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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: BBList
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 07:48:00 EST

Attention Tom Rowe
Tom, your mail is getting bounced. Is your mailbox full?

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:20:28 -0500
Subject: Re: 6 cyl. Engine #...

Manny Garcia <mann@epic.net> wrote-

"...6 cyl engine block....  I also think i found the

c/shaft for it (7M/Brg).  The number on the engine is roverish - 550070...."

I looked that number up in a "Rover 3 Litre Parts Catalogue", 1967 edition.
The closest that resource gets me is #550071, which is the "Housing for
Flywheel" for a MkIII P5. I think that the number you quoted is for a
flywheel housing, not the motor itself. Check up front on the motor,
immediately in front of the oil filler. You'll find a number imprinted that
is vertically oriented, readable from the front. This will be the actual
motor number, and will assist in identification and vintage. My guess is that
it's from a late '66 or '67 109.....
Don't toss it.....
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!
  Wanted-> LHD P5B any condition considered, must be in NA 
jdolan2109@aol.com

P.S. snowing in Vermont today, and it's staying... 

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:28:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Chassis and bulkhead FS in PA

brad writes....

 would OVLR possibly be short for Ohio Valley Land Rover???? If would

someone please give me some contact info.

OVLR = Old Vikings Leave Ruts

see ya' in the mud
rgds,
spenny

Land Rover, 4WD of choice for the information superhighway
69 SWB, The Wayback Machine
Arlington, Virginia

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:28:50 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Series One questions

Dear all, this message somehow got lost. I posted it last week but then the 
major broke down. Can you help? Ofir is trying to restore an 88" and an 80" 
and would appreciate direct answers since he is not on uk-lro; I would be 
grateful for a copy of your reply. Thanks in advance!

Ofir wrote:
>>Right now I'm still on the 88" chassis but it's good practice for
>>my "real" project my 1951 80" ,it's in much better shape except i'll need a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>the engine is radically different from the 1600 or the 2000. Not really sure 
>what the answer would be. What's wrong with your 1600 engine?

As I mentioned before ,the 80" was in a stable yard since 1972 .Some parts
were taken
from it :mainly the engine head and oil bath ,also one cylinder is missing
(!) it's
rusted . At least the water pump is good and also the original honeycomb
radiator.
The gear was good (so the PO said) and when he wanted to show me he switched
the 
Hi-Lo lever & broke it housing !
Well, I think it would be very difficult to fix the engine but I'm still on
the lookout for parts. Recently somone who's selling a 1962 88" told me he
remembers a sI
pickup in a backyard up north .So I'll make the trip this week.
The SII 88" county owner wants 5,000$ for it ,the frame is good and also the
rest.
What is the price in Europe for a good sII ? and sI?

Could you give me a price estimate on what it would cost for a 2l or 1.6l ?
Is there a site on the net in europe where I can check?
Thank you 
Ofir

1951 sI 80"      1.6l  ur  (was - Israel Border Patrol)
1964 sIIa 88"    2.25l ur  (was - Jordan Legion)
Renault   0.85l     "The yellow bug" (was - R4 )
ofir_n@inter.net.il

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:32:13 -0500
Subject: Re: 'seat of the pants' advice about seat of the valves?

> As I'm planning my course for this, I'm considering
>  what hardened valves and not installed hardened seats would be? Actually I
>  don't think the expense is that great to have them cut in, but the idea of
>  more parts involved is not too welcomed. ... So, has anyone any
>  experience with just the valves replaced and not cutting in new seats? Or
is
>  this 'penny wise, pound foolish'?

No direct experience, but I've always figured its better to have the wearing
surface on the cheaper to replace parts (valves) and not the expensive part
(head). My concern has been that just replacing the valves will if anything
accelerate erosion of the seats in the head.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:02:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Back off!

OH YES, OH YES!!!!!

