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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:21:35 -0500
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

Jim writes:
>  individiually.The EPA doesn't care how few vehicles will be imported.

We may be getting to the point of quibbles, but if two vehicles have the same
drivetrain and emission systems and the weight of each is within several test
weight classes of each other, then the heavier can be used to certify both.
So if a 2 door Disco was to be imported no further testing would be required.
Likewise, if the D90 has the same drivetrain and emission systems, then it
can be certified for emission purposes only as a Disco variant if the weight
is close enough. Hence the possible incentive for auto D90s. In some cases
variants require a test without the 50,000 mile durability cycle.

If a vehicle is to be imported which the importer can't claim to have the
same drivetrain and similar weight to a vehicle they have already certified,
then testing is required even if the quantity is one.

Safety certification is an entirely different issue.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 13:56:49 +0100
From: Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: AT in Land Rovers

I fitted a ZF 4-speed to my SIII a year or so ago. I have to say that
I had my doubts about it but thought I would give it a try as I was
offered the box at a very reasonable price. I did, however, put a
reserve on a manual box at the time, just in case.

I use my SIII for severe off-roading at off-road centres, trials
competitions and green roading, as well as on the road. All the
doubts I had were wiped away during the first competition. The
auto off-road and on-road is smoother, quieter and much more
flexible than a manual. Even those nasty rumours about the
lack of engine braking proved groundless, with SIII diffs in, the
gearing is such that when locked into first low box you have to
use the throttle to avoid locking the wheels up on severe
gradients.

I would NOT, however, recommend fitting the auto box onto the
2 1/4  engine.  The simplest conversion is to put in a V8 and a
complete Range Rover gearbox/transfer box. This should fit
relatively easily into a 109.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave White
'72 SIII  V8 auto, Range Rover Chassis
'89 Range Rover
Yorkshire Rover Owners Club
<http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 09:01:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Poachers!

In a message dated 96-12-13 20:39:42 EST, you write:

<< Wow!  Great excitement!  So, I have to ask -- what were the poachers
 poaching?  (And if you say poached eggs...)
  >>

These guys come out at dusk with heavy duty flashlights, shine them in the
deer's face which causes them to freeze in their tracks (sort of like
headlights I suppose) and then they shoot them.

For the record, I'm all for hunting and in particular I'm really for deer
hunting (large rats in many ways). I don't really care how an individual
chooses to do their hunting either (as long as they actually use what they
kill, not just for trophy).

BUT, we have our horses out at night frequently and when these yahoos get
tanked up and go out shooting, a chestnut or bay horse looks an awful lot
like a really big doe.  We actually allow many people to hunt off the deer on
our place but we like to talk with them first so they know where the horses
(and people) will be.

Oh, LR content:  my wife bought me new swivel hubs and assorted front axle
goodies for Christmas--who says Christmas is only for kids?

Nate (note I didn't say swivel balls)
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 09:27:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Modifications

In a message dated 96-12-13 22:12:28 EST, you write:

<<  if you're
 desparate to install Automatic transmissions, lockout hubs, homemade
 bumpers, snowplows, Ham Radios, CD players,  Volvo seats, Turbodiesels,
 Dual remote electric rearview mirrors, Chrome plated naked lady emblems
 on mudflaps, Lavalamps, or AK-47's in their Rovers, do so on a vehicle
 with no intrinsic collectability and FOR GOD'S SAKE KEEP IT OFF THE LIST
 AND STOP THESE D***ED FLAME WARS!!!	
 
 Oh, God, what did I just start....Mark >>

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't this list about sharing ideas about Rovers?  I
say if you don't want to read others opinions about modifications,  and in my
example of AT, I was specifically asking if anyone had had good luck with
such a modification not about its moral implications in Western Civilization,
then delete the message.  God knows I received some excellent info on this
particular modification which I would never have gotten any other way than on
the mailing list.

As a suggestion, I know a newsgroup where they don't talk about all these
pesky and annoying LR modifications:  

alt.aquaria

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 06:31:40 -0800
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Two Questions

Can anyone suggest an alternative to the green material (insulation) 
between the carpet and the floor on a D90 SW.  Because water always 
gets in these insulation mats are constantly soaked. And now with the 
cold weather they are frozen.  I am tired of taking them out to dry (or 
thaw).  Is there a waterproof alternative?  I would just throw them out 
but it seems that they do cut out some of the noise.  Question 2: 
Should I add an in-line fuse when I install a 12 V lamp through the 
trailer wire harness?

