[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 18 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
2 | ericz@cloud9.net | 44 | Land Rover Trek '96 |
3 | ericz@cloud9.net | 33 | Re: Hi-Back Seats |
4 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 34 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
5 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 35 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
6 | "Davies, Scott" [sdavies | 19 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
7 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 75 | RE: Land Rover then and now |
8 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 17 | Re: "Any body need..." |
9 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 27 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
10 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 17 | Land Rover then and now...more fuel ... |
11 | Marko Ylikorpi [marko.yl | 17 | Overdrive |
12 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 13 | Diesel mileage |
13 | "Davies, Scott" [sdavies | 16 | RE: Diesel mileage |
14 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 30 | Re: Anti-seize cross referance |
15 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 40 | Re[2]: Land Rover then and now |
16 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 27 | Re: oil filter |
17 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 27 | Re: oil filter |
18 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi | 19 | Re: oil filter |
19 | TPrecord@aol.com | 9 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
20 | "Davies, Scott" [sdavies | 12 | re: diesel mileage |
21 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 21 | Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...) |
22 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 14 | Re: clyinder head |
23 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 12 | Re: Overdrive |
24 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 14 | Strong Adhesives |
25 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 23 | Re: Overdrive |
26 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 16 | Manifold Studs |
27 | debrown@srp.gov | 48 | RE: Alternator rebuild |
28 | "Jeff Young" [young@mci. | 21 | [not specified] |
29 | Bob Watson [bobw@microso | 36 | RE: Land Rover then and now |
30 | DONOHUEPE@aol.com | 18 | IIa oil filters |
31 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 25 | Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end |
32 | "Brian Cotton" [Brian.Co | 29 | 50th Tour of South Africa |
33 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 19 | KAM lockers |
34 | paarch@ix.netcom.com (Pa | 20 | Re: home-made hydraulic winch |
35 | Allan Smith [smitha@cand | 5 | [not specified] |
36 | m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fu | 25 | Zenith Carb Woes |
37 | Addison [jraddiso@slate. | 19 | Buick V8 conv'n |
38 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 14 | Re: Strong Adhesives |
39 | David Place [dplace@mb.s | 16 | Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters |
40 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 66 | Re: home-made hydraulic winch (long) |
41 | jimallen@onlinecol.com ( | 26 | Re: Buick V8 conv'n |
42 | Rod Steele [rsteele@inte | 24 | Progress on YOUR LR photo Archive! |
43 | "Richard Ruffer" [rruffe | 16 | Radiator Muffs |
44 | Pat Hubbard [patito@sh3. | 31 | Series IIA engine rattle on cold start |
45 | brstore@Default.ibm.net | 37 | Re: Radiator Muffs |
46 | Don Scott Wallace [swall | 37 | Information on 1990 to 1993 Range Rover County "HELP" |
47 | Solihull@aol.com | 38 | Re: Zenith Carb Woes |
48 | Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b | 30 | Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters |
49 | Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b | 22 | Re: Overdrive |
50 | Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b | 23 | Re: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...) |
51 | Solihull@aol.com | 20 | Re: oil filter |
52 | Solihull@aol.com | 17 | Re: Land Rover Trek '96 |
53 | Solihull@aol.com | 21 | Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end |
54 | rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa | 12 | Re: D90 oil filters |
55 | Blair Gillespie [Gillesp | 22 | 1972 SIII Questions |
56 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 29 | Re: Land Rover then and now |
57 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 75 | RE: Buick V8 conv'n |
58 | Brad Krohn/Deborah Shann | 19 | Series 2A Oil Filters (US) |
59 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 25 | Re: Radiator Muffs |
60 | "Davies, Scott" [sdavies | 46 | RE: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start |
61 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 5 | Re: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start |
62 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 10 | Seeking Metal Pedals |
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 07:59:14 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now TerriAnn writes: >happens when these high tech wonders really start to age and break down on >a trail in the middle of nowhere? Are you guys going to need to start >carrying around, diagnostic computers, tonnes of relays, ECUs, injection >pumps, & special sensors? Nah, the smart ones 'll just rip all that crap out...stick a coupla SU's on that V8, and... then the others can sell em to us cheap so's we can do the same. Dave B. 72 SIII SWB with very few remaining emission control parts... ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:15:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Land Rover Trek '96 Lounging around after dinner last night I got a call from a friend of mine: "There's some Land Rover thing on chnnel 59 you might want to watch...." Quickly, I ran down to the firehouse (I live in the boonies, no cable) and there it was, on ESPN2, an hour-long LR infomercial, the report of the Land Rover Trek '96. For those who had never heard of this even before (including me) it goes like this: Each dealership sends down three of its people (usually young service types) to compete it a CT-esque set of tasks. They ran 5 spd Discos decked out with the requisite roof rack, decals (lots), lights, woefully inadequeate skid plate, etc. Really an fancier version of the Alimunium Man triathlon that takes place at the ROAV rally each year. Events included. Night Orienteering...self explanitory. Autocross: Same as those that take place in the car parks but on dirt and you get time added for hitting cones. Canoe task: Canoe around a pond, picking up lug nuts and a wheel to then place back on the vehicle. Trials course: traditional trials, similar to ARC but it seems 'shunts' are allowed. Off-road quite light, really. TSD event: Off-road time-speed-distance event, light dirt road type stuff. Final Challenge: head to head event involving wiching, moving logs, etc. Probably the most exciting part of the event. All in all, was probably a great time for everyone involved. Seemed like a cheezy dog and pony show, though. I know the purpose of these events is exactly that, but the presentation was just too contrived. Everything was set up so that damage was almost impossible to vehicles and getting stuck was almost impossible. Was a good show for tread lightly, though. No super-stomper-mudder -gonna-drive-over-your-Honda-and-spit-chaw-all-over-the-place-so-I-can-drink-my- budweiser....attitude there. For me, the best part were the LR adverts that aired in between segments of the show. Didn't get a chance to tape it though. Anyone got a copy? There a couple Guinness in it for