overdrive is an additional gearbox with two ratios (1:1 and 0.782:1) which lowers engine speed by 22% when the overdrive ratio is engaged. It bolts to the transfer case at the rear PTO openning, and replaces the main shaft gear which transfers power from the gearbox to the transfer case. > Can it be retrofitted to a series III diesel? How? Is it a LR original > upgrade (!) or an aftermarket afterthought? It is a LR approved accessory introduced in 1974, manufactured by Fairey, now part of Superwinch. Overdrives are still manufactured. It fits all Series LRs other than Stage I. There was also a version for early RRs. An alternative which some feel is stronger used to be available, and is refered to as a "Toro" or "Santana" overdrive. > Will it improve (decrease) rpm and engine/transmission noise on motorway > driving, save on fuel, and does it save wear on transmission/motor? It decreases engine speed when engaged, and thus will reduce noise and possibly wear. Fuel savings are dependent on a number of factors including route driven, driving style, and engine/vehicle combination. Note that decreasing engine speed reduces maximum power available so if you are using wide open throttle frequently an overdrive will not be much use. > How is it selcected/deselected - I seem to remember reading about > electrical selection, but I read something here the other day about an > extra "gear-stick" ? Are there various options available? Does anyone > have any good/bad recommendations. The Fairey unit is a straight mechanical shift with syncromesh. Shifting involves depressing the clutch and moving the lever. OD can be used with other than 4th to obtain split ratios. I believe the "Toro" unit used a vacumn actuatior to shift. The Fairey OD uses bevel gears with a layshaft. This is a fundamentally different design from the planetary gear "Laycock" od which was optional on many British cars in the past, and which had electric accuated shifting. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 16:42:10 -0800 From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o LT J Jackson wrote: >I decided that my > Rover had not been running hot enough to cook off the normal condensate That sound right to me. If you had water collecting in the pan it would mostly be at the bottom of pan (heavier than most oil). Furthermore you'd probably see some milky discoloration of the oil as it was blended with water. I don't think you've got anything to worry about. This sounds a lot like a motorcycle I own that has an oil inspection window. Naturally water condenses on the cold, exposed window and the oil there takes on a milky appearance from simple condensate. Scared me the first time I saw it :) cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 00:57:38 -0800 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Oh No - Water in my motor o Sounds OK to me, I have had a blown gasket nd I know that it looks very different - the major sign being emulsifies (milky) oil/water mixture visible in the rocker case, by removing the air cap. This sounds like normal condensation to me. [If it gets too bad, you could always replace water/antifreeze with oil, then it wouldn't matter anyway? Why has noone ever done this? Maybe they have?] :))))))( -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 97 01:02:08 UT From: "Daniel Palmer" <2Palmers@msn.com> Subject: Rear Seats I have a 1994 D90 with the standard "bench" rear seat. I am contemplating getting four of the side-mounted rear seats but am concerned about the installation (not only of the seat but the seat-belts). Has anyone installed these. What were your experiences? DJP 2palmers@msn.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 20:53:23 -0500 From: cbemail@mindspring.com (Chris Buckley) Subject: Re: LR 88 4 Sale in East TN Scott: Got your email post: sorry, I deleted your other email and so lost your telephone. Email me back with number so I can thank you in person for the detailed account of your inspection. I think the rig you saw is in much worse shape than the series II I was telling you about here in CT, or at least needs 3 times the work. I don't know what to think about the price they are asking. I am certainly not interested in it at their asking price, but might consider it for less, though I doubt it. Let me know what happens to it, if you plan on following its sale through to close: otherwise, and once again, my sincerest thanks for checking it out for me. Best, CIB ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard P. Biby" <rich@comm-data.com> Subject: Shipping Series Rovers to the US Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 20:54:14 -0500 (EST) Hello all you Rover Experts. I've been reading the digest for about a year now. Never had anything to say before, so this is my first post. I had a SI, SII and a SIII. Now I have the land-yacht Disco (95 -- back when you had to order one a wait!). I purchased the SII through someone I knew in England and had the thing shipped over. The car was in excellent condition, by US standards :-), having just passed the MOT. The car was about $2,000, shipping was $750, and an importer fee was about $250. I picked up a great rover for about $3k. I drove it home to Northern VA from the port in Baltimore. Question is this: The number of "quality" series rovers in the US is very limited and thus expensive. Is there something I don't understand or know about importing series rovers? I know anything before 1965 will not require emissions or USDOT standards tests. Is there a chance of owning one of those bright, shiny yellow light weights in the back of this months LRO? Thanks for proving me wrong or showing me how to do it, Rich -- Richard P. Biby, P.E. KD4DSX 703/558.0505 Fax 703/558.0523 --> Root Emergency Procedure: type "rm -rf / <cr>" <-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 