Thanks in advance
Lucas C.  

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 10:11:35 -0500
Subject: Help needed unsubscribing multiple subscriptions

I'm subscribed twice to the digest, once as Wdcockey@aol.com and once as
wdcockey@aol.com (difference is case of the first letter). I know how the two
subscriptions occurred. I want to unsubscribe both but majordomo won't let me
and returns a message:
>>>> unsubscribe lro-digest
**** unsubscribe: 'Wdcockey@aol.com' matches multiple list members.
**** FAILED.

Can Bill C or someone help me, or at least point me in the right direction.
BTW, I also tried appending the userid to the unsubscribe message and
recieved the same reply.

Thanks,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 09:30:22 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Two Questions

Lucas Andres Cascardo wrote:
> Can anyone suggest an alternative to the green material (insulation)
> between the carpet and the floor on a D90 SW.  Because water always
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Thanks in advance
> Lucas C.

I have been using the carpet from ther rear portion of old Pinto 
hatchbacks.  It is quite large and it can cover the whole of the rear of 
the 88" Land Rover tub and it can be made to fit the front area as well. 
 The stuff I have been using is black, but it comes in various colors.  
The wrecker told me that for $5.00 I could take all I could carry since 
he had to get the "fluff" out before the steel mill would take the cars 
for melting anyway.  In the back of mine I also use rubbber about 1/2" 
thick.  It is the type we use here on loading docks and in skating rinks 
where the players have to walk across the floor to get to the ice.  The 
skates don't cut it.  The biggest noise reduction came with the rubber 
installation.  I also put sound absorbing material under the hood using 
two strips of aluminum to hold it in place.  It again came from a vehicle 
at the wreckers.  The only drawback I have found with it is that when I 
go to the carwash the spray is so intense it often gets wet on the edges. 
 In normal use it is OK.  Finally I used the stick on sound absorbing 
panels from J.C. Whitney.  They were expensive but they are about 1 foot 
square and have a sticky back.  They seem to stop the oilcanning and 
resonant vibrations in the large areas of the doors in particular.  If I 
have the time next summer, I am going to take just the top foot of the 
station wagon roof off at the join and glue or spray a foam liner into 
the roof so I am cooler in summer, warmer in winter and have a bit more 
quiet when I am driving.  For the purests all this stuff can be removed 
with no trace but for creature comfort when I have to drive long 
distances or even around town to work, I want a vehicle to use not put in 
a museum.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 09:42:30 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: AT in Land Rovers

Dave White wrote:
> I fitted a ZF 4-speed to my SIII a year or so ago. I have to say that
> I had my doubts about it but thought I would give it a try as I was
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> <http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Congratulations to the Yorkshire Rover Owners Club on a great newsletter. 
 The pictures are great.  If Dixon looked as good as your editor perhaps 
we could get more members in the OVLR Club :-o  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Snorkel Installation
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:35:30 -0800

I'll be attempting to install the Mantec (camel trophy) snorkel to my Disco
this weekend. Installation looks fairly straight forward so logic dictates
no problems, but having done all the upgrades to my Disco my self (ARB
Bumper, OME Suspension etc.) I'm expecting something will not go as
planned. That aside I will post to the group the details and pitfalls of
the install when complete.

BTW The Mantec snorkel that I received is of a very high quality and has
exceptional engineering.

Gene
USS Disco
Rhino Gear
http://www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:51:14 -0800
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Re: Two Questions

You wrote: 
>Lucas Andres Cascardo wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>I have been using the carpet from ther rear portion of old Pinto 
>hatchbacks.  It is quite large and it can cover the whole of the rear 
of 
>the 88" Land Rover tub and it can be made to fit the front area as 
well. 
> The stuff I have been using is black, but it comes in various colors. 
 
Is this carpet or a black foam material?  The Pinto reference led me to 
recall a black foam insulator in an old Fiat I had.  I'll definately 
check it out.  Thanks.

Lucas C.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 08:09:02 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: foam insulation (was Two Questions)

At  9:30 AM 12/14/96 -0800, David Place wrote:
<big snip>
> If I
;have the time next summer, I am going to take just the top foot of the
>station wagon roof off at the join and glue or spray a foam liner into
>the roof so I am cooler in summer, warmer in winter and have a bit more
;quiet when I am driving.  For the purests all this stuff can be removed
>with no trace but for creature comfort when I have to drive long
;distances or even around town to work, I want a vehicle to use not put in
>a museum.  Dave VE4PN
;
I have not used the foam but over the years there has been occasional
mention of both panel and sprayon foam insulation.

