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From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 07:20:40 -500
Subject: GalvanizationTips?

LR Owners,
I am interested in galvanizing a number of steel panels.  Can someone 
shed light on the pitfalls of hot dip zinc galvanization?  I have 
located a shop which plates from 3 to 4 mil thickness.  Is this thick, 
thin or just right?  They mentioned a dip temperature of about 850 
degrees.  Is this too hot for flat panels?  I want to plate a number 
of strips about .060 inch thick.  Their minimum cost is $150 per job. 
Can anyone recommend galvanization as a rust cure for wheels, frame, 
and other rust prone metal bits.  All parts need to be rust and paint 
free at delivery.  Who has been here before?  What should I do to
ensure a satisfied job?  All comments appreciated!  Mark   
 

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:26:22 +0000
Subject: RE: Diesel mileage

>Remember I'm talking UK gallons, a friend gets 28 mpg from his 109 so
>I think 22 is pretty poor show from a newer vehicle. It still won't
>stop me keeping the landie.

>22 mpg is bad? For a 2 ton truck, anything over 15 is pretty
>impressive. Want mileage? Forget about driving a Land Rover.  
>Mhrrgh,...diesel good

My lorry gets 29 in winter and up to 33 in summer. OK, 90s are 
ligther than 110s, but about the same wieght as 109s.......

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:38:31 +0200
From: jros@argus.co.za (Jonathan Rosenthal)
Subject: Re: GalvanizationTips?

>Can anyone recommend galvanization as a rust cure for wheels, frame,
>and other rust prone metal bits.

I don't know about the rest but have heard that the finish from galvanizing
wheels (lots of little sharp pointy lumps) can abrade tyres/tubes.
Apparantly if you do galvanize wheels then be sure to sand them down with
fine paper before putting the rubber bits back

Cheers - Jon

-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jonathan  Rosenthal
| Industrial Reporter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| Tel: (011) 633-2638
| Fax: (011) 838-2693
-------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: GalvanizationTips?
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 12:40:00 PST

I think this is perhaps a little thick, Being over twice the thickness of 
the sheets you want to plate :-)
 ----------
I am interested in galvanizing a number of steel panels.  Can someone
shed light on the pitfalls of hot dip zinc galvanization?  I have
located a shop which plates from 3 to 4 mil thickness.  Is this thick,
thin or just right?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 08:11:43 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Chevy's in Landies

Hello!
I read with interest as Jim Allen shared some thoughts on dropping a 350
into a Landrover....

"The starter may interfere with the front driveshaft." 

We've got a (mid '70's?) Chevy Straight 6 where a LR six once was and I
noticed the other day that part of the starter does indeed interfere with
the front driveshaft...The starter housing has a small chunk (looks like a
casting for a bolt "flange?" that was never drilled or tapped) sticking out
of it (this appears to serve no function) and when the front axle
articulates up, the chunk scribes a neat line in the driveshaft......Anyone
have any thoughts on improving this condition? (helpful, abusive, and/or
otherwise equally appreciated) We don't anticipate the need for radical
articulation but I would like to head off potential problems.....Any reason
I shouldn't grind off this little nubbin sticking out of the starter housing? 

climbing (as fast as a snail) the learning curve and enjoying every step.....

Rob M 
Concord, MA USA
IIa dormobile

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Naming LR
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 07:33:00 EST

The 107 has been named. She's now known as 'Flossie". The name comes from 
the well known Rugby song The Cowboys Lament, my theory being that she was 
always a good pick-up.

Trevor Easton 1956 107 Pick Up "Flossie" 1962 SIIA 88 SW "Miss Golightly"

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: 5200 adhesive
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 07:53:00 EST

Trevor inquires about 5200:
 Could it be used to attach steel plates to a "porous" chassis :-)
And David replies
If you get to bare metal (no rust) but I doubt it would be stiff enough. It
is a flexible adhesive, which is part of the problem in breaking the joint.

Mmmm Flexible Eh, maybe improved articulation?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 8:49:56 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Taking the big dip...

Dip Galvanizing is like dropping a pair of pliers in a bucket of paint. 
It won't get into the nooks and crannies very well, but everywhere else 
it's pretty well coated. There is no way to really control how and where 
the stuff goes and the thickness depends heavily on initial cleanliness 
of the part and the temperature of the molten zinc. Just how much sticks 
and how much drips off is anybody's guess. Additionally, you often get 
blobs of slag and impurities that you have to grind off.
Much more controllable is zinc plating which is carried out on a 
molecular level and will effectively coat all sufaces pretty much 
equally. Thickness of the deposit is determined by time in the tank, not 
environmental factors.
For us common slobs, dipping is usually more cost-effective than plating, 
which requires huge runs to make it pay (not to mention all kinds of 
caustic EPA nastyness).
What does all this mean, you ask? Well first of all, the *all* say that 
$150 is the minimum price, but if you show up in an old car with your 
holiest jeans, ugliest Nikes and dirty hands, they'll take to you like 
Stimpy to a litter box. Plead poverty and offer to buy them a six. The 
price will definitly go way down.
Second, dip stuff like corner trim, cappings, and windscreen frames. 
Things that need a good coating, but don't need to be too pretty. Frames 
have too many places that will not get any zinc in a dip. These are 
better bought already plated.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 08:51:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "DAN PRASADARAO, AIR-7.4.1, SECURITY (703)604-2590 X6318"
Subject: 4 Wheel Steering

Been gone for a week, so I apologize for the late response.

4 Wheel Steering?  Check out page 129 of the Nov LROI.  Either this guy has 4
wheel steering or he is driving around with about 30 deg toe in on the right
rear wheel.

