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Subject: Re: Magazines
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 13:19:09 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

Addresses for subscriptions to UK magazines;

Land Rover Owner International
LRO Subscriptions Mail Order Ltd
Anglian House, Chapel Lane, Botesdale, Diss, Norfolk, IP22 1DT, UK
Telephone +44 (0)1379 890056
USA and Canada yearly rate is 59 quid (approx 97 US)

Land Rover World
Subscription Dept, Hainault Road, Little Heath, Romford, Essex, RM6 =
5NP, UK
Telephone: +44 (0)181 597 7335
Overseas Rate =A342 quid (approx 70 US)

they both have more expensive air-mail rates

LROI have a distributor in USA, I dont have their details, I think =
you have to get LRW direct from UK or in shops stateside (when its =
not being censored that is)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 08:29:14 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Truck cap/top

At 21:35 96-12-11 -0500, David wrote:

schnip

 Michel also comments
>about cab roofs being beat up. Interesting that they are steel and seem to
>suffer more than SW or hardtop roofs.

I think that the cab is made out of aluminium (where's my magnet again). It
suffers from dents and bumps cos it is a solid as a beer can, while the SW
or hardtop roofs, with the "ridges" every 10 inches or so are much stiffer.
I do prefer the Ser I truck cab since it looks like a chopped down HT and
much more solid. Most of the Cabs that you find here are from 109's. 3 out
of the 4 that I have did. It is just too bad that its design doesn't allow
it to keep his shape for as long as the others do...

Salutations, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 08:39:22 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com
Subject: The Major is ill

Sorry, Huub. Your diesel smoking made me think of the Patch, which we use
here in the U S of A to help people stop smoking. What do they call it over
there?

Anyway, the Major seems to have lost most of the past three days worth of
correspondence.

|---------------------------------------------
|        Ned Heite
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
|                          ---  Andrei Gromyko
|----------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 9:28:16 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: snow plows?

Just about any plow will fit, but the mounting hardware may not be an 
off-the-shelf item for the manufacturer. The larger firms such as Meyer 
and Wolfcraft will be able to help you with your particular installation, 
as they have toll-free numbers you can call for custom attachment.
If you buy a used plow, be sure to bring your measuring tape along to see 
that it will be able to fit the frame rails. Usually it's all just a 
matter of the right sized bolts and maybe some angle iron.
You should also be sure your electrical system is up to the task of 
operating the hydraulic pump/winch motor or whatever is used for raising 
and lowering the blade, as well as the extra lights. You may need a 
bigger alternator.

It's also handy to have a set of chains for the rear tires at least.
Don't forget to check with your local DMV to find out if you must have 
any special warning devices. Around here, you have to have an amber 
strobe/flasher on your roof.

I don't know if they're still offering, but I heard that DC was giving a 
$1000 signing bonus to anyone with a plow. Not that their checks are any 
good or anything, but it shows how desperate Mayor-for-Life Marion Barry 
can be when faced with another politically embarrassing winter storm (he 
was in the Caribbean during the worst blizzard in 20 years).

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Subject: With respect to your recent communications.
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:48:46 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

Steve,

If you did send, or meant to send, only one test message, then apologies for
the apparently 'radical' action of being unsubscribed.

You should know that somewhere along the way, your test message was replicated
three times (itchy return/mouse button finger ? evil intermediate mailer ?),
the cause is not particularly my concern, maintaining the quality of the
list is.  As you may be able to appreciate, managing a half dozen mailing
lists with a couple thousand of subscribers requires some work, part of which
I see as keeping the signal to noise ratio up.

You may, of course, re-subscribe to the list, as there is nothing to prevent
you from doing so.

With regard to the fifth message, you should be forewarned that creating
'a major influx of junk' can have reprecussions you may want to think about.
I don't know how SKY.Net is, but service providers usually have some means
of dropping customers who choose to cause trouble, something you might want
to consider before carrying out or making threats in the future.  Though
I don't wish to make a complaint about your behaviour at this time, I've
copied the postmaster at SKY.Net in case you are determined to persue
an unfriendly course of action.

    Sincerely
          Bill Caloccia 

>From my NIC who-is registration:

Caloccia, William P. (WPC)              caloccia@OPENMARKET.COM
   Open Market, Inc.
   245 First Street
   Cambridge, MA 02142

--- Message 5 ------

Your message of Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:10:23 -0300, Message-Id: <v02130500aed5a638623b@[205.242.50.103]>
>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: being a jerk

If you have un subscribed me from ANYTHING, for my one test message, you
may prepare yourself for a major influx of junk. ASSHOLE.
    
Steve Paustian
Pres.  Flatland Rover Society
    

---- Message 4 ------

Your message of Thu, 12 Dec 1996 00:39:13 -0300,  Message-Id: <v02130500aed52ec34d4e@[205.242.50.155]>
>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: Re: you have been unsubscirbed from all rover lists for repeated

>test messages
say what?

Steve Paustian
Pres.  Flatland Rover Society

---- Message 3 ------

>Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 08:44:19 -0300
>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: testing 123

>no new mail???  Hello?

>Steve Paustian

---- Message 2 ------

>Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 08:44:26 -0300
>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: testing 123

>no new mail???  Hello?

>Steve Paustian

---- Message 1 ------

>Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 08:44:22 -0300
>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: testing 123

>no new mail???  Hello?

>Steve Paustian

    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:46:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: snow plows?

On Wed, 11 Dec 1996, Michael Roberts wrote:

> 	Does anyone have a snow plow set up on their machines?  I am 
> looking for a set up to go on a Series IIA 109" SW.  Any suggestions?  
> Brand names?  Locations?

