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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob18Re: Land Rover then and now
2 ericz@cloud9.net 44Land Rover Trek '96
3 ericz@cloud9.net 33Re: Hi-Back Seats
4 twakeman@scruznet.com (T34Re: Land Rover then and now
5 twakeman@scruznet.com (T35Re: Land Rover then and now
6 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies19Re: Land Rover then and now
7 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh75RE: Land Rover then and now
8 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi17Re: "Any body need..."
9 Franz Parzefall [franz@m27Re: Land Rover then and now
10 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us17Land Rover then and now...more fuel ...
11 Marko Ylikorpi [marko.yl17Overdrive
12 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us13Diesel mileage
13 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies16RE: Diesel mileage
14 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi30Re: Anti-seize cross referance
15 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob40Re[2]: Land Rover then and now
16 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi27Re: oil filter
17 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi27Re: oil filter
18 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@cdr.wi19Re: oil filter
19 TPrecord@aol.com 9Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
20 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies12re: diesel mileage
21 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob21Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)
22 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob14Re: clyinder head
23 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M12Re: Overdrive
24 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D14Strong Adhesives
25 "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu23Re: Overdrive
26 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D16Manifold Studs
27 debrown@srp.gov 48RE: Alternator rebuild
28 "Jeff Young" [young@mci.21[not specified]
29 Bob Watson [bobw@microso36RE: Land Rover then and now
30 DONOHUEPE@aol.com 18IIa oil filters
31 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet25Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end
32 "Brian Cotton" [Brian.Co2950th Tour of South Africa
33 jouster@rocket.com (John19KAM lockers
34 paarch@ix.netcom.com (Pa20Re: home-made hydraulic winch
35 Allan Smith [smitha@cand5[not specified]
36 m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fu25Zenith Carb Woes
37 Addison [jraddiso@slate.19Buick V8 conv'n
38 Wdcockey@aol.com 14Re: Strong Adhesives
39 David Place [dplace@mb.s16Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters
40 jouster@rocket.com (John66Re: home-made hydraulic winch (long)
41 jimallen@onlinecol.com (26Re: Buick V8 conv'n
42 Rod Steele [rsteele@inte24Progress on YOUR LR photo Archive!
43 "Richard Ruffer" [rruffe16Radiator Muffs
44 Pat Hubbard [patito@sh3.31Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
45 brstore@Default.ibm.net 37Re: Radiator Muffs
46 Don Scott Wallace [swall37Information on 1990 to 1993 Range Rover County "HELP"
47 Solihull@aol.com 38Re: Zenith Carb Woes
48 Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b30Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters
49 Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b22Re: Overdrive
50 Mike Loiodice [landrvr@b23Re: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)
51 Solihull@aol.com 20Re: oil filter
52 Solihull@aol.com 17Re: Land Rover Trek '96
53 Solihull@aol.com 21Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end
54 rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa12Re: D90 oil filters
55 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp221972 SIII Questions
56 Franz Parzefall [franz@m29Re: Land Rover then and now
57 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh75RE: Buick V8 conv'n
58 Brad Krohn/Deborah Shann19Series 2A Oil Filters (US)
59 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u25Re: Radiator Muffs
60 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies46RE: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
61 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5Re: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
62 "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@10Seeking Metal Pedals


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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 07:59:14 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now

TerriAnn writes:

>happens when these high tech wonders really start to age and break down on
>a trail in the middle of nowhere?  Are you guys going to need to start
>carrying around, diagnostic computers, tonnes of relays, ECUs, injection
>pumps, & special sensors?

Nah, the smart ones 'll just rip all that crap out...stick a coupla SU's on that
V8, and...
then the others can sell em to us cheap so's we can do the same.

Dave B.
72 SIII SWB with very few remaining emission control parts...

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:15:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Land Rover Trek '96

Lounging around after dinner last night I got a call from a friend of mine:  
"There's some Land Rover thing on chnnel 59 you might want to watch...."  
Quickly, I ran down to the firehouse (I live in the boonies, no cable) and there 
it was, on ESPN2, an hour-long LR infomercial, the report of the Land Rover Trek 
'96.

For those who had never heard of this even before (including me) it goes like 
this:  Each dealership sends down three of its people (usually young service 
types) to compete it a CT-esque set of tasks.  They ran 5 spd Discos decked out 
with the requisite roof rack, decals (lots), lights, woefully inadequeate skid 
plate, etc.  Really an fancier version of the Alimunium Man triathlon that takes 
place at the ROAV rally each year.

Events included.  Night Orienteering...self explanitory.
Autocross: Same as those that take place in the car parks but on dirt and you 
get time added for hitting cones.
Canoe task: Canoe around a pond, picking up lug nuts and a wheel to then place 
back on the vehicle.
Trials course: traditional trials, similar to ARC but it seems 'shunts' are 
allowed. Off-road quite light, really.
TSD event:  Off-road time-speed-distance event, light dirt road type stuff.
Final Challenge:  head to head event involving wiching, moving logs, etc.  
Probably the most exciting part of the event.

All in all, was probably a great time for everyone involved.  Seemed like a 
cheezy dog and pony show, though.  I know the purpose of these events is exactly 
that, but the presentation was just too contrived.  Everything was set up so 
that damage was almost impossible to vehicles and getting stuck was almost 
impossible.  Was a good show for tread lightly, though.  No super-stomper-mudder 
-gonna-drive-over-your-Honda-and-spit-chaw-all-over-the-place-so-I-can-drink-my-
budweiser....attitude there.

For me, the best part were the LR adverts that aired in between segments of the 
show.  Didn't get a chance to tape it though.  Anyone got a copy?  There a 
couple Guinness in it for ya!  :)

Rgds,
Eric

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:15:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hi-Back Seats

On Sun, 01 Dec 1996, Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Could you let me know about the CRX swap also?  Are you using the Honda's 
>seatbelts too?

