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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: "Thicky" Question (or am I paranoid?)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 96 12:29:25 GMT

Checked my diff oil levels last week. My rear diff *looked* like it had
grease in it. It didn't last time I checked it (during the summer).
So anyway, one of the jobs this weekend is to "change" it.
Also, going to drop my sump, and change the engine oil (changing a number of
readily accessible gaskets - including the sump gasket).
Okay to clean both with petrol? I know this sounds silly, but there was
something in Haynes about not using paraffin for cleaning oil engine bits.
Sounds strange.

Is this "grease" in my diff just oil that got a bit cold? The diff
oil hasn't been changed since I bought it, although I might have topped it
up.

Oh, and does anyone have an idiots guide to tightening belts? Mine groan at
my inability to perform this simple act.

Richard paranoid but with a Gurkha SIII 109 FFR

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: "Thicky" Question (or am I paranoid?)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 15:57:52 +-100

Richard Marsden[SMTP:marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk] wrote:
<cut>
Also, going to drop my sump, and change the engine oil (changing a number of
readily accessible gaskets - including the sump gasket).
Okay to clean both with petrol? I know this sounds silly, but there was
something in Haynes about not using paraffin for cleaning oil engine bits.
Sounds strange.
Should be OK,if it is paraffin oil, but becarefull to dry 
it with a cloth or paper towel afterwards, You need to 
remove the aditives that are in normal petrol, I use 
paraffin myself for the V8.
Remember to fill the oilpump with petrolatum (mineral 
jelly, petroleum jelly or vaselin ( lots of names for
the same)), it is an easy way to prime it.
<cut>
Oh, and does anyone have an idiots guide to tightening belts? Mine groan at
my inability to perform this simple act.
There is two major ways:
On the longest free part between two pullys, You messure 
how slack it is.
1. With a weight, you check how many newton is nessesary 
to move the belt 1 cm, this is normaly in the workshop manual. 
2. My mechanic told me that at the same spot, if You can twist 
the belt 90 degrees with your thumb and second finger,using 
little force, it will be fine in 99% of places.

Happy Rovering

Bent
_____________________________________

Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

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end

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 09:25:42 -500
Subject: More Questions

Dave,
You mentioned a while back that Rob David modified a IIA(?) with a 
marine engine!  What sort of engine?  Is your LR complete and 
driveable?  Mark 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Dec 96  8:05:58 EST
Subject: Re: "Thicky" Question (or am I paranoid?)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 10:18:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: More Questions

Dave,
You mentioned a while back that Rob David modified a IIA(?) with a 
marine engine!  What sort of engine?  Is your LR complete and 
driveable?  Mark 

Mark/Taylor:

Could this be the Sea Rover? Or possibly the Land-Rubber? Look this up in the 
FAQ (http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/FAQ.6.taylorFAQ.html) for more info. Let us 
know what you find.

Please don't bore the list with any more tired old questions.

Regards

David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:15:46 -0800
From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Had Fuel Tank "Renewed" Instead of Eastwood

Thanks for the different suggestions regarding my fuel tank. I visited a 
local franchisee of the ReNu America and saw several finished tanks. I 
decided that my tank was so bad -- looked like a Martian landscape but 
without bacterial life forms -- that the Eastwood treatment wouldn't 
stand a chance.

They separated the tank from the external band, sanded inside and out, 
replaced a bad patch job, coated it inside and out, and baked it in an 
oven next to a pepperoni and anchovies pizza.  Comes with a 2 year 
warranty.  Starting price was $240, but we settled at $200.  Price 
comparison:  RN "Genuine" replacement $295.  Atlantic British $240.  I 
got the tank within 3 days and its' painted.  Is it as good as a new 
tank?  I'll let you know within 2 years.

Usual disclaimers, etc.

Cheers,

Neil Sheridan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:20:57 -0800
From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Air Filter

Anyone have any experience with using a 4 inch bolt-on air cleaner 
(with paper filter) on the IIA petrol engine?  I don't have any emissions 
control stuff and the car is exempt here in NJ.  I don't plan to do any 
deep wading soon and probably won't encounter much dust until spring.

Thanks,

Neil
'65 IIA 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:29:11 -0800
From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

The PO wasn't concerned that the gauges didn't work.  The water temp 
cable is snipped off at the sender.  I tried a used Rover and then a new 
substitute oil pressure gauge but got no needle movement on either.  The 
LR Shop Manual and Haynes don't seem to cover replacing the senders and 
cables to the gauges.  The Rover had an engine rebuild in '94 and then 
sat because it badly needed a frame horn replacement that never got done.