	Yes.  Brand names etc?  All worn/rusted off.  Rigs date from
	the 1960's and have been either painted  a couple dozen times
	or worn off.  For the most part it is a straight forward
	set-up.  The only unique bit is the lower harness that bolts onto
	the front springs and then the frame rails in front of the 
	bulkhead supports.  (I can think of 4-5 LR,s with them up here.
	Hmmm, a III 88, IIA 109 pu, 109 sw, 107 pu, 86" ht)

 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:27:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: snow plows?

On Thu, 12 Dec 1996, Adams, Bill wrote:

> You should also be sure your electrical system is up to the task of 
> operating the hydraulic pump/winch motor or whatever is used for raising 
> and lowering the blade, as well as the extra lights. You may need a 
> bigger alternator.

	Mine runs off a hydraulic pump mounded above the generator.  Genny
	has a double pully on it to run the hydraulic pump.  Reservoir
	sits inside the engine bay, bolted to the wing.  The earth pig
	has a similar set-up, but the reservoir is 4 inch square tubing, 
	vertically welded to a modified bumper (bumper has a 3 point
	hitch so it can carry a log splitter like a battering ram into 
	the woods for firewood production.  Can attest that Saabs
	have very good side impact protection...  Tried it out on the
	wheelless version used for the Saab-pull <tm> from a few years back)
	Actually, this year we will be trying an electrically operated
	pump as an experiment.  Lower harness on the other is bent (ouch!)

> It's also handy to have a set of chains for the rear tires at least.

	Couple bags of cement (or in my case the other year, an engine 
	and a pair of gearboxes)

> Don't forget to check with your local DMV to find out if you must have 
> any special warning devices. Around here, you have to have an amber 
> strobe/flasher on your roof.

	Not here, but there is talk of requiring blue ones.

> I don't know if they're still offering, but I heard that DC was giving a 
> $1000 signing bonus to anyone with a plow. Not that their checks are any 

	No fair!

> good or anything, but it shows how desperate Mayor-for-Life Marion Barry 
> can be when faced with another politically embarrassing winter storm (he 
> was in the Caribbean during the worst blizzard in 20 years).

	This the one where the LRNA phones were quiet, a message on the
	answering machine saying that the offices were closed because of 
	the bad weather?  Thought they would drive their own rigs...

	Rgds,

	PS, othe rbits of advice.  If you have a plough mounted, don't use
	the LR as a daily driver.  Leave it parked with the plough on the
	ground.  Otherwsie your front end will suffer faster.  Ploughing
	is rather hard on these vehicles.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:31:39 -0500
From: Olafur =?iso-8859-1?Q?=C1g=FAst?= Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Fuel economy!!

Hi
Here is one query that I=B4m sure nearly everyone has had to deal with: -=
 Fuel
economy - I=B4m getting a little frustrated over my =B466 S2a=B4s petrol
consumption - It is fitted with the original Solex carb. - Any of you guys
must have some magical solution to this ever annoying problem!! - No really
- If any of you have any suggestion - please let me know!! - The only thing
I=B4ve heard is to switch the Solex with a Zenith - but how efficient is
that?? - probably not enough!!

Thanx
        Olafur Agust  (olafura@hi.hi.is)
-------
=D3lafur =C1g=FAst Axelsson    olafura@rhi.hi.is  =
 http://www.rhi.hi.is/~olafura

"Life!! - Lothe it or ignore it - you cant like it!!!"     
					Marvin the depressed robot

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:40:33 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Loaners

     If a loaner was part of your purchase, it must be provided.  Seems to 
     be part of the purchase "contract" to me.  For warranty work, the 
     "contract" seemingly exists between LRNA (and hence all dealers) and 
     the purchaser.  For non-warranty work, like scheduled maintenance, I 
     believe the "contract" exists only between specific dealer and the 
     purchaser.  (I found that getting my 7500-mile service from a dealer 
     other than the one from which I bought the vehicle did not entitle me 
     to a loaner, though I did get one after a contest of attitudes.)  In 
     either case, what you were promised as part of your purchase *cannot* 
     be unilaterally undone by only one of the parties involved, the 
     dealer.  After all, the purchaser cannot decide on his own that from 
     now on, the purchase includes a loaner on demand for any or no reason. 
      See the legal symmetry?  (Warning: do not look for legal symmetry 
     when dealing with government -- it's not the same!)  
     
     The above are solely the *opinion* of myself..........
     
     Hank 

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Tracking in our Trucks
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 15:46:02 GMT

Well, got my new tyres, and in the process had my steering checked and
tightened. The Land Rover place I went to, didn't do tracking, so I had that
done at a local garage that has done stuff for me before.

My original tyres wore very quickly - mainly at the front, hance I thought
tracking was a problem. I'd assumed they were new on, when I bought
Alice (in March), but it would seem they've been on for longer (the
guy who changed them, had trouble with the tubes - they stick or something?).
They were also remoulds with an open tread.

Anyway, this is the background to me having my tracking checked. The garage
refused to do anything - they found the tracking to be 0.33 when it should
be 0.25 - not sure what these numbers mean, but I'll check them up when
I get back home. If the tracking is "good enough" as the garage said, could
the uneven wear (ie. heavy wear at the front) [2 bald tyres, 3 getting that
way in 10 months, 6000 miles or so?] be explained by a combination of 
remoulds (of uncertain age) and play in the steering? Could it be that a
tracking error was "accidently on purpose" removed when the steering was
checked and the box tightened?

The garage's advice (Leyland/Uniparts/Lucas independant for what it counts)
advised that I drive around for 1000 miles or so, and see what wear I
get. If the front is still wearing, then to return...
(I'll be doing near 1000 miles over Christmas I think).

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR  - quiet tyres and fair steering)

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:51:10 -0600
Subject: re: wheel colors...

David Cockey writes...