ya! :) Rgds, Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:15:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Hi-Back Seats On Sun, 01 Dec 1996, Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com> wrote: >Could you let me know about the CRX swap also? Are you using the Honda's >seatbelts too? Neil, Finished up on Saturday...been testing out the setup for a couple days. The width of the seat is fine and the additional support works well. I used the original LR seat tracks, just relocated them rearwards and inward to line up on the holes in the seats. The fronts of the tracks are hinged to allow access to the seat bases. Spacers are placed between the tracks and the seats. At this point the seats are a bit too high, the spacers need to be reduced. Another problem is that the seat backs don't come forward enough. I've got to take apart the reclining mechanism to see if it can be modified. I didn't use the Honda belts. I had installed LR inertia reel belts earlier. Net effect: the comfort level is great. Ideally, a higher windscreen would make the setup better. It takes a bit of work trying to get everything straightened out and aligned properly but with patience it is definitely worth it. When I get a few spare minutes, I'll take some pictures and post them on my web page. Rgds, Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 05:31:29 -0800 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now At 10:23 AM 12/2/96 +0100, Franz Parzefall wrote: >TeriAnn, >there are a couple of coilers out there, that combine the goodies of ;both, the leaf and the coil sprung Land Rovers. My 110 still has >absolutely no electronic on its 2.5l normal aspirated diesel (and ;of course nowhere else, too). Repairing this heap of birmabright is >as simple as working on my friends SIII 109. ;Of course Land Rover cheated you Americans and didn't export them >to you. ; >Happy rovering. >Franz Franz, It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler. With a 2.5L yours will have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rino too though. You have the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for. Unfortunatly in the US the coilers have electronic everything. The Defenders are more basic with less electronics but is still dependant upon complicated high tech systems in the engine. One of our local people was standed miles from nowhere when the inside petrol tank fuel pump stopped working on his new Defender. If he had a new pump for his new car, I understand that he would have had to drop the tank to replace it. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 05:45:07 -0800 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now At 7:59 AM 12/2/96 -0500, Bobeck, David R. wrote: >TerriAnn writes: ; >>It seems a major part of the Land Rover experience is mantenence. What >>happens when these high tech wonders really start to age and break down on ;>a trail in the middle of nowhere? Are you guys going to need to start >>carrying around, diagnostic computers, tonnes of relays, ECUs, injection >>pumps, & special sensors? ; ;Nah, the smart ones 'll just rip all that crap out...stick a coupla SU's >on that V8, and... >then the others can sell em to us cheap so's we can do the same. ; >Dave B. >72 SIII SWB with very few remaining emission control parts... ; This solution, while making sense to me, is not an option for Americans. These cars will spend their existences being visually inspected for the existence of all the SMOG equipment and have to pass a periodic SMOG test. I assume this means that the engines will not get in as bad shape as some owners have allowed their 2.25L engines to get into. What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major expensive engine work to pass SMOG? Maybe a lot of the coilers will never see 25 years. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:00:00 PST Downside of the 2.5D with permanent 4WD is the fuel economy is hellish, 22 mpg on a good day. Top speed is also unimpressive, 68mph downhill with the wind behind you, 50mph if you're into a headwind. Despite this I still love my landie, but with hindsight I should have gone for a late 109. Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ---------- From: twakeman It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler. With a 2.5L yours will have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rhino too though. You have the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: Land Rover then and now Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:02:58 +-100 TeriAnn Wakeman[SMTP:twakeman@scruznet.com] wrote:>Dave B. What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major expensive engine work to pass SMOG? Maybe a lot of the coilers will never see 25 years. Why not ?? The 110 coilers will do 25 as easy as the 109. I am sure about that, I have a 1983 V8, and have been driving more than 240000 Km (150000miles), and is still going strong. next major controll of the engine will be at 300000Km. I never expext to change my 110, ??? if the new taxregulations will let me have the economicaly possibility to keep it. European Union are bribed from the car industry, to make it impossible to drive vith an engine larger than 1000 ccm (61 cubic inch), just to make all people buy a new small car. Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/ begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(@`/`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`' !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&<`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W M;F5R0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970`4TU44 !,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W;F5R M0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970``!X``C !````!0```%--5% `````'@`# M, $````E````3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T M``````,`%0P!`````P#^#P8````>``$P`0```"<````G3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/ M=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T)P```@$+, $````J````4TU44#I, M04Y$+5)/5D52+4]73D520$Q!3D0M4D]615(N5$5!32Y.150````#```Y```` M``L`0#H!`````@'V#P$````$`````````R=.`0B !P`8````25!-+DUI8W)O M<V]F="!-86EL+DYO=&4`,0@!!( !`!P```!213H@3&%N9"!2;W9E<B!T:&5N M(&%N9"!N;W<`- D!!8 #``X```#,!PP``@`0``(`.@`!`"X!`2" `P`.```` MS <,``(`#P`R`"(``0!%`0$)@ $`(0```#%$,C=#13$T,C4T0T0P,3$Y.$8Q M,# V,#A#0T8S-3,W``,'`0.0!@`,!0``$@````L`(P```````P`F```````+ M`"D```````,`-@``````0 `Y`&#]T^=AX+L!'@!P``$````<````4D4Z($QA M;F0@4F]V97(@=&AE;B!A;F0@;F]W``(!<0`!````%@````&[X&'GRA3.)QY, M)1'0F/$`8(S/-3<``!X`'@P!````!0```%--5% `````'@`?# $````/```` M8F) ;VQI=F5T=&DN9&L```,`!A#AI^/6`P`'$)@"```>``@0`0```&4```!4 M15))04Y.5T%+14U!3E--5% Z5%=!2T5-04Y 4T-255I.151#3TU74D]413I$ M059%0E=(051(05!014Y35TA%3E1(159!3%5%3T942$5#05))4T1/5TY!3D1) M5%)%455)4D53``````(!"1 !````D0,``(T#``!]!0``3%I&=:8%=$O_``H! M#P(5`J@%ZP*#`% "\@D"`&-H"L!S970R-P8`!L,"@S(#Q0(`<')"<1'B<W1E M;0*#,S<"Y <3`H,T!$83,S$@NPA5`H!]"H (SPG9.Q?/>#(U-0* "H$-L0M@ M;O!G,3 S#? +"A5A"_(:8P! ( J%"HML:3$$.# "T6DM,30TSPWP#- >DPM9 M,38*H -@E1/08P5 5 9Q06X#H!A786L3X !P6U--H%10.G1W(41 !/$H=7IN M$< N!:!M7=,;CQ9 ('<@0CH+1A11`POR(#8^1&%V92#D0BX=+3,V'S<EA!T8 M.R4O(')7$8 %0!& <'"3"? $('=H"? @="O C"!V!T *4"!O9BOSAF,*P00` M(&1O=P.@'0!P9"U !4 7T'%U:3<7T 0@`,!J!; *A65X;2MB:2:A"?!G"X F ML'?E!;!K*_!O( JP!!$AL A/1S\D@$UA>6*Y)K!A(!=@!4 LIF\#$/\$D"N1 M`Q #("+@)J O%A&PXR:P&@`@>641D2;L(W^;'*8JX'DST#)Q/S\U=?I4+!$Q M&O S#"V --(Q,+\O@#$P-_ ZD2P"&O Y)N9Z22W ;320"' R(0;@=?<%0"P` M*P`L/"$1@":A,D" ,3DX,R!6.#UPKRW2/;,R$"O19 40=@N OF<<I@1@/*$] M,0.@,AZPB4%!($L\8"@Q-4%"\FTS,7,I/I0M41/ ,Z+^9S,@/^$3P -@&M F MYB+@_G@%0"[3,P$", -@,[$LI?\P-C.B,A(%0!L004)!D#NX?S/C+X-$X3#Q M$7$:T":P;?\W\#DA/7 X4#AF!I K\R+@RP?@`9!X%]!G=0M@0S#_`B S=3- M1/$FL#VS1C-%<34#<&DM$&PW\#5U<&_Y!!!I8@,0+A W\##Q(5!