I'd appreciate some guidance on replacing the water temp cable (and 
sender?) and diagnosing the oil pressure problem.

Thanks in advance,

Neil Sheridan

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Land Rover Trek '96
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:57:50 -0500

BTW:

All Land Rover Centres should have received copies of the uncut TREK =
videos - one for each day of the trials - which were about 4 or 5 =
videos... Pretty repetitive stuff - just different teams from different =
dealers.

But, perhaps someone might lend one out???

LRMW's tapes seem to have all disappeared - probably went home with the =
techs who participated in the event...

cheers
Jim

----------
From:  Solihull@aol.com[SMTP:Solihull@aol.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, December 03, 1996 12:28 AM
Subject:  Re: Land Rover Trek '96

Land Rover Owner International has a nice feature on Trek 96. The farm =
where
it was held is actually in Social Circle, Georgia, east of Atlanta. That =
red
clay is the stuff we've all heard about. Doesn't wash out very well, =
either.
Did anyone run tape on that? I don't get ESPN2, as far as I know.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied =
customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:50:04 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

What year please? 
Check that the oil pressure sending tube is full of oil and not air.
Water temp sounds as though the sender went bad, hence the snippage. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:05:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

In a message dated 96-12-04 10:44:49 EST, you write:

 I'd appreciate some guidance on replacing the water temp cable (and 
 sender?) and diagnosing the oil pressure problem.
  >>
If memory serves me, the lead from the water temp gauge (which is actually
located on the right side of the front of the engine, next to the thermostat
lower housing--not like the picture in the Haynes manual--which shows the
cold start sending unit mislabelled as the water temp sending unit) runs
directly back to the temp  gauge. You can test for completeness of the
circuit by putting the key in the on position and then pulling the lead off
the sending unit and touching it to the engine block or chassis (grounding
it). If the circuit is complete (and the gauge is working) it will peg it to
the top of the hot on the gauge.  If this works, the problem is in the
sending unit.  If not, get out the ohmmeter and test the wiring for
continuity. (Each side of the gauge independantly first, if you get
measurable resistance on either side, check each segment of wiring on the bad
side to locate the problem segment) If this is all ok, you need a new gauge.

You can do the same process for the oil pressure gauge.

Good Luck

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com (Blue Brick Rover Page: http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm
 )

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Permission for posting Requested
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:10:51 -0800