> From a circa 1966 sales brochure:
> Bronze green body = bronze green wheels
> Red body = red wheels

Interesting. Is this a NA sales brochure? My red '66 (88 SW) had/has   
limestone wheels. Maybe it was different for other export markets (red   
being an export color only, if I recall correctly). I could see red   
wheels on some type of emergency vehicle... Or were the body colored   
wheels an option?

> The same brochure lists red interior trim & seats as an option

Ug! God, imagine if I had red wheels and red trim, too. Eeeeek!

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Tracking in our Trucks
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 16:13:00 PST

If the wear is even across the tyre then it probably isn't a tracking 
problem. Are you running in 4WD? this eats front tyres, the tyres on my 110 
have worn/compressed down 3mm in 4000 miles. This could be partly due to a 
rather aggressive tread pattern. When I bought the 110 the rear tyres had 
7mm front had 5mm, front were replaced 4000 miles ago (having reached legal 
min.) while rear still have 5mm.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:18:11 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: TDI Blues (Told Ya So!)

>Can anyone please help??
>I took delivery of my brand new Discovery TDi ES Auto in April, I was
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>hill without dropping down to 90-100 km/h, unless one has a long run at
>the hill and start the climb at about 140km/h.

        This comment is not intended as a dig at the unhappy new owner but
I have often been surprised by the excited babble about the TDis. It's a
great engine but it can't compete with a V8 in the power arena. It won't go
down the road, climb hills or tow as well as a late generation V8. I think
it can stand up pretty well to the early V8s in this area and as far as
fuel economy goes, the V8 is so far out of the TDi's ballbark, it's
practically in another space-time continuuum.
        Most of the comments come from people who have not driven a TD any
distance or lived with one day to day. I drive a pair of diesels daily (not
TDis) and both are big displacement V8s, one with a turbo. They can't
compete in acceleration with a big gas V8 and only the turbo unit is the
equal in towing or hill climbing, owing most of this to it's large
displacement. The best part is fuel economy. The big turbo diesel delivers
double digit mileage with an 18,000 pound load. The non-turbo unit (in a
lightweight chassis with no load & 3.08 gears), delivers 24.5mpg (US) on
the highway (75mph) and 18-20 in town. This is about 40% better than an
equivalent sized gas V8.
        So, Tdis and diesels in general are not for everyone. Nobody can
argue your diesel choice if it works for you or you like 'em enough to put
up with their downsides.
        By the way, Disco diesel sufferer, are you running this unit at any
altitude? They will blow black smoke if they are calibrated for low
altitude. If this is not an altitude issue, I'm surprised they couldn't
eliminate most of the objectionable smoke. It's a fairly simple matter (for
those with the tools and knowledge) to crank back the fuel feed a bit. You
might try another dealer or shop with more diesel expertise. You should be
gettting at least 30-40% better milage than a V* and it should pull hills
reasonably well. Let us know!

Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: re: red trim
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 16:20:00 PST

I saw a 109 a couple of years back with red trim and seats. This was a 
maroon SW; the previous owner had also carpeted it in red as well. It was 
hideous!

I believe it had limestone wheels though.

Scott Davies, 'British Telecom Grey' 110
 ----------

> The same brochure lists red interior trim & seats as an option

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:36:37 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: re: red trim

A dormobile that used to be around here had red trim. The vehicle was also
red, with two-tone wheels, limestone and rust.

I belive Lanny from Rovers North imported it to the US this summer.

Yes, it was ugly.

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:48:14 -0500
Subject: AT in Series LR's

Hi all, 

I sent this last week, but appears to have been eaten in the internet:

Has anyone had success with installing an automatic transmission in their LR?
Just curious for the time being but if Solihull can put AT in a D90, why
can't I put AT in a 109?  My wife would love to drive a 109 but would much
rather have an AT for the school carpool lines and such.

Any thoughts?

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 11:56:33 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Win a 1997 Disco!!!!

     The Nature Company/Discovery Channel are sponsoring a contest:
     
     The grand prize? Why a Discovery of Course!
     
     The entry form shows a 1997 Disco with wraparound bull barr and Safety 
     Devices roof rack...
     The contest is open to US residents only, who are licensed drivers 
     over 18. to enter pick up a form at the Nature Company, or on a 3"x5" 
     plain piece of paper(?), hand print your name, age, address, city, 
     state, and zip code. Mail to: The Great Doscovery Channel Giveaway,
     PO Box 916, Newark NY 14513-0916. One entry per person must be 
     received by 12/31/96
     
     Lets try to get some one on the list behid the wheel of this free 
     Disco!
     
     WooHoo!
     
     Dave B.
     If I win, it'll mainly be a trail beater...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 12:03:58 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: ROver Yonder...

     
>>I've got the same problem with my S3, any thoughts?  

a can of gas and a match...

>>Dave what tyres are you going to put on those skiny 16" wheels, I'd 
like to put those same wheels on my 88, but I haven't found a good tire 
with lots of plys and lots of bite (my 88 sees lots of dirt, mud, rock, 
etc.)
     
     7.50x16 bias ply...traction tread...they're all basically the same. 
     These are a good year tyre that supposedly is used by the MOD...and 
     they are a bit worn butstill got some miles on em... previously used 
     very worn tires of the same size, the ones that came with the 
     wheels... they did REALLy well, considering they had the same amount 
     of tread as your average racing slick. No problems with the larger 
     tire on the "skinny" rim. SOme prefer a 6.5 or 7.00 x 16. I like the 
     ground clearance of the 7.50. They do bog the motor a bit though...
     
     Later
     
     Dave B.

