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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 07:33:43 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Safari roof questions

Ok...I bought it.

I got a Safari Roof with vents, bumps, second skin and alpine windows. Any 
experience freeing up frozen vents? What are the chances of them NOT leaking? 
Also i got a Deluxe bonnet, dished variety....

Dave "Woohoo" B. 
More on this later...

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Overdrive question
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:01:30 +-100

Simon Ward-Hastelow[SMTP:simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com] wrote:
>I have had conflicting advice concerning fitting an overdrive to a my 110.
>It is an early V8 mated to the 4-speed 'box. I have seen Range Rovers 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>question as I cannot afford to do it anyway at the moment, but I would 
>like to know whether it's possible or not?

I planned the same to my car, and there should not be 
any problems. If You order a new one and specify a 110,
the handle, and connection rods are different from a 
Range Rover. There are also differenses for LHD/RHD. 
But the box itself is the same.
I choosed a different solution.
499 pounds, and You can change all 4 high and 4 low a 
step upwards.
100 pounds, and You get all the 4 high a step upwards 
permanetly ( Change the 2 gearwheels in the transfer box 
to the Range Rover version). I will do this as soon as 
possible.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers

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------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: test. ignore this please.
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:33:31 +-100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 09:01:24 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: LR Nudity

While I have found no nudity, I have to admit I HAVE been (ahem,) aroused,
by the naked chassis, dirty business, mud wrestling, light bondage, and
explicit photos of these vehicles.

No nudity in LROI, only in the opposition.  Coupled with some of the
language not a magazine to be left around near young children.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 06:03:07 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Safari roof questions

At  7:33 AM 11/25/96 -0500, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

>I got a Safari Roof with vents, bumps, second skin and alpine windows. Any
>experience freeing up frozen vents? What are the chances of them NOT leaking?
>Also i got a Deluxe bonnet, dished variety....

Unscrew the vent ass'y from the roof & you can work on the rust easier.  To
seal the vents, you need to unscrew them, clean up the mating surfaces, add
a bead of RTV then reassemble.  The opening is proud of the roof so will
not be a source of leaks.  Leaks come where the vent assy mounts to the
roof.

For people near the Monterey California bay area, I still have a tropical
roof (second skin, roof vents, alpine windows) with 109 two door two window
per side sides for sale.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 09:04:57 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Anti-freeze type

>Has anyone on the list died from drinking their old, high tocicity
>anti-freeze? I'm curious as to why exactly they offer non-toxic
>anti-freeze... perhaps its a new flavor of Kool-Ade developed in Guyana?

 I have tasted it from time to time, but I haven't died yet. Definitely tastes 
better than gear oil. The antifreeze you are talking about is called "Sierra". I
use it in all of my vehicles, and haven't had any problems. The reason for it is
that pets and other animals are attracted to the sweet taste of regular 
antifreeze, which can be lethal if t hey drink enough. So either use the good 
stuff or make sure you don't leave puddles behind...

Dave B. 

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Anti-freeze type
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 14:18:24 GMT

> >Has anyone on the list died from drinking their old, high tocicity
> >anti-freeze? I'm curious as to why exactly they offer non-toxic
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> antifreeze, which can be lethal if t hey drink enough. So either use the good 
> stuff or make sure you don't leave puddles behind...

Gear oil *smells* nice, though! Brake fluid is the one that tastes *really*
disgusting.

Not many years ago, there was a scandal amongst most of the European countries,
in that they were using  antifreeze as an artifical sweetner. Considering that
Europe didn't suddenly die, it can't be *that* toxic. Note: I'm not in
a big rush to go and down a bottle of the stuff!
The really nasty stuff in radiator fluid is the blocker stuff. Try siphoning
the mix - if you've plenty of antifreeze it might mask the main taste, but
not the aftertaste...   

I tried using antifreeze for ant traps, but they don't like it. Much better to
use good old Tate & Lyle. They hate the smell of antifreeze...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 14:21:32 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Anti-freeze type

 So either use the good
>stuff or make sure you don't leave puddles behind...
>Dave B.

Its not *me* that leaves the puddles behind....Its the dogs!!
And I'm sticking to that story<sniff>.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:01:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Safari roof questions

On Mon, 25 Nov 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> I got a Safari Roof with vents, bumps, second skin and alpine windows. Any 
> experience freeing up frozen vents? What are the chances of them NOT leaking? 
> Also i got a Deluxe bonnet, dished variety....