Neil,
Finished up on Saturday...been testing out the setup for a couple days.  The 
width of the seat is fine and the additional support works well.  

I used the original LR seat tracks, just relocated them rearwards and inward to 
line up on the holes in the seats.  The fronts of the tracks are hinged to allow 
access to the seat bases.  Spacers are placed between the tracks and the seats. 
 At this point the seats are a bit too high, the spacers need to be reduced.

Another problem is that the seat backs don't come forward enough.  I've got to 
take apart the reclining mechanism to see if it can be modified.  

I didn't use the Honda belts.  I had installed LR inertia reel belts earlier.

Net effect: the comfort level is great.  Ideally, a higher windscreen would make 
the setup better.  It takes a bit of work trying to get everything straightened 
out and aligned properly but with patience it is definitely worth it.

When I get a few spare minutes, I'll take some pictures and post them on my web 
page.

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 05:31:29 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now

At 10:23 AM 12/2/96 +0100, Franz Parzefall wrote:

>TeriAnn,
>there are a couple of coilers out there, that combine the goodies of
;both, the leaf and the coil sprung Land Rovers. My 110 still has
>absolutely no electronic on its 2.5l normal aspirated diesel (and
;of course nowhere else, too). Repairing this heap of birmabright is
>as simple as working on my friends SIII 109.
;Of course Land Rover cheated you Americans and didn't export them
>to you.
;
>Happy rovering.
>Franz

Franz,
It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler.  With a 2.5L yours will
have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rino too though.  You have
the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for.

Unfortunatly in the US the coilers have electronic everything.  The
Defenders are more basic with less electronics but is still dependant upon
complicated high tech systems in the engine.  One of our local people was
standed miles from nowhere when the inside petrol tank fuel pump stopped
working on his new Defender.  If he had a new pump for his new car, I
understand that he would have had to drop the tank to replace it.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 05:45:07 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now

At  7:59 AM 12/2/96 -0500, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

>TerriAnn writes:
;
>>It seems a major part of the Land Rover experience is mantenence.  What
>>happens when these high tech wonders really start to age and break down on
;>a trail in the middle of nowhere?  Are you guys going to need to start
>>carrying around, diagnostic computers, tonnes of relays, ECUs, injection
>>pumps, & special sensors?
;
;Nah, the smart ones 'll just rip all that crap out...stick a coupla SU's
>on that V8, and...
>then the others can sell em to us cheap so's we can do the same.
;
>Dave B.
>72 SIII SWB with very few remaining emission control parts...
;
This solution, while making sense to me, is not an option for Americans.
These cars will spend their existences being visually inspected for the
existence of all the SMOG equipment and have to pass a periodic SMOG test.
I assume this means that the engines will not get in as bad shape as some
owners have allowed their 2.25L engines to get into.

What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major
expensive engine work to pass SMOG?  Maybe a lot of the coilers will never
see 25 years.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:00:00 PST

Downside of the 2.5D with permanent 4WD is the fuel economy is hellish, 22 
mpg on a good day. Top speed is also unimpressive, 68mph  downhill with the 
wind behind you, 50mph if you're  into a headwind. Despite this I still love 
my landie, but with hindsight I should have gone for a late 109.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT

 ----------
From: twakeman
It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler.  With a 2.5L yours will
have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rhino too though.  You have
the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for.

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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Land Rover then and now
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:02:58 +-100

TeriAnn Wakeman[SMTP:twakeman@scruznet.com] wrote:>Dave B.

What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major
expensive engine work to pass SMOG?  Maybe a lot of the coilers will never
see 25 years.

Why not ??
The 110 coilers will do 25 as easy as the 109.
I am sure about that, I have a 1983 V8, and have been driving 
more than 240000 Km (150000miles), and is still going strong.
next major controll of the engine will be at 300000Km.
I never expext to change my 110, ???
if the new taxregulations will let me have the economicaly 
possibility to keep it. European Union are bribed from 
the car industry, to make it impossible to drive vith an 
engine larger than 1000 ccm (61 cubic inch), just to make 
all people buy a new small car.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:13:32 +0000
Subject: Re: "Any body need..."

Paul Hanson. I've been trying to e-mail you, but your system bounces 
my mail? What's your correct address?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:00:20 +0100 (MET)

TeriAnn,
| It sounds to me like you have the perfect coiler.  With a 2.5L yours will
| have to withstand the charge of an adult bull rino too though. 
I didn't try with rhinos since they are a bit rare here in Germany. But
someone shortend his Misubishi L300 by about 30cm at my side panel just 
behind the rear wheel. Was no big deal. 250$ for the mechanic, a sheet
of alu and some pop rivets....

| You have the one type of Land Rover I would trade my 1109 two door for.
                                                       ^^^^
Didn't know they made a that long one for the US ;-)

cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 9:14:28 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Land Rover then and now...more fuel ...

Perhaps it's just my smelly old diesel inclination, but it would seem to 
me that it's well worth the effort to rip out that chunk of re-animated 
GM poo and replace it with a tidy little Ford Powerstroke or Cummins 
Turbo Diesel. No smog checks and no electronic gizmos to pop an anurism 
whilst one dips below the waves. Then, my friends, you'd have a truck 
that will withstand more than a herd of rhinoscerae...30 years ?, no 
problem mon....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 16:21:45 +0200
From: Marko Ylikorpi <marko.ylikorpi@ltk.hut.fi>
Subject: Overdrive

Hello Rover friends,

I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a
good idea to install a overdrive.  I was shocked when our local LR-dealer
gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is
no use in installing it to models with petrol engines.  Is there anybody out
there with a similar LR to mine who might tell me if I should or shouldn't
buy the overdrive.