We used to do this with tanks when they were still petrol powered and had
magnetos.  They had exhaust deflectors which we "strategically" raised for
operation on the street.  Someone tailgates, the tank commander informed the
driver, who switched off the mags, romped on the gas a couple of times and
then relit the mags.  Nice flame 3-5 feet long out both exhausts (V-12
Continental).  Most impressive, especially at night.

BTW, the guys who had to refuel us on the run didn't seem to mind an idling
engine during the day, but seemed most unnerved when they saw the nice blue
flame exhaust at night.  Could imagine why, simply because they were sitting
on 5000 gallons (US) of petrol!!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 16:13:43 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Gallons, liters and such

Ron gave us:

>Conversion of l/100km to mpg (Imperial)

>   mpg  =      282.48 / (l/100km figure)

For US gallons it would be

    mpg  =      235,24 / (l/100km figure)

Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:49:29 +0000
Subject: Re: BBList

> Attention Tom Rowe
> Tom, your mail is getting bounced. Is your mailbox full?

Nope. They changed the name of our server, and the DNS people removed 
the alias without telling anyone. I also didn't realize I was still subscribed with the 
ae.agecon domain. I'll unsubscribe.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 14:30:12 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: Camel pissing contest...

Adams, Bill wrote:
> I can't speak for others, but I think I have plenty of challenges in my
> life without taking on a bunch more in the form of a two month long
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
> Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

Yeah, Let's fix his smokey diesels :-)
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

          _______________                
         //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
   ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
  |   __            __   |#   
  |__/  \__________/  \__|    My next one = Lightweight
     \__/          \__/    

 http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html

      \|/
     ( ..)                
 --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:30:44 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: RR Analyzer

>Has anybody in the list heard of a "Test Book Analyzer" ?   It's supposed to
>be a computer of some sort to analyze or troubleshoot RRs - anybody has an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Manny Garcia
>mann@epic.net

Manny,

Test Book is a $25,000 machine used at Land Rover dealerships to test the
complicated systems on the newer rigs. As I recall, it will work on only
14CUX systems and later (1990-up) In addition to the EFI, it can test the
anti-lock brakes, AIS (air suspension), BeCM (the master brain for the
4.0SE) and many other systems. It's snazzy all right!
        The older tester, for EFI & ABS only, was the HHT (hand-held
tester). It was only a couple of grand and may still be available through
dealerships. It was simpler to use but limited.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:30:40 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: 'seat of the pants' advice about seat of the valve

>I'm going to pull an 8:1 head this morning and send it out to be redone.
>with valves cracking in the past, and given the manner in which the LR is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>what hardened valves and not installed hardened seats would be? Or is
>this 'penny wise, pound foolish'?

To be blunt, just about everything you've done to your head was off the mark.

        1) Lapping should be done by hand - not with a drill. It should not
be done in place of cutting the seats and valves. Lapping is generally used
as a final seating method for a properly machined valve job. The method
involves a suction-cupped lapping tool and a rotating motion between your
hands, kind of like the old Boy Scout fire starting trick, lifting the
valve frequently and changing position.
        2) Don't be cheap, get the hard seats and the Stellite valves. As I
recall, the later factory valves were Stellite. In the long run, you'll be
happier.
        3) How about valve adjustments? Regularly done and properly? Beyond
the method outlined in the manual, I like the following: Rotate the engine
clockwise (plugs out) until the exhaust rocker of number four has depressed
and starts back up. As it gets to the top, the intake valve will start to
open. When the valves overlap, stop and adjust the valves on #1 cylinder-
they're both on TDC. Repeat finding the overlap point and adjusting the
opposite valve, #1 overlaps-adj #4, #2 overlaps-adj #3, #3 overlaps-adj#2,
#4 overlaps-adj#1. The sequence will follow the firing order, 1-3-4-2.
        4) Why do you think your Weber runs lean? I've run several over the
years with no trouble. What indications do you have. Earlier this year, I
flow- benched all the popular 2.25 carbs (see a later edition of LROI for
the article), and the Weber flowed considerably more air than either the
Solex or the Zenith. This is an indication that this carb can produce some
extra power at higher rpms. My own "seat of the pants" testing a few years
ago confirmed this. It could run my engine (with headers, free flow exhuast
and a K&N air filter) up past 5200rpm (with some unfortunate results). I
think you valve problems are poorly seated valves.
        5) Don't go for the cut-rate valve jobs. All reputable shops should
do a 3-angle job, with the 45 degree (or 30 degree in the case of the
intakes) face at .040-.060" width. Make sure the guides are adequate. Loose
guides can case premature valve failure. Don't let anyone talk you into
teflon valve seals or any 100% positive seal with the stock guides. They
are soft and need a certain amount of lubrication. Only silicon bronze can
run without lubrication.
        6) Do it right and do it once!