Titles:  There is an advert in the Dec 2 issue of "AUTOWEEK" for an outfit
called Titles Unlimited.  They advertise free quotes for their services.  They
can be contacted at  1-800-325-8136 or
http://members.gnn.com/geeross/titles.htm.  The ad also says "no previous
paperwork required."
Insert the usual disclaimers here.  Just passing on the info

Dan Rao
'63 109 stn wgn
'64 Formula Vee
'81 Scirocco
'90 Rice Burner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 08:54:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs

On Mon, 2 Dec 1996, Richard Ruffer wrote:

> Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed
> reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better.  Thanks for any
> thoughts.

Depending on how warm you want to be.....ever think of getting a hardtop??
not trying to be a salesman but...  I do know of one here in Pittsburgh
cheap, cheap, cheap. Nothing fancy, sliding glass, no dents.  Not a trop
top or it would be on MY rover.  I run a soft top in the summer but when
the leaves drop I put on the hard lid. Way, way warmer.  Just a thought.
My friend would part with the hard top in question for a very reasonable
price.  E-mail me if you are interested.  Oh and muffs DO make a
difference.

Russ W.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 09:07:31 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs

>>>Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? ...

I run the coolest thermostat, so this time of year its either muff it or change 
the 'stat'. Muff's easier to do, so there you go. Heats up like crazy and 
especially important, the temperature doesn't drop at all on the highway, which 
is where the Green Car is at her draftiest.
Sometimes it runs a little warmer than Id like, but usually I can still open it 
a notch or two when this happens. If not, just keep an eye on that guage, bubby.

Later
Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:09:27 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: GalvanizationTips?

At 07:20 96-12-03 -500, you wrote:

#Can anyone recommend galvanization as a rust cure for wheels, frame, 
#and other rust prone metal bits.  All parts need to be rust and paint 
#free at delivery.  Who has been here before?  What should I do to
#ensure a satisfied job?  All comments appreciated!  Mark   

I believe that the parts have to be paint-free, but not rust free. Usually,
a galvanizing shop will have a bath filled with acid or other strange
B-series movie goo to remove the rust and zinc off of your parts prior to
the hot-dipping. Check with them. They do definetaly want the paint off cos
it messes the "goo" up enough to make a sequel of the B-series movie. 

When galvanising a frame, the paint has to be removed, even on the inside,
bushings (leave the outer shell in, though), steering relay, and all welding
and repairs must be done before the dip. It might be necessary to drill some
holes in the frame so that the zinc can get out (the bottom) and so the air
can escape (the top). If you don't do so, you might get a blob of zinc in a
corner of the frame and no zinc at all in other locations. 

Be ready to be disapointed if you get some fancy parts (trimming)
galvanised. It oftens leaves a nice blob of zinc (Here's that B-Series movie
again...) where you don't want it and will have a lot of work to do after
the dip. Get the drill ready for a good spin. After that, you'll need a good
pop-rivet gun. On my 109, I needed about 450 rivets to put everything back
on. Those locker-hinges are a pain, also. The zinc has a tendency to jam
everything together. Time to get the blue wrench out, that is the light blue
wrench...

I got the door hinges galvanised. Not a good idea. 

Good luck!

E-mail me if you have more questions. 
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:12:07 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)

Thanks everybody for the advice, (especially Mike (I knew that free beer at
Stowe would pay up some day)) and I will try to solve the problem. Time to
crawl under Rudolph again...

Salutations, 

Michel
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 09:13:06 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)

> And the leg bone's connected to the hip bone...and the knee bone's
conected >to the leg bone...etc.etc... 
-
>>>I was kind of thinking that as I wrote....
Great minds think alike...

>>>I was bored... but *now* I've got the December issure of LRW, so I'm
not bored anymore...  8-O

Ack! I looked at it last night at the Newsstand...read it and then put it back. 
Same with LRO. I just COULDN'T, no matter how hard I tried, justify spending 
almost ten bucks on a magazine with only ONE picture of bare breasted women!

Still Bored in VA
Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 09:17:14 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Seeking Metal Pedals

I'm seeking a set of the standard issue metal pedal pads, the
almost square waffle stamped parts with raised lip edge, welded
to the pedal pendant arms.  The part you step on,  both clutch
and brake.  Thanks!  Mark  

Why do you need these? I thought all of our trucks had them.

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 08:20:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: stress in the 90s

in a prior thread in lro, dixon convinced me
that straight 20w and 30w oil was what was
best for 30 year old land rovers.  so i switched
to 30w in the spring.  last night i went to two larger
auto stores to get my 20w and neither had it.  they
had boxes and boxes of 30w, but no 20w.  the clerks
were 1) dumb, didn't even know what 20w was and 2) said
he didn't understand either, but everything was controlled
by the computer and the store was setup to "...plan...".

i compromised and bought 10w30.  just for fun, i am going
back in may/june looking for 30w.  i bet i find my boxes of 20w.

and, of course, i couldn't find any 11-inch ww blades either.
what do those vw drivers do?   its in the vendor catalog with
the partnumber, but there isn't even a place on the shelf for
that partnumber.

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:13:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: GalvanizationTips?

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Mark Gehlhausen wrote:

> LR Owners,
> I am interested in galvanizing a number of steel panels.  Can someone 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I am interested in galvanizing a number of steel panels.  Can someone 
> shed light on the pitfalls of hot dip zinc galvanization?
I just went through this.....I would recommend it to anyone even thinking
about it.

