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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:01:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rover Anti-theft Methods

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996, Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> wrote:

>and maybe an extra clip on the seat...  

Reminds me of a plan I saw in some LR forum:  Large bore handgun holster (empty) 
and a couple speedloaders on the centre seat...I'd sure steer clear.  Though I 
much prefer the rover dog idea.  People are afraid to even park next to me when 
my dog is in the rover.

Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:01:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: RHD ???

The reason why most pre-1920 american vehicles have RHD is not that we drove on 
the left back then, its the fact that the side of the road was more important 
back then (roads being what they were) than the minimal amount of traffic.

Eric 

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 13:58:27 +0000
Subject: Re: tailgaters

>>Some one driving closer than the normal 2 second rule is effectively
>>a tailgater. Sometimes it is safe to drive closer than this, and the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>going (2 seconds @ x mph).  At high speeds, a larger distance is
>required.  At 10mph, a couple of inches may be sufficient.

NO!!! It is NOT!!!!! The 2 seconds are a REACTION time NOT a braking 
distance. The average time to form a complex reaction to an unexpected 
event is >>>1.5seconds<<<. The 2 second rule is to allow for this + a 
very little margin. It assumes both cars will brake equally 
well........The braking distance is IN ADDITION to this. 

It is NEVER safe to drive closer than 2 seconds unless 
you have a non-human central nervous system.

At 30mph, 2 seconds is 90feet!!! About 7 car lengths (3 for 
americans)!!!!! This is one hell of a distance.

Round here, one second is a normal following distance and 1/2 second 
or less is common :( And these dickheads ALL are convinced they can 
stop............:(   In a Landrover, this is merely potential 
paperwork. On my motorbike it scares me witless.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:31:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Any solutions to a cold engine?

>If I travel along a fast road (ie over 40mph) the temperature drops back
>>down to the bottom of the white.
>Winter thermostat?Remove fan? What happened last winter?
>Cheers
>Mike Rooth

Right-O, Mike!

Thermostat could be sticking open or not present at all. For what its owrth just
replace the darn thing...If all else fails, cover the entire grille...keep your 
eyes on that needle though.

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:37:44 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Rover Anti-theft Methods

>I much prefer the rover dog idea.  People are afraid to even park next to me 
>when 
>my dog is in the rover.
>Eric

Actually its not that they're afraid, it's that their vehicles can't get through
the puddle of doggy drool without a wading kit!

Or is it 90 weight? (oh sorry...10W30?)...

Later
Dave B
thanks for the last slice...

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Serial Number for 107
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:45:00 EST

Thanks to all for advice on the SN for the SI. To add further confusion to 
my problem, examination of the chassis legs revealed the number 22593 
stamped on the left hand front spring hanger. This doesnt match any 
anticipated series. Any more suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 05:56:28 -0800
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Re: D90 - "service engine" vs. "check engine" lights

>In response to the question about the "service engine" light: is this 
the
>one that comes on when the vehicle is due for a dealer service 
emissions
>check (well past 30K miles)?
>As I recall, isn't it a "check engine" light that comes on if the 
engine
>is running badly?

Also it can indicate problems with the electronic fuel injection.  I 
happened to me at 15k and it was a bad relay.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: LHD/RHD
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:56:00 EST

The reason for RHD is one of anatomical correctness. The action of shifting 
gears takes place with the left leg and left hand working in concert 
controlled by the right side of the brain. Could this be the reason North 
America is predominantly equipped with automatic gearboxes? Witness also the 
fact that sports racing cars are historically RHD even when coming from LHD 
countries. Real road racing courses are clockwise.etc. 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 13 Nov 96  9:09:52 EST
Subject: Re: Jack Mac, axle spindles, half-shafts..

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:15:27 -0500
Subject: Re: UK LH/RH Travel...

Not from the UK, but others from US answered, so I'll put forth my
understanding of it:
1) "all roads lead to Rome"
2) Pope somebody or other mandated the side of the road that traffic should
travel on those roads.
3) the UK deviates from that mandate as a form of protest.
4) I shall not open that can of worms- no LR content!

Got more useless knowledge here than useless parts...
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 14:16:19 GMT

> The reason for RHD is one of anatomical correctness. The action of shifting 
> gears takes place with the left leg and left hand working in concert 
> controlled by the right side of the brain. Could this be the reason North 

But I thought left-handed people tended to be right-legged, and right-handed
people tended to be left-legged.

> America is predominantly equipped with automatic gearboxes? Witness also the 

I heard it was because of the laziness of the *general* American population!
:-)
(witness those very annoying "shrink-wrap" seatbelts!)

Being left-handed is annoying, because I steer with my left-hand...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Tailgaters / The two millisecond rule
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 09:09:00 EST

Many, many years ago while in college we had an extremely underpowered 
(1200cc) VW Transporter. The technique we used on the Motorway was to 
tailgate a truck so close that a) He couldn't see us in his mirrors, b)if he 
slowed down we hit him before there was any speed differential worth 
mentioning c) the VW could maintain a reasonable highway speed. Aircooled 
engine meant we didn't overheat.

This morning on four lane portion of crowded QEW at 140kph in left lane I 
was tailgated by an Astro so close I could only see his grille in my mirror. 
Had to do 160 to get away from him (For OPP readers this is a purely 
hypothetical/apocryphal story for the benefit of general amusement)

Land Rover content. 107 ownership has surfaced and I pick it up today, PO 
just called as I was writing this note.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:41:24 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

>Being left-handed is annoying, because I steer with my left-hand...
>Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
That's interesting.You must be very left handed.I'm left handed
and steer with my right.Can you use tools etc with the right hand?
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:47:36 -0500
Subject: Questions about Virginia DMV and Rovering

I am trying to sell a rover to a couple in Virginia. In good faith I told
these people that they could register  the English tags as "vanity" tags.
Also that they could get "historic" tags with out a Virginia safety
inspection. Today I hear from them that according to the DMV that this is NOT
so! ARGH... I have seen ,on Rovers, historic VA tags, also I have been told
that it is possible to register age related tags i.e. 1967 tags on a 1967
Rover and that this will also apply to English "tags" ( If English reg.
plates are not age related I don't know what are.) Do any of our Virginia
list denizens have any experience with any of these matters. I have tried to
call the Virginia DMV and gave up after some considerable time on hold.
On a related note does anyone have any experience with HBL , a Rover dealer
in Woodbridge VA
This is where the Rover is going to be "inspected"

Apologies to all of you out there that have more understanding motor vehicle
officialdom.

Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: Questions about Virginia DMV and Rovering
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 09:59:00 PST

It's possible to do what you say, but does require lots of paperwork on   
the part of the DMV worker.  If he/she is not in the best mood, you might   
get the "no" answer.  When I moved to Virginia, I had a special request   
to ask of the DMV when transferring my car to Virginia.  (Apparently,   
moving from Delaware to VA is not "easy")  Anyway, it took three trips to   
the DMV and I had to deal with a different person each time.   The first   
two times I was told that it was not possible, but on the third try, the   
person would "gladly" do it for me and I would have to wait 20 minutes   
while the task was accomplished.(Keep in mind that I was extremely   
friendly each time so it doesn't always help)

Good luck,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
 ----------
From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, November 13, 1996 9:47 AM
Subject:  Questions about Virginia DMV and Rovering

I am trying to sell a rover to a couple in Virginia. In good faith I told
these people that they could register  the English tags as "vanity" tags.
Also that they could get "historic" tags with out a Virginia safety
inspection. Today I hear from them that according to the DMV that this is   
NOT
so! ARGH... I have seen ,on Rovers, historic VA tags, also I have been   
told
that it is possible to register age related tags i.e. 1967 tags on a 1967
Rover and that this will also apply to English "tags" ( If English reg.
plates are not age related I don't know what are.) Do any of our Virginia
list denizens have any experience with any of these matters. I have tried   
to
call the Virginia DMV and gave up after some considerable time on hold.
On a related note does anyone have any experience with HBL , a Rover   
dealer
in Woodbridge VA
This is where the Rover is going to be "inspected"

Apologies to all of you out there that have more understanding motor   
vehicle
officialdom.

Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 15:02:51 GMT

> >Being left-handed is annoying, because I steer with my left-hand...
> >Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
> That's interesting.You must be very left handed.I'm left handed
> and steer with my right.Can you use tools etc with the right hand?

I guess it depends on the tools. I eat with my knife and fork the "normal"
way.

You have to able to steer with the right hand, otherwise gear changes could
be difficult, but when I'm "cruising with one hand on the wheel, its my left...

Oh, and I also hold cards left-handed, which means I need ambidextrous cards.
Right-handed cards are *so* annoying!

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:06:10 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Any solutions to a cold engine?

 >
>My engine seems to run very cool.
>A hot engine, I can fix - but cool?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>or so before cooling the engine down and blowing out cold air.
>Any suggestions or tips? Areas to investigate?
Ian,

        1) Verify the problem.Your temperature guage my be reading
incorrectly , though lack of heat from the heater is a good indicatior that
it is.
                a) Do a cold startup with the radiator cap off.
        The coolant should not be circulating much. If it is, your thermostat
        may be stuck open.
                b) Using a thermometer (the kind you plug into a turkey or a
        roast can be used) that is put into the open radiator filler, monitor
        the water temperature. The gauge should read somewhere near the
middle
         at 180-190 degrees F, assuming the engine reaches that temp.
                c) As mentioned earlier, until the thermostat opens, there
        should be minimal circulation. That will change once it opens.

        2) Most likely, you will find that;
                a) your thermostat is stuck open or is missing, or;
                b) your temp gauge is inaccurate (much less likely with the
                symptoms you described.

        3) You can test your thermostat in a pot of water on the stove along
with a thermometer. It should open at the temp marked on the thermostat body.

        4) You didn't mention which vehicle you drive. If it's a late model
with a viscous fan, the thermostatic clutch may have malfunctioned jamming
the fan "full on". On a cold start, there should be only a little fan
action with a thermostatic clutch fan. If you fan roars when driving on a
cold morning, this is another indication
                a) On a cold morning, you can test the fan (engine off) by
attemping to spin the fan. If it spins
freely, it unlikely to be the probem. If it won't spin, or spins with
difficulty - there you go!

Hope these basic tips help keep the icicles on the outside of the car this
winter instead of on the inside!

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:20:48 -500
Subject: RHD - WINNER(s)

So, you've all waited with baited breath for the answer to why the 
British drive on the left side of the motorway.  Wait no longer....

Brad followed directions and posted this answer to me privately, so
therefore is the FIRST PLACE WINNER!!!!!!!!!!! Let's all give him a
hand!!!!!  clap, clap, clap...................

>Brad
>bworls@ovnet.com, 

wrote at 23:28, 12 Nov 96:

> I believe it  has to do with jousting.  Left side passes allow the
>weapon to be used in the right hand.  Am I close?

AND

an honorable mention must go to:
>adrian redmond
>CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
                                                  ^^^^^^^^^^
who had the correct answer, but he did not follow the contest rules and 
ISN'T even a BRIT, but a DANE.  He wrote at 22:31 12 Nov 96, (but 
posted to the digest):

>In the days of knights in armour, the brave horsemen would pass each
>other "starboard-to-starboard" thus allowing them their right hand
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>to be a threat.
(Brave?????, sounds rather paranoid to me...........)

Another following later with the correct answer:
John Nyhus, who wrote:
>The ancient army's marched on that side of the road. It permittedt
>their right arm the one that held the sword,  on the side easiest and
>quickest to attack their enemy marching pass.

Isn't it amazing that a Medieval practice has carried forward to the 
present................perhaps we should learn a lesson here and 
re-adopt some of those other Medievlal practices so long ago 
forgotten, such as......................

'Off with 'is 'ead ! (effective with tailgaters)
-Take from the rich and give to the poor. (Trickle down theory for 
  Rangies?)(Was "Robin Hood" merely the anglicised version of "Robbin 
  Bonnett"?)
-Raping, Pillaging and Burning (be sure to complete raping and 
  pillaging befor commencing burning)
-The RACK (or how to make an 88" into a 109")

Any others ?????
(OK, let 'er rip people...)
[Obviously I have way, way too much free time on my hands.  That's why 
I have a Land Rover, and subscribe to this list, NO?]
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 15:57:08 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

I guess it depends on the tools. I eat with my knife and fork the "normal"
way.

You have to able to steer with the right hand, otherwise gear changes could
be difficult, but when I'm "cruising with one hand on the wheel, its my left...
>Oh, and I also hold cards left-handed, which means I need ambidextrous cards.
>Right-handed cards are *so* annoying!
Scissors are the worst!!I eat the normal way round,but then my parents
insisted on it.The only "reversal" to their credit,they *did* insist on.
I find it very useful being virtually ambidextrous where tools are
concerned.Its hilarious seeing most right handed people contorting
themselves trying to get a spanner on when a little practice with the
other hand would make it so easy.Still,I take comfort in a remark made
to me by an ex-RAF flying instructor.I was asking him whether the current
"sidestick" aircraft had provision for left handers.He said no.So I then
asked whether that handicapped left handers in the selection process.He
reckoned that not only did it not,most left handed pilots were actually
*better* than right handers.He put it down to having to adapt all their
lives to a right handed world.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 16:15:50 GMT

> other hand would make it so easy.Still,I take comfort in a remark made
> to me by an ex-RAF flying instructor.I was asking him whether the current
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> *better* than right handers.He put it down to having to adapt all their
> lives to a right handed world.

I can't remember the figures, but a significantly high proportion (ie.
above the "expected") of Apollo astronauts were left-handed...

Anyway, I can fly computer joysticks left-handed!

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 11:16:04 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Questions about Virginia DMV and Rovering

 Do any of our Virginia
list denizens have any experience with any of these matters. I have tried to
call the Virginia DMV and gave up after some considerable time on hold.
On a related note does anyone have any experience with HBL , a Rover dealer
in Woodbridge VA
This is where the Rover is going to be "inspected"

Apologies to all of you out there that have more understanding motor vehicle
officialdom.

Rgds Quintin Aspin

Youve basically got it right, Q, but im not sure about using the Brit tags. You 
can use an age related tag, but this I believe implies use for "shows and 
parades" only. Sort of like the "historic" plates in your home state. Unlike MD 
this does not free you from the yearly inspection. i don't suppose HBL would be 
the best place to do an inspection on a Series Rover, probably better some old 
fart that likes the damn things...
Then you can say stuff like-
"Oh yeah, I'll change those brake shoes before winter...I wouldn'ta put em on 
there if I didn't know they had some miles left in 'em. "
I passed. Probably would not have worked at a place like HBL...but then of 
course Im sure this vehicle is in tip top shape...:-)
Cheers
Dave B. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:18:40 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Noise

>Chris Dow wrote:
>>when I hit the brakes on my IIA while in a parking lot...there was a 
>>terrible rumble under the front of the rover.