Cheers,

YK

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 9:21:35 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel mileage

22 mpg is bad? For a 2 ton truck, anything over 15 is pretty impressive. 
Want mileage? Forget about driving a Land Rover.   Mhrrgh,...diesel good 
!!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Diesel mileage
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:37:00 PST

Remember I'm talking UK gallons, a friend gets 28 mpg from his 109 so I 
think 22 is pretty poor show from a newer vehicle. It still won't stop me 
keeping the landie.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------

22 mpg is bad? For a 2 ton truck, anything over 15 is pretty impressive.
Want mileage? Forget about driving a Land Rover.   Mhrrgh,...diesel good
!!

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:40:37 +0000
Subject: Re: Anti-seize cross referance

> Does anyone have a cross referance to a U.S. made product for "Rocol
> Anti-Seize Compound Foliac J166". This is a paste which is used between the
> engine head and the exhaust manifold.

Don't know about that, but for the last 20 odd years I've been using 
NeverSeeze(tm). Snap-on sells it off their trucks, International 
Harverster (Navistar) sells it with their label, and alot of pipe 
supply houses (the ones that sell industrial supplies) sell it as 
it's used heavily by pipefitters. I think Grainger may sell it also.
You can get it in regular, nuclear grade (contains nickel= higher 
temp, toxic) and food grade (for those who cook on their engine)
Mixed with a bit of oil, it makes a great cutting oil also. It's a 
good conductor of heat (unlike some anti seeze) so use it on your 
spark plugs.
Oh, and did I mention I like it?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 09:46:10 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Land Rover then and now

;
This solution, while making sense to me, is not an option for Americans.
>These cars will spend their existences being visually inspected for the
>existence of all the SMOG equipment and have to pass a periodic SMOG test.

This just in California, maybe a few other states? Probably soon enough 
everywhere else though, huh...??

>I assume this means that the engines will not get in as bad shape as some
>owners have allowed their 2.25L engines to get into.

Probably not. If they do, they'll either go to junk or to folks who can rebuild 
em...

>What happens when the value of the car is down and it requires major
>expensive engine work to pass SMOG?  Maybe a lot of the coilers will never
>see 25 years.

In Viriginia, right now, any gas powered car over 20 years old is not required 
to pass emissions. The safety inspector may do a visible smoke test, though. If 
this holds out for another seventeen years then we can start modifying these 
d90's however we want. Not counting on that though...

I've often wnodered what's going to happen to all these elcetronic wonders when 
their wiring harnesses go the way of so much frayed insulation. Seems the 
strictly mechanical systems of the vehicle will be the only thing left 
standing...personally, I'd be happy to own one like that, considering it can be 
bought for under $1k...

Also I'm curious whether the newer engines and gearboxes will prove to be as 
long-lived as some of the older ones. Seems to me simplicity was the key to the 
longevity of Series vehicles...

later
Dave B.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:47:55 +0000
Subject: Re: oil filter

> Is ther a US equivalent or manufacturers part number for a ser 2A oil filter ?
>  Regards  Bill Leacock

                   short           long                   6cyl
AC                72             FF50                FF24
FRAM       CH834pl1      CH822PL          CH853PL
NAPA          1099                                  1315
Hastings      P-186          P-191
Purolator                        MF150A
Wix                                                      PC315D

Not all of the above filters are still available.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:03:18 +0000
Subject: Re: oil filter

Don't know how it looked to you all, but the formating on my oil 
filter post was screwing to me, so here it is again.

AC  72(short);  FF509long);  FF24(6cyl)
FRAM CH834pl1(short) CH822PL (long); CH853PL(6cyl)
NAPA 1099(short) 1315(6cyl)
Hastings P-186(short) P-191(long);
Purolator MF150A(long);
Wix  PC315D(6cyl)
 
 Not all of the above filters are still available.
 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:08:31 +0000
Subject: Re: oil filter

> Don't know how it looked to you all, but the formating on my oil 
> filter post was screwing to me, so here it is again.

oops, a typo. must have been the effect of the Dec LRW. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
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From: TPrecord@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:06:51 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 96-12-02 07:24:02 EST, you write:

 	  Contents: >>

------------------------------
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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: re: diesel mileage
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 14:56:00 PST

Just did a quick calculation; following the BUDGET here in the UK (5% tax 
hike on diesel) my annual diesel bill for 12000 miles is set to top US$2500. 
Does that explain why I would like better fuel economy?

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT (All donations to the fuel fund gratefully 
received :-))

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 10:15:38 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)

Mike tries to explain the inner workings of the Series x-fer box...

>How it all works... (this is a real Rube Goldberg...)

>The red knob is attached to the transfer gear selector shaft. This shaft
>moves the transfer gear for high and low range  

...lots of confusing drivel snipped... 
 

 And the leg bone's connected to the hip bone...and the knee bone's conected to 
the leg bone...etc.etc... 

Don't tell us YOU'RE going to start writing tutorials too...:-)

Dave B.

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 10:18:35 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: clyinder head

>What's the deal with replacing der wasser pumpen. $250.00
>no rebuild kits. Is this real? 

Yes its real. Last time I checked there were rebuilfd kits available. Requries a
press or creative use of your bumper and a bottle jack. Try one of the 
aftermarket suppliers for a less expensive replacement. Then you can rebuild 
yours and have it as a spare.

Dave B.

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:23:42 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Overdrive

 have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a
good idea to install a overdrive.  I was shocked when our local LR-dealer
>gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is
>no use in installing it to models with petrol engines.
Why not? Did he say?Never heard *that* one before.
Rgds
Mike Rooth

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Strong Adhesives
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 08:15:00 EST

Do not use 5200 unless you are absolutely sure the joint will never need
disassembling, and then only if you are going to sell the LR to someone you
don't know who lives far away. It is an extremely strong adhesive.