17:59:20 -0800 From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo) Subject: Re: "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT You wrote: >>should pay more attention to that gas guage thing). Anyway, it chugged along a >>short way and I then pulled over and stopped. I walked to the gas station, >>got a can and some gas and returned. I filled the tank, started the engine, >>and now my "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on. >DJP, > Running out of fuel can cause the light to come on. The system is >not smart enough to discern an actual EFI fault from running out of fuel. > You have two choices, 1) disconnect the battery for a few seconds >to erase the memory. The adaptive memory will quickly relearn and you will >aslo have to re-enter your radio codes, or 2) you can unplug the ECU under >the passenger seat with the same result, except you won't have the radio >code to enter. > Some caveats to this for others looking for an easy way to get rid >of a light. Don't do it with OBD-2 systems ('96 up Disco, Range Rover) and >'97 D90. Also, if it came on for no apparent reason (some examples of >lights coming on with no real trouble would include running out of fuel, >high altitude operation when the car is adjusted for se level, etc.), >caution would dictate a trip to the dealer. Real problems are usually >accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel lazy >or cheap. >JIm Allen >accompanied by a symptom of some kind. Bear that in mind when you feel Mine came on when the wiper blade fuse blew. Same fuse as the tach. I replaced the fuse but the check engine light still remained. The dealer reset it. He said he has seen the same problem about seven times this winter. I'll have to be more aware of ice build up. Lucas C. d90 sw ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 18:03:09 -0700 From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: barbara toy and Ireland, Disco accident again Hi all, I have been corresponding with Barabara Toy for about a year. Recently, she offered me a couple extra books. I just received The Highway of the Three Kings and Rendevous in Cyprus. The rally cool part of this is that in each, she was adventuring in a 109 with a Dormobile top. This vehicle, a 109 regular, was used in several of her adventures and I ahve asked her about it. Unfortunately, she can't remember much about it. I also asked John Riley (Land Rover UK) and he can't find out anything about it from just the registration plate (5751 WD). Can anyone help me with find this vehicle or find out more about it or any suggestions at all? Second, I am planning a vacation to Irleand in May. Any LROs in Ireland that would like to talk land rovers and have apint of Guiness (or Murphy's)? Email me, please. Third (re-request), would the person who posted the rolling of the disco, please email me? thanks, cheers, jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis" 1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box" dormobile homepage: 1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's) http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 13:48:15 +1000 From: Richard Clarke <clarker@goldy.agvic.gov.au> Subject: Re: choice of locking diffs one of the key factors I used in choosing my diff locks was the use of existing axles The most popular (US) diff lock uses the same /standard axles so I only used it on the back where I have a Salsbury anyway On the front I used a MaxiDrive as they replaced the standard 10 spline axles (and diff side bits) with salsbury size/type I had already broken a front axle on my Australian Isuzu 3.9D Phase 1 so was looking for something stronger All of your locks seem to be much cheaper than in Aus Richard Clarke Manager HR Risk Management Department of Natural Resources & Environment Victoria Australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 13:28 +1030 From: "Perry, Anthony" <anthony.perry@dsto.defence.gov.au> Subject: LPG conversions on 3.9L Discoveries Hello everyone, Hope you are enjoying/have enjoyed the Christmas break. I bought a 95 Landrover discovery a couple of months ago. How has it gone so far? 1 Dashboard replaced under original new car warranty 2 rear power window lockout button replaced under warranty 3 front passenger door lock inoperative from inside - adjusted 4 Cruise control button replaced under warranty all of these things were done at no cost. If you buy a vehicle new you expect such things to be done at no cost. If you buy it second hand from a rover dealer and take it back there you still expect it. I bought mine in a different state - from a Toyota dealer. Anyway it has been good to get things like this done for nothing. I have been thinking about a dual fuel conversion for the discovery. I believe that the petrol tank can be replaced with 2 gas tanks running front to back. This leaves about 4 places for one or more tanks. behind the rear wheels (l&r), or between the front and rear axles outside the chassis rails (l&r). Has anyone out there had a conversion performed on their vehicle? What usable tank sizes are possible for the petrol and gas? I have heard of a backfire problem with the gas conversions my guess is the following: When running on gas, there is a fuel-air mixture in the air intake side of the plenum (?) chamber. If a stray spark occurs while an inlet valve is open, the fuel air mixture can ignite and burn all the way back to the gas carburettor, doing 2 things: 1 blow up the air filter box - quite expensive 2 destroy the airflow sensor - very expensive When running on petrol, the volume of fuel air mixture available for a backfire is much smaller - if a bang does occur it is not as big or expensive. I have heard that the backfires can occur when starting the car with your foot on the accelerator. Doing this