I had the same thing and it turned out to be a broken return spring which
had jammed between the backplate and one of the shoes breaking off a piece
of the pad.  It was a scary noise, the fix was straightforward.

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:41:03 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

>I can't remember the figures, but a significantly high proportion (ie.
>above the "expected") of Apollo astronauts were left-handed...
>Anyway, I can fly computer joysticks left-handed!

Well,at least you dont get persecuted these days.When I was at
primary school (yes they *did* have them all that time ago!)
I was literally dragged out of the class because I dared to
write left handed.Was said to be evil,mark of the devil or
something.And yes,it *was* in the 20th century,I'm not that old.
Fortunately my parents intervened...forcefully...Never saw the
teacher again.But it wasnt just a one off,either.
Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:48:14 -0500
From: Brad F Worls <bworls@ovnet.com>
Subject: Re: Any solutions to a cold engine?

Mr Ian Stuart wrote:

> Any suggestions or tips? Areas to investigate?
>      ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.
	
	Hey Ian,
	
	It sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.  If it is stuck open then
the coolant will not heat up as it is constantly flowing through the
radiator.  Might try replacing it.
		Good Luck
		Brad

bworls@ovnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:49:14 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: RHD - WINNER(s)

>> I believe it  has to do with jousting.  Left side passes allow the
>>weapon to be used in the right hand.  Am I close?
Hang about....If two blokes on horseback,clad in recycled car bodies
passed left to left,they'd be riding on the *right* hand side of
the road.Unless one was in the ditch.Because the lance is held in
the right hand,and used *across* the horse.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:50:34 +0000
From: Ian Harper <iharper@afm.org>
Subject: Ron Beckett

To Ron Beckett......thanks for the info, and you can fax me at 519
273-3993.   Sorry I didn't reply personally,as your address was cut
short.

Ian

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 13 Nov 96 11:57:04 EST
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

------------------------------

From: cborders@frodo.okcu.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:02:56 CST6CDT5,M4.1.0,M10.5.0
Subject: prospective range rover buyer

I am interested in purchasing a 1987 - 1990 Range Rover.  Are some years
better than others?  Anything to look out for?  Any suggestions would be
appreciated.  Thanks!!

Chris Borders
cborders@frodo.okcu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:41:15 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Tailgaters

Uncle Roger said slow until they go away as that is what it says to do
in the book.

These drivers manuals are written for people with no brain. They
simplify everything as much as possible to remove the need for thought.
Unfortunately driving is a very complicated procedure in which advanced
thinking is mandatory.

It is too involved to write pages & pages on getting rid of tailgaters,
so they say slow down. This is a dangerous thing to say blindly as a
colleague found out.

He had been on the police better driving course, which is run by the
Hampshire constabulary. He went with the main aim of finding out how to
get rid of tailgaters. He does have a great deal of problems with them.
They said slow down, next question.

Anyway, one day he was driving to work on the same road that he always
drives on and as there are some sharp bends he drives very slowly down
it. About 20 MPH he claims. He was being tailgated so he slowed even
more, as that's what the nice Mr. Policeman said.

I do not know the road, so I do not know if 20 is the max safe speed for
it as he claimed. I do know that he will judge the speed for an entire
road on the slowest part though!!!!

The idiot behind got even more pissed off with this and got closer to
harass him into going faster. So he slowed further. After a while the
idiot passed him, cut in very close to the front of his car and braked
hard. My colleague braked hard to avoid him & his ABS kicked in. The
inevitable happened, the idiot braked really hard from 3 feet infront
and the gap was used up mainly by reaction time. They hit, but not hard
enough for serious damage, neither were hurt. The panel damage bill was
quite high though as the entire front end of one car was trashed & the
back of the other.

The other driver claimed he did that to teach him a lesson. But not
infront of a witness. The police came and refused to attribute blame as
there were no witnesses.

He regularly moans about tailgaters and says he often drives on the road
into work at 15 MPH because of them. The road should be a 60 limit, but
is a 30 limit and most people sit at 50. I get trouble from tailgaters
there as I rarely break the limit.

I asked him why all he ever did was slow down and he said "That's what
the highway code & the police say..."

All it will do is piss them off even more causing you more problems than
you had to start with.

Increasing the gap between you & the car infront is vital though. If
they are up yer bum you need to give yourself as much warning as
possible of the need to brake.

Tailgating is far more dangerous than speeding on quiet open roads, but

guess which one you'll get nicked for :-(

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Jeepy: Cornish for Land Rover
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:29:17 +0000 (GMT)
From: gkb@aber.ac.uk (Gary Barnes)

Earlier, Richard Marsden wrote:
> In the UK, a 110 was on TV (shock horror, like when aren't they?), but it
> saved the day for Billy Connolly.

When he said he couldn't get any further down the track on his trike, but he
had a guide there to help him, I said "Ooh, I wonder if he has a Land Rover
then?". The shot pans across, and I immediately recognise the back of a Land
Rover and burst out laughing. My girlfriend just gave me one of her resigned
"Yes, dear" looks.