------------------------------

From: waho@entergy.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 11:19:00 CST
Subject: Re: Fwd: American Finalists Selected for 1997 Camel Trophy A

     please delete me from your mailing list,  Thank you, Wayne Aho

> Subject: Fwd: American Finalists Selected for 1997 Camel Trophy Adven
> Author:  Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net at ~~CC3-LA-EC-SMTP-LINK
> From: AOLNewsProfiles@aol.net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 165 lines)]
> To edit your profile, go to keyword NewsProfiles. 
> For all of today's news, go to keyword News.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:51:01 -0500
Subject: Re: American Finalists Selected for 1997 Camel Trophy A

In a message dated 96-12-12 12:43:28 EST, you write:

      please delete me from your mailing list,  Thank you, Wayne Aho
 
 ______________________________ Reply Separator  >>

Hope it wasn't something I wrote!  : )
Nate

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:02:35 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com>
Subject: manifold destiny OR what a stud

I am in the process of removing part of the exhaust system on my 59 SII 88
because of a noxious leak while driving around. I can't exactly tell where
the leak is coming from, but as I checked the bolts on the ex. manifold I
found them to be loose. It turns out that they are actually studs (no
comments!!!). Q1: Why are studs used instead of bolts? Q2: When I remove the
nuts, the stud usually comes out instead because of rust, corrosion or the
clampdown has rubbed the threads down. Where can one normally get
replacements and is it better to get bolts at this point? Q3: The stud under
the exhaust pipe nearest the passenger compartment (bulkhead??) is corroded
to the nut; the exhaust pipe curves out into the way of the nut/stud coming
off. How do I actually get this out? Air chisel, nut cracker? And then how
do I get the stud the rest of the way out? Will I have to retap the hole?

I also have to disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold which has a
three bolt pattern connection. These too are corroded but loose enough to
allow slop in the connection. How do I break these apart?

As I removed most of the studs/nuts I was able to move the exhaust manifold
enough to easily pull out a broken down chunk of seal from the front-most
cylinder. It also had some oil seepage around it. I guess this where some
exhaust leakage was coming from. True?

Obviously a bunch of newbie engine teardown Q's. Where's Taylor when you
need him????? :>)

Thanks for the answers...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:14:12 -0600
From: Joel Guerra <guerra@mail.teamcmi.com>
Subject: Re: manifold destiny OR what a stud

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> I am in the process of removing part of the exhaust system on my 59 SII 88
> because of a noxious leak while driving around. I can't exactly tell where
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> Obviously a bunch of newbie engine teardown Q's. Where's Taylor when you
> need him????? :>)
> Thanks for the answers...

I don't know why they use studs, but all my old vw's had 'em.  Use an
extractor to get them out.  Put in new studs and buy copper exhaust nuts
(I think they were copper), as they will not rust, and make future
removals quick and easy. :-)

Joel

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:15:54 -0500
Subject: Re: manifold destiny OR what a stud

In a message dated 96-12-12 13:07:04 EST, you write:

<< Q3: The stud under
 the exhaust pipe nearest the passenger compartment (bulkhead??) is corroded
 to the nut; the exhaust pipe curves out into the way of the nut/stud coming
 off. How do I actually get this out? Air chisel, nut cracker? And then how
 do I get the stud the rest of the way out? Will I have to retap the hole? >>

Man, you are dealing with my least favorite-and I mean worse than the
transmission brake- part of a vehicle.  I have had more aggravation here than
anywhere else.  I would be extremely careful on how you try to extract that
bolt! I would get the best exposure possible (remove front pipe and probably
the wing) and then would douse it extensively with liquid wrench (WD-40,
etc).  Finally, I would file a couple of flat spots on it and apply one of
those new vise-grips (for stripped nuts) absolutely perpendicular to the bolt
and slowly (with as long of lever arm as possible) unscrew it.  I have bodged
up exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds and threads in the block in this
particular area  and it's not fun.

Good Luck

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:25:09 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Tire Question...

I have a swb 11a with 15 inch rims and would like to purchase a tall snow or
all weather tire that could also be used for easy to moderate off-road
situations.  The taller the better, I think, to help with my highway speed.
I will be traveling to snow for some cross-country skiing this season.  If
anyone can give some advice on suitable sizes and brands I'd be thankful.
Thank-you,  John Cooper 69 swb 11a

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:00:48 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: manifold destiny OR what a stud

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 96-12-12 13:07:04 EST, you write:
> << Q3: The stud under
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Nate
> NADdMD@aol.com
I can only agree with Nate here, this problem is one I know all too well
from both my series III's and my tractor - if the studs break at just
the wrong point, you end up changing an otherwise perfect manifold.

Do everything you can to avoid that! If you dont fancy pulling the front
wiong off, and if your exhaust tube (the first tube from the manifold)
is in need of replacement anyway, you could cut the tube, then remove
the manifold, and sort out the studs and bolts on the workbench, where
you can see what you are doing and have space for size 45 hands to work!

I think the coice of studs is based on the theory of *****simple*****
maintenance - if the studs and bolts are not rusted together, the tube
change can be accomplished by one man, standing under the car on a lift,
and the bolts wont fall out, or ride the thread, because they are studs.

Trouble is, the guy who designed that part of the car, maybe didn't
realise that the rest of the car would last so many years, that his
"bit" would rust up long before the rest deteriorated. (Maybe that
lesson was learnt several other places on the Series vehicles?)

If you break the stud in the casting, use an angle grinder or file to
shave it flat, carefully measure, mark and punch the centre of the stud,
andf drill it out, starting with a small bit, and working gradually up
in size until you can get the stud out, without destroying the inside
thread, which then must be cleaned using a tap. This sounds easy, but
due to the difficulty of perfect centering, is more difficult than it
seems.