Says
David Cockey

Could it be used to attach steel plates to a "porous" chassis :-)

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From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:32:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Overdrive

Quoting Marko Ylikorpi, from  2 Dec 96

> I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a
> good idea to install a overdrive.  I was shocked when our local LR-dealer
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> anybody out there with a similar LR to mine who might tell me if I should
> or shouldn't buy the overdrive.
I have a 109 with a 2.25 petrol engine.

The overdrive doesn't really give you much extra top speed, but it does 
make the higher speed quieter (less engine howl :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 

 Faculty web site  : <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>
Personal home pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------
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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Manifold Studs
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 08:31:00 EST

The exhaust manifold to tailpipe studs can cause problems when they become 
corroded. The threads on either the nut to stud or stud to manifold joint 
become weakened and strip easily. Then when the nuts are tightened the joint 
seals for a while then comes loose again as the threads "slip". Solution is 
to replace studs and to helicoil the manifold . The plain portion on the 
studs, if they are the correct ones, is only 1/8" or thereabouts and the 
thickness of the exhaust flange itself plus one  plain washer is enough to 
ensure the joint can be pulled ip tight. Use brass or stainless nuts plus 
plenty of nickel antisieze, don't overtighten the nuts and you will have a 
long and leakfree relationship.

------------------------------
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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 02 Dec 96 08:48:25 MST
Subject: RE: Alternator rebuild

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
The basic snorkle construction seems fairly straight forward, but how do
you plan to fit it to the top of the air cleaner? Does anyone know of a
replacement for just that part?

Thanks,

What lies behind us and what lies    #=======#         _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared  |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us.              | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson                  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)
=========================================================================
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 13:06:52 MST7
X-Olddate:  Wed, 27 Nov 1996 13:05:33 MST
X-Listname: azlro@stat.com
From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Subject:  RE: Alternator rebuild

  Anyway, I'm building a
snorkle out of black PBC pipe and will put an additional aircleaner on top
of it.

If anybody's done it or has any suggestions on water proofing the air
cleaner housing I'd appreciate it.  I'm doing it for dust but I might as
well do it for water as well. I'm thinking about sealing off the dump
valve or atleast getting a plug so I can seal it before going in the deap.

Thanks,
Dirk

Dirk--

There was some discussion on the LRO list about putting a snorkle on a V-8.  I
don't remember the details, buit it had to do with the volume of air a V-8
needs and the dynamics of how a snorkle works.  If I recall correctly, the
thread concluded that a genuine snorkle or a clone thereof was the best option
by far.

Rob

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Subject: Re: Bothersome V8
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 11:03:44 -0500
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

I have a '93 LWB which, for some time had a similar mysterious problem.
It got to the point that on a cold day after a rain, the car just wouldn't
turn over at all.  I'm not saying that this is your problem, but my problem
was difficult enough to diagnose that the vehicle ended up spending a fair
amount of time in the shop (how many times can you hear "I told you we
should have bought the suburban").  In fact, the 10 year age difference
is probably enough to guarantee that this isn't your problem, but anyway.
It turned out that part of the ignition timing (as was explained to me)
rests under the rotor on the vehicle.  The stray emf from the rotor was
interfering with this timing unit.  The fix was a kit from rover that moved
the unit to the fender wall.

I didn't have the time to dig into it further.  I'm hoping for a shop
manual for christmas :-). 

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

------------------------------
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From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Land Rover then and now
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:26:56 -0800

As one of the "coilers" whose maybe emitted some "grumbles of
frustration" as opposed to "screams of anguish"...

I think most of the "screams of anguish" come from apparently misplaced
or misdirected expectations. Should I buy a 25+ year old anything, Rover
or otherwise, I would expect to perform some maintenance and be
replacing a few parts. In the case of the Series Rovers, it's fortunate
that they are easy to service. 

OTOH, when I pay $35,000+ for something that's brand new and billed as
the "best 4x4xFar", "4 wheeler of the year", etc. my expectations are
somewhat higher. So when little things start falling off (as a dozen or
so nuts and bolts did on mine) the first month, or when various engine
and drive-line parts are replaced every other month, the "experience"
doesn't quite live up to my expectations. Fortunately, I've not had any
"high tech" failures, on or off the road, nor do I really anticipate any
(said with fingers crossed :-). 

Even though my expectations have been tempered a bit since I bought it,
I still think the Discovery I bought last year is the best vehicle for
my application.

-- Bob W.
'95 Discovery

>Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 22:36:48 -0800
>From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 203 lines)]
>understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>  -B

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:12:29 -0500
Subject: IIa oil filters

Bill Leacock, inquired about IIa oil filters:

Bill:

Try the Fram CH834PL1.  Comes with the o-ring.  Around Denver these can be
found at Checker (and other) auto parts stores.  Farm & tractor supply
houses often have them as they are used on some kind of farm equipment.  The
examples I bought locally, however, were made in England.  Expect to pay
between 4 and 6 bucks each.  Also expect to get oil in your sleeve.

Paul Donohue
1965 IIa 109 (with the optional oil leak system)

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 11:30:24 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end

John Putnam wrote:
> snip
> gear parts came out. This leaves me with the need to replace a rear end. =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> British Pacific said he thinks the company name was KAM or CAM (maybe).  =
> Does anyone remember this.  Could you please e-mail me via the list or =
> direct at jdputnam@whpacific.com.