Gaz
-- 
 /\./\   gkb@aber.ac.uk (Gary "Wolf" Barnes)
( - - ) "You can always tell when he's tense, the way he scrunches up cups 
 \ " /   and throws them in the bin. And I'm not talking about styrofoam 
  ~~~    I'm talking...   What am I talking?" - The Cat "The Smegups"

------------------------------

From: Alan Jardine <ALAN@atd.co.uk>
Date:          Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:31:11 +0
Subject:       Re: Any solutions to a cold engine?

> From:           "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
> Send reply to:  Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Date sent:      Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:42:06 +0000
> Subject:        Any solutions to a cold engine?

> My engine seems to run very cool.
> A hot engine, I can fix - but cool?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

> My engine seems to run very cool.
> A hot engine, I can fix - but cool?
Check that the thermostat is closing.  The Haynes manual tells you 
how to check it.
 
> Now that winter is almost upon us, I struggle to get the temperature gauge 
> to read above the white.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> engine doesn't heat up any quicker, nor does it appear to get apprecably 
> warmer.

A good quality radiator muff is better.  In really cold weather you 
can completely block the radiator but still allow some air in.
> I have also noticed that the heater system has a marked effect on the 
> engine temperature, with full speed only being available for half-an-hour 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> or so before cooling the engine down and blowing out cold air.
> Any suggestions or tips? Areas to investigate?
You could also install an electric fan which will only cut in once 
the engine is warm and will switch off if the temperature falls.

If you only do short journeys then fit an electric pre-heater to warm 
things up before you start.

If your feeling rich then you can go for a petrol (or diesel) pre-
heater such as the Eberspacher.  I think these can also be set up to 
run the heater in conjunction with the engine.  They cost about 600 
ukp as far as I recall.  They are also more versatile than the 
electric ones as you don't need to find a power outlet.

>      ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
> Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 12:44:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "DAN PRASADARAO, AIR-7.4.1, SECURITY (703)604-2590 X6318"
Subject: Valve Tap?

I am a new owner of a '63 109" petrol.  The previous owner swore that the
tapping noise was just a valve tap.  Silly me, I believed him.  After adjusting
the valves, which were pretty close to where they should be, the tap continues.
 

The motor, at idle, sounds like my '79 diesel rabbit used to.  It quiets down
at speed when the motor is cold but once at operating temp is achieved it does
not quiet down as much.  I have good oil pressure (around 45psi) while cruising
around, this is with a Fram oil filter which I have heard will lower the
pressure by 5psi or so.
 Every now and then the noise will disapear completly for a fraction of a
second when I lift off the throttle.  I would appreciate any suggestions on
where to look next.

Another question I have is regarding the front hubs.  This car has Warn  hubs
on the front.  One local Rover owner says that he just keeps his hubs locked
all the time.  Is this recommended as a general practise?  Or should I just
lock them in and engage the transfer case on a weekly or monthly basis?

By the way, it's impossible to keep a low profile in this thing.  I've met more
people since getting the Rover than I have in the previous 7 years living in
South East Washington D.C.

Dan Rao '63 109" sta wgn

------------------------------

From: Alan Jardine <ALAN@atd.co.uk>
Date:          Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:47:00 +0
Subject:       Re: Getting more heater output...

> From:           debrown@srp.gov
> Date sent:      12 Nov 96 09:16:07 MST
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Originally to:  Land Rover owners        <lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net>,
> Subject:        Getting more heater output...

> FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
>        Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Is there any way to improve the amount of heat output, and specifically,
> air volume from a Smiths heater? I've heard them referred to as

Heat output and air output are two different things.  The smiths 
heater can put out a good air flow.  The amount of actual heat they 
give out depends on how much heat you put in, i.e the engine 
temperature.

By the sound of yours, the motor is not working properly.  The swith 
for the fan should have two positions, make sure yours has otherwise 
you may only be running it at half speed.

As for increasing the heat output you can try rad muffs and pre-
heaters as I told someone else on the list.  See that reply for more 
info.

Alan Jardine.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 13:26:24 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Valve Tap?

>I am a new owner of a '63 109" petrol.  The previous owner swore that the
>tapping noise was just a valve tap.  Silly me, I believed him.  After adjusting
>the valves, which were pretty close to where they should be, the tap continues.
 

First off all, make sure you adjust tyhe valves with the engine hot. 
Try running it with the valve cover off, to see if your rockers are lubricating 
properly. 
Wiggle each rocker side to side by hand to see whether it is loose on the shaft.
Chances are that one or more of them has a worn bushing and that the shaft is 
owrn also. 
If you still hear the tapping it may be possible to determine which valve it is,
using a stethoscope or other "listening device"
After you've set them all and are satisfied with your work, run it for a little 
while or even a day or two and check em again. If you have any uneven wear in 
the cam or tappets, the valves will go out of adjustment.
If that is the case, there isn't much you can do here short of pulling the head 
and micing each tappet roller and if they check out then you need to replace the
cam which you really dont want to do unless you are rebuilding the engine.
I wouldn't worry too much. Unless your valves are really going out of wack then 
its not that big of a deal. 
My engine has always had a persistent tap that WILL NOT go away. Its had a valve
job and new rocker shaft and rocker arm bushings. The engine runs fine and has  
made several 1000+ mile round trips to Boston and elsewhere...
It sounds like a sewing machine...kind of soothing actually...

Cheers
Dave b.

>Another question I have is regarding the front hubs.  This car has Warn  hubs
>on the front.  One local Rover owner says that he just keeps his hubs locked
>all the time.  Is this recommended as a general practise?  Or should I just
>lock them in and engage the transfer case on a weekly or monthly basis?

Don't even start with this again..we just finished a small war over this topic.
Leave the hubs on if they work, ride around town with em locked and unlock em 
for long trips. Nuff said. Dont worry about the transfer box.

>> I've met more
people since getting the Rover than I have in the previous 7 years living in
South East Washington D.C.

Your social life has just begun...congrats!

Dan Rao '63 109" sta wgn

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 13:40:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve Tap?

If this rover is a tan 109 with a few dents I know what the problem
is.............  :-)
Rgds Quintin Aspin
OH I almost forgot Just for arguments sake try a NEW valve cover gasket. 

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:44:35 GMT
Subject:       Re: Tailgaters

Got to agree with Steve Reddock, a near neighbour at just over a 
mile, they are a pain. Although 55 in the rover is to fast for the 
M27 most of the time ;-), Oil spraying, well diesel actually when a 
pipe split one morning, seemed to put the guy behind off, got 
tailgated by the boys in blue for a few weeks after that though :-(.

Some don't even take any notice of a full set of blue lights, when we 
were taking a C-spine injury into Q.A. down the A32 during the 
summer, a woman in a rover (car not 4x4) almost rammed us, we were 
travelling at 30-40 mph, (less when necessary), she came up at 80+ 
round a blind bend (60mph limit), didn't learn from her near miss 
wouldn't back off until we turned on the low level flashing reds, at 
eye height like a rovers tail lights, then she got the message.

Steve's also right, don't antagonize them, some will turn violent, 
road rage etc, one made that mistake long ago with a member of my 
family, his starting handle however, couldn't compete with the 1911A1
(even though it was empty) that had just been collected, he turned 
grey with fright and turned tail, otherwise another family funeral 
would have probably been the order of the day, the problem, the old 
man at 70 mph in a 40 limit wasn't going fast enough for him.....

Cheers Niel.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 13 Nov 96 13:48:10 EST
Subject: Re: Valve tap

------------------------------

From: Preston104@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:11:06 -0500
Subject: NAS D110 Wanted!!

Looking for a NAS D110.  Hoping it does not come from the Rust Belt (where
road salt is used), but willing to consider all.  Would prefer it to be in
excellent shape and not being outrageously overpriced.  Any help would be
