Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: RE Visors and parts to Canada
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 07:38:00 -0500

Shipping parts from US, or anywhere else, to Canada by UPS presents one
problem that deserves special mention. Even if the goods are tariff
rated as duty free you will be charged Goods and Services Tax on the
listed price and also UPS will stiff you with a brokerage fee of at
least $35. It's actually better to use the postal system if possible
because Canada Post only charges a $5.00 handling fee. Best method is to
have parts delivered to a US address and then pick up from there and
make your own way through customs. This of course can cost you more than
the $35 if your not close to the border.

You pays your money and takes your choice.

 I'm told that for goods less than $20 value with pre-completed customs
forms UPS will not charge brokerage. If you try this route have the
shipper obtain written confirmation of "No brokerage charge" because the
one time I tried this method from Canada to USA I recieved an invoice
direct from the brokerage house. I still haven't paid it, but that's
another story.

We have even received an invoice for $48 on a small part that was
ordered from California and never even delivered.  The local UPS office
said it was there awaiting pick-up, though nobody told us. Then they
couldn't find it and claimed it was left at the door,  but they had no
signature. The saga is on going.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 9:06:53 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Wheel prep

Want to save money? Of course you do.
In order to strip your wheels, or anything else for that matter, you only 
need a big plastic tub and a few bucks worth of chemicals.
You'll need from the grocery store: 4-5 cans of Red Devil lye.
>From the hardware store: A tub big enough for a wheel. plastic or 
galvanized steel.

Fill the tub with regular tap water and dissolve 4 cans of lye in the 
water. Plunk your gunkiest, greasiest wheel in the bath overnight. In the 
morning, take the wheel out to the curb and hose it with a strong garden 
hose. It will be stripped clean as a whistle. Use rubber gloves.

For rust, try good old naval jelly and some steel wool.

This works for just about anything that is painted or greasy steel. Don't 
put your aluminum or brass parts in such a bath.

Prime with Rustoleum Red and finish coat with your favorite color alkyd 
or polyurethane enamel. For authenticity, the wheels should be limestone 
or almond. If you're really picky, rent a sprayer.

Total cost should be around $30-40 including paint. More if you spray.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 08:48:41 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Koenig Winch

To all:

Could anyone forward any information that they may have regarding the
winch  that was on my rover when I purchased it? It's identified:
Koenig Iron Works, Model 30.
Peter Rosvall
-----

Peter;

I've got a model Koenig LR-592, don't know anything about the model 30. 
 Call Howard Paschke at Mateco 713-692-3888.  He's the current 
distributor for Koenig in Houston, where Rawson-Koenig still resides.  
He was very helpful when I bought mine, and used to work for Koenig I 
believe.  Any questions contact me directly. hermans@krts.com

Herman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 96 09:29:35 -0800 (PST)
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Subject: KF4NAS - want to swap LR stories on HF???

John, you wrote:

No, I didn't get one either! And Pansy (25902676) is *still* down for the
engine rebuild. Good thing I've had others rovers to use this year! Strictly
test driving after repairs, you understand!!
I haven't received one AW since the last time I sent in twenty bucks, and
they tell me I've been dropped from the list. This is aggravating. 
Merry Christmas, everybody!

John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation

LRONA in all deference, has been going through a tough year.  Some very hard
working folks have put in a lot of time trying to get our national Landy
organization through some difficult growing pains.  I understand the number
of members grew rapidly, and the original organization leaders were burning
out after many years of service in the trenchs.  

That said, I'm like you, I've received two issues of AW, the last of which I
had to work hard to get.  I've even offered to send in a renewal, with a
kind deferral from the present President.  Guess we accidently slipped off
the membership roles or something.  From what I hear, the latest issue is
wonderful.  Just wish we could see it :-(

I note from our 73's VIN numbers that our SIII's rolled off the assembly
lines pretty close to one another.  If you have a General Class ticket, or
higher, maybe we can get on 20 meters some day and chat about (you know,
tell tall tales, lies, etc.) the wonders of owning such wonderful vehicles.
For instance, my landy spent most of it's life in Montana where a PO put a
high powered rifle bullet through the floor board AND frame!  Umm, probably
a good example of road swatting deer.  Or how it was dropped on it's left
side early on it her life...Leaks ever since...