Yup.  KAM out of the UK.  I don't remember if it was a manually lockable unit
or not; the line drawings shown in a LROI article on this unit showed (if memory
serves) a compressor mounted on the axle casing.  I don't recall a manual overide
mechanism for the locking device.  KAM also manufactures other drive train odds and sods.  
There's also McNamara which I'm fairly sure can be (has to be?) manually operated.  
Sorry don't have addresses at hand, but could find them easily if
needed; they routinely advertise in LROI (possibly also LRW but you might find
it hard to get the remaining copies of this month's issue :) ).

cheers

Jeremy

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From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.lia.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:18:02 +0000
Subject: 50th Tour of South Africa 

For all you folks out there which have been waiting patiently for the
details regarding the Land Rover Owner's Club of SA's grand tour of
South and Southern Africa in 1998 to celebrate the birth of the Land
Rover.

Everyone in invited to take part in the full tour or part of it.
You MUST be a menber of a local or interrnational 4WD club of sorts
and you must own a LR.

There is also a new page containing VISA INFORMATION for many african
countries .

Please feel free to print out this message and the itinarary to put it
up at club meets and to give to your friends.

Go and have a look.

Brian's African Travel Guide        
http://www.dbn.lia.net/users/bcotton **note the new address** 

Cheers
Brian Cotton
SA

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 13:34:24 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: KAM lockers

Jeremy and others write about:

>a compressor mounted on the axle casing. 

Franklin (I think) has the KAM lockers. They're vacuum operated (or is that 
the Macnamara one?). Theory sez it has fewer things to go wrong than a 
pressurized system (lower stresses, won't freeze, no water problems, etc).

I don't plan to install lockers. I prefer to think about all the money I've 
saved as I try to get unstuck or winch up a loose hill or wait for help. (I 
really like my home-made hydraulic winch, although I've only used it to help 
someone else, so far ;)

JohnO

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:59:59 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: home-made hydraulic winch

> (I really like my home-made hydraulic winch, although I've only used it
>to help
>someone else, so far ;)
>JohnO

John can you give details on this home-made winch? Inquiring minds want to know.

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, rear Koenig
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:51:17 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>

subscribe land-rover-owner

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 16:48:19 -0500
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Zenith Carb Woes

Gang,

I'm having trouble with my spanking new Zenith carb (purchased and delivered
without any trouble from LR Supermarket, by the way).  When I initially
installed and adjusted it, all was well. Shortly after though, during a
weekend of off-roading, I noticed that the idle was becoming more and more
unstable.  Now it will not idle at all without choke applied.  The idle
screw is in as far as it will go, and I get no change in RPMs by turning the
mixture screw one complete turn one way or the other.  The truck seems to
run OK on the road, but is only returning around 12 mpg (US).  I have
checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner on all the sealing unions,
with no change in RPMs indicated. I seem to recall a semi-recent thread
about Zeniths having a problem with an "extra" passage in the carb body that
needed to be plugged when on a LR.  Anybody got any first hand info on this
"fix"?  Any other guesses?  This time of year, I'm more interested in
hunting than mechanicing.

Thanks,

Scott Fugate

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:40:45 -0700 (MST)
From: Addison <jraddiso@slate.Mines.EDU>
Subject: Buick V8 conv'n

  I read a few months ago in LRW about V8 conversion done here in the 
States in the mid 60's. They used a Buick V8 and the design was 
implemented at the factory to produce the first V8 powered Land Rover.
  I happen to have a 350 out of my transmition-busted-can't-drive '72 Buick 
Skylark and was wondering about what it might take to exchange it for 
2.25L petrol in my '69 88". Since there seems to some factory authorized 
precident and so on I thought this might just happen to be fairly striaght 
forward (for engine exchanges) and relatively sinless (for modifications).
  Does anyone know 1) the pros and cons of such an operation and 2) a very 
good conversion kit?
  I would only do it if I was convinced ahead of time that it will 
be fairly cheap and the result was absolutely solid.

Thanks

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:44:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Strong Adhesives

Trevor inquires about 5200:
> Could it be used to attach steel plates to a "porous" chassis :-)

If you get to bare metal (no rust) but I doubt it would be stiff enough. It
is a flexible adhesive, which is part of the problem in breaking the joint.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 19:42:14 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters

Mark Perry wrote:
> 1. Michel Bertrand pretty much sums up the Aro. I had a look at one out here
> for sale once, for too much money. Underneath looked like a good knock-off
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)]
> Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
> 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
> "It's noisier on the inside"

Hi Mark:
I put chains on my Land Rover.  What a beast.  It really pulls in the 
snow.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 18:35:06 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: home-made hydraulic winch (long)

Paul asked for it:
>John can you give details on this home-made winch? Inquiring minds want to 

know.

The hydraulic motor is an Adan geroter, 6.12 cu.in. unit rated at 2000in-lb 
at 2300psi. 513rpm at 15gpm. It weighs 18#.  It is chain-drive to a large 
sprocket forming one end of the cable drum, which is 4inch diameter by 
12inches long and holds 150feet of 3/8inch cable, plus 12feet of chain. 
(there's enough room on the drum for 250feet of cable, but I chickened out 
when I saw how big the 150foot roll was) The ratio is 4.5:1

The pump is a Northern Hydraulics two-stage log-splitter unit, 12gpm@600psi, 
3.5gpm@2500psi, powered by a single v-belt from the engine. It's mounted 
where the alternator normally goes. It weighs 10# (The alternator is now up 
by the battery, where there's a convenient accessory mount on the marine 
versions) The pump runs all the time when the belt is tight, which I take 
off when it won't be needed. The front bumper holds 2.5 gallons of hydraulic 
fluid. 

The manual control valve is presently mounted right behind the bumper on the 
drivers side. A line can be tied to the handle for remote operation, but it 
will eventually have an electric valve. The filter is stacked right behind 
the valve. The valve is a "closed center" style, so the motor is locked when 
the valve is off. The valve has an adjustable relief to limit the hydraulic 
pressure, and therefore the line tension.