great.  E-mail me at Preston104@aol.com

Preston Kelsey
Preston104@aol.com
A former D90 owner looking to be a D110 owner.

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 13 Nov 1996 19:08:56 GMT
Subject:       Re: Nanny state/security.

Yes we are, please don't suggest shooting anybody, you will only make 
a bad situation worse (road tax 13th, suggestion), Kinasaw correct 
spelling ? USA, sensible people/laws (local), reduced crime, UK ban 
everything, bad laws, increasing crime, nanny state going/gone too 
far ? 

Weld a large padlock to your bulkhead, and lock your gear lever in 
reverse, you could also lock the transfer case in neutral !

Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 13 Nov 96 14:45:05 EST
Subject: Detailed 80" Tickford plans?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:51:33 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: Serial Number for 107

Could this be the origional 107" and that #22593 was the prototype code?
You can always hope. Write down all the #s you can find on engine,
transmission, transfer case, chassis etc.. Send it with your question to:

John Riley
Project Eng., Traceability
Rover Group Ltd.
Lode Lane
Solihul
West Midlands B92 8NW

He might be able to be of some help

>Thanks to all for advice on the SN for the SI. To add further confusion to
>my problem, examination of the chassis legs revealed the number 22593
>stamped on the left hand front spring hanger. This doesnt match any
>anticipated series. Any more suggestions?

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, rear Koenig
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-back from the dead "going strong" (Squeak)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 15:16:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Detailed 80" Tickford plans?

>  Now to the point - anybody have an idea where I can get the prints for 
>  the body? 

	Er, maybe in one of the old Series One books I have.  One had drawings
	of the various very early 80" vejicles..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:00:55 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

Richard Marsden wrote:
> > The reason for RHD is one of anatomical correctness. The action of shifting
> > gears takes place with the left leg and left hand working in concert
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> But I thought left-handed people tended to be right-legged, and right-handed
> people tended to be left-legged.

Is that why, when someone has had a few too many and his head isn't
necesarrily doing the driving anymore, he is referred to as being
"legless"?

> > America is predominantly equipped with automatic gearboxes? Witness also the
> I heard it was because of the laziness of the *general* American population!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Being left-handed is annoying, because I steer with my left-hand...
> Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:05:29 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: prospective range rover buyer

Chris,

        Having worked as a LR tech during those years (and later) I have
some perspective on the rigs from that era. These are my opinions and they
may be controversial, but having worked on 10 RRs a day during those times,
I'm entitled. This hits some of the high spots but not every detail.

1987-88: Nice and simple compared to the new ones. Interior gets ratty
quickly and isn't very sylish. Stereo system sucks. Low on power but there
are some helpful tuning tips. Camshafts on 3.5L engines tend to go flat.
Exhaust system very restrictive (3 cats & small header pipes the main
cause). Heater and AC very inefficient compared to later rigs. LT-230
t-case tends to be noisey but is better in the dirt. Will need to learn
manual center diff-lock procedures. Poor fuel economy in general. Fuel tank
rots out (there is a recall). '87s had some auto trans problems but they
should all have failed by now. Auto trans shifts harder than '89 & later
version due to A-clutch differences.

1989: Good year overall. 3.9L engine a big improvement in power.Borg-Warner
t-case is very user friendly but make sure the viscous coupling is
operational before you get stuck somewhere.Cam improved and not prone to
trouble. Exhaust system radically improved resitrictionwise but rear
mufflers tend to die quickly. Interior much nicer. Slightly better stereo
but shorts in stereo wiring common in County editions. Heater and AC
systems improved about 40%. Heater cores tend to leak. New version of EFI
has a few weird (but livable) quirks. A few of the early Borg Warner
t-cases had catastrophic failures.Some power steering pumps leaked. Mid
year, eliminated the exposed door hinges. Later '89s are better.'89 is a
vintage year because LR hadn't crossed the huge technological bridge yet.
Many fewer problems overall with '89s as compared to '87-88.

1990: A nightmare year. Many technological breakthroughs and many, many
bugs.Heater & AC improved again. Front axle (swivels) problems. Another new
EFI system with many more troubles. Several PROM upgrades. ABS glitches and
problems with the ABS hydraulics that continued into 1991. Weird electrical
problems (connections and bad soldering). Engine noises due to incorrect
piston to cylinder clearances (about mid year). Wheel bearing adjustment
problems and stub axle seal problems (seal was installed backwards). Lots
of leaking radiators & water pumps. Power steering box leaks and also at
pump (new version of the pump came out early '91 - no more leaks - box
continued to leak - was the same as '87-89 but they didn't leak???). There
were so many service campaigns in 1990 that my literature pile on that year
is twice as big as any others. Most 1990s should have had all the major
stuff corrected by now but I wouldn't buy one. Aversion therapy, if you
know what I mean.

1991: Better year, especially later vehicles. The 1991 Great Divide Edition
(actually a dolled up 90) was a nice rig. Still the leaking power steering
boxes. EFI and ABS brakes improved, many fewer problems. Front axle
improved, though the swivels tended to leak. New sway bars nice on highway.
1991 Hunter edition was nice and simple. Lacked the ABS and power seats,
plus the whiz bang stereo but was lighter and more nimble. A Hunter would
be my personal choice from this era. They didn't sell well. Still had
piston noise trouble. Stereos so-so but better.

1992: Better yet. Most of the bugs worked out with no other high tech
breakthroughs sincve 1992. The shocks tended to leak. Piston noise problems
fewer but still there. New stereo mounting eliminated many electrical
problems. Stereo systems decent.

        My advice is that if money is a problem, by a good '89. They're
relatively cheap right now. If you want a hard-core off-roader, buy an
'87-88. They're better suited due to LT-230 and simplicity. I'd avoid a '90
but consider a late '91 or a '91 Hunter. The GDE is problematic - it's a
nice rig but still in that bad era. A '92 is a good 'um but higher in
price.
        The build date is on the door on a tag. For these years, buy the
later build rigs if possible.

Good luck!

Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:08:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Questions about Virginia DMV and Rovering

In a message dated 96-11-13 09:50:24 EST, you write:

>that it is possible to register age related tags i.e. 1967 tags on a 1967
>Rover and that this will also apply to English "tags" ( If English reg.
>plates are not age related I don't know what are.) Do

Don't know about VA but here in NY you can register a vehicle that is 25
years or older with appropriate plates from that year provided that the
plates are origional, have the origional 'stickers' which show year of
expiration
 ( years back you got a new sticker to affix to the plate each year) and  are
not duplicates and provided that the insurance for the vehicle states it  is
covered as a historical vehicle and as such  will only be used for parades,
rallies etc and not for daily driving.  The Dept of Motor Vehicles will then
register the car as historic and that will be indicated on the windshield
sticker.
     You would not be able to do that with Foreign plates..I doubt that this
would be possible anywhere in the states as there would be no way for
officials to check the plates thru the DMV computer.
foreign plates are only allowed to be displayed on a vehicle for 30 days
 giving someone who has brought a vehicle into the counrty ample time to have
it correctly registered.
NO Motor vehicle is authorized to operate without safety inspection and in
some parts of NY an emissions test as well
Rgds
Steve Bradke      72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
                         68 S lla 88
                         96 Discovery SE-7    

------------------------------

From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu>
Subject: Series IIA WANTED
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:47:30 -0500 ()

To Those Who May Be Able To Help,

	I am a nineteen year old college student at James 
Madison University.  For the past two years I have been 
restoring a 1962 Morgan 4\4.  I have rebuilt it from the 
ground up.  To save money, many of the pieces were 
homemade: the frame, firewall, and most of the wooden body 
tub including the doors.  The car is complete and the top 
is being fit on it currently.  I have just finished 
assembling the race engine and found the Cortina Gt trany I 
have been looking for.  Over X-mas break I will drop the 
new engine and trany in and get it painted in the spring.