$97 N`2X@ M10AP;WLK8 .150,``B MP#RA8G\%$#(0+? #4ARF+-<MX'7]0^%Y/7 P\0# M(5 N`@=POT]D,T PXC^2+"$N$&@MP?<<IC U"V!R2?!3(@.1&O I06%C8T&A M-A9 8W7=3[!C4[$1<$*!:E/Q5%<_-74'0 ,@*V!1$%618G7[.O%+HW,`P#.Q M+1$FYC5U?D@K03?P" `T`3_1'+Q"PPGP!4!";V5H,T(U=8)H`D!P.B\O=V&0 M\BY)\&]C+A (D#50(R$6+P1@,/!R8@%Y+S.P-30R+QR\%O$`9, ````#`! 0 M``````,`$1 `````0 `',&!D4BQ@X+L!0 `(,&!D4BQ@X+L!'@`]``$````% -````4D4Z( ````#B?0`' ` end ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:13:32 +0000 Subject: Re: "Any body need..." Paul Hanson. I've been trying to e-mail you, but your system bounces my mail? What's your correct address? Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:00:20 +0100 (MET) TeriAnn, | It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler. With a 2.5L yours will | have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rino too though. I didn't try with rhinos since they are a bit rare here in Germany. But someone shortend his Misubishi L300 by about 30cm at my side panel just behind the rear wheel. Was no big deal. 250$ for the mechanic, a sheet of alu and some pop rivets.... | You have the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for. ^^^^ Didn't know they made a that long one for the US ;-) cheers, Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 9:14:28 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Land Rover then and now...more fuel ... Perhaps it's just my smelly old diesel inclination, but it would seem to me that it's well worth the effort to rip out that chunk of re-animated GM poo and replace it with a tidy little Ford Powerstroke or Cummins Turbo Diesel. No smog checks and no electronic gizmos to pop an anurism whilst one dips below the waves. Then, my friends, you'd have a truck that will withstand more than a herd of rhinoscerae...30 years ?, no problem mon.... Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 16:21:45 +0200 From: Marko Ylikorpi <marko.ylikorpi@ltk.hut.fi> Subject: Overdrive Hello Rover friends, I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a good idea to install a overdrive. I was shocked when our local LR-dealer gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is no use in installing it to models with petrol engines. Is there anybody out there with a similar LR to mine who might tell me if I should or shouldn't buy the overdrive. Cheers, YK ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 9:21:35 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Diesel mileage 22 mpg is bad? For a 2 ton truck, anything over 15 is pretty impressive. Want mileage? Forget about driving a Land Rover. Mhrrgh,...diesel good !! Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: Diesel mileage Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:37:00 PST Remember I'm talking UK gallons, a friend gets 28 mpg from his 109 so I think 22 is pretty poor show from a newer vehicle. It still won't stop me keeping the landie. Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ---------- 22 mpg is bad? For a 2 ton truck, anything over 15 is pretty impressive. Want mileage? Forget about driving a Land Rover. Mhrrgh,...diesel good !! ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:40:37 +0000 Subject: Re: Anti-seize cross referance > Does anyone have a cross referance to a U.S. made product for "Rocol > Anti-Seize Compound Foliac J166". This is a paste which is used between the > engine head and the exhaust manifold. Don't know about that, but for the last 20 odd years I've been using NeverSeeze(tm). Snap-on sells it off their trucks, International Harverster (Navistar) sells it with their label, and alot of pipe supply houses (the ones that sell industrial supplies) sell it as it's used heavily by pipefitters. I think Grainger may sell it also. You can get it in regular, nuclear grade (contains nickel= higher temp, toxic) and food grade (for those who cook on their engine) Mixed with a bit of oil, it makes a great cutting oil also. It's a good conductor of heat (unlike some anti seeze) so use it on your spark plugs. Oh, and did I mention I like it? Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 09:46:10 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Land Rover then and now ; This solution, while making sense to me, is not an option for Americans. >These cars will spend their existences being visually inspected for the >existence of all the SMOG equipment and have to pass a periodic SMOG test. This just in California, maybe a few other states? Probably soon enough everywhere else though, huh...?? >I assume this means that the engines will not get in as bad shape as some >owners have allowed their 2.25L engines to get into. Probably not. If they do, they'll either go to junk or to folks who can rebuild em... >What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major >expensive engine work to pass SMOG? Maybe a lot of the coilers will never >see 25 years. In Viriginia, right now, any gas powered car over 20 years old is not required to pass emissions. The safety inspector may do a visible smoke test, though. If this holds out for another seventeen years then we can start modifying these d90's however we want. Not counting on that though... I've often wnodered what's going to happen to all these elcetronic wonders when their wiring harnesses go the way of so much frayed insulation. Seems the strictly mechanical systems of the vehicle will be the only thing left standing...personally, I'd be happy to own one like that, considering it can be bought for under $1k... Also I'm curious whether the newer engines and gearboxes will prove to be as long-lived as some of the older ones. Seems to me simplicity was the key to the longevity of Series vehicles... later Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:47:55 +0000 Subject: Re: oil filter > Is ther a US equivalent or manufacturers part number for a ser 2A oil filter ? > Regards Bill Leacock short long 6cyl AC 72 FF50 FF24 FRAM CH834pl1 CH822PL CH853PL NAPA 1099 1315 Hastings P-186 P-191 Purolator MF150A Wix PC315D Not all of the above filters are still available. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:03:18 +0000 Subject: Re: oil filter Don't know how it looked to you all, but the formating on my oil filter post was screwing to me, so here it is again. AC 72(short); FF509long); FF24(6cyl) FRAM CH834pl1(short) CH822PL (long); CH853PL(6cyl) NAPA 1099(short) 1315(6cyl) Hastings P-186(short) P-191(long); Purolator MF150A(long); Wix PC315D(6cyl) Not all of the above filters are still available. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:08:31 +0000 Subject: Re: oil filter > Don't know how it looked to you all, but the formating on my oil > filter post was screwing to me, so here it is again. oops, a typo. must have been the effect of the Dec LRW. ;-) Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TPrecord@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:06:51 -0500 Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest In a message dated 96-12-02 07:24:02 EST, you write: Contents: >> ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: re: diesel mileage Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:56:00 PST Just did a quick calculation; following the BUDGET here in the UK (5% tax hike on diesel) my annual diesel bill for 12000 miles is set to top US$2500. Does that explain why I would like better fuel economy? Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT (All donations to the fuel fund gratefully received :-)) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 10:15:38 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...) Mike tries to explain the inner workings of the Series x-fer box... >How it all works... (this is a real Rube Goldberg...) >The red knob is attached to the transfer gear selector shaft. This shaft >moves the transfer gear for high and low range ...lots of confusing drivel snipped... And the leg bone's connected to the hip bone...and the knee bone's conected to the leg bone...etc.etc... Don't tell us YOU'RE going to start writing tutorials too...:-) Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 10:18:35 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re: clyinder head >What's the deal with replacing der wasser pumpen. $250.00 >no rebuild kits. Is this real? Yes its real. Last time I checked there were rebuilfd kits available. Requries a press or creative use of your bumper and a bottle jack. Try one of the aftermarket suppliers for a less expensive replacement. Then you can rebuild yours and have it as a spare. Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:23:42 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Overdrive have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a good idea to install a overdrive. I was shocked when our local LR-dealer >gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is >no use in installing it to models with petrol engines. Why not? Did he say?Never heard *that* one before. Rgds Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Strong Adhesives Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 08:15:00 EST Do not use 5200 unless you are absolutely sure the joint will never need disassembling, and then only if you are going to sell the LR to someone you don't know who lives far away. It is an extremely strong adhesive. Says David Cockey Could it be used to attach steel plates to a "porous" chassis :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:32:15 +0000 Subject: Re: Overdrive Quoting Marko Ylikorpi, from 2 Dec 96 > I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a > good idea to install a overdrive. I was shocked when our local LR-dealer [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > anybody out there with a similar LR to mine who might tell me if I should > or shouldn't buy the overdrive. I have a 109 with a 2.25 petrol engine. The overdrive doesn't really give you much extra top speed, but it does make the higher speed quieter (less engine howl :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 131 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. Faculty web site : <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> Personal home pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Manifold Studs Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 08:31:00 EST The exhaust manifold to tailpipe studs can cause problems when they become corroded. The threads on either the nut to stud or stud to manifold joint become weakened and strip easily. Then when the nuts are tightened the joint seals for a while then comes loose again as the threads "slip". Solution is to replace studs and to helicoil the manifold . The plain portion on the studs, if they are the correct ones, is only 1/8" or thereabouts and the thickness of the exhaust flange itself plus one plain washer is enough to ensure the joint can be pulled ip tight. Use brass or stainless nuts plus plenty of nickel antisieze, don't overtighten the nuts and you will have a long and leakfree relationship. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov Date: 02 Dec 96 08:48:25 MST Subject: RE: Alternator rebuild FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 The basic snorkle construction seems fairly straight forward, but how do you plan to fit it to the top of the air cleaner? Does anyone know of a replacement for just that part? Thanks, What lies behind us and what lies #=======# _____l___ before us are tiny matters compared |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___ to what lies within us. | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ _ _|} Ralph Waldo Emerson "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 13:06:52 MST7 X-Olddate: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 13:05:33 MST X-Listname: azlro@stat.com From: rmodica@east.pima.edu Subject: RE: Alternator rebuild Anyway, I'm building a snorkle out of black PBC pipe and will put an additional aircleaner on top of it. If anybody's done it or has any suggestions on water proofing the air cleaner housing I'd appreciate it. I'm doing it for dust but I might as well do it for water as well. I'm thinking about sealing off the dump valve or atleast getting a plug so I can seal it before going in the deap. Thanks, Dirk Dirk-- There was some discussion on the LRO list about putting a snorkle on a V-8. I don't remember the details, buit it had to do with the volume of air a V-8 needs and the dynamics of how a snorkle works. If I recall correctly, the thread concluded that a genuine snorkle or a clone thereof was the best option by far. Rob ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Bothersome V8 Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 11:03:44 -0500 From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net> I have a '93 LWB which, for some time had a similar mysterious problem. It got to the point that on a cold day after a rain, the car just wouldn't turn over at all. I'm not saying that this is your problem, but my problem was difficult enough to diagnose that the vehicle ended up spending a fair amount of time in the shop (how many times can you hear "I told you we should have bought the suburban"). In fact, the 10 year age difference is probably enough to guarantee that this isn't your problem, but anyway. It turned out that part of the ignition timing (as was explained to me) rests under the rotor on the vehicle. The stray emf from the rotor was interfering with this timing unit. The fix was a kit from rover that moved the unit to the fender wall. I didn't have the time to dig into it further. I'm hoping for a shop manual for christmas :-). Jeff Young young@mci.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Land Rover then and now Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:26:56 -0800 As one of the "coilers" whose maybe emitted some "grumbles of frustration" as opposed to "screams of anguish"... I think most of the "screams of anguish" come from apparently misplaced or misdirected expectations. Should I buy a 25+ year old anything, Rover or otherwise, I would expect to perform some maintenance and be replacing a few parts. In the case of the Series Rovers, it's fortunate that they are easy to service. OTOH, when I pay $35,000+ for something that's brand new and billed as the "best 4x4xFar", "4 wheeler of the year", etc. my expectations are somewhat higher. So when little things start falling off (as a dozen or so nuts and bolts did on mine) the first month, or when various engine and drive-line parts are replaced every other month, the "experience" doesn't quite live up to my expectations. Fortunately, I've not had any "high tech" failures, on or off the road, nor do I really anticipate any (said with fingers crossed :-). Even though my expectations have been tempered a bit since I bought it, I still think the Discovery I bought last year is the best vehicle for my application. -- Bob W. '95 Discovery >Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 22:36:48 -0800 >From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 203 lines)] >understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net > -B ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:12:29 -0500 Subject: IIa oil filters Bill Leacock, inquired about IIa oil filters: Bill: Try the Fram CH834PL1. Comes with the o-ring. Around Denver these can be found at Checker (and other) auto parts stores. Farm & tractor supply houses often have them as they are used on some kind of farm equipment. The examples I bought locally, however, were made in England. Expect to