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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 13:53:57 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Top shelf magazines

James <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> describes XXX filth in LRO

> photographer by exposing their breasts to the camera.

Depravity and Sodom, cast out the demon. BURN them, Burn them all.....

For gods sake, somebody pulled LRO from the shelves because of this ?
We'll be receiving them under plain cover next.

Get a life and a broader mind.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 08:09:17 -0500
Subject: Manifold to Tailpipe

A couple of years ago I replaced a cracked exhaust manifold. The parts kit
came from Ritish Batlantic (name changed to protect the innocent) It came
with all the required stuff for head surgery: manifold, studs, gaskets,
nuts, etc.

Then the fun started. After surgery, the tailpipe would occasionally drop
away from the manifold, and I would crawl underneath to tighten the studs.
Every few weeks,the joing would come loose.

Asking around, I found several answers. Some people never had the problem,
while others clamped or welded tailpipes to the manifolds. Wife refused to
ride in car. Cops looked askance. Staff complained of carbon monoxide.

You know, the usual whining and complaining.

Neighbor who owns a Model A Ford suggested I needed a gasket. So I called
Novers Rorth, who have since become my suppliers. "Do you have a gasket for
the joint?" I asked. "No!" they responded. Land Rovers don't have gaskets,
or doughnuts. It is a finely-shaped English ball joint that can't leak,
they explained.

Wife's impending return from a long stay in Iceland galvanized the local
Roverepair team into action. Model A neighbor produced a sheet of manifold
gasket material. It really looked daunting, tough non-asbestos stuff. But I
went under the vehicle and pulled the studs, thinking to cut a gasket from
that stuff.

This is when I discovered the probable reason for the recurring leak.  The
original three studs between the original manifold and the tailpipe had
been close threaded: the threads from both ends met at the middle. The
"replacement" studs from Ritish Balantic had a quarter-inch gap between the
threads. It happens that the flange holding the tailpipe to the manifold is
a quarter-inch thick. There was no room for slop in the system, and it was
physically impossible to pull all three studs up tight and get a good seal.

So I put three very thick washers under the nuts on the studs, and the
manifold pulled itself up tighter than ever.

And I was spared the task of cutting a gasket out of that tough manifold
gasket stuff. My friend plans to use it on his Model A, which is, after
all, an inferior beast.

So be sure that your studs are threaded all the way up. Otherwise, make
provision for the slop by adding spacers. Worked for me.

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Top shelf magazines
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 13:17:00 PST

I agree with the sentiment but get the facts right, it was Land Rover World 
which featured this 'pornographic' :-)  picture, not Land Rover Owner 
International. I'm almost tempted to go out and buy the magazine just to see 
what all the fuss is about :-)
 ----------
From: pwakefie
Subject: Top shelf magazines
Date: 29 November 1996 13:53

James <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> describes XXX filth in LRO

> ...two young women in front of a white LR 110. These women are "flashing"
the
> photographer by exposing their breasts to the camera.
Depravity and Sodom, cast out the demon. BURN them, Burn them all.....

For gods sake, somebody pulled LRO from the shelves because of this ?
We'll be receiving them under plain cover next.

Get a life and a broader mind.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Manifold to Tailpipe
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 13:20:27 GMT

> This is when I discovered the probable reason for the recurring leak.  The
> original three studs between the original manifold and the tailpipe had
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> So be sure that your studs are threaded all the way up. Otherwise, make
> provision for the slop by adding spacers. Worked for me.

Perhaps this is what happened to me? I found the same join blowing, so
I tried tightening the studs up. I even had my father help me - no luck.
These studs had hex key heads, and had been "wired" just for fun...

Anyway, I gave it up, and got a garage to do it with the imminent MoT.
They advertised that they did exhausts. Guess what it failed on? Yes you got
it!
Got a local village garage (that advertised While-U-Wait exhausts,etc - open
til 8pm,etc,etc) to look at it. They found the problem ("whoever fixed it
previously did a proper job of it!" [ie. some squaddy]), decided to keep it
in over night just incase something went horrible wrong, but they
restudded it with no problems. They also did my MoT for me with no
major problems, except they though a seatbelt was frayed.

The joint hasn't come undone since!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: TPrecord@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 09:22:52 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

UNSUBSCRIBE TO LRO DIGEST

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 14:45:25 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Free Will hubs, was: Free Wheeling Hubs

>>Suggestion:  Take them off, throw them away, and drive your Rover as
>>Mother Nature intended.

What! Bollock naked? In winter? Not on your Nellie,mate.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:01:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: RE: Top shelf magazines

 I'm almost tempted to go out and buy the magazine just to see
>what all the fuss is about :-)

Shouldnt bother.I've seen better:-)

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Wheel Bearings
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 08:20:00 EST

It's not the size of your nuts or how tight they are nor how strong are your 
wenches.(opps, There goes that dropped H again)
When the inner hub nut is adjusted its threads bear against the outside 
face. When the locknut is tightened this causes the inner nut to move 
through the thread clearance and alter the bearing adjustment. Setting the 
correct bearing interference/clearance is a precise process. Fortunately our 
LRs are quite tolerant but the correct adjustment will provide longer life.
The following comes from Timken's web site:
WHAT IS BEARING ADJUSTMENT?