What I remember is that since the Land Rover body is very flexable and
always flexing the foam cracks, and the parts move against one another.
The result is foam squeeks and foam dust.  The people talking about the
stuff seemed unhappy.

I'm currently using an insulation I got from my local hardware (iron
monger) store.  Its the plastic bubble wrap with aluminum bonded to each
side.  It uses dead air for insulation and has reflective sides.  I have
been applying it with contact cement. You can easily do multiple layers of
the stuff.  It's inexpensive, easy to work with will not sponge up water or
mildew.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 13:56:36 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Studs 'n' such

WRT Clayton Kirkwood's question on manifold studs, I believe they were used 
so as to provide more "wiggle room", or more 'depth of field' in fitment.  
With a bolt, you have a fairly narrow range before it bottoms out, so length 
must be chosen carefully, not always possible in the Third World.  (When 
fitting stainless bolts to mine, a few have been rather liberally shimmed 
with washers.)  A stud provides a range of adjustment double that of bolts.

Stainless is the way to go.  A while back, I tried to replace all with 
*bronze* studs (not brass), but these are unavailable, even in a 
seaport/military town like Norfolk with lots of sources.

As to gaskets and such, I've used both the single fibre gasket for the 
intake/exhaust ports as well as the metal ones for the intakes only (that's 
how the Series III's were originally fitted).  I always thought that the 
fibre one was superior, but I kept getting exhaust leaks when they blew out. 
The secret (as giiven to me by Bruce of DAP) is *not* to overtighten to 
fixings.  If you tighten the manifold *too* much, it actually makes it 
*more* prone to leak.  I also tighten the manifold bolts, then tighten the 
join between the intake and exhaust manifolds.  And "Helicoil" stainless 
steel thread inserts work wonders on the downpipe connections.

WRT removing stuck studs, Craftsman (and I assume Snap-On) makes a stud 
extractor tool.  Grips onto the side of the stud w/o damage.  Use it with a 
1/2" drive ratchet.  As Mr. Natural says, "The right tool for the right job" 
I used it to remove head bolts from a marine engine (the bottom ends of 
which were in the salt water cooling jacket providing *excellent* corrosion 
possibilities).  Most could be reused after 15 years.
Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 08:53:22 -1000
From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re:  Bushwacker, what is it?

>What is the bushwhacker kit?  Is it a tool to remove the rubber suspension
bushings?  I have changed the bushes with a hacksaw and cold chisel and find
it a most rewarding and satisfying experience, like hitting your head on a
concrete floor.  

If it is a bushing removal tool, I and other enquiring minds would
undoubtedly like to know all about it.  

I have been on the net for about six months and this is the first I have
heard of this, so excuse me if I am getting in on the end of something that
has been thrashed before I found you guys.  Anybody have any comments on FW
Hubs.

Aloha Peter Ogilvie
1970 88
1965 109 pickup

>That article on the bushings was rather interesting.  Has anyone out there
>had experience with  the bushwacker tool?  Last set I did I had to resort
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Jeremy
>------------------------------

------------------------------

From: RovingNut@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:06:12 -0500
Subject: Tires 4 Sale

Hi there, I'm sorry if this is an inappropriate use of the list, but I'm home
from college for a very short time and my parents have threatened me with
disinheritance unless I get rid of the Rover wheels and tires which are
consuming all the space in the greenhouse.

There are five 16"x8" (I believe they're 8") wheels with oversize Armstrong
off-road tires and five 16"x8" (Again, I'm pretty sure they're 8") with large
freeway tires, great for lots of road travel regarding noise and mileage.

I live in a small town near Berkeley, CA and would be willing to sell them
for a very reasonable price, as my mother is growing increasingly distraught
at competing with a bunch of tires for space to plant petunias......

If interested, please e-mail me directly or give me a call at (510) 254-3115.