> degrees.  Is this too hot for flat panels?  I want to plate a number 
> of strips about .060 inch thick.  Their minimum cost is $150 per job. 
I had everything that needed to be galvanized done for $50.00
windshield frame, all the bits, tailgate latches, pigtails, all the
cappings etc.  I'm in Pittsburgh which has a ton of heavy industry(still)
and there are two places in town that galvanize so it probably keeps the
price down a bit.  The guy here said he'd dip a frame for $100.00 or close
to it he said he'd have to see it and weigh it.
> and other rust prone metal bits.  All parts need to be rust and paint 
> free at delivery.
here is the catch in all of this...you have to blast off all of the paint
or other crap such as zinc paint that other P.O.s have painted on then
when you take it to be galvanized it still has to be acid dipped to etch
the surface because it was once galvanized..this I was told is very very
important.  If the piece was once galvanized, in order to do it again  the
galvanizer must know this and dip the piece in acid.  
I'm very happy with the results from the place I dealt with. For the
$100.00 difference though  I don't think it would be worth the drive from
N.J. or shipping costs
don't be too surprised when you first see your parts when the place is
done.  Mine looked almost like crome for about a week until they started
to fade down a bit.

Russ W

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 11:34:30 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Chevy's in Landies

> I would like to head off potential problems.....Any reason
>I shouldn't grind off this little nubbin sticking out of the starter housing? 

BE CAREFUL!!!

This "little nubbin" may contain small pockets of alien bacteria. Hit one of 
these with the grinder and...SpLAT!! Get any of this stuff on you and you're 
finished, pal!

Dave "Watching too much X-files" B.

BTW, cool UNIMOG scenes in the last two episodes. Too bad they didn't have a 
101, it might have made it down that hill!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 11:54:03 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Radiator Muffs

Richard and his muff:

>I've had mine on for about a week now, and not sure if its making much
>difference. I tried to work it through. With a thermostat in the cooling
>system, the time before the thermostat opens is going to be about the same,

Wrong! (I think) If its cold outside, it takes the engine longer to warm up, due
to the cold air rushing through the engine compartment from the fan and the 
vehicle's forward motion. The fan is always going, which doesn't help. Covering 
the grille cuts off this ariflow and allows the engine to heat up faster and 
stay warm during fast cruising which would normally cause the engine temperature
to drop due to the volume of cold air coming in. 
A thermostat works by letting the engine get up to temperature, and then cooling
it down. Until this time the thermostat is just sitting there, and if the engine
never reaches the temperature at which the thermostat is set to open, then the 
thermostat will not open and there is nothing it can do to help the engine warm 
up. Believe it or not, with a big radiator and a fixed fan, (especially with a 
low temp thermostat) it doesn't have to be very cold (25-30 F)out for this to 
happen. Its bad for the engine, and it makes the driver unhappy, becuase the 
heater is only going to blow as hot as the engine... 

>>but once it opens, warming-up should be quicker, as should the top 
temperature.

please explain further...

>>Of course, the heater is heating
>>outside air (it is on my III), so if its frosty, then you've only solved half
>>the problem as it were. - you're trying to warm very cold air, with water
>>that's slightly warmer than before.

very true... helps to have less cold air coming in from all the drafts...get 
that hardtop on and seal it up...holes in the bulkhead, pedal boxes, floors, 
door seals, etc...

Later

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 12:00:07 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: 5200 adhesive

>If you get to bare metal (no rust) but I doubt it would be stiff enough. It
>is a flexible adhesive, which is part of the problem in breaking the joint.

>Mmmm Flexible Eh, maybe improved articulation?

yeah, but the problem is you'd have to drive backwards over the same tracks to 
get it back straight, especially if its cold outside. If you're in the southern 
hemishpere than forget it unless you've got an ARB locker...

Dave "Digging up old threads" B.

------------------------------

From: "Marco Lombardi" <marlom@mi.unicatt.it>
Date:          Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:26:30 +0100
Subject:       Re: unsuscribe lro-digest

Please, UNSUSCRIBE LRO-DIGEST

Marco Lombardi

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:44:00 -0500
Subject: Wading plug/starter shield

Does anyone know where the wading plug ought to be in  a US 110? I see an
empty horizontal hole next to the hole in the bottom of the flywheel casting.
I suppose mine fell out or was borrowed by a mechanic for some other
purpose...

Assuming I need to get a new one; what size (metric? thread pitch?) is it,
and does it have to be some special metal?

While I was down there having a look around and trying to scrub off baked
mud, I decided to poke at the starter motor... I then realized that I wasn't
supposed to be able to poke at the area I was poking at. There appeared to be
a heat shield there at one time to block some heat from the down pipe from
the starter. All I saw were the rusted fringes of the remnants. I guess the
starter's being made by Magnatty Merilly means the heat shield is made of
prime Fiat Steel... never known to rust until exported from Italy. I'm going
to try to cut a new heat shield out of a spare Dormobile roof (just
kidding)...
seriously, I'm thinking the life of my starter may be increased if it gets
some shielding from heat and muck, right?

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:44:06 -0500
Subject: Thermostats opening/closing

>From seeing all the recent posts about thermostats/rad muffs and being a
curious sort, I decided to see how exactly they worked. So I pulled one out
of a neighbors motor while he was out and plopped it in a pot on the stove...

My experiment seemed to show that it "closes" when hot and "opens" when cold,
as opposed to what I've read in postings about them opening when a given temp
was reached. From what I saw in the mounting hole, there is a bypass from/to
the block which allows the water to recirculate to the block when cold. When
it gets hotter, the thermostat "closes" the block by-pass and diverts water
to the radiator only.

I'm really confused by seeing this now, and wished I had never delved. As
long as the damn thing works, I guess I really shouldn't care about
open-cold, closed-hot or closed-cold, open-hot. Does any super-savvy
mech-type know the definitive answer?

I seem to remember cars in the Philippines overheating because mechanics
would remove thermostats thinking they are only necessary for cold
climates... so maybe tropical places should have a "permastat" which only
lets water go to the radiator?

pat"how do I get this back in?!" parsons
93  110

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:50:15 -0500
Subject: Mojave not-a-trip?

Mojave?   My calendar is sort of busy since we’re headed to the southeast for
the holidays.  No one had suggested dates yet so I’ll take a stab and see
what the response is.   If we met Sunday  (Dec. 29) in the same area as last
year and ran until New Years Day, that would give us three nights and about 2
and a half days for off-roading from Needles CA to Barstow CA.