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 15:04:30 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: Wading question

Nathan Dunsmore wrote:
> Had a great time through the waters last night.  It was a lot deeper
> than I thought it would be.  Didn't put in wading plugs and travelled
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Thanks
> Nate

If you forgot the wading plugs, I should buy a spare startermotor.
The water and dirt that is trowing-in by the flywheel will damage
your startermotor.  Check also the distribution side for dirt.

 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

          _______________                
         //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
   ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
  |   __            __   |#   
  |__/  \__________/  \__|    My next one = Lightweight
     \__/          \__/    

 http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html

      \|/
     ( ..)                
 --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 17:47:30 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: HELP!!!! Series III CAV Diesel distributer pump

HELP folks - is there anyone out there who's an expert on the CAV diesel
distributor pump on the 1976 diesel Series III (109")

This afternoon I went for a short drive, and noticed  that the 19 was a
tad perkier than usual, better acceleration, highr top speed, more "zip"
you could say - but also a strong smell of diesel.

Upon under bonnet inspection I discovered that the governer screw on the
dist.pump which governes the travel of the gas regulator had fallen out
- hence the increased revs and power!

The inside of the engine compartment was covered in clean diesel, and it
appeared to be coming out of a fine jet in the side of the dist.pump,
just beside the fuel outlet to the injector - the outlet which sits
closest to the air filter canister.

I thought at first that it was a leaking gland, but this doesn't seem to
be the case, as the leak seems to be behind the gland, but I cannot see
any hole/leak. It is not a missing bleed-screw.

Before I dismantle the CAV to see what the problem is, i would be
grateful for any words of wisdom from you guys - CAN ANYONE ADVISE?

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:07:56 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: HELP!!!! Series III CAV Diesel distributer pump

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Before I dismantle the CAV to see what the problem is, i would be
> grateful for any words of wisdom from you guys - CAN ANYONE ADVISE? 

You shouldn't dismantle the cav yourself, because it is calibrated
and you can't adjust it yourself.  You can take it off and see if
there are parts missing/falling out and maybe tighten some leaky
screws, but do not try to dismantle it !
Even a garage is not capable to fix it.  I think that you have to
take it to someone that is specialised in dieselpomps.  If you can
fix it without opening it that will be o.k.  
A exchange unit is maybe the best but very expencive solution,
(about 200 £) If you opened it they will not take it back and you will
have to pay 300 £ for a replacement.
regards,
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

          _______________                
         //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
   ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
  |   __            __   |#   
  |__/  \__________/  \__|    My next one = Lightweight
     \__/          \__/    

 http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html

      \|/
     ( ..)                
 --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 19:28:35 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: HELP!!!! Series III CAV Diesel distributer pump

Rokegem Luc wrote:
> Adrian Redmond wrote:
> > Before I dismantle the CAV to see what the problem is, i would be
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 38 lines)]
>       \|/
>      ( ..)
>  --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

Thanks Luc - I seem to remember that from a previous problem with my
other LR - I have examined the pump and think now that i can see the
problem....