	Mine are left open most of the time, in rainstorms, the like.  
	Don't even get any snow blowing in.  Lots of wd-40 for the rest 
	of the question.

	Deluxe bonnet eh... Really tarting up the thing.  Don't know if a III
	can handle it...  Next you will be putting a late IIA grille on it...
	:-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 07:33:57 -0700
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)

Sandy Grice wrote:
BTW, the spindle nut lock tab washer as made by International Harvester is
superior to the Rover one.  Ask for IH part #860291R1.  Cheers

In what way?  The reason I ask is that the last time I had to deal with
that lock tab washer, pieces of it flaked off where it bent!  This was a
new one that seemed to have a silver coating on it that didn't like to be
bent.  Since I figured the flakes weren't good to leave in there, I fished
them out.

cheers back,

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover and Mazda owner!  sniff, sniff, bye lovely Tiger.
dormobile page:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:42:25 -0500
From: David_R@mindspring.com (David Russell)
Subject: Sighting

Late night Friday on the Sci-Fi channel...in a Black and Decker Ad for the
one-handed workmate (a combination workbench/clamping system)

Scene: Man falling out of airplane, a la 007 (may have been wearing a tux),
with a metal briefcase. Proceedes to, while falling through the air and
using the Workmate, disassemble briefcase and create helicopter-like blades
that he attaches to workmate. Apparently, the blades then autogyrate(?)
(I'm not an aeronautical engineer) and slow his decent.

LR content? He lands in a topless IIA and speeds off over the desert in a
cloud of dust.

Happy holidays.

David Russell
1969 Series IIA SWB faded Pastel Green last seen @
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:01:29 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: 2.25 Diesel fuel consumption figures

Hi all

I've been driving my grandfather's IIA diesel for the past couple of weeks.
I do about 50km/day, mostly highway, but I did some town driving too.
Highway driving was at 80km/h (50mph) which is what I get when I "floor" the
hand throttle and lay off the accelerator, which is what I did...

1. Free wheel hubs free
   344km, 40l, = 11.6l/100km, 8.6km/l, 20.2 mpg (US), 24.2 pmg (UK)

2. Free wheel hubs engaged
   (Note. This was maybe more town driving, and one bit of 100 km/h driving
when    I was late)
   200km, 18.6l, = 9.3l/100km, 10.7km/l, 25.2 mpg (US) 30 mpg (UK)

Thoughts: I probably didn't fill the tank properly for #2. Even so, I don't
think it was less than 2l or so from being full. So, one must drive at 100
km/h (this uses more oil though, maybe that's wat I was burning :-) with the
free wheel hubs on (grin) for best mileage.

Actually I think this means that the free wheel hubs don't make much of a
difference. Steering is slightly easier with them free, but the swivel pins
etc. do need a service.

I am just glad that, even though the fluid measurements differ from US to
UK, the miles are at least the same length (except of course for Texas,
where the miles are slightly shorter)

W
--
Wouter de Waal ZS1KE     GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W
Argo 505 / FT200       N+++>++ !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t
Amateur Homebrewer 5? X? R? tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*)
                                                      Perseverance my son,
'72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine                        it's a   Land/
Series II LR SW - see http://www.aztec.co.za/users/wrm            /Rover

I live in a free country and have all the permits to prove it - Wayne Franz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 08:59:33 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: freeing up frozen vents

Dave "Woohoo" asks:
>I got a Safari Roof with vents, bumps, second skin and alpine windows. Any 
>experience freeing up frozen vents? What are the chances of them NOT leaking? 

I removed my 109's vents and applied liberal amounts of Naval Jelly (they 
were frozen solid with rust). After about 10 applications all rust was gone 
and they worked just fine. Follow the directions, and use a lot. Thoroughly 
wash it out between applications. I only left it on for about 30 minutes at 
each application. After the final complete wash, I primed and painted with a 
silver-colored galvanizing spray, topped with a clear coat. They've held up 
well for 6 years now. Of course the gaskets still leak, but I couldn't 
afford new ones at the time.