This schedule gives people time to do their Christmas visits as well as
allows others to work on their vehicles and possible join us (TeriAnn?).

So, who is up for bringing in the New Years in real off-roading, LR fashion?
 As Rick and Ben can point out, the trip is a fairly low stress one with the
opportunity to get in some slightly more difficult areas.  

The details and story from the last trip are still at
"http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/" so take a look and give us your thoughts.
 I assume we would follow the same general itinerary with side trips to
different areas as time permits.

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ
'63 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"
'95 Disco "Great White"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 21:44:48 -0800
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: 109 for sale

A friend of mine asked me to post this. I have no financial interest in 
this vehicle and do not know  the details.

'69 109 Military 3 door, full canvas, Weber carb & many new parts.
$6,000 or BO.
Contact Reyer in New Hampshire at (603)675-2804.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 13:04:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

>I'm really confused by seeing this now, and wished I had never 
>delved....snipp... Does any super-savvy
>mech-type know the definitive answer?

the thermostat opens, allowing water to go through and into the top hose into 
the radiator. It may block off the bypass at the same time, i don't really know

>I seem to remember cars in the Philippines overheating because mechanics
>would remove thermostats thinking they are only necessary for cold
>climates...

Possible if the bypass isn't blocked off. Otherwise it would tend to run too 
cool.

Don't know about other cars though...

Dave B. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:27:50 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Where's my plug ?!

There is a tang on my frame that holds the plug when not needed. It's 
just a plumbing plug you can buy at any hardware store. You may have to 
try for size, but the salesman should enjoy crawling under the truck 
trying to fit it. I am guessing at 1/2" NPT.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:32:02 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Overdrivin'

> Marko Ylikorpi <marko.ylikorpi@ltk.hut.fi> tells a tale of woe
> I was shocked when our local LR-dealer gave me the price for the overdrive
> unit and his opinion was, that there is no use in installing it to models 
> with petrol engines.

Yes, they are horrendously expensive and they are like hens teeth on the 
secondhand market. (also beware the traps for the unwary with a 2nd hand O/D)
e.g. 'pointed' teeth on the input gear can indicate high wear/miles.

There are 2 main methods (feel free to add others) to raise your gear ratio.

1) OverDrive
2) Replacement transfer gear from KAM differentials in the UK (or at least they 
know the source)

Both are expensive, and overall (almost a pun) the O/Drive gives you more 
flexibility.

For a small boost you could get bigger wheels/tyres. I run on 7.50's and 16" 
rims.

Cheers

Paul "secondhand overdrive still pulling like a train" W. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 10:31:32 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Wading plug

On Tue, 3 Dec 1996 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
 
> Does anyone know where the wading plug ought to be in  a US 110? I see an
> empty horizontal hole next to the hole in the bottom of the flywheel casting.
> I suppose mine fell out or was borrowed by a mechanic for some other
> purpose...

Dear Pat:
On my '94 D90, the wading plug is in the vinyl tool kit roll. I've left it
there, but the empty hole that you mention is intended as a storage spot
as well. 
Yours could have fallen out, but it may be with the tool kit....

Best wishes, 
David Rosenbaum

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:25:45 -500
Subject: Re: Where's my plug ?!

Plug???  You guys talk about the most bizarre things.  M 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:32:06 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: 5200 and the neighbors...

Here's a thought...
Next time your busybody neighbor complains about the pile of parts in 
your driveway, just whip out the old caulk gun and slap in a tube of this 
gunk and pump a healthy blob under each of his tires around 2 a.m.. No 
fingerprints.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:47:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Wading plug

it is at the bottom of the flywheel....as you described...get a new one if
possible..I have an extra in the tool kit on my 110.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:54:47 -500
Subject: 5200 Applications Tutorial

I have used 3M 5200 and it is indeed tough stuff.  Would it really 
stick a car fast?  "Weld it or caulk it" said the greasy mechanic
to the disabled BMW motorcycle owner.  Shudders their spines.
And then there is the eternal "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
Maintenance"  Nothing that will bother the Series LR owner.
My LR thread is getting mighty thin ......... it just broke.  Best,  M  

------------------------------

From: "John D. Putnam" <jdputnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: KAM -vs.- ARB
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:13:33 -0800

Howdy,

Now that I know I need a new differential and that I might as well go =
all out and get an air locker, should I go for the ARB or the KAM?  I'm =
looking for someone who has actual experience with these units.  Winter =
is upon us in the great Pacific NW and I need my Rover back.

I thank you and the Rhino thanks you in advance.
John Putnam
Forest Grove, OR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 11:17:10 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Where's my plug ?!

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> Plug???  You guys talk about the most bizarre things.  M

And when you don't use the plug you get to talk about
frozen clutches :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:00:24 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: D90 oil filters

>        While we're on the subject, how about a US filter to replace the
>3.9 long filter??

Fram PH-8A

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 15:19:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Land Rover Reports Best November Sales Ever 

For all to see:

<< LANHAM, Md., Dec. 3 /PRNewswire/ --Land Rover North America, Inc. posted
 2,172 sales during its best November, 3.1 percent ahead of the 2,107 posted
in
 1995, the previous best November.  The company's line of premium four-wheel
 drive vehicles was led by Discovery, which posted 1,384 sales for the month,
a
 10.5 percent increase over a year ago.  Year-to-date total for all Land
Rover
 models is 20,772, 21 percent ahead of the 17,170 tally for the same period
in
 '95, and surpassing the 1995 full year sales record of 20,026. >>

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 14:39:07 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: KAM -vs.- ARB

John Putnam is interested in Lockers and so am I, who has any hands on 
experience?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 15:41:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "DAN PRASADARAO, AIR-7.4.1, SECURITY (703)604-2590 X6318"
Subject: Pat Hubbard "Series IIA engine rattle on cold start"

I have a similar problem, only mine rattles more after warm-up or running a
while.
After all the stuff on oil filters, I noticed that the filter installed by the
PO does not match any that I've seen posted here on the list.  It is a Fram
PH8A if my memory serves me correctly.  This is the same one that I have used
on a '74 Ford 360.  
Could this apparently incorrect filter cause insufficient oil pressure to the
head?  Just for kicks I added a quart of oil by pouring it in through the valve
cover.  When I started the engine it was as quiet as it should be for a little
while leading me to believe the problem with my engine is insufficient oil to
the head/valve train/lifters.