On the side of the dist.pump which faces the air-filter (away from
motor) is a "bulge" where the alu. pump body sticks out from the
otherwise circular form. This "bulge" contains the two gas levers which
are controlled by the gas pedal and the stop cable.

This "bulge" has a gasket between in and the main housing, it seems to
be a red cardboard/fibre gasket. The top of this gasket has blown
(probably because of too high revs due to governer screw missing.

Does anyone know if this gasket can be replaced without critical and 
re-calibration demanding workshop service. Can I do this myself?
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:55:30 -0800
Subject: Glowing 2,25l Diesels ?
From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)

Hello there,

I´am driving a 109 Diesel Series III (76) as a daily driver, and had 
allways probelems to fire the engine. 

1. I bought the truck 3 years ago, it has a small 64 Ah batterie in it. 
This works but I´ve had only one try to start. So I went to a shop (Feb 
94) and bougth a 88 Ah. No more probelms in this winter all running fine.

2. Then my starter motor break down. Nothing to repair, so I replaced is 
with a "new" one. (I used the Landrover 2 weeks w/o a starter. I parked 
at the top of hills, glow the engine and push the truck. Jump in and get 
the second gear. I works!) After fitting a new starter all works fine 
too.

3. I need to replace the glowplugs (old one) every year. So my idear was 
that I´will fit dieselglow sticks. OK I fit this new plugs and let the 
load resistor in place (They were parallel not in series). Now It take 6 
to 8 the time of the old one to glow the engine. 

OLD GLOWPLUGS

+12
|    Load resistor                     Old glowplug
------I	I I I-----------H  |-H |--H |--H
       I I I		H--| H-|  H-|  H--------|        
       			H    H    H    H        | ground
                        H    H    H    H        T 
			O    O    O    O
NEW Glowsticks

+12V
|    Load resistor                     Old glowplug
-----I I I I------------U----U----U----U New Glowstick
      I I I             U    U    U    U
    resitor             U    U    U    U
                        U    U    U    U  ground
			T    T    T    T

4. I think "just remove the resistor". I had done this a few weeks 
before.  This let glow it a littel bit faster (4 times the old one) Now 
my ingition switch produces fume ...  

5. This day I removed this modern glowsticks and fitted my old ones. This 
works fine. Only the switch is fumeing .... :(

What was my error ? I think don´t use modern glowsticks in such a old 
Landrover (the Lucas demon awakes ....)
Is there one who had good experience with this new glowsticks ? I bought 
it because the dealer sayed "This one are faster and don´t go faulty like 
the old ones" Is that true ? 

How many amps need the starter motor ? I´ve fitted now a 100 Ah batterie 
with 500 amps ! I upgraded the alternator to 65 amps to charge the big 
block batterie. I´ve check an replaced the ground connetion of the 
starter motor. (Now 70mm2)

But the engine don´t want to start all the time.....

My next step is to replace the starter (I think the solenoid is not OK) 
and of course the switch..  I will order a new switch tomorow.

If you have any suggestion or the same experience please write it here ?

To Tailgaters:

I only remove the food from the accelerator. This works as you pushed the 
 brake. If I´am overtaking on the motorway and somone is flashin his 
lamps or indicators not far from the end, I only kick the pedal to the 
floor. (nothing happens except -- a black stinking smoke comes out the 
exhaust) The BMW / Mercedes drivers are bite in the steering weel and 
switch the fog lamps on ..... :-)) 

ciao

Oli

>>>>  Landrover 109 DIESEL 2.25l Series III 1976 <<<
>>>>  with Hard Top and Soft Top (in Summer)     <<<email:   Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de
AMPRBBS: DG5DBV@DB0BQ.#NRW.DEU.EU
amprnos: DG5DBV@DB0NOS.ampr.org
FAX:     (+) 49 2923 7276