I'd like to ask permission from the list to post some Information that I
feel would be of interest
to many of you. I am involved with a company that manufactures High Quali=
ty
accessories for
Land Rover vehicles and have developed a Web site for that company. If th=
e
goup doesn't mind
I would like to post a brief one time description of the company along wi=
th
our Web site address.
Everyones input would be greatly appreciated.

~~~~~~~^~~~~~~^~~~~~~~~~~^~^~^~~~~~^^^~~~~~~~~~
                                            o         
      _____                  o  o
      /|__|_\__(| =3D=3D=3D     o                                  Gene S=
parks
   __________         o                _\_             "Rhino Gear"
  /  |---|___|___\___  o            >(___ =92>       USS Disco   
 {  |~~_|=3D  |=3D  |o___ }  =3D=3D=3D                             
      (O)             (O)                                                =
 
          
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 09:14:23 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: marine engines

Mark asks Dave:
>Dave,
>You mentioned a while back that Rob David modified a IIA(?) with a 
>marine engine!  What sort of engine?  Is your LR complete and 
>driveable?  Mark 

To any interested folks: I'm driving a marine engine myself (even though I'm 
not Dave). Perhaps this is the "modification" that Rob has in his? For those 
who didn't know, Rover sold the IIA 2.25 diesel engine through Mercruiser 
dealers as an economical boat motor. Mine is one of a pair (sequential block 
serial numbers!) from a 24 foot Reinell deep-V commercial sport fishing boat 
that operated in Puget Sound in the '60s and early '70s. Differences from 
the automotive version were: flywheel not tapped for a clutch, unique 
flywheel cover/engine mount, drive spool to the gear box, unique intake 
manifold with a "gauze" air filter, unique exhaust manifold, fresh-water 
heat exchanger, sea water pump, oil cooler heat exchanger, 24volt starter, 
24volt alternator (on one engine) and refrigeration compressor (on the 
other), extra 2-groove v-belt pulley, no fan.
  The basic engine is stock Land Rover. If anyone knows anything about the 
history of the Mercruiser/Rover connection, I'd appreciate hearing from you. 
I don't think they were in business together for more than a decade, and 
possibly only a couple years. I'd like to know how many marine engines were 
sold, and to whom. Is there a way for me to learn the manufacturing date, 
based on the block serial numbers? Please contact me directly.
Thanks for the bandwidth,
JohnO
jouster@earth.rocket.com
'64 109 deezil

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 09:27:39 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Opinion on semi-commercial postings

At the risk of another flame war, I'll offer my two bits concerning 
semi-commercial postings on the list: Go ahead, fine with me, but PUT IT IN 
THE SUBJECT LINE to allow the option to skip over it. (insert token Land 
Rover content here)
'nuff bandwidth.
JohnO
ditdit

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 11:46:26 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Permission for posting Requested

 If the
goup doesn't mind
I would like to post a brief one time description of the company along wi=
th
our Web site address.

Well? Were waiting...

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 17:50:01 +0100
From: Auftragsannahme <info@atelco.de>
Subject: Re: Galvanization Tips

Hello,

near to my home in my village is a firm than galvanize every week. They
bring the stuff to an other firm. They dip galvanize the steel. The
Steel had to be clean of paint and lose rust. All other didnīt matter.

It costs 1,5 DM + 15% VAT per Kg. I is up to mmīs thick small holes are
closed.

I had galanize the steel Part of one of my door tops (109 Ser II) and
the read tailgates steel parts in the moment.

ciao

Oli 

Oliver_Gottlob@T-online.de

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:56:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Where's my plug ?!

> There is a tang on my frame that holds the plug when not needed. It's 
> just a plumbing plug you can buy at any hardware store. You may have to 
> try for size, but the salesman should enjoy crawling under the truck 
> trying to fit it. I am guessing at 1/2" NPT.

A tip. Mount the wading plug bracket on your dash (in a way that 
won't impale you in an accident). That way, you'll never forget that 
you have it in.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:56:36 -0600
From: Eric Evans & Bob Chochola <bobc@ktvt.com>
Subject: Re: Permission for posting Requested

I say... The more resources and info available the better... Lets see
it....

Eric Evans

Gene Sparks wrote:
> I'd like to ask permission from the list to post some Information that I
> feel would be of interest
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>       (O)             (O)
> ===============================================

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 12:55:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Permission for posting Requested

galleryg@techline.com,Internet writes:
>I'd like to ask permission from the list to post some Information that I
>feel would be of interest
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>with
>our Web site address.
>Everyones input would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, aren't you the one that's currently under lawsuit from Safari Gard
for blatantly copying their patented designs?  I heard that you were
showing their product and saying that you built it yourself.  If this
is true, I'm not interested in seeing your ads.

-- 
Sean P. Murphy    - Project Director - (404)/727-2398 Voice
Emory University  - ITD/LearnLink    - (404)/727-2282 FAX