pay between 4 and 6 bucks each. Also expect to get oil in your sleeve. Paul Donohue 1965 IIa 109 (with the optional oil leak system) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 11:30:24 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end John Putnam wrote: > snip > gear parts came out. This leaves me with the need to replace a rear end. = [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > British Pacific said he thinks the company name was KAM or CAM (maybe). = > Does anyone remember this. Could you please e-mail me via the list or = > direct at jdputnam@whpacific.com. Yup. KAM out of the UK. I don't remember if it was a manually lockable unit or not; the line drawings shown in a LROI article on this unit showed (if memory serves) a compressor mounted on the axle casing. I don't recall a manual overide mechanism for the locking device. KAM also manufactures other drive train odds and sods. There's also McNamara which I'm fairly sure can be (has to be?) manually operated. Sorry don't have addresses at hand, but could find them easily if needed; they routinely advertise in LROI (possibly also LRW but you might find it hard to get the remaining copies of this month's issue :) ). cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.lia.net> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:18:02 +0000 Subject: 50th Tour of South Africa For all you folks out there which have been waiting patiently for the details regarding the Land Rover Owner's Club of SA's grand tour of South and Southern Africa in 1998 to celebrate the birth of the Land Rover. Everyone in invited to take part in the full tour or part of it. You MUST be a menber of a local or interrnational 4WD club of sorts and you must own a LR. There is also a new page containing VISA INFORMATION for many african countries . Please feel free to print out this message and the itinarary to put it up at club meets and to give to your friends. Go and have a look. Brian's African Travel Guide http://www.dbn.lia.net/users/bcotton **note the new address** Cheers Brian Cotton SA ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 13:34:24 -0800 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: KAM lockers Jeremy and others write about: >a compressor mounted on the axle casing. Franklin (I think) has the KAM lockers. They're vacuum operated (or is that the Macnamara one?). Theory sez it has fewer things to go wrong than a pressurized system (lower stresses, won't freeze, no water problems, etc). I don't plan to install lockers. I prefer to think about all the money I've saved as I try to get unstuck or winch up a loose hill or wait for help. (I really like my home-made hydraulic winch, although I've only used it to help someone else, so far ;) JohnO ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:59:59 -0800 From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald) Subject: Re: home-made hydraulic winch > (I really like my home-made hydraulic winch, although I've only used it >to help >someone else, so far ;) >JohnO John can you give details on this home-made winch? Inquiring minds want to know. Paul Archibald paarch@ix.netcom.com (parch@smmff.com during the week at work) (510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336 '58 88" RHD 2-litre, rear Koenig '87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak) '92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love California ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:51:17 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> subscribe land-rover-owner ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 16:48:19 -0500 From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate) Subject: Zenith Carb Woes Gang, I'm having trouble with my spanking new Zenith carb (purchased and delivered without any trouble from LR Supermarket, by the way). When I initially installed and adjusted it, all was well. Shortly after though, during a weekend of off-roading, I noticed that the idle was becoming more and more unstable. Now it will not idle at all without choke applied. The idle screw is in as far as it will go, and I get no change in RPMs by turning the mixture screw one complete turn one way or the other. The truck seems to run OK on the road, but is only returning around 12 mpg (US). I have checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner on all the sealing unions, with no change in RPMs indicated. I seem to recall a semi-recent thread about Zeniths having a problem with an "extra" passage in the carb body that needed to be plugged when on a LR. Anybody got any first hand info on this "fix"? Any other guesses? This time of year, I'm more interested in hunting than mechanicing. Thanks, Scott Fugate ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:40:45 -0700 (MST) From: Addison <jraddiso@slate.Mines.EDU> Subject: Buick V8 conv'n I read a few months ago in LRW about V8 conversion done here in the States in the mid 60's. They used a Buick V8 and the design was implemented at the factory to produce the first V8 powered Land Rover. I happen to have a 350 out of my transmition-busted-can't-drive '72 Buick Skylark and was wondering about what it might take to exchange it for 2.25L petrol in my '69 88". Since there seems to some factory authorized precident and so on I thought this might just happen to be fairly striaght forward (for engine exchanges) and relatively sinless (for modifications). Does anyone know 1) the pros and cons of such an operation and 2) a very good conversion kit? I would only do it if I was convinced ahead of time that it will be fairly cheap and the result was absolutely solid. Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:44:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Strong Adhesives Trevor inquires about 5200: > Could it be used to attach steel plates to a "porous" chassis :-) If you get to bare metal (no rust) but I doubt it would be stiff enough. It is a flexible adhesive, which is part of the problem in breaking the joint. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 19:42:14 -0800 From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters Mark Perry wrote: > 1. Michel Bertrand pretty much sums up the Aro. I had a look at one out here > for sale once, for too much money. Underneath looked like a good knock-off [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)] > Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada > 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver > "It's noisier on the inside" Hi Mark: I put chains on my Land Rover. What a beast. It really pulls in the snow. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 18:35:06 -0800 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: Re: home-made hydraulic winch (long) Paul asked for it: >John can you give details on this home-made winch? Inquiring minds want to know. The hydraulic motor is an Adan geroter, 6.12 cu.in. unit rated at 2000in-lb at 2300psi. 513rpm at 15gpm. It weighs 18#. It is chain-drive to a large sprocket forming one end of the cable drum, which is 4inch diameter by 12inches long and holds 150feet of 3/8inch cable, plus 12feet of chain. (there's enough room on the drum for 250feet of cable, but I chickened out when I saw how big the 150foot roll was) The ratio is 4.5:1 The pump is a Northern Hydraulics two-stage log-splitter unit, 12gpm@600psi, 3.5gpm@2500psi, powered by a single v-belt from the engine. It's mounted where the alternator normally goes. It weighs 10# (The alternator is now up by the battery, where there's a convenient accessory mount on the marine versions) The pump runs all the time when the belt is tight, which I take off when it won't be needed. The front bumper holds 2.5 gallons of hydraulic fluid. The manual control valve is presently mounted right behind the bumper on the drivers side. A line can be tied to the handle for remote operation, but it will eventually have an electric valve. The filter is stacked right behind the valve. The valve is a "closed center" style, so the motor is locked when the valve is off. The valve has an adjustable relief to limit the hydraulic pressure, and therefore the line tension. The whole system weighs about 100#, including pump, motor, chain drive, spool, cable, valve, filter, oil, hoses and mounting brackets. I could leave the extra battery at home, but feel more confident having two in cold weather (diesel engine). The electric motor and worm gear drive alone weighed over 90#, so the weight saved is only about 40#, unless I get rid of the second battery. The bumper is probably around 50#, empty, but I'd use it anyway to protect the wings. Full throttle line speed is 143fpm up to a tension of about 1000 pounds (full drum), at which point the pump drops to low-volume/high pressure for about 35fpm/3000 pounds. Line tension is independant of engine speed. On the first layer, max line tension is 4500 pounds. Since it can be unspooled at full speed, there's no clutch. It might be nice to have in some situations, but this is simpler. In use, it's like a two-speed winch except it changes speed automatically and the speed is also controllable with the valve. It will pull up to 1000# at almost 2mph, which would get me up loose slopes or through mud where traction is not quite enough. If I need more than 4500 pounds pull, then I'm really stuck. I can then use a snatch block and have 9000#, which should be adequate. This replaces my home-made electric winch which only had 2000# pull on a full drum, 3000# on the first layer. I've never had a situation where I needed more pull to get myself unstuck, but it sometimes took everything the old system had. (caveat: to get other vehicles unstuck, such as a certain turbo-diesel D##ge up to it's bumper in mud, as a painful example, required a snatch block and three other vehicles (thanks John Benham, Jim Gwynn, and whoever else helped) pulling at the same time. It cost me a battery and a hook) It's almost silent, which was an unexpected surprise. I hadn't really noticed how noisy electric winches are. Enough bandwidth for now. Contact me directly if you want to know more. John O '64 109 5-door deezil "Safari-SoGoodi", with a gazillon miles on both remaining original parts. ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 18:40:14 -0700 From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen) Subject: Re: Buick V8 conv'n > I read a few months ago in LRW about V8 conversion done here in the >States in the mid 60's. They used a Buick V8 and the design was [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >precident and so on I thought this might just happen to be fairly striaght >forward (for engine exchanges) and relatively sinless (for modifications). The 350 is a whole different animal than the 215. Not only is it cast iron (600 lbs) but it has the later BOP bellhousing pattern that differs from the aluminum Buick/Rovers. This will make it a custom adapation. The stock LR tranny isn't up to the job unless you pussyfoot around and the rest of the drivetrain will need upgrade to handle the power. Putting a 350 in your Rover ain't no girley job, mon.If you mate an autobox between the 350 and the stock Rover t-case, you might have half a chance to keep teh drivetrain alive without major expense. Besides the engine/gearbox adapation, you'll have to completely redesign the steering column, design a cooling system (not easy because of the small frontal area) and fabricate mounts. The starter may interfere with the front driveshaft. These are the high spots. Myriad details await. Let us know what you decide. Jim Allen ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com> Subject: Progress on YOUR LR photo Archive! Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:07:07 -0500 Hello to one and all, Thanks to Sorel and Jakob Vels, as well as Ross, for your contributions. = The archive is getting close to 100 photos. For One month old that is = not too shabby. PLEASE contribute photos of any concievable LR and, or their variable = attachments. Please post for scanning (originals will be returned ASAP) to Rod = Steele, 34 Luster Drive, Batesville, AR, USA, 72501, or email to me @ = <rsteele@intellinet.com>. The Archive will be placed on the Net when of a more modest size. Thank you, Rod Steele ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Ruffer" <rruffer@world2u.com> Subject: Radiator Muffs Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 21:41:51 -0500 Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better. Thanks for any thoughts. Rich Ruffer Morristown, NJ rruffer@world2u.com '94 D90 http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Pat Hubbard <patito@sh3.com> Subject: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:30:53 -0600 Can someone help identify a strange engine sound? After I replaced the cylinder head on a just-purchased 67 Series IIA the = engine now has a rattle when first started. The noise sounds like = something not being lubricated and goes away after 5-6 seconds. If the = engine is shut off and restarted within 2-3 minutes the noise does not = occur, but after 4-5 minutes of being stopped it will be back. The noise seems to be up high in the block/cylinder head. The rocker = shaft seems to be getting enough oil. I dropped the pan and rebuilt the = oil pump, changed the oil filter and checked the oil line to the head = for blockage, but the noise won't go away. Oh, also refilled the = crankcase. A check of the big/small rod ends found none loose. To rule = out the water pump and generator I have started the engine with the fan = belt off. No change. Are there any characteristic 2.25-l engine sounds that maybe I didn't = originally hear because it was running on only 2 cylinders? Thanks for your attention. ------------------------------------- Patrick Hubbard '67 Series IIA 88" HT '96 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: brstore@Default.ibm.net Date: Mon, 2 Dec 96 23:08:34 PST Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs Rich I caved yesterday and winterized my 88 by putting on the rad muff and swaping the canvas for the hard top. I found warm ups much quicker last winter with the rad muff in place and the engine ran hot enough to give me some pretty decent heat. Course it also helps that I'm running with a 88 deg C thermostat. If you want to try it for yourself, just stick a piece of cardboard or metal behind your grill and see if it improves things at all. When it's at or below freezing I don't have any problems with overheating when the front is completly covered but on warmer days you don't want to forget to keep an eye on the gauge and mayby open up the front a bit. BTW, a rad muff comes in very handy when deep wading during the rest of the year. Good luck and stay warm Brett <Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed <reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better. Thanks for any thoughts. Rich Ruffer Morristown, NJ rruffer@world2u.com '94 D90 http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:50:31 -0600 From: Don Scott Wallace <swallace@flash.net> Subject: Information on 1990 to 1993 Range Rover County "HELP" I need more input!?!?!?!?!?!? Thanks for your time. I was told this was the forum to ask my questions. Please send you responses directly to me "swallace@flash.net" my first questions follow: I am considering the purchase of a 1991 to 1993 Range Rover County but, I have yet to find any substantial information on the auto. As this will be my daily driver, I