Happy holidays,
Brad

Bradford Davis
(510) 254-3115
(Rovingnut@aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:28:48 -0500
From: Jeff Berry <jaberry@i2020.net>
Subject: Re: Europarts

Dave,

I ordered a few gas hoses and gas tank outriggers from Europarts.  I
spoke to Mohammed, seems like a nice chap, but very unorganized.  It
took over a month to receive my parts due to lost orders, mis-shipments
and who know what else.  But he did give me all the parts for free for
my inconvenience. So you cant beat that. If you are patient and
persistent, go for it.

-- 
***Jeff Berry, Richmond, VA for 2 more days----jaberry@i2020.net
Go Sun Devils, Rose Bowl bound
* '94 D90 	
* '94 FLSF

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:37:53 -0500
Subject: Need upholstery patterns

I have found a source of leather suitable for recovering my seat cushions in
the s3. The fellow quoted me $1.50us per square foot. 
Now all I need are paper patterns. Can anybody help?
Thanks!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re0chipping the EFI Computer
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 07:40:00 EST

Sean,

Was it you who was after info on re-chipping the EFI computer?

I have found the advert for the compny in Oz that does new chips.  They are 
called Power Chip and the RR and the Discovery are listed.  I haven't looked 
at their web site but here its is:

http://www.powerchip.com.au

email :  pwrchip@ozemail.com.au

>From the advert it appears that they cost around A$450 (US$355) but that 
includes Aust tax of 22% (this was the *normal* price shown for one 
particular model that was on special for A$360).  Overseas sales are tax 
exempt (that applies to differentials and exhaust head pipes, et al as 
well.)   Just make sure, if you order directly from Australia, that you 
remind the company selling the goods. If they aren;t experienced in overseas 
sales, they will still include the sales tax.  I found this out when I lived 
on Norfolk Island.

 BTW, did you chase up the Haltech computer info from their office in Texas?

Usual disclaimers.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Snorkel Installation
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 12:39:42 -0800

I'll be attempting to install the Mantec (camel trophy) snorkel to my Disco
this weekend. Installation looks fairly straight forward so logic dictates
no problems, but having done all the upgrades to my Disco my self (ARB
Bumper, OME Suspension etc.) I'm expecting something will not go as
planned. That aside I will post to the group the details and pitfalls of
the install when complete.

BTW The Mantec snorkel that I received is of a very high quality and has
exceptional engineering.

Gene
USS Disco
Rhino Gear
http://www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Big Lots Toys
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 20:53:36 +0000

We have Big Lots (Odd Lots) stores here in Portsmouth, on the chance that
they would have Land-Rover D-90 SW models here. I went shopping today and
they had three left, I now have three models myself. They are not bad,metal
nice detail and paint and just $4.99 + tax. They are 1//32 scale with rubber
tires.
I have gotten several good deals there in the past ie Hammerite paint
$7.97/gal. $2.94/qt lots of colors. Wet or dry sand paper etc. A good place
to check before buying.

There was/is another Land-Rover program on ESPN. Please what is the date? I
think it is in Dec. but I don't have the date.
Keep On (Land-Rover) Truckin'
Jim Wolf 1966 sIIa 109 sw Vicky
Portsmouth, VA USA
>.

------------------------------

From: Robert_Kelly@notes.pw.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 17:09:56 EST
Subject: RE:Contact

Hello to my fellow LR Owners,

I'm a recent LR owner (my first) 66, sIIa, 88 with a Perkins 4209. I thought 
I'd warn you all that due to my virgin status that I'll be asking many question 
in the very near future. Also I'd like to get together with any of you all if 
your in my area, or I can travel to yours. Thanks in advance for your help and 
advice.

Bob Kelly
McLean, VA
703 741 2208

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 14:49:10 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Engine conversions

On Thu, 12 Dec 1996, William L. Leacock wrote:

> Recently I acquired the parts to make an 88 ( with a lot of work )
>  What are the implications of fitting a GM engine ?  say the 2.8 or 3.1
> litre V6 ?  is there a conversion available ? where ? how much ? what are
> the benefits ? disadvantages etc ?

Hi Bill,

The normal conversion for Series LRs to and American engine is the Chevy
inline 4 or 6.  I'm sure you've seen some of the discussions.  The Ford
V-6 conversion so popular in the UK hasn't really been a factor here, but
I've been wondering about getting a conversion kit if one is available for
the Ford V-6 engines in use here.  Several people have indicated that we
have the German designed (built?) version.  Cologne vs Essex, or so I've
heard.

In anycase, the Chevy inline 4/6 has a conversion kit available from
Scotty Howat here in California.  I can get more info if you want to
pursue this option. 