Dan Rao
'63 109 sta wgn
'64 Formula Vee

------------------------------

From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu>
Subject: Still looking for a 2a project
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:42:20 -0500 ()

		
	I am still searching for a Rover.  I am located in 
Virginia and am interested in looking at anything in the 
Mid-Atlantic region.  I am partial to a 2a 88 or 109.  I am 
expecting to have to complete a frame up restoration, but I 
would like to try to find a complete car, not something 
that someone has robbed parts off of.  
	Thank you for your time. 

-- 				JOHN
Adamson, John G
adamsojg@jmu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:46:30 +1300
Subject: Re: Overdrivin'

> There are 2 main methods (feel free to add others) to raise your gear ratio.
> 1) OverDrive
> 2) Replacement transfer gear from KAM differentials in the UK (or at least they 
> know the source)

3) replacement diffs.
-- 
hugh.grierson@trimble.co.nz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 17:01:40 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs

Asking about muffs...
> Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed
> reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my
> soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better.  Thanks for any
> thoughts.
I can't live without my muff.  I took the old grill off and cut out a piece
of cardboard to shape,  less 3 or 4 inches across the bottom.  Raised my
temp gauge  up into the bottom of NORM.  The key is that it gets there
quick.  As for the after-market muff I figure for $30+ I can buy a lot of
cardboard.

Mike Johnson  N7WBO

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  175k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:21:14 +1300
Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs

> I can't live without my muff.  I took the old grill off and cut out a piece
> of cardboard to shape,

I cut mine out a piece of corrugated plastic, a type used for 
signmaking.  Doesn't fall apart in the rain like cardboard.
In the winter I just wire it to the outside of the grill.

Just keep an eye on the temp gauge.
-- 
hugh.grierson@trimble.co.nz

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:36:35 -0600
Subject: marginally warm knees...

Hi all,

Posting this for a friend because she doesn't have access yet... Vehicle   
in question is a Series III, with a kodiak heater. The problem is the   
kodiak doesn't put out much in the way of heat, really only Slightly   
Warmer Air.

We spent an evening looking for possible causes, including changing to a   
RN winter t-stat, checking to see if the core was blocked, etc. Nothing   
doing. The temp guage (if you can call it that) gets to about a 45 degree   
angle to the left - i.e. halfway between cold and vertical, which is   
where it was before we started.

The kodiak in my IIa, while not exactly a blow torch, puts out quite a   
bit more heat on the standard T-stat, no muff.

What is normal for a series III? Should we be looking to get a vertical   
temp reading? What do others get when its around 20 degrees F outside.   
Possible suggestions before we try swapping heater cores (maybe her's is   
partially blocked)? Add a muff? Pull the fan blades?

thanks for the input,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:23:26 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: warm knees, thermostats, muffs, etc

A simple test for heater problems: the hose coming out of the heater core 
should be much cooler than the one going in. This assumes lots of air 
blowing through. 
If both hoses are hot, but the air blowing out is luke warm, then there is 
circulation and the problem is with the heater core (no air flow, crud in 
the core, etc). 
If one hose is much hotter than the other, but the air blowing out of the 
heater is only luke warm, then there is poor circulation (blocked core, 
blocked water valve, wrong style thermostat)
If both hoses are lukewarm or cold, there is no circulation (see above)
If both hoses are cold, but hot air is blowing out of the heater, look for 
high neutron emissions. 
A simple circulation test: connect a hose in a loop completely bypassing the 
heater and start the engine. Feel the hose; it should get warm within a few 
minutes from a cold start. If it does, then the problem is in the heater 
core. If it doesn't, then the problem is in the engine (thermostat related).

If the engine doesn't heat up fast enough, that's another decision matrix.

JohnO
17degF this morning. My diesel defrosts the windshield in about 5 miles.

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:07:35 -0500
Subject: manifold studs

Easton Trevor brings up exactly the point that prompted my original post.
The correct space in the middle of the exhaust stud is very short. He says
one-eighth, which sounds right. The replacement studs had a quarter-inch
gap, which happens to be exactly the thickness of the flange. Any slop
whatever in the fit of the studs in the manifold, and you are dead meat (of
carbon mo poisoning no less). He is right, that with the correct stud you
need nothing but three washers and some alchemical sauce.  But if you got
those gappy studs you are in deep doo doo.

|------------------------------------------------------------------
|                            Ned Heite
|                            Curmudgeon and contract archaeologist
|                            Camden,
Delaware 19934  USA
|http://www.dmv.com/~iceland
|------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: starr_eric/furman@furman.edu
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 96 19:20:28 -0500
Subject: A Good Range Rover
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="A"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello all fellow Rover enthusiasts!  My Dad and I are searching for a
used Range Rover for me to replace my '85 300TD Mercedes Wagon.  We
would love to know what the best year and model to buy would be.  Cost
is not an issue, just reliability.  I will probably end up getting a
County LWB Classic.  When were the "classic" editions last made?  I hear
that the '88 Range Rovers are no better than the '89.  But I would like
the air suspension system where you can raise  and lower the whole
chassis.  I think the old body style RULES!  It is SO beautifull! 
Thanks a lot for your help!  I have attached two cool pictures of rovers
if you know how to veiw them.  