Most Timken? tapered roller bearings are supplied as two basic components: A 
cone assembly consisting of a cone (inner race), cage and rollers; and a cup 
(outer
race). This is a distinct advantage because it enables each bearing to be 
adjusted at the time of installation, to meet specific requirements of each 
application.

To achieve the proper setting, the bearing should be initially adjusted with 
the correct amount of internal axial clearance (end play) or internal load 
(preload).

It's extremely difficult to accurately measure preload on wheel bearings in 
most situations, but we can measure end play using a dial indicator.

This is why we recommend establishing a specified setting for our bearings. 
A free poster or brochure outlining a simple procedure for adjusting wheel 
bearings is
available from The Timken Company.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:44:00 +0100
From: Joost Kramer <kramer.jobse@pi.net>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe lro kramerjk@pi.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:42:58 +0100
From: Joost Kramer <kramer.jobse@pi.net>
Subject: unsubscribe land-rover-owner kramerjk@pi.net

unsubscribe land-rover-owner kramerjk@pi.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 13:36:18 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: Temporary absence - 1 week 

     unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Subject: Sightings
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:27:32 EST

I just saw (1:45pm Nov 29) a (series II?) limestone 88 traveling
eastbound in indiana on old lincoln highway (old Rt. 30). I honked and
waved, but don't know if the driver saw or noticed me.  Anyone on the
list? seemed to have Illinois plates but I can't be sure. Looked like it
was in good shape. 
First time I'd seen one in my neck of the woods.

mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 01:44:29 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: re: Drums on a 110 again

lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
> I said:
> >>Doug -
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> >>Why exactly can't you use the hole for the bolt that forces the drum away
> >>from the hub?

Well, it is maybe stupid, but...
Are you sure you have screwed out the little screw that holds the
drum to the hub ?  Have you adjusted the shoes that the wheel is
turning completely free ?  Have you tryed to use a heavy soft
plastic hammer or similar to remove the drum ?
If everything failes, adjust the brakes so that the wheel does almost
not turn round, drive a few hounderd yards, adjust the brakes so that
they are running free and due the heat off the drum and the hammer
it shoud come loose.  If nothing helps put in a lot off oil, 
drive VERY VERY carefull a few yards and try again.
If Anything fails, try to sell it :-)
Regards,
-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

          _______________                
         //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
   ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
  |   __            __   |#   
  |__/  \__________/  \__|    My next one = Lightweight
     \__/          \__/    

 http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html

      \|/
     ( ..)                
 --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 21:39:03 -0500
Subject: Mirror, Mirror

Hi all,

Just doing some light reading this evening and I noticed in the article
titled "Out of Africa" in Nov. LROI, there's a picture of a Kenyan
reconditioning a SIII 109 on page 123.  It seemed a bit odd and then I
figured out that the photo is reversed (oil filter and filler tube on left
side of engine, dipstick on right, transfer box on left of gearbox etc) or is
this the infamous 109 Bizarro-world modification?

Nate 
NADdMD@aol.com (new address)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 21:18:05 -0800
From: ed hall <goldnet@vegas.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Mirror, Mirror

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
> Just doing some light reading this evening and I noticed in the article
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> this the infamous 109 Bizarro-world modification?
> NADdMD@aol.com (new address)

Haven't you heard of right and left hand drive Land Rovers? :}:}  if
they can put the stering wheel on the wrong side, then why not every
thing else. :}

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 21:24:02 -0800
From: ed hall <goldnet@vegas.infi.net>
Subject: Looking for Land Rover lovers in and around Las Vegas

I posted this on another land Rover list, and they said to join your
list and post it here.  
	I am a Land Rover lover living in Las Vegas, Nevada and am looking for
others in this area who are also into them.  
	I have loved Landy's ever since I first rode in one, in 1985.  I was
living in England at the time, and so got myself a nice old 1961 type
IIA, which I still have, but is in need of a frame.  There for it is off
the road right now, waiting for me to get the parts I will need to
rebuild it.  I am planing to restore it while I am at it since almost
all of it will need to be taken off as it is.  
	I have one other quetions for the list, can anyone tell me if there is
a diferance between a Left Hand and Right Hand drive frame?  
	Thanks to all in advance.     Ed Hall

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 09:28:37 +0000
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Manifold to Tailpipe

> This is when I discovered the probable reason for the recurring leak.  The
> original three studs between the original manifold and the tailpipe had
         [ truncated by lro-lite (was 17 lines)]
> So be sure that your studs are threaded all the way up. Otherwise, make
> provision for the slop by adding spacers. Worked for me.

I have also had problems with these three studs. I finished up taking
the manifold off and putting new studs in, I covered them with
Copper-ease grease and fitted brass nuts which don't rust and seize up.
But brass is soft so care is needed not to overtighten them.
This has worked well for the last five years and two exhaust systems.

Mick Forster (SIII 109 Safari 1973)

------------------------------

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