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 13:15:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Wrecked D90 Hardtop

I'm looking for the first 8" or so of an aluminum Defender hardtop (i.e. all the 
fittings to fit to a Defender windscreen) in North America.  Tried AAA small car 
world with no success.  Does anyone know of any D90 SWs being parted or a 
damaged roof (full hardtop or p/u cab) that may be sitting around? 
Finders fee paid in Guinness :)

Thanks, 
Eric 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 13:18:25 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Permission for posting Requested

>Hey, aren't you the one that's currently under lawsuit from Safari Gard
>for blatantly copying their patented designs?  I heard that you were
>showing their product and saying that you built it yourself.  If this
>is true, I'm not interested in seeing your ads.

Oh?  I would be...just for kicks. Let the man speak before we condemn him, eh, 
mates?

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 22:49:26 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Permission for posting Requested

At 08:10 AM 12/4/96, Gene Sparks <galleryg@techline.com> wrote:
:I'd like to ask permission from the list to post some Information that I
:feel would be of interest to many of you. I am involved with a company
:that manufactures High Quality accessories for Land Rover vehicles and
:have developed a Web site for that company. If the group doesn't mind
:I would like to post a brief one time description of the company along
:with our Web site address.
:Everyones input would be greatly appreciated.

 I believe an occasional announcement of a company or web site is within
 the AUP (Acceptable Use Policy) of most mailing lists.  A signature to
 your regular postings, usually 3 lines max, with your address, phone,
 and/or URL is also within the AUP.  This will allow people to find and
 contact you for further information.  Unsolicited commercial listings of
 vehicles, parts, and prices to the entire list at large is not acceptable.

 Kind regards from California,

                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                    Rupert 72-88, ?? 89-RR
 510-988-0900          [________]            Land-Rover Rough+Plushmobiles
 cs@crl.com _________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^    www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 13:58:12 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Permission for posting Requested

bet 'cha the address is: http://www.europartsltd.com/

-- 
Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 14:17:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

This temp gauge wire , is it a strange looking thing with a center "wire"
wrapped with a reinforcing material?
If so then all is clear, not cheap, but clear
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 10:22:46 -0900
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@Alaska.NET>
Subject: Locking Diffs/Gearing

While I have not had experience with ARB's or KAM's locking diffs, I
have been using a MacNamara manually locking rear diff for almost four
years.  I run 31x10.50 Super Swampers when off roading and couldn't be
happier with the MacNamara diff. here are the reasons I decided on it at
the time.
 1. Simplicity.  It requires no air compressor or air lines to cause
trouble.  All that is required to lock it in is a 5/8" wrench.
 2. Strength.  The unit includes the beefier 1-1/4" diameter 24 spline
axles as used in Salsbury units as oposed to the wimpy 1" 10 spline
Rover axles.
 3. Cost.  At the time I bought it I had to get it directly out of
Australia.  MacNamara was a great company to work with and the total
cost was aprox. $650 U.S.  This included the diff, axles, new drive
flanges, all related hardware, shipping and import duties.  This was
much less than I could have gotten an ARB for and I still would have
been stuck with the 10 spline rover axles with the ARB.  KAM did not
have a locking diff at the time, but I believe thier unit is quite
expensive, partly because the exchange rate is much more favorable with
Aust. as oppossed to the U.K.
   In fairness I should add the folowing:  You can get an ARB unit for
the 24 Spline axles as they are used in the V-8 D-90's, however you
would have to find some 24 Spline axles the right length as well as a
later model carrier due to differences in carrier bearing sizes between
earlier and later units in order to put it in a pre 1980's Series
vehicle.  Also, while I got my diff out of Aust. there is now a US
company dealing them that probably wants a lot more that $650 and I
don't know if MacNamara will deal direct with U.S. customers anymore now
that they have a dealer here.
  In regards to gearing, I have been using KAM's 3.8:1 ring and pinion
sets for a little less than a year.  I am also very happy with these and
my experience with KAM was a pleasant one.  Total cost for 2 sets,
shipping, and customs was aprox. $500 US.  Combined with the costs of
new bearings and such the total cost of the gear swap was aprox. $750 US
with me doing all the labor.  This compared favorably with the cost of
an O.D.  I had been using an O.D. and am much happier with the new
gearing.  Noise is down and the 3.8's let the 2.25 petrol engine cruise
at 60 mph in its sweet spot, on my engine anyway.

Tim Sitter
Peters Creek, Alaska

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 21:53:34 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Overdrivin'

> There are 2-3-4-5 main methods (feel free to add others) to raise your 
gear ratio.
> 1) OverDrive (most flexible, expensive)
> 2) Replacement transfer gear from KAM differentials in the UK (or at least 
>    they know the source)

>3) replacement diffs (change overall gearing in high and low)