Rovers RULE!

Thanks a lot EVERYONE!

Eric Starr
Furman University, Greenville, SC, USA
eric.starr@furman.edu

--openmail-part-092b0c4b-00000001

------------------------------

From: "Oscar Beasley" <beasleyo@milo.cfw.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:31:20 +0000
Subject: Parts for Winter Projects

Having sold my '72 Series III and settling on a price which didn't
include the acquisition of the very numerous spare parts, I would
like to sell the remaining bits so they can be put to good use and
not languish in my storage bins.    

Items included for sale would be about $3,500US at retail, but will
sell all for a lot, (read LESS), price.  Included are things like
brand-new, still on the pallet, high-speed transfer case (used in
place of noisy overdrives - $800), brand new, in the package Weber
rebuild kit, numerous trim items for doing over the interior,
cushions, bearings, seals, gaskets, wheels, tires, and so forth.

Email me seperately from the list and I will email back a complete
list of what is left (excel format).  I gave several people copies
at the Mid-Atlantic Rally.  Sseveral owners in Virginia, which is
where I am located, have been by to purchase some of the parts
already (rebuilt overdrive, springs, etc.), but much remains.

Buy early and buy often,
or better yet, buy the whole lot.

Thanks, and Happy Holidays to THE LIST!

Oscar Beasley
(beasleyo@cfw.com)

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:51:44 -0500
Subject: Solihull Society Xmas Party

Land Rover owners and enthusiasts who might find themselves in Colorado on
December 10, are invited to attend the Solihull Society Christmas Party.  The
time is 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm in Arvada, a northwestern suburb of Denver.
 Members as well as non-members are welcome to come and meet other kindred
souls.    

There are undoubtedly many of you who have been looking for just such an
excuse to visit Colorado.  Here it is!  (Yes, the ski slopes are open & there
is snow on the ground above 8,000 feet.)

For more details,  E-mail me privately, or call at 303-455-1719.

Paul Donohue
Secretary
Solihull Society
1965 LWB RHD oil spot applicator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:14:47 +0000
From: Mike Cattell <mike@mikecat.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Green Lanes

I thought that I would just pen a few notes about a recent experience that I
have had about a list I was compiling of lanes around my area.

1:Background:
I thought that it would be a good idea that as my service provider had
made avaliable 5mb of web space to its subscribers to compile and
publish a database of local byways for use by like minded people in my
area. The information was gathered from personal experience and by
trawling the OS maps for details. A search for the definative R of W map
at the local library had proved fruitless.
I published the begining of the database on the web and received some
very complimentary mail from all over the place.

2: The Phone Call:
A couple of weeks ago I recieved a phone call from a gentleman who said
he was the countryside manager from Cheshire County Council and that
he wanted to talk to me about my web pages. He asked me if he could
come and see me and an appointment was made for him to come and see
me at home. He asked if I would withdraw my web page until we had
spoken. This I did.

3: The visit:
At the appointed time he turned up, struggling up the path with piles of
paper. I opened the door with some trepidation as I did not really know
what to expect.

4: The suprise:
The chap introduced himself as Mike Taylor, Contryside Manager of
Cheshire County Council. He explained that his department had taken over
the management of R of W's from the Highways department two years
ago as the highways were doing nothing about them. This a man who is
very passsionate about rights of way's and the rights of users. He
explained how most of the rights of ways were recorded by CC's by
asking local Parish councils to let them know where the RoW's were in
there Parishs. This along with the ramblers ass. were taken as gospel and
the maps were drawn. He said Parish Councils were quite often
influenced by the local gentry and landowners who saw it as a chance to
eliminate walkers from their land. He actually bought the definative maps
with him and showed me parishes with absolutely no paths in them and
some paths that actually stoped in the middle of fields where they crossed
from one parish to another or were reclassified from RUPP to footpath.

He is trying to reclassify RUPPs as BOATS to comply with the wildlife and
countryside act 1981. He is loathed to start the classification until he is
sure he can conclusivly prove its a BOAT as he doeds not want down
classification to Bridleway or footpath. The conclusive evidence is the
stumbling block and requires a lot of research and archeology. As an
example the lane I live on is an unclassified road and is on the list of
streets and as such cannot be changed without an act of parliment. The
road peters out and turns into a RUPP and crosses a small river by means
of ancient packhorse bridges no more than 1 metre wide. On the other
side it becomes an UCR again. Mike wanted to change the RUPP to a
BOAT but the land owner argued that the bridges cound not take a carrige
so it must be a bridleway. Mike is sure that there used to be a ford on the
site but is having real difficulty proving it. He hopes to get some
archeologists to excavate and show this until then he will leave well
alone.
He told me that many routes shown as footpaths on the map are infact old
carrigeways and as such are perfectly legal to drive but the onus is on
the driver to prove the fact if challenged.
He said Cheshire County Council are very pro the use of BOATS and as
such they are regularly maintained, mowed twice a year, etc. He stressed
that users should try to use them responsibly and not use them in times of
rain etc. and to winch only if absolutly essential.

He also says that if you drive RUPPS it would help his job if you document
your drive occasionally preferably by a photo with the date on it. This is
more important if you have battled through a little used way.