need to know if there are any nagging problems (electrical or mech.) with the vehicle. In other words "what=92s the dirt?" I've heard that the Lucus electrical system was put into the auto up to some year (which yr. I'm not sure) and could be a problem. (true/false & which yr.) I also need to know what the vehicle and engine's life expectancy is. What type of work I can do myself (alternator, water pump) or is it best left to professionals. Can some or many of the auto=92s parts be switched out with American part from a local parts house? Your help will be greatly appreciated. :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:02:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Zenith Carb Woes Scott, from the Archives, here at Vintage Rover Service, the following: It sounds like your carb has an airleak in it somewhere. The Zenith Body is prone to warping due to inadequate heat treatment at the factory. If the likely culprits are all good, (the vacuum connectiions and air cleaner inlet), then the body itself may be leaking between the upper and lower bodies; or the emulsifer block and upper body. If they are leaking, you will notice a brown to black stain from fuel around the joints. Also look at the fuel economizer cover. To correct the emulsifying block and upper/lower body leaks, sand them flat with a piece of emery cloth on a piece of glass. Take an equal amount of off each and clean the ports out with compressed air and very soft wire. Be VERY careful not to enlarge any of the jets or ports while doing so. After the compressed air, you can use a can of carb cleaner to make sure that fluid is going the proper way through the circuits. The low speed circuit with its small diameters is prone to clogging after any sanding. To fix the economy cover you may need a new gasket. You are correct in that screwing the mixture screw out enrichens the mixture. Best of Luck. Harry Edwards Las Vegas 72 Series III BritPac (?) has a memo on which hole to plug, but I planed mine and it works fine, or will again after I finish this engine rebuild! Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way! 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:18 -0500 From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com> Subject: Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters At 01:55 AM 12/2/96 -0600, Mark Perry wrote: >2. Went to magnificent new location of bookshop where I normally get my >LROI and discovered the first copy of LRW I'd seen - yes *that* issue. - Oh my gosh! >............................................ As for the "naughty bits" >- OK for Easyriders, I suppose, and since someone like Calvin Klein wasn't >paying for the space, out of place in general, and certainly in an LR >magazine. - Why?? What do we talk about when we're not talking about Rovers or beer? >.......... OTOH, there's a woman here in Canada who spends time in >court arguing that those bits aren't naughty and there's no reason for >them to be covered up, weather permitting. - There's a group of women in Rochester, NY that argued that point for a few years. The end result was that it is now legal for women to go topless (or "topfree") in public in New York - as long as they aren't doing it for profit. More power to 'em, I say. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:20 -0500 From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com> Subject: Re: Overdrive Marko sez... >I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a >good idea to install a overdrive. I was shocked when our local LR-dealer >gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is >no use in installing it to models with petrol engines. Sounds like a load of crapola to me. The OD unit is real nice for highway cruising... and you get that "big trucker" feeling with an extra lever to fiddle around with! Did the "shocking" price include dealer installation? If so, find out about just buying the overdrive and install it yourself. It's pretty simple. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:19 -0500 From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com> Subject: Re: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...) Gee, Dave... At 10:15 AM 12/2/96 EST, you wrote: >Mike tries to explain the inner workings of the Series x-fer box... ............................ > And the leg bone's connected to the hip bone...and the knee bone's conected >to the leg bone...etc.etc... - I was kind of thinking that as I wrote.... >Don't tell us YOU'RE going to start writing tutorials too...:-) - No... I was bored... but *now* I've got the December issure of LRW, so I'm not bored anymore... 8-O Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:19:36 -0500 Subject: Re: oil filter Bill, maybe these numbers will help: Filters are Caterpiller 676228 World Parts W 27-370 Delco AC-72 Fram CH-834PL1 Hastings P-186 Kralinator L-532 Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way! 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:28:11 -0500 Subject: Re: Land Rover Trek '96 Land Rover Owner International has a nice feature on Trek 96. The farm where it was held is actually in Social Circle, Georgia, east of Atlanta. That red clay is the stuff we've all heard about. Doesn't wash out very well, either. Did anyone run tape on that? I don't get ESPN2, as far as I know. Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way! 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:32:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end Jim Allen offered this the other week: > Jack Mac has a goodly number of other products. Their hypoid diff >(just got some pics) is the most bulletproof thing I've ever seen! Call [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >also makes a great locker. Bill just recently negociated both USA >distributorships. As for the KAM, Dec LROI shows one on the article on the Blue D90, going to Russia. Looks like the KAM is air driven. Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA KF4NAS 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way! 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:37:06 -0300 From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian) Subject: Re: D90 oil filters While we're on the subject, how about a US filter to replace the 3.9 long filter?? Steven Paustian AKA Generalissimo Chaos (Al U. Minium) President, Flatland Rover Society 04/500 D90SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:02:49 -0800 (PST) From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net> Subject: 1972 SIII Questions I have a couple of questions about my S III. 1. What year were the first sIII imported into the USA? 2. When did LR switch from the solid wind deflecter in the dash to the one that lets air pass through? My rover has the solid dash. 3. Did they switch from the IIa window latches to the other type at the same time? Mine has the old style latches with the holes for the later style blanked off. I can't seem to find the information in any of the books. As always thank you in advance, Rover On, Blair Blair Gillespie San Luis Obispo Ca. USA 1988 Range Rover 1972 Land Rover 88 1967 FLH HD ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 07:54:26 +0100 (MET) Scott Davies writes: | Downside of the 2.5D with permanent 4WD is the fuel economy is hellish, 22 | mpg on a good day. Hey, what?!! That's 12.8l/100km. Mine just takes 10.5l/100km (=26.9 mpg) BTW. that not more that every series owner I know claimed for his landy. | Top speed is also unimpressive, 68mph downhill with the | wind behind you, 50mph if you're into a headwind. On flat ground mine goes about 110km/h easily, but I usually stick to about 90km/h to safe my ears. ;-) How many km err! miles does yours have? Mine just has 78000km on the clock, now. I'd probaly have the injection point adjusted if I were you. cu. Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: Buick V8 conv'n Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:44:39 +-100 Addison[SMTP:jraddiso@slate.Mines.EDU] wrote: I happen to have a 350 out of my transmition-busted-can't-drive '72 Buick Skylark and was wondering about what it might take to exchange it for 2.25L petrol in my '69 88". You will probably have some problems with the connection between engine and bellhouse. But what is Your intention with this swap? just to have more cubicinches? If used for its real idea, OFFROAD work, You will need more momentum in wery low rpm. The buick 215 was modified by Rover, to have this, but then the highspeed power disappered. If You want to go offroad, go for the engine with high angular momentum below 1500 rpm. If You want a street racemachine, You need the power at the top. This is always the problem if You take an engine from a streetcar. Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(BD(`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`' !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&<`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W M;F5R0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970`4TU44 !,86YD+5)O=F5R+4]W;F5R M0$QA;F0M4F]V97(N5&5A;2Y.970``!X``C !````!0```%--5% `````'@`# M, $````E````3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T M``````,`%0P!`````P#^#P8````>``$P`0```"<````G3&%N9"U2;W9E<BU/ M=VYE<D!,86YD+5)O=F5R+E1E86TN3F5T)P```@$+, $````J````4TU44#I, M04Y$+5)/5D52+4]73D520$Q!3D0M4D]615(N5$5!32Y.150````#```Y```` M``L`0#H!`````@'V#P$````$`````````R=.`0B !P`8````25!-+DUI8W)O M<V]F="!-86EL+DYO=&4`,0@!!( !`!0```!213H@0G5I8VL@5C@@8V]N=B=N M`/@%`06 `P`.````S <,``,`"0`L`"<``@! `0$@@ ,`#@```,P'# `#``D` M'0`L``(`-@$!"8 !`"$````R-31#04,P1$5$-$-$,#$Q.3A&,3 P-C X0T-& M,S4S-P`P!P$#D 8`X 0``!(````+`",```````,`)@``````"P`I```````# M`#8``````$ `.0#@PC\X]N"[`1X`< `!````% ```%)%.B!"=6EC:R!6."!C M;VYV)VX``@%Q``$````6`````;O@]C@X#:Q,)DSM$="8\0!@C,\U-P``'@`> M# $````%````4TU44 `````>`!\,`0````\```!B8D!O;&EV971T:2YD:P`` M`P`&$!FM?/8#``<0C (``!X`"! !````90```$%$1$E33TY33510.DI2041$ M25-/0%-,051%34E.15-%1%574D]413I)2$%04$5.5$](059%03,U,$]55$]& M35E44D%.4TU)5$E/3BU"55-4140M0T%.5"U$4DE613<R0E5)0TL``````@$) M$ $```!O`P``:P,``'D%``!,6D9U: _W]O\`"@$/`A4"J 7K`H,`4 +R"0(` M8V@*P'-E=#(W!@`&PP*#,@/%`@!P<D)Q$>)S=&5M`H,S-P+D!Q,"@S0$1A,S M,2"["%4"@'T*@ C/"=D[%\]X,C4U`H *@0VQ"V!N\&<Q,#,-\ L*%6$+\AIC M`$ @"H4*BVQI,00X, +1:2TQ-#3/#? ,T!Z3"UDQ-@J@`V#%$]!C!4!!9&0$ M``(@`%M33510.FIR,F$@PT!S"V 3T"Y-@PN !Y N141571N/*19 ('<@0CH= M+3,V3Q\W%%$+\B V22 1@' B< GP('1O)U%V98 @82 S-3 @"&#!!4!O9B!M M>2? (9 A`(!M:71I`B M8B)U$\%D+6,`<"=T+"UD!1 H(2<!P"!"$'5I8VL< MIE-K>:T+8'(KP !P9"1 800@[G<"( 2!"X!G*$ &X"C!'G<1@ 5 *; I$&EG M:)L%0 &0:R@P)]%E>!%Q?QK0*# NH0(0'0\EKR G,O(N&@!,(">0*5 &\"Z0 M`P.@*2$G-CD@.#C<(BX*X2,Z'*U9"& D0-<#$ ,@(#%B`:!L*3 H`W<@\ > M-U-L$^ M,2FP:.TGP&@H, 6@;B*0(( IT?4<IF(1P'<)X2^@&M B@;<LPSK0 M-S!H"& 1L"X*A?\K@"XV!" VT07 "X 3T (P'SHB.24]H0/@)W _(&H_*B$G MQPJ%!& 7T#F@=6*O*Z +@!%P!Y _"H5)*0#_/&$L\#!R*; $(!?0!T ND $- ML&$L($]&1E+X3T%$+4$LH$00-M<BD)]"T4$#0)<'@ (P=6TT`AT[`'(I,!=@ M!^!R<&T=-.!4.8$J$"NB,C$U_RT#!&$&D B0.^$I, J%" #]*"!R1! GUC\2 M1! J$"\1WSF )[$Y@3\@+O!S)Y!"T?9P1] $D" @T2=R%]$\EN]"@3;3`' _ M\V<GX"CP`U'_(:!$$$_1,'(Y<CM5.2-,POL<IAK!=2R!1J@\`4?120#_'C!' M\TY_!4 H4!/ "=$%0/TAD&,3X #0/R BD$3T1:._.7)-9"YQ"H4Y<B?0<#R6 M_PJ%2% ]H3VA!T M$!.P5]3_.*0ND$[T+S,#D3M5`U(H0=<*A584*H!R69U( M)W$I,#=*HRVQ'+Q"/E$K<&]EOF@XT!&@'+P<O!;Q`&2 ``,`$! ``````P`1 M$ ````! ``<P0,SR(O3@NP% ``@P0,SR(O3@NP$>`#T``0````4```!213H@ &`````,IH ` end ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 96 00:27 PST From: Brad Krohn/Deborah Shannon <rover@europa.com> Subject: Series 2A Oil Filters (US) Bill: One Series IIA oil filter is the Fram CH834PL1, which then should cross reference to a Purolator and other makes. Never have found anything but the Fram, though - and I think my PO (who has three-plus other LR) makes sure the local parts places keep them in stock. <Brad/#6/PDX/OR/USA '69 IIA 88 =========================================================== "Rover? Who Drives It?" "That would be telling..." --The Prisoner =========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs Date: Tue, 3 Dec 96 8:45:33 GMT > Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed > reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my > soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better. Thanks for any > thoughts. I've had mine on for about a week now, and not sure if its making much difference. I tried to work it through. With a thermostat in the cooling system, the time before the thermostat opens is going to be about the same, but once it opens, warming-up should be quicker, as should the top temperature. (good for the heater - hard or cold top). Of course, the heater is heating outside air (it is on my III), so if its frosty, then you've only solved half the problem as it were. - you're trying to warm very cold air, with water that's slightly warmer than before. I have an oil cooler. Does the oil system have a thermostat in it? If not, then I can see that the muff should make quite a difference to warming up? Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 09:48:00 PST I have been getting a similar rattle from my 2.5 Diesel, I haven't been able to track it down. If I use my engine pre-heater the rattle doesn't occur; this suggests to me that it is a clearance problem somewhere, not an oil feed problem (though it could be that warm oil is flowing better). The onset of the rattle coincided with the first sub 5 degrees centigrade nights. I thought that it sounded like tappet rattle but I've adjusted these with out any success in curing the rattle. Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT with 98,500 on the clock ---------- From: Pat Hubbard Subject: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start Date: 02 December 1996 22:30 Can someone help identify a strange engine sound? After I replaced the cylinder head on a just-purchased 67 Series IIA the = engine now has a rattle when first started. The noise sounds like = something not being lubricated and goes away after 5-6 seconds. If the = engine is shut off and restarted within 2-3 minutes the noise does not = occur, but after 4-5 minutes of being stopped it will be back. The noise seems to be up high in the block/cylinder head. The rocker = shaft seems to be getting enough oil. I dropped the pan and rebuilt the = oil pump, changed the oil filter and checked the oil line to the head = for blockage, but the noise won't go away. Oh, also refilled the = crankcase. A check of the big/small rod ends found none loose. To rule = out the water pump and generator I have started the engine with the fan = belt off. No change. Are there any characteristic 2.25-l engine sounds that maybe I didn't = originally hear because it was running on only 2 cylinders? Thanks for your attention. ------------------------------------- Patrick Hubbard '67 Series IIA 88" HT '96 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 3 Dec 96 6:26:52 EST Subject: Re: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 06:45:39 -500 Subject: Seeking Metal Pedals I'm seeking a set of the standard issue metal pedal pads, the almost square waffle stamped parts with raised lip edge, welded to the pedal pendant arms. The part you step on, both clutch and brake. Thanks! Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 62 lines 2766 [forwarded 375 whitespace 637] Output: lines 1965 [content 1347 forwarded 121 (cut 254) whitespace 570] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961203 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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