 4) larger tyres (small change in high and low)
 5) a change in the transfer box that will give you 15 or 30 % higher 
gearing in      high gear only, but will retain the old ratio in low gear - 
Ashcroft

Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:25:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Bothersome V8

Thanks for the suggestions so far,

I should have told you all that the engine is fueled by twin Stromberg carbs.
As was the standard fit here at the time.

Mike.

Lightweight / Range Rover Hybrid

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:44:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Ben Smith and I have been a bit busy... 

	What's new on the OVLR/FAQ web site...  been a while since anything
	has really been mentioned...   If anyone is interested in supplying
	information etc for the FAQ, contact Ben Smith (the Defender, Disco,
	Range Rover) or myself (Series vehicles).

December 2nd: 
     Added links and more articles from the OVLR newsletter by Alan 
Richer on repairing various bits and pieces to the OVLR home page and to 
the Series section of the FAQ.

December 1st: 
     Started a section on Land Rover advertising for later intergration 
into the LR identification pages (currently uses the 1959 Canadian brochure
in eight parts)

November 26th: 
     Added book and movie reviews from Todd Mills (excepted from the 
Solihull Society newsletter) and Robin Craig.

November 14 - 25th: 
	(Part of a programme to html articles from the OVLR newsletter
	 that are from 1994-1995)
     Added many of Robin Craig's General Service columns from the OVLR 
		   newsletter. 
     Added a section on the basics of caring for your Land Rover 
     Added a section on General Maintenance (and some alternative part 
			numbers) 
     Added a section on Tuning the 2.25L Petrol (and some alternative 
			part numbers) 
     Added a section on Setting the Timing Chain 
     Added a section on Valve Train Timing 
     Added a section on Repairing the fuel pump 
     Added a section on Removing, rebuilding and installing a steering 
			relay 
     Added a section on Alternative Alternators (and example of 
			installing) 
     Added a section on Rebuilding wiper motors 
     Added a section on Installing alterative windscreen washers 
     Added a section on Winter Storing your Land Rover
     Added a section on Preserving your Frame 
     Added a section on Front Chassis Leg Installation
     Added a section on Painting your Aluminium friend (three parts)
			- using a brush (Mike Rooth)
			- Being a wus and using a sprayer (Alan Richer)
			- paint codes
     Added a section on Cleaning after a mud run
     Added a section on High Lift Jack Installation

November 14th: 
     Added some of Bill McLellan's Dear Diary's (On acquiring a Land 
	           Rover) from the OVLR newsletter

November 11-13: 
     Changes to the FAQ. FAQ directories changes, a new breakdown of the 
main FAQ page instituted to allow an easy break out of Series, Range Rover, 
Defender, etc. related vehicles.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 14:49:56 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Air Filter

>Anyone have any experience with using a 4 inch bolt-on air cleaner
>(with paper filter) on the IIA petrol engine?  I don't have any emissions
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Neil
>'65 IIA 88

Neil,

        Truth be told, just about any type of filter is more efficient and
certainly more free-flowing than the oil bath. I airflow tested one earlier
this year and found it very restirctive. It flowed about 180CFM. A K&N
filter I tested that fits the carb (RU-0690 Zenith or Weber 1bbl, RU-2650
Solex, plus a 62-1320 breather vent filter) flowed 900 cfm and was
cleanable and reusable, just like the oil bath. Over the years, I have
often found it necessary to increase the size of the main jet (one size
usually) in some situations because with the restriction relieved, the carb
tends to lean out a bit.
        No doubt I'll get flack from the die-hard traditionalists, but the
flow-bench don't lie! As clarification, I would not necessarily throw away
the oil bath on my own rig but technology has come a long way and why not
use it to improve the older rigs if you so desire.

Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 18:38:21 -0500
Subject: Re: 4 Wheel Steering

Dan pases on with the usual disclaimers:
> Titles:  There is an advert in the Dec 2 issue of "AUTOWEEK" for an outfit
>  called Titles Unlimited.  They advertise free quotes for their services.  
> They can be contacted at  1-800-325-8136 or
>  http://members.gnn.com/geeross/titles.htm.  The ad also says "no previous
>  paperwork required."

This sort of ad used to be quite common in Hemmings, etc but generally
disappeared a few years ago. I seem to recall that there was some federal law
aimed at reducing car thefts which covered selling just titles. Probably more
of a problem for the business than the customer.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:00:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

Greg comments on TeriAnn's comment:
> > The thermostat, when open, acts as a restrictor to the flow of coolent, 
> slowing
>  > the coolent down so relativly efficient heat transfer can take place.
>  This part doesn't seem very intuitive. I would have thought a greater 
>  temperature gradient would encourage heat transfer.
My recollection of heat transfer is that the total heat transfer rate will be
graeater with a greater velocity, but will there will be less heat transfer
per unit flow of coolant. But overall a good description of the cooling
system.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:57:49 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) wrote:

 The coolent needs to be in contact for a time for heat to efficiently transfer 
itself to the coolent from the engine, and to the radiator from the coolent.  
The thermostat, when open, acts as a restrictor to the flow of coolent, slowing
the coolent down so relativly efficient heat transfer can take place.

It all seems right, with the thermostat reducing the range of circulation, i.e. 
avoiding the radiator until a working temp is reached. However, the transfer of 
heat from engine to coolant is most efficient when the "contact time" is 
shortest. The more the coolant heats up, the lower the temperature gradient, and 
the slower the rate of heat transfer. 
Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 17:29:22 -0700
From: "Stephen C. Gross" <sgross@evergreen.com>
Subject: D90 Transmission Woes...

To those of you with D90's or Discoveries with 5sp. manual
transmissions-

I own a 1994 D90.  Over the past few months I experienced grinding
during downshifting into 2nd gear.
Off to the dealer, in this case Phoenix Landrover, in Phoenix, AZ.  They
disassembled the transmission,
"rebuilt it", and returned it to me 3 days later.  The problem with 2nd
gear was corrected, but it
was not possible to downshift into 1st gear with the vehicle in motion
without severe grinding.

Back to the dealer a second time.  The mechanic also broke off a stud on
the left front exhaust manifold
and ground off the flats on the nuts holding the rear drive shaft to the
rear of the transfer case with
an air impact wrench.  He also filled the transmission with 90wt gear
oil instead of ATF, which is indicated
in the owners and service manual as the proper lubricant.

After disassembly, I was told that the replacement parts were not
available, as this transmission was
replaced by a newer model used on the disco.  Parts are on back order at
this time.  I asked for a new transmission
and was told it was not possible by a LRNA rep.

I find this unacceptable and warn other owners of this incident.  The
true indicator of how good a product or
company is becomes apparent when there is a problem....

Steve Gross
D90
Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 19:42:48 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: Re[4]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)

At 09:13 AM 12/3/96 EST, you wrote:

>Ack! I looked at it last night at the Newsstand...read it and then put it
>back. 
>Same with LRO. I just COULDN'T, no matter how hard I tried, justify spending 
>almost ten bucks on a magazine with only ONE picture of bare breasted women!

TEN BUCKS! They're only $6.50 at the local Barnes and Nobel.. 

Bare breasted women? Eh? Did I miss something?

A few years back at one of the Atlantic British rallies, someone had *the*
issue of Playboy with the centerfold posed on the back of an 88 with a
canvas tilt. Everyone had to have a look, but most of the comments were
about how the canvas was rigged..

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 19:42:50 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: stress in the 90s

At 08:20 AM 12/3/96 -0600, Ray Harder wrote:

>and, of course, i couldn't find any 11-inch ww blades either.
>what do those vw drivers do?   its in the vendor catalog with
>the partnumber, but there isn't even a place on the shelf for
>that partnumber.
-
NAPA has 10" wiper blades... P/N 60-1033. I think they have 11 inch blades
too..

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 96 19:52:12 -0500
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe <lro-digest> <eric.starr@furman.edu>

------------------------------

From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:52:36 -0500
Subject: Series 1

Hi,
I am asking for correspondents who own or know where Series 1 Land Rovers are
here in the US and Canada.  I am collecting info for a newsletter article and
am asking for your help.  Please respond to me via e-mail at:
tbache9248@aol.com
Second, does anyone know of a roof that allows D-90 windscreen to be used
with an 88" Series Rover? GRP would be OK. Thanks to all.
Tom Bache    1952 LHD S1/ 1987 RR "QE II"

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 96 19:57:41 -0500
Subject: Range Rover- sorry

I am sorry for posting JPEGS.  I had no idea it caused problems for many of you.
 I received a few nasty, threatening e-mails because of it.  I had no idea that
some people on this list can be so childish.

I just wanted to know what year of Range Rover is the best to buy if cost is no
issue.  I love the old body style and I am in the market.  Any ideas on what I
should look out for when test driving and purchasing a new used Range Rover?  I
will probably end up getting one of the County LWB Classics.  When was the last
year the old body style was made?

Thanks a lot for your help and I apologize for the JPEG problem.  I was just
trying to be nice and I had the best of intentions.

ROVERS RULE!

Eric Starr
1985 Mercedes 300TD
soon = Range Rover

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 96 19:58:06 -0500
Subject: Range Rover- sorry

I am sorry for posting JPEGS.  I had no idea it caused problems for many of you.
 I received a few nasty, threatening e-mails because of it.  I had no idea that
some people on this list can be so childish.

I just wanted to know what year of Range Rover is the best to buy if cost is no
issue.  I love the old body style and I am in the market.  Any ideas on what I
should look out for when test driving and purchasing a new used Range Rover?  I
will probably end up getting one of the County LWB Classics.  When was the last
year the old body style was made?

Thanks a lot for your help and I apologize for the JPEG problem.  I was just
trying to be nice and I had the best of intentions.

ROVERS RULE!

Eric Starr
1985 Mercedes 300TD