Let's chat!

Dale

-----
Dale W. Avery KC7MM & Ms Daisy - 1973 SIII 88" Land Rover (#25902747 B) 
     "No matter where you go, there you are." - Buckaroo Bonzai

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 10:22:56 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Back to Kodiak was Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> snip
>  The solution is easy.  Just install series diamond plate wing protectors,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Just pretend you have a series Land Rover with a kodiak heater and someone
> installed the wrong wing.

Hmmm..

My Kodiak... Mathilda's (65 SIIA) runs to the front grill.  No side hole in the wing. 
Did Kodiak mountings/intakes change for SIIIs?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 10:33:18 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: RN Mugs was Re: The AW blues

Dale W. Avery wrote:
>snip
> Am I the only poor slob who hasn't received the AW yet???
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Most of the left coasters I know are sitting around their little fireplaces,
> drinking hot chocolate out of their RN mugs, 

Hah, talk about non-deliveries :)  I've got a letter from RN indicating
I'm "owed" a mug on backorder for a spotting.  That letter is about 6 months
old :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 14:08:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Back to Kodiak - Wing vs. Grille?

Winging vs. Grilling your Kodiak:

Simple - the Kodiak Mk. II and III ran their intakes to the wing, and the
MK I Kodiaks didn't, preferring a tube to the right front grille opening.

The MK. I Kodiak also had a different heater box, having the heater core
itself in the passenger footwell. When you opened the little doors on the
front of the box, you were actually staring at the heater. These didn't
have push-pull controls, doing everything right there on the heater box
with the doors.

The MK. II and III had the heater core on the intake side of the blower,
with a simple director assembly in the footwell. These also mounted through
the pedal openings in the top of the footbox, creating a "no-cut" heater
installation. Very tidy. They also had the air valve and heater water flow
controlled by push-pull cables on the driver's dashboard.

Any questions? 8*)

               aj"Spent WAY  too much time with the catalogues..."r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 23:14:44 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Back to Kodiak was Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> > snip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Did Kodiak mountings/intakes change for SIIIs?
> cheers,
> Jeremy

Jeremy, 
My 67 IIA has the intake in the outer right fender skin. About where
series three Original Equipment heaters are installed. By the way does
anyone have either a diverter plate (demister or heater)for a Kodiak
that I can buy, or can someone get me a pattern for one. I know it is
just thin steel.
Tom
 2 x 72 88's  Smiths heat
 1 x 67 88    Smiths round heater for the driver and side glass
demisting
              Kodiak for the passenger side and front glass demisting.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 12:01:52 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Back to Kodiak - Wing vs. Grille?

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com wrote:

> The MK. I Kodiak also had a different heater box, having the heater core
> itself in the passenger footwell. When you opened the little doors on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Any questions? 8*)
> Yes, why does my MK.1 have push-pull controls?  :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 21:12:52 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Heaters...Brrrrr

Hi guys,
I'm back!! (did anybody know I was gone?)
Thanks to the dutch chap who got his LR apk'd cheaply for calling me,
and very sincere apologies for in the meantime I lost his e-mail and
tel. number, and forgot his name. :-(
My computer blew up, real smoke and all, so now I'm emailing from my
work and I have to erase all my emails every time I've read them....
My wallet won't allow repairs to the LR and the computer, so it's tough
luck for intel!

Anyway, I also have heater problems and I thought I'd just chuck them in
the group now that everybody has dredged up all the info on them.
I think I have a smiths, (shinburner type) but it has a lable stating
that is a german made bosch. 
The round core is still perfect only the fan motor run out of it's
bearings and now does about 2 rpm before it stops and starts emitting a
rather bad odor. (a bit like my computer)
Any ideas on where to get replacement parts / have it rebuilt / install
a kodiak (the heater that takes photos?) or just freeze.
I wouldn't mind a really cheap fix.