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 12:49:37 -0700
From: Jon Nyhus <bmc@syspac.com>
Subject: Re: RR Analyzer

At 09:30 AM 11/10/96 -0700, you wrote:
>>Has anybody in the list heard of a "Test Book Analyzer" ?   It's supposed to
>>be a computer of some sort to analyze or troubleshoot RRs - anybody has an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>dealerships. It was simpler to use but limited.
>Jim

"Test Book" as Jim pointed out is expensive.  The two systems are not
compatiable.  Each system uses a different method of handling information
(Test Book is far more complicated system than what the we had in the
older(now called) RR Classics.)  The two systems (EFI & ABS) used in the
older vehicles work independently of each other so one would have to get the
unit that they would need.  I dont know if LR sells the units.  

Regards,   Jon  

--------------------------------------------------------------
British Motor Classics, Ltd.,  
8828 N. Black Canyon Hwy #1
Phoenix,  AZ  85051  USA
602.995.2028     FAX 602.995.1909     
E-Mail  bmc@syspac.com  

British auto restoration for all marques,
Car sales & locating service, Spares sales

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:04:56 -0500
Subject: Valve seats

Jim: I'd do the seats too. I dont have any experience doing only the valves.
When I did the engine on my old SIIA a few years back I went the "No lead
head" route and I sent the head to a local machine shop. They installed the
new guides I provided and also installed new hardened seats(stellite? I dont
recall) for a few bucks more. They provided the seats which they installed,
which, as someone mentioned earlier, is common for any good machine shop.
They also did a light skim on the head to remove a slight warp, lapped the
valves to the new seats, all for about $125. At the recommendation of my
Porsche mechanic friend I left the seals off the exhaust valve stems. He said
the additional oiling would make them and the exhaust guides last longer.
Since I only put about 10K on that motor before I sold the truck I cant
verify the effectiveness of this. It did not smoke however (most vaccum being
on the inlet side of course). Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: graf_greg/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 15:16:35 -0500
Subject:  

UNSUBSCRIBE LAND-ROVER-OWNER GREG GRAF

------------------------------

From: Carl Dashman <dashmanc@haven.ios.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:43:31 EST
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

** Reply to note from Owner-LRO-Digest@playground.sun.com 11/09/96 03:56am -0800
What does it take to unsubscribe from your list????????

I have sent over a half-dozen messages to unsubscribe according to your directions  
over the last two week and am still getting the LRO-Digest.  PLEASE TAKE ME OFF  
YOUR LIST!!!!!

THANK YOU!

dashmanc@haven.ios.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:42:32 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re:Wading question

Hi all, 

After checking the front and rear axles and gearbox/ transfer box and
swivel balls,
it appears that only the swivel balls took on water--guess those seals
are worse than I thought.

On another note, why would the starter motor be at any significantly
worse risk in the situation of wading a (relatively) short distance
through a flooded road than if I were to splash through a few big
puddles? Seems like driving down a very dusty road or deep muddy road
would put it at a much higher risk.

Anyway, the only thing I've noticed is that this morning, the clutch was
a bit frozen.  Touched the starter and the truck jerked a bit but almost
immediately broke free.  Ran fine from that point on.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 21:44:58 -0800
Subject: index lro-digest
From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)

index lro-digest
help lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:30:45 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Tailgaters

>Let 'em honk-keeps me awake while i'm driving 

Best bumper sticker seen lately:

        Keep honking, I'm reloading

Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:31:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Dead Luminition?

>>Basically I have run out of spark.  More specifically, the 
   coil is sparking OK, but the spark isn't making it across 
   the rotor to the leads.  The rotor, leads and distributor 
   cap were replaced about 1500 miles ago.

Don't change out the system before you try another Rotor! Sounds like your
rotor is shorting to ground. Maybe it's cracked. If it is a multimeter won't
show that it *can* short to ground under influence of a few Kvolts. I always
keep an old rotor that was working when I retired it, for jsut such an
emergency.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
Pertronix Ignitor under the cap, Quik-a-fit under the seat!
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 19:59:36 PST

G’day all,

A quick question about galvanising.