4:Conclusion
Forgive me for rambling on but I think we are lucky in Cheshire to have
such a proactive chap responsible for our byways and he deserves all
the support we can give him.
He is helping me to rewrite my web pages to give as accurate information
as we can.
He can be contacted as follows:
M I Taylor
Countryside Manager
Cheshire County Council
40a Church Street
Davenham
Northwich
CW9 8NF
tele 01606 43874

He recomends the following as a good read:-
A Guide to definative map procedures,  Countryside Commission,
Department of the Evironment.
LARA, Access Guide for motorised Recreation and motorsport in the
countryside
LARA, Questions of Countryside Motorsport

If I can get permission I will put transcripts on my web site 

Hope the above is of intrest to all you Land Rover drivers and that I havn't
wasted to much bandwidth

Happy Rovering
 
Mike Cattell, Christleton, Cheshire, U.K.
http://www.mikecat.demon.co.uk/

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:52:48 -0500
Subject: Pink Panther - good buy: LRW

Caption beneath photo of SIIA "Pink Panther" in Dec. LRW:
"Ex-military SIIs, like this desert camo model, often make good buys"

So now we know why Jim Pappas bought his "Pink Panther". He was looking for a
good buy in a LR.

Seriously, this is an example of what really irratates me about LRW. The lack
of knowledge about LRs, particularly series, of much of their staff. They are
at least cutting down on the "bodge of the month" variety of DIY articles,
and getting some expertise to help with the DIY articles. OTOH the "Special
USA Feature" article was valid this month with the Maine expedition article.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:56:53 -0500
Subject: FAO Schwarz LR D90

FAO Schwarz is carrying the "new-ray" 1:32 D90 SW model with 4wd friction
motor. Actually it's not a bad metal model other than the wheels being
somewhat outsized, and the leaf springs. Best part is price is $10,
considerably less than I've seen before. May be the best buy in the store.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:36:42 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Zenith woes

Scott Fugate writes that he is having trouble with a *new* Zenith carb.

First of all *there is no "mixture" screw*!!  It is a slow running or idle 
jet, designed to spill fuel into the throat when the throttle is closed.  
The problem with Zeniths (now made by Solex, BTW) is that the factory left 
out a very necessary annealing step after casting.  Sure, it saves money, 
but the carb bodies will warp after they heat up real good.  (First 
time?...two years later?  You pays your money and take your chances.)  Glass 
plate grinding will restore the 'flatness' of the halves.

Then again...it could be the damned O-ring eaten up by oxygenated fuel 
additives...which a recent study has prooved do nothing for the environment 
except to improve the thickness of the suppliers wallets.

Does anyone have a good source for Viton rings?  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:33:14 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

There seems to be a lot of confusion about what a thermostat is up to in a
series Land Rover.  Lets see if I can confuse things more.

1. Basically, your cooling system consists of a bunch of passages inside
the engine where water is heated, a pump that pumps the coolent through the
system, and a radiator that cools the coolent.

The pump is driven off the crank shaft via a pully.  It pumps realatvly
slowly at idle and  much faster at driving speeds.  The coolent needs to be
in contact for a time for heat to efficiently transfer itself to the
coolent from the engine, and to the radiator from the coolent.  The
thermostat, when open, acts as a restrictor to the flow of coolent, slowing
the coolent down so relativly efficient heat transfer can take place.

When an engine is cold, the thermostat is closed, blocking the passage way
to the radiator.  Coolent can not be pumped through the radiator.  It sits
in the engine block and is warmed by the engine.  If the thermostat was
open while the engine was cold, the engine would take a long time to get up
to operating temperture.

2. Different parts of the engine generate heat at different rates.  If the
coolent just sat there, the coolent would overheat in the head while the
coolent near the thermostat was still on the cool side.  This could cause
the head to crack.

To keep this from happening, there is a small coolent bipass hose that
allows the coolent to be pumped through the engine while the thermostat is
closed.  This bipass hose is connected in parallel with the radiator.  If
the thermostat was missing, the pump would pump about half the coolent
through the radiator and about half though the bipass reducing the cooling
ability of the system considerably.

The Land Rover thermostat has a cylindrical skirt.  This skirt is attached
to the moving part of the thermostat.  The skirt acts as the valve to the
coolent bipass hose.  When the thermostst is closed, the skirt is away from
the bipass opening.  When the thermostat opens to let the hot water flow
into the radiator. the skirt moves to close the bipass.

If you have the "standard" skirtless thermostat in the engine the bipass
will always be open.  If you block off the bipass with a plug, you run a
real risk of damaging your engine during warm up.  You need a cylinder with
a restrictor hole placed in the bipass closed position to use a standard
thermostat.  The end result is that you will lose a little efficency in the
cooling system over having a proper thermostat but you won't destroy the
engine by warming it up.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:59:16 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Thermostats opening/closing

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> The thermostat, when open, acts as a restrictor to the flow of coolent, slowing
> the coolent down so relativly efficient heat transfer can take place.

This part doesn't seem very intuitive. I would have thought a greater 
temperature gradient would encourage heat transfer.

Greg - "whose not an engineer and can't even spell physisssst"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Ruffer" <rruffer@world2u.com>
Subject: Radiator Muffs
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:57:59 -0500

Thanks for all the radiator muff replies. It sounds like they really work. 
I think I'll ask Santa for one for Christmas :^)

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@world2u.com
'94 D90
http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 23:12:03 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: More Heat,

Hi All,
 I have a 109 which has almost no heat & for good reason.  The po
connected a hoss in place of the temp senser which is of course the
wrong place.  One hose should come from the the rear driver side of the
head while the other should go to just below the upper heater hose.
 While working on the 109 the heater (a kodak) was removed & inverted
while flushing with water. It was unbelievable what dirt came out of it.
While it was reinstalled the hose correctly connected an air bubble was
in the core(air blocked) which was easily fixed.  Great heat NOW.

I hope this helps someone else.

 Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 17:22:51 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: bothersome V8

a (cheap) possibility:

if you have a carbon canister for evaporative control ...
these can break up and send carbon into the carby's
via the purge lines which leads to bad running.
You can install a fuel filter in the purge lines
to capture the carbon but this can still get
choked. At least it's easy to clear.