soon = Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 21:04:42 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Filters

Dan Prasadarao writes about filter numbers.

All of those posted are for the original cannister-type (OEM) filter that is 
garanteed to fill your armpit up with hot oil each time.  The Fram PH8A is 
for the "Richardson" spin-on filter adapter (and others based on this 
original design from '74) for cartridge types.  For this unit, other numbers 
are: AC PF2, Purolator PER-1, Mrtorcraft FL293.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 21:04:37 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Galvanizing tips

Mark Gehlhausen asked about galvaizing.  I've had quite a bit done, and the 
850 F seems about right.  This *will* warp flat panels and stock, unless 
you're dealing with 3/8" or thicker stuff.  The pieces need to have some 
dimension/depth/shape to them to prevent warping.

The cost seems a bit high.  The local place, Virginia Galvanizing, started 
out charging $.40 a pound, with a 100 pound minimum.  They went up to $.60 
then $1.00.  Later, one member got shanked for over $2 per.

At the risk of opening the debate of three years ago regarding metalurgical 
aspects of galvanizing wheels, I had mine done, and I can now run 
tubeless...something I couldn't do before.  I've been pleased with the 
results.  Anything that you want a good finish on, ask for a double dip.  
Sometimes, by double dipping, you don't get those little clots of swarf 
where you least want 'em.

Va. Galvanizing basically didn't care what shape the pieces were in.  A 
hydroxide bath for grease and paint, an acid bath for rust.  They *do* have 
a pre-heater kettle that's supposed to a better job with less potential for 
warpage.  But they specialize in dipping Interstate bridge parts - beams up 
to 70' long; they really couldn't be bothered with small stuff, hence the 
price/attitude change.

Several people have commented on 3M's 5200 adhesive.  As someone who has 
gone through well over two dozen tubes in rebuilding a Dutch-built (1956) 
mahogany sloop, I can say with authority that this is the nastiest stuff on 
the face of the earth.  Also, the best adhesive.  However, it has the 
ability to leap unseen onto various body parts, clothes, hair, etc. at will. 
 The stuff is *alive*.  Have plenty of alcohol (denatured, not the drinking 
kind) around for clean-up.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 18:08:38 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

At 12:44 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>My experiment seemed to show that it "closes" when hot and "opens" when 
>cold,

>was reached. From what I saw in the mounting hole, there is a bypass from/to
>the block which allows the water to recirculate to the block when cold. When
>it gets hotter, the thermostat "closes" the block by-pass and diverts water
>to the radiator only.

As I understand it, the radiator is used to *cool* the water.  That is, the
air flowing past the rad cools the water inside it (sorta like blowing on
your latte.)   So, when the engine gets hot, the thermostat sends the engine
water to the radiator to cool it (and the engine) down.  

Once the temp gets down to an acceptable level, cooling is no longer needed,
so the termostat sends the water right back to the engine without it going
to the radiator.

Best I can figure, the rad muff then doesn't do so much for cooling the
radiator, but instead, keeps cold air off the engine itself.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Gaiters and pic'
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 02:27:32 +0000

Mark Perry asks about heavy duty military gaiters.
I got mine from P.A. Blanchard for 18.00 UKP sterling plus shipping and NO VAT.
They were really 17.?? so I rounded off. They are impressive and heavy duty
only thing is you have to take the front end apart. It might pay to order
them and save until you have to do some major work on the front axle. I got
two pair just in case they aren't avalible later, but that' just me.

Of course the pic is OK.

P.A. Blanchard usually has an ad. in that wonderful Land-Rover publication LRW.

Has anyone seem the Warwick 4x4 ad. about the hub with the changable torque,
in the Dec. issue of LROI? This could be the series Rover' with the Rover
diff. answer to the broken half shaft problem. That is if its cheaper than
the salisbury set-up.

BY the way what ever happened to the T-shirt idea? Is anyone selling them?

Keep On (Land-Rover) truckin'  "got it right this time"
Jim Wolf 1966 109 sIIa sw Vicky
Portsmouth, VA. USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:41:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Air Filter

At 10:20 04/12/96 -0800, you wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with using a 4 inch bolt-on air cleaner 
>(with paper filter) on the IIA petrol engine?  I don't have any emissions 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Neil
>'65 IIA 88
Yes I've tried this.  It works ok on road but offroad is a problem.  I found
that it would plug up too the point that I could not reach 30kph in one days
driving in the sandhills northwest of Edmonton Alberta.  I did not notice
any performance or mileage differences between it or the oilbath type cleaner.
Give it a wack if you feel like it, it wont hurt.

Andrew Howton
Sparwood, B.C.
(604) 425-0598

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: Progress of LR Photofile
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 21:50:42 -0500

Hello to all,

Thanks to Greg Spitz, Richard Ruffer, Greg Moore and Soren again.  The =
contributions are very much appreciated.

I am open to advice about setting up a web page.  For the quantity of =
files I anticipate, and to keep one address as we travel around the =