There is a bulkhead swap in my 88’s future, a job I have been putting off
for some time now. The thought of this undertaking is not something I
have been looking forward to, partly because my Rover is a daily driver
and there hasn’t been time to pull it off the road, and partly because
the thought of this job scares the crap out of me. Just thinking about
taking apart a series III dash and getting it back together again.
YUK!!! I had to change a washer jet once. Let me tell you, that was too
much fun

Anyhow, I’ve been thinking about galvanising the new used bulkhead but
have heard this might not be the smartest move. Something about it
warping and twisting because of the heat??? I already have a galvanised
chassis and front radiator panel and thought giving the bulkhead the
same treatment would put an end (just dreaming) to any more rusting
problems.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on having the bulkhead dipped,
or the swap over in general? Have I just convinced myself this swap is
harder than it really is? Mechanical work I can handle, and enjoy, but
when it comes to electrical work and wiring harnesses I’m pretty much
lost.

Thanks in advance for any advise.

Rover and out.

Brett

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:14:22 -0500
Subject: Re: 6 Cyl Block

> I've just found out that we are keeping (on top of our other junk...or
>  rather at the bottom) a 6 cyl engine block.  I also think i found the
>  c/shaft for it (7M/Brg).  The number on the engine is roverish - 550070.
 I
>  couldn't find it in the LR catalogues I have.  I'm certain that somebody
on
>  the list can ID this block (if for LR) - for which rover, year model,
>  probably petrol, etc.

If it is the 2.6 litre six used in some LR 109s and FCs then it will have
exhaust valves in the block and intake valves in the head. Also, the top of
the block is inclined relative to the cylinders.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:03:17 -0800
From: Greg Spitz <Gspitz@concentric.net>
Subject: Re:D110 Recall 

While checking in order to purchase the 93 D110 I just drove home from Atlanta....(aptly named "Golden 
Fleece"thanks to Alex Maiolo) I was told by a Master Mechanic at Land Rover there is an open recall on them due 
to exhaust leak and the wiring harness has to be rerouted in order to avoid
FIRE!!  Has anyone done this...I will take it to the dealer as soon as I can let it go (i just got it!) to have 
this fixed and...
the only other problem is the temp gauge never goes past 1/4...it does move upon starting...tapping did no 
good..is this common to 110's or just needs replacement??

Greg Spitz
Rover Madness
95 D90 License Plate MY DFNDR
93 D110 "Golden Fleece"

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 20:46:47 PST
Subject: Re:(chassis swap)  weaving various threads into the warp and w

Mark writes

<Creatively juggle credit card payments so you can scrape together
<enough cash to purchase a new galvanized frame for your Rover.

<Call enough friends to help you do a framover in a weekend. Pay them in
<pizza and beer. Keep them sober enough to work. Keep them drunk enough
<to stay till it's done. Need the newly rebuilt machine to go to work
<monday.

Would never have thought a frame over was possible in a weekend till I
did it to my 88 two years ago.

Just as my chassis was folding in half, I came across a real steal. A
galvanised chassis already in Canada, an hour from my place, for less
than half price.

Needed the Rover on Monday, so Sat. morning at 9 am, with the help of my
good friends Dave Lowe, Larry Berti and Tom Tollefson, we striped the
beast down to a pile of parts and started putting it back together on
the new chassis. I drove it out again Sun. night at 11 pm. Total time
spent on the job was 27.5 hours and three of those Tom spent repairing a
ratty bulkhead.

I owe those guys big time.