is not needed on EFI cars but is evidently VERY BAD on rovers running on gas. Are there any special gadgets that people use for their conversions on rovers to alleviate this potential problem? Any advice or experiences are welcome - just please don't tell me that I should have bought a Tdi in the first place. regards Ant Perry ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com> Subject: BSROA/RN Winter course Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 22:20:19 -0500 Thanks to all those who made last night's BSROA 5th Holiday party a = success - thanks to Member Bill Mariano and his wife Elyse for providing = the gourmet food and cool venue to have it as well!! See you there next = year! The 2nd annual Winter Driving Course at Rovers North currently has room = for a maximum of four more people due to some recent cancellations. Contact the Club line on 617-545-4743 if you are interested or post me = directly. Cheers Jim ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 20:32:32 -0800 From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: Rear Seats Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii >I have a 1994 D90 with the standard "bench" rear seat. I am contemplating >getting four of the side-mounted rear seats but am concerned about the >installation (not only of the seat but the seat-belts). Has anyone installed these. >What were your experiences? DJP 2palmers@msn.com If it's like my IIA, then all you do is drill the holes for the bolts that hold the seats and then drill the holes for the belts. You'll do better with two people when bolting the seats and belts, as one can be inside holding the bolt head while one is outside turning the nuts. C ------------5CEA1C556FAA0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <HTML><BODY> <DT>>I have a 1994 D90 with the standard "bench" rear seat. I am contemplating >getting four of the side-mounted rear seats but am concerned about the >installation (not only of the seat but the seat-belts). Has anyone installed these. >What were your experiences? DJP 2palmers@msn.com</DT> <DT> </DT> <DT>If it's like my IIA, then all you do is drill the holes for the bolts that hold the seats and then drill the holes for the belts. You'll do better with two people when bolting the seats and belts, as one can be inside holding the bolt head while one is outside turning the nuts.</DT> <DT> </DT> <DT>C</DT> </BODY> </HTML> ------------5CEA1C556FAA0-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Water Crossings and Oil don't mix Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 16:09:00 EST All, I got under the Rangie last night and drained the swivel ball housings. It seemed that the housings had sucked in some water when I did some water crossings a week ago. The diffs and transfer case were fine. As was pointed out recently by someone on the net, the diffs and transfer case have extended breathers but the swivel housings don't. I think I'll check the swivel housings when ever I do crossings in future. I might even carry enough oil in a squeeze bottle to enable a change on the trail. At least old Land Cruisers use grease. Ron Beckett '83 RR 3.5L manual '87 RR 4.8L auto '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - for pictures see http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html '67 Hillman Gazelle ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Warn Winch Maintenance Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 22:28:00 EST I (Ron originally wrote) >As there were no replies to my previous post about Warn winch maintenance, >I rang ARB who import the Warn winch. On Thu, 02 Jan 97 08:47:12 EST "Bobeck, David R." wrote I though WARN was a US company???? Probably would to the folks at WARN...1 800-543-WARN Ive gotten lots of great infomation from a guy named Ron Hoffman. Isn't WARN made in the US? Sorry, Dave. I should have made it clear I am in Australia. ARB import the winch FROM the USA to here. Sean Murphy has advised I have, in all likelihood, a 6000lb winch. Unfortunately, we can't ring US 1 800 numbers. We need a full number and AC to call. Calling the overseas is relatively cheap from Australia. We are one of the cheapest countries in the world from which to call (I know, I work for the international carrier - what was the Overseas Telecommunications Corporation OTC - and have done for 31 years). Sorry about the delay in replying. I am on the LRO Digest and sometimes the digest is delayed in our mail server. Only received 3 Jan digest today. I have now amended my signature file PS re Seinfeld >her name rhymed with a part of the female anatomy...turned out to be Delores. What part rhymes with Delores? Regards Ron Beckett Emu Plains, Australia Fax +61 2 9339-6929 '83 RR 3.5L manual '87 RR 4.8L auto '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - for pictures see http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html '67 Hillman Gazelle ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 12:50:46 +0100 From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Lockers / No Lockers Hello all, I've been following the discussions on lockers. There is one thing I'd like to know, are the lockers mounted in the existing differential or do you buy a complete axle? I've been thinking about buying a sailsbury axle to lessen the chance of broken half shafts, so if the lockers are a in-the-diff mount job, I'd need to know if I kan fit them in the sailsbury. Thanks again! Floris Houniet '69 109 ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 32 lines 1417 [forwarded 95 whitespace 324] Output: lines 1162 [content 661 forwarded 85 (cut 10) whitespace 310][ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970106 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Back | Forward | |
---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
|