Good luck!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "John D. Putnam" <jdputnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: Got my ARB
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:03:34 -0800

Greetings from the Great Wet Pacific Northwest,

Well, I decided to go with the ARB over the KAM ( can't find KAM to buy =
) and yesterday I got the big box.  Now that I have it, were should I =
put the compressor.  I purchased the filler kit so I want it to be =
accessible.  If anyone has installed one, and I know you have, could you =
please give me some pointers.  Also, what is the advantage of being able =
to turn the power to the compressor off?  The plan is to take the =
differential to a shop and have the pinion replaced and the ARB set up =
in the diff.  Then I'll be frantically rebuilding my breaks and =
installing the diff over the weekend.  By next week I should have a =
running Rover again.

Thanks in advance
John Putnam and the Rhino
Forest Grove, OR

------------------------------

Subject: snowplows
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 14:16:10 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

I must apologize to those that saw this last year, but I thought it might be
useful in answering Michael Roberts' questions about snowplows, in addition
to Dixon's good info:

	Fit up isn't too bad if you have a plow rig that was designed for a Rover
originally.  That way all the parts fit within reason, and you don't have to
be anything but hand tool proficient.  Adapting  a rig designed for a Jeep
or other small 4wd is also possible if you can cut and weld, and I've done
it, but better to trust the engineers at Fisher, and try to locate a used
Rover setup. Be sure to get all the parts, even if the PO doesn't want to do
the work to remove them from his vehicle.  The important parts are the ones
unique to the Rover, and include things you don"t normally think of like an
add-on or double pulley to drive the Hydraulics, the mounting fixture for
the Hydraulic pump, and all the parts and pieces which mount the operating
cables to the valve and the dashboard.
	If everything is there, and working, you should be able to set yourself up
for plowing in a day, assuming you've had the good sense to do this in
September, and aren't working in icewater or a snowdrift.  After the initial
installation, it takes about an hour in the fall and again in the spring to
put on or remove the pieces you will or won't need for the next 6 months(
assuming you get that much winter).  You can fit the actual plow in about
five minutes, depending on your back condition for the last little alignment
of the plow to the frame.
	Fisher plows, with which I am most familiar, come in a couple of different
varieties for LR's.  One has all the cylinders attached to the plow itself,
and the other leaves the lifting cylinder attached to the vehicle when the
plow is removed.  They both work well, as I have used both, though I  prefer
the former, since it leaves less stuff on the vehicle in the off season. 
The plow frame under the vehicle reduces ground clearance drastically, but
can be removed fairly easily for the summer, as mentioned above, along with
the drive belt for the hyd. pump.  Both of these types are designed so that
a Koenig winch can still be mounted, and I recommend some sort of winch
since you will undoubtedly bury youself in a drift several times a season.
	As for wear and tear, if you are going to plow for a living, get yourself a
big Ford, and don't worry if it destroys itself in 4 or 5 years.  I plow 4
or 500 feet of driveway from 10 to 20 times a year.  I'm not in a hurry, and
take my time and enjoy it.  The 88 I use was originally fitted with the plow
in 1965, and the man I bought it from had used it every winter for plowing. 
The original frame is still in very good shape, though I had to repair a
crack which developed, In believe, by allowing the plow frame to get loose,
allowing it to move around and stress the Rover frame.  I would definitely
not put a plow on a questionable frame because it will put a strain on it. 
Wear on the clutch, steering and suspension will be more than normal, but
what are these things for, sitting in the garage, or out getting used?  You
will need to replace your front springs with the hd type eventually, but
might as well use up the ones already on.
	I personally find the 88 handier for plowing since it will get into and out
of tighter places.  But I'm sure a 109 would do alright if you are patient
and don't have too many twists in your drive.  So, if your LR already has a
scratch or two, and you are the type who can avoid hitting any thing too big
too fast because you are not in a hurry, I'd say put on a plow and have a
good time.  
	 
Irish whiskey and a warm fireplace after are the real secret to enjoying
this.

Ron Franklin
--
 
 Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 12 Dec 96 14:18:56 EST
Subject: Re: Got my ARB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:19:07 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: KAM Diff Lock Illustration - LROI

There was some talk of the KAM diff locker a few days ago.
The lates LROI has an illustration of the installed unit.
It's in the article on the D90 that Mantec Services setup
for the Russian whose going to attempt the altitude record.
(don't have it in front of me so no page #).

The unit is not identified as a KAM - just as a diff locking 
unit but that's clearly what it is.  It sits on top of the 
axle casing with about 4 or 5 hoses/wires going into it.
It looks rather exposed/messy, as such things go, to me.  Seems
like the ARB set up is cleaner from the risk of snagging point
of view.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "John D. Putnam" <jdputnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: ARB Part 2
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:27:48 -0800

The Rhino is a '70 SWB SIIa

John

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:35:57 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 96-12-12 07:35:11 EST, you write:

<<  and mine ain't one of 'em. >>

Selective editing by the Major?  :-)

Gerry
PHZ  AZ  
(warm enough this morning to get the morning paper w/o shoes)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:27:23 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Magazines

Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
> LROI have a distributor in USA, I dont have their details, I think =
> you have to get LRW direct from UK or in shops stateside (when its =
> not being censored that is)

What do you mean by sensored? Did I miss something?

Tom

1 x 67 88  Took my drivers test in it 21 years ago
2 x 72 88's  Drive one daily hope to resurrect the other (logging truck
damage)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:32:32 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Truck cap/top

Michel Bertrand wrote:
> At 21:35 96-12-11 -0500, David wrote:
> schnip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Salutations,
> Michel Bertrand
My truck cab for the 67 was caved in on top when I got it. I pushed it
out (up) and then put a safari top on it to camoflage it.

Tom 

1 x 67 88  took my drivers test in it 21 years ago
2 x 72 88's drive one hope to resurrect the other.