Symptoms - car might idle and also accelerate
at large throttle openings but not at modest
throttle openings.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Subject: Anti-seize cross reference
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 17:53:00 EST

Mike,
The anti-seize lubricant I use is Permatex 133A made by Loctite Corp. 
reorder no, 133AR
I use it on spark plugs in alloy heads and on manifold nuts.  It's OK to 
1200 deg F continuous or 2000 deg F intermittent
Would this be what you are looking for?

Ron

From: MHKINGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 07:35:25 -0500
Subject: Anti-seize cross referance

Does anyone have a cross referance to a U.S. made product for "Rocol
Anti-Seize Compound Foliac J166". This is a paste which is used between the
engine head and the exhaust manifold.
Mike King

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Wading plug/starter shield
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:05:29 +0100 (MET)

Pat,
| Does anyone know where the wading plug ought to be in  a US 110? 
In your toolkit.

| Assuming I need to get a new one; what size (metric? thread pitch?) is it,
| and does it have to be some special metal?
It's one of these tapered imp. threads. Same size as the fill hole plugs
at the swivel balls. I just bought one from a British autoparts dealer
for about 1US$.

cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Radiator Muffs
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 96 9:31:37 GMT

> Richard and his muff:
> >I've had mine on for about a week now, and not sure if its making much
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> >system, the time before the thermostat opens is going to be about the same,
> Wrong! (I think) If its cold outside, it takes the engine longer to warm up, due

<jump> 

> to the cold air rushing through the engine compartment from the fan and the 
> vehicle's forward motion. The fan is always going, which doesn't help. Covering 
> the grille cuts off this ariflow and allows the engine to heat up faster and 
> stay warm during fast cruising which would normally cause the engine temperature
> to drop due to the volume of cold air coming in. 

Agree here. I have a Kenlowe fan, so its not as bad...

> A thermostat works by letting the engine get up to temperature, and then cooling
> it down. Until this time the thermostat is just sitting there, and if the engine
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> happen. Its bad for the engine, and it makes the driver unhappy, becuase the 
> heater is only going to blow as hot as the engine... 

Mine seems to warm up enough for the thermostat to open.

> >>but once it opens, warming-up should be quicker, as should the top 
> temperature.
> please explain further...
> thermostat will not open and there is nothing it can do to help the engine warm 

Most of the cooling will be from the radiator. Therefore if the thermostat
is open, the muff will have maximum effect. If the the thermostat is closed
(and the radiator is effectively out of the system), the effect will not be
as great - I said "none", you seem to think there will be some, which I guess
makes sense.

> >>Of course, the heater is heating
> >>outside air (it is on my III), so if its frosty, then you've only solved half
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> that hardtop on and seal it up...holes in the bulkhead, pedal boxes, floors, 
> door seals, etc...

Vents, and door seals in my case. Hardtop is sort of sealed up. (depends on
the direction of the wind, when it rains!)

I wondered if partly blocking the heater intake would help - but then less
air would be blown by the fan, albeit hotter...

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 06:26:40 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: A Good Range Rover

At 07:20 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:

>Hello all fellow Rover enthusiasts!  My Dad and I are searching for a
>used Range Rover for me to replace my '85 300TD Mercedes Wagon.
........
>I have attached two cool pictures of rovers if you know how to veiw them.  
-
.....(much JPG Bullshit deleted)...
>/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAAAAAAAAAAD//gAfTEVBRCBUZWNobm9sb2dpZXMgSW5jLiBWMS4wMQD/
-

Keep your stinkin' JPGs off the mailing list. If you really want to ask
someone about Range Rovers ask them on the Range Rover mailing list.. If
you know how to find it. Otherwise, go out and buy a RAV4..

I amagine the 49 K worth of crap pissed off more than a few of us with
dial-up connections...

Cheers

Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.               1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                    1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7       1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>      1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG
http://wyattweb.com/freepage/l/landrvr@blacdisc.com/home.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 06:26:43 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: I'm outa here..

I'm outa here for a week or two..

Between twits with JPGs and assorted drivel I've had it....

Actually, I'm going someplace warm and sunny for a week and I won't have no
stinkin' computer to look at..  :)

Plese sent all correspondence to:

        Old guy with the beard
        Third palm tree to the left of Fred
        The Tropics

Cheers
 
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.               1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                    1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7       1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>      1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG
http://wyattweb.com/freepage/l/landrvr@blacdisc.com/home.shtml

------------------------------

From: Jon Bloor <jmhb2@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Green Lanes
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:48:57 +0000

At 00:14 04/12/96 +0000, Mike Cattell wrote:

>I thought that it would be a good idea that as my service provider had
>made avaliable 5mb of web space to its subscribers to compile and
>publish a database of local byways for use by like minded people in my
>area. 

I think that this is generally an excellent idea- when you are talking about
local lanes, the research, definitive maps etc is bearable.
The problem really starts when researching for a trip that is further away-
because it means that you have got to find time to travel to the Records
office for the County where you are going during office hours.
In general this can be very difficult to fit in with work etc- but basically
it has to be done.

I for one would love to see a National Database of rights of way, especially
if included a regularly updated lists of the lanes with Traffic Restriction
Orders etc in force.

However, I do think that there is a potential danger in making this
information so easy to get hold of. The present system means that you at
least need to be reasonably committed to actually find out where you can drive.
I would worry that this could lead to 'opening the floodgates' to all the
people who have just brought a new J**P etc and who fancy playing in a bit
of mud.

i would suggest that the list should be accompanied by a rider that Rights
of Way are *not* the place for offroaders unless you intend to drive
responsibly; there are plenty of OffRoad centres where you can go to get
muddy, and play at Camel Trophy etc.

Good Luck with your Database, you are lucky to have a ROW officer who
actually cares about vehiclular rights of way.
Cheers,

Jon Bloor,
1971 IIA 109 Diesel
1969 II 88 Petrol Trialer
          

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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