The whole system weighs about 100#, including pump, motor, chain drive, 
spool, cable, valve, filter, oil, hoses and mounting brackets. I could leave 
the extra battery at home, but feel more confident having two in cold 
weather (diesel engine). The electric motor and worm gear drive alone 
weighed over 90#, so the weight saved is only about 40#, unless I get rid of 
the second battery. The bumper is probably around 50#, empty, but I'd use it 
anyway to protect the wings.

Full throttle line speed is 143fpm up to a tension of about 1000 pounds 
(full drum), at which point the pump drops to low-volume/high pressure for 
about 35fpm/3000 pounds. Line tension is independant of engine speed. On the 
first layer, max line tension is 4500 pounds. Since it can be unspooled at 
full speed, there's no clutch. It might be nice to have in some situations, 
but this is simpler.

In use, it's like a two-speed winch except it changes speed automatically 
and the speed is also controllable with the valve. It will pull up to 1000# 
at almost 2mph, which would get me up loose slopes or through mud where 
traction is not quite enough. If I need more than 4500 pounds pull, then I'm 
really stuck. I can then use a snatch block and have 9000#, which should be 
adequate. This replaces my home-made electric winch which only had 2000# 
pull on a full drum, 3000# on the first layer. I've never had a situation 
where I needed more pull to get myself unstuck, but it sometimes took 
everything the old system had. (caveat: to get other vehicles unstuck, such 
as a certain turbo-diesel D##ge up to it's bumper in mud, as a painful 
example, required a snatch block and three other vehicles (thanks John 
Benham, Jim Gwynn, and whoever else helped) pulling at the same time. It 
cost me a battery and a hook) It's almost silent, which was an unexpected 
surprise. I hadn't really noticed how noisy electric winches are.

Enough bandwidth for now. Contact me directly if you want to know more.
John O
'64 109 5-door deezil "Safari-SoGoodi", with a gazillon miles on both 
remaining original parts.

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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 18:40:14 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Buick V8 conv'n

>  I read a few months ago in LRW about V8 conversion done here in the
>States in the mid 60's. They used a Buick V8 and the design was
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>precident and so on I thought this might just happen to be fairly striaght
>forward (for engine exchanges) and relatively sinless (for modifications).

        The 350 is a whole different animal than the 215. Not only is it
cast iron (600 lbs) but it has the later BOP bellhousing pattern that
differs from the aluminum Buick/Rovers. This will make it a custom
adapation. The stock LR tranny isn't up to the job unless you pussyfoot
around and the rest of the drivetrain will need upgrade to handle the
power. Putting a 350 in your Rover ain't no girley job, mon.If you mate an
autobox between the 350 and the stock Rover t-case, you might have half a
chance to keep teh drivetrain alive without major expense.
        Besides the engine/gearbox adapation, you'll have to completely
redesign the steering column, design a cooling system (not easy because of
the small frontal area) and fabricate mounts. The starter may interfere
with the front driveshaft. These are the high spots. Myriad details await.
        Let us know what you decide.

Jim Allen

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From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: Progress on YOUR LR photo Archive!
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:07:07 -0500

Hello to one and all,

Thanks to Sorel and Jakob Vels, as well as Ross, for your contributions. =
 The archive is getting close to 100 photos.  For One month old that is =
not too shabby.

PLEASE contribute photos of any concievable LR and, or their variable =
attachments.

Please post for scanning (originals will be returned ASAP) to Rod =
Steele, 34 Luster Drive, Batesville, AR, USA, 72501, or email to me @ =
<rsteele@intellinet.com>.

The Archive will be placed on the Net when of a more modest size.

Thank you,

Rod Steele

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From: "Richard Ruffer" <rruffer@world2u.com>
Subject: Radiator Muffs
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 21:41:51 -0500

Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed
reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my
soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better.  Thanks for any
thoughts.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@world2u.com
'94 D90
http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer

------------------------------
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From: Pat Hubbard <patito@sh3.com>
Subject: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:30:53 -0600

Can someone help identify a strange engine sound?

After I replaced the cylinder head on a just-purchased 67 Series IIA the =
engine now has a rattle when first started. The noise sounds like =
something not being lubricated and goes away after 5-6 seconds. If the =
engine is shut off and restarted within 2-3 minutes the noise does not =
occur, but after 4-5 minutes of being stopped it will be back.

The noise seems to be up high in the block/cylinder head. The rocker =
shaft seems to be getting enough oil. I dropped the pan and rebuilt the =
oil pump, changed the oil filter and checked the oil line to the head =
for blockage, but the noise won't go away. Oh, also refilled the =
crankcase. A check of the big/small rod ends found none loose. To rule =
out the water pump and generator I have started the engine with the fan =
belt off. No change.

Are there any characteristic 2.25-l engine sounds that maybe I didn't =
originally hear because it was running on only 2 cylinders?

Thanks for your attention.

-------------------------------------
Patrick Hubbard
'67 Series IIA 88" HT
'96 Disco   

------------------------------
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From: brstore@Default.ibm.net
Date: Mon,  2 Dec 96 23:08:34 PST
Subject: Re:  Radiator Muffs

Rich

I caved yesterday and winterized my 88 by putting on the rad muff
and swaping the canvas for the hard top. I found warm ups much quicker
last winter with the rad muff in place and the engine ran hot enough to
give me some pretty decent heat. Course it also helps that I'm running
with a 88 deg C thermostat.

If you want to try it for yourself, just stick a piece of cardboard or
metal behind your grill and see if it improves things at all. When it's
at or below freezing I don't have any problems with overheating when the
front is completly covered but on warmer days you don't want to forget
to keep an eye on the gauge and mayby open up the front a bit.