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:04:15 -0500
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

Nate,

There was an article in one of the LR magazines a while ago about a guy in
the UK who had lost legs/been paralized and had changed out the manual for an
auto and was still rallying with it.  If interested, I can look it up for you
over the weekend.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:02:45 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: manifold destiny OR what a stud

Joel Guerra wrote:
> Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> > I am in the process of removing part of the exhaust system on my 59 SII 88
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> (I think they were copper), as they will not rust, and make future
> removals quick and easy. :-)
> Joel

Brass, I believe they are brass. That's what my Alfa used. On my series
III I made stainless studs and used brass nuts. So far no problems.
Stainless bolts and brass nuts hold the head pipe to the intermediate
pipe and that to the muffler.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:21:23 GMT
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Engine conversions

Recently I acquired the parts to make an 88 ( with a lot of work )
 What are the implications of fitting a GM engine ?  say the 2.8 or 3.1
litre V6 ?  is there a conversion available ? where ? how much ? what are
the benefits ? disadvantages etc ?

 Regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:57:11 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

 >Has anyone had success with installing an automatic transmission in their LR?
>Just curious for the time being but if Solihull can put AT in a D90, why
>can't I put AT in a 109?  My wife would love to drive a 109 but would much
>rather have an AT for the school carpool lines and such.

Nate,

        Ian Ashcroft in Jolly-old has done this with some reguarity and
even makes some adaptors. I drove a 2A with a Borg-Waner auto in it once.
THe accelerations was uninspiring because the auto soaked up a fair bit of
the 2.25s conspicuously few horsepower. Seemed to work OK.
        Ashcroft claims that with the Borg Warners (these are antique
designs), downhill braking is non-exisitant. To counter this, he used
reverse and modulated the throttle. He said you could watch the trans temp
go up but as long as you had a cooler and/or minimized the time under load,
it worked OK.
        Don't have Ashcroft' # handy but he advertises regularly in LROI.

Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 23:46:16 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't AT the antithesis of the Land Rover
concept, being able to control the vehicle through a careful, and often
specific combination of motor speed, gear, and "bite" on the surface - I
mean, if you want AT, or Stereo Surround, shouldn't you be looking at
another vehicle?

I am no purist when it comes to modifications, I just can't see the
point, whichg I am sure though exists, for those of you with other
demands in their daily driving - but please - why? I am interested!

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 18:15:02 -0500
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

In a message dated 96-12-12 17:56:34 EST, you write:

<< Pardon my ignorance, but isn't AT the antithesis of the Land Rover
 concept, being able to control the vehicle through a careful, and often
 specific combination of motor speed, gear, and "bite" on the surface - I
 mean, if you want AT, or Stereo Surround, shouldn't you be looking at
 another vehicle?
 
 I am no purist when it comes to modifications, I just can't see the
 point, whichg I am sure though exists, for those of you with other
 demands in their daily driving - but please - why? I am interested! >>

Good question!  
My answer:

Relatively inexpensive, reliable 4X4 which I can personally strip down to the
barebones and repair.  Additionally, useful for hauling large group with
stuff to various hard to get to places such as fox hunting meets,  horse
events (ie like Badminton, Burhley  only here its Radnor, Fair Hill, Essex
and the such), back fields and ski resorts.  In addition, it is not uncommon
for her to have 400 - 500 lbs of feed in the back with a few bales of
shavings (Roof rack).

When one looks at the cost of other similarly aged 4X4 (suburbans, Jeep Grand
Wagoneers and the such) they have the distinct disadvantage of more difficult
DIY repairs.

Additionally, for my wife, the relative uniqueness of the vehicle has a
certain appeal.  (She also likes International Scouts, 101 FC's and the 110
IIB FC ).  However,  if one were to drive in hilly stop and go traffic, the
advantage of AT is readily appreciated.   While she'd accept a manual
transmission, she being imminently more practical about such things than I,
asked about the possibilities, having heard about the AT D90's coming this
year.

If cost effective and practical, I would consider the modification.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:27:03 -0800
From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's

At 11:46 PM 12/12/96 -0800, you wrote:
>Pardon my ignorance, but isn't AT the antithesis of the Land Rover
>concept, being able to control the vehicle through a careful, and often
>specific combination of motor speed, gear, and "bite" on the surface - I
>mean, if you want AT, or Stereo Surround, shouldn't you be looking at
>another vehicle?

I have friends who have spent more than $15K US to upgrade their FJ40s to
auto trans/V8s so they performed better off road.

I have owned (and been off-road in) a Toyota 4Runner (I think that's a
Hilux outside the US), a Series IIA, and a 4.0l Disco (the only one with an
AT), and I found the Disco best off-road by far.  I do think, however, that
the horsepower/torque to weight ratio of a 4.0l Disco (190 bhp?/230ft-lbs
to ~4K lbs) has a lot to do with the off-road performance.  This would mean
significantly increasing the HP of a series LR, which I believe is
77bhp/90ft-lbs (when new, probably less for any current random sample) to
~3K lbs of weight.  That means roughly 140bhp and 170 ft-lbs, if it's to be
the same as the Disco (which I stated above was what I like).  Changing the
HP/Torque that much is going to probably result in a few broken
half-shafts.   You could go with less hp and torque, though.  

OOTH, if you go with Mike Smith's coiler upgrade, you get rebuilt Defender
axles, so you could probably do the AT with some engine upgrade (RR 3.5 has
similar specs to those above, I think) and have what you want.  I'd be
shocked if it cost less than $10K US to do that, though.  However, if it
did only cost 10K, then you basically have it for about $10K under what a
D90 runs, and $25K less than a NAS 110, which doesn't have an AT.  