Cheers,
JohnO

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Gas Tanks
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 11:11:00 EST

To clean the tank hang it from the ceiling on some bungie cords. Put an 
assortment of scrap metal objects inside then partially fill with a 
water/deruster solution (CLR). seal up the outlets and then bang and bounce 
the tank around for a few minutes. Drain the cruddy solution, refill and 
repeat until it flows clear. Open the tank up and fill it with boiling water 
then drain and leave to dry. When thoroughly dried out coat the inside with 
two part epoxy paint. Clean and  derust the exterior and treat with rust 
inhibitor then paint with same two part epoxy.
This treatment provided a five year repair for Miss Golightly's tank and 
would have lasted longer if I had separated the bottom plate and done a more 
thorough job on the outside. Even then the repair was easy after I took off 
the bottom plate ground out the rust and epoxied the pinholes.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Loctite Extend
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 11:42:00 EST

Ian Harper is looking for Loctite Extend.
In Ontario you can buy it at any Canadian Bearings store or at Princess 
Auto.
There's a Princess near you in Kitchener tel 519 743-0742
IMHO Extend is great stuff. Be sure to completely coat all sides of the part 
being treated and do it when it's warm. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 08:57:48 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 2 1/16 socket for hub nuts.

Lodelane@aol.com wrote:

> 'Scuuuuussseee me!
> The "original" wrench from RN and other sources is sheet metal, just like the
> JC Whitless.  Ya just pay more.

??

Odd. I'd swear the one I have from RN is not sheet metal.  Of course I don't have
one from JCW to compare to.

cheers,

JEremy

------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 96 12:09:17 EST
From: Bradford.J.Davis@Dartmouth.EDU (Bradford J. Davis)
Subject: Frozen Clutch

Hello,

I'm afraid I've committed a rather egregious error.....while away at college I
stored  my Rover without depressing the clutch pedal. As a result, the clutch
is now frozen as solid as a New Hampshire winter.

I was curious if anyone in their infinite Rovering experience would know of a
simple solution to this problem, like say a magical access port through which I
need only squirt a little WD40 to restore my clutch to full operation. Deluding
myself? Probably, but I am young and optimistic.....

Please respond directly to me if you could; finals are approaching and it would
save a lot of time if I didn't have to scour through the entire digest. Thanks.

Regards,
Brad
(Bradford.Davis@Dartmouth.edu)

------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 96 12:11:25 EST
From: Bradford.J.Davis@Dartmouth.EDU (Bradford J. Davis)
Subject: Re: Frozen Clutch

BTW- That Rover is a 1960 Ser. II 88".

Thanks,
Brad

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 19:51:46 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: All's quiet on the listserv front.

Hi All 

Re: towing a Dead LR.

In the UK to the best of my knowledge, if you tow a vehicle (ie not using its 
own motive power) then it becomes a trailer and it does not need to be 
registered and/or even have an MOT.

I could stand corrected if the boys in blue are on the list.

Re: Sealing Compounds.

Do you think I can loctite my core plugs back in :-( (UK = -5 Degrees yesterday)
Now did I leave 20% or 30% concentration in the rad ... do you feel lucky ... ?

Paul

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Nov 96 14:43:39 EST
Subject: Need a Radio-Control LR for Christmas present!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:31:02 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: Registering that 109"

Hi, still pluggin' away here!

Thanks for all the consistant and sensible information -AJR, Ed Hall, EricZ,
Larry Smith, Mike Rogers, Alan Jardine and Bill Leacock for backing it all
up with hard copy by fax.

I just got off the phone from talking with a different staff member of the
importing company and he said (approx) "You gave /us/ the money and /we/
paid for the vehicle??  I'll look into it.  If that's the case then we'll
have to do something."

I feel a little better, but am not about to hold my breath!

So things are looking up a bit.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional        
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:13:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Need a Radio-Control LR for Christmas present!

On 25 Nov 1996, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> If I don't find one, the daughter's gonna be most annoyed with Santa.....8*)

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]

> If I don't find one, the daughter's gonna be most annoyed with Santa.....8*)
> In the US, anybody seen one of these at a price less than a real one? -ajr
Hmmmmm I would think that you could just send Dixon $50.00 U.S. which when
converted should give him enough CDN cash to go find your daughter a real
rover as well as a few $$ for beer.

Russ W.
once again Rovering.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 21:47:14 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Tropical roof

Dear all, if the later models are like the Series Ones, the tropical roof 
for the hard top has no bumps, while the roof for the Station Wagon does. 
Reason: The Station Wagon has ventilator openings in the roof, and the hard 
top does not.

>Tom replys to Dave's search for wisdom:
>> Is it an 88? If so, the trop roof is olny sheet metal rivited to the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>cat. for IIA/III shows bumps on both 88 and 109. But I think I've also seen
>awnings without bumps.

Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 16:18:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Frozen Clutch

Congratulations ...... This probably means that neither your trans nor your
rear main seal leak........Too much. The solution that I use has the great
advantage of being simple. AND cheep, WD 40 is SO expensive these days.. :-)

Step 1 Lock hubs if you have them........ Don't start that again....you know
who you are ;-)
Step 2 Engage 4 wheel HIGH. IMPORTANT if you neglect this step you could
brake a half shaft.
Step 3 Start the truck and allow to warm up.
Step 4 Stop Engines 
Step 5 With due care and attention to where you are going restart the truck
in gear. 
Step 6 Accelerate and with care shift up into second.
Step 7 Floor the throttle and as the engine comes up towards its torque peak
( about 25 mph? ) depress clutch and with clutch depressed, and throttle
floored .........SLAM on the brakes.

If it doesn't work try it again. It is VERY rare that I have ever seen a
simple rusted clutch that will still stick after this treatment.  If all else
fails well you had to take it apart anyway.....

The "Dormobile" ( roof and truck both now gone, thank you ) would have the
clutch stick in as little as a week and this never failed to free it up. I
did it once on a test ride with prospective purchasers, bad plan , they were
NOT impressed. Not rover types obviously.

Credit to Steve Dennis for some of the foregoing.
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 13:50:28 -0800
From: bruce.curtis@Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Re: Digest down?

> Are *both* digests down?  In the past, it's usually one or the other.  Do 
> they both "live" on one machine now?
<snip>

If your referring to lro & cso, then yes they both live on the same machine.

The building that the system the Major lives in had it's power shutoff from
Nov 24 08:11:34 PST through Nov 24 19:57:02 PST ... All is well now.

Later, Bruce (playground sysadmin).
'95 Disco

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 19:51:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Need a Radio-Control LR for Christmas present!

Uhhh, yeah, I think you could make/modify one, then give to her.

You see, you take *your* rover and wire in the ignition and starter to the
power and station tuning buttons on the radio, and Voila! a
*Radio-Controlled-Rover*  haha  : )

pat"with no radio to control my rover"parsons
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 20:37:48 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Anti-freezes

>I'm about to replace the anti-freeze in my radiator...and saw an ad for 
>non-toxic anti-freeze.

>Has anyone on the list died from drinking their old, high toxcicity 
>anti-freeze?

It's not people, rahter dogs and cats (and fish if'n you dump the stuff).  
Animals find the stuff sweet tasting.  [Russ...up for another taste test?
;-) gotta be better 'n Waxoyl!] Consisting of ethylene glycol, they happily 
lap up any spills, and die a day later when their kidneys fail.  The 
non-toxic stuff is *propylene* glycol which is actually a food additive.  
(Check out the label on a loaf of bread.)  Aluminum block Rovers may require 
the addition of a non-phosphate corrosion inhibitor.  Bon appetit.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 20:37:44 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Regulatin' them volts

>What is the number on the regulator, it is probably RB 340 or 310...

If it is the 340 unit, here is a crossover for you: Ford Tractor (!!!) 
#DONN-105-05A.  Cheers.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 20:37:52 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hub nuts

Larry Smith wrote:

>The original wrench from RN and other sources is sheet metal, just like
>the JC Whitless.  Ya just pay more.

Sorry, Larry, I gotta disagree.  Bought my tool at the last Rover's North 
rally.  It's basically a 3/4" drive socket from some British tool maker.  
*Definitely* forged steel.  I had to file out the corners of the square 
drive hole to make a Craftsman 3/4 into 1/2" drive adapter fit.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 16:44:24 -0900
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@Alaska.NET>
Subject: [Fwd: Intermediate Gears]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Swapping in an early model intermediate gear will not help out The high
range gearing.  All series Rovers, except FC's, one ton's, and stage
1's, have a high range ratio of 1.148:1 in the transfer case.  The
Series 1's and 2's have a suffix A gearbox (actually I believe there is
no suffix letter stamped on the gearboxes until the B, all unmarked
boxes are considered A's).  The early 2a's have the suffix B box.  All A
and B boxes share the same gear ratio's in both the tranny and transfer
case.

1st= 2.996:1   2nd= 2.043:1   3rd= 1.377:1   4th= 1:1   rev= 2.547:1
High= 1.148:1  Low= 2.888:1

The gear ratio's were changed with the suffix C boxes somewhere between
1964-5 I think.  They are as follows:

1st=3.60:1     2nd= 2.22:1    3rd= 1.50:1    4th= 1:1   rev=3.02:1
High= 1.148:1  Low= 2.350:1

Basically Rover lowered the first through third ratio's, probably to
provide better starting off gearing for on road duty, while they
increased the low range gearing to keep the overall first gear ratio in
low range the same.  Combined with the 4.7 diff's both combinations
provide aprox. 40:1 reduction in low range first gear.  High range 4th 
gear will yield 5.396:1 in both.