BTW, a rad muff comes in very handy when deep wading during the rest of
the year.

Good luck and stay warm

Brett

<Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed
<reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With
my soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better. Thanks for any
thoughts.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@world2u.com
'94 D90
http://www.world2u.com/~rruffer

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:50:31 -0600
From: Don Scott Wallace <swallace@flash.net>
Subject: Information on 1990 to 1993 Range Rover County "HELP"

I need more input!?!?!?!?!?!?

Thanks for your time.

I was told this was the forum to ask my questions.

Please send you responses directly to me "swallace@flash.net"

my first questions follow:

I am considering the purchase of a 1991 to 1993 Range Rover County but,
I have yet to find any substantial information on the auto.  As this
will be my daily driver, I need to know if there are any nagging
problems (electrical or mech.) with the vehicle. 

In other words "what=92s the dirt?"

I've heard that the Lucus electrical system was put into the auto up to
some year (which yr. I'm not sure) and could be a problem.  (true/false
& which yr.)

I also need to know what the vehicle and engine's life expectancy is.

What type of work I can do myself (alternator, water pump) or is it best
left to professionals.

Can some or many of the auto=92s parts be switched out with American part
from a local parts house?

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

:-)

------------------------------
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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:02:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Zenith Carb Woes

Scott, from the Archives, here at Vintage Rover Service, the following:

It sounds like your carb has an airleak in it somewhere.  The Zenith Body is
prone to warping due to inadequate heat treatment at the factory.  If the
likely culprits are all good,  (the vacuum connectiions and air cleaner
inlet), then the body itself may be leaking between the upper and lower
bodies; or the emulsifer block and upper body.  If they are leaking, you will
notice a brown to black stain from fuel around the joints.  Also look at the
fuel economizer cover.  To correct the emulsifying block and upper/lower body
leaks, sand them flat with a piece of  emery cloth on a piece of glass.  Take
an equal amount of off each and clean the ports out with compressed air and
very soft wire.  Be VERY careful not to enlarge any of the jets or ports
while doing so.  After the compressed air, you can use a can of carb cleaner
to make sure that fluid is going the proper way through the circuits.  The
low speed circuit with its small diameters is prone to clogging after any
sanding.  To fix the economy cover you may need a new gasket.  You are
correct in that screwing the mixture screw out enrichens the mixture.  Best
of Luck.

Harry Edwards
Las Vegas
72 Series III

BritPac (?) has a memo on which hole to plug, but I planed mine and it works
fine, or will again after I finish this engine rebuild!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:18 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: aros,titillation,toys, gaiters

At 01:55 AM 12/2/96 -0600, Mark Perry wrote:
>2. Went to magnificent new location of bookshop where I normally get my
>LROI and discovered the first copy of LRW I'd seen - yes *that* issue. 

-
Oh my gosh!

>............................................ As for the "naughty bits"
>- OK for Easyriders, I suppose, and since someone like Calvin Klein wasn't
>paying for the space, out of place in general, and certainly in an LR
>magazine.
-
Why?? What do we talk about when we're not talking about Rovers or beer?

>.......... OTOH, there's a woman here in Canada who spends time in
>court arguing that those bits aren't naughty and there's no reason for
>them to be covered up, weather permitting.
-
There's a group of women in Rochester, NY that argued that point for a few
years. The end result was that it is now legal for women to go topless (or
"topfree") in public in New York - as long as they aren't doing it for
profit. More power to 'em, I say.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:20 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive

Marko sez...

>I have a SII 88 with 2,25 litre petrol engine and I thought it might be a
>good idea to install a overdrive.  I was shocked when our local LR-dealer
>gave me the price for the overdrive unit and his opinion was, that there is
>no use in installing it to models with petrol engines.

Sounds like a load of crapola to me. The OD unit is real nice for highway
cruising... and you get that "big trucker" feeling with an extra lever to
fiddle around with!

Did the "shocking" price include dealer installation? If so, find out about
just buying the overdrive and install it yourself. It's pretty simple.

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 00:12:19 -0500
From: Mike Loiodice <landrvr@blacdisc.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: No more Hi (You say Goodbye, I say Hi-Lo...)

Gee, Dave...

At 10:15 AM 12/2/96 EST, you wrote:
>Mike tries to explain the inner workings of the Series x-fer box...

............................
> And the leg bone's connected to the hip bone...and the knee bone's
conected >to the leg bone...etc.etc... 
-
I was kind of thinking that as I wrote....

>Don't tell us YOU'RE going to start writing tutorials too...:-)
-
No... I was bored... but *now* I've got the December issure of LRW, so I'm
not bored anymore...  8-O

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------
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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:19:36 -0500
Subject: Re: oil filter

Bill, maybe these numbers will help:
  Filters are Caterpiller 676228
World Parts W 27-370
Delco AC-72
Fram CH-834PL1
Hastings P-186
Kralinator L-532
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------
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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:28:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Land Rover Trek '96

Land Rover Owner International has a nice feature on Trek 96. The farm where
it was held is actually in Social Circle, Georgia, east of Atlanta. That red
clay is the stuff we've all heard about. Doesn't wash out very well, either. 
Did anyone run tape on that? I don't get ESPN2, as far as I know.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------
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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 00:32:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Wrecked Rover Rear end

Jim Allen offered this the other week:
> Jack Mac has a goodly number of other products. Their hypoid diff
>(just got some pics) is the most bulletproof thing I've ever seen! Call
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>also makes a great locker. Bill just recently negociated both USA
>distributorships.
 As for the KAM, Dec LROI shows one on the article on the Blue D90, going to
Russia. Looks like the KAM is air driven.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:37:06 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: D90 oil filters

        While we're on the subject, how about a US filter to replace the
3.9 long filter??