I've found both the 88" SW (6 passenger since the conversion of the center
seat to a console) and the Disco (7 passengers with the extra seats) to be
fine vehicles for hauling kids.  Much preferrable (by the kids and by
myself) to a minivan or station wagon (that's estate car to those of you
who speak the Queen's English).  My son and his friends love it when I
drive either of the two Land Rovers on school field trips.  Any attempt to
make them better/more desireable for the purpose of hauling kids should be
applauded, as it's likely to be the seed for the development of more LROs
(my stepdad had a '62 88" when I was younger).

C

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: that's happened to the major
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 00:02:49 +0000

Major, please come back. We were only kidding!

Keep On (Land-Rover) Truckin'
Jim Wolf 1966 sIIa 109 sw Vicky
Portsmouth, VA. USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 16:45:33 -0800
From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Webber 2bbl Carb part

What webber 2bbl carb part number is used to replace the Solex on a '65 IIA?

C

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Subject: Off-Roading in NH Jan 4th (sat) 1997 
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:07:40 -0500

Everyone, 

We had planned a off-raoding trip on New Years day in Southern NH. Several
have asked that I move the date until the weekend, as it appears a lt of
you will be planning on downing a few beers the night before. 

So the new date is Sat 4th Jan 1997. 

South West New Hampshire, about 4-5 hours in the woods, may be cld and
should be muddy and after the this weekend, will probably have snow on the
ground.   

Mark

1988 RANGE ROVER - Beluga Black -  Decked out to get muddy
1991 RANGE ROVER - Ardennes Green - Plushmobile

------------------------------

From: Terrence Tatarchuk <tatar@netonecom.net>
Subject: Land Rover World
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:09:46 -0500

I would like to obtain the address of Land Rover World magazine.
Here in Northern Michigan we do not have a Barnes and Noble or any other book store I can find that carries it.

Terry Tatarchuk
Series IIA 88SW
Defender110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:40:01 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Subscriptions Address ,Land Rover World

Here it is Terry,
Land Rover World Subcriptions Department,
Hainault Road,
Little Heath,Romford,Essex
RM6 5NP

Steve

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: NOT LR RELATED (FW: Books for Children)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 17:07:35 -0800

Read the E-mails below.  It is a cool thing.
Mary Christmas ... who is she anyway.

Subject: Books for Children

It would be great if all of you can take a moment to do this.
Thank you
Joe

Subject: 30 Seconds for Children...

>The Houghton-Mifflin Publishing Co. is donating books to children's
>hospitals; how many books they give depends on how many emails they   
receive
>from people around the world.  For every 25 emails they receive, they   
give
>one book--it seems like a great and easy way to help a good cause.
>All you have to do is email:       share@hmco.com

Hope you can spare the seconds...and let your friends know.  So far they
>only have 3,400 messages...last year they reached 23,000.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 3713 
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4829
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80" IN REBUILD  "THE HOON"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE  "THE BUS"
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
69&71 MB U900s
86 MB 280GE 
88 SAAB 9000 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 02:09:53 -0500
From: Olafur =?iso-8859-1?Q?=C1g=FAst?= Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Starter lubrication

HI
I=B4m having trouble with my starter - He=B4s the early type without a
solenoid!! - The thing is that the pinion gets stuck - it tightens it self
so hard to ahh..ehmm..  thrust washer which then again tightens to the
drive-end-cover. This has happened at least once a month since this summer!
and to remove it that often is a real pain in the ... - I=B4ve tried to
lubricate it with several different lubs. but does=B4nt seem to do the trick=
 -
i hav=B4nt tried to wash all lub. from it - that probably the next step!! -
any of you faced this proplem?? - suggestions??

Thanx
  
-------
=D3lafur =C1g=FAst Axelsson    olafura@rhi.hi.is  =
 http://www.rhi.hi.is/~olafura

"Life!! - Lothe it or ignore it - you cant like it!!!"     
					Marvin the depressed robot

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:15:26 -0500
Subject: Color info for SIIA (was Re: wheel colors..)

> Interesting. Is this a NA sales brochure? My red '66 (88 SW) had/has   
>  limestone wheels. Maybe it was different for other export markets (red   
>  being an export color only, if I recall correctly). I could see red   
>  wheels on some type of emergency vehicle... Or were the body colored   
>  wheels an option?

More info on the brochure(s). I have several UK SIIA sales brochures which
have essentially the same table of colors

Body                   Wheels        Home      Export
Bronze Green      Bronze Green    *             *
Sand                  Limestone          +            *
Light Green          Limestone         *            *
Marine Bule         Limestone          *            *
Limestone            Limestone         *            *
Mid Grey              Limestone         *             *
Dark Grey             Limestone         +            +
Red                     Red                   +            + 
Mist Coat Grey     Primer               *             *

* Standard
+ Optional

above for Bonneted Control vehicles
Forward Control models mid Grey only

Interior trim & seats  Black
Interior trim & seats  Red   Fire Engines only
Roof Interior Lining   White
Canvas Hood    Khaki
Canvas Hood    Blue

Tropical roof    Limestone
Hard top         Limestone
Chassis frame  black

All the brochures have a "Queen's award to industry 1966" logo so they must
be '66 or later.
The head lamps in radiator panel brochures:
Station Wagons  706
88" Wheelbase Regular704/A
The World's Most Versatile Vehicle (b&w photocopy)  703/A
Headlamps in wings Brochures:
Station Wagons 757/A (cover photo is at partially filled Rutland Water)
88" Wheelbase Regular  704/A
109" Wheelbase Long   756

Some other observations from the brochures:
Headlamps in rad panel  SW top panels are limestone
Headlamp in wings SW top panels are limestone
Sides of SW tops are body color.
Tropical awnings are limestone
Hardtops are limestone
Pickup cabs are limestone (both 88" & 109")