An early T-case combined with a later tranny will provide an overall low
range first gear reduction of aprox. 49:1 with the 4.7 diffs.  High
range 4th will still only yield 5.396:1.

The B units were sort of transition pieces.  The tranny has the gear
ratio's of the A combined with the larger front layshaft bearing of the
later units.  The T-case has the low low range combined with the larger
intermediate shaft.  The B intermediate gear is a direct swap into a
later case as long as the low range gear from an A or B is swapped in
with it.

Regarding the four wheel steering.  If you turn the diff upsidedown it
will not oil the pinion bearings properly.  Also, spiral bevel gears do
have a coast and drive side.  They are weaker if driven from the coast
side.  A straight bevel gear would be the same either way.

Tim Sitter
Peter's Creek Alaska

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:42:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks

Trevor advice on fuel tank repairs includes:
> Even then the repair was easy after I took off 
>  the bottom plate ground out the rust and epoxied the pinholes.

What is involved in removing the bottom plate?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:47:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Limerick 'repair' job...

That figures! I repaired that limerick like I've repaired my LR on occassion!
(it should be fixed, I worked on it long enough...) Maybe I'm getting
"lysdexic" or something. The last line should have been:
"That has good money been spent in!"
There, done with it.
until the next time...
jim
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 23:06:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Need a Radio-Control LR for Christmas present!

Santa may be in trouble with a month yet to Christmas:
> f I don't find one, the daughter's gonna be most annoyed with Santa.....8*)
>  In the US, anybody seen one of these at a price less than a real one? -ajr

Here is a partial idea. AB carries the German plastic "bruder" model of a
SIII 109 SW for $16.95. It's made of a relatively flexible plastic, the body
is 8 1/2" long and 3 1/4" wide. Wheelbase is 5 1/2". That's the easy part.

Now the hard part. Find a suitable, small r/c truck with a chassis that can
be modified (stretched) to fit under/inside the LR body. No ideas if any
exist. Wheel openings can be oppened with a knofe and file. I presume you are
talking "toy" r/c LR, and not "hobby" type.

BTW, this LR would be a neat toy for any child/adult. It has opening front
doors,  rear safari door and bonnet, a winch on the front, and luggage rack.

Regards and good luck,
David Cockey
 

------------------------------

From: seagul@sfai.edu (Seagul)
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 20:24:29 -0800

unsubscribe land-rover-owner seagul@sfai.EDU

------------------------------

From: seagul@sfai.edu (Seagul)
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 20:24:25 -0800

unsubscribe land-rover-owner seagul@rrose.sfai.EDU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 01:13:24 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Frozen Clutch

>Step 7 Floor the throttle and as the engine comes up towards its torque peak
>( about 25 mph? ) depress clutch and with clutch depressed, and throttle
>floored .........SLAM on the brakes.

How does one do this, exactly?  It sounds either physically impossible, or
at the very least, extremely uncomfortable.

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 21:33:16 -0900
From: "Paul M. Spatzek" <spatzek@Alaska.NET>
Subject: Re: Re Snow,MGs and CVs

Paul M. Spatzek wrote:
> Richard Marsden wrote:
> > > > Cars like the 2CV have  narrow 3" tyres, vitually no power or
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> watch the big jacked up "4X4" types with their monster mud tires, slide
> merrily through intersections and into each other!
> 73 Paul Spatzek WL7BF

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 18:07:50 -0800
From: Sean Mccarthy <macca@connexus.apana.org.au>
Subject: 109" Forward Control

I was wondering if anyone could give any information on 109'Forward 
controls as I am thinking about building one. Some of the information I 
need is what modifications need to be done to 109" chassis. What size 
where the c sections that ran parallel to the chassis. What postion the 
bulkhead sat forward of the front wheels. Any information would be 
welcomed.

Sean....

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Antenna bases (mod) 
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 9:33:45 GMT

> Richard, if you really want one (or 2 including the side mount on a 
> pole type) Brooklyn eng. Chandlers Ford, usually have them in stock.
> >.

Thanks Niel, I'll bear it in in mind, although I'm not sure if I *really*
want one. Good for poser value, but a CB aerial on one of those will get quite
tall!

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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