world withmy job, and to make it worthwhile to you lot, I am thinking of =
applying for a domain name.  Any suggestions, advice or comments?

I am now accepting video of LR's doing their thing, so please =
contribute.  No hard copies of photos have been recieved yet, lots of =
electronics.  For those of you without scanner access this is a good =
opurtunity to have your LR's put on disk for free.  You have my word I =
will return all photos within 2 days.

Thanks Rod Steele.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 21:57:58 -0600
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Need glow[heater] plugs...will travel.

I am in need of information regarding the availability of glow plugs for 
my 2.25 lt.diesel.  For some reason they appear to break down easily and 
are extremely difficult to get here in GOOD OL MILWAUKEE.  Champion 
"CH45 or AG45 appear to be the correct numbers on the plugs.  If you 
know where I can get some replacements please let me know. 
	Peace, 
	Paul Hanson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 19:18:17 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

Hi Neil,
 I talked to Bruce at DAP about those dual gages & he suggested buying a
new one from MOSS motors.  I hope that helps.

Regards,
 Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Range Rover- sorry
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:05:13 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

starr_eric/furman@furman.edu[SMTP:starr_eric/furman@furman.edu] wrote:

I am sorry for posting JPEGS.  I had no idea it caused problems for many =
of you.
 I received a few nasty, threatening e-mails because of it.  I had no =
idea that
some people on this list can be so childish.

OK,  some list members get upset very quickly, but also forget in the =
same speed.
An little advice, get a free homepage, place pictures there, and =
announce the URL here. Only those that is interested will then have to =
use the bandwidth.
Lots of places offer free homepages. If You do not know any, I can =
recommend Geocities, there is a link from my homepage at:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/index.html

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBE294.A6EFEF40

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Permission for posting Requested
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 09:55:46 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gene Sparks[SMTP:galleryg@techline.com] wrote:
I would like to post a brief one time description of the company along with
our Web site address.

OK for me, but to save bandwith, make the description very shot, and 
place a longer one on the web site.
The members of this list will give You all the advertising you could want, 
as a free discussion. Remember, we will hear both the good and bad histories.

Good luck

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBE294.9D4FA3E0

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:59:34 +0200
From: jros@argus.co.za (Jonathan Rosenthal)
Subject: Re: Air Filter

>        Truth be told, just about any type of filter is more efficient and
>certainly more free-flowing than the oil bath.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>use it to improve the older rigs if you so desire.
>Jim Allen

Hi all
I've been thinking about this for some time but have received completely
contrary advice from people who seem to know what they are talking about.

One landy mechanic swears by his conversion to paper filter, Weber carb,
electronic ignition etc claiming huge gas savings and increased power.
Another I have spoke with insists on sticking with the oil-bath - he claims
it keeps dust out better.

Real question then is what is the filtering efficiency of the old oil-bath?
I figure if they were good enough for tractors they should keep dust out of
my old beasties' inards. But I am open to being convinced otherwise.
1) do paper filters keep air as kleen
2) how much dust can a paper filter take before being clogged
3) anyone have much experience on whether a raised intake with clyclotrone etc

Thanks

Jon (S111 1977 - the name of the beast)

-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jonathan  Rosenthal
| Industrial Reporter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| Tel: (011) 633-2638
| Fax: (011) 838-2693
-------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 09:39:44 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Need glow[heater] plugs...will travel.

>I am in need of information regarding the availability of glow plugs for
>my 2.25 lt.diesel.

If you are prepared to shop abroad,I can recommend the "Dieselgow"
replacement plugs.They are parallel wired instead of series wired,
and come as a set with the wiring,and fitting instructions.Current
price is around 25 ukp a set.The business ends of these things are
"bulb" type,as against the "bent wire" type of the old plugs.
I've got them on mine,and they work fine.
I can look up phone and fax no's if you're interested.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 51 lines 2133 [forwarded 119 whitespace 428]
 Output: lines 1531 [content 936  forwarded 74 (cut  45) whitespace 408]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

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In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
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Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
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World Wide Web Sites start at
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If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
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  -B

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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.