2nd problem:
I took the rear left brake (109 sIIa) apart to find out why it wasn't
doing it's bit and found out that there was lots of oil all over the
pads etc... It seems to be leaking from along the axle somewhere.
Any clues? Could this be a leakage due to a blocked axle case breather?

3rd problem:
Major lack of power.
I drove it home a month ago after buying it from an old farmer chap who
had left it standing fo about two years. This was a 160 mile journey,
doing 30 -40 mph. It got better as we drove and evenatally i was racing
along at about 65. (downhill).
It is most noticable when I pull up. The engine nearly stalls when I
press the accelerator pedal in, so it needs a bit of 'pumping' to get
the rev's up. To actually drive off I need to get up max rev's let the
clutch up and do this a couple of times before it'll have enough speed
not to stall the engine.
I've checked the carb (a zenith), and found out that the acceleration
pump was completly filled with petrol residue. This cleaned improved
matters slightly but not in a major way. The petrol engine is really
impressive when started. (btw. idling is no problem) It pumps out HUGE
amounts of smoke , black blue grey ..., before calming down a bit.

I still have a 109 full of questions, but I'll leave it at this for the
time being.
Have a very merry Christmas and a happy New Year!
Floris Houniet, '69 109 SIIa
Houniet@xs4all.nl
Working christmas to keep the AT&T networks going. :-(

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 15:13:21 -0500
Subject: Re: The AW blues

Just wanted to let everyone know what a great job Michael Carradine and John
White and many others are doing to get LROANA up and running again! I got
speedy answers to my email queries and the problem is all handled now!
It*did* help that I still had the cancelled check from last may, probably.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS   LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 15:37:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Back to Kodiak - Wing vs. Grille?

Re: Why does my Mk. 1 have push-pull controls?

Simple....errrr.....8*)

Yes, it should for the air valve and the water valve. I blew it.....8*)

                   aj"Looked it up this time in my Notes..."r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 16:24:29 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr

Problem 1:
Go where electric motors are sold and buy a replacement type 12 volt fan 
motor with a 1/4 inch axle. About $20.

Problem 2:
You have a worn out hub seal. Common problem. You need new brake pads 
because the old ones are soaked with oil, and a new distance piece and 
seal. Remove the hub and pull out the old seal. Remove the distance piece 
on the spindle by driving at it at right angles with a chisel and a big 
hammer. It will eventually loosen enough to slide off or may break 
completely. Drive on a new one using the old one as a pad. reassemble the 
hub.

Problem 3:
Check to see that the vacuum advance system on the distributor is 
operating properly, or your breaker plate is stuck. If it is in good 
order ,then one or more passages in the carb body are blocked, preventing 
the engine from getting fuel when it needs it. Suggest a disassembly and 
cleaning of the carb as well as a tune up with new plugs, wires, cap, 
rotor and condensor. Adjust the valves and set the timing as well.
If none of this helps, and I'm sure it will, then you may have a vacuum 
leak elsewhere. Check the gasket between the intake manifold and the 
cylinder head.

The excessive smoke on startup is due to worn valve guides or rings. As 
the engine warms and expands, the oil blowby decreases.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 23:17:12 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr

Aha.... But,

> Problem 1:
> Go where electric motors are sold and buy a replacement type 12 ..
Can't find anybody in holland who sell motors with axles coming out the
front and back! But if you say they're still made I'll have another bash
at it. Maybe in England?

Prob 3:
I'll have a look at the plate thing, it's in the bottom of the ignition
unit I think... I've already got new plugs, points, cap, leads,
capacitor, cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned the carb...
Oh I do remember something strange:
In the Haynes manual it said that the distance in height between the
carb housing and the fuel float should be about 33 mm, but mine is more
like 18 mm. It looks quite ok though, nicely horizontal, not leaking so
I suspect it might be a replacement part?

Thanks many many times for the tips, I'm off home now, practicing the
art of sli-ping in my old ho*da banger..