None of my earlier brochures have anything on colors. Hope the above is of
use>

Regards,
David Cockey

 

------------------------------

From: Ruthrfrd@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:29:51 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Dear ROver Yonder, 
           Your idle problem sounds like a worn throttle shaft in your Solex,
Rochester, Zenith, whatever was fitted that year, carburettor. The engine
will run on whatever air it can steal and a worn shaft is as good a place as
any. When you release the throttle, doesn't always return to exactly the same
spot, the butterfly drags a bit on the side of the throttlebody and Bingo,
instant idle setting no. 2, past the slightly misalligned butterfly. And to
aggravate things, a little air as always seeping past the worn bushing,
bypassing the finely calibrated jetting so carefully engineered by the folks
who flunked out of Lucas University. Hence, two good reasons why a worn
throttle shaft could cause idle instability. Not that instability of Any sort
could be a problem for Landrover owners. 
                                              Viva la NET,   Ruthrfrd@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:53:04 -0500
Subject: Snow plow brochures

Two snowplows for LRs sales brochures came with our '60 SII SW. Don't know
the dates but the LRs appear to be SII.  One is from Meyer, notes that their
plows are "Approved by the Rover Motor Company of North America, LR. for use
with Land Rover". Both a straight, angling blade and a vee-blade are shown.
Both the "electolift" unit with an integral pump, and a engine driven
hydraulic lifts are listed. The Western brochure doesn't claim Rover
approval, and only straight blades are shown.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:08:50 -0700
From: Rover2a <rover2a@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Engine conversions

William L. Leacock wrote:
> Recently I acquired the parts to make an 88 ( with a lot of work )
>  What are the implications of fitting a GM engine ?  say the 2.8 or 3.1
> litre V6 ?  is there a conversion available ? where ? how much ? what are
> the benefits ? disadvantages etc ?
>  Regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exile
don't do it --- don't do it --- don't do it 
my first 88 III had a ford 289 in it ( no I did not do it  ) and all I
had was a big bill for things like a tranny, drive shaft, u-joints,
third members and don't forget 5 sets of axles. don't do it please don't
do it.

gar h
rover2a@xmission.com 

67IIA still has the custom paint from when I got it 8 years ago( primer
grey) and who cares what color the wheels are as long as it runs.

73 III Parts, it had the 289, and the mods done to the frame in a small
crash took out the hole thing( 25 MPH and the frame was bent in nine
places and the mounts for the motor let go and after that you don't fix
you have parts)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:47:08 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Magazines

At 11:27 AM 12/12/96 -0800, Thomas Spoto wrote:
>Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
>> LROI have a distributor in USA, I dont have their details, I think =
> you have to get LRW direct from UK or in shops stateside (when its =
>> not being censored that is)
;
>What do you mean by sensored? Did I miss something?
;
Yep.  Dec issue page 13 right bottom is a small picture of two women
standing alongside a Land Rover not wearing tops.

A US distrbution source decided that the picture made the issue unsuitable
for family use and returned his entire shippent. His company, his decision
as to how he wants to portray his company's image.

Personally I was glad to see the artical on Don Scott's hybred (I got a
ride in it going to Billing), one on aux lighting and one on bushings for
leaf sring LRs.  I survived the shock of seeing THE picture.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:22:08 -0800
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Magazines

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> At 11:27 AM 12/12/96 -0800, Thomas Spoto wrote:
> >Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> TeriAnn
> twakeman@scruznet.com

That's what it's all about. I purchased LRO and LRW at the same time and
thus far have only started the LRO. I looked at LRW and see what you're
talking about. Question, why is it cheaper to buy LRO from a news agent
here in the states than to have a subscription? I used to have a
subscription but my renewal price was more than the Newstand. I was once
told that U.K. publishers charge more for a subscription because they
view home delivery as a service. Is this true and have I just answered
my own question?

Tom
1 x 67 88 sitting in the garage wondering why I don't drive it more.
2 x 72 88's one I drive daily the other is waiting on a total rebuild

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: AT in Series LR's
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 96 9:10:54 GMT

> I am no purist when it comes to modifications, I just can't see the
> point, whichg I am sure though exists, for those of you with other
> demands in their daily driving - but please - why? I am interested!

To please the American market? Weren't there some plans to do away with
manual transmissions in US Landies?
Next they'll have those "shrink-wrap" automatic seatbelts - even more
pointless in my opinion.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 06:13:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Color info for SIIA: Correction

I wrote:
> Interior trim & seats  Black
>  Interior trim & seats  Red   Fire Engines only
>  Roof Interior Lining   White
>  Canvas Hood    Khaki
>  Canvas Hood    Blue

It should have stated:
Interior trim & seats   Grey  (headlamps in center)
Interior trim & seats   Black (headlamps in wings)
etc.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: RE: Tracking in our Trucks
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 96 11:55:02 GMT

> If the wear is even across the tyre then it probably isn't a tracking 
> problem. Are you running in 4WD? this eats front tyres, the tyres on my 110 

Yes, the wear is even. This give me another idea - perhaps level of
inflation - I tend to keep them at the same (just over 25psi), but you're
meant to have the front tyres at a lower pressure than the back?
The wea wasn't on the edges only - ie. not due to under-inflated.
I see the garage has inflated the new tyres to 30psi - a bit high perhaps?

> have worn/compressed down 3mm in 4000 miles. This could be partly due to a 
> rather aggressive tread pattern. When I bought the 110 the rear tyres had 
> 7mm front had 5mm, front were replaced 4000 miles ago (having reached legal 
> min.) while rear still have 5mm.

The original tread was quite an aggressive tread. I rarely use 4x4, and
mainly road driving...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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