	To get to the point of this note.  I have finished 
this project, for the most part, and I am looking for 
another.  I have the British fever and really want to get 
my hands on a land rover.  I do not want a huge project.  I 
would prefer to be able to drive it and enjoy it as I work 
on it.  I am not totally set on a IIA, but they do seem to 
have the most appeal.  It can be right or left hand drive.  
If you have one you want to get rid of or know someone who 
does, please write.

				Thank you for your Time:)
					JOHN ADAMSON 

-- 
Adamson, John G
adamsojg@jmu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 00:26:47 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Series IIA WANTED

Adamson, John G wrote:
> To Those Who May Be Able To Help,
>         I am a nineteen year old college student at James
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> another.  I have the British fever and really want to get
> my hands on a land rover. 

That's Land-Rover...

 I do not want a huge project.

HAH!

  I
> would prefer to be able to drive it and enjoy it as I work
> on it.

So would we all.

  I am not totally set on a IIA, but they do seem to
> have the most appeal.  It can be right or left hand drive.
> If you have one you want to get rid of or know someone who
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Adamson, John G
> adamsojg@jmu.edu

Cynical comments aside, I don't think you could have chosen better. IMHO
the IIA was the pinnacle of Land-Rover development.

Good Luck John.

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:36:40 -0500
Subject: heater

Bruce at DAP once told me that the heater box from some sor of AMC, like a
Gremlin or a Pacer will slide right into place and produces some damn skippy
heat.
We Landy drivers should be fully comfortable with the concept of "gremlins"
anyway.

Good Luck
Alex Maiolo
69 IIa
89 Rangie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:37:11 +1000
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: re tailgaters

Steve Reddock said:
"People get very bloody minded about tailgaters and upset by them. Don't
let it get to you. If there is a large queue behind you who are actually
being held up by you, rather than just behind you should pull over at a
suitable opportunity. This is regardless of whether you are doing 10 MPH
or 40 MPH. If you are doing 50 or more in a 60 limit road, you are
probably justified is not pulling over, but much less than that and you
really should.'"

"It is still the ultimate way of deterring tailgaters. Well most. Some
will pull over behind you. In this case it's low ratio reverse & full
throttle. Unless it's the police!"

Agreed in full; pull over on shoulder of the road (carefully dodging 
guide posts and roadkills) and let 'em go around. But still some days 
you can get upset by them. Most roads here have only one lane each way. 
Anything else is a bypass, a freeway or a tollway. There also exists a 
common custom of notifying oncoming traffic that there is a highway 
Policeman waiting for them further down the road; ie you flash your 
headlights. This 'matey' custom serves to save money and licences. ..but 
it can also be a means of obtaining an evil and devious satisfaction...

Your state of mind: I've been tailgated all day & HATE them fast 
freddies. 

Road situation: single lane for each direction. Daylight. You are the 
last or next to last of traffic going in your lane direction. You have 
waited for traffic conditions like this anticipating..

Traffic situation: oncoming/opposite traffic has been negotiating S 
bends or hills and you can see that tailgating a truck or Landie is a 
fast freddie,and he's as close as possible to the centre line, and now 
salivating because the road is straightening and there is 'window' of 
limited overtaking opportunity as soon as your vehicle is out of the 
way..

Action: flash those headlights of yours and make him hesitate just long 
enough to kill 'the window' or back off and 'stay put' for miles for 
fear he will be nailed by radar. I may want to imagine just how long 
he'll 'stay put' and what's happening here? Am I to have a giggle at 
'fast freddies' expense? 
 
Answer: "and loving it!" When the situation presents itself, do it. On 
the other hand maybe it's time to install a radio or cd..

Ross in a RHD 'freeway challenged' country.
http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/index.html

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:47:43 -0500
Subject: Re: No Subject

In a message dated 96-11-13 07:17:02 EST, David Olly writes:

 > Hi all,
 > does anyone know, how to make a SIII 88 2.25 Petrol water proof !
  >>

First, silicone caulk EVERY nook cranny and crevice on the truck. Double
caulk the doors and windsheild shut. Next, weld in a submarine type hatch so
you can enter through the bottom of the vehicle and air-lock it closed.
Third, park it in a garage.

Erm....on second thought, it will probably still leak.

David....................how long have you had your truck?
hahahahaha

ALex Maiolo
69 IIA (bathtub on wheels)
89 Rangie

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Second Hand Alum. Hard Tops for LR
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 10:14:00 EST

Just to annoy you NAS blokes, below are some ads from today's paper

LR SIII Hardtop LWB with tailgate $650
LR 109 rear body , good condition $250
LR Defender double cab utility body, brand new with canvas canopy $900
LR IIA LWB hard top $400
LR IIA LWB ute back $150, tailgate $40, guards $70

Having spoiled your day.... I'll go away.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:23:56 -0500 (EST)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Parts microfiche

 I have the following microfiche parts list for disposal :-
rtc 9947fa  Aug 89 Disco     3 fiche
RTC 9841FAM ser 3 LR June 94  3 fiche
RTC 9841FZ ser 3 July 86  3 fiche
RTC 9841 FAJ ser 3 Oct 92 3 fiche
RTC 9932 FU Def 110 1987 on  7 fiche
RTC 9863 FJ  July 85 LR 110  5 fiche
RTC 9908 FV Range Rover 1986 on  5 fiche
RTC 9846 FZ may 1985  Range Rover up to 85 4 fiche
 RTC 9842FAF optional Equipment  ser 2 , 3 and 109 V8  2 fiche
RTC 9842 FAI  Optional Equipment ser 2,3  FEb 96 2 fiche
RTC 9842 FY Optional Equipnser 2, 3 and 109 V8  March 85 2 fiche
RTC 9868 FZ Defender 90 Oct 1990 5 fiche
RRC 9868 FJ LR 90 Aug 86  4 fiche

Offers to Bill Leacock at  wleacock@pipeline.com
 
Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:35:48 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Any solutions to a cold engine?

Mr Ian Stuart wrote:
> My engine seems to run very cool.
> A hot engine, I can fix - but cool?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

Try putting a new thermostat in because it sounds like it is sticking 
open and not letting the engine get up to temp.  In very cold climates 
like Canada, we totally cover the rad and in some cases disconnect it 
since you really never need it at -40.  My 1985 Blazer never comes off 
the warm area in Winter even with an engine cover.  That is just the 
nature of the new aluminum engines.  Older ones at leat were a bit less 
efficient and did warm to some extent, but we had to put very hot 
thermostats in.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:31:16 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RHD ???

Mike Rooth wrote:
> >< Since you hold your lance in your right gauntlet, you'll want to pass
> >< your foe on your right so as to get a bigger piece of him.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> enough to do anything else!
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth

Well Mike you seem to agree with my Nepoleon posting.  I further read 
that he did it to confuse the enemy.  If you made a country change such a 
basic thing as which side of the road to drive on, you had the place tied 
up for weeks and it gave you a military advantage.  I think I took this 
in grade 12 some 35 years ago. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:18:42 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Getting more heater output...

Mike Loiodice wrote:
> Dave "woosie" Brown asks...
> >Is there any way to improve the amount of heat output, and specifically,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mike (basking in the warmth of my Kodiak)

Yes I mentioned the Chev Van heater.  It is -24 today and the heater 
works well.  It is from a 1979 GMC Rally STX, and it is the rear aux. 
heater used to heat the rear area.  It is three speed and if you are 
careful and remove the wire harness, you can mount the switch on the left 
of the steering column very nicely.  It has plugs so you don't have to 
damage the wire, and it has rubber grommets that allow you to do a 
professional installation with the old heater.  I swear by mine.  It is 
only about 10" x 10" so it doesn't take up much space.  I have mine on 
the wheel well right behind the driver seat between the spare and the 
wall.  It warms the front and back very well.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:55:23 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Valve Tap?

DAN, PRASADARAO,, AIR-7.4.1,, SECURITY, (703)604-2590, 
X6318@playground.sun.com.sun.com wrote:
> I am a new owner of a '63 109" petrol.  The previous owner swore that the
> tapping noise was just a valve tap.  Silly me, I believed him.  After adjusting
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> South East Washington D.C.
> Dan Rao '63 109" sta wgn

You might want to take a wooden dowel and resting it near your ear flap, 
place it on different parts of the engine till you isolate the area it is 
coming from.  Of course if you have a stethoscope use it.  I know that 