Last summer I bought a Dormobile in England.  It has the European 2.6
litre in it, that will have to be replaced sooner or later.  I'm leaning
toward the Chevy 6, but have been thinking that a Turner rebuilt might be
worth looking into.

One other thing.  Some time ago you posted a detailed discussion on the
UK number plate system in response to a query I made.  I think I still
have it, and have been thinking about editing it for the LROA "Aluminum
Workhorse"  as a note from the Internet.  Do you have any objection to
this?  I'll run it past you for comment and any additional detail you want
to add.  I think some stuff came up recently on the geographic aspects
that would be interesting to discuss.

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1969 LR Dormobile- "Bertha"   *
              * Davis, California       | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 16:41:54 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Modifications

The final word on modifications is,"He(she) who owns title to a vehicle
gets to say what, if anything, is done to it." The rest of us don't have to
like it, but ultimately, we'll just have to choke it down.

Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:18:35 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

list
Mike Johnson N7WBO
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:15:02 -0500
Subject: 3.5 L V8 Carb to Fuelie

Projection Project Update.  Greetings to the Lists. I am posting to both
lists as I feel (IMHO) that the modifications I made will interest anyone
with a carbed Rover V-8 who  wants an improved set up.
As you may remember I decided to change the induction system on my 83 RR from
dual Strombergs to anything else. The most obvious choice would  have been
new SUs, but the cost of these have hit the ceiling of late, and my secondary
objective was to make changes that will stand up to the alcohol tainted syn
fuels likely to be used to meet EPA mandates in my area (Greater Cleveland
,Ohio), AND would allow me to pass my next emissions check. This secondary
goal also eliminates the ol' standard i.e. the 390 CFM Holley. This leads to
the use of fuel injection. The OME fuel injection could have been an option,
but the cost of replacement parts, lack of tunability, and complexity ruled
it out. I decided to use Holley's analog 2 barrel throttle body injection
system or "Projection" as it is called (Holley part #502-2 for square bore
manifolds). Since this requires a four barrel carb intake manifold an
Edelbrock Performer manifold # 2198 was purchased and installed. Heres a
break down of the parts cost just for the induction system:
Projection Kit #502-2:   $544; Performer manifold   :    $198 ;Holley O2
Sensor Kit:    $194; Return line and fittings:  +$25 ; Gaskets and hoses :
about $50; 14" Edelbrock air cleaner: $22.
The projection kit comes with all wiring, a throttle body, misc. parts,
adaptor plates, ECU, georotor fuel pump and filters. This kit is normally
"open loop" and is supposed to be "stand alone". But I found that the O2 kit
is  a good idea for a daily driver. It converts the Projection to a "closed
loop " system for all throttle opens less than 2/3 open. The O2 sensor was
installed into the existing stainless , non catalytic exhaust system in the
large pie immediately ahead of the first muffler box. As this is also near
the transmission brake there is plenty of room to install the sensor. The O2
kit  has a black box with an dinky LED that tells you when you have dialed in
the correct mixture setting on the ECU. The O2 sensor automajiccally adjusts
the ECU for temp and altitude chages.

I had already purchased replacement cam and lifters but had never installed
them, so while the manifold was off it seemed logical to also to do the cam.
Well, one thing leads to another and it was decided to also do a host of jobs
which I knew needed doing sooner or later, including removing the engine,
installing new timing gear, main bearings, replace leaky rear main seal,
replace clutch and throw out bearing, replace primary shaft bearing and seals
on the LT-95 (which can be done in situ after engine and bell housing are
removed), as well as transfer case front output shaft bearing and seals. This
also entailed removing the floor which lead to cleaning and painting the
frame rails. Since the engine was out the leaky PAS box was removed and
rebuilt (made sense at that point). Hmm, that steering column shaft rubber
looks bad (which means replace whole lower column), as do the drop arm and
tie rod ends. The cost of these items on this side of the pond is heart
stopping. Frantic calls to Famous Four ensued and they came to my rescue at
very affordable cost. Thanks Martin Stebbing! An 80 Amp Delco alternator was
installed ( the Projection and O2 sensor pull about 15 amps), as was a Crane
XR-700 optical trigger ignition system.