Brett

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Tailgaters
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 21:37:02 -0500

Cool sticker seen on the back of a clapped-out Malibu wagon:

*LIFESTYLES OF THE POOR AND UNKNOWN*

cheers
Jim

----------
From:  Alexander P. Grice[SMTP:rover@pinn.net]
Sent:  Sunday, November 10, 1996 6:31 PM
Subject:  Tailgaters

>Let 'em honk-keeps me awake while i'm driving 
Best bumper sticker seen lately:

        Keep honking, I'm reloading

Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 21:48:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "M. ABERCROMBIE" <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Subject: gray sealant

Does anyone know what the gray gunk that Land Rover used to seal between the
rear tub and the seat base on series rovers is.  Is there a modern
equivalent that is easily found, and relatively inexpensive?  Thanks for any
information.

Matt Abercrombie
Belfast, Maine
1969 SWB HT

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 22:06:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Warn Winch For Sale

All;

    This is being posted for a fellow LRO without internet access ......
For Sale:
Warn  Winch model  8274
150' cable
2 new solenoids
2 extra solenoids
2 Remote control units 12' long
Warn Winch Locking kit
Price $ 600
located in upstate NY near Albany
Call Doug 518-797-5117

please deal with Doug direct
usual disclaimers apply.....

Rgds
Steve Bradke     72 Slll 88 ( for sale )
WA2GMC         68 S lla 88
                        96 Discovery 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 11:30:22 +0800
From: James Mercer <james@mips.cs.murdoch.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Dead Luminition?

Solihull@aol.com wrote:

> Don't change out the system before you try another Rotor! Sounds like your
> rotor is shorting to ground. Maybe it's cracked. If it is a multimeter won't
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> keep an old rotor that was working when I retired it, for jsut such an
> emergency.

And the winner is....

Swapped out the rotor on Saturday morning and the old girl fired right
up 
and ran...

I thought that the rotor was to simple a component to fail - but then it
is
a lucas part :)

I think that I might track myself down a full distributor and tune it up
ready to go... That way if I get stuck again I'll just do a swap and
continue on my merry way...  This little excersize has shaken my faith
in
my Lumenition system :(.

Happily Rovering on...
James.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:39:42 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Electrical Mumblings...

In the course of rewiring, getting a new ignition switch, and GMing
(alternator, that is) my Rover, I had the following thought:  Instead of
replacing the ignition switch (which was the original cause of all my
troubles) with the same part (this is the one that has both the light
switch and the key tumber in it, and costs $130US), why not replace the
ignition switch with the newer IIA switch, which only costs about $40US,
and the later light switch (also $40US), for about 2/3 the cost.  Further,
I wonder why Rover ditched this type.  Could it be because they realized
that it was a bad part?  Or was it that Lucas simply discontinued it.  In
any case, I wish I'd updated to the newer parts and spent less money.

C
'65 IIA 88" SW (on the road again after two months!!!)
'96 Disco SD
'83 Tercel 4WD SW (as if!  Back in it's rightful spot in the
driveway--where the unused car goes!)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:48:14 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: One-Tonne shackles on an 88"

Having exorcised the Deamon Joe Lucas, Prince of Darkness, from my 88" for
the time being, I must now look to the springs.  My do I ever list to port!
 One of the many pieces of advice I've recieved on this list is that all
suspension bits should be replaced whilst replacing springs.  That being
the case, I've had an eye out for suspension info in my reading of this
list, other lists, and publications.  

In this month's LROI, I noticed that the claim was made that the one-tonne
pickup has taller shackles than a standard 109 or 88.  Is this one way to
lift an 88?  If so, what are the repurcussions regarding steering geometry,
etc.  

Or is this a foolish thing to do that only an american with red neck
freinds would consider?

C
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco SD

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 23:08:55 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Re2: ECOFLOW

At 10:04 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>Live chickens are too noisy.  

>Would never hear all the clucking and squawking over the noise of the 2.25.
>I say go for the live chicken.. 