the round puck like things (valve lifters) can get out of round and they 
will make a noise that comes and goes as the thing turns around.  This 
can be the cause of problems getting the valves set up correctly.  They 
will be fine when you set them and ten minutes of running and they are 
all out of adjustment.  The other place to check for a rattle like you 
describe is the chain.  It can slap under load and really cause a rattle. 
 Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:24:27 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Land-Rover Newport Beach

Steve Paustian wrote:
> Hello the list,
>         Has anybody heard of or done business with Land Rover Newport
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
> President, Flatland Rover Society
> 04/500 D90SW

I was into Birchwood Motors in Winnipeg and while there tried to buy 
their large round logo that was on the window.  They told me that they 
had to have it made locally because Land Rover didn't supply them!  They 
had theirs made the same size as the BMW one on the other bay window so 
they would match.  They were close to Land Rover as we know them, but not 
quite the same.  Maybe that is the reason your logo is not quite right.  
By the way, they told me there are only 2 Defenders left unsold in Canada 
at last report.  They also told me that they have all kinds of calls from 
people wanting to buy Ser. type vehicles.  The tech wanted me to bring in 
my restored 69 so he can make love to it :-)  Dave Ve4PN
P.S.  In this shop the techs wear white lab coats no less.  You could eat 
off the floor of the shop.  I wonder where I would park my oil well while 
I visit :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 17:22:27 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: tailgaters

At 01:58 PM 11/13/96 +0000, you wrote:
>NO!!! It is NOT!!!!! The 2 seconds are a REACTION time NOT a braking 
>distance. 

Right, but that 2secs plus your speed determine the distance you need to
have between you and the car in front.  As in...

>At 30mph, 2 seconds is 90feet!!! About 7 car lengths (3 for 
>americans)!!!!! This is one hell of a distance.

Increasing the speed means increasing the distance.  Decreasing the distance
requires a similar decrease in speed (to remain safe).  So, if someone
closes the distance, for your own safety, slow down.  Which, of course, is
what we've said all along.  (Are you *sure* this horse is dead?)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 03:50:38 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Detailed 80" Tickford plans?

At 02:45 PM 11/13/96 EST, you wrote:
>So call me crazy - I want to build a Tickford.

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>along well, and I can see this being a great long-term project. 
>Now to the point - anybody have an idea where I can get the prints for the
body?
>    Al Richer

Hi
 Someone up-north told me there's an 80"  "pickup" in a yard near him.
I intend to check it soon and get it ,if I can.
Keep in touch and I'll let you know more details.
Were these originally made of wood? 
bye
Ofir
Israel

1951 sI 80"  1600cc ur
1964 sIIa 88" 2250cc ur

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 22:57:38 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Right answer

>To: jtackley.dit@state.va.us

Goes back as far as ancient Greece and Rome actually, sword fighting, then 
later lances and such, eventually surfacing with "posthillion" riders on 
English freight wagons.  They drove on the left side of the road so:

1)When using the whip with the right hand, it wouldn't whack the load/people 
on the wagon behind.

2) You could keep an eye on the wheels of the wagons coming in the opposite 
direction to avoid a wreck.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 22:57:32 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Shifty whatzits

John Tackley writes:

>Has anyone successfully repaired this problem in the vehicle, or should I
>just order new parts and learn the hard way how long it takes to remove
>all the floorboard fastenings and thr gearbox cover ???

Well, it could be worse...like when I broke mine.  It was 35F *below* zero.  
So cold, the metal become brittle and the shift lever broke off...in 
neutral. I was returning from the Jay Peak ski area to the lodge (too cold - 
wind chills close to 100 below and the ski area actually closed).  No one 
answered a call on the CB (in a valley), though both cars that came by in 
three hours promised to call a tow truck.  Despite the heater being on high, 
when beer inside the cooler (to keep it warm) began to solidify, it was time 
for action.

Modified the screwdriver in the kit with a roadside rock, fitted it into the 
little slot on the side of the shift ball.  The 6" lever was now enough to 
shift into first and second, not enough for the throw to third.  No matter,
I was rolling.

12 miles later, I made it to the metropolis of Montgomery Center, Vermont.  
There, the only tow truck was in for repairs - in the only repair bay.  So I 
had to disassemble the whole front floor, but by now, it had warmed to a 
balmy 20 below.  Took it inside to be welded. $5 and nearly frostbitten 
fingers.  Fortunately, Kilgore's New Trout Saloon was right next door.  

The weld worked for about four years.  The next time it broke, it was 
summertime and it fractured just above the weld.  Closer examination of the 
metal revealed some obvious flaws in the metal's structure.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Beatles song trivia
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:25:23 -0500

Don't know Beatles song, but, as I have posted before, McCartney did =
*HELEN WHEELS* - a song about his Land Rover named Helen, on the Band On =
The Run album from the early `70s! The refrain went something like, =
Helen.... Hell on wheels.... Kinda a neat song... So, Sandy, does this =
at least get partial credit???

Cheers
Jim

----------
From:  Jeff Gauvin[SMTP:jeffg@minerva.co.symbios.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, November 13, 1996 4:48 PM
Subject:  RE: Beatles song trivia

RoverNut@aol.com wrote

> Don't know the answer to the Beatles song question, but Pavement talks =
about
> "Range Rovin' with the cinema stars"

I think the Beatles song is "While my car gently leaks"

--
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:48:30 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: LANGUAGE!

Come now folks ! Don't use such nasty language, just ask nicely !

Cheers
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 00:54:58 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Land-Rover Newport Beach

 <They had theirs made the same size as the BMW one on the other bay window so
>they would match.  They were close to Land Rover as we know them, but not
>quite the same.  Maybe that is the reason your logo is not quite right.

I can't believe that LR wouldn't supply their authorized dealers with the
marketing tools they needed to make the parent company (LR) money, but
then, I wouldn't have dreamed that they would put an auto box in a Defender
either.

>By the way, they told me there are only 2 Defenders left unsold in Canada
>at last report.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>off the floor of the shop.  I wonder where I would park my oil well while
>I visit :-)
Park it in the middle of the place and tell the tech that its K-Y jelly
dripping out the bottom, then charge him by the hour to roll around in it.
;^*

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 22:36:10 -0800
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Two questions: D-90

>From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
>Sent:  Monday, November 11, 1996 11:57 PM
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>speeds
>and when I am turning.  Any suggestions?

I never cease to be amazed at the relative ignorance of car dealers.
"Truck brakes," indeed...  The brake problem could be due to a couple of
things.  One is because they've taken all the asbestos out of brake linings
in the US (a dumb idea in my opinion), so today's pads are very metallic
and have a terrible tendency to vibrate, which is what the squeal actually
is.  I have had this problem on my Range Rover.  The only cure I have found
is too complex for a short posting and involves drilling the back of the
pads and using a set of BMW teflon pad back plates and anti-squeal
compound.  It works, but it's an involved process.

You didn't say how many miles you have on your D90, but another source of
your squeal problem might be that one or more pistons are hanging up in a
caliper.  This can happen if the chrome plating wears off and the piston
rusts.  The pad can be held tighter against the rotor when this happens,
and could result in problems like squealing rythmically at low speeds,
faint squealing when cornering, brake chatter,  and in a worst-case
scenario, rotor warping.  Remove the wheel and pull the pads, and easy job,
and see if you're getting any brake fluid seeping out of one or more
pistons, and if the pistons move freely in their cylinders.  If there is
evidence of a leak or a piston is rusty, you'll need to replace or rebuild
BOTH calipers.  It's a bad idea when dealing with hydraulic systems to do
only one "side."  So if you have a bad piston or seal in one of your front
calipers, replace or rebuild both of them.  Otherwise you run the risk of
uneven braking, and if one caliper has problems, it's not unlikely that the
other one will have problems soon, too.

On my Range Rover, the "Service Engine" light refers to a time interval.