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:02:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: 1972 SIII Questions

        I have a couple of questions about my S III.
1. What year were the first sIII imported into the USA?
2. When did LR switch from the solid wind deflecter in the dash to the one
that lets air pass through? My rover has the solid dash.
3. Did they switch from the IIa window latches to the other type at the same
time? Mine has the old style latches with the holes for the later style
blanked off.

        I can't seem to find the information in any of the books. As always
thank you in advance,
                Rover On,
                        Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover
1972 Land Rover 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------
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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Land Rover then and now
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 07:54:26 +0100 (MET)

Scott Davies writes:
| Downside of the 2.5D with permanent 4WD is the fuel economy is hellish, 22 
| mpg on a good day.
Hey, what?!! That's 12.8l/100km. Mine just takes 10.5l/100km (=26.9 mpg)
BTW. that not more that every series owner I know claimed for his landy.

| Top speed is also unimpressive, 68mph  downhill with the 
| wind behind you, 50mph if you're  into a headwind.
On flat ground mine goes about 110km/h easily, but I usually stick to about 
90km/h to safe my ears. ;-)

How many km err! miles does yours have? Mine just has 78000km on the clock, now.
I'd probaly have the injection point adjusted if I were you.

cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------
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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Buick V8 conv'n
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:44:39 +-100

Addison[SMTP:jraddiso@slate.Mines.EDU] wrote:
I happen to have a 350 out of my transmition-busted-can't-drive '72 Buick 
Skylark and was wondering about what it might take to exchange it for 
2.25L petrol in my '69 88". 

You will probably have some problems with the connection 
between engine and bellhouse.
But what is Your intention with this swap? just to have 
more cubicinches?
If used for its real idea, OFFROAD work, You will need more 
momentum in wery low rpm. The buick 215 was modified by 
Rover, to have this, but then the highspeed power disappered.
If You want to go offroad, go for the engine with high 
angular momentum below 1500 rpm.
If You want a street racemachine, You need the power at 
the top.

This is always the problem if You take an engine from a 
streetcar.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers

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end

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 96 00:27 PST
From: Brad Krohn/Deborah Shannon <rover@europa.com>
Subject: Series 2A Oil Filters (US)

Bill:

One Series IIA oil filter is the Fram CH834PL1, which then 
should cross reference to a Purolator and other makes. Never
have found anything but the Fram, though - and I think my PO
(who has three-plus other LR) makes sure the local parts
places keep them in stock. 

<Brad/#6/PDX/OR/USA
'69 IIA 88
===========================================================
"Rover? Who Drives It?"
"That would be telling..."      --The Prisoner
===========================================================

------------------------------
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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Radiator Muffs
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 96 8:45:33 GMT

> Has anyone been using a radiator muff with success? I've heard mixed
> reviews on their effectiveness. Do they really make a difference? With my
> soft top, the quicker the heat comes on the better.  Thanks for any
> thoughts.

I've had mine on for about a week now, and not sure if its making much
difference. I tried to work it through. With a thermostat in the cooling
system, the time before the thermostat opens is going to be about the same,
but once it opens, warming-up should be quicker, as should the top temperature.
(good for the heater - hard or cold top). Of course, the heater is heating
outside air (it is on my III), so if its frosty, then you've only solved half
the problem as it were. - you're trying to warm very cold air, with water
that's slightly warmer than before.

I have an oil cooler. Does the oil system have a thermostat in it?
If not, then I can see that the muff should make quite a difference to
warming up?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------
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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 09:48:00 PST

I have been getting a similar rattle from my 2.5 Diesel, I haven't been able 
to track it down. If I use my engine pre-heater the rattle doesn't occur; 
this suggests to me that it is a clearance problem somewhere, not an oil 
feed problem (though it could be that warm oil is flowing better). The onset 
of the rattle coincided with the first sub 5 degrees centigrade nights. I 
thought that it sounded like tappet rattle but I've adjusted these with out 
any success in curing the rattle.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT with 98,500 on the clock
 ----------
From: Pat Hubbard
Subject: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start
Date: 02 December 1996 22:30

Can someone help identify a strange engine sound?

After I replaced the cylinder head on a just-purchased 67 Series IIA the =
engine now has a rattle when first started. The noise sounds like =
something not being lubricated and goes away after 5-6 seconds. If the =
engine is shut off and restarted within 2-3 minutes the noise does not =
occur, but after 4-5 minutes of being stopped it will be back.

The noise seems to be up high in the block/cylinder head. The rocker =
shaft seems to be getting enough oil. I dropped the pan and rebuilt the =
oil pump, changed the oil filter and checked the oil line to the head =
for blockage, but the noise won't go away. Oh, also refilled the =
crankcase. A check of the big/small rod ends found none loose. To rule =
out the water pump and generator I have started the engine with the fan =
belt off. No change.

Are there any characteristic 2.25-l engine sounds that maybe I didn't =
originally hear because it was running on only 2 cylinders?

Thanks for your attention.

 -------------------------------------
Patrick Hubbard
'67 Series IIA 88" HT
'96 Disco

------------------------------
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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  3 Dec 96  6:26:52 EST
Subject: Re: Series IIA engine rattle on cold start

------------------------------
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From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 06:45:39 -500
Subject: Seeking Metal Pedals

I'm seeking a set of the standard issue metal pedal pads, the
almost square waffle stamped parts with raised lip edge, welded
to the pedal pendant arms.  The part you step on,  both clutch
and brake.  Thanks!  Mark  

------------------------------
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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 62 lines 2766 [forwarded 375 whitespace 637]
 Output: lines 1965 [content 1347  forwarded 121 (cut  254) whitespace 570]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

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In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.