Well, I am happy to report that the installation was as success. I will
report back from time to time about running economy, problems, etc. If anyone
is interested in more details on the conversion please drop me a line.
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: BSROA Holiday Party
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 00:19:23 -0500

Addendum to previous posting:

Cost per person is $35.00 - this covers all food and DJ. Catered by =
AMANO, Inc. - given several stars by BOSTON MAGAZINE, AMANO is owned by =
Club member Bill Mariano and his wife Elyse. They have been kind enough =
to host the gig this year at way below their normal minimum fee.

Elyse told me that they would have the "BIG BUFFET" (i.e. - nonstop =
food) and it would consist of "COOL, FUNKY, FOOD" Sounds great to us.

BYOB for alcohol. Sodas no charge.

RSVP IMMEDIATELY to Club line at 617-545-4743. Send Checks payable to =
BSROA to:

BSROA
POB 342
North Scituate, MA 02060

Reminder that date is Saturday, JAN 4th, 7-10 PM. Yankee Trader event =
will be held as well as Club videos. Each attendee requested to bring a =
gift (max $10.00) for Yankee Trader.

Cheers
Jim

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 02:00:09 PST
Subject: Suffering the Clutch Blues

G’day all,

My clutch was giving me grief earlier in the week in that it refused to
work when I stomped on the peddle. Drove it for two days till I had time
to investigate and when I started to poke around I found the slave
cylinder had snuffed it. No big deal right? Off with the old, on with
the spare (used) and all would be well..., or so I thought.

After bleeding the bleedin’ system I once again have a nice firm peddle
and a clutch that does it’s thing. I also got something I didn’t bargain
for. It is now making a very nasty metal on metal grinding sound and I
don’t know what it could be.

The sound is coming from the bellhousing. When I select first and ease
out the clutch, I hear this rubbing, grating sound as it starts to
engage, but as I start to pull away and the clutch is fully engaged, the
sound disappears. When I let the clutch out in each gear, first through
fourth and reverse while the vehicle is stopped, the noise is present
each time but is not heard when gear changes are made while moving. I
guess at that point the engine and gearbox are both spinning away so
there is no real rubbing of clutch and flywheel between gear changes.
Sitting at idle in neutral, or in gear with clutch peddle depressed,
there is no noise. What he heck is going on? I did nothing but change
the slave cylinder and don’t think I abused it by making clutch-less
shifts there for a couple of days. I’ve done this before with no
problems.

BTW, the clutch would occasionally work after the initial problem
started but I did not hear this noise until after the work was done on
the hydraulics. Why would it just start doing that out of the blue?
What’s up with that?

This clutch plate is only a little over two years old and I don’t
consider myself to be hard on clutches. I changed it the last time the
engine was out as a matter of course and that clutch, with about five
years service at the time, is now happily spinning away in a friends 109
diesel.

Anybody out there have any ideas what could be going on down under my
floor boards. I've asked some of my rover friends here in Toronto but
no one can figure out what the problem might be. It has me worried and I
fear there may be a engine/gearbox separation in my future, but just
maybe...???

Thanks for your help.

Rover and out.

Brett
brstore@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 09:46:48 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Bushwacker, what is it?

Faye Ogilvie wrote:
>  Anybody have any comments on FW Hubs.

                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
              In the interests of global peace
              I shall remain absolutely silent!

> Aloha Peter Ogilvie
> 1970 88
> 1965 109 pickup

Sorry Peter, actually we all have lots of comments both for and against
but the last time same were aired we nearly restarted the Cold War.
Suffice to say some people think they're great, others wouldn't touch
them. To each his own.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 12:19:46 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Bushwacker, what is it?

Paul Oxley wrote:
> Faye Ogilvie wrote:
> >  Anybody have any comments on FW Hubs.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Paul Oxley
> http://www.adventures.co.za

Hi Faye - I can only echo Peter and Pauls sentiments - a few weeks ago,
i was niaive enough to ask the same question, and it resulted in a
collossal discussion with high tempers on both sides of the atlantic. I
was surprised to see how much heat this discussion generated!

Paul Oxley's reply is a excellent, if short, resume of the arguments! He
forgot to say that the most original argument last time for the use of
fwh was as a theft prevention device, when fitted on all four wheels.

Similar subjects to also avoid are - dormobile conversion ethics,
advertising on the net, modifications to rare rovers, and splitting the
list. Minor points of discussion like politics, religion, sex,
philosophy and nuclear physics are ok.

(Just joking)

welcome to the list! Your question was valid - I asked it for the same
reason!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

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