After 42,000 miles, the light comes on to remind you to check or replace
some of the emission system components.  Whether or not you do is up to
you.  Shutting off the light and resetting the circuit is a simple matter
of sticking a metal pin like a paper clip into a hole in the top of a
little container on a circuit board that has the timing circuit in it.  I
assume this discharges a capacitor or something, because the light will go
out until the car racks up another 42,000 miles.  I have no idea if the D90
uses the same system, but since it's the same engine I would expect it
would have something similar. In my case, the circuit board is under the
passenger seat.

If the light has come on before the allotted mileage, then it's due to
something else.  I have no idea why the light would affect or be affected
by the operation of the engine.  If the light is a "Check Engine" light, it
might be telling you that there's a problem with an oxygen sensor in the
exaust pipe.  As the oxygen sensor affects the mixture being fed to the
engine, that could conceivably affect the running, although its effect is
usally only noticeably at higher rpms under a load, like going up a hill.

Hope this helps,

C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:34:15 +0000
Subject: Result: Any solutions to a cold engine?

Lots of people suggested replacing the themostat.

4 quid later, new thermostat (92 degrees instead of 88).  The gauge now 
reads fractionally into the "normal" area, but still suffers from the 
cooling effect of high-speed drives and the heater.

I've had an electric fan from a car and will try fitting it over the 
weekend (so many jobs, so little time :)

I will keep you all informed of the outcome....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:37:47 GMT
From: land-rover@ormtec.demon.co.uk (Dave White)
Subject: Re: I've got one too!

In message <328b0ccc.550589@mailgate.ftech.co.uk> alex@adtech.ftech.co.uk (Alexander Dady) writes:
> Hello
> Back in February I was looking for a car to replace my Toyota Celica
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> drove the thing fom Somerset to North London (I was rather suprised to
> make it...)
Good on you....
> When it rains heavely (I think), the power seems to go right down and
> the engine backfires when I take my foot off the accelerator, any idea
> what this could be?  Does it just need 'tuning'??

Sounds like a new set of ht leads (or a bit of WD40 on yours) might help
if they are getting damp in this situation, you will get less spark....
> Do all overdrives make such a bloody loud noise??
> the engine backfires when I take my foot off the accelerator, any idea
It was my understaning that a lot do, but that it means an averhaul would
be useful!
> The only other thing I can say is that it's quite suprising how many
> other road users show you some respect when you come rolling towards
> them in a tatty LR with grills on the front and a full roll cage ;)

I look forward to this if I ever get the old girl on the road....
> The only other thing I can say is that it's quite suprising how many
> other road users show you some respect when you come rolling towards

-- 
Dave White
Work: 01482 804104
Home: 01482 345860

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: RHD/LHD
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 02:06:52 -0700 (MST)

I think Sandy Grice came closest to the most plausible answer about the 
origins of left- and right-hand driving.  Armies, ancient, medieval, or 
modern, are relatively insignificant factors.  (When's the last time two 
armies converged on a road, and at the last moment drew their swords and 
whacked each other just because they happened to be on the right side?!  
Don't you think they would have deployed off the road into battle 
formation long before?)

There are some reliable sources on this question.  According to Cecil
Adams "Return of the Straight Dope" (1994), it has to do with drey-wagons
in the 1700s.  The US and France, having lots of space, took to using big
wagons to haul products from farm to city.  These big wagons lacked a
driver's seat so the driver sat on the left rear horse of his team.
Sitting on the left, you want to pass on the left so you can see the other
fellow's wheels as you passed.  Hence, you drive on the right. 

In England (small surface area), wagons were smaller, with a wide seat in
the center.  Drivers usually sat on the right side of the seat so as to
more efficiently flog their team (most people flog with their right hand). 
In logical progression, they wound up driving on the right. 

The definitive answer can be found in:

Kincaid, Peter.  The Rule of the Road: An International Guide to History
and Practice.  Greenwood Press, 1986.  ISBN 0-313-25249-1

Writes Kincaid: "In summary, different types of transport, all used by
right-handed people, tended to produce different rules of the road.  Armed
walkers and armed horsemen tended to keep left to leave their swordarms
free.  Horse riders kept left in any case because they mounted from the
left and stayed near the edge where it was easier and safer to mount and
dismount than in the middle of the road.  People leading horses with their
right hands tended to keep right because the led horse was then protected
from passing traffic.  Carters tended to keep right because they walked on
the left side of their horses, leading with the right hand, and by keeping
right could walk in the middle of the road...to avoid collisions. 
Postilion riders tended to keep right because they sat on the left-rear
horse and thus could better judge clearances....Drivers who sat on the
vehicle kept left because they sat on the right to keep their whip hands
free and could judge clearances better when passing if they kept left."

Kincaid describes other contributing factors such as conformance with
neighbors, influence of colonization, national unity, imported vehicles,
etc.  Although we tend to think of a keep-left rule requiring right-hand
controls, and vice versa, he points out a number of instances where
curbside controls have been preferred to centerline controls.

As of 1986, he counts 118 "independent territories" with right-hand traffic
and 51 with left-hand, adding: "The above figures show what a minority rule
left-hand traffic is today. Countries which use it account for only about a
third of the world's population, a sixth of its area, a quarter of its
roads, and a sixth of its motor vehicles."  A number of countries have
changed their rule of the road, including, since 1950: Cameroon, Belize,
Ethiopia, Sweden, Bahrain, Iceland, Burma, Sierra Leone, Nigeria, Ghana,
and South Yemen.  All these but Burma changed from left to right.

The Encyclopedia of American Business History and Biography: The Automobile
Industry 1896-1920 suggests the reason for driving on the right might be a
little more mundane.  In several articles the encyclopedia indicates that
some automobile manufactures placed the steering wheel on the right, but
that over time Americans came to prefer the wheel on the left.  Perhaps the
American adoption of driving on the right came from where they perfered to
steer rather than the other way around

Two additional articles on subject: 

"Left-Right: why driving rules differ," by Richard H. Hopper.  
TRANSPORTATION QUARTERLY, Vol. 36, no.4, October 1982: 541-548.

"The Rule of the Road," by George M. Gould.  POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY, 
Vol.72, Jan-June, 1908: 52-65. 

Land Rover content:  the very first LR was neither right-hand nor 
left-hand drive.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:12:17 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Nanny state/security.

>everything, bad laws, increasing crime, nanny state going/gone too
>far ?

You forgot the British Standard Bedtime for kiddywinks,Niel.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:36:40 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: 90 Squealing brakes

Daniel Palmer writes:
>2nd - my right front brake spueals.  The Land Rover dealer says it is because 
>they are "truck brakes".  I question this because only one brake squeaks.  
>Additionally, the brake has started to squeal when I am driving at slow speeds 
>and when I am turning.  Any suggestions?

Try removing the pads and coating their non-friction surfaces with
copperslip (a copper containing anti-sieze compound), as this sometimes
effects a cure. Make sure all the pistons are free to move in their calipers
as well, since a siezed piston can make the brakes wear unevenly and cause
squeal.

Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RHD??
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 20:58:00 EST

I understood that American cars WERE RHD until Henry Ford came along and 
changed it with the Model T.  It's a good thing his pedal placement didn't 
catch on.

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 10:27:14 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  Any solutions to a cold engine?

Ian writes:
>My engine seems to run very cool.
>A hot engine, I can fix - but cool?

Is the thermostat working or present?

Isn't your machine an ex-MOD with an oil cooler? There is a thermostat for
this system as well. The huge 8 blade fan on these motors doesn't help either.

Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 06:31:22 -0500
Subject: subscription

Hello,
I am interested in suscribing to LRO Digest.  Please inform me how to go
about or sign me up from the info here.  Thanks.
tbache9248@aol.com

------------------------------

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