Floris 'working the late shift' Houniet 
'69 ser 11a 109"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 14:20:36 -0800
From: ed hall <goldnet@vegas.infi.net>
Subject: Links

Hello out there,
	I am putting together my own home page, and will be including links to
all my favorit areas.  So if anyone has any Land Rover links that they
would like to have included, can you send them to me?  the page is at
"http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Marina/3912/index.htm"  I will ahve
a form up on there later today so that the links can be sent ot me
without taking space on the list.  Feel free to include personal home
page links as long as they fit one of my catagories.  Since the updates
are not automatic, but come to one of my mail accounts, and need to be
posted manualy, it could take a few days for them to be added.
	Thanks in advance Ed Hall

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 17:33:50 -0500
Subject: Re: RR Models F/S

Rick;
   Just got your check, Models will go out tomorrow
Hope your Holidays are enjoyable
Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 21:07:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: RE Visors and parts to Canada

On Thu, 26 Dec 1996, Easton Trevor wrote:

> Shipping parts from US, or anywhere else, to Canada by UPS presents one
> problem that deserves special mention. Even if the goods are tariff

	It can also sit quietly in their Port Erie warehouse for a while to
	while they happily ignore it.

> You pays your money and takes your choice.

	Which is never, ever use UPS for goods from the USA.

> We have even received an invoice for $48 on a small part that was
> ordered from California and never even delivered.  The local UPS office
> said it was there awaiting pick-up, though nobody told us. Then they
> couldn't find it and claimed it was left at the door,  but they had no
> signature. The saga is on going.

	ABP sent up some stuff to the Birthday Party.  UPS messed all
	up, couldn't find Normandy Crescent.  Even claimed that the 
	street and house never existed (the house isn't there anymore,
	the street is tougher to claim) so returned it to ABP.  Then they
	sent a bill for GST and brokerage to us.  We never even knew the
	package was in Canada, despite a correct address, correct names
	and telephone contacts on the waybill.  Threatened quite well
	if we didn"t pay.  A quick call to ABP confirmed the story and
	that they had the good back, though the UPS letter implied we 
	received the package.  All solved now, but just another reason
	to avoid UPS when moving stuff between the USA and Canada (so much
	fr the Free Trade Deal eh...)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 23:42:49 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Kodiak Heater Help

I'm a little puzzled about this Kodiak Heater which has been discussed lately.  I've had several 
Land Rovers over the years, and each has had a different heater.  I can recall the round Smith's 
heater, the flat rectangular (military) Smith's heater, the US made "cube heater",  the S-III 
Smith's  heater with the intake in the wing, the not quite original round *oyota Land Crusher 
heater, the Rover's North Mansfield heater, and an the Kodiak heater.  

This is where I am confused, the Kodiak I had in my S-IIA was mounted in the cabin on the the 
passenger's (right side) footwell and the intake was a 4 foot long flexible tube to the front 
grill.  It couldn't possibly mount in the engine compartment because the core and the blower were 
huge.  

So would someone please explain to me what the Kodiak heater with the intake in the wing is? Are 
there two types of Kodiak heater?  Does it mount like the S-III Smith's heater?  Is it better than 
the Smith's? (I know, dumb question).

The reason I'm asking is I have just spent last weekend installing one of those huge Kodiaks in my 
Lightweight, and I don't like how big it is in the footwell.  I guess I really shouldn't be 
complaining because it does work really well and pretty much elinates the need to replace that 
rotten weather stipping. 

Thanks,

Garret Scott, KB4QGN
'67 Air-Portable

scottgs@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Dec 1996 20:51:05 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: CB RADIO

Does anyone know a high Quality brand CB that will withstand the rigors of
camping and moderate off-road bumps.  I`ve heard the cobra brand do not
stand up well to any bumps or knocks.                John Cooper 11a

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 19 lines 798 [forwarded 51 whitespace 177]
 Output: lines 632 [content 371  forwarded 27 (cut  24) whitespace 166]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.