That's all fine and dandy for on the freeway, but for around town, you would
definitely hear the chicken at every stop light!  How would you ever pick up
babes?  Better a dead chicken, then you can surprise the girls with the
gourmet meal of cajun blackened chicken later on.  Or, add a little vinegar
and lettuce for a nice chicken salad with oil and vinegar...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 23:08:20 -0800
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: highway speed

At 08:12 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Man I can't believe some of your responces...  Bright lights, slamming on
>brakes... Do you really need to cause a accident?  In Colorado, typically if

Perhaps in Colorado, people pull over if they're going slow in the fast
lane, but my response was based on either a) being in the right or second to
right lane of a 4-5 lane highway with the putz in question tailgating me
because the rest of the traffic on the left is only passing me at 70-75
instead of the 90-100 he wants to do, or b) in the case of the previously
mentioned situation with my van & the corvette, being in the midst of a
major interchange, and only doing about 80mph.

You see, in California, the idiots breed like rabbits, and never take
driving lessons.  They have no natural enemies, so the only way to prevent
serious overpopulation is for them to kill themselves off.  In the past,
this was often done by voluntarily driving badly until an unmovable object
(such as freeway supports, buildings, etc.) was encountered, but lately,
various members of the idiot population have taken to increase population
control through the use of firearms (both on and off the freeways.)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: highway speed
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 9:15:58 GMT

> > headache faster than a screaming overdrive.  What is the usuall method of
> > disposal, utilizing all aspects of land-rover charm and respect?
> My technique is to ease *off* the accelerator!

I tried this yesterday on the M1, but it didn't work.

I even had a parked tailgater - was cleaning my windscreen, and a new-look
Fiesta decided to kiss my NATO tow-hitch. Must have been very gentle, because
I didn't notice until I tried to clean the safari door...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: hydraulic fluid
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 11:21:28 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Allan Smith[SMTP:smitha@candw.lc] wrote:
Are ordinary DOT3 & DOT4 brake fluids  "mineral" (as opposed to silicone) 
or is this a completely different type of fluid?  

Hydraulic fluid:
DOT3 & DOT4 are for hydraulic brakes.
Dextron II are for hydraulic motors, winches, steering and that kind of stuff.
DOT5 are for brakes as well, but normaly based on silicone.

best regards

Bent Boehlers

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBCFC2.7CC1C7A0

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 12:22:56 +0000
Subject:  Re: highway speed

>Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 16:31:31 +0000
>>Like the sticker says "Your skid stops here!" so why worry?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Because of all the confounded paperwork involved if the clot
>hits you!!

And having a car pressure-welded to your rear crossmember 
significantly reduces your chances of stopping before whatever caused 
you to brake.

------------------------------

From: Alan Jardine <ALAN@atd.co.uk>
Date:          Mon, 11 Nov 1996 10:41:58 +0
Subject:       Re: One-Tonne shackles on an 88"

> Date sent:      Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:48:14 -0800
> Send reply to:  Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> From:           "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
> Subject:        One-Tonne shackles on an 88"

> Having exorcised the Deamon Joe Lucas, Prince of Darkness, from my 88" for
> the time being, I must now look to the springs.  My do I ever list to port!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> etc.  
> Or is this a foolish thing to do that only an american with red neck
> freinds would consider?

Not recomended.  For a start you will need longer prop-shafts,  these 
will have to be specially made and balanced.  Even then the new front  
prop-shaft will foul the chassis, meaning big chassis mods.  Not to 
mention longer shocks.

Even if you put it together you will end up with an unstable and 
potentially dangerous vehicle.  Raising it will also raise the centre 
of gravity giving it a propensity to roll on fast(ish) tight corners. 
The one ton coped with this because it was longer and heavier with 
stiffer springs.

My advice, don't do it it you want to keep the vehicle on the road.

Alan Jardine,  ATD.

> C
> '65 IIA 88" SW
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> '65 IIA 88" SW
> '